After hours of searching for a disassembly guide for a AGM MP40, yours is the only one that I found. So... thank you very much! And it's a great video.
I love my mp40. Recently put in a new spring guide, piston, piston head and a sturdier spring (same FPS but irregular pitch) (waiting on my tightbore and I have the TM am hop up as well haha)I’ve put it together and taken it apart multiple times now because it keeps blowing fuses. No wires are grounding out and causing shorts though. Gun will fire for a little bit then totally stop. Fuse gets hot and gets ready to blow. The trigger piece makes full connection with the prongs inside the gearbox too. But when it’s all put together it doesn’t work. But will work not put together. And another question, what mags do you use? The stock 50 round mag is the only one that doesn’t misfeed like crazy like the Kings arms 110rounds. Full auto it’ll only shoot the first round then I have to let off the trigger to let it possibly feed a new BB. My m16 and m4 don’t have any problems and the m16 has similar upgrades.
Are you magazine springs weak? This is a problem that can occur in both airsoft and real firearms if the action [nozzle in this case] is cycling faster than the magazine spring can operate, thereby travelling forward before the spring has had time to push up the next round/BB. As for the wiring that's hard to diagnose and I'm by no means an expert when it comes to wiring as I mainly deal in gas blowbacks. If wiring to deans with say 16 gauge wire and a higher amp fuse doesn't solve the problem then that's the limit of my advice. Best bet to is to take it to a shop to have the wiring looked at.
TaZ101SAGA today I had the ability to play with my gun. I stuck 3.5 inch wood slabs in the magazines to make the springs under more pressure, changed back to the stock nozzle, upgraded spring and piston held and had a fantastic day shooting. All my rounds fed and everything. Thank you for that little bit of advice about weak springs! The nozzle I believe was too short so I had to revert to stock. But I had no issues and my bbs were relatively straight and flew a good distance farther than they had before. Definitely kept up with the high end M4s and what not. Before I wasn’t haha
Hello! I was thinking on getting one of these and I wonder what upgrades do you recommend to be done in the gun. A pretty informative disassembly, cheers :)
The most important things you can upgrade are the bushings (6mm) and spring guide, upgrade both to metal ones, the stock ones are shit. I also recommend that you upgrade to a steel toothed piston, an aluminium piston head & dual o-ring cylinder head for durability and better air seal. The nozzle is proprietary. Upgrading the barrel & hop unit is optional but it is worth the money, and a dremel will be handy: Since this video I have modified a TM ak47 hop unit to fit. (there are guides on the internet on how to do this). Using in combination with a madbull 6.03 tightbore barrel for an MP5 and a G&G green hop up bucking. If you cut the bridge of the barrel you can install a maple leaf bucking, although for an SMG I didn't think it was worth doing but that's up to you. I'm getting very good results using 0.25 BBs with this barrel setup. Hope that helps.
TaZ101SAGA thanks I appreciate it! The mp40 Is one of my favorite guns and I'd like to add this one to the collection, These upgrades will certainly come in hand.
Do u happen to know the length of the nozzle?, and if any other nozzles would be a suitable replacement for the stock one?, I'm sure the stock nozzle is proprietary.
Of course but that's the reality of what most people are using and it does come a little short. I find that it's best used aggressively at very short ranges where hits are guaranteed. If you can take out any opposing player[s] before they have the chance to use the advantage of a bigger magazine. Isn't always possible but you rely on team mates for protection. Doing a German loadout for me is more of an aesthetic and historical interest rather than practicality.
Assembled everything back up even though i did not notice where some are from (somehow i figured it out). And now it works, except it doesnt push out any air out. Pump might be put wrong maybe?
@@TaZ101SAGA The fourth assembly i finally managed to put it back correctly, but after 5 or so automatic shots it would not fire...Something in the motor is jammed, maybe?
I have a question, there's a spring that looks exactly like the spring that pulls the tappet plate forward but it's slightly smaller. I have no idea where it goes or connects to, could you explain what or where it goes?
It's not weathered paint. It was stripped and re-finished using a bluing agent, like the original gun, and then lightly weathered afterwards. It did not take well to the stock bars as those are a different metal.
I disassembled the gun and reassembled and now it won't stop jamming. Checked everything 3-4 times. Sometimes the BBs shoot out 2 meters, rarely they shoot normal, sometimes two BBs at the same time. I'm really frustrated!
@@tylermclim I returned it. Like I said in the comment I un- and reassembled everything multiple times. I was not very into airsofts back then and didn't want to risk buying a new gearbox or something like that. The AGM MP40 wasn't really well made either, but it also wasn't that expensive honestly. I'd advise returning it and looking for more expensive ones whose build quality is better.
There isn't really an exact science to it. The AGM gearbox is one of the more difficult ones to put together smoothly. Just hold it all together and make sure the axels of everything are in the correct holes after you replace the spring guide and shell.
@@TaZ101SAGA its easier said than done but i got it done with a lot of bad words and sore fingers. no wonder you cut the video to an assembled shot, was a help though thanks!
Hi Tim, I used Nitromors and wire wheel attachments for a standard drill to remove the original paint. The surface must be shined and thoroughly de-greased with Robla spray before bluing. The bluing agent I use on all my guns (Done another since) is Ballistol Klever, which costs about £15 for a bottle. Due to the general lack of durability that comes from cold bluing, I recommend using a clear lacquer on the gun after the curing process is complete. Without it, the surface needs a lot of maintenance or it will rust easily. The lacquer will prevent this. Cold bluing takes a bit of practice to get good at but if done correctly looks far superior to the cheap spray paint finish.
Perfect, many thanks for the info! Think I'll start with the mag first, at least that is easier to replace if I mess it up! Out of interest, how come the barrel hasn't been done, still looks painted? Mine has yet to arrive so might be an obvious answer once I get hold of it.
If you mess up any bluing, you can easily remove it with a product called Birchwood Casey blue & rust remover, just follow the instructions to the word and it'll work. Or just use steel wool if you're lazy. The barrel already has a blue type finish for some reason, so I didn't touch that. There are plenty of good guides on the internet about cold bluing. Practicing on the magazines first is an excellent idea. The key to success is good preparation of the surface. The proper timing, applying the agent quickly and evenly and blending the colour with fine steel wool. Although the other videos on the internet do not mention lacquer, I highly recommend doing 2-3 very light coats after the gun has cured (Degrease again first) as it will seal it from the elements, rather than having to constantly oil the bloody thing. Hope all goes well.
great video but could you do one on how to remove the inner barrel and hop up chamber? I cant for the life of me find anywhere on the entire wide web about how to take out the hop up and barrel and its fucking with me.
Any regular AEG spring will work in it. Why you would want to put that powerful of a spring in it, I do not know. Completely unnecessary and will quickly wear out your gun and reduce performance if you didn't upgrade the rest of it.
You don't need 450FPS for outdoor fields. Mine shoots at 330 and out-ranges many stock M4s because of the upgrades I have placed in it. You will achieve better range by upgrading your hop up unit, bucking and barrel. FPS is not everything.
I FELL ASLEEP THREE TIMES WHILE WATCHING THIS VIDEO.....LETS HEAR IT FOR THE SENSATIONAL AND EXCITING BRITS! THEIR EXPLANATIONS ARE AS MOVING AS A LETHARGIC SNAIL.
IIRC You must also take off the selector plate and the internal piece [I forget the name] that puts friction on the sector gear in semi auto. If you don't then the gun will only fire in semi auto if you remove the selector.
After hours of searching for a disassembly guide for a AGM MP40, yours is the only one that I found. So... thank you very much! And it's a great video.
I love my mp40. Recently put in a new spring guide, piston, piston head and a sturdier spring (same FPS but irregular pitch) (waiting on my tightbore and I have the TM am hop up as well haha)I’ve put it together and taken it apart multiple times now because it keeps blowing fuses. No wires are grounding out and causing shorts though. Gun will fire for a little bit then totally stop. Fuse gets hot and gets ready to blow. The trigger piece makes full connection with the prongs inside the gearbox too. But when it’s all put together it doesn’t work. But will work not put together. And another question, what mags do you use? The stock 50 round mag is the only one that doesn’t misfeed like crazy like the Kings arms 110rounds. Full auto it’ll only shoot the first round then I have to let off the trigger to let it possibly feed a new BB. My m16 and m4 don’t have any problems and the m16 has similar upgrades.
Are you magazine springs weak? This is a problem that can occur in both airsoft and real firearms if the action [nozzle in this case] is cycling faster than the magazine spring can operate, thereby travelling forward before the spring has had time to push up the next round/BB. As for the wiring that's hard to diagnose and I'm by no means an expert when it comes to wiring as I mainly deal in gas blowbacks. If wiring to deans with say 16 gauge wire and a higher amp fuse doesn't solve the problem then that's the limit of my advice. Best bet to is to take it to a shop to have the wiring looked at.
TaZ101SAGA today I had the ability to play with my gun. I stuck 3.5 inch wood slabs in the magazines to make the springs under more pressure, changed back to the stock nozzle, upgraded spring and piston held and had a fantastic day shooting. All my rounds fed and everything. Thank you for that little bit of advice about weak springs! The nozzle I believe was too short so I had to revert to stock. But I had no issues and my bbs were relatively straight and flew a good distance farther than they had before. Definitely kept up with the high end M4s and what not. Before I wasn’t haha
Hello! I was thinking on getting one of these and I wonder what upgrades do you recommend to be done in the gun. A pretty informative disassembly, cheers :)
The most important things you can upgrade are the bushings (6mm) and spring guide, upgrade both to metal ones, the stock ones are shit. I also recommend that you upgrade to a steel toothed piston, an aluminium piston head & dual o-ring cylinder head for durability and better air seal. The nozzle is proprietary.
Upgrading the barrel & hop unit is optional but it is worth the money, and a dremel will be handy:
Since this video I have modified a TM ak47 hop unit to fit. (there are guides on the internet on how to do this). Using in combination with a madbull 6.03 tightbore barrel for an MP5 and a G&G green hop up bucking. If you cut the bridge of the barrel you can install a maple leaf bucking, although for an SMG I didn't think it was worth doing but that's up to you.
I'm getting very good results using 0.25 BBs with this barrel setup.
Hope that helps.
TaZ101SAGA thanks I appreciate it! The mp40 Is one of my favorite guns and I'd like to add this one to the collection, These upgrades will certainly come in hand.
Do u happen to know the length of the nozzle?, and if any other nozzles would be a suitable replacement for the stock one?, I'm sure the stock nozzle is proprietary.
I don't. It is proprietary, although I've recently purchased an aluminium O-Ring nozzle for Steyr
AUG which can be filed down slightly to fit.
I did hear about AUG nozzles fitting after some filing down 🤔, anyway, Thanks for the reply!
Christian Garcia I know it’s been a year, but it’s 22.13mm
@@sethmorton6372 Its cool man, I appreciate it nonetheless 🙏
Seriously awesome gun no one expecting you to run a mp40 with a bunch of ar and aks
Of course but that's the reality of what most people are using and it does come a little short. I find that it's best used aggressively at very short ranges where hits are guaranteed. If you can take out any opposing player[s] before they have the chance to use the advantage of a bigger magazine. Isn't always possible but you rely on team mates for protection. Doing a German loadout for me is more of an aesthetic and historical interest rather than practicality.
Same for about every world war weapon thats not a modern rifle
TaZ101SAGA yeah cqc is pretty decent haven't used it to much since I just got it a week ago
When I took apart the gearbox it was really greasy and dirty lol
One of the best guides man!
Wilkommen :]
Assembled everything back up even though i did not notice where some are from (somehow i figured it out). And now it works, except it doesnt push out any air out. Pump might be put wrong maybe?
Disassembled it again, turned out the pump wasnt aligned with the rail
@@NevaranUniverse Sorted then?
@@TaZ101SAGA Seems to not want to fire sometimes again, but at least i didnt break anything haha
@@TaZ101SAGA The fourth assembly i finally managed to put it back correctly, but after 5 or so automatic shots it would not fire...Something in the motor is jammed, maybe?
A very good video! now we need a take down of the front part to complete this :)
Thank you very much for this video
I look it again and again when i have a gearjam
Regards from Germany :)
Ive two questions:
How strong is your spring, and what kind battery are you using? (how many volts/ milliampere)
M100.
8.4 1600MAh
TaZ101SAGA thank you👍
the little metal rod that holds the spring for the tappet plate 10:00 , snapped off on mine.
You will need a new gearbox shell then I'm afraid!
Hey whats name of the tool you used to remove the screws ?
Any idea why mine works fine in full auto but just makes a clicking noise is semi. Great video by the way thanks so much.
Couldn't say. I disabled the semi auto function on mine.
Well first off I think it's a malfunction when your moving the selector switch so move it to full auto and back till it stops clicking
I have a question, there's a spring that looks exactly like the spring that pulls the tappet plate forward but it's slightly smaller. I have no idea where it goes or connects to, could you explain what or where it goes?
How did you weather the paint?
It's not weathered paint. It was stripped and re-finished using a bluing agent, like the original gun, and then lightly weathered afterwards. It did not take well to the stock bars as those are a different metal.
TaZ101SAGA I think they're aluminum
They are. Used some Ali blue but that didn't take to the surface that well either.
TaZ101SAGA aluminum and steel don't go well together lol
What spring do u put on the stopper thing at the gears
Do you mean the anti reversal latch? That'd be the anti reversal latch spring pal.
Hi, I lost the trigger bar screw, the one that he said not to loose. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for that screw ?
Just use any screw that'll fit. Screws a screw mate. They're nothing special or unique.
@@TaZ101SAGA yeah but it needs to maintain the bar attached, idk how I will find a thin screw with a large head.
I disassembled the gun and reassembled and now it won't stop jamming. Checked everything 3-4 times. Sometimes the BBs shoot out 2 meters, rarely they shoot normal, sometimes two BBs at the same time. I'm really frustrated!
Had the same problem, how did you fix it?
@@tylermclim I returned it. Like I said in the comment I un- and reassembled everything multiple times. I was not very into airsofts back then and didn't want to risk buying a new gearbox or something like that. The AGM MP40 wasn't really well made either, but it also wasn't that expensive honestly. I'd advise returning it and looking for more expensive ones whose build quality is better.
can you explain how to change the hop up camera of the mp40 agm?
Please elaborate, thanks.
What type of piston/ piston case do you have in yours as mine needs replacing?
Do you mean the cylinder? V3. Piston is V3 also.
good over all but the return spring is a pain cause not enough explanation how to install it
There isn't really an exact science to it. The AGM gearbox is one of the more difficult ones to put together smoothly. Just hold it all together and make sure the axels of everything are in the correct holes after you replace the spring guide and shell.
@@TaZ101SAGA its easier said than done but i got it done with a lot of bad words and sore fingers. no wonder you cut the video to an assembled shot, was a help though thanks!
Love the finish! any more info on it? How did you remove the original paint and which bluing did you use? So much nicer than the black paint!
Hi Tim,
I used Nitromors and wire wheel attachments for a standard drill to remove the original paint. The surface must be shined and thoroughly de-greased with Robla spray before bluing. The bluing agent I use on all my guns (Done another since) is Ballistol Klever, which costs about £15 for a bottle. Due to the general lack of durability that comes from cold bluing, I recommend using a clear lacquer on the gun after the curing process is complete. Without it, the surface needs a lot of maintenance or it will rust easily. The lacquer will prevent this. Cold bluing takes a bit of practice to get good at but if done correctly looks far superior to the cheap spray paint finish.
Perfect, many thanks for the info! Think I'll start with the mag first, at least that is easier to replace if I mess it up! Out of interest, how come the barrel hasn't been done, still looks painted? Mine has yet to arrive so might be an obvious answer once I get hold of it.
If you mess up any bluing, you can easily remove it with a product called Birchwood Casey blue & rust remover, just follow the instructions to the word and it'll work. Or just use steel wool if you're lazy.
The barrel already has a blue type finish for some reason, so I didn't touch that. There are plenty of good guides on the internet about cold bluing. Practicing on the magazines first is an excellent idea. The key to success is good preparation of the surface. The proper timing, applying the agent quickly and evenly and blending the colour with fine steel wool. Although the other videos on the internet do not mention lacquer, I highly recommend doing 2-3 very light coats after the gun has cured (Degrease again first) as it will seal it from the elements, rather than having to constantly oil the bloody thing.
Hope all goes well.
Anyone knows where the motor height adjustment is on this gun?
You must remove the gearbox.
@shawnstafford7809I had the same thing happen
@shawnstafford7809 I got my gearbox together again but now the bbs just roll out the end of the gun
great video but could you do one on how to remove the inner barrel and hop up chamber? I cant for the life of me find anywhere on the entire wide web about how to take out the hop up and barrel and its fucking with me.
It's just a couple of screws from what I remember.
this video really helped me thank you very much :)
You're welcome, glad the video helped somebody as this is always my aim.
Where MP 40 have fuse ?
In the grip.
Thank you
Ну ты и любезный конечно тип! Спасибо, что снял
Same.
How much FPS?
This one around 340
thank you
would this spring work in it? www.evike.com/products/31458/ i wanted to upgrade the stock spring in it and was wonder if it would work
Any regular AEG spring will work in it. Why you would want to put that powerful of a spring in it, I do not know. Completely unnecessary and will quickly wear out your gun and reduce performance if you didn't upgrade the rest of it.
well i wanted to make it fairly good in outdoor field most of my guns shoot around 450 anyways other than my mosin
You don't need 450FPS for outdoor fields. Mine shoots at 330 and out-ranges many stock M4s because of the upgrades I have placed in it. You will achieve better range by upgrading your hop up unit, bucking and barrel. FPS is not everything.
TY bro for the vid!!
Thank you, my gun is now broken
Best of luck.
I FELL ASLEEP THREE TIMES WHILE WATCHING THIS VIDEO.....LETS HEAR IT FOR THE SENSATIONAL AND EXCITING BRITS! THEIR EXPLANATIONS ARE AS MOVING AS A LETHARGIC SNAIL.
Hahahahaha
when i get mine im going to fill the selector in , that swich buggers the fuck out of me lol
It's a bit rubbish, I converted mine to full auto only.
was this easy to do, i figured just leaving it on full auto then taking the selector off and filling the gap with filler lol
IIRC You must also take off the selector plate and the internal piece [I forget the name] that puts friction on the sector gear in semi auto. If you don't then the gun will only fire in semi auto if you remove the selector.
Wie soll ich etwas sehen wenn das video so eine scheiß auflösung hat
Great video, but quality is horrible, can't see shit
Yeah it's a pretty old video ha ha.