pen cap trick is pretty slick, great tip. For the rear bolt there's also the flexible cable/socket but the wobble is better and something most of us already have, and yes 10 bolts, the hose is a pain in the as also. take your time and you''ll get it.
Thank you for putting this up on TH-cam. You made a really difficult task manageable just by showing exactly where the bolts are. And the pen cap trick...genius! You saved me a lot of time and frustration. Thanks again!
I find that when using a flex adapter that it helps to wrap electrical tape around it to limit the amount of flex. That allows the adapter to move some but not just drop when you let go of it to guide it into a blind or hard to access area .I have also used a wrap of tape to prevent the socket or extensions from coming apart and falling out of sight .
I don't know why everyone says you need something "extra" to get the back bolt out - a 1/4-drive ratchet, 3" extension, and deepwell 10mm was all it took for me. I was worried when I read somewhere that you needed a wobble and a three-foot extension, and had to go in through the wheelwell.
Thank you for this video. I'm chasing a p0171 code and Autozone said the #1 injector. I bought one anyways but I think the code is mostly related to loose nuts/bolts but I bought the gaskets and everything anyways.
Be ready to struggle removing those injectors because those things ARE IN THERE GOOD! Make sure you clean the injector hole and the injector gasket before you reinstall for no leaks and easier installation. I highly recommend putting a little 2 stroke oil or Vaseline on the injector gaskets because they're a pain to reinstall. When putting them install them on the fuel rail first then into the engine. Gently push them into the engine holes as best as you can. Then take a mallet and hit each individual one until it looks like it's in. Make sure not to hit to hard and make sure the injector gaskets don't tear. Best of luck
He man, change the title of this video to: HELPFUL TIPS FOR ADVANCED MECHANICS. because I don't need to see how to remove each and every bolt. What you explained was high level issues and methods. Perfect to know what problems to be aware of. TY sir!
I have to remove all this junk just to access the dead starter on our 2007 Saab 9-7x (part of the TrailVoy fam) and I really appreciate these tips. Especially wish I saw this when we replaced the fuel lines last year! 😅
Instead of disconnecting the fuel line disconnect the fuel pressure regulator off the fuel rail Instead. It uses a hex 30 bit after removing those two bolts you can pull the regulator from the fuel rail easily by hand .
Thanks brother. I got all the intake bolts loose through the driver side fender well. I was already doing a brake job so the wheel was off. I used a deep 10mm socket on a swivel and my impact and a short 10mm swivel combo. That one by the alt was a bitch but got that also with swivels and my impact. Cheers!
you should have showed us from start to removal of intake manifold. instead of show us you had it out already. , my question for you is how did you get past the steel pipes in that are of the rear bolt by firewall. ????
When you mean steel pipes do you mean the fuel lines? And also yes, there is bolt all the way in the end of the manifold by the fire wall. I explain how to remove it in the video. Thank you for watching
As for that mid plenum stiff hose it would be safer to remove bottom hose clamp and pull off the then slide it off upper connection avoiding stress on plenum connection tubes. But, you got it done anyway. Nice job.
BOLT NEAR FIREWALL; Jack up the truck and remove the front wheel. Lift the flap up (Not sure, i think its a dust flap) and you can see the last bolt. A few extensions and that wobble thing and you're good.
Disconnect the Battery, *use a wobble 1/4 extension with shallow 10mm* (I was doing the valve cover gasket/plugs/fan clutch/PCM/Intake manifold gaskets. I used a 1/4 torque wrench same wobble extention on the back bolt. The PLASTIC fuel(Lisle 39400 Angled Disconnect Tool Set ) like $12. I did all of that and new throttle body runs like new (including coil packs/plugs). WAY cheaper having a paid off vehicle for the parts money I spent (plus I did all the labor). REPLACE the dry-rotted PVC Rubber vent tube it OEM $6 (also did the waterpump) when I was in there. I use OEM parts as these are not really fun to work on. And the thermostat (hoses) ect.. LOT of preventive maintenance but it is 15 years old to.
@@-ExperienceWithMe- I just noticed splash marks on the intake manifold cover - but I've been using MMO - there's two definite spots. Anyway - that pen cover idea is ingenious. thanks. Got any idea what could be causing the two splash spots? Must be the upper lubrication of the valve gasket by the MMO? haha. I am totally guessing but the engine seems to be running well. There's a lifter tick that I'm trying to get rid of....
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 glad I can help. Did you already do the job on the car or not yet? For the splash spots I'm not sure what that could be, I have to see in person. And what do you mean by MMO? And for the valve ticking try using sea foam treat meant. I hear great things about it.
@@-ExperienceWithMe- thanks for the response and recommendation. Marvel's Mystery Oil. Yeah the car is back at the dealer. Local mechanic says the rear pinion seal is leaking like a sieve and whoever did the job needs to redo it. haha. It was just replaced a couple weeks ago - I thought it was the differential rear cover still leaking.
If I remember correctly there's 2 screws on top and 2 nuts that need removing on the bottom. After you remove the nuts. You also need to remove the threads them self with a tiny sucker. Be very careful not to strip the threads
Maybe too late - I have some old( I think I got them in the mid 80's) Snap-on wrenches that have a open end wrench on one end and a socket on a pivot on the other, the back bolt to about 30 seconds to get off, hold it at about 70 or 80 degrees to put it on the bolt then fold it till as close too 90 as you can get and turn.
It took me about 3 days. I was inexperienced so someone experienced I guess can do it faster. Maybe a days work? Plus I was taking my sweet time with it.
@@mahonesjones4190 honestly I had a very hard time getting the alternator out because it's super tight in that area second hardest fore was the intake bolts. It was mostly time consuming.
@@-ExperienceWithMe- They may not all be this way but having this one is enough for me. Never again. I think everyone involved all the way up and down the chain should be ashamed of themselves. All this pain for a freaking valve cover gasket, a freakin maintenance job ffs.
its only this one the other set up is way easier... when i found out i had to take the alternator off i was like nah i had to deal with a thermostat install im not taking it out again until it dies... taking it to a shop to change my injectors... i was so mad. the TRQ video was very misleading
@@-ExperienceWithMe- raise the truck high enough so you can stick your arm underneath to the both.... It's still not a friendly process but you have more access to remove and tighten the bolt if needed
Their is definitely alot of tricks to taking stuff off of cars but not everyone will show you only a good person will good job bro
Thank you Joseph, thanks for watching 😊
pen cap trick is pretty slick, great tip. For the rear bolt there's also the flexible cable/socket but the wobble is better and something most of us already have, and yes 10 bolts, the hose is a pain in the as also. take your time and you''ll get it.
This many years later and that was the best damn explanation I’ve seen online period!
Thank you for putting this up on TH-cam. You made a really difficult task manageable just by showing exactly where the bolts are. And the pen cap trick...genius! You saved me a lot of time and frustration. Thanks again!
Not a problem happy to help
For that end bolt I found it helpful to crawl underneath the vehicle and get alot better access to the bolt
That's exactly what I did.... Thank's for the tip
I find that when using a flex adapter that it helps to wrap electrical tape around it to limit the amount of flex. That allows the adapter to move some but not just drop when you let go of it to guide it into a blind or hard to access area .I have also used a wrap of tape to prevent the socket or extensions from coming apart and falling out of sight .
That's a great idea
Execelent tip thanks .
I don't know why everyone says you need something "extra" to get the back bolt out - a 1/4-drive ratchet, 3" extension, and deepwell 10mm was all it took for me.
I was worried when I read somewhere that you needed a wobble and a three-foot extension, and had to go in through the wheelwell.
Bro! That’s what I’ve done! I thought I was the only one that did that. Keep up the good work and the good problem solving. Thumbs up.
That's awesome! Lol and thank you :)
Thank you for this video. I'm chasing a p0171 code and Autozone said the #1 injector. I bought one anyways but I think the code is mostly related to loose nuts/bolts but I bought the gaskets and everything anyways.
No problem! Good thing you bought a gasket. They tend to go bad some times. I'm glad I was able to help. Best of luck getting it running correctly
Be ready to struggle removing those injectors because those things ARE IN THERE GOOD! Make sure you clean the injector hole and the injector gasket before you reinstall for no leaks and easier installation. I highly recommend putting a little 2 stroke oil or Vaseline on the injector gaskets because they're a pain to reinstall. When putting them install them on the fuel rail first then into the engine. Gently push them into the engine holes as best as you can. Then take a mallet and hit each individual one until it looks like it's in. Make sure not to hit to hard and make sure the injector gaskets don't tear. Best of luck
Not knowing anything about this vehicle first time doing this job this video saved me
Very happy I can help 😊
He man, change the title of this video to: HELPFUL TIPS FOR ADVANCED MECHANICS.
because I don't need to see how to remove each and every bolt. What you explained was high level issues and methods. Perfect to know what problems to be aware of.
TY sir!
You're are most welcome!
I have to remove all this junk just to access the dead starter on our 2007 Saab 9-7x (part of the TrailVoy fam) and I really appreciate these tips. Especially wish I saw this when we replaced the fuel lines last year! 😅
When I replaced the starter I just pushed aside the brake booster hose and had enough room to replace it that way.
Instead of disconnecting the fuel line disconnect the fuel pressure regulator off the fuel rail Instead. It uses a hex 30 bit after removing those two bolts you can pull the regulator from the fuel rail easily by hand .
that corner bolt is truly pain in the ass.. I salute you since I gave up when doing it
Lol NOO! Don't let the vehicle win. If u follow the steps I showed u should be able to get that bolts out pretty quick
Electrical tape on the swivel to tighten up the movement of it will help 100 times better
Facts
Thank you very much, will be doing this job this weekend on my 09 trailblazer
No problem. And good luck. Just be patient and you'll get those bolts out. Thanks for watching
Best fuel line removal tool ever
Thanks brother. I got all the intake bolts loose through the driver side fender well. I was already doing a brake job so the wheel was off. I used a deep 10mm socket on a swivel and my impact and a short 10mm swivel combo. That one by the alt was a bitch but got that also with swivels and my impact. Cheers!
you should have showed us from start to removal of intake manifold. instead of show us you had it out already. , my question for you is how did you get past the steel pipes in that are of the rear bolt by firewall. ????
When you mean steel pipes do you mean the fuel lines? And also yes, there is bolt all the way in the end of the manifold by the fire wall. I explain how to remove it in the video. Thank you for watching
Leave the hose on use a little 1/4” drive short socket with extension and you can flex hose to get socket by it
As for that mid plenum stiff hose it would be safer to remove bottom hose clamp and pull off the then slide it off upper connection avoiding stress on plenum connection tubes. But, you got it done anyway. Nice job.
thanks for the instructions for the bolt pattern and about the last one its the missing piece to taking it off
Not a problem!
BOLT NEAR FIREWALL; Jack up the truck and remove the front wheel. Lift the flap up (Not sure, i think its a dust flap) and you can see the last bolt. A few extensions and that wobble thing and you're good.
Good idea. You were the most helpful I've seen. Thanks
Awsome disconnect tool lol thats gonna help thx
Lol np
@@-ExperienceWithMe- THE TOOLS YOU GOT IS A/C DISCONNECT TOOLS NOT FUEL LINE TOOLS
@@genebitqyck1432 IDK. When I bought it it said for fuel and AC lines
How come nobody takes the hose off from the bottom side instead of going from the top , seems like there's a hose clamp that you can remember remove ?
For that end bolt I'm getting my Wife to get at it.
Lol
Yes this video was fucken fabulous I Renata needed it
Happy to help. :) Thanks for watching
Joey this is good video for gmc
Pen cap is a great idea.
Great video, thanks.
Yeah also if you takeoff the left front wheel you’ll have access to all the bolts on the intake manifold
Current fighting that rear bolt and I’m about to give up .... shit sucks so bad man ...
I'm at the last one by the firewall. There's no room😭... did you use a swivel?
Is that the original manifold?
Thank you 🇺🇸
No problem
The intake hose at the bottom thanks for more of a view 👍
No problem glad I can help
What a pain in the a$$. Good video. Gotta do this tomorrow... 😳
Best of luck to ya. Hope everything goes smoothly. Thanks for watching
Disconnect the Battery, *use a wobble 1/4 extension with shallow 10mm* (I was doing the valve cover gasket/plugs/fan clutch/PCM/Intake manifold gaskets. I used a 1/4 torque wrench same wobble extention on the back bolt. The PLASTIC fuel(Lisle 39400 Angled Disconnect Tool Set ) like $12. I did all of that and new throttle body runs like new (including coil packs/plugs). WAY cheaper having a paid off vehicle for the parts money I spent (plus I did all the labor). REPLACE the dry-rotted PVC Rubber vent tube it OEM $6 (also did the waterpump) when I was in there. I use OEM parts as these are not really fun to work on. And the thermostat (hoses) ect.. LOT of preventive maintenance but it is 15 years old to.
i know Im kinda randomly asking but does anybody know of a good place to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Izaiah Avery Flixportal
@Luis Kade Thank you, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) Appreciate it !
@Izaiah Avery you are welcome :D
Good instructions Sir!
WOW - thanks. it's unbelievable, ridiculous.... I had no idea.
Glad I can help :)
@@-ExperienceWithMe- I just noticed splash marks on the intake manifold cover - but I've been using MMO - there's two definite spots. Anyway - that pen cover idea is ingenious. thanks. Got any idea what could be causing the two splash spots? Must be the upper lubrication of the valve gasket by the MMO? haha. I am totally guessing but the engine seems to be running well. There's a lifter tick that I'm trying to get rid of....
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 glad I can help. Did you already do the job on the car or not yet? For the splash spots I'm not sure what that could be, I have to see in person. And what do you mean by MMO? And for the valve ticking try using sea foam treat meant. I hear great things about it.
@@-ExperienceWithMe- thanks for the response and recommendation. Marvel's Mystery Oil. Yeah the car is back at the dealer. Local mechanic says the rear pinion seal is leaking like a sieve and whoever did the job needs to redo it. haha. It was just replaced a couple weeks ago - I thought it was the differential rear cover still leaking.
Thank you vey much! Very correct video!
Wow very educational my dude 👍
Dude how'd you get the PCM bracket off it's driving me insane!
If I remember correctly there's 2 screws on top and 2 nuts that need removing on the bottom. After you remove the nuts. You also need to remove the threads them self with a tiny sucker. Be very careful not to strip the threads
Last bolts super easy the first bolt behind the alternator is the pain in the butt just from limited space
Yup thanks now I’m sure I’ll take it to a shop to have it fixed .
@@benzcrazy lol
Are you using a 1/4” or 3/8 drive for that hard access bolt on manifold??
I used a 3/8 but you can also use a 1/4
Maybe too late - I have some old( I think I got them in the mid 80's) Snap-on wrenches that have a open end wrench on one end and a socket on a pivot on the other, the back bolt to about 30 seconds to get off, hold it at about 70 or 80 degrees to put it on the bolt then fold it till as close too 90 as you can get and turn.
@@tomr3422 You should be able to do the same thing with a socket and 1/4" breaker bar. I do remember the socket wrench you're talking about, though.
Thanks brother
Anytime happy to help 😊
Did you have to take take A/C line loose
No sir. Sorry for the late response
how many hours you think it would take to to this job?
It took me about 3 days. I was inexperienced so someone experienced I guess can do it faster. Maybe a days work? Plus I was taking my sweet time with it.
@@-ExperienceWithMe- 3 days!!! wow i can't have my truck down that long
hey bro im about to tackle leaking valve cover gasket as oil is leaking in my spark plug wells wats ur estimate on time it would take ? thanks
It took me about 3 days. I was inexperienced so someone experienced I guess can do it faster. Plus I was taking my sweet time with it
and wat was the hardest part fuel lines or intake plenum
@@mahonesjones4190 honestly I had a very hard time getting the alternator out because it's super tight in that area second hardest fore was the intake bolts. It was mostly time consuming.
@@-ExperienceWithMe-
were you changing valve gasket any codes or over heating after you put everything back together ?
and 1 more thing does the fuel rail need to come off to take valve cover off
If you really want to get to it the easy way youd take the wheel off and get it thru the wheel well
What code pops up?
Thaaaank u
I made a tool out of a flimsy curtain rod in 1 minute to remove fuel line easy 😂
Lol
Honestly this will be the last gm product i own. Half the vehicle is build like this.
Not all gm vehicles are this way
@@-ExperienceWithMe- They may not all be this way but having this one is enough for me. Never again. I think everyone involved all the way up and down the chain should be ashamed of themselves. All this pain for a freaking valve cover gasket, a freakin maintenance job ffs.
Put electrical tape on your swivel, it won't be so wobbly
its only this one the other set up is way easier... when i found out i had to take the alternator off i was like nah i had to deal with a thermostat install im not taking it out again until it dies... taking it to a shop to change my injectors... i was so mad. the TRQ video was very misleading
Fuel lines are not stupid, bro.
Lol
every automotive engineer should be beat their first day of work and told this is what you will get everyday if you design stupidly
Enough to know I’m not doing it
Lol
intake is 2 man job
Listen to this advice on rear bolt!!
I would just pay someone to fix it, "F" that !!!
LMAO
This Trailblzer is a typical Chevrolet clusterfuck.
Such a awful design. A job that in any car would take 1 to 2 hours took me 10.
Bro I went underneath the engine...so much easier
Didn't even know that was a option
@@-ExperienceWithMe- raise the truck high enough so you can stick your arm underneath to the both.... It's still not a friendly process but you have more access to remove and tighten the bolt if needed
Man and just to let you guys know this is not a easy job to do at all.
Agreed. And time consuming