Heat treating O1 Tool steel
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Heat treating O1 Tool steel and some simple talk about heat treating for knives. This is my second channel, my main channel is OUTDOORS55. Ill be up loading odds and ends over hear. Stuff I cant really turn into a full video. As of now it will be more of the nitty gritty of knife making. Ill be making these when I have the time, but they should be regular.
#knifemaking #heattreating #o1toolsteel #knife
About
This is a second odds and ends channel for my main channel outdoors55. Im a knife maker and youtuber out of southern Pennsylvania. For now the content will be seconds from the main knife making channel, but that may change in the future. Thanks for watching!
The 400F thing is called a marquench or martemper, it doesnt do anything for hardness but it does bring you past the nose but stops before it turns back into martensite for the most part. Its when it chnages to martensite that you get the 2% expansion so doing it slow is good for reducing cracking and warping, you can bend it before it sets. The unexpected thing is that you easily get 2x toughness even after tempering from many steels this way by reducing the internal stresses.
Anyone thats worth their salt that does traditional water quenching is an expert at pulling the knife before you get into the martensite region below 500f where water cools significantly faster than oil.
Years I've subscribed, never knew about your "secret channel"!
Have you ever heat treatef o1 with a less advanced set up? Mini forge ( your design or similar) and quenching in canola or peanut oil? Would this even be worth a try?
Paint cans are larger than a gallon to allow for color adding to change the color of the base paint
I havent seen your other channel but found this highly informative.
Have you considered using a metal mud tray for sheetrock mudding? It could be used to submerge the entire knife.
Great video Alex...enjoyed it as much as the ones on your main channel!
use metal ammo box for a quench tank.
Get a aluminum fence post. Cap the bottom. The thinner the better. You can use that oil to get much longer blades quenched with the same quantity of oil.
Great video and information as I'm also using O1 steel and Im a beginner I found this helpful. I like this style of video as well as your other channel so keep it going !!
Cheap Quench Well: I went to the scrap yard and had them cut the top of an old fire extinguisher (they also had scuba tanks but those are much heavier). Filed the sharp edge on top, done and done. They sold it to me for one dollar.
This kind of video is great. For me,it is super helpfull with informative videoes about heattreatment. I will get my own evenheat oven in 2-3 weeks, so this tutorial is very helpfull for a beginner. Thank you:-)
Try using a piece of 4" PVC pipe on end with one end capped. Make it is deep as you like.
You can probably use a steel fence post for quenching.
I only just came across this other channel, Alex. I subscribe to your main channel.
I always heat a second bar and quench it to heat my oil and then quench my blades
I like the format. You always convey some good info regardless of style. Keep it up. I need to get on making some vids beyond my Instagram pics.
I’ve subscribed!
Love this style! I'd be interested to see the loveless bolts over here during a build just to see a bit more of the process.
I'll probably be doing a video on them on the outdoors55 channel. They are great. Very easy to use.
I got Parks 50 on Amazon for $45. a gallon.
You may have learned this already since this video was posted, but you were speaking of blades warping when you quench and something l learned awhile back is if you get a compass (I use my phone) and find North and turn your quench tank or hold your knife to where either the spine or tip is facing north, all depends on your quench tank, it will help prevent your knife from warping. I didn’t believe it until I tried it and seeing as the tip of a knife coming out of the oven or forge wants to pull towards the magnetic field of north like a compass when it cools it only makes since to situate your knife like the needle of a compass. You will get a lot less warping if you take this extra step, I know it’s helped me. I hope this little rid bit of info helps you or anyone else out there having issues with blades warping.
Put your oil in a metal ammo box, did you grind your first bevel
Before heat treatment?
Thanks for your continued sharing while on the Knife making journey. Have you considered using anti scale ATP 641, to reduce carbon loss during heat treat.
Be careful moving your work piece left/right in cooling fluid. You're introducing a substantial cooling disparity on each side of the blade. Generally, you want to only move a work piece along it's longer axis to minimize warping. If you want to test this phenomenon, take a thin piece of steel and spin it around your cooling oil in one direction then measure it's warp. It will warp towards the motion of the stir in the oil because that side will cool first, and quicker. Of course that's just to demonstrate a worse case scenario, but it proves the point. Sometimes it's minimal. Sometimes it isn't. For knives, it doesnt matter that much, as they are not precision surfaces, but it's a good piece of knowledge depending on your application. I do precision work down to the micron scale, and how the tool is hardened (even something as mundane as how it's being introduced to cooling fluid) has very measurable effects and can the difference between an in-tolerance shaft, and trash.
There was no left to right movement. It may look like it but there was not. Thanks
I like both formats. As long it doesn't get to fancy and you keep both feet on the ground ;-) I have one question. The more holes all you guys drill in the tang as to give the epoxy a better grip. You're even rounding the the edges of the holes, I guess you're doing just the opposite. Because you're reducing the bonding surface area. And epoxy without any carbon or handle material is pretty brittle. I can understand you would do it because of the balance of the knife. All the best from Denmark. I did learn a lot from watching your videos :-) Thanks !!
Yes yes you should do short little on edited videos on this channel and then longer videos on outdoors 55 but this would be really good for little one minute videos
Reads data sheet then says f it I’ll do what I want
Some advice on heat treatment in fire place
American temperature is confusing.
Amazon - Parks AAA Quench Oil 1 Gallon = $44.90
Why soak it for so long, what happens if you don’t soak it but for 5-10mins?
do you do any type of cooling blade down in between these 2x2h cycles?
Do you let the knife cool to room temp after 1st tempering cycle, before the 2nd?
pretty good stuff. But unlike you, i would definitely use the heat treatment temperatures they give you for your type of steel. In knife applications, its not that critical apparently, but if you heat treat gun parts, its a whole different story.
I heat oil to 130 f..........never issues.
Its like "The Where's Waldo" channel
Lol 😂
Uh um uh um uh um uh um uh um
Send me an email, you can find it on my "About" page from my TH-cam Home Screen. Ill have you on my main channel and you can show all 200,000 people how well spoken you are, since you dont have any of your own videos. Look forward to hearing from you. 👍
@@OUTDOORS55
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