Those “do not adjust screws” are often called the overload bypass and speed bypass valves. The overload bypass is a safety feature that prevents the Jack from lifting if the load is too heavy for the Jack. Adjust the screw too far one way, the jack will no longer lift its rated capacity. Turn too far the other way, the jack will attempt to lift higher than its rated capacity, and then risks blowing seals if overloaded. In these “rapid lift jacks”, The speed bypass switches the jack from “rapid lift” to “power lift” when it encounters a load- I.e. the jack lifts fast when there is no load, and then it changes to lift slower but give more power (I.e. more hydraulic/mechanical advantage) when a load is applied (starts to lift car). Adjust the screw too far one way you lose the “quick lift” feature. Turn too far the other way and the jack will lose its power lift, so when loaded it will be much harder to lift, plus you risk blowing the quick lift seal.
Thanks. Good to know. I have to make some adjustments to get that craftsman jack back to normal than. Right now it works and holds but takes some muscle to do it.
i dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb lost my account password. I would love any tips you can give me.
@Denver Alan Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
People who don't know what they are doing should not make videos. You would be better off watching videos from people who know what they are doing to fix your jack.
or sell the old one for scrap and get a new one. rather not die today kinda thing ya know? the hockey puck at the end on his jack was just the icing on the fucking cake for me. find a fucking proper spot to use a proper low profile jack or just use the fucking one in the spare compartment with your fancy impact wrench and socket sets. fucking kids these days man. and always use a secondary jack if you're going to work under a car that rides at 1" height unless you want to become a pancake the first time you find enough strength to break the seal on the oil plug, only to find out a little late that you didn't fix shit and are now either dead or clinging to life desperately only to die the second they lift the car.
@@TunerwithKids he never called it snake oil and no, you are wrong. you're probably seriously not even joshing responsible for at least one but i'd put money on more, serious injuries. people are thanking you for showing them how not to do something. have some self respect, delete the video and apologize for it like a real man.
I have the red Sears craftsman one had it about 20 years. Picked up an arcan low profile one about 7 years ago. Only drawback is that it's heavy. Thanks
Firstly I appreciate your effort, and I don't want to pick at your work. I didn't see if you put that one hard nylon o-ring back, it needs to be exactly where you had removed it from. People who work with pressure devices would know that it's for reinforcement of the o-ring. In some industries, it would be referred to as a "Back-Up" You shouldn't stack o-rings like that, would most likely cause o-ring extrusion and loss of pressure, or worse regarding safety. I do like the change out of fluid, I need to do this also. Again, I don't mean to come off as someone who just knocks someone's effort. I'm just thinking safety.
There so many that I don’t remember. These jack seals are garbage on these. Most of my leaks appear to be the piston seals since it leaks after a few months from the bottom. I thinks it’s time to toss these and get some better ones. Probably pick up a low profile Daytona from HF.
Maintenance General Periodically lubricate the Jack as described below. 1. Lubricate the joints and Ram (A5) with a light oil as needed. 2. Remove Handle and grease the lower end of the Handle where it rotates in the Handle Base (29). 3. Oil all lift arm linkages, front wheels, and rear casters. 4. Clean the outside of the Jack with a dry, clean cloth. 5. If the Jack is exposed to moisture, wipe dry with a clean cloth and lubricate. 6. Store Jack with piston Ram (A5) withdrawn (Saddle down), and in a clean and dry location. Purging Air from the Hydraulic System Air bubbles can become trapped inside the hydraulic system thereby reducing the efficiency of the Jack. Purge the air from the system if lift efficiency drops. 1. Turn the Handle 1-1/2 turns counterclockwise. 2. Remove the Breathing Screw (A37) by turning it counterclockwise. 3. Rapidly pump the Handle assembly several times to purge the air from the hydraulic system. 4. Close the release valve by turning the Handle completely clockwise. 5. Replace and tighten the Breathing Screw. 6. If efficiency is still low, remove Oil Plug (A39), and top off fluid reservoir in the Aluminum Base (A13) with hydraulic oil. 7. Replace the Oil Plug (A39) and repeat steps 1 ~ 5, above. 8. Wipe up any hydraulic oil overflow with a cloth. 9. Test the Jack as described under Operation, step 1 on page 4
wait.. are you telling me i shouldn't just wing it while also making a video acting like i know what i'm doing, putting hundreds if not thousands of people in danger inadvertently? 😆
@@TunerwithKids trial and error until the car falls on top of you. Please do more research and figure out this stuff before making TH-cam videos. That said if I ever took a Jack apart I would never get under a car with that Jack again.
There’s your error, never get under a car with jack only, that’s why they make jack stands. A hydraulic jack for lifting, not supporting or to hold a car. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
This video could have been SO much better, if he just would have done a little bit of preparation and studying beforehand! Lots of “I’m not sure” and “I don’t know.” He didn’t even know which screw was the bleeder in advance!
Mine is leaking from the valve adjustment/ spinning thing. Is it the piston seals? It is weird because it worked couple months back and now just leaks.. Usually these fail gradually.
if it's aharborr freight take it back for replacement. if it's not and you want to fix it yourself, at least attempt to find a user's maintenance manual.
cool, my HF slim fast jack is not leaking but bleeds down internally so it would be piston seal just like a cars master cylinder ,oil leaks back past a seal so you get leak down not from those little seals....good luck
I bought some of those o ring from harbor freight but i don't know exactly the exact o ring i need and the one i match with the old one is not doing nothing every time i bleed the jack the o ring came out too so i don't know if im doing something wrong
Hi. I have exactly the same jack. I disassembled the middle screw with the 3 bearing. When I have pump all is go out and I don’t know how it was assembled :/ I tried some mounting but it didn’t work. When I lift it’s ok but when I lift a car it don’t keep the height. Can you give me assembly order? (I have 3 balls, one spring and a little hexagonal cylinder. I can give you photos if we can do this per mail. Thx
Did you ever figure this out? I think there is an exploded view in the manual. I am missing the medium size ball bearing and need to know the size? Can you help me?
This is confusing as hell. First, it's one valve and then it's something else and then it's something else altogether. I'll go watch another vid and see if they have their terminology correct.
You did not rebuild the jack, you simply replace o rings but your main problem was that you had air in the system, the o rings were not the issue to begin with
@@qleap99 if the screws hold in the fluid and don't let air in, ie: if the machined parts were machined perfectly to spec like we are talking +/- .0001" (never gonna happen on a product this price range) you probably wouldn't need an oring and just some regular sealant grease would work just fine. now, china makes fine parts for the most part due to heavy demand and instead of trying to machine them perfectly (never gonna happen still) an oring is a cheap and effective solution rather than scrap out 99.9% of parts.
If you're going to tell people how to fix a floor jack, at least first figure out how to do it yourself. The screws along the base of the jack are not for filling.
Hello guys. I have a small Chinese 2 ton floor jack that serve me well the last 5 years. The problem (I think i have) is that it doesn't stay up. What I mean.. with no load I lift it and the next day Is down. It drops about 1-2cm every 20 minutes. I change the oil and do the bleeding procedure already. Also when I turn anticlockwise the pressure valve to lower the jack,the silicone filler cap pop up. I press the side of it with a flat screwdriver and always push air out,no matter how many times I do bleed it before. I pull oylut some oil and now the filler plug stays in strong but again when I press it air goes out. There is no leak outside. Is that normal or I should something else?
The red Craftsmen jack has always worked except for the leak and it looks to be from the jacking handle area. Disassembly is a bitch so it may end up in the dumpster, the music is annoying
DUDE IFMBLEEDER IS OPEN AND YOUR PUMPING YOUR SUCKING AIR INTO THE SYSTEM THATS WHY WHEN YOU BLEED BRAKES SOMEONE HOLDS PEDAL DOWN SO NO AIR GETS SUCKED IN WHEN RELEASING THIS MUST FUNCTION IN SIMILAR WAY...
![MUST HAVE TOOL! How To Fix or Rebuild a Floor Jack [BOTTLE JACK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sk0FF6GFlqA/mqdefault.jpg)
![MUST HAVE TOOL! How To Fix or Rebuild a Floor Jack [BOTTLE JACK]](/img/tr.png)
Those “do not adjust screws” are often called the overload bypass and speed bypass valves.
The overload bypass is a safety feature that prevents the Jack from lifting if the load is too heavy for the Jack. Adjust the screw too far one way, the jack will no longer lift its rated capacity. Turn too far the other way, the jack will attempt to lift higher than its rated capacity, and then risks blowing seals if overloaded.
In these “rapid lift jacks”, The speed bypass switches the jack from “rapid lift” to “power lift” when it encounters a load- I.e. the jack lifts fast when there is no load, and then it changes to lift slower but give more power (I.e. more hydraulic/mechanical advantage) when a load is applied (starts to lift car). Adjust the screw too far one way you lose the “quick lift” feature. Turn too far the other way and the jack will lose its power lift, so when loaded it will be much harder to lift, plus you risk blowing the quick lift seal.
Thanks. Good to know. I have to make some adjustments to get that craftsman jack back to normal than. Right now it works and holds but takes some muscle to do it.
i dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb lost my account password. I would love any tips you can give me.
@Thaddeus Kevin Instablaster =)
@Denver Alan Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out atm.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Denver Alan it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass !
People who don't know what they are doing should not make videos. You would be better off watching videos from people who know what they are doing to fix your jack.
Hey, I fixed mine using that snake oil so, yea.
@@TunerwithKids all u did was replace oil rings, that’s not rebuilding it, u just had air in the system
False repair. You have no clue
or sell the old one for scrap and get a new one. rather not die today kinda thing ya know? the hockey puck at the end on his jack was just the icing on the fucking cake for me. find a fucking proper spot to use a proper low profile jack or just use the fucking one in the spare compartment with your fancy impact wrench and socket sets. fucking kids these days man. and always use a secondary jack if you're going to work under a car that rides at 1" height unless you want to become a pancake the first time you find enough strength to break the seal on the oil plug, only to find out a little late that you didn't fix shit and are now either dead or clinging to life desperately only to die the second they lift the car.
@@TunerwithKids he never called it snake oil and no, you are wrong. you're probably seriously not even joshing responsible for at least one but i'd put money on more, serious injuries. people are thanking you for showing them how not to do something. have some self respect, delete the video and apologize for it like a real man.
I have the red Sears craftsman one had it about 20 years. Picked up an arcan low profile one about 7 years ago. Only drawback is that it's heavy. Thanks
Firstly I appreciate your effort, and I don't want to pick at your work. I didn't see if you put that one hard nylon o-ring back, it needs to be exactly where you had removed it from. People who work with pressure devices would know that it's for reinforcement of the o-ring. In some industries, it would be referred to as a "Back-Up" You shouldn't stack o-rings like that, would most likely cause o-ring extrusion and loss of pressure, or worse regarding safety. I do like the change out of fluid, I need to do this also. Again, I don't mean to come off as someone who just knocks someone's effort. I'm just thinking safety.
There so many that I don’t remember. These jack seals are garbage on these. Most of my leaks appear to be the piston seals since it leaks after a few months from the bottom. I thinks it’s time to toss these and get some better ones. Probably pick up a low profile Daytona from HF.
@@TunerwithKids That's the answer, mess up your jack and buy a new one.
pick at his work? he did the entire job wrong. this video is one of the only ones showing how to 'fix' this type of jack and it's completly wrong
Maintenance
General
Periodically lubricate the Jack as described below.
1. Lubricate the joints and Ram (A5) with a light oil as needed.
2. Remove Handle and grease the lower end of the Handle where it rotates in the
Handle Base (29).
3. Oil all lift arm linkages, front wheels, and rear casters.
4. Clean the outside of the Jack with a dry, clean cloth.
5. If the Jack is exposed to moisture, wipe dry with a clean cloth and lubricate.
6. Store Jack with piston Ram (A5) withdrawn (Saddle down), and in a clean and dry
location.
Purging Air from the Hydraulic System
Air bubbles can become trapped inside the hydraulic system thereby reducing the efficiency
of the Jack. Purge the air from the system if lift efficiency drops.
1. Turn the Handle 1-1/2 turns counterclockwise.
2. Remove the Breathing Screw (A37) by turning it
counterclockwise.
3. Rapidly pump the Handle assembly several times to
purge the air from the hydraulic system.
4. Close the release valve by turning the Handle
completely clockwise.
5. Replace and tighten the Breathing Screw.
6. If efficiency is still low, remove Oil Plug (A39), and top off
fluid reservoir in the Aluminum Base (A13) with hydraulic oil.
7. Replace the Oil Plug (A39) and repeat steps 1 ~ 5, above.
8. Wipe up any hydraulic oil overflow with a cloth.
9. Test the Jack as described under Operation, step 1 on page 4
wait.. are you telling me i shouldn't just wing it while also making a video acting like i know what i'm doing, putting hundreds if not thousands of people in danger inadvertently? 😆
It’s plain he dosent know what is what..
Trial and error.
@@TunerwithKids Half the fun it the T&E!
@@TunerwithKids trial and error until the car falls on top of you.
Please do more research and figure out this stuff before making TH-cam videos. That said if I ever took a Jack apart I would never get under a car with that Jack again.
There’s your error, never get under a car with jack only, that’s why they make jack stands. A hydraulic jack for lifting, not supporting or to hold a car. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
"Farmer method", "I haven't worked on one of these, but I can fix it".
I work on hydraulics everyday, this guy is clueless! 😂
He’s learning as he goes.
He seems of normal intelligence. This just looks like his first rodeo, as far as jack repair goes.
Jeeeeez….I think I’m worse off after watching this.
This video could have been SO much better, if he just would have done a little bit of preparation and studying beforehand! Lots of “I’m not sure” and “I don’t know.” He didn’t even know which screw was the bleeder in advance!
Mine is leaking from the valve adjustment/ spinning thing. Is it the piston seals? It is weird because it worked couple months back and now just leaks.. Usually these fail gradually.
if it's aharborr freight take it back for replacement. if it's not and you want to fix it yourself, at least attempt to find a user's maintenance manual.
cool, my HF slim fast jack is not leaking but bleeds down internally so it would be piston seal just like a cars master cylinder ,oil leaks back past a seal so you get leak down not from those little seals....good luck
Do you know the seal dimensions?
does anyone know how to remove the piston on this jack? Mine is leaking from the piston. thanks.
Go to the gym for three years, then pull it out.
I have the same blue jack I filled it and it stoped working . why. ??
Overfill or overtighten the valve.
Good Lord, dude, really?!!
Hey there!
Just wondering where you found all those O rings from?
Harbor freight has boxes for like $7 or $9. The green ones are for R134a AC lines, I had some laying around.
I bought some of those o ring from harbor freight but i don't know exactly the exact o ring i need and the one i match with the old one is not doing nothing every time i bleed the jack the o ring came out too so i don't know if im doing something wrong
It’s crap shoot on O ring size. If all fails, try one that’s in it thicker but fit inner diameter.
Great help thank you
Hi. I have exactly the same jack. I disassembled the middle screw with the 3 bearing. When I have pump all is go out and I don’t know how it was assembled :/ I tried some mounting but it didn’t work. When I lift it’s ok but when I lift a car it don’t keep the height.
Can you give me assembly order? (I have 3 balls, one spring and a little hexagonal cylinder. I can give you photos if we can do this per mail.
Thx
Did you ever figure this out? I think there is an exploded view in the manual. I am missing the medium size ball bearing and need to know the size? Can you help me?
This is confusing as hell. First, it's one valve and then it's something else and then it's something else altogether. I'll go watch another vid and see if they have their terminology correct.
Trial and error
Black toenails waiting to happen any day now!
You did not rebuild the jack, you simply replace o rings but your main problem was that you had air in the system, the o rings were not the issue to begin with
Air in the system is responsible for the oil leaking out of the jack, moreso than o-rings?
@@qleap99 if the screws hold in the fluid and don't let air in, ie: if the machined parts were machined perfectly to spec like we are talking +/- .0001" (never gonna happen on a product this price range) you probably wouldn't need an oring and just some regular sealant grease would work just fine. now, china makes fine parts for the most part due to heavy demand and instead of trying to machine them perfectly (never gonna happen still) an oring is a cheap and effective solution rather than scrap out 99.9% of parts.
I have a blue point 1.5 I need the schematic same as the aluminum your working on blue points diagram doesn’t have names to parts
If you're going to tell people how to fix a floor jack, at least first figure out how to do it yourself. The screws along the base of the jack are not for filling.
Does anybody know how to replace center shaft seal on this jack
This video was not helpful. Bihn seems very nice, but did not actually service these floor jacks. I was hoping to see piston and or HYD mechanism
Hello guys. I have a small Chinese 2 ton floor jack that serve me well the last 5 years. The problem (I think i have) is that it doesn't stay up. What I mean.. with no load I lift it and the next day Is down. It drops about 1-2cm every 20 minutes. I change the oil and do the bleeding procedure already. Also when I turn anticlockwise the pressure valve to lower the jack,the silicone filler cap pop up. I press the side of it with a flat screwdriver and always push air out,no matter how many times I do bleed it before. I pull oylut some oil and now the filler plug stays in strong but again when I press it air goes out. There is no leak outside. Is that normal or I should something else?
Sounds like a bad seal or oring. Common for these cheap jacks.
What are you doing ?
Filling oil and replacing leaking o-rings.
@@TunerwithKids be safe
Thank you. I have a similar problem and this helped.
Great to hear!
That jack will never work again
The red Craftsmen jack has always worked except for the leak and it looks to be from the jacking handle area. Disassembly is a bitch so it may end up in the dumpster, the music is annoying
DUDE IFMBLEEDER IS OPEN AND YOUR PUMPING YOUR SUCKING AIR INTO THE SYSTEM THATS WHY WHEN YOU BLEED BRAKES SOMEONE HOLDS PEDAL DOWN SO NO AIR GETS SUCKED IN WHEN RELEASING THIS MUST FUNCTION IN SIMILAR WAY...
Come on man why wouldnt you say dont take the middle valve out before the video started.
Looks like you have no idea what you are doing!!! 😅
If you don't know what you're doing don't make a video pretending that you do!
Fake it til you make it.