Cherry recently did retool to return to smoother sliders, to prevent in particular their linear switches from feeling scratchy. As far as why they haven’t actually innovated in any way, I would imagine it’s a product of the thinking that kept them going all these years when so many other keyboard and switch makers fell off. They survived long enough to dominate the mechanical keyboard resurgence through conservative business practices, focusing their products on reliable, high-margin markets. Companies like Gateron, Outemu and Kailh/Kaihua have succeeded in gaining momentum in the lower-end consumer markets recently, but beyond that, they’ve mostly gained traction among keyboard enthusiasts, which are a much smaller market than gamers are. Corsair and Cooler Master are incredibly valuable partners, and by all accounts, Cherry is doing a lot to keep them happy. That’s where their efforts are focused, because those are their actual customers. We’re rounding errors. The moment you see Corsair go the way of Logitech and Razer, making their own switches, or jump ship to Gateron or Kailh is when I’d expect to see Cherry really start innovating again.
Cannot stress how informative and detailed your videos are. Honestly i could listen to you speak for hours about your knowledge of switches and keyboards. Especially your comments about how to improve the switches. love it!
My guess is that once they actually managed to copy Cherry's design, some managed to find out imperfections and problems with it, then go on to innovate upon it.
@@JackOfHarts96 Romer G also feels a lot like MX, only the shape and sound seem to be considerably different. I'd describe my Romer G "tactiles" as Cherry Speed Browns with o rings.
Just ordered a board with these switches and I am so excited because it is my first mechanical keyboard too! Thanks for all the vids Thomas, helped a newbie like me make a informed purchase instead of just getting Cherry Blues like I would have before discovering this channel.
Based on your Kailh switch overview a while back, I bought 120 Gold Kailh switches on Massdrop. I'm very anxious to put them in an Ergodox Infinity that I also got on Massdrop. However, simply pressing these switches uninstalled, it's glaringly obvious that they are superior to Cherry, Gateron, and the other clones in every way possible. It seems like most of the new switches developed in the last decade or so were overwhelmingly crap, so kudos to Kailh for innovating and making great switches!
Wow, surprised you're back so fast after returning from holiday! Great in-depth look at these switches. I was going to wait for this video to pull the trigger on BOX Whites, but I ended up being too impatient and just decided to try them out blindly. And I'm really satisfied with them, the sound and feel is beyond any other MX switch I've tried before. I'd recommend these to anyone looking for the best clicky switch. One thing I have to disagree on is the actuation. All of my BOX Whites consistently actuate slightly after the click. I believe it depends on the way you press the switch though, the rubber pusher isn't exactly consistent.
on a slow press down will the whites actuate before click? i like the switch in my switch tester, but an actuation before click would drive me insane :/
hey, I've heard they've fixed the actuation in newer versions. In BOX Jade for sure. Is this true for whites? Coz I think I'll buy them, Zealios didnt really impress me
These definitely sound better than blues. I have the Havit keyboard with Kailh's low profile clicky switches (blue instead of white for some reason). They do click before they actuate, and it bothers me. I'd rather have actuation slightly before because sometimes I hear the click thinking I've pressed the key and release it, but there's no output. It's weird that the full size version is the opposite and clicks after actuation (which I would prefer).
Makes me want to try more to know more what I am talking about. Only tried those out of testing boards. And the only three keyboards I have is a shitty ajaz keyboard with browns I hated so much it forced me to go deeper and ended here. The unicomp I got after and my Model F I got last week! But all the kailh box with clickbars were the big surprise I liked out of my testing boards
For whatever reason, one of the most attractive audio qualities of a keyboard (to me) are when the sound of both strokes are similar. I can't really say why, but the pin spring keyswitches are just fascinating - which is definitely something since I don't even like clicky switches at all. So yeah, with your example of these switches equipped with some thick, rounded keycaps made me want to sell all my belongings to be able to afford buying these and a set of appropriate keycaps haha. But I think overall that'd be an infatuation and I'd end up going back to the mesmerizing _thock_ of the RC-930 I recently purchased.
I got these in a hotswap keyboard from Drop. I intended to swap them for BOX Jades or BOX Royals immediately, but the switches have been out of stock. And, I was blown away by how good these are. They are similar to MX Browns in tactility magnitude. They are also quieter than I expected. As in the video, they are very satisfying.
Wow. Have been scouring the internet for reviews on different clicky switches. This is the first videos that talks about the actuation before the click, which is insane because that sounds like a super important piece of information reviewers would mention.
I gonna recieve a keyboard a week from now, it has kailh box white switches. I'm going to try to make them actuate before clicking but I'm pretty sure it will be difficult just by looking at the force graph.
@@fireflameft2964 Nice! Let me know how it goes (if you can). I bought around 100 Kailh Pink switches for my upcoming board. Unfortunately, the board has been delayed and I haven't really been able to test the Pinks quite yet and still don't know whether I should perform a spring swap or not.
@@TeamOT If I don't forget I will inform you about how it went haha. I also ordered some Kailh Speed Bronzes wich are very similar and are known to actuate before the click, let's see how it goes. I've heard about the pinks but I don't know anything about them.
@@TeamOT so it arrived today, I can consistently actuate the bronzes before the click but in a real scenario it doesn't bother me at all because I mainly play games, but I understand why typists hate the switch. About box whites they actuate exactly at the click, I managed to actuate some switches before the click but it's sooo hard to pull off like you have to apply the perfect amount of pressure when the stem meets the click bar without going through and this only happens in some switches because in others it's straight up impossible. So there is some very small deviation between switches I guess but that's to be expected IMO. I also changed keycaps two times already and the ones I put on and had to remove because I didnt like them were REALLY tight so I had to apply some force so that might have messed up the switches. But all in all I would say yes you can make them actuate before the click if you really reaaaally try in some switches but in real usage it's straight up impossible and I doubt someone notices the 0.1 mm deviation in some switches lol. I also found a single switch that doesnt actuate after clicking so it might be a defective one. Overall I'm very please with these switches, they feel and sound nice and feel very stable compared to the gateron browns I was using until now on a CK550
@@fireflameft2964 thanks dude! That helps a lot. My board is still far from here (lol), but I'll try it on a macropad I just got. One question about the bronzes: do you feel like the switch is 'floaty' between the click and the bottom out? Like when I'm playing first person shooters/MMOS with Cherry Blues for example, I sometimes don't fully release a key (from the wasd cluster) before actuating again. In MMOs, I do this to stutter step to find ressources. One thing I didn't like about the MX Blues was that the switch always felt much mushier between the click and the bottom out (as compared to the feeling before the click). I've never owned any other clickys, so I don't know if this is normal or I'm just asking for sometime uber specific. That's just what I thought people meant when they said a key was mushy. Also, for your non actuating switch, this happened to me once: I bent the pin so perfectly during insertion (kek) that it looked like I had snapped it. I replaced the switch and set the faulty one aside only to realize a couple of days later that the pin had bent on itself AND folded itself so perfectly that the pin looked like a single sheet of metal instead of a bent/snapped pin. Switch worked great on the next board. Hopefully this will save one switch for you hahaha.
I love this guy's videos but I also love his voice and his profanity mixed with his voice and accent and just they way he presents himself is just great good work man
Thank you for this review. It was mind blowing to hear the difference in sound when using different keycaps (06:50). That was really informative - I'll have to try double-shot ABS keycaps in the near future. Awesome review as always.
It took nearly a year after you reviewed them, but I finally got my hands on these switches through the Motospeed CK89, one of the first and, to my knowledge, still very few pre-assembled Box White keyboards with a full-size layout. Notable for me is how Kaihua have by now lowered the actuation point below the tactile bump and click (or maybe moved the bump and click above the actuation?). But the somewhat large the distance between tactility and actuation now makes it so that it's possible for a very light tap to not register despite getting past the tactile bump and click. It's actually still a rather subtle issue, enough that most people will probably never encounter this, or at least only very infrequently, but I can imagine this could throw off some very light-fingered touch typists. As innovative as they are, and I appreciate it greatly, Kaihua probably still has a ways to go in their precision spec manufacturing and testing procedure.
Oh boy. I have to tell you about the MK Typist (over at mechanical keyboards dot com or amazon also seems to carry them)... Not only does it have box white switches, but it has doubleshot PBT caps, usb-c, programming dipswitches, and insane build quality. It LOOKS kinda plain in pics but in person you can see the quality. excellent board (dude I have TWO!). I THINK it's actually a ducky one with special switches, I'm not 100 on that though.
@@captainBoimler I was aware of the MK Typist as one of the few other pre-built boards with Box Whites. I actually really wanted one, but it's difficult to get for me where I live. My CK89 cost no shipping since I'm close to China, and it cost me just US$70. The build quality is decent, with a nicely anodized aluminum backplate, but not as heavy or solid as the MK Typist. I know because I also own a first generation Ducky One, the exact same chassis used on the MK Typist (yes, you're right that it was OEM'd by Ducky but with different switches. I recognized that it has the same body shell the moment I saw the pictures, and I looked it up to confirm). Duckies are some of the best built modern keyboards out there, so I'd have been happy to get my Box Whites on one. Unfortunately, it just isn't very accessible for me.
Based on this video, I would love to see you review their Box Jades. That seems to be a favorite within the community, over box whites, and I would love to see you compare the two. :)
I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on the v2 version of these switches, I tried one of them from a sampler on a Keychron k10 pro and they sound lower pitched and they were the switches I ended up buying. This is sort of the first time I got switch samplers since last time I bought a keyboard there weren't any hot swappable choices for my layout of choice (Italian ISO) and went with a cherry brown. I dunno if it was my speakers or youtube but especially when I put the sample switches in the k10 pro (PBT keycaps) the difference between cherry clicky switches and the kailh ones was much more pronounced than I expected, the rattling of cherry blues and greens really doesn't come out in youtube videos so it was a bit of a shock hearing it IRL, I haven't bothered trying the gateron clickies (of which there were really few in the sampler, most were either linear or brown-style tactile) since they sounded distincly MX-like and could see the click-jacket under the transparent cases. I really liked how clickbar switches sound, even the higher pitched ones like the box summer were really nicer than cherries. I couldn't quite verify the issue with the actuation point in the v1 switch, I think I might have managed with that another one of the other switches in the sampler once but I was trying to do it on purpose and seemed always on the cusp of the tactile bump. Perhaps they corrected or compensated for the issue since then?
wouldn't you rather have an actuation very slightly before the click? then the click guarantees the switch actuated. if it is the other way, it would be possible to release after the click with no actuation.
its very hard to make the click without actuating because the tactility means higher force at the click point, which drives the press past actuation. On the other hand, having it before the actuation would feel weird because you can actuate without making sound, making the keyfeel inconsistent
interesting, in the click-ml the switch actuates clearly after the click, so that sometimes, if you go 'light', only the click is produced with no actuation (this with an havit 390-something, sorry don't rememeber exactly the name of the keyboard)
I honestly prefer the sound of the Kailh BOX Whites with Cherry's thin PBT keycaps against any of the other ones. It's honestly right where it needs to be for me, not too high-piched but not too thocky either
buckling springs should still be a bit heavier with a 70-75g actuation compared to box pale blues 60g. although buckling springs will have a lighter bottom out with less cushion
Kailh offered to send me some samples of these awhile ago but wanted me to pay for shipping which I refused to do for a review sample. I'm happy I got to see them in action on your channel and see what they are like in actual usage. After watching the video I think my thoughts would have lined up quite similarly to yours, they have some improvements over MX Blues but still need some work to truly be a step forward.
I wonder why they didn't position the click-bar stop on the stem/plunger assembly instead of the switch body. I believe that would improve the tactility of the switch. Maintain the stop on the body to act as a maximum positive-y travel stop for click bar.
The The IP number indication Code is as follows: First digit: Solid particle protection. (Single numeral: 0-6, 6 being the highest rating) Second digit: Liquid ingress protection (Single numeral: 0-9, 9 being the highest rating) Some times there is a 3rd number: Third digit: Mechanical impact resistance (Single numeral: 0-9, 9 being the highest rating) So IP56 is that bad at all.
About 6:20 you can tell that the MX is worn in and is not a freshy, I have been building keyboards forever now and I know my clicks..... After saying that, I wanted to say I chose to build in the last year 80% or so of the keyboards with Kailh Box switches, no longer a contest between the 2! I say this because the cherry MX blues have been a favorite since forever ago, but after testing the box switches and the fact that the MX's start to lose clickyness and response time after about 4 to 5 months, my original box whites from a year ago are still going strong! Only other switch at this point that I am absolutely in love with is Razer purples!
Dude, what have you done to your soldering tip x) Two Tips to extend the lifetime: Only use one kind of solder, I personally still use lead-based and swear by its ease of use and longevity, but you may want to use lead-free. Whatever you choose, never change as to not stress the tip with an unpredictable alloy. Always (!) clean your tip every time you pick up or place down the iron. I like brass shavings much more than the wet sponge cleaner. But, all that said: Old Cherry G80-3000 boards are def crap. I found an FR2 board in my early 90s g80-3000 which means the PCB is essentially made from cardboard. Pretty much everything uses FR4 instead now which is fiber glass. Unlike cardboard it doesn't take as much moisture over the years and remains fairly serviceable.
I just have the iron, not an expensive soldering station. I try to keep the tip clean, but after desoldering and soldering thousands of switches.... xD
I see, I started out with one of those too ^^ There are some clones of the Hakko 936 floating around for under 20€ that are ok, if you're in the market for a cheap, but usable station ;) They are much superior to anything that just plugs straight into the wall and they can take genuine Hakko tips which makes them stand out in the cheap station market. Look for Yihua or Aoyue 936. The original tips will be expensive. For desoldering switches an off-brand chisel tip should do just fine tho, even for thousands of switches :D
im a total noob to soldering, and dont need it actually, just did some diy simple projects. But you say always clean the tip? I actually put some solder on it when i let it cool off. For one, i'd assume it keeps it better in shape protectin it from oxidation wand whatnot. And secondly, i know when its hot enough once i start it up again
Yes, there should always be some clean solder on the tip. By cleaning I mean you should put some fresh solder on the hot tip, and then rub it on the sponge or in brass shavings to take of any dirt. After that you should be left with a shiny coating. I don't know whether it is good or bad or neither to have a blob instead of a thin coating tbh. I can see your point, but I feel like a blob could break of easily when it cools, like a cold solder joint on a component leg.
I’d honestly give my right arm for those classic Win key caps. For some reason they are difficult to find, reproductions often don’t emulate the colour scheme or the orientation quite correctly and period correct ones are just impossible to find! Them paired up with some tai-Halo cubic for the rest of the keys would be lovely!
I tested your claim of the actuation point being before the click by connecting a switch to a multimeter in continuity mode. For my single switch at least the actuation point is consistently after the click, not before. I can make it click, hold the position, and the multimeter will not detect continuity until I press the switch further down. I realize that this video is a few months old so I guess it is possible that they have changed them since it was made.
Digging the box format. It feels slightly less wobbly. That said, I went for a build with Outemu's, specifically the green (lime) ones. 80 grams of finger excersizing goodness. Nobody wants to even type on my keyboard, which suits me just fine :)
Will you be reviewing the newer thick clicks by kailh? They are pretty much the same design, except with a thicker clickbar that some people are saying are some of the most tactile switches - comparing them to bke topre even
IP56 is protected from "Strong stream of water from any direction". While you can't submerge your keyboard it still might protect from accidental spills.
Alright I tried pale blues AND. TBH, I highly recommend pale blues for clicky lovers but unfortunately, being spoiled by some really good tactile switches like U4T, I don't like clickies anymore. I think I'll try on last attempt with box whites and it's supposed to be a lighter version of pale blue.
What is the difference between the ABS Doubleshot letter keys and the compose thicker buttons? I'm not familiar with the term you used. Are those thicker bottom row keys only available on vintage boards or can I find those for a build? Also, what profile is this particular keyboard?
What are those keycaps? Please tell me I love them and the CHERRY G80-3000 so much. The retro look really is so nice. reminds me of my model m. I need those keycaps for my board.
Where can I get some of those epic white-on-black Cherry doubleshots? I thought the usual black-on-"off-white" looked great, but those black ones just look supreme.
If I had an ISO board, I'd try a little harder to find them. Unfortunately, all of my boards are ANSI and I can't imagine how difficult it'd be to find a Cherry board in ANSI that had those keycaps.
Very enjoyable review. Hope you're feeling better (Vitamin D). Wouldn't tactility be improved if the strike occurred against the stem instead of the housing? How much of the sound had to do with thickness vs type of plastic? Is ABS softer and therefore lower in pitch?
These switches are really awesome, honestly better than the clicky switches from cherry mx. Didn't try the navy blue's yet, would you take these over the blues or the other way around ?
Are you absolutely certain that the Box Whites activate before the click? I have the Box Pale Blues (which should be the same aside from spring weight), and from my testing I always get the click first then activation with a slow keypress. From what I gather on the message boards, it seems like most people agree that activation is after the click on these Box click-bar switches. I know the Bronze switches activated before the click, but it does not seem that the Box click-bars do. www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/6xxsuh/the_difference_between_kailh_bronze_and_kailh_box/
would you say it makes the key more sturdy like an alps feel over mx? sturdy as in, no wobble, you can press down on the edges of the key without it binding...is it closer to alps than mx in that regard?
Love BOX switches. I have a board with BOX blacks and one with whites and I'm building another one with the BOX whites right now. Only thing I've noticed is that the whites seem to have some minor inconsistencies in the click bar in that the click is muffled or doesn't double click sometimes. I'd say order a few extra to cover for bad switches and you should be good though
I thought the same but in some instances he actuates without wanting to. He'll push down a bit on the key in games and fully click it to enable the action. Doing that is hard when the actuation is before the click.
@@nerdyneedsalife8315 I get that argument but you could also make the counter argument that if you use the click of the switch as a cue for when actuation happens, actuation before the click could cause you to actuate without registering a click, think you missed, and then go back and hit the key again for two actual presses. I agree that neither are perfect. I just don't see how one if objectively bad while the other isn't.
@@thechemtrailkid oh I agree, I thought the same as you, if the click is slightly after actuation, you know you already clicked it. I have a Model F so I don't have to worry about mismatch of click and actuation
I have an old Leopold FC200RT and planning to desolder the mx shits and put in either zeliostotles or Kailh's Box switches, which one is the cheaper option? also where can i find Thick Doubleshot keycaps? and which ones do people prefer?
I have a question for the chads: Does exist the switch like this, but with a better tactile bump? Because the crispy sound of Kailh box whites is amazing!
You should check out Kailh's new Box Navy switches some people are saying they are possibly the most tactile mx style switch and the click on those sound amazing
And we've been promised a speed variant of the navy aswell. Speed pinks/bronze/copper(whichever the clicky one was) for some reason do it better for me than just box whites. Dunno why.
How do you think bronzes compare to box whites? I'd like to get click bar switches for my next build, but box whites don't have led mounting holes in them.
Jesse Särkkinen There’s one very big difference between the Speed Bronzes and the BOX Whites - actuation. Speed Bronze switches actually actuate right *before* the click bar, which has thrown off some typists. If you can handle that and look past it, then the Speed Bronze feel identical to the BOX White.
As always great video, and i had a nice little score today of a new with the plastic film still on HP keyboard for $1 US at a local church ran thrift store, and yes while not mechanical it's a cheap, but usable keyboard I can use at work, and not have to worry about someone trying to steal like one of my Cherry, G84 or Logitech wireless keyboards I would end up locking in my desk drawer at the end of the day lol!
Hey Thomas, how do you feel about how these stack up against Matias switches in terms of key feel and sound? Basically I'd love to hear your thoughts on the best widely available modern clicky tactile switch.
Somehow MX Blues just feel a bit more tactile to me. I'm not sure why that is. These BOX switches are great though. I just wish these and the tactile browns were more tactile somehow.
your videos are fantastic after watching them i am seriously thinking about switching my keyboard quick question if i may which one do you think is better Zealiostotles or kailh white box switch?
The way that you type is interesting. I can tell with the way you are angled and moving back and forth it seems to be for an ergonomic reason. What I"m curious is it a habit you developed personally or some known style I am unaware of?
It's just the way I type. I can type without looking, but I didn't learn to do it the approved, official way. I just type in whatever way is most comfortable for me :) .
I used 45grams springs on mx blues and I totally prefer them, because they feel more tactile. I'm planning to do exactly the same with the kailh as well and hope I prefer them over the MX blues. How do the white boxes compare to ALPs/Matias and the Gatistole swithes?
Btw, I'm not sure the springs are completely compatible. I think they have a shorter diameter on the Kailhs. White boxes feel quite different from gatistotles and Alps, definitely less tactile than either.
The spring shouldn't affect tactility on an mx, it's pretty much all in the bump you have to overcome. I don't have blues on hand, but putting a lighter spring in a gat green doesn't seem to make it more tactile imho. Maybe the tactile bump is a bit more noticeable, as you don't apply as much force to go past it, but it doesn't seem to increase in magnitude. This is based on couple minutes with one switch, no idea how it'd feel with a whole keyboard tbh.
The tactility doesn't change, but because you apply less force it makes it FEEL more tactile. For example if you have 500 grams springs, the 10gram difference cause from the bump is negligible and you won't feel a thing. However if you have 20 grams spring, the tactile bump will be VERY noticeable. I've tried the 45g on a whole board instead of the stock 55g and I totally prefer it. The stock MX blue feels dead compared to the lighter one (in terms of tactiliy), or at least for my fingers. However at 45g the feel less premium, so I'm looking for a more tactile clicky switch at around 55g.
Compared to Gatistotles they feel a bit less tactile but I prefer the clickbar vs the jacket, though I do not have a full keyboard with Gatistotles, just one in a tester. I can compare Pale Blues (heavier version of the BOX whites) and the MX Blues. Pale blues have a more distinct and sharp click, the sound is also less plastic-y. Tactility wise they feel more tactile than MX Blues and are also smoother (haven't tried lubing either tho). I'd say that BOX Pale blues are better in everything compared to MX Blues.
I love how nearly every Cherry MX "clone" is better than the original. Makes you wonder why Cherry doesn't make a new and better switch.
Socky Noob Laziness they bank on ignorance
They've made new switches for corsair.
Brandon Key Those are just slightly modified Reds.
Cherry recently did retool to return to smoother sliders, to prevent in particular their linear switches from feeling scratchy. As far as why they haven’t actually innovated in any way, I would imagine it’s a product of the thinking that kept them going all these years when so many other keyboard and switch makers fell off. They survived long enough to dominate the mechanical keyboard resurgence through conservative business practices, focusing their products on reliable, high-margin markets. Companies like Gateron, Outemu and Kailh/Kaihua have succeeded in gaining momentum in the lower-end consumer markets recently, but beyond that, they’ve mostly gained traction among keyboard enthusiasts, which are a much smaller market than gamers are. Corsair and Cooler Master are incredibly valuable partners, and by all accounts, Cherry is doing a lot to keep them happy. That’s where their efforts are focused, because those are their actual customers. We’re rounding errors. The moment you see Corsair go the way of Logitech and Razer, making their own switches, or jump ship to Gateron or Kailh is when I’d expect to see Cherry really start innovating again.
Brandon Key i wouldnt call mushy reds a new switch lmao
Cannot stress how informative and detailed your videos are. Honestly i could listen to you speak for hours about your knowledge of switches and keyboards. Especially your comments about how to improve the switches. love it!
Thank you :) .
Kinda funny. Everyone waited for the patent to run out. Now they're building their own mechanism anyway
BOX switches are still considered an MX-like design anyway, so I'm not sure whether or not they would still violate Cherry's patents.
My guess is that once they actually managed to copy Cherry's design, some managed to find out imperfections and problems with it, then go on to innovate upon it.
Are you sure? I'd have though they had more in common with Omron switches instead.
The old Omron Alps-like switches or Romer-G?
@@JackOfHarts96 Romer G also feels a lot like MX, only the shape and sound seem to be considerably different. I'd describe my Romer G "tactiles" as Cherry Speed Browns with o rings.
nice review，hope you feel better btw
@Barry Manilowa they have alwasy been tbf
Getting Anne pro 2 with box whites in a few
Just ordered a board with these switches and I am so excited because it is my first mechanical keyboard too!
Thanks for all the vids Thomas, helped a newbie like me make a informed purchase instead of just getting Cherry Blues like I would have before discovering this channel.
I come back to these videos to hear
50% switches
50% voice
It's amazing how the quality of keycaps changes the acoustics
*density
Can I marry your voice?
simp bass boosted his mic lol
@@Snusblues Do that and tell me if it sounds the same
@@Cobalt985 it does sound the same
Filthy weeb #SBG can I marry your voice too
@@Snusblues not only
Based on your Kailh switch overview a while back, I bought 120 Gold Kailh switches on Massdrop. I'm very anxious to put them in an Ergodox Infinity that I also got on Massdrop. However, simply pressing these switches uninstalled, it's glaringly obvious that they are superior to Cherry, Gateron, and the other clones in every way possible. It seems like most of the new switches developed in the last decade or so were overwhelmingly crap, so kudos to Kailh for innovating and making great switches!
Wow, surprised you're back so fast after returning from holiday! Great in-depth look at these switches. I was going to wait for this video to pull the trigger on BOX Whites, but I ended up being too impatient and just decided to try them out blindly. And I'm really satisfied with them, the sound and feel is beyond any other MX switch I've tried before. I'd recommend these to anyone looking for the best clicky switch.
One thing I have to disagree on is the actuation. All of my BOX Whites consistently actuate slightly after the click. I believe it depends on the way you press the switch though, the rubber pusher isn't exactly consistent.
I've just built an Ergodox with BOX Pale Blues (heavier version of BOX Whites) and they're a fantastic swtich in my opinion!
on a slow press down will the whites actuate before click?
i like the switch in my switch tester, but an actuation before click would drive me insane :/
hey, I've heard they've fixed the actuation in newer versions. In BOX Jade for sure. Is this true for whites?
Coz I think I'll buy them, Zealios didnt really impress me
These definitely sound better than blues. I have the Havit keyboard with Kailh's low profile clicky switches (blue instead of white for some reason). They do click before they actuate, and it bothers me. I'd rather have actuation slightly before because sometimes I hear the click thinking I've pressed the key and release it, but there's no output. It's weird that the full size version is the opposite and clicks after actuation (which I would prefer).
Makes me want to try more to know more what I am talking about. Only tried those out of testing boards. And the only three keyboards I have is a shitty ajaz keyboard with browns I hated so much it forced me to go deeper and ended here. The unicomp I got after and my Model F I got last week! But all the kailh box with clickbars were the big surprise I liked out of my testing boards
I was looking for a switch review and I got mentally flashbanged with the deepest sultry smooth voice i've ever heard
8:56 The last space bar press was done with your thumb...
he's evolving
Your videos convinced me to build a keyboard with these switches. I'll never touch MX Blue ever again. Thanks, Chyro!
For whatever reason, one of the most attractive audio qualities of a keyboard (to me) are when the sound of both strokes are similar. I can't really say why, but the pin spring keyswitches are just fascinating - which is definitely something since I don't even like clicky switches at all. So yeah, with your example of these switches equipped with some thick, rounded keycaps made me want to sell all my belongings to be able to afford buying these and a set of appropriate keycaps haha. But I think overall that'd be an infatuation and I'd end up going back to the mesmerizing _thock_ of the RC-930 I recently purchased.
I got these in a hotswap keyboard from Drop. I intended to swap them for BOX Jades or BOX Royals immediately, but the switches have been out of stock. And, I was blown away by how good these are. They are similar to MX Browns in tactility magnitude. They are also quieter than I expected. As in the video, they are very satisfying.
Wow. Have been scouring the internet for reviews on different clicky switches. This is the first videos that talks about the actuation before the click, which is insane because that sounds like a super important piece of information reviewers would mention.
I gonna recieve a keyboard a week from now, it has kailh box white switches. I'm going to try to make them actuate before clicking but I'm pretty sure it will be difficult just by looking at the force graph.
@@fireflameft2964 Nice! Let me know how it goes (if you can). I bought around 100 Kailh Pink switches for my upcoming board. Unfortunately, the board has been delayed and I haven't really been able to test the Pinks quite yet and still don't know whether I should perform a spring swap or not.
@@TeamOT If I don't forget I will inform you about how it went haha. I also ordered some Kailh Speed Bronzes wich are very similar and are known to actuate before the click, let's see how it goes. I've heard about the pinks but I don't know anything about them.
@@TeamOT so it arrived today, I can consistently actuate the bronzes before the click but in a real scenario it doesn't bother me at all because I mainly play games, but I understand why typists hate the switch.
About box whites they actuate exactly at the click, I managed to actuate some switches before the click but it's sooo hard to pull off like you have to apply the perfect amount of pressure when the stem meets the click bar without going through and this only happens in some switches because in others it's straight up impossible. So there is some very small deviation between switches I guess but that's to be expected IMO.
I also changed keycaps two times already and the ones I put on and had to remove because I didnt like them were REALLY tight so I had to apply some force so that might have messed up the switches.
But all in all I would say yes you can make them actuate before the click if you really reaaaally try in some switches but in real usage it's straight up impossible and I doubt someone notices the 0.1 mm deviation in some switches lol.
I also found a single switch that doesnt actuate after clicking so it might be a defective one. Overall I'm very please with these switches, they feel and sound nice and feel very stable compared to the gateron browns I was using until now on a CK550
@@fireflameft2964 thanks dude! That helps a lot. My board is still far from here (lol), but I'll try it on a macropad I just got.
One question about the bronzes: do you feel like the switch is 'floaty' between the click and the bottom out? Like when I'm playing first person shooters/MMOS with Cherry Blues for example, I sometimes don't fully release a key (from the wasd cluster) before actuating again. In MMOs, I do this to stutter step to find ressources. One thing I didn't like about the MX Blues was that the switch always felt much mushier between the click and the bottom out (as compared to the feeling before the click).
I've never owned any other clickys, so I don't know if this is normal or I'm just asking for sometime uber specific. That's just what I thought people meant when they said a key was mushy.
Also, for your non actuating switch, this happened to me once: I bent the pin so perfectly during insertion (kek) that it looked like I had snapped it. I replaced the switch and set the faulty one aside only to realize a couple of days later that the pin had bent on itself AND folded itself so perfectly that the pin looked like a single sheet of metal instead of a bent/snapped pin. Switch worked great on the next board. Hopefully this will save one switch for you hahaha.
I love this guy's videos but I also love his voice and his profanity mixed with his voice and accent and just they way he presents himself is just great good work man
Thank you for this review. It was mind blowing to hear the difference in sound when using different keycaps (06:50). That was really informative - I'll have to try double-shot ABS keycaps in the near future. Awesome review as always.
It took nearly a year after you reviewed them, but I finally got my hands on these switches through the Motospeed CK89, one of the first and, to my knowledge, still very few pre-assembled Box White keyboards with a full-size layout. Notable for me is how Kaihua have by now lowered the actuation point below the tactile bump and click (or maybe moved the bump and click above the actuation?). But the somewhat large the distance between tactility and actuation now makes it so that it's possible for a very light tap to not register despite getting past the tactile bump and click. It's actually still a rather subtle issue, enough that most people will probably never encounter this, or at least only very infrequently, but I can imagine this could throw off some very light-fingered touch typists. As innovative as they are, and I appreciate it greatly, Kaihua probably still has a ways to go in their precision spec manufacturing and testing procedure.
Oh boy. I have to tell you about the MK Typist (over at mechanical keyboards dot com or amazon also seems to carry them)... Not only does it have box white switches, but it has doubleshot PBT caps, usb-c, programming dipswitches, and insane build quality. It LOOKS kinda plain in pics but in person you can see the quality. excellent board (dude I have TWO!). I THINK it's actually a ducky one with special switches, I'm not 100 on that though.
@@captainBoimler I was aware of the MK Typist as one of the few other pre-built boards with Box Whites. I actually really wanted one, but it's difficult to get for me where I live. My CK89 cost no shipping since I'm close to China, and it cost me just US$70. The build quality is decent, with a nicely anodized aluminum backplate, but not as heavy or solid as the MK Typist. I know because I also own a first generation Ducky One, the exact same chassis used on the MK Typist (yes, you're right that it was OEM'd by Ducky but with different switches. I recognized that it has the same body shell the moment I saw the pictures, and I looked it up to confirm). Duckies are some of the best built modern keyboards out there, so I'd have been happy to get my Box Whites on one. Unfortunately, it just isn't very accessible for me.
this or matias click.. which one do you prefer?
this.
yes
OverclockZoneTV Matias Click because it’s Alps
@@alpzerlaken these are similar to alps tho
@@jadeone similar but I think the sound wise they are mixed with cherry mx and alps.
Been using box blacks, and they are so smooth. It's unreal.
people waiting for the box white sounds while im enjoying your voice OOOAAAAAA so soothing
This was amazingly detailed. You feel like a keyboard designer, and sound like a radio host. Got my sub as I try to find a new keyboard.
Based on this video, I would love to see you review their Box Jades. That seems to be a favorite within the community, over box whites, and I would love to see you compare the two. :)
I bet you sound fucking awesome when you're sick.
I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on the v2 version of these switches, I tried one of them from a sampler on a Keychron k10 pro and they sound lower pitched and they were the switches I ended up buying.
This is sort of the first time I got switch samplers since last time I bought a keyboard there weren't any hot swappable choices for my layout of choice (Italian ISO) and went with a cherry brown.
I dunno if it was my speakers or youtube but especially when I put the sample switches in the k10 pro (PBT keycaps) the difference between cherry clicky switches and the kailh ones was much more pronounced than I expected, the rattling of cherry blues and greens really doesn't come out in youtube videos so it was a bit of a shock hearing it IRL, I haven't bothered trying the gateron clickies (of which there were really few in the sampler, most were either linear or brown-style tactile) since they sounded distincly MX-like and could see the click-jacket under the transparent cases.
I really liked how clickbar switches sound, even the higher pitched ones like the box summer were really nicer than cherries.
I couldn't quite verify the issue with the actuation point in the v1 switch, I think I might have managed with that another one of the other switches in the sampler once but I was trying to do it on purpose and seemed always on the cusp of the tactile bump. Perhaps they corrected or compensated for the issue since then?
wouldn't you rather have an actuation very slightly before the click? then the click guarantees the switch actuated. if it is the other way, it would be possible to release after the click with no actuation.
its very hard to make the click without actuating because the tactility means higher force at the click point, which drives the press past actuation.
On the other hand, having it before the actuation would feel weird because you can actuate without making sound, making the keyfeel inconsistent
This is the first video I watched on your channel and I am just amazed by your voice
Really helpful comparo between Kailh White and Cherry MX blues!
Your reviews are great! Think you’ve just made my mind up for me when comparing Cherry MX Blues and the Kailh Box Whites. :)
Which did you go for?
@@fraxytes Box Jades actually
Wait how tf did that happen
@@fraxytes Got myself a switch tester and tried some others =)
4 years later this is still the video I point people to when asked about my favourite switch
interesting, in the click-ml the switch actuates clearly after the click, so that sometimes, if you go 'light', only the click is produced with no actuation (this with an havit 390-something, sorry don't rememeber exactly the name of the keyboard)
I honestly prefer the sound of the Kailh BOX Whites with Cherry's thin PBT keycaps against any of the other ones. It's honestly right where it needs to be for me, not too high-piched but not too thocky either
4:45 I got an Anne Pro 2 with this switches and they actuate after the click, don´t know if it has something to do with them being second generation.
Do you still use that keeb how good are the switches ?
@@Pinguzxd The keyboard is really cute and the switches are amazing imo.
@@Pinguzxd I've tried Cherry MX, outemu and gateron and this are better.
how does kailh box white compare to outemu blue?
@@fulcrum1570 They are WAY better than outemu blue, trust me.
Just bought a keyboard with kailh box white switches since my cherry mx blues died. Giving them a shot. Thanks for such a solid review!
Chyros, have you had the opportunity to try the heavier Box Pale Blues? I'm wondering how the weighting on them compares to Membrane Buckling Spring.
I have tried both. They are heavier, but not anywhere near BS. I would say they are closer to MX browns.
buckling springs should still be a bit heavier with a 70-75g actuation compared to box pale blues 60g.
although buckling springs will have a lighter bottom out with less cushion
The plot has apparently thicked with the box navies, which are designed with a significantly higher tension clickbar.
Kailh offered to send me some samples of these awhile ago but wanted me to pay for shipping which I refused to do for a review sample. I'm happy I got to see them in action on your channel and see what they are like in actual usage. After watching the video I think my thoughts would have lined up quite similarly to yours, they have some improvements over MX Blues but still need some work to truly be a step forward.
This analysis level is INSANE!
6:51
Thnx
hey, thomas, do there is now v2 version of the kailh box whites. Wanna cover this one?
I wonder why they didn't position the click-bar stop on the stem/plunger assembly instead of the switch body. I believe that would improve the tactility of the switch. Maintain the stop on the body to act as a maximum positive-y travel stop for click bar.
I agree that the tactility could be better and that's why I went with Kailh Jades and Navy on modifiers and spacebar.
The The IP number indication Code is as follows:
First digit: Solid particle protection. (Single numeral: 0-6, 6 being the highest rating)
Second digit: Liquid ingress protection (Single numeral: 0-9, 9 being the highest rating)
Some times there is a 3rd number:
Third digit: Mechanical impact resistance (Single numeral: 0-9, 9 being the highest rating)
So IP56 is that bad at all.
About 6:20 you can tell that the MX is worn in and is not a freshy, I have been building keyboards forever now and I know my clicks..... After saying that, I wanted to say I chose to build in the last year 80% or so of the keyboards with Kailh Box switches, no longer a contest between the 2! I say this because the cherry MX blues have been a favorite since forever ago, but after testing the box switches and the fact that the MX's start to lose clickyness and response time after about 4 to 5 months, my original box whites from a year ago are still going strong! Only other switch at this point that I am absolutely in love with is Razer purples!
Why cherry doesn't actuate synchronized with the click sound? It's the conductive path that makes the sound after all...
Dude, what have you done to your soldering tip x) Two Tips to extend the lifetime: Only use one kind of solder, I personally still use lead-based and swear by its ease of use and longevity, but you may want to use lead-free. Whatever you choose, never change as to not stress the tip with an unpredictable alloy. Always (!) clean your tip every time you pick up or place down the iron. I like brass shavings much more than the wet sponge cleaner.
But, all that said: Old Cherry G80-3000 boards are def crap. I found an FR2 board in my early 90s g80-3000 which means the PCB is essentially made from cardboard. Pretty much everything uses FR4 instead now which is fiber glass. Unlike cardboard it doesn't take as much moisture over the years and remains fairly serviceable.
I just have the iron, not an expensive soldering station. I try to keep the tip clean, but after desoldering and soldering thousands of switches.... xD
I see, I started out with one of those too ^^
There are some clones of the Hakko 936 floating around for under 20€ that are ok, if you're in the market for a cheap, but usable station ;) They are much superior to anything that just plugs straight into the wall and they can take genuine Hakko tips which makes them stand out in the cheap station market. Look for Yihua or Aoyue 936. The original tips will be expensive. For desoldering switches an off-brand chisel tip should do just fine tho, even for thousands of switches :D
Thanks for the tip, I'll be on the lookout for that. I do enough soldering something like that would be quite useful :) .
im a total noob to soldering, and dont need it actually, just did some diy simple projects. But you say always clean the tip? I actually put some solder on it when i let it cool off. For one, i'd assume it keeps it better in shape protectin it from oxidation wand whatnot. And secondly, i know when its hot enough once i start it up again
Yes, there should always be some clean solder on the tip. By cleaning I mean you should put some fresh solder on the hot tip, and then rub it on the sponge or in brass shavings to take of any dirt. After that you should be left with a shiny coating. I don't know whether it is good or bad or neither to have a blob instead of a thin coating tbh. I can see your point, but I feel like a blob could break of easily when it cools, like a cold solder joint on a component leg.
Didnt know that Bob Ross Makes TECH Reviews...
He does *not* have Bob Ross hair, I'll tell you that.
I’d honestly give my right arm for those classic Win key caps. For some reason they are difficult to find, reproductions often don’t emulate the colour scheme or the orientation quite correctly and period correct ones are just impossible to find! Them paired up with some tai-Halo cubic for the rest of the keys would be lovely!
Just got a switch test kit and by far love this switch most of all!!
why is this guys voice so peaceful
I tested your claim of the actuation point being before the click by connecting a switch to a multimeter in continuity mode. For my single switch at least the actuation point is consistently after the click, not before. I can make it click, hold the position, and the multimeter will not detect continuity until I press the switch further down.
I realize that this video is a few months old so I guess it is possible that they have changed them since it was made.
Even without a typing test, this is still soothing
Digging the box format. It feels slightly less wobbly. That said, I went for a build with Outemu's, specifically the green (lime) ones. 80 grams of finger excersizing goodness. Nobody wants to even type on my keyboard, which suits me just fine :)
i like the way he talks lol nice and crispy voice is calmign
I want to modify the click bar mechanism with a metal contact so that the click is even louder. I wonder if I could make a miniature gong of sorts.
Will you be reviewing the newer thick clicks by kailh? They are pretty much the same design, except with a thicker clickbar that some people are saying are some of the most tactile switches - comparing them to bke topre even
IP56 is protected from "Strong stream of water from any direction". While you can't submerge your keyboard it still might protect from accidental spills.
Alright I tried pale blues AND. TBH, I highly recommend pale blues for clicky lovers but unfortunately, being spoiled by some really good tactile switches like U4T, I don't like clickies anymore. I think I'll try on last attempt with box whites and it's supposed to be a lighter version of pale blue.
What is the difference between the ABS Doubleshot letter keys and the compose thicker buttons? I'm not familiar with the term you used. Are those thicker bottom row keys only available on vintage boards or can I find those for a build? Also, what profile is this particular keyboard?
Wow, it sounds MUCH better than MX blue.
What are those keycaps? Please tell me I love them and the CHERRY G80-3000 so much. The retro look really is so nice. reminds me of my model m. I need those keycaps for my board.
8:02 is he describing box jades?
Where can I get some of those epic white-on-black Cherry doubleshots? I thought the usual black-on-"off-white" looked great, but those black ones just look supreme.
THERAZORKILLE They are from a Cherry as well :) .
If I had an ISO board, I'd try a little harder to find them. Unfortunately, all of my boards are ANSI and I can't imagine how difficult it'd be to find a Cherry board in ANSI that had those keycaps.
This guy sounds so chill, but he has a humor... I can hear it...
where can I buy keycaps that fits khali white box switches? :)
FLawLesS TaStE They're compatible with Cherry MX keycaps.
Very enjoyable review. Hope you're feeling better (Vitamin D). Wouldn't tactility be improved if the strike occurred against the stem instead of the housing? How much of the sound had to do with thickness vs type of plastic? Is ABS softer and therefore lower in pitch?
I bought a Anne Pro 2, and the Box whites sound amazing!
Good for gaming?
I love that we're getting these with thicker clickbars now. The future is beautiful.
It does seem like it could be a better design.
These switches are really awesome, honestly better than the clicky switches from cherry mx. Didn't try the navy blue's yet, would you take these over the blues or the other way around ?
Are you absolutely certain that the Box Whites activate before the click? I have the Box Pale Blues (which should be the same aside from spring weight), and from my testing I always get the click first then activation with a slow keypress. From what I gather on the message boards, it seems like most people agree that activation is after the click on these Box click-bar switches. I know the Bronze switches activated before the click, but it does not seem that the Box click-bars do. www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/6xxsuh/the_difference_between_kailh_bronze_and_kailh_box/
would you say it makes the key more sturdy like an alps feel over mx? sturdy as in, no wobble, you can press down on the edges of the key without it binding...is it closer to alps than mx in that regard?
I think you're confusing several terms here at the moment. They don't bind though; you can press edges down and it works fine.
What do you recommend over these for a more “tactile” switch then ?
Kailh box royals, or something less tactile maybe Mx clears, but if is too heavy for you then, ergo clears
Love BOX switches. I have a board with BOX blacks and one with whites and I'm building another one with the BOX whites right now. Only thing I've noticed is that the whites seem to have some minor inconsistencies in the click bar in that the click is muffled or doesn't double click sometimes. I'd say order a few extra to cover for bad switches and you should be good though
Best sounding switches I've heard so far. You mentioned that these are not very tactile yet still clicky, are there good clicky switches for gaming?
The man voice is soothing af.
Nice! I am going to try this on my next project keeb soon. Good review!
wait, do you unironically use your index finger for spacebar???
i unironically do that too
Wouldn't actuation before a click be useful since the click would let you know you actuated the switch?
I thought the same but in some instances he actuates without wanting to. He'll push down a bit on the key in games and fully click it to enable the action. Doing that is hard when the actuation is before the click.
@@nerdyneedsalife8315 I get that argument but you could also make the counter argument that if you use the click of the switch as a cue for when actuation happens, actuation before the click could cause you to actuate without registering a click, think you missed, and then go back and hit the key again for two actual presses. I agree that neither are perfect. I just don't see how one if objectively bad while the other isn't.
@@thechemtrailkid oh I agree, I thought the same as you, if the click is slightly after actuation, you know you already clicked it. I have a Model F so I don't have to worry about mismatch of click and actuation
I have an old Leopold FC200RT and planning to desolder the mx shits and put in either zeliostotles or Kailh's Box switches, which one is the cheaper option? also where can i find Thick Doubleshot keycaps? and which ones do people prefer?
I have a question for the chads: Does exist the switch like this, but with a better tactile bump? Because the crispy sound of Kailh box whites is amazing!
Maybe Kailh Box Navy is what you're looking for
@@lukian5711 I don't really like the sound. I am considering pale blue rn
Anyone knows if Kaihua(Kailh) has made the improvement of making the trigger bit later to be after the click sound? If so which model is that?
i wonder if kaihua took your recommendations @8:07 about thicker clickbars
Kevin Gian I think that's what they did for the Jades.
@@cacarlitoto yup it was pretty neat he predicted the future 😂
You should check out Kailh's new Box Navy switches some people are saying they are possibly the most tactile mx style switch and the click on those sound amazing
I've been looking into them ;) .
And we've been promised a speed variant of the navy aswell.
Speed pinks/bronze/copper(whichever the clicky one was) for some reason do it better for me than just box whites. Dunno why.
Sweet! Can't wait to see your review!
I tried Box White and Speed Bronze and I like Speed Bronze better.
I mean, seeing as they use the same click mechanism, is there really any difference in key feel? Genuine question, would like to know
How do you think bronzes compare to box whites? I'd like to get click bar switches for my next build, but box whites don't have led mounting holes in them.
They seem fairly comparable in terms of feel.
Chyrosran22 Do they sound different because of the different housings? I've only found one sound test of the bronzes in youtube.
The sound is slightly, but not radically, different, yes.
i have this very conundrum!! went ahead and bought the heavy speed pale blues (70g bronzes) tho because i couldn't wait LOL
Jesse Särkkinen There’s one very big difference between the Speed Bronzes and the BOX Whites - actuation. Speed Bronze switches actually actuate right *before* the click bar, which has thrown off some typists. If you can handle that and look past it, then the Speed Bronze feel identical to the BOX White.
As always great video, and i had a nice little score today of a new with the plastic film still on HP keyboard for $1 US at a local church ran thrift store, and yes while not mechanical it's a cheap, but usable keyboard I can use at work, and not have to worry about someone trying to steal like one of my Cherry, G84 or Logitech wireless keyboards I would end up locking in my desk drawer at the end of the day lol!
Hi @Chyrisran22 what mic do you use? and what amppliffier eventually?
7:41 pun intended?
The thick tall double shot abs caps sound just like click modded black alps
This man was coughing before it was *viral*
7:13, I use alt+shift to change to Greek. This button looks neat!
Przełączniki klawiatury Dreamkey TKL White Kailh Box zachwycają precyzją i reakcją. Nie trzeba zbyt mocno naciskać klawiszy, aby zareagowały.
Hey Thomas, how do you feel about how these stack up against Matias switches in terms of key feel and sound? Basically I'd love to hear your thoughts on the best widely available modern clicky tactile switch.
SinisterPrince Matiases sound better. I might be revisiting this topic soon, actually.
are you sure kailh box switches activate before the click? i can click my box jades without activating the key
Somehow MX Blues just feel a bit more tactile to me. I'm not sure why that is.
These BOX switches are great though. I just wish these and the tactile browns were more tactile somehow.
your videos are fantastic after watching them i am seriously thinking about switching my keyboard quick question if i may which one do you think is better Zealiostotles or kailh white box switch?
Jack alope Zealiostotles, much more tactile.
thankyou for the quick reply
Chyrosran22 Which click do you like more?
The way that you type is interesting. I can tell with the way you are angled and moving back and forth it seems to be for an ergonomic reason. What I"m curious is it a habit you developed personally or some known style I am unaware of?
It's just the way I type. I can type without looking, but I didn't learn to do it the approved, official way. I just type in whatever way is most comfortable for me :) .
I used 45grams springs on mx blues and I totally prefer them, because they feel more tactile. I'm planning to do exactly the same with the kailh as well and hope I prefer them over the MX blues.
How do the white boxes compare to ALPs/Matias and the Gatistole swithes?
Btw, I'm not sure the springs are completely compatible. I think they have a shorter diameter on the Kailhs. White boxes feel quite different from gatistotles and Alps, definitely less tactile than either.
The spring shouldn't affect tactility on an mx, it's pretty much all in the bump you have to overcome. I don't have blues on hand, but putting a lighter spring in a gat green doesn't seem to make it more tactile imho. Maybe the tactile bump is a bit more noticeable, as you don't apply as much force to go past it, but it doesn't seem to increase in magnitude. This is based on couple minutes with one switch, no idea how it'd feel with a whole keyboard tbh.
The tactility doesn't change, but because you apply less force it makes it FEEL more tactile. For example if you have 500 grams springs, the 10gram difference cause from the bump is negligible and you won't feel a thing. However if you have 20 grams spring, the tactile bump will be VERY noticeable.
I've tried the 45g on a whole board instead of the stock 55g and I totally prefer it. The stock MX blue feels dead compared to the lighter one (in terms of tactiliy), or at least for my fingers. However at 45g the feel less premium, so I'm looking for a more tactile clicky switch at around 55g.
Compared to Gatistotles they feel a bit less tactile but I prefer the clickbar vs the jacket, though I do not have a full keyboard with Gatistotles, just one in a tester. I can compare Pale Blues (heavier version of the BOX whites) and the MX Blues. Pale blues have a more distinct and sharp click, the sound is also less plastic-y. Tactility wise they feel more tactile than MX Blues and are also smoother (haven't tried lubing either tho). I'd say that BOX Pale blues are better in everything compared to MX Blues.
Have you tried the EC Ivy switch from Varmilo? If so - how does these two compare?
should I get box whites or box jades, I heard box whites are kinda linear but more on clicky (i mean not so tactile) so I had my eyes on whites.