Jackshafting Part 7: Tub Grinder Jackshaft Refurbishment
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 พ.ย. 2024
- Jackshafting Part 7; Is not a video about Lathes, Mills, Drill Presses, welders, welding, Machining or PlasmaCAM or plasma cutting, in fact no fabrication or manufacturing is planned unless it is for the need of tooling! It's about the mechanical break down and refurbishing a Jackshaft assembly. A jackshaft, also called a countershaft, is a common mechanical design component used to transfer or synchronize rotational force in a machine. A jackshaft is often just a short stub with supporting bearings on the ends and two pulleys, gears, or cranks attached to it. This is the link for the recommended video; • MiHow2 - SKF - Mountin...
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [2/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qJbQs_nhjD4/mqdefault.jpg)
Great job on the shaft rebuild Keith! You pay great attention to detail and make sure everything is correctly installed and positioned.
I really love the crane scale. I wish I had one myself.
Thanks, had to make up some studio tools, so that's why episodes 7 & 8 took a bit longer to get out, besides the work load in the shop. I now will start using it for previews of coming attractions and such! LOL ;{)-----
Keith
I like your dry fit on the taper lock, if corrosion is not problem.
Dry is better, for your reason stated.
I love the Lixie brand of them. You're right, dead blow hammers are awesome and always my first choice!
You could make a needle to put on the end of the grease hose to make it easier to get grease into a dry bearing.
Had the same arrangement connected to a Gray Marine 671 with blower only it was running a rock crusher. What a character to operate!! The worst of it was managing belts and greasing as I fondly look way back
Electric or air powered grease guns are cats ass, but you have to be careful since they have no 'feel'. I have a zirk with a thin steel pipe soldered into it. I use it as an extension for tight spots. Just a tip for anyone.
I want to get one of those grease-inserting needles that you can put inside bearings 'cause they look as if they would be real handy. And I love the rawhide hammer. Sure, you're hitting something with a hammer -- but it sounds so soothing...
Spotted an issue with your neverseize on the coupler. You've been talking the last several episodes about assembling taper locks completely dry, however that design will permit the neverseize to creep into the taper lock.
The electric powered grease guns seem like a gimick, but I gurantee if you try one you will never look back! You don't have to worry about putting the grease gun somewhere, and it only takes two hands to grease anything that comes along. Plenty of power too for stubborn zerks. Try one Keith, you'll like it!!
seriously mate, you have to contact the Discovery channel, you have the basis for a damn fine show. your'e a natural in front of a camera and you make the most basic of jobs interesting. Oh and when your'e super famous can you send me a tenner for giving you the idea! :)
Looks similar to Dana 60 and Rockwell full floating axles bearings and lock nuts
and lock washers only larger.
It's interesting that in the MI video, the SKF guy oiled the taper before fitting the bearing.
It's a Chicago brand, had it for about nineteen years. ;{)-----
That's good to know - what about the type that fold over the flat of a nut?
Keith, question, I watched the video you linked regarding installation of a sleeved bearing. In fact I watched another video by SKF also demonstrating proper method of installing a sleeve bearing. The question is in both videos they gave the correct tolerances in the instructions and then used the tensioning nut first without the lock washer and tightened the nut using a spanner wrench but then used a feeler blade between the ball bearing and the outter bearing race, driving the bearing up the tapered sleeve until the stated clearances are achieved. Then they removed the nut, installed the lock washer, put the nut back on and tensioner it, checked the clearances with the feeler gauge and when correct bent the lock washer into place. The big thing was the use of the feeler gauge to determine proper placement on the taper sleeve along with proper bearing tolerances. Your thoughts?
The fellows in the recommended video are tame compared to you - I enjoy your videos for their real-life rawness and originality, not pandering here just being honest. Thanks for all your work uploading - kudos!
I am subbed to Motion Industry's channel they have a store near me Thanks for the info they do have some good how to videos
Nice work Keith.
احسنت عمل جيد.
Thank you! ;{)-----
That's a huge taper lock, and the amount of neverseize he uses is extremely negligible. I doubt very seriously it will make it far, even if it creeps out, and even then, well, the taper is already locked and it wouldn't get in there. He's referring to not lubing the taper beforehand because it will be inclusive to the bond at that point. Once you have metal to metal contact then you can safely take any kind of "fluid introduction" out of the equation.
He used real light oil and stated his theory for that kind of thinking. ;{)-----
Yes one of my favorite tools in the shop as far as hammers! ;{)-----
Keith Fenner percussive maintenance 😎
These bearings should be set using a feeler gauge between the bearing and race.
Is that rawhide hammer dead blow style?
Getting Fancy Mr. Fenner with blue screen!
Hello friend, congratulations for your videos, I have a couple of doubts that maybe you can solve me. the roller bearing with sleeve should give a tightening and tightening, has some reason not to do so. A greeting from Spain.
How did you learn your trade?
It started in my dads garage and moved to the shipyards of San Diego. ;{)-----
On the fasteners you used never seize. I have trained myself to use Loctite on most fasteners. I am wondering what your thoughts are on this? Thank you in advance.
Some things that are left to be opened again for maintenance, I use the neverseze, If I needed to hold a thread that had a habit of coming undone then I like removable loctite, and I also in some cases use the red and green loctite also.;{)-----
I like to use the green to install seals and bushings.
Thank you for the reply.
+Matt Wilkins There are a few factors that determine application of proper thread/fastener lubricant, sealant, anti-corrosion/galvanic compound... or nothing at all: the environment of the parts; chemicals, glues, salt water, water, oil, the operating temperature, vibration, rotation, etc. You also have the mating geometry: flat butted or tapered/cone (like some lug nuts). In certain areas, additional safety-wire, cotter-pins, or other mechanical device (deformed threads or nut, lock washer, 'ny-lock', etc.) employed to retain the fastener. Some things you want to "lock" on and others you want to easily disassemble. There are different degrees of fastening compounds ("locktite") and application: for instance a carburetor screw or a flywheel bolt. Some things you assemble you don't want to corrode over time, and not gall each other apart at a later time of removal. It is best to follow the engineer's design or established trade practices.
Turn Wright Machine Works - now with special effects :D
greetings from Austria
What's this 'neversees' stuff btw? It's just a name you came up with because nobody will see it? Or is it an actual product?
It is "never seize", a graphite paste for such applications.
9:00 What's this, breaking the torque with the torque wrench ? You naughty boy !!!
Also get an extension and break the by pushing down, you'll eventually hurt your back doing it this way.
whooooo!!