thank you, glad it was helpful. You can always shoot with just 1 light, having 3 gives you the freedom to light the background independent from the subject, having 5 would give you some extra rim lights, 7 would break the bank, 9 and you'd be … you get the idea. Of course having more is nice, but 90% of my portfolio work is done (or could be done) with just one light.
I'm back Stephan with a different question now. Purchased my first strobe 2 weeks ago. I noticed in this shoot, you're using the 1200 versions. So, question: In a controlled environment (i.e. studio), to get a low t0.1 flash duration, you need to use lower power, but (as you point out in your example) to make sure you sharp and frozen - higher f/stop. Two questions here. One for strobe and one in general. STROBE question: What is the benefit/or downside of using one more powerful flash *1200ws vs. two less powerful strobes (600 ws) other than you then need two modifiers and stands). Second question: Since you are starting with a black frame - do you lock focus with greater DOF - and then shoot, or leave the camera in AF-C - which seems more difficult even with subject detection eye AF - in low light. Thanks!
Good to hear from you. I use the 1200 or more powerful strobes to use them at 1/2 or 1/4 power, which - as you mentioned - shortens the flash duration. When I need to push a 300 w strobe to the max, and a 600 to half power, I can get 1/4 power on a 1200, and with it a faster t.01 value. Not to forget using softboxes or bouncing the light, which of course also reduces the actual light on the subject. Long story short - you can make it work with whatever you have, but if possible use more power at lower settings to get more speed.
@@StephanBollinger Understood. Thanks for that answer. As for the AF question? Pre-focus with small f-stop and shoot (i.e. AF-S) or track with AF-C (which seems more risky. Thanks again.
@@dance2jam - with film I pre-focus as much as possible, however, shooting mostly with the Nikon Z9 nowadays, the continuous 3D auto-focus can keep up in 99% of the time perfectly.
Thanks, Stephan. I was confused about High Speed Sync and Flash Duration before. But now I have no problem in theory. One question, during your dance shooting, do you using continuous shooting? If yes, how can we calculate the maximum valid shooting time according to light's recycle speed? Thanks.
Glad it was helpful. No, I never use continuous shooting when working in the studio. I anticipate the movement and take 1 photo in the (hopefully) perfect moment.
Stephan, new to your channel (videos), and fairly new to photography (in general) and very new to flash photography. That said, I read a lot. This was the "best" simple explanation of freezing action with strobes and how it works (in studio vs HSS). That said, your point and my memory of your example, would have been even better if you offered just a few examples of why you would shoot HSS outside (i.e. "overpower the sun", freeze action, shallow DOF). Great starting point video (now I have to go find your older video you refer to here) to see what you included. I realize you could have gone much more in depth with time duration, peak intensity, etc of flash, but I only know enough right now to get myself into trouble. LOL I'm still practicing bouncing angles and the effects they provide. Much appreciated and heart felt warmth for the Ukrainian people
i have question, Can you clarify how T0.1 is represented with HSS? I don't understand very well I can understand that the lower the power, the higher the freezing speed, but in the dark, if the HSS is bright, how does t0.1 and HSS appear?
So HSS is used in an environment where there is ambient light exposing the scene and due to this a requirement emerges to cut that light out to freeze motion VIA the shutter speed. ON TOP of that, if you want to use the flash, you have to use it in HSS mode because a high shutter speed is required. And HSS is not used when there is no ambient light exposing the scene, and there is only light from the flash. Because of this, since there is no other light, you can freeze motion using the speed of the flash, and now shutter speed makes zero difference (in a perfectly black area)
More or less. All depends on the camera settings. In a room with some ambient light, shooting at f2.8 and ISO 400 would show some details, however, changing it to ISO 64 and f8 would create a black frame. In that case - even though it's not a perfectly black room - we can use the speed of the lights to freeze the action. Without HS sync, at a shutter speed of 1/200s
So this is interesting. When to use HSS vs. when to use non-HSS. If there is any kind of light in the scene that can expose the photo, use HSS. If there is no light, don't use HSS. Why? Cos ambient light will need to be cut down by the shutter speed to be properly exposed. If it is too bright, you'd have to go over 1/200 and require to use HSS. But if there is no ambient light to cut out, shutter speed becomes much more useless, and exposure is done via the speed of the flash, so because of that, you can put shutter speed to whatever, and just use the flash to expose the photo
That's certainly one explanation. Camera settings is another, if you shoot wide open or at f16, dial your ISO up or down, it all controls ambient. Mostly however, it's about what I want to achieve, and I use HSS to get a certain look or effect.
![Dance Photography - Godox QT1200 IIIM [SBWeekly E34]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for the explanation, it makes total sense now! OTOH, would you say that 3 lights are the minimum for these kinds of shoots?? Thanks
thank you, glad it was helpful. You can always shoot with just 1 light, having 3 gives you the freedom to light the background independent from the subject, having 5 would give you some extra rim lights, 7 would break the bank, 9 and you'd be … you get the idea. Of course having more is nice, but 90% of my portfolio work is done (or could be done) with just one light.
This is just the piece I was missing. New sub thanks!!!
Ich habe Familie in Giswil in der Schweiz ❤ Love the video
I'm back Stephan with a different question now. Purchased my first strobe 2 weeks ago. I noticed in this shoot, you're using the 1200 versions. So, question: In a controlled environment (i.e. studio), to get a low t0.1 flash duration, you need to use lower power, but (as you point out in your example) to make sure you sharp and frozen - higher f/stop. Two questions here. One for strobe and one in general. STROBE question: What is the benefit/or downside of using one more powerful flash *1200ws vs. two less powerful strobes (600 ws) other than you then need two modifiers and stands). Second question: Since you are starting with a black frame - do you lock focus with greater DOF - and then shoot, or leave the camera in AF-C - which seems more difficult even with subject detection eye AF - in low light. Thanks!
Good to hear from you. I use the 1200 or more powerful strobes to use them at 1/2 or 1/4 power, which - as you mentioned - shortens the flash duration. When I need to push a 300 w strobe to the max, and a 600 to half power, I can get 1/4 power on a 1200, and with it a faster t.01 value. Not to forget using softboxes or bouncing the light, which of course also reduces the actual light on the subject. Long story short - you can make it work with whatever you have, but if possible use more power at lower settings to get more speed.
@@StephanBollinger Understood. Thanks for that answer. As for the AF question? Pre-focus with small f-stop and shoot (i.e. AF-S) or track with AF-C (which seems more risky. Thanks again.
@@dance2jam - with film I pre-focus as much as possible, however, shooting mostly with the Nikon Z9 nowadays, the continuous 3D auto-focus can keep up in 99% of the time perfectly.
@@StephanBollinger Thanks so much. Excellent, as always. Much appreciated.
Perfect 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 now i understand how it works
Thanks.
Great explanation Stephan!
Thank you! Glad these videos are helpful
Great video. Appreciate your "Putin's War" introduction too. Real talk. Thank you.
Thank you so much ❤
You’re very welcome!
Thanks, Stephan. I was confused about High Speed Sync and Flash Duration before. But now I have no problem in theory. One question, during your dance shooting, do you using continuous shooting? If yes, how can we calculate the maximum valid shooting time according to light's recycle speed? Thanks.
Glad it was helpful. No, I never use continuous shooting when working in the studio. I anticipate the movement and take 1 photo in the (hopefully) perfect moment.
Stephan, new to your channel (videos), and fairly new to photography (in general) and very new to flash photography. That said, I read a lot. This was the "best" simple explanation of freezing action with strobes and how it works (in studio vs HSS). That said, your point and my memory of your example, would have been even better if you offered just a few examples of why you would shoot HSS outside (i.e. "overpower the sun", freeze action, shallow DOF). Great starting point video (now I have to go find your older video you refer to here) to see what you included. I realize you could have gone much more in depth with time duration, peak intensity, etc of flash, but I only know enough right now to get myself into trouble. LOL I'm still practicing bouncing angles and the effects they provide. Much appreciated and heart felt warmth for the Ukrainian people
Yay we have Bailey and kadelle Such pretty photos ♥️
i have question, Can you clarify how T0.1 is represented with HSS? I don't understand very well
I can understand that the lower the power, the higher the freezing speed, but in the dark, if the HSS is bright, how does t0.1 and HSS appear?
So HSS is used in an environment where there is ambient light exposing the scene and due to this a requirement emerges to cut that light out to freeze motion VIA the shutter speed. ON TOP of that, if you want to use the flash, you have to use it in HSS mode because a high shutter speed is required.
And HSS is not used when there is no ambient light exposing the scene, and there is only light from the flash. Because of this, since there is no other light, you can freeze motion using the speed of the flash, and now shutter speed makes zero difference (in a perfectly black area)
More or less. All depends on the camera settings. In a room with some ambient light, shooting at f2.8 and ISO 400 would show some details, however, changing it to ISO 64 and f8 would create a black frame. In that case - even though it's not a perfectly black room - we can use the speed of the lights to freeze the action. Without HS sync, at a shutter speed of 1/200s
So this is interesting. When to use HSS vs. when to use non-HSS.
If there is any kind of light in the scene that can expose the photo, use HSS.
If there is no light, don't use HSS.
Why? Cos ambient light will need to be cut down by the shutter speed to be properly exposed. If it is too bright, you'd have to go over 1/200 and require to use HSS.
But if there is no ambient light to cut out, shutter speed becomes much more useless, and exposure is done via the speed of the flash, so because of that, you can put shutter speed to whatever, and just use the flash to expose the photo
That's certainly one explanation. Camera settings is another, if you shoot wide open or at f16, dial your ISO up or down, it all controls ambient. Mostly however, it's about what I want to achieve, and I use HSS to get a certain look or effect.
😥😥😥 Thank you 🙏
You're welcome!
Also, it would be better if a programmer explained all with sketches instead of showing her/his face all the time during the video. Thanks for work
Leave your videos on photos.
Clown