For the **VW Transporter** (specifically T5 or T6 models), the size of the driveshaft nut at the center of the brake disc is typically **36mm**. However, depending on the specific model year or variant, it can sometimes be **32mm**, but 36mm is more common on many Transporters. To be sure, it’s always a good idea to measure it directly or check the vehicle’s service manual to confirm the correct size for your particular model. Additionally, when replacing the driveshaft, make sure to use a new nut, as these are often single-use due to being torque-to-yield (stretch bolts). Let me know if you need any further assistance!
Thanks for watching! Haha, I totally get it-getting that stub shaft in can be a bit of a challenge! Sometimes it just doesn’t want to cooperate. 😅 Glad you managed to get it done, though! If you ever need more tips or have any questions, feel free to reach out. 👍 #VWTransporter #DriveshaftFix #DIYMechanic
Hi great video is the drive shaft seal on the stub spline, or the bearing part you tried to hammer in. I have a leak at stub part can you advise please I know your busy
The part he was hammering at the stub shaft is the oil seal. It should sit nearly flush, maybe a mm or 2 proud from the gearbox itself. Part number for the seal is 02M301189G. Hope that helps.
I have removed 1970s transporter rear drive shafts and this t5 drive shaft is excessively complicated by comparison. 70s drive shaft removal takes 10 min. removal of 12 allenkey bolts, (6 per each end of the drive shaft) then push drive shaft flange inwards and the shaft drops out. T2 drive shafts never seem to cause problems save for CV joint sometimes clicks and needs replacement but this is rare. Why has VW made this process so complicated with later models? Engine removal, also very simple in T2s. I have recently purchased a T5 TDI with DSG and it worries me that this shaft spline problem may occur requiring such a frustratingly complicated process to replace.
Volkswagen's decision to make the drive shafts and other components of later models like the T5 TDI with DSG more complex compared to earlier models like the T2 can be attributed to several factors, including advancements in technology, safety, performance, and emission standards. Here are some reasons why the process has become more complicated: ### 1. **Improved Performance and Handling** - **Increased Power and Torque:** Modern engines produce more power and torque, necessitating more robust and complex drive shafts to handle these forces effectively. - **Enhanced Suspension Systems:** Improved suspension systems contribute to better handling and ride comfort but also result in more complex driveline components. ### 2. **Safety Standards** - **Crash Safety:** Modern vehicles have to meet stringent crash safety standards. This often requires more complex engineering solutions, including more robust and integrated driveline components. - **Stability Control Systems:** Advanced stability control systems require more sophisticated drive shafts and CV joints to ensure optimal performance and safety. ### 3. **Emission and Efficiency Regulations** - **Emission Controls:** Modern vehicles have to meet strict emission standards. This often involves more complex exhaust and drivetrain systems to reduce emissions effectively. - **Fuel Efficiency:** Efforts to improve fuel efficiency lead to more sophisticated engineering designs, including lightweight and more efficient drive shafts. ### 4. **Technological Advancements** - **Automatic Transmissions and DSG:** The introduction of advanced transmission systems like DSG (Direct-Shift Gearbox) requires more complex driveline components to manage the rapid and smooth gear changes. - **Advanced Materials and Manufacturing:** The use of advanced materials and manufacturing techniques can lead to more complicated designs that are more efficient and durable. ### 5. **Durability and Reliability** - **Longevity of Components:** Modern drive shafts are designed to last longer and handle more stress, which can result in more complex designs. - **Less Frequent Maintenance:** Although modern designs may be more complex, they often require less frequent maintenance compared to older models. ### 6. **User Experience and Comfort** - **Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH):** Improved NVH characteristics in modern vehicles require more sophisticated driveline components to minimize noise and vibration. ### Practical Considerations for T5 Owners While the complexity of modern drive shafts can be daunting, there are steps you can take to mitigate potential issues: - **Regular Maintenance:** Ensure that your T5 is regularly serviced according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to prevent problems. - **Quality Parts:** Use high-quality replacement parts to ensure reliability and longevity. - **Professional Service:** When dealing with complex components, it’s often best to rely on professional mechanics who have experience with modern VW models. In summary, while the complexity of the T5 drive shaft and other components can be frustrating compared to the simpler T2 design, these changes are driven by the need for improved performance, safety, efficiency, and durability. Regular maintenance and using quality parts can help ensure your T5 remains reliable.
Mine makes clicking noise on drivers side ONLY when van is loaded with a lot of weight. Engine was loose put in big bottom engine mount should I do others ?. Can this be my problem engine mounts instead of CV joints ? Cheers an Expat in OZ
The clicking noise you're hearing, especially under load, could indeed be caused by worn engine mounts rather than CV joints, given that the engine was previously loose and you've already replaced the bottom mount. If the other engine mounts are worn or failing, they might allow excessive engine movement, which could cause various noises when the van is heavily loaded or under stress. Here's a breakdown of possibilities: 1. **Engine Mounts**: Since you've already replaced the bottom engine mount, the other mounts (such as the side and top mounts) might also be worn. If they aren't absorbing engine movement properly, it could create noise, especially under load. Replacing the remaining mounts could resolve the issue. 2. **CV Joints**: Clicking noises when turning or accelerating, especially when loaded, are classic signs of CV joint issues. However, if the noise only happens under load and not during turns or accelerations, it's more likely related to engine mounts or another suspension component. 3. **Suspension and Other Factors**: In some cases, suspension components like bushings or control arms can also cause noise when the vehicle is heavily loaded. Since you've already dealt with a loose engine and one mount, it’s worth considering replacing the other mounts to see if that resolves the issue before diving into the CV joints. Let me know if you want more advice on checking the CV joints or other suspension parts!
Hiya, where did you buy the new spline shaft what goes into the box my golf mk5 dsg has the same driveshaft set up i have the new drive shaft but can’t find the spine shaft what goes into the box anywhere
Tightening the stub shaft bolt on a VW Transporter without compressing a spring, especially when using just your hands without a flybar, involves a few key techniques. Here’s a detailed explanation: 1. **Vehicle Stabilization:** Ensure the vehicle is securely lifted and supported. Remove the wheel for clear access to the driveshaft and stub shaft. 2. **Proper Positioning:** Make sure the driveshaft and the stub shaft are properly aligned. Misalignment can make the process more difficult and might require more force. 3. **Use of Manual Force:** Since you’re using your hands without a flybar, leverage and positioning become even more critical. Position yourself in a way that allows you to apply maximum force efficiently. 4. **Tool Selection:** Use a high-quality torque wrench and the correct socket for the stub shaft bolt. Even without additional tools, a torque wrench will help you apply the necessary torque more easily than a regular wrench. 5. **Leverage Techniques:** - **Hand Positioning:** Hold the torque wrench with both hands, placing one hand near the head for stability and the other at the end for maximum leverage. - **Body Positioning:** Use your body weight to assist in applying torque. Position yourself to push down or pull up in a manner that uses gravity to your advantage. 6. **Incremental Tightening:** Tighten the bolt incrementally. Turn the bolt a little at a time, ensuring that each twist brings it closer to the required torque. This gradual approach helps manage any resistance from the spring without needing to compress it. 7. **Locking Mechanism:** If the driveshaft tends to rotate, use a second person to hold the driveshaft steady or use a locking mechanism to prevent rotation. This can be as simple as wedging a sturdy tool between the driveshaft and a non-moving part of the vehicle. 8. **Final Check:** Once the bolt is tightened, double-check the alignment and ensure it meets the torque specification recommended in the vehicle’s service manual. By carefully applying these techniques, you can effectively tighten the stub shaft bolt without compressing the spring, even without the aid of a flybar. OR 1. **Preparation:** Make sure the vehicle is securely lifted and the wheel is removed to provide clear access to the driveshaft and stub shaft. 2. **Stabilize the Driveshaft:** Use a pry bar or a sturdy tool to hold the driveshaft steady. This will prevent it from rotating while you work on the stub shaft bolt. 3. **Use the Right Tools:** A torque wrench and the appropriate socket for the stub shaft bolt are essential. Make sure you have a tool that allows you to apply sufficient torque without the need for compressing any springs. 4. **Proper Alignment:** Align the driveshaft and the stub shaft correctly. This ensures that there is no unnecessary strain on the spring mechanism, allowing you to tighten the bolt without compressing the spring. 5. **Gradual Tightening:** Start tightening the bolt gradually. If you feel resistance due to the spring, slightly adjust the position of the driveshaft or use the pry bar to counteract the spring force. 6. **Torque Specification:** Refer to the vehicle’s service manual for the exact torque specification for the stub shaft bolt. Ensure that you tighten it to the recommended torque. 7. **Double-Check:** Once tightened, double-check the alignment and ensure that everything is secure and in place. By following these steps, you can effectively tighten the stub shaft bolt without having to compress a spring, ensuring a secure and proper fitment.
Thank you for your kind words! We're glad you found the video helpful. We're based in BR13PE. You can find out more about us by googling "Sanu Motors." If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!
A clunking noise when changing gears in your VW Transporter could indeed be related to the driveshaft, but it could also be caused by other drivetrain components. Here's a guide to troubleshoot and replace the driveshaft if it's determined to be the issue: ### 1. **Initial Diagnosis** Before concluding it's the driveshaft, check the following: - **CV Joints (Constant Velocity Joints):** Worn or damaged CV joints can cause clunking sounds when accelerating or changing gears. - **Engine/Transmission Mounts:** Faulty mounts can allow excessive movement, causing a clunk when shifting gears. - **Suspension Components:** Damaged or worn suspension parts can also contribute to clunking sounds. - **Driveshaft Wear:** Look for excessive play in the driveshaft or any noticeable wear and tear. ### 2. **Tools You'll Need:** - Jack and axle stands - Socket set - Torque wrench - Pry bar - WD-40 or penetrating fluid - Driveshaft removal tool (optional) - Replacement driveshaft (if required) ### 3. **Steps for Driveshaft Replacement:** #### **Step 1: Safely Lift the Vehicle** - Use a jack to lift the front of the vehicle and place it securely on axle stands. - Ensure the vehicle is stable before working underneath. #### **Step 2: Remove the Wheel** - Loosen the lug nuts and remove the wheel on the side where the driveshaft needs to be replaced. #### **Step 3: Disconnect the Driveshaft from the Hub** - Locate the driveshaft nut at the center of the hub. - Use a socket and breaker bar to loosen the nut (you may need to spray it with penetrating fluid if it's stuck). - Remove the driveshaft nut. #### **Step 4: Disconnect the Driveshaft from the Transmission** - Locate the inner joint of the driveshaft connected to the transmission. - Some driveshafts have bolts that need to be removed, while others may just pop out using a pry bar. - Be cautious not to damage the transmission seal when prying. #### **Step 5: Remove the Driveshaft** - Carefully pull the driveshaft out from both the hub and the transmission. - If it's difficult to remove, use a driveshaft removal tool or continue prying gently. #### **Step 6: Install the New Driveshaft** - Compare the old and new driveshafts to ensure they match. - Slide the new driveshaft into the hub first, ensuring it fits securely. - Then, connect the inner joint to the transmission. - Torque all bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. #### **Step 7: Reassemble** - Reinstall the driveshaft nut and torque it to spec. - Reattach the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. #### **Step 8: Test Drive** - After completing the replacement, take the vehicle for a test drive to ensure the clunking sound is gone. ### Additional Considerations: - If the clunking noise persists after replacing the driveshaft, further investigation into the gearbox or suspension may be necessary. - Ensure that all bolts and nuts are torqued to the correct specification to avoid any future issues. This procedure should help solve the clunking noise, assuming it's due to the driveshaft. If the issue persists, you may need to check other drivetrain components.
😊 Thank you so much for your support and for being a part of our amazing community! It means the world to us. 🌟 If you’re interested in Sanu Motors branded items like T-shirts, caps, and more, check out our shop at sanumotors.stores. Don't forget to follow us on social media for the latest updates and exclusive deals: Facebook: facebook.com/sanumotors Instagram: instagram.com/sanumotors Twitter: twitter.com/sanumotors Thanks again for being part of our community! 🚗
Sometimes speed comes with practice and the right tools. Efficiency is key when working on jobs like this, but always with care to ensure everything’s done properly. Thanks for watching, and I’m glad you enjoyed the video! 🚗🔧 #VWTransporter #FastFit #DIYMechanic
which Nut size is it at the drive shaft thread at the middle of the break disc? 32?
For the **VW Transporter** (specifically T5 or T6 models), the size of the driveshaft nut at the center of the brake disc is typically **36mm**. However, depending on the specific model year or variant, it can sometimes be **32mm**, but 36mm is more common on many Transporters.
To be sure, it’s always a good idea to measure it directly or check the vehicle’s service manual to confirm the correct size for your particular model. Additionally, when replacing the driveshaft, make sure to use a new nut, as these are often single-use due to being torque-to-yield (stretch bolts).
Let me know if you need any further assistance!
The joys of working on the floor...😊
Nicely done!
Thank you
Great video took me half hour to get stub shaft in lol
Thanks for watching! Haha, I totally get it-getting that stub shaft in can be a bit of a challenge! Sometimes it just doesn’t want to cooperate. 😅 Glad you managed to get it done, though!
If you ever need more tips or have any questions, feel free to reach out. 👍 #VWTransporter #DriveshaftFix #DIYMechanic
Hi great video is the drive shaft seal on the stub spline, or the bearing part you tried to hammer in. I have a leak at stub part can you advise please I know your busy
Please mention time lap. I will check
Thanks
The part he was hammering at the stub shaft is the oil seal. It should sit nearly flush, maybe a mm or 2 proud from the gearbox itself. Part number for the seal is 02M301189G. Hope that helps.
thank you
I have removed 1970s transporter rear drive shafts and this t5 drive shaft is excessively complicated by comparison. 70s drive shaft removal takes 10 min. removal of 12 allenkey bolts, (6 per each end of the drive shaft) then push drive shaft flange inwards and the shaft drops out. T2 drive shafts never seem to cause problems save for CV joint sometimes clicks and needs replacement but this is rare. Why has VW made this process so complicated with later models? Engine removal, also very simple in T2s. I have recently purchased a T5 TDI with DSG and it worries me that this shaft spline problem may occur requiring such a frustratingly complicated process to replace.
Volkswagen's decision to make the drive shafts and other components of later models like the T5 TDI with DSG more complex compared to earlier models like the T2 can be attributed to several factors, including advancements in technology, safety, performance, and emission standards. Here are some reasons why the process has become more complicated:
### 1. **Improved Performance and Handling**
- **Increased Power and Torque:** Modern engines produce more power and torque, necessitating more robust and complex drive shafts to handle these forces effectively.
- **Enhanced Suspension Systems:** Improved suspension systems contribute to better handling and ride comfort but also result in more complex driveline components.
### 2. **Safety Standards**
- **Crash Safety:** Modern vehicles have to meet stringent crash safety standards. This often requires more complex engineering solutions, including more robust and integrated driveline components.
- **Stability Control Systems:** Advanced stability control systems require more sophisticated drive shafts and CV joints to ensure optimal performance and safety.
### 3. **Emission and Efficiency Regulations**
- **Emission Controls:** Modern vehicles have to meet strict emission standards. This often involves more complex exhaust and drivetrain systems to reduce emissions effectively.
- **Fuel Efficiency:** Efforts to improve fuel efficiency lead to more sophisticated engineering designs, including lightweight and more efficient drive shafts.
### 4. **Technological Advancements**
- **Automatic Transmissions and DSG:** The introduction of advanced transmission systems like DSG (Direct-Shift Gearbox) requires more complex driveline components to manage the rapid and smooth gear changes.
- **Advanced Materials and Manufacturing:** The use of advanced materials and manufacturing techniques can lead to more complicated designs that are more efficient and durable.
### 5. **Durability and Reliability**
- **Longevity of Components:** Modern drive shafts are designed to last longer and handle more stress, which can result in more complex designs.
- **Less Frequent Maintenance:** Although modern designs may be more complex, they often require less frequent maintenance compared to older models.
### 6. **User Experience and Comfort**
- **Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH):** Improved NVH characteristics in modern vehicles require more sophisticated driveline components to minimize noise and vibration.
### Practical Considerations for T5 Owners
While the complexity of modern drive shafts can be daunting, there are steps you can take to mitigate potential issues:
- **Regular Maintenance:** Ensure that your T5 is regularly serviced according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to prevent problems.
- **Quality Parts:** Use high-quality replacement parts to ensure reliability and longevity.
- **Professional Service:** When dealing with complex components, it’s often best to rely on professional mechanics who have experience with modern VW models.
In summary, while the complexity of the T5 drive shaft and other components can be frustrating compared to the simpler T2 design, these changes are driven by the need for improved performance, safety, efficiency, and durability. Regular maintenance and using quality parts can help ensure your T5 remains reliable.
Mine makes clicking noise on drivers side ONLY when van is loaded with a lot of weight. Engine was loose put in big bottom engine mount should I do others ?. Can this be my problem engine mounts instead of CV joints ? Cheers an Expat in OZ
The clicking noise you're hearing, especially under load, could indeed be caused by worn engine mounts rather than CV joints, given that the engine was previously loose and you've already replaced the bottom mount. If the other engine mounts are worn or failing, they might allow excessive engine movement, which could cause various noises when the van is heavily loaded or under stress.
Here's a breakdown of possibilities:
1. **Engine Mounts**: Since you've already replaced the bottom engine mount, the other mounts (such as the side and top mounts) might also be worn. If they aren't absorbing engine movement properly, it could create noise, especially under load. Replacing the remaining mounts could resolve the issue.
2. **CV Joints**: Clicking noises when turning or accelerating, especially when loaded, are classic signs of CV joint issues. However, if the noise only happens under load and not during turns or accelerations, it's more likely related to engine mounts or another suspension component.
3. **Suspension and Other Factors**: In some cases, suspension components like bushings or control arms can also cause noise when the vehicle is heavily loaded.
Since you've already dealt with a loose engine and one mount, it’s worth considering replacing the other mounts to see if that resolves the issue before diving into the CV joints.
Let me know if you want more advice on checking the CV joints or other suspension parts!
Hiya, where did you buy the new spline shaft what goes into the box my golf mk5 dsg has the same driveshaft set up i have the new drive shaft but can’t find the spine shaft what goes into the box anywhere
I need your vehicle registration number to find the parts. Please call us during working hours. I will help for find
How did you manage to tighten that stub shaft bolt without compressing a spring?
Tightening the stub shaft bolt on a VW Transporter without compressing a spring, especially when using just your hands without a flybar, involves a few key techniques. Here’s a detailed explanation:
1. **Vehicle Stabilization:** Ensure the vehicle is securely lifted and supported. Remove the wheel for clear access to the driveshaft and stub shaft.
2. **Proper Positioning:** Make sure the driveshaft and the stub shaft are properly aligned. Misalignment can make the process more difficult and might require more force.
3. **Use of Manual Force:** Since you’re using your hands without a flybar, leverage and positioning become even more critical. Position yourself in a way that allows you to apply maximum force efficiently.
4. **Tool Selection:** Use a high-quality torque wrench and the correct socket for the stub shaft bolt. Even without additional tools, a torque wrench will help you apply the necessary torque more easily than a regular wrench.
5. **Leverage Techniques:**
- **Hand Positioning:** Hold the torque wrench with both hands, placing one hand near the head for stability and the other at the end for maximum leverage.
- **Body Positioning:** Use your body weight to assist in applying torque. Position yourself to push down or pull up in a manner that uses gravity to your advantage.
6. **Incremental Tightening:** Tighten the bolt incrementally. Turn the bolt a little at a time, ensuring that each twist brings it closer to the required torque. This gradual approach helps manage any resistance from the spring without needing to compress it.
7. **Locking Mechanism:** If the driveshaft tends to rotate, use a second person to hold the driveshaft steady or use a locking mechanism to prevent rotation. This can be as simple as wedging a sturdy tool between the driveshaft and a non-moving part of the vehicle.
8. **Final Check:** Once the bolt is tightened, double-check the alignment and ensure it meets the torque specification recommended in the vehicle’s service manual.
By carefully applying these techniques, you can effectively tighten the stub shaft bolt without compressing the spring, even without the aid of a flybar.
OR
1. **Preparation:** Make sure the vehicle is securely lifted and the wheel is removed to provide clear access to the driveshaft and stub shaft.
2. **Stabilize the Driveshaft:** Use a pry bar or a sturdy tool to hold the driveshaft steady. This will prevent it from rotating while you work on the stub shaft bolt.
3. **Use the Right Tools:** A torque wrench and the appropriate socket for the stub shaft bolt are essential. Make sure you have a tool that allows you to apply sufficient torque without the need for compressing any springs.
4. **Proper Alignment:** Align the driveshaft and the stub shaft correctly. This ensures that there is no unnecessary strain on the spring mechanism, allowing you to tighten the bolt without compressing the spring.
5. **Gradual Tightening:** Start tightening the bolt gradually. If you feel resistance due to the spring, slightly adjust the position of the driveshaft or use the pry bar to counteract the spring force.
6. **Torque Specification:** Refer to the vehicle’s service manual for the exact torque specification for the stub shaft bolt. Ensure that you tighten it to the recommended torque.
7. **Double-Check:** Once tightened, double-check the alignment and ensure that everything is secure and in place.
By following these steps, you can effectively tighten the stub shaft bolt without having to compress a spring, ensuring a secure and proper fitment.
You are great, you made that look straight forward which I’m sure it isn’t, top job
Where are you based ?
Thank you for your kind words! We're glad you found the video helpful. We're based in BR13PE. You can find out more about us by googling "Sanu Motors." If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!
I get a clunk wen changing gears I presume this will be the problem on my transporter
A clunking noise when changing gears in your VW Transporter could indeed be related to the driveshaft, but it could also be caused by other drivetrain components. Here's a guide to troubleshoot and replace the driveshaft if it's determined to be the issue:
### 1. **Initial Diagnosis**
Before concluding it's the driveshaft, check the following:
- **CV Joints (Constant Velocity Joints):** Worn or damaged CV joints can cause clunking sounds when accelerating or changing gears.
- **Engine/Transmission Mounts:** Faulty mounts can allow excessive movement, causing a clunk when shifting gears.
- **Suspension Components:** Damaged or worn suspension parts can also contribute to clunking sounds.
- **Driveshaft Wear:** Look for excessive play in the driveshaft or any noticeable wear and tear.
### 2. **Tools You'll Need:**
- Jack and axle stands
- Socket set
- Torque wrench
- Pry bar
- WD-40 or penetrating fluid
- Driveshaft removal tool (optional)
- Replacement driveshaft (if required)
### 3. **Steps for Driveshaft Replacement:**
#### **Step 1: Safely Lift the Vehicle**
- Use a jack to lift the front of the vehicle and place it securely on axle stands.
- Ensure the vehicle is stable before working underneath.
#### **Step 2: Remove the Wheel**
- Loosen the lug nuts and remove the wheel on the side where the driveshaft needs to be replaced.
#### **Step 3: Disconnect the Driveshaft from the Hub**
- Locate the driveshaft nut at the center of the hub.
- Use a socket and breaker bar to loosen the nut (you may need to spray it with penetrating fluid if it's stuck).
- Remove the driveshaft nut.
#### **Step 4: Disconnect the Driveshaft from the Transmission**
- Locate the inner joint of the driveshaft connected to the transmission.
- Some driveshafts have bolts that need to be removed, while others may just pop out using a pry bar.
- Be cautious not to damage the transmission seal when prying.
#### **Step 5: Remove the Driveshaft**
- Carefully pull the driveshaft out from both the hub and the transmission.
- If it's difficult to remove, use a driveshaft removal tool or continue prying gently.
#### **Step 6: Install the New Driveshaft**
- Compare the old and new driveshafts to ensure they match.
- Slide the new driveshaft into the hub first, ensuring it fits securely.
- Then, connect the inner joint to the transmission.
- Torque all bolts to the manufacturer's specifications.
#### **Step 7: Reassemble**
- Reinstall the driveshaft nut and torque it to spec.
- Reattach the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.
#### **Step 8: Test Drive**
- After completing the replacement, take the vehicle for a test drive to ensure the clunking sound is gone.
### Additional Considerations:
- If the clunking noise persists after replacing the driveshaft, further investigation into the gearbox or suspension may be necessary.
- Ensure that all bolts and nuts are torqued to the correct specification to avoid any future issues.
This procedure should help solve the clunking noise, assuming it's due to the driveshaft. If the issue persists, you may need to check other drivetrain components.
Why did you not grease the splines before fitting the new drive shaft. Is that not common practice to minimise future wear? Good video btw. Cheers, J
😊 Thank you so much for your support and for being a part of our amazing community! It means the world to us. 🌟
If you’re interested in Sanu Motors branded items like T-shirts, caps, and more, check out our shop at sanumotors.stores.
Don't forget to follow us on social media for the latest updates and exclusive deals:
Facebook: facebook.com/sanumotors
Instagram: instagram.com/sanumotors
Twitter: twitter.com/sanumotors
Thanks again for being part of our community! 🚗
Jeezus talk about fast fit and
Sometimes speed comes with practice and the right tools. Efficiency is key when working on jobs like this, but always with care to ensure everything’s done properly. Thanks for watching, and I’m glad you enjoyed the video! 🚗🔧 #VWTransporter #FastFit #DIYMechanic