This was really an excellent series. There were so many things to learn from it. Thanks for all of your efforts to explain how and why you do things the way you do them.
Great series,I did skim through a few videos but not much.But what I wanted to say is the way you tackled this shows that you dont need 10 guys and a ton of massive equipment to handle a large job.You proved that this is well within a lot of peoples reach if they needed to or desired to do so.
Wow, I watched this over the course of two days and am now exhausted...the knowledge of an old timer and the work capacity of a twenty year old. Thanks for sharing this job, Keith!
That has been a most interesting set of videos.I was unaware of the differences when torquing dry v. oiled bolts etc. Thanks for taking the time and trouble to show us.
Hi Keith I once had a similar job that used about a dozen 3/4 allen screws.but mine were rusty I made it easier on myself by using my ratchet box wrench and a short allen stub to speed up the process of installation and removal . it worked so well I cut a stub for each wrench and kept them handy for the next time.
Sir you are amazing...you should have been a teacher...Your videos are entertaining and educational...Don't ever stop making them....Thanks for sharing your experience!!!
Hi Keith Think I noticed that on the bearing outer ring, when taken apart there was a blob of engineers blue (I suppose it would visually tell tale any rotation in the housing) then of cause noticed the supplied grease was blue. Anyway it set me thinking that to check bearing fits, engineers blue would be a jolly good idea. Thanks for all the videos, cheers Keith.
Very cool. I'm surprised you can handle such heavy assemblies in such a small shop with an employee count of one! As always thank you for taking the time to share with us!!!
They have crews for paint and clean ups, heck they steam cleaned it for me before bring it over. I had to go through town meetings and prove my artistic craft, to get special permission to have my shop on main street. No oils, working on autos, sand blasting & painting booths etc. I can hand paint and small personal jobs like anyone at there own home. Most the construction company's here on the cape have there own paint shop. Thanks for the comment ;{)-----
I have it ready for all times just forget to get it out, most of the time. It was the question of how much the shaft weighted in the tear down that reminded me to use it! Thanks again. ;{)-----
Excellent job. It really makes a whole lot of difference from car bolts to truck bolts and heavy machinery. And things can go bigger into the railway, big ships, bridges, etc. I remember wondering at a BIG bolt and nut that was tighten with a 2m long open end wrench and the bolt was hollow for a glow stick to heat the bolt. Around 400mm between flats with a 50kg nut. (It was in a lab that tests buckling applied to a train rail)
Cool Thanks for the comment, never hesitate! My days are limited in even wanting to continue to do this kind of work. LOL My local friend also offered me the use of one next time if that happens. ;{)-----
brilliant movie keith , wot you need is a nice bench to do work on !! saves the poor ol knees !! ive got this soild cast-iron 10ft x 4ft & weighs about 2.5 ton !! boy does that save me back !! & nobody can just borrow it !!
Good job Keith! as always you find a way to get jobs done even when the situation is not ideal for your shop! Keep on repairing America one project at a time!!!
There is a big lumber mill right up the street and they have a tub grinder. What a monster. They feed to produce from the grinder into their cogen plant, pays some of the power bill. Tub grinders are monsters for sure, you ever been around when one tosses a moving part? They shoot off like bullets, but at least they go up!
Keith I like your torquing technique. I've seen a lot of techs just wail away and click the wrench six times per bolt. Most don't realize that the wrench should click while the bolt is turning. Also while you didn't speak about set/seizure of a bolt I did notice you allow for it with wrench movements. Exception being in the final torquing of the coupler where you tried to go from 150 to 175. This jump is too close and the torque needed to get the bolt moving exceeded the wrench setting.
Stupid question I'm sure but does that rubber coupling transfer the torque from the engine to the shaft? I couldn't see any other obvious way of connecting the shaft to the engine. I assume the coupling is rubber to damp vibrations from the engine?
Hi, just a couple of handy hints about this job. Ive done many a similar job on various chippers and wood processing equipment at the plywood factory when I worked there for 25 years. That labrynth seal would work ok if it was firmly attached to the shaft, pinning, glueing with industrial epoxy, Loctite type products or even a couple of small grubscrews would help it to do its job, also the amount of grease you put in the bearing was way too little. for a fast running shaft in clean conditions you used the correct amount. in a filthy dusty wet extreme environment like a tub grinder you want to at least half fill the bearing housing. probably even a bit more. if it is a bit overfull, it will spit out what it doesnt want, along with keeping out any rubbish thats trying to work its way in. another handy hint is to use what are called forsheeda vee rings. They cost a few cents each They are rubber seals designed to be a snug fit over the shaft you are using and they have a flexible lip that will happily run on the outside of a bearing housing, such as you were using as long as there is some lubrication like grease on them. Some electric motors come with them already fitted to the output shaft. i found in extreme environments that sometimes you can slip several of the vee rings onto a shaft, and as they wore out or got damaged, you could simply slide another vee ring in to create a fairly decent seal on the outside of the housing. We had many bearings working in wet , and dusty dirty environments and the vee rings along with excessive greasing prolonged bearing life considerably in many situations. Yes I know too much grease can cause overheating in some instances, but its sometimes a tradeoff as to what works and what doesnt. Sometimes a change to a semi fluid grease did the trick
Keith did bearing spec. sheet say anything about clearance between roller and race, the taper bushing will change clearance depends on how tight you you make it.
I watched them all, that lets you know how I regard your work. One comment though (not a criticism). I might have degreased, then wirebrushed, then primed and painted. You've renewed the machine, but for a low cost could have improved the rust resistance and secondarily the appearance; but I guess it would take several centuries to rust through! You must have decided against paint, wonder why?
When in doubt about bolts - like the bearing block cover fasteners, I'll torque to the Grade 5 spec., or buy new known bolts if things are more critical...
Hi keith...Well done, I bet you where glad to see the end of that one!!. After watching many of your video's (which I could do all day,) can i make a suggestion? I'd love to see a short video about how you've treated yourself to a better floor!....Im thinking something along the lines of a granular rubber type material which could be tiles or wet poured...YOUR KNEES DESERVE IT!!. ;-D
The system of design tolerances allows multiple pieces of an assembly to be manufactured all over the world and still fit together. All the designer needs to do is make sure all of the different tolerances will work together. Boeing builds airplanes that way and sometimes they get bit.
I hesitated to post this. I know you get more comments and emails than time allows. Plus, I am sure you know about torque multiplier wrenches anyway. On ebay are several torque multipliers. Right now there is a Wright Tool X4 wrench listed for $125 plus shipping. BTW, for just plain brute force, the truck lug nut tool has a 1:58 gear box. Slow, but effective for breaking loose stuck hardware. (Or breaking the bolt if you've used up your luck for the day.)
big iron, the pounding those shafts take is unbelievable, these tub grinders run stumps with stones, metal and anything including dirt....the engine probably makes full hp when grinding.. very hard work bf.
I kind of felt bad for you having to hunch over that thing and work on it on the floor. I suppose with a huge assembly like that you have to work on it right inside the door. BTW, I got about 310 lbs for the shaft. I figure that out all the time at work. Circle area X the length is the volume of the shaft X the density of steel (.284 lbs/in^3). It's always a good idea to know how much a huge piece of material is before you lift it so you aren't exceeding the capacity of lifting equipment.
Hi Keith, another great series but my wife is not happy as she thinks that I am spending more time with you than with her. She claims that I might have a 'Man Crush' :) Just one question, what is hot wrenching that you refer to in the last video?
Hot wrenching means to burn the nut off the bolt by means of the cutting torch, some of the time, done without damage to the bolt threads. It also means to heat up a nut cherry red and break it's grip on the threads of the stud or bolt while it has expanded or after it returns to normal room temperature again. ;{)------
Many a young bloke today would say, send it back to the company that built the machine only they would have the expertise to do a repair like this. It would be beyond their ability...Great set of videos, thanks Keith
I realize this is an old video, but why wouldn't you clean everything up and then repaint it so the customer sees an amazing transformation when they come to pick it up. I see you finish so many projects that look really bad with their rusted old finish on them yet. I would hire somebody to clean everything up and repaint things to make a better customer relationship if you are not into such things. I couldn't possibly reassembly rusted and paint worn items like that myself. JMHO
PS Get yourself a decent table to work on when you are doing jobs like this!!! Even when you were pulling up to use your torque wrench made me cringe. Its WAY easier to push down.
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
This was really an excellent series. There were so many things to learn from it. Thanks for all of your efforts to explain how and why you do things the way you do them.
Great series,I did skim through a few videos but not much.But what I wanted to say is the way you tackled this shows that you dont need 10 guys and a ton of massive equipment to handle a large job.You proved that this is well within a lot of peoples reach if they needed to or desired to do so.
Wow, I watched this over the course of two days and am now exhausted...the knowledge of an old timer and the work capacity of a twenty year old. Thanks for sharing this job, Keith!
That has been a most interesting set of videos.I was unaware of the differences when torquing dry v. oiled bolts etc. Thanks for taking the time and trouble to show us.
Great video series, Keith. We all appreciate your sharing what you do and how you do it.
Hi Keith I once had a similar job that used about a dozen 3/4 allen screws.but mine were rusty I made it easier on myself by using my ratchet box wrench and a short allen stub to speed up the process of installation and removal . it worked so well I cut a stub for each wrench and kept them handy for the next time.
Sir you are amazing...you should have been a teacher...Your videos are entertaining and educational...Don't ever stop making them....Thanks for sharing your experience!!!
Hi Keith
Think I noticed that on the bearing outer ring, when taken apart there was a blob of engineers blue (I suppose it would visually tell tale any rotation in the housing) then of cause noticed the supplied grease was blue. Anyway it set me thinking that to check bearing fits, engineers blue would be a jolly good idea. Thanks for all the videos, cheers Keith.
Very cool. I'm surprised you can handle such heavy assemblies in such a small shop with an employee count of one! As always thank you for taking the time to share with us!!!
They have crews for paint and clean ups, heck they steam cleaned it for me before bring it over. I had to go through town meetings and prove my artistic craft, to get special permission to have my shop on main street. No oils, working on autos, sand blasting & painting booths etc. I can hand paint and small personal jobs like anyone at there own home. Most the construction company's here on the cape have there own paint shop. Thanks for the comment ;{)-----
I have it ready for all times just forget to get it out, most of the time. It was the question of how much the shaft weighted in the tear down that reminded me to use it! Thanks again. ;{)-----
Excellent job.
It really makes a whole lot of difference from car bolts to truck bolts and heavy machinery. And things can go bigger into the railway, big ships, bridges, etc.
I remember wondering at a BIG bolt and nut that was tighten with a 2m long open end wrench and the bolt was hollow for a glow stick to heat the bolt. Around 400mm between flats with a 50kg nut. (It was in a lab that tests buckling applied to a train rail)
Another great video series I enjoyed every episode and I learned something new Thanks for the effort you put into all the videos
Cool Thanks for the comment, never hesitate! My days are limited in even wanting to continue to do this kind of work. LOL My local friend also offered me the use of one next time if that happens. ;{)-----
Thanks Keith, for another great set of videos! Do you have a guess on the total weight of the assembly?
Thanks!
Jeff
brilliant movie keith , wot you need is a nice bench to do work on !!
saves the poor ol knees !! ive got this soild cast-iron 10ft x 4ft & weighs about
2.5 ton !! boy does that save me back !! & nobody can just borrow it !!
Good job Keith! as always you find a way to get jobs done even when the situation is not ideal for your shop! Keep on repairing America one project at a time!!!
There is a big lumber mill right up the street and they have a tub grinder. What a monster. They feed to produce from the grinder into their cogen plant, pays some of the power bill. Tub grinders are monsters for sure, you ever been around when one tosses a moving part? They shoot off like bullets, but at least they go up!
Keith I like your torquing technique. I've seen a lot of techs just wail away and click the wrench six times per bolt. Most don't realize that the wrench should click while the bolt is turning.
Also while you didn't speak about set/seizure of a bolt I did notice you allow for it with wrench movements. Exception being in the final torquing of the coupler where you tried to go from 150 to 175. This jump is too close and the torque needed to get the bolt moving exceeded the wrench setting.
Great project Keith. Nice work. Thanks for the series, very informative.
I really enjoyed the whole series Keith but I have one question, did you bolt that balance weight back onto that sheave?
Keith another great video series.thanks for all that you put into making the videos
Thanks Keith, great set of videos - I have learnt something new, keep up the good work Sir.
That is on HEAVY chunk of rotating steel. Thank you for the videos. Loved the T- shirt it fits great.
Glad to see the scale is useful! Great job as always Keith.
Thanks for your comment! ;{)-----
What is the hole in the top of the bearing housings(right in the center)?
You are right, always double check before freezing those those final adjustment.
Another great series of vids Keith. Thanks for sharing.
Stupid question I'm sure but does that rubber coupling transfer the torque from the engine to the shaft? I couldn't see any other obvious way of connecting the shaft to the engine. I assume the coupling is rubber to damp vibrations from the engine?
Hi, just a couple of handy hints about this job. Ive done many a similar job on various chippers and wood processing equipment at the plywood factory when I worked there for 25 years. That labrynth seal would work ok if it was firmly attached to the shaft, pinning, glueing with industrial epoxy, Loctite type products or even a couple of small grubscrews would help it to do its job, also the amount of grease you put in the bearing was way too little. for a fast running shaft in clean conditions you used the correct amount. in a filthy dusty wet extreme environment like a tub grinder you want to at least half fill the bearing housing. probably even a bit more. if it is a bit overfull, it will spit out what it doesnt want, along with keeping out any rubbish thats trying to work its way in. another handy hint is to use what are called forsheeda vee rings. They cost a few cents each
They are rubber seals designed to be a snug fit over the shaft you are using and they have a flexible lip that will happily run on the outside of a bearing housing, such as you were using as long as there is some lubrication like grease on them. Some electric motors come with them already fitted to the output shaft. i found in extreme environments that sometimes you can slip several of the vee rings onto a shaft, and as they wore out or got damaged, you could simply slide another vee ring in to create a fairly decent seal on the outside of the housing. We had many bearings working in wet , and dusty dirty environments and the vee rings along with excessive greasing prolonged bearing life considerably in many situations. Yes I know too much grease can cause overheating in some instances, but its sometimes a tradeoff as to what works and what doesnt. Sometimes a change to a semi fluid grease did the trick
Keith just curious what brand torque wrench your big 3/4 one is there?
Are the other set of pulleys this runs worn also?
Keith did bearing spec. sheet say anything about clearance between roller and race, the taper bushing will change clearance depends on how tight you you make it.
That is a small threaded hole for an eye bolt to screw into for lifting the cap up, if you needed it. ;{)-----
Yes, that topic is covered in episode 7 by the guys I gave the link too! ;{)-----
They designed two rubber joints in the system, one at the engine and one at the hammer shaft, seen in the still photo. ;{)-----
Wish we could see your work installed on site and being used.
Your videos are awesome! I learn a lot. Thank you so much!
Guess I should have watched the whole video before I posted a question!
Thanks again Keith!
Jeff
Thank you for a great set of videos - it must be the best yet
we want to hear these bearing working keith... we need to see it working
I watched them all, that lets you know how I regard your work. One comment though (not a criticism). I might have degreased, then wirebrushed, then primed and painted. You've renewed the machine, but for a low cost could have improved the rust resistance and secondarily the appearance; but I guess it would take several centuries to rust through! You must have decided against paint, wonder why?
I know just what you are saying Keith,, But i am so tired i,am What ever it was i was going to say came and went. Verry nice job.
As always I enjoyed this series and look forward to the next.
Cheers
Just space and timing, your right, as long as the makeup, is not over priced.
;{)-----
i hope you took a day off after that job. That was a workout i bet. Great work sir, you are a pro.
Yes I did just before starting on the bearing on that one side. ;{)-----
Thanks Keith
Your still The MAN.
Keep them coming.
When in doubt about bolts - like the bearing block cover fasteners, I'll torque to the Grade 5 spec., or buy new known bolts if things are more critical...
Hi keith...Well done, I bet you where glad to see the end of that one!!. After watching many of your video's (which I could do all day,) can i make a suggestion? I'd love to see a short video about how you've treated yourself to a better floor!....Im thinking something along the lines of a granular rubber type material which could be tiles or wet poured...YOUR KNEES DESERVE IT!!. ;-D
nice video, good job, I used to be a Latheman - you did a amazing job
Great series, you do great work!
And there it is! Popped up as soon as I asked!
The system of design tolerances allows multiple pieces of an assembly to be manufactured all over the world and still fit together. All the designer needs to do is make sure all of the different tolerances will work together. Boeing builds airplanes that way and sometimes they get bit.
Mr. Fenner, Fantastic video series.!.
I hesitated to post this. I know you get more comments and emails than time allows. Plus, I am sure you know about torque multiplier wrenches anyway. On ebay are several torque multipliers. Right now there is a Wright Tool X4 wrench listed for $125 plus shipping. BTW, for just plain brute force, the truck lug nut tool has a 1:58 gear box. Slow, but effective for breaking loose stuck hardware. (Or breaking the bolt if you've used up your luck for the day.)
i enjoyed your series. thank you very much for taking the time to please others. very entertaining! I look forward to your next series! :-P
Great job. Fascinating, even.
Awesome Vid, Keith- I really enjoyed it.
nice work and very good videos, thanks
yes love to see it in the field, best part or job well done!
They are a different diameter and were in spec's, as far as the word I got. ;{)-----
big iron, the pounding those shafts take is unbelievable, these tub grinders run stumps
with stones, metal and anything including dirt....the engine probably makes full hp when grinding.. very hard work bf.
I'd love to watch that!! And hear some stories with it.
Frank
Maybe when I have my foot surgery's, someday, I do something like that and I have photos all the way back to forever. ;{)-----
I kind of felt bad for you having to hunch over that thing and work on it on the floor. I suppose with a huge assembly like that you have to work on it right inside the door. BTW, I got about 310 lbs for the shaft. I figure that out all the time at work. Circle area X the length is the volume of the shaft X the density of steel (.284 lbs/in^3). It's always a good idea to know how much a huge piece of material is before you lift it so you aren't exceeding the capacity of lifting equipment.
Always look forward to your videos cheers my day up :) Keep up the great work.!
Good job! I really enjoyed the videos.
I think they need more V-belts on that drive shaft...
Love the videos, keep them coming. :)
Great job
Hi Keith, another great series but my wife is not happy as she thinks that I am spending more time with you than with her. She claims that I might have a 'Man Crush' :)
Just one question, what is hot wrenching that you refer to in the last video?
Hot wrenching means to burn the nut off the bolt by means of the cutting torch, some of the time, done without damage to the bolt threads. It also means to heat up a nut cherry red and break it's grip on the threads of the stud or bolt while it has expanded or after it returns to normal room temperature again. ;{)------
It was a four day job. ;{)-----
Great project. You got beat up on this one.
DON'T HAVE ANY PROBLEMS WITH THAT MOVING AROUND !!!
Nice job
hi I like want you do . good to see you work on all it I ben mechanic for 50 yrs I have work on all truck and cars I work at ford
You are the James Brown of machinists.
Many a young bloke today would say, send it back to the company that built the machine only they would have the expertise to do a repair like this. It would be beyond their ability...Great set of videos, thanks Keith
I bett the scrap man loves you.London-England
I wish you would tighten by pressing down from above, not by pulling up. Your back will last longer this way
anti-sieze is good stuff...provided people don't go gaga with it !!!!!! too much is SOOOOOOOO messy !!!!!!!!
I realize this is an old video, but why wouldn't you clean everything up and then repaint it so the customer sees an amazing transformation when they come to pick it up. I see you finish so many projects that look really bad with their rusted old finish on them yet. I would hire somebody to clean everything up and repaint things to make a better customer relationship if you are not into such things. I couldn't possibly reassembly rusted and paint worn items like that myself. JMHO
PS Get yourself a decent table to work on when you are doing jobs like this!!! Even when you were pulling up to use your torque wrench made me cringe. Its WAY easier to push down.
Hey small businesses is what made america
or=of
Love your videos , watched em all. Please don't change a thing. Hope your dad doing good.take care.
Thanks for your comment! ;{)-----