*Significantly increases my production time specially on sanding curves **MyBest.Tools** which i do manually with dremel before. Wish this is locally available in my country. Cheers.*
That is a great tip for changing the disk. I worked as a patternmaker and the sanders we used had tables that you could move up and down with a rack and pinion so they were much easier to remove.When putting a new one on we still always folded the plastic coating half way back like you have done.The 36" disk sander would not lower much at all so we did just what you did to get it off. I have found that what you used for cleaning the plate is the best thing to use. I always used lacquer thinner to clean the plate then wiped it down with acetone. The disk seem to stick much better.I think the acetone helped to get rid of any lacquer thinner that may have still been in the pours of the metal. Back in the day when we didn't have self stick disk we used a rubber contact cement used for sander disk. They were much harder to get on than self stick disk. Your tip will help many people with changing disk. Thanks for your video.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge sir. New to wood working and finding a lot of interesting time saving advice from good men such as yourself tremendously useful 🤝
Good tip David! I use my heat gun to loosen the old disc but then I always struggle with the new one, usually just remove the table. Need to replace mine now, I'll try this.
The best and faster way to remove one is a propane torch. Wave the flame quickly across the wheel not leaving the heat on the wheel too long just enough to heat the glue up it'll pull right off. I have been doing this for 19 years on the same machine.
Dear David, if you change over to felt-backed discs you never need to struggle with sticky backed discs again. You put the hook disc on your plate and fix the felt backed sandpaper discs to the hooked base. The best thing is that changing discs, for instance to change grit, is a breeze. Cut a piece of plain paper into two half circles. Lift your paper from the plate, slip in a half circle and rotate 180 degrees. Lift the half circle to remove. Installing a new disc is just as simple. Place both plain circle halves on your disc. Place the felt-backed paper and align accurately to the whole circle edge. Remove half template, rotate 180 degrees and remove final template. Voila! The whole process takes less than two minutes. Cheers.
Even easier, take the new disk and using a razor blade scor the backing in the middle and peal 1/2 off, then when you peal the old disk off take the backing from the new disk and slip it on the old disk and rotate and peal off. No bending. then on the new disk simply slide the half with the backing down attach the exposed top rotate and peal off the other 1/2 of backing, all done.
I like them on my random orbit sander, but for use on a disc sander I'm usually looking for a fairly flat and crisp pressure. Hook and look adds padding (though slight) to the process and gives a more cushioned (and less desirable in this case) pressure on the wood. My two cents. Thanks for the question! - DT
Mine always rip. It's like taking an adhesive price tag off of something. It comes off in teeny tiny little scraps of paper. A putty knife helps, but it's a struggle.
Hi guys I'm going crazy trying to find the right peel and stick pads for my ryobi dual belt and disk sander. Can anyone tell me what are some good pads that have a good strong backing for a 6 inch disk made in usa? I looked at diablos 6 inch stick fast but the reviews said the disc flies right off when you turn on the sander... Thanks guys!
Alternatively, to remove, you can use some old, worn tin snips or metal shears to cut the loose half of the disc off, then rotate the disc 180º degrees and remove the rest. VM&P Naphtha also cuts many adhesives. FLAMMABLE! Outside or use a fan nearby.
Personally, for the part that I had already peeled off, I would have stuck a shop towel or a mail flyer (piece of junk mail) in between it before spinning the wheel.
Given how much of a pain in the arse this is -and it always is- I'm surprised nobody has thought of something better, like a detachable, ejectable disc. You could even have a few live discs with different grits on the go at once, just swapping them in like band-sander paper. I'd buy one.
That’s what a Shopsmith is for. You can get extra discs and change them easy as pie. I keep one for metalwork and one for wood. The other great thing is that the table is larger than the ones you find on just about any other 12 inch sander and since you move the disc instead of the workpiece it’s excellent for fine work.
I always thought having a disc with two grits would be useful. Rougher grit on the inside half of the disc, finer grit on the outside. Two-in-one, at least! - DT
I would have started the disk sander to clean off the gunk with super speed. Is that dumb? I can't think of why it would be dumb but i make sure to question my own intellect
In a teaching video, especially, you really should be using eye protection during that 'erasing' bit. Also, nitrile gloves and a respirator while handling the lacquer thinner.
*Significantly increases my production time specially on sanding curves **MyBest.Tools** which i do manually with dremel before. Wish this is locally available in my country. Cheers.*
*Significantly increases my production time specially on sanding curves **MyBest.Tools** which i do manually with dremel before. Wish this is locally available in my country. Cheers.*
Very nice job This is the technique I had in mind and it was good to see someone else do it before I did. Thank you.
That is a great tip for changing the disk. I worked as a patternmaker and the sanders we used had tables that you could move up and down with a rack and pinion so they were much easier to remove.When putting a new one on we still always folded the plastic coating half way back like you have done.The 36" disk sander would not lower much at all so we did just what you did to get it off.
I have found that what you used for cleaning the plate is the best thing to use. I always used lacquer thinner to clean the plate then wiped it down with acetone. The disk seem to stick much better.I think the acetone helped to get rid of any lacquer thinner that may have still been in the pours of the metal.
Back in the day when we didn't have self stick disk we used a rubber contact cement used for sander disk. They were much harder to get on than self stick disk.
Your tip will help many people with changing disk. Thanks for your video.
Great tips! Glad you still have this video up.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge sir. New to wood working and finding a lot of interesting time saving advice from good men such as yourself tremendously useful 🤝
Good tip David! I use my heat gun to loosen the old disc but then I always struggle with the new one, usually just remove the table. Need to replace mine now, I'll try this.
Thanks, this video was helpful!
Excellent job! Thank you very much!
Nice. I was not looking forward to doing this. Your tip will make my replacement disk go on nicely. Thanks,
Thanks for the tips and tricks. It’s always good to know an easier way to do something. Thank you.
You made this look so easy, I will have to give this a try so the one I have can have a new life that I can work with 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
The best and faster way to remove one is a propane torch. Wave the flame quickly across the wheel not leaving the heat on the wheel too long just enough to heat the glue up it'll pull right off.
I have been doing this for 19 years on the same machine.
Heatgun is safer :)
My disc is a 12" Shopsmith, which is aluminum. Would you recommend holding heat on that?
Use a hair dryer on low setting. you just want to get it warm.
@@joederue2392 Interesting. Next time I’ll give it a try.
Thanks for showing us that it's better to just take the table off. lol
i guess it is quite off topic but do anybody know of a good site to stream newly released movies online?
@Trevor Louis Flixportal :D
@Dillon Hudson Thanks, I went there and it seems to work =) Appreciate it !!
@Trevor Louis happy to help :D
Holy cow, 30 years I been changing PSA discs and never knew that. Wonderful, thanks.
Fantastic. Thank you.
Very Helpful. Thanks!,
Very helpful thank you
Dear David, if you change over to felt-backed discs you never need to struggle with sticky backed discs again. You put the hook disc on your plate and fix the felt backed sandpaper discs to the hooked base. The best thing is that changing discs, for instance to change grit, is a breeze. Cut a piece of plain paper into two half circles. Lift your paper from the plate, slip in a half circle and rotate 180 degrees. Lift the half circle to remove. Installing a new disc is just as simple. Place both plain circle halves on your disc. Place the felt-backed paper and align accurately to the whole circle edge. Remove half template, rotate 180 degrees and remove final template. Voila! The whole process takes less than two minutes. Cheers.
Could you provide a video of this procedure? Would be helpful.
i haven't watched one of his videos in a while but the first thing i remembered when watching this video was that there was a lot of info and no fluff
Just what I needed to know how..... cheers
First time viewer and newest subscriber. Great video excellent tip
Thank you!!!
Nice and clear instructions - well done :)
Is it possible and safe to convert the metal disk to use Velcro sanding disks?
Thanks for doing this follow up David :D
Thank you
Just out of curiosity, did you turn it on and rub the rag against it to clean it?
What brand sand disk you use? I have a problem looking for sand paper disk that sticks.
Thanks.
I have a Delta disc/belt sander and it keep throwing the adhesive sanding disc. What can be used to prevent this?
Try a big propane torch, should peal right off, I do that with smaller disc, easy.
Even easier, take the new disk and using a razor blade scor the backing in the middle and peal 1/2 off, then when you peal the old disk off take the backing from the new disk and slip it on the old disk and rotate and peal off. No bending. then on the new disk simply slide the half with the backing down attach the exposed top rotate and peal off the other 1/2 of backing, all done.
Hi how do you feel about hook and loop discs
I like them on my random orbit sander, but for use on a disc sander I'm usually looking for a fairly flat and crisp pressure. Hook and look adds padding (though slight) to the process and gives a more cushioned (and less desirable in this case) pressure on the wood. My two cents. Thanks for the question! - DT
I use my heat gun and it works great
Urg, Now I'm a Master sanding disk paper changer.😂
I noticed the sheet said Metalite! Is that intended for metal or does it matter? Thumzup #75!
Mine always rip. It's like taking an adhesive price tag off of something. It comes off in teeny tiny little scraps of paper. A putty knife helps, but it's a struggle.
Hi guys I'm going crazy trying to find the right peel and stick pads for my ryobi dual belt and disk sander. Can anyone tell me what are some good pads that have a good strong backing for a 6 inch disk made in usa? I looked at diablos 6 inch stick fast but the reviews said the disc flies right off when you turn on the sander... Thanks guys!
What machine make and model is that?
Alternatively, to remove, you can use some old, worn tin snips or metal shears to cut the loose half of the disc off, then rotate the disc 180º degrees and remove the rest. VM&P Naphtha also cuts many adhesives. FLAMMABLE! Outside or use a fan nearby.
Small and compact
I change them all the time. Hair dryer loosens the glue Nd pops right off.
What about using heat? Heat gun?
Personally, for the part that I had already peeled off, I would have stuck a shop towel or a mail flyer (piece of junk mail) in between it before spinning the wheel.
Heat gun...works EVERY time. THEN use your laquer thinner to clean the plate of adhesive.
I had no idea you could remove those sanding discs, I end up just selling the machine and buying a new one.
Given how much of a pain in the arse this is -and it always is- I'm surprised nobody has thought of something better, like a detachable, ejectable disc. You could even have a few live discs with different grits on the go at once, just swapping them in like band-sander paper. I'd buy one.
That's what I was thinking watching this! Maybe with a swing-away table for cartridge replacement.
That’s what a Shopsmith is for. You can get extra discs and change them easy as pie. I keep one for metalwork and one for wood. The other great thing is that the table is larger than the ones you find on just about any other 12 inch sander and since you move the disc instead of the workpiece it’s excellent for fine work.
I always thought having a disc with two grits would be useful. Rougher grit on the inside half of the disc, finer grit on the outside. Two-in-one, at least! - DT
I would have started the disk sander to clean off the gunk with super speed. Is that dumb? I can't think of why it would be dumb but i make sure to question my own intellect
I add a peace of paper
I am cheap. I use an old tennis shoe sole to clean the belt on my belt sander.
in next episode... how to use a toothpick properly...
In a teaching video, especially, you really should be using eye protection during that 'erasing' bit. Also, nitrile gloves and a respirator while handling the lacquer thinner.
There is a point of over protection.
Skilled woodworkers don't go to that extreme! We'd never get anything done!!😅
*Significantly increases my production time specially on sanding curves **MyBest.Tools** which i do manually with dremel before. Wish this is locally available in my country. Cheers.*
thank you
thank you