I’m riding 34 front to 36 rear for many years. 10 speed drivetrain, dura ace shifters with XTR rear mech (970 series) matches perfectly. At 67 years old I’m not the youngest any more and happy that this gearing works so great.
We need 48/32 subcompact cranks. Like you, I almost never use my highest gears. A subcompact cranks would let us use more of our cassettes regularly, while giving us super low gearing.
Shimano gives you a 48/31 and even a 46/30 option with their GRX cranks. Pair that with an 11-34 cassette and you should be happy, if you can live with an unmatched crank or a full gravel groupset on a road bike.
@@ZavyalovCycling 48/32 chainrings exist, if you don't mind riding non Shimano cranks. As for going for GRX, you'd also have to change the front derailleur since compared to road groupsets the Q factor is different to allow wider rear stays.
This whole conversation really depends on what sort of mountains a cyclist climbs. What he is suggesting would be silly for someone out there in Kansas (flat terrain).
@@ZavyalovCycling I once rode 53-11 sprinting on a flat highway at 45km/h. I almost died. A fruit cart vendor suddenly crossed the street. He was surprised as much as I am. Luckily he was able to turn his cart sideways and I was able to avoid crashing at him. That incident scared my shit out of me. I rode a lot slower after that. I was trying to find out how fast my legs could go. I didn’t even have clipless pedals and bike shoes then. I can probably go faster now. But I am too afraid to find out to do any personal land speed records for now.
@@iMadrid11you should scout and find a quieter road, if you've got any development projects nearby, try looking around there for wide and smooth, but underpopulated roads. 53-11 is a massive gear for a speed of 45kmph, typically you want to reserve your torque for all but the first three or so kicks, and you should be spinning after that to maintain your speed. Probably pick something much larger like a 53-14 and you might be able to accelerate much more initially and still have the energy to maintain the speed
My lowest gear is 20-38 my highest is 56-11. When I first started racing in 1971 my trainer warned me to avoid the high gears and ride the ratio to keep my cadence as close to 90 as possible and heart rate manageable (we did not have portable heart rate monitors at that time). Makes the time a little slower at the start, but by the end of the race, still have plenty left in the tank.
I'm riding 50/34 with 12-34 for many years now (even switching to 12-36 when I go to the Alps). Using Campagnolo Super Record Ergopowers with Shimano XTR via SiftMate, works perfectly, I'm very happy with that.
Robbie McGewan on GCN+ seemed to think he knew what it was. In my youth I used a 13-21 and 52-42. I don't know how I got up the hills. Nowadays I use a 11-28 and 50-34. I get uncomfortable at 40 mph so I don't use my 11-13 cogs even on downhills.
I used to train intervals in my 52 11 up hills until I heard some experts say that low cadence work isn't the best way to train. It's just a constant push and pull with the entire body and at least felt like a good work out.
Perfect analysis. I think what drives it is: 1) ego and 2) American crit cycling. I personally use 50/34, 11-34t and it’s great. Puzzled why Roglic went Xplr when he could’ve gone 46/33, 10-33t with Red.
My factory default setup was 50/34 crank and 11-32 cassette. I changed both of them on my specialised roubaix to 48/32 crank and 11-34 cassette. It’s even better than 1:1. It’s a perfect setup for a heavy guy doing steep climbs. I did all the installations myself - bought tools and components for total amount of less than 300 EUR.
It actually looks like the front chainring is smaller than the largest sprocket. I've heard it was a 40. That makes more sense as he could have had a 1:1 ratio with a more standard 2x set up , eg 46/33 and 10/33. For the super steep gradients of up to 22%, the more mechanical advantage the better!
For the normal guy, even a sub compact with a 11-34 cassette (1:1 gear) is still unnecessary big and you will most likely find yourself more often to wish for a lower gear than you miss top-end when you encounter longer steeper climbs. 2 years ago i ditched my shiny dura-ace crank for a 46/30 GRX one, with a 11-36 in the back. 46-11 is still fine up to around 55kph, above that i coast downhill and enjoy the view, but with 30-36 i always have an easy enough gear on hand after a long ride with a bit of bike-packing stuff to get up any incline comfortably. sure, if you only use the bike as a training machine for 1-2h all out sprints than you dont need the lower gears, and in complete flat terrain you can easily go for the bigger chainrings too, but for more audax and endurance focused rides with all sorts of terrain its nice to have the GRX 2x or similar SRAM setups. the only thing i sometimes miss is the 14 tooth cog on the cassette.
I live in the Alps and pedal at high cadence (93 - 105). My 2 main bikes are geared 46/30 with 10/42 (Sram xg1195) and 50/33 with 9/42 (E*Thirteen XCX). First bike is Bianchi Oltre XR4. Second is Winspace SLC 2.0. Both bikes are 11 speed Di2. Looking at 12 speed but there aren't any suitable cassettes available yet, other than the XPLR 10/44 which might work with a hanger extender on a 2x set up... I absolutely need the gearing I use to be able to maintain my preferred cadence as soon as the gradient hits 10%. 59 years old and although not super fast am still in the top 3 in my age group for my local climbs : Iseran, Cormet de Roseland, PSB
I have 30 on the front and 29 in back on my road bike and 30 to 36 on my gravel bike. They are both the same weight. On very steep climbs like 12% or more I am usally faster with the gravel bike with 45mm offroad tires. So I agree their should be a option for terrain in stores. So you can buy a default bike with 34:36 if it's not flat there you are riding.
It really depends. I think Roglic's choice of gears makes sense, when the stage itself was so long as well as the tour and you need to keep your legs fresh for the next day. Amateurs do not race such kind of races so the concern is quite different. I ride a 53-39 and 11-25 cassette and I can spin out on short, steep descents. If you race, at a certain level, 50-34 with 11-30 is somewhat risky because there are many jumps between gears, which can make you spin too much or grind, and you can't jump into a sprint when in a bunch, which moves faster already, as it requires a higher (heavier gear). If anything, keeping an extra cassette around for different terrain is best bang for your buck. If you want to get stronger, you need to be able to push a high gear anyways. My race results improved by changing from 50-34 to 52-36 and now 53-39.
@@ZavyalovCycling I have done races where the course is mostly flat or hilly, but nothing like 20km long climbs that you see in the tours. Changing the cassette is usually enough as well as losing 2kg of body weight.
I run microshift advent x with a 40t in front and 11-48t. I got it for gravel riding but I spend 90% of the time on the road and it's kind of great. Big cadence jumps are annoying but you just get used to it lol. I can spin at like 90 rpm on some gnarly climbs. Great for z2 training as well. I can stay in z2 on over 10% gradients if my cadence is low enough.
I have a SRAM setup with 48/35 and 10-36. My lowest gear is even easier than 1:1, while the top gear is almost equivalent to 53x11. (Disregarding inefficiencies from smaller cogs) It's a great setup for an amateur, I can spin up all but the steepest climbs at 90+ RPM. And like you say, the top gear gets rarely used, pretty much only on long straight descents where I end up spinning out and am better off just going small and aero and freewheeling. And even for sprinters, the inefficiencies from 10T are irrelevant in a Sprint where it's much more about positioning and timing than a few Watts more. That being said, on fast rides without steep or very long climbs, I often don't even use the small ring - the lowest gear being 48x36 (1:1.33) then. I'll probably get a second road bike next year and will build it with all this in mind - one bike for climbing and training (with a ~1:1 lowest gear) and one bike for going fast (with a ~1:1.2-1.3 lowest gear), maybe not even a higher top gear but at least smaller jumps in the cassette.
in my time it was standard 39/53 front and 21/12 rear 8 speed, in nornall ride i used 39 and first 5 gears on rear, on race : 53 and 3.-5. gear on rear, so 14,13 and 12 teeth gears i never used
Wow. Didn't realize his chainring was so small. Thought he had a massive ring on the front with the 10-44 on the back. If I was building a road bike with 1x I would probably aim for 42T, should be more than enough for my ageing legs.
I’ve got two bikes, one is a steel vintage with 53/39 and lowest is 23 on cassette which is fine for a local climb of 4 kilometres with average of 6% gradient and my other bike is a gravel bike which had 50/34 and 32 cassette which I have now changed for a 34 cassette with a shimano 46/30 grx 600 crank, I had to use the 810 grx front derailer as the 105 wouldn’t throw out enough, I’m trying this new set up out this weekend on an 80mile route, it’ll be interesting to see how it performs .
I am not sure if for my next bike I should choose 56 chainring with 11x42 and grx di2 or just 54/40 and 11x34 duraace for circuit racing. Right now I have 52/36 and 11/28 and I am not satisfied with both ends of the cassette.
on very steep hill i use on 26" mtb 22-34 gears and it is my power/speed limit, my speed is 3.6km/h or 1 m/s, and if i have less gear ratio i would have to have less speed or more rpm, both are no good
Yes 34x34 which is the typical lower end of road group set gearing from shimano has to much rollout for very steep climbs. Particularly for the vast majority of cyclists who FTP 200 to 300w, even with 34x34 you'll be dying on a climb like the Zoncolan 🥵
More important than ftp on steep grades is power to weight. A one to one ratio should be sufficient for most enthusiasts looking to get good work on the bike. And most ppl train lower cadence rather than spinning
If one uses a racing triple (52 x 40 x 28) then one can use a cluster in the back that has sensitive, close gear ratios and still get a 1 to 1 low end.
@@ZavyalovCycling I have an old Masi 3V Volumetrica. When I was still racing a bit I had a 53 x 42 x 30 on the front with a 12 - 23 9 speed on the back. I had the same set up on my Cannondale before I got the Masi. Now that I am an old, slow fart, I have switched to a 52 x 40 x 28 on the front and a 14 - 28 on the rear
Given srams powermeter chainring solutions it doesn't really play to riders that want to change their gearing for each course given the high costs involved.
You're just not riding with fast people I guess. I use the higher gears relatively often, especially in fast group rides. Mayba as much as my lowest gear if I'd take a comparison. The lowest gear beomes of use, when I ride above 15%, yes. But this is still a special case as well and I guess many people wouldn't need these gears, if they don't live close to steep climbs like that.
If you ride a circuit where you can predict exactly what gears you are gonna need.. and you can afford a specific setup for that day .. sure.. there's people cycling on fixies so go wild... but in reality .. no. Also Roglic dropped his chain... a chain guide would have helped him to at least 7 maybe 10 more seconds (just in case Geraint was faster than he was now)..now that's an improvement for a small price.
I have been using a single 44 chainring + 10-42 11speed since 2017 and now 10-44 12speed (XPLR) and it feels like double chainring and grinding gears are an ancient thing, au pair with cantilevers on a MTB... with the 11speed one there was a bit of a noticeable gap mid cassette but with the 12s it's just fine. I only miss an extra high gear when I'm pushing hard with the fastest guys from the club over 55kmh on the flat, which doesn't happen very often... maybe a couple of minutes once a month. On the other side of the spectrum, I can climb almost everything on the bike over 60rpm, even bikepacking. Single chainring for racing normal stages is going to take a lot of tweaking, but for these specific stages and general recreative cycling... I like the Ekar 13s 10-44 gear distribution better and Magura brakes! but mechanical is a big no-no... :S they are launching wireless record now, so give it a year or two
Yeah sure, we should choose our gears like Roglič because our family members ecstatically wait for us with second bicycle at the bottom of every climb.
Unless people drop the 'this is what the pro's use bruv', cry me a river, I have no sympathy for anyone complaining it's hard uphill. Same as bad, is waiting for them to catch up bouncing away, spinning their 28t chainring and 40t cog on flats on their 1x 'gravel' bulldozer, when the group ride in on the road, not off road, keep that shit for your commute Darren. Rant over.
just sponsored by sram......before compact cranks are on the market , shimano try to make moe advertisement für a 3 chain crank in the front, the profis have to ride because of their contracts.......
Bro most bikes come with 50-34. Coming from a flat country this gearing is way too low. Its great when climbing but a 52-36 with a 34 cassette would work great
50/11 is not too low for MOST riders. It's too low for people who want to keep pedaling past about 70-75k/h. MOST riders, particularly on entry and mid level bikes, aren't doing that, but are undergeared for prolonged steep ascents, even at 1:1.
@@desmoMarco91 Yup... if you're good enough to need more than 50/11 in flat terrain, you can probably spin faster than 90rpm too, and if you're doing that, you're getting your gear for free because you're a tour pro :)
Even with a cog of 12, the 50-t ring gives you ~ 30mph / 48 kmh at 90 rpm. Are there really that many amateur riders capable of keeping such speed for long? 🤪
@@veganpotterthevegan mwahaha, you stating that you know *everything* that is happening around the world in this game makes you look like an ignorant knob, you realise that veggie bwoy, right?
Let's praise the world of 48/32 subcompacts! It must be the main option for all endurance-oriented bikes.
I’m riding 34 front to 36 rear for many years. 10 speed drivetrain, dura ace shifters with XTR rear mech (970 series) matches perfectly. At 67 years old I’m not the youngest any more and happy that this gearing works so great.
We need 48/32 subcompact cranks. Like you, I almost never use my highest gears. A subcompact cranks would let us use more of our cassettes regularly, while giving us super low gearing.
Shimano gives you a 48/31 and even a 46/30 option with their GRX cranks. Pair that with an 11-34 cassette and you should be happy, if you can live with an unmatched crank or a full gravel groupset on a road bike.
48/32 is kinda “dream big” thing, wouldn’t mind 😂 If the factories switched to 50/34 at least, it would already be a right step.
They do the massive chainring gear because they want that extra 1% of efficiency of less friction. Pros probably don't even max out their gears
@@SaitekFreak999 don't you need a 16t or lower gap to prevent chain jamming?
@@ZavyalovCycling 48/32 chainrings exist, if you don't mind riding non Shimano cranks. As for going for GRX, you'd also have to change the front derailleur since compared to road groupsets the Q factor is different to allow wider rear stays.
This whole conversation really depends on what sort of mountains a cyclist climbs. What he is suggesting would be silly for someone out there in Kansas (flat terrain).
The idea is not a certain setup, but rather to gear for your terrain. However, I don’t see riders pulling gears like 53-13 or higher even on flats!
@@ZavyalovCycling I once rode 53-11 sprinting on a flat highway at 45km/h. I almost died.
A fruit cart vendor suddenly crossed the street. He was surprised as much as I am. Luckily he was able to turn his cart sideways and I was able to avoid crashing at him. That incident scared my shit out of me. I rode a lot slower after that.
I was trying to find out how fast my legs could go. I didn’t even have clipless pedals and bike shoes then. I can probably go faster now. But I am too afraid to find out to do any personal land speed records for now.
@@iMadrid11you should scout and find a quieter road, if you've got any development projects nearby, try looking around there for wide and smooth, but underpopulated roads.
53-11 is a massive gear for a speed of 45kmph, typically you want to reserve your torque for all but the first three or so kicks, and you should be spinning after that to maintain your speed. Probably pick something much larger like a 53-14 and you might be able to accelerate much more initially and still have the energy to maintain the speed
My lowest gear is 20-38 my highest is 56-11. When I first started racing in 1971 my trainer warned me to avoid the high gears and ride the ratio to keep my cadence as close to 90 as possible and heart rate manageable (we did not have portable heart rate monitors at that time).
Makes the time a little slower at the start, but by the end of the race, still have plenty left in the tank.
Do you run 3X, Lane?
I'm riding 50/34 with 12-34 for many years now (even switching to 12-36 when I go to the Alps). Using Campagnolo Super Record Ergopowers with Shimano XTR via SiftMate, works perfectly, I'm very happy with that.
I have a 2021 Specialized Roubaix and it came with 50 x 34 and cassette 11X 34. I love it. Feel it's perfect for me.
Will note this bike as a smart factory setup example. Thanks for posting!
Robbie McGewan on GCN+ seemed to think he knew what it was. In my youth I used a 13-21 and 52-42. I don't know how I got up the hills. Nowadays I use a 11-28 and 50-34. I get uncomfortable at 40 mph so I don't use my 11-13 cogs even on downhills.
I used to train intervals in my 52 11 up hills until I heard some experts say that low cadence work isn't the best way to train. It's just a constant push and pull with the entire body and at least felt like a good work out.
Perfect analysis. I think what drives it is: 1) ego and 2) American crit cycling. I personally use 50/34, 11-34t and it’s great. Puzzled why Roglic went Xplr when he could’ve gone 46/33, 10-33t with Red.
My factory default setup was 50/34 crank and 11-32 cassette. I changed both of them on my specialised roubaix to 48/32 crank and 11-34 cassette. It’s even better than 1:1. It’s a perfect setup for a heavy guy doing steep climbs. I did all the installations myself - bought tools and components for total amount of less than 300 EUR.
Could you advise who makes the 32 chainring? TIA
I bought Praxis Buzz Road. I’m sure there are others…
It actually looks like the front chainring is smaller than the largest sprocket. I've heard it was a 40. That makes more sense as he could have had a 1:1 ratio with a more standard 2x set up , eg 46/33 and 10/33. For the super steep gradients of up to 22%, the more mechanical advantage the better!
For the normal guy, even a sub compact with a 11-34 cassette (1:1 gear) is still unnecessary big and you will most likely find yourself more often to wish for a lower gear than you miss top-end when you encounter longer steeper climbs. 2 years ago i ditched my shiny dura-ace crank for a 46/30 GRX one, with a 11-36 in the back. 46-11 is still fine up to around 55kph, above that i coast downhill and enjoy the view, but with 30-36 i always have an easy enough gear on hand after a long ride with a bit of bike-packing stuff to get up any incline comfortably.
sure, if you only use the bike as a training machine for 1-2h all out sprints than you dont need the lower gears, and in complete flat terrain you can easily go for the bigger chainrings too, but for more audax and endurance focused rides with all sorts of terrain its nice to have the GRX 2x or similar SRAM setups. the only thing i sometimes miss is the 14 tooth cog on the cassette.
Glad to hear, Digi! Exactly how it feels to me either!
I live in the Alps and pedal at high cadence (93 - 105). My 2 main bikes are geared 46/30 with 10/42 (Sram xg1195) and 50/33 with 9/42 (E*Thirteen XCX). First bike is Bianchi Oltre XR4. Second is Winspace SLC 2.0. Both bikes are 11 speed Di2. Looking at 12 speed but there aren't any suitable cassettes available yet, other than the XPLR 10/44 which might work with a hanger extender on a 2x set up...
I absolutely need the gearing I use to be able to maintain my preferred cadence as soon as the gradient hits 10%.
59 years old and although not super fast am still in the top 3 in my age group for my local climbs : Iseran, Cormet de Roseland, PSB
Thumbs up, Lloyd! Your 59 must have come in a smart way, since you gear up precisely for the riding you do!
I have 30 on the front and 29 in back on my road bike and 30 to 36 on my gravel bike. They are both the same weight. On very steep climbs like 12% or more I am usally faster with the gravel bike with 45mm offroad tires.
So I agree their should be a option for terrain in stores. So you can buy a default bike with 34:36 if it's not flat there you are riding.
I use 14-28 junior cassettes for years. Better chain alignment when riding 32km/h
It really depends. I think Roglic's choice of gears makes sense, when the stage itself was so long as well as the tour and you need to keep your legs fresh for the next day. Amateurs do not race such kind of races so the concern is quite different. I ride a 53-39 and 11-25 cassette and I can spin out on short, steep descents. If you race, at a certain level, 50-34 with 11-30 is somewhat risky because there are many jumps between gears, which can make you spin too much or grind, and you can't jump into a sprint when in a bunch, which moves faster already, as it requires a higher (heavier gear). If anything, keeping an extra cassette around for different terrain is best bang for your buck. If you want to get stronger, you need to be able to push a high gear anyways. My race results improved by changing from 50-34 to 52-36 and now 53-39.
Nice to hear the racing perspective, makes sense! Do you participate in events with lots of climbing or mostly flat with sprint finish?
@@ZavyalovCycling I have done races where the course is mostly flat or hilly, but nothing like 20km long climbs that you see in the tours. Changing the cassette is usually enough as well as losing 2kg of body weight.
Changed my outer chainring for a 42. Im loving it.
I run microshift advent x with a 40t in front and 11-48t. I got it for gravel riding but I spend 90% of the time on the road and it's kind of great. Big cadence jumps are annoying but you just get used to it lol. I can spin at like 90 rpm on some gnarly climbs. Great for z2 training as well. I can stay in z2 on over 10% gradients if my cadence is low enough.
40-11 at 90 rpm gives you ~28 mph or 42 kmh. This is more than enough, true!
I have a SRAM setup with 48/35 and 10-36. My lowest gear is even easier than 1:1, while the top gear is almost equivalent to 53x11. (Disregarding inefficiencies from smaller cogs)
It's a great setup for an amateur, I can spin up all but the steepest climbs at 90+ RPM. And like you say, the top gear gets rarely used, pretty much only on long straight descents where I end up spinning out and am better off just going small and aero and freewheeling. And even for sprinters, the inefficiencies from 10T are irrelevant in a Sprint where it's much more about positioning and timing than a few Watts more.
That being said, on fast rides without steep or very long climbs, I often don't even use the small ring - the lowest gear being 48x36 (1:1.33) then.
I'll probably get a second road bike next year and will build it with all this in mind - one bike for climbing and training (with a ~1:1 lowest gear) and one bike for going fast (with a ~1:1.2-1.3 lowest gear), maybe not even a higher top gear but at least smaller jumps in the cassette.
Thanks for this detailed view! Actually, your setup looks perfect. Yet still longing for another bike? 😀
in my time it was standard 39/53 front and 21/12 rear 8 speed, in nornall ride i used 39 and first 5 gears on rear, on race : 53 and 3.-5. gear on rear, so 14,13 and 12 teeth gears i never used
Wow. Didn't realize his chainring was so small. Thought he had a massive ring on the front with the 10-44 on the back. If I was building a road bike with 1x I would probably aim for 42T, should be more than enough for my ageing legs.
He used it just for climbing, not the full stage.
Also, really hate the new Campy Super Record, but, as they did with EKAR, they killed it with the ratios. 45/29, 10-29t is a really cool set up.
I’ve got two bikes, one is a steel vintage with 53/39 and lowest is 23 on cassette which is fine for a local climb of 4 kilometres with average of 6% gradient and my other bike is a gravel bike which had 50/34 and 32 cassette which I have now changed for a 34 cassette with a shimano 46/30 grx 600 crank, I had to use the 810 grx front derailer as the 105 wouldn’t throw out enough, I’m trying this new set up out this weekend on an 80mile route, it’ll be interesting to see how it performs .
Building a custom bike from scratch is not the expensive option those days. But of course you will have to seek the parts not from the brands.
I don’t need high gear. I don’t spin downhill as I fear the consequences??
I am not sure if for my next bike I should choose 56 chainring with 11x42 and grx di2 or just 54/40 and 11x34 duraace for circuit racing. Right now I have 52/36 and 11/28 and I am not satisfied with both ends of the cassette.
I just swapped my 36 with a 34 inner chainring and everything works perfect 53/34 and 11/34 in the rear. Cheap upgrade
Smart move! Do you run Ultegra?
@@ZavyalovCycling 105Di2 with my old Ultegra crank due to my crank based power meter.
on very steep hill i use on 26" mtb 22-34 gears and it is my power/speed limit, my speed is 3.6km/h or 1 m/s, and if i have less gear ratio i would have to have less speed or more rpm, both are no good
Yes 34x34 which is the typical lower end of road group set gearing from shimano has to much rollout for very steep climbs. Particularly for the vast majority of cyclists who FTP 200 to 300w, even with 34x34 you'll be dying on a climb like the Zoncolan 🥵
More important than ftp on steep grades is power to weight. A one to one ratio should be sufficient for most enthusiasts looking to get good work on the bike. And most ppl train lower cadence rather than spinning
34x34 is not that bad, lots of bikes are coming 36x30 now, even the “climbing” ones 🤪
If one uses a racing triple (52 x 40 x 28) then one can use a cluster in the back that has sensitive, close gear ratios and still get a 1 to 1 low end.
What bike with this setup do you happily own, Mark?
@@ZavyalovCycling I have an old Masi 3V Volumetrica. When I was still racing a bit I had a 53 x 42 x 30 on the front with a 12 - 23 9 speed on the back. I had the same set up on my Cannondale before I got the Masi.
Now that I am an old, slow fart, I have switched to a 52 x 40 x 28 on the front and a 14 - 28 on the rear
Given srams powermeter chainring solutions it doesn't really play to riders that want to change their gearing for each course given the high costs involved.
You're just not riding with fast people I guess. I use the higher gears relatively often, especially in fast group rides. Mayba as much as my lowest gear if I'd take a comparison.
The lowest gear beomes of use, when I ride above 15%, yes. But this is still a special case as well and I guess many people wouldn't need these gears, if they don't live close to steep climbs like that.
Hey, Flur! What gears do you have and what is your normal group cruising speed?
If he used sram that explains why he dropped a chain on the stage
you can switch your RD to XTR and make your cassette 40T
If you ride a circuit where you can predict exactly what gears you are gonna need.. and you can afford a specific setup for that day .. sure.. there's people cycling on fixies so go wild... but in reality .. no. Also Roglic dropped his chain... a chain guide would have helped him to at least 7 maybe 10 more seconds (just in case Geraint was faster than he was now)..now that's an improvement for a small price.
1X as a road setup is still exotic, true, but the idea is just to smartly choose your climbing end!
I use a Rohloff, so there set
I have been using a single 44 chainring + 10-42 11speed since 2017 and now 10-44 12speed (XPLR) and it feels like double chainring and grinding gears are an ancient thing, au pair with cantilevers on a MTB... with the 11speed one there was a bit of a noticeable gap mid cassette but with the 12s it's just fine. I only miss an extra high gear when I'm pushing hard with the fastest guys from the club over 55kmh on the flat, which doesn't happen very often... maybe a couple of minutes once a month. On the other side of the spectrum, I can climb almost everything on the bike over 60rpm, even bikepacking.
Single chainring for racing normal stages is going to take a lot of tweaking, but for these specific stages and general recreative cycling...
I like the Ekar 13s 10-44 gear distribution better and Magura brakes! but mechanical is a big no-no... :S they are launching wireless record now, so give it a year or two
What happens “two minutes a month” is hardly worth loosing the climbing gears, exactly! 👍
Yeah sure, we should choose our gears like Roglič because our family members ecstatically wait for us with second bicycle at the bottom of every climb.
Guy had a 1X chain set up and still dropped his chain. No thanks.
And he won. That stage and the whole thing
@@winbrendan imagine if he wouldn’t have dropped the chain tho! Or imagine if you or I dropped the chain? We’d be out of contention 😂🤣
@@BadTanLines the choice was so good he had time to spare
Think of it in a way that he still won both the stage and the Giro despite the dropped chain 😂
I am sure Roglic does not ride "dura ace' like in your photograph....
Did anyone see if Roglic actually used the 44 sprocket?
Would you say it was a bigger ring?
@@ZavyalovCycling I meant on the back. I think you said he had a 44 as biggest sprocket on back.
@@robinbeckford SRAM offers this XPLR cassette only as 10-44, should you doubt:
www.sram.com/en/sram/models/cs-xg-1271-d1
@@ZavyalovCycling We may be confusing each other here.
Did anyone see if Roglic changed gear onto the biggest rear sprocket during the time trial?
@@robinbeckford Got you now, sorry 😀 Need to rewatch.
Unless people drop the 'this is what the pro's use bruv', cry me a river, I have no sympathy for anyone complaining it's hard uphill. Same as bad, is waiting for them to catch up bouncing away, spinning their 28t chainring and 40t cog on flats on their 1x 'gravel' bulldozer, when the group ride in on the road, not off road, keep that shit for your commute Darren. Rant over.
when you can produce 6 watts per kg for 30 minutes, then go ahead and choose your gears like him
just sponsored by sram......before compact cranks are on the market , shimano try to make moe advertisement für a 3 chain crank in the front, the profis have to ride because of their contracts.......
Bro most bikes come with 50-34. Coming from a flat country this gearing is way too low. Its great when climbing but a 52-36 with a 34 cassette would work great
50/11 is not too low for MOST riders. It's too low for people who want to keep pedaling past about 70-75k/h. MOST riders, particularly on entry and mid level bikes, aren't doing that, but are undergeared for prolonged steep ascents, even at 1:1.
50-11 at 90 rpm is 52kph. Which is reachable normally only on downhills and in racing for the normal guy
@@desmoMarco91 Yup... if you're good enough to need more than 50/11 in flat terrain, you can probably spin faster than 90rpm too, and if you're doing that, you're getting your gear for free because you're a tour pro :)
78 kmh is the record sprint speed by Cav the Missile. How many Cavs are there among us amateurs? 😂 And how often do we SPRINT?
Even with a cog of 12, the 50-t ring gives you ~ 30mph / 48 kmh at 90 rpm. Are there really that many amateur riders capable of keeping such speed for long? 🤪
The answer is, NO. I don't think we can chose/have access to the same GEAR that fuels modern cycling.
While expensive, there's very little the pros use that we can't buy if we have the money.
@@veganpotterthevegan I very much doubt that you know the full scope of "gear" available out there.
@@channul4887 I was in the testing pool for over 15yrs so yeah, I do
@@veganpotterthevegan mwahaha, you stating that you know *everything* that is happening around the world in this game makes you look like an ignorant knob, you realise that veggie bwoy, right?