Hey Keith, I have watchend many of your videos and just wanted to make a general comment. I have tinkered with boats and other machinery all of my life and am not a bad mechanic and fabricator. I will in no way make any claims to be in your realm of skill and knowledge but I want to thank you for making me a better back yard mechanic and machinist than I would have been without your videos. The best information Your approach to each problem is the best lesson I could learn. Thanks. Tom
Your confidence that you show is inspiring. I've been at that "wall" before and usually think to myself, I'll never be able to fix it! Learn a lot from you Keith. Thanks for your efforts.
I like taper lock pulleys and the jack screws usually make removal easy, but this bearing is looking like fun. Can't wait for Part 2. Prayers for your Dad.
Everybody has loosened bolts in ways that in retrospect may not be the best. A friend of mine was on top of a machine and when the bolt snapped he broke his neck, shoulder and back. What a waste of a good millwright. For that reason I would say when you are cranking hard look at how your body will slip, fall, balance. I prefer to keep the weight on my legs and feet, the stool is a recipe for a medical disaster. Another good example is a mechanic broke his ankle when a bar slipped doing a ball joint. If the foot was secure, would not have happened. Myself, 22 years no stitches, broken bones or eye patches. Thanks for the nice vids, sorry to criticize....I don't want a viewer to get hurt.
Keith good project I was wondering why you were using the torque wrench to see what torque the bolts broke free. I then realized you are trying to get a feel for what was done when it was assembled before. Very smart. Hoping for the best for your Dad.
Enjoyed watching, just like all your videos. I was wondering, was that the customer helping you set the shaft inside with the crane, or did you have to hire someone to do that for you? Looks like an additional concrete slab outside your door there would be a good help. You could then use a cherry picker or roll out work cart.
Thanks Pete, for the note, that is why I was comparing it to a torque chart and mentioning a wet and dry assembly, for that size and thread pitch. It can tell you whether they were torqued or not! Good info for inspections not a hold too as a exact torque reassembly. I'm glad when you guys jump in and point out pacific's to your own experience. ;{)-----
I see you tried the impact first, I rarely need more than a 1/2" impact, but I got a cheap 3/4" a couple years ago, that believe it or not works very well. I have used it to remove many tough 500ft/lb+ nuts.
Sorry to hear about your dad, I was glad to make the trip out to see mine last month and just to touch and talk and give him a hug and kiss! I hope he pulls through and we have a few more laughs together, but I'm good with all that we had and the quality of having it. The last time I talked to him, he asked me if I would mind, if he hung up the paragliding! ;{)-----
Tapered sleeves, oh man that brings back bad memories. They are often a shrink fit, hell to get to move. I have had to cut them off on a lathe before, really tough hard turning, ceramet inserts, sparks flying everywhere. I look forward to your solution.
Re torque wrench comments, I have always used this method in the case a torque spec is not obtainable ie. rod, main, head torque on antique equipment and it is also a preferred method when doing pinion gears which use a collapseable spacer to set preload (and parts are obsolete). Thumbs up to Keith for checking torque prior to finding out there was no literature on the subject. Maybe that's why I never have transmissions and diff's howl after I repair them like the apprentices that air impact everything and then ask after there is a problem.
Keith, I have watch quite a few of your videos, and I always enjoy them. How you checked the torque is just flat out wrong. You never ever break bolts free with a torque wrench, You always measure torque while the nut is turning, never from a fixed position. Not only can you easily ruin a torque wrench, you are getting a very inaccurate reading. You should mark the position of the nut, break it free, then see how much torque is required to bring it back to position. The nut must be turning while you take the reading. Beam style wrenches are best for this, if you use a click style you must loosen the nut and turn it back to position on each attempt.SnapOn actually sold ratcheting click style torque wrenches that had to reverse pawl in them just to prevent gorillas from using the wrench as a breaker bar. You owe your buddy a recalibration.
Its a roller coaster, back in ICU and waiting scan results, maybe know more tomorrow. thanks a whole bunch for the concern and prayers, everyone! ;{)-----
This job your doing reminds me of me rebuilding the rear axles of my Peterbilt. Everything was big and very heavy and torqued very tight. Not to mention the cost of the new hefty torque wrench I had to buy. I enjoy your videos very much. Thanks. George
In the yards we had and use multipliers, this was just a fluke job and not doing enough of this work to validate getting one. I believe you can hurt a torque wrench by adding a cheater bar or by exceeding its max range. ;{)-----
Hey Keith, I made a 66 inch long breaker bar out of 1x2" rectangular tube. Actually, I made atleast a dozen of them. That was back when I was wrenching on VW axle nuts and flywheel gland nuts...you know the deal. Well, one of my Ultra-bars with a 3/4'' and 1/2" drives welded to the ends made it into a issue of Hot VWs Magazine. With a bathroom scale and me 4.5' from the end I could precisely torque up to 800lbs! I'm sure you can visualize the tool.It kicked ass and I sold many at VW events.
Hey Keith. Can you get that monster to your press? If not, I got just what you need. See "DIY Bearing Removal Tool" and fire up your CNC table. Get-R-done.
Cool, thanks for the tip, I know this job is a bit big for my down sizing plan of retirement but thought it would give everyone a glimpse of me handling the whatever in a job like this due to my experience in the field, and pulling this off in the walkway of the shop, is as close as being shipboard as you can get! I will check it out anyhow, that's for sure! ;{)-----
Great comment, I done that, before in the open air outside, thought I'd go a little different route on this one so I have a little less smoke and slag falling on my rubber mats. LOL ;{)-----
Hi Keith, Very glad to see you back !!! Hope you had a good 4th.What I really would like to know,all would like to know is how is your Dad doing ?? Take care.
Watching you try to loosen tho cap-bolts reminded me of my preteen days. In 1957, my dad bought his first NEW car. It was an all-white, '57 Dodge Coronet. Man! It was a beauty. The first time he got a flat tire, he broke a ratchet trying to remove the lug nuts. It wasn't until he called the dealer, that he found out that Dodge had engineered one side with right-hand threads, and, left-hand threads for the other side. Don't ask me why. To this day, I still haven't figured out why.
Sorry to hear that your Dad is back in ICU; perhaps they will find good news - something they can fix and make him better! Must be tough to focus on family, work and videos. Best of luck to your Dad, you and the rest of the Family!
This is a little off topic, hope you don't mind but i've been wondering if you could tell me how wide the base is on your gantry crane and the height. I've been thinking of building one and I like your swivel design. Thanks
Very interesting job. That bearing looks like it's gonna be a PIA. I like the bird's eye view as well. Thanks for posting. Hope your dad gets out of ICU and home soon.
Yes, it has a difference, but close enough, to compare as a reference if needed to have a field, educated, guess to go by. Thanks for bringing that up in your comments, cool! ;{)-----
Any chance you could explain why ? I've taken a few things apart and used a torque wrench to do it, starting low and working up to see what torque the bolts were set to.
Keith. Quick question. Did you use the torque wrench in the beginning to find the torque value that the nuts would loosen at so you would know how much torque to apply when reassembling the jack shaft??
I have removed a few tons of bearings like that , you dont need heat or a puller. You remove the lock nut,then the lock washer. Then place the nut back on leaving .50 mm clearance at the inner race . Then using a lock ring punch,you hlt the nut . The bearing pops loose every time. There should't be a need for new taper sleeve unless the bearing has grabbed . I used to change the lock washer only with a new bearing. i do the nut up and measure the roller to race clearance ,
The customer helped out, I would of used my outside davit if they didn't have the nice rig on their truck. If I ever get to rebuild the shop I plan on a roll up door on that end and will extend the slab out a few feet. ;{)-----
assuming it was properly torqued in the first place, doesn't have damaged, rusted threads, you're mostly right, but over torquing is more common, on higher torque settings, you're supposed to divide the torque by three, and do it in three stages, example, 50-100-150 to get 150 some skip that and just do the 150, which can knurl/strip the threads or warp the part.
On a freshly assembled fastener, usually the torque measured to loosen is some fraction of the torque used to tighten. On a fastener that's been assembled for a long time, I don't see much practicality of measuring loosening torque. Two exceptions I can think of are absurdly low or high loosening torque might help diagnose a cause of failure, or recommend attempted loosening in the opposite direction.
I did it more for just checking that they were in fact torqued by the last guy. I cross reference standard and manufactures recommended torques for the reassembly. ;{)-----
Most torque wrenches are meant to be able to torque left hand fasteners as well. I think the problem lies in the use of the torque wrench in any direction when not actually torquing something as it is just extra wear when it is not a smooth, even pull or especially when exceeding the highest torque increment the wrench is designed for. In an emergency need of leverage, I would not hesitate to use a 1000ftlb torque wrench to smoothly and steadily apply 800ftlbs to loosen a fastener.
"I'm not able, to really break that loose." - I'm going to sleep on that! Any chance you could add say, three jacks to push the inner race on the other side to your puller?
if you want an impact wrench that will remove any bolt.....get the thunder gun !!!!!!! decent price from sears on line and PLENTY of ass .......no kidding!!!!!! i've had one for 15 yrs. and have NEVER had a problem and never had to have it serviced !!!! always out performs any gun ....snap on...mac....matco !!!! you can see it's performance on you tube /thunder gun !!! AWESOME TOOL !!!!! love your videos !!!!
It looks like there are 24 v belts. It's damn difficult to run that many v-belts in a row, even if they are matched length set (and expensive) they will stretch at different rates. Has the customer had trouble with belts jumping and knocking the others loose ? I've seen conversions to cogged belts in different applications to avoid that sort of thing.
They're from Torrington Connecticut in the states,they did have a subsidiary in the UK at one point but it is and always was a US based company with strong ties to CT.
hi keith, not trying to be a smart++s here. the torque needed to loosen a bolt is way below the torque applied and a lot of variables play into this and for inexperienced people this can lead to under-tightened bolted joints. to prove this you can torque a connecting rod bolt and measure bolt elongation (which is almost the only way to test for real tightening force) then loosen the bolt, torque recorded and measure again. regards. Pete
Eventually, "I chowed out" a clearance for a Harbor Fr.t 3/4" drive ratchet and added some "webs" (to displace the stress). Yeah! a 5' long ratchet!. No braking 1/2" drives with a shop jack pipe handle (cheater bar) syndrome. I gave that one away to a friend who relined RV brakes. He blew a nut when he first saw it. Yeah man, it was the "Cro-Magnum Bar"...bust any nut, foreign or domestic. No air line necessary!
I add up my hours, subtract the wasted time, add in a few extra details, or throw in some material, for eating up a few minutes here and there, moving the camera around, to create videos for TH-cam, and multiply that by my shop rate. ;{)-----
How do you determine a $ price for the customer for a job like this? Looks like one of those jobs that can take four times longer than you think it's going to take. And then some. We've all been there!
Kieth, I have had more success with the tapered bearing adaptors using a end capped hollow bar to go over the shaft and butt up to the nut like you had with the punch. Doing this allows you to use a more powerful hammer blow. On a shaft that size typically a 20lb sledge hammer. No need to appologise for the English. You yanks have been mangling the English language for 200 years so I suppose some was bound to rub off. :) Best wished for your Father. Mine passed away earlier this tear.
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Hey Keith, I have watchend many of your videos and just wanted to make a general comment. I have tinkered with boats and other machinery all of my life and am not a bad mechanic and fabricator. I will in no way make any claims to be in your realm of skill and knowledge but I want to thank you for making me a better back yard mechanic and machinist than I would have been without your videos. The best information Your approach to each problem is the best lesson I could learn. Thanks. Tom
Your confidence that you show is inspiring. I've been at that "wall" before and usually think to myself, I'll never be able to fix it! Learn a lot from you Keith. Thanks for your efforts.
I like taper lock pulleys and the jack screws usually make removal easy, but this bearing is looking like fun. Can't wait for Part 2. Prayers for your Dad.
Unusual project, but very interesting. The birds-eye view and dual images are really helpful. Thanks for making all the efforts to share this with us.
Everybody has loosened bolts in ways that in retrospect may not be the best. A friend of mine was on top of a machine and when the bolt snapped he broke his neck, shoulder and back. What a waste of a good millwright. For that reason I would say when you are cranking hard look at how your body will slip, fall, balance. I prefer to keep the weight on my legs and feet, the stool is a recipe for a medical disaster. Another good example is a mechanic broke his ankle when a bar slipped doing a ball joint. If the foot was secure, would not have happened. Myself, 22 years no stitches, broken bones or eye patches. Thanks for the nice vids, sorry to criticize....I don't want a viewer to get hurt.
Keith good project I was wondering why you were using the torque wrench to see what torque the bolts broke free. I then realized you are trying to get a feel for what was done when it was assembled before. Very smart.
Hoping for the best for your Dad.
Enjoyed watching, just like all your videos. I was wondering, was that the customer helping you set the shaft inside with the crane, or did you have to hire someone to do that for you? Looks like an additional concrete slab outside your door there would be a good help. You could then use a cherry picker or roll out work cart.
Thanks Pete, for the note, that is why I was comparing it to a torque chart and mentioning a wet and dry assembly, for that size and thread pitch. It can tell you whether they were torqued or not! Good info for inspections not a hold too as a exact torque reassembly. I'm glad when you guys jump in and point out pacific's to your own experience. ;{)-----
Thanks Bruce, will be publishing the rest of the tear down throughout the weekend, next week will be the reassembly! Cheers, everyone! ;{)-----
I see you tried the impact first, I rarely need more than a 1/2" impact, but I got a cheap 3/4" a couple years ago, that believe it or not works very well. I have used it to remove many tough 500ft/lb+ nuts.
Nice to see you back on the air. Thanks for the detailed explaination. Maybe too much for some, but not for me.
Sorry to hear about your dad, I was glad to make the trip out to see mine last month and just to touch and talk and give him a hug and kiss! I hope he pulls through and we have a few more laughs together, but I'm good with all that we had and the quality of having it. The last time I talked to him, he asked me if I would mind, if he hung up the paragliding! ;{)-----
Tapered sleeves, oh man that brings back bad memories. They are often a shrink fit, hell to get to move. I have had to cut them off on a lathe before, really tough hard turning, ceramet inserts, sparks flying everywhere. I look forward to your solution.
Re torque wrench comments, I have always used this method in the case a torque spec is not obtainable ie. rod, main, head torque on antique equipment and it is also a preferred method when doing pinion gears which use a collapseable spacer to set preload (and parts are obsolete). Thumbs up to Keith for checking torque prior to finding out there was no literature on the subject. Maybe that's why I never have transmissions and diff's howl after I repair them like the apprentices that air impact everything and then ask after there is a problem.
I just wonder how all the know it all's torque something with a left hand thread ;)
As much healing, warmth and love as I can muster. All the best to you and yours Keith.
Keith, I have watch quite a few of your videos, and I always enjoy them.
How you checked the torque is just flat out wrong.
You never ever break bolts free with a torque wrench,
You always measure torque while the nut is turning, never from a fixed position.
Not only can you easily ruin a torque wrench, you are getting a very inaccurate reading.
You should mark the position of the nut, break it free, then see how much torque is required to bring it back to position. The nut must be turning while you take the reading. Beam style wrenches are best for this, if you use a click style you must loosen the nut and turn it back to position on each attempt.SnapOn actually sold ratcheting click style torque wrenches that had to reverse pawl in them just to prevent gorillas from using the wrench as a breaker bar. You owe your buddy a recalibration.
Its a roller coaster, back in ICU and waiting scan results, maybe know more tomorrow. thanks a whole bunch for the concern and prayers, everyone! ;{)-----
This job your doing reminds me of me rebuilding the rear axles of my Peterbilt. Everything was big and very heavy and torqued very tight. Not to mention the cost of the new hefty torque wrench I had to buy. I enjoy your videos very much.
Thanks.
George
Hi Keith,
. . . 180. . .190. . .240. . . This is when I would begin to think maybe they have left-hand threads! wow.
In the yards we had and use multipliers, this was just a fluke job and not doing enough of this work to validate getting one. I believe you can hurt a torque wrench by adding a cheater bar or by exceeding its max range. ;{)-----
Hey Keith, I made a 66 inch long breaker bar out of 1x2" rectangular tube. Actually, I made atleast a dozen of them. That was back when I was wrenching on VW axle nuts and flywheel gland nuts...you know the deal. Well, one of my Ultra-bars with a 3/4'' and 1/2" drives welded to the ends made it into a issue of Hot VWs Magazine. With a bathroom scale and me 4.5' from the end I could precisely torque up to 800lbs! I'm sure you can visualize the tool.It kicked ass and I sold many at VW events.
Good to see you back in the shop Keith! Nothing like working on a small project!!!
Good luck!!
Thanks for showing us this job thus far. Hope it is better news about your Dad.
Keith are those caps backwards the dowl and casting guide lines up I was wondering if these were turned around .?
Hey Keith. Can you get that monster to your press? If not, I got just what you need. See "DIY Bearing Removal Tool" and fire up your CNC table. Get-R-done.
Cool, thanks for the tip, I know this job is a bit big for my down sizing plan of retirement but thought it would give everyone a glimpse of me handling the whatever in a job like this due to my experience in the field, and pulling this off in the walkway of the shop, is as close as being shipboard as you can get! I will check it out anyhow, that's for sure! ;{)-----
I did a double take on that after your comment, but the dowels are both off to one or the same side and the ears are for the removal. ;{)-----
Great comment, I done that, before in the open air outside, thought I'd go a little different route on this one so I have a little less smoke and slag falling on my rubber mats. LOL ;{)-----
Hi
Kieth
Nice to have you back
Looks like a job for the torch
Hi Keith,
Very glad to see you back !!! Hope you had a good 4th.What I really would like to know,all would like to know is how is your Dad doing ?? Take care.
Thats the sound of three happy chipmunks when the part is safe inside at 3:13
Watching you try to loosen tho cap-bolts reminded me of my preteen days. In 1957, my dad bought his first NEW car. It was an all-white, '57 Dodge Coronet. Man! It was a beauty. The first time he got a flat tire, he broke a ratchet trying to remove the lug nuts. It wasn't until he called the dealer, that he found out that Dodge had engineered one side with right-hand threads, and, left-hand threads for the other side. Don't ask me why. To this day, I still haven't figured out why.
Sorry to hear that your Dad is back in ICU; perhaps they will find good news - something they can fix and make him better! Must be tough to focus on family, work and videos. Best of luck to your Dad,
you and the rest of the Family!
I am not keen of the torque wrench loosening either. I question if it provides you with useful information.
Another great video!
Thanks for the reminder!
Hey, that's a good idea! I hate feeling that shock in my arm, sometimes it feels like it's gonna break it!
Hi Tom, thanks for the comment! ;{)-----
This is a little off topic, hope you don't mind but i've been wondering if you could tell me how wide the base is on your gantry crane and the height. I've been thinking of building one and I like your swivel design. Thanks
Very interesting job. That bearing looks like it's gonna be a PIA. I like the bird's eye view as well. Thanks for posting. Hope your dad gets out of ICU and home soon.
Yes, it has a difference, but close enough, to compare as a reference if needed to have a field, educated, guess to go by. Thanks for bringing that up in your comments, cool! ;{)-----
A cliffhanger ending! Good to see you back Keith.
Any chance you could explain why ? I've taken a few things apart and used a torque wrench to do it, starting low and working up to see what torque the bolts were set to.
Keith. Quick question. Did you use the torque wrench in the beginning to find the torque value that the nuts would loosen at so you would know how much torque to apply when reassembling the jack shaft??
Hey Keith, Happy Fourth to you and your family, Hope your dad pulls through.
Just wanted to say thanks for the vid's you post.
John
Keith I have worked on a lot of bearings like that when I worked in maintance shop at my plant those taper locks can be a pain to deal with.
Thanks for the comment, like a cliff hanger. Stay tune, part four is going to be published tonight! ;{)-----
great job Keith, nice to see you back on the work
Welcome back Mr. Keith, always nice seeing a new video from you, missed you! :) Great work as always, seems very interesting.
I have removed a few tons of bearings like that , you dont need heat or a puller. You remove the lock nut,then the lock washer. Then place the nut back on leaving .50 mm clearance at the inner race . Then using a lock ring punch,you hlt the nut . The bearing pops loose every time. There should't be a need for new taper sleeve unless the bearing has grabbed . I used to change the lock washer only with a new bearing. i do the nut up and measure the roller to race clearance ,
The customer helped out, I would of used my outside davit if they didn't have the nice rig on their truck. If I ever get to rebuild the shop I plan on a roll up door on that end and will extend the slab out a few feet. ;{)-----
Thanks for posting this! I always learn something from your work.
assuming it was properly torqued in the first place, doesn't have damaged, rusted threads, you're mostly right, but over torquing is more common, on higher torque settings, you're supposed to divide the torque by three, and do it in three stages, example, 50-100-150 to get 150 some skip that and just do the 150, which can knurl/strip the threads or warp the part.
Dad's back in ICU and waiting for the scan results...
On a freshly assembled fastener, usually the torque measured to loosen is some fraction of the torque used to tighten. On a fastener that's been assembled for a long time, I don't see much practicality of measuring loosening torque. Two exceptions I can think of are absurdly low or high loosening torque might help diagnose a cause of failure, or recommend attempted loosening in the opposite direction.
Good to see you back in the action!
keith is that rubber coupling a vulcan coupling if so with that much play coupling might be damaged
I did it more for just checking that they were in fact torqued by the last guy. I cross reference standard and manufactures recommended torques for the reassembly. ;{)-----
Спасибо, что остаёшься с нами. С нетерпением жду следующий эпизод
Most torque wrenches are meant to be able to torque left hand fasteners as well. I think the problem lies in the use of the torque wrench in any direction when not actually torquing something as it is just extra wear when it is not a smooth, even pull or especially when exceeding the highest torque increment the wrench is designed for. In an emergency need of leverage, I would not hesitate to use a 1000ftlb torque wrench to smoothly and steadily apply 800ftlbs to loosen a fastener.
Thanks, Two minutes ago I just got the word my dad is back in ICU for the third time. We will here about the new scans during the weekend! ;{)-----
isn't break-away torque usually a certain percentage over the actual installation torque?
Thanks for the comment! ;{)-----
"I'm not able, to really break that loose." - I'm going to sleep on that!
Any chance you could add say, three jacks to push the inner race on the other side to your puller?
so good to see you back
if you want an impact wrench that will remove any bolt.....get the thunder gun !!!!!!! decent price from sears on line and PLENTY of ass .......no kidding!!!!!! i've had one for 15 yrs. and have NEVER had a problem and never had to have it serviced !!!! always out performs any gun ....snap on...mac....matco !!!! you can see it's performance on you tube /thunder gun !!! AWESOME TOOL !!!!! love your videos !!!!
Center to center on the casters is 36" and the height to the bottom of the I beam is 7.5' ;{)-----
next time try and heat the threaded rod in between the driver nut and the axle , it might of expanded a bit to pop that taper
Love the new camera setup.
Hi Joe, thanks for thoughts on my dad! Ya, in the right atmosphere, I have hot wrenched everything off before also!
;{)-----
It looks like there are 24 v belts.
It's damn difficult to run that many v-belts in a row, even if they are matched length set (and expensive) they will stretch at different rates.
Has the customer had trouble with belts jumping and knocking the others loose ?
I've seen conversions to cogged belts in different applications to avoid that sort of thing.
i noticed torringtons on them bearing casing they used to based in darlington in the uk
They're from Torrington Connecticut in the states,they did have a subsidiary in the UK at one point but it is and always was a US based company with strong ties to CT.
hi keith, not trying to be a smart++s here. the torque needed to loosen a bolt is way below the torque applied and a lot of variables play into this and for inexperienced people this can lead to under-tightened bolted joints. to prove this you can torque a connecting rod bolt and measure bolt elongation (which is almost the only way to test for real tightening force) then loosen the bolt, torque recorded and measure again. regards. Pete
Come on Keith YOU CAN DO IT !!!!!!! You can do anything mate.. Oh and please tell me your Dad is doing well...
You'll see it get in the press, in the next couple videos! ;{)-----
Loving the picture in picture video editing. Keep it coming like that!
Eventually, "I chowed out" a clearance for a Harbor Fr.t 3/4" drive ratchet and added some "webs" (to displace the stress). Yeah! a 5' long ratchet!. No braking 1/2" drives with a shop jack pipe handle (cheater bar) syndrome. I gave that one away to a friend who relined RV brakes. He blew a nut when he first saw it. Yeah man, it was the "Cro-Magnum Bar"...bust any nut, foreign or domestic. No air line necessary!
@10:00 Glad to see I am not the only one that chases steel stamps across the shop..
I add up my hours, subtract the wasted time, add in a few extra details, or throw in some material, for eating up a few minutes here and there, moving the camera around, to create videos for TH-cam, and multiply that by my shop rate. ;{)-----
Excellent feed, with your comment! and there might of been enough room to push off a plate against the sheeve.
;{)-----
They have supplied all new components including the new rubber flex ring. ;{)-----
How do you determine a $ price for the customer for a job like this? Looks like one of those jobs that can take four times longer than you think it's going to take. And then some. We've all been there!
You forgot he music at the "bringing it in scene"!
As I cannot paste links, search for "Benny Hill Theme 10 hours" ;-)
it takes more torque to remove a bolt than it does to seat it at the proper torque
Frank Gorman
air tool repair specialist
An Interesting Item to see Ilike your Magic Hammer I want one of those !!! Scare it apart
Cut the outer race off (torch or plasma), grind the inner race thin on top, and hit it with a cold chisel. Pop goes the weasel...
For once, a reasonably well taken care of machinery part! : )) Wishing your father well.
digging the multi-view video!
Your video are soooo freaking addictive !
Try an impact hammer on the bearing.
Yes there have been a couple times that I thought it would happen! ;{)-----
Getting it through the door reminded me of a simian and a coconut attempting to reach conjugal bliss,..:>))
Tom
PP? ,Vista, CA
...
Kieth, I have had more success with the tapered bearing adaptors using a end capped hollow bar to go over the shaft and butt up to the nut like you had with the punch. Doing this allows you to use a more powerful hammer blow. On a shaft that size typically a 20lb sledge hammer.
No need to appologise for the English. You yanks have been mangling the English language for 200 years so I suppose some was bound to rub off. :)
Best wished for your Father. Mine passed away earlier this tear.
Pulling on the wrench that hard after it clicks. Man, i hope you dont use that one for tightening important parts.
Aww man, don't end on a cliffhanger like that!
You need some bigger tools for that bearing.
I have to disagree with you using the torque wench to break those bolt loose
yea ..you gota do something to keep you sane
im pretty sure your not suppose to break bolts lose using a torque wrench...
نعم الان نتابعك ونرى جديدك احسنت وشكرا
Cool! never give up, never give in! LOL ;{)-----