I had the same Marantz years ago, same mechanism and chasis but not an audio deck but a deck for computer data transfer rec/play. I removed the board and installed an AIWA deck card and works like a charm. good mechanism.
Nice deck John and easy simple repair! As far as adjusting the speed of the deck, search on YT for tones, find one that is at least 10 min long, or if you have a tone generator, create your own, record it to cassette, then play back that tone, grab a guitar tuner and check to see if the tone is correct, if not then adjust accordingly, hope that helps some! Regards, Jack
Hey can you give more details on how you unscrewed that lower screw to remove the fly wheel? The one you referred to as being ‘a pain’... No way to reach it with a standard screw driver.... Thanks a MILLION :))).
Great video, thank you very much. I wish I could find a video that's simple, but well informed like this one for my Akai CS-50 Invert-O-Matic! Hope you're well. :)
Nice repair, I notice it is a two speed deck. I presume this would vastly improve the quality at the higher speed, but would probably halve the playing time?
+markpirateuk That's the theory. I haven't set it up for recording but I might try it to see if I can tell the difference when playing back at the higher speed.
Thank you for the video. I have a Marantz 5000 cassette deck which is very similar to yours. I have two questions I hope you can help me with. The first is I changed the belts and idler tires and afterwords when I press the rewind switch it does not auto stop or pop back up when the tape has reached the end. The auto stop/pop up feature works for play and ff. Second question is do you know what is the replacement bulb for the record light?
Hi Travis, to my knowledge these decks do not feature auto-stop. You can download the service manual from hifiengine.com and check for your model. Mine does not auto-stop. I did not have to replace the record light so don't know what type it is but again the manual will provide the details on that. Cheers, John
Did you have to put a resistor in for the LEDs that are in series? Or I guess you could put in a trim pot to adjust the brightness to match the rest of your components.
I always wonder why people solder in standaard 5mm leds. I use warm white (or other color) SMD leds. 4 in series is about the size of the old bulb and the light they provide is far more evenly distributed. Getting them soldered is a little tricky though...
+Bart Zuidgeest Well I guess I went with what I know. I did investigate SMD LED's but as I didn't have any to hand, and I wanted to get it done this weekend, I went with what I had. Of course, thanks to the feedback from you guys I now know I have other options such as SMD LED's - and the original lamps are also available. Cheers, John
Years ago when I had my own HiFi shop we sold a UK made NEAL cassette deck which played only at 3.75 ips. The sound was outstanding. Yes it did half the running time of the cassette but a C120 worked well. I hope you will report on how this deck sounds. The lamps were dipped in a ink of some kind but it soon burned off leaving the normal yellow of a typical filament lamp.
+Michael Beeny Hi Michael, thanks for the info re the lamps. I've been giving it a good soak testing today and it sounds wonderful. I'll confess I didn't check out the record function as I have no intention of creating new tapes. I got it to listen to all the tapes I've accumulated over the years. However I might try and make a recording at the high speed to see if I can hear a difference. I'll post an update if that works out. Cheers, John
That's what an eight track or a slower speed reel to reel would run at so I'm not surprised that the sound quality would be much better then the 1-7/8'' IPS that compact cassettes typically run at.
I found some bulbs like that on ebay. Just search for vu meter bulb, and take your pick. I ordered a pack of 2 frosted ones for an old Akai GX-625 reel to reel in my retro collection. In my case the VU meters where fine but the bulb in the counter circuit was bad.
i have the 1015 model i changed the belts also but i noticed when playing my vu meters stay still half of the display. it doesnt move. but when i tap the outside with my fingers they move to flat positon. any ideas why?
Could be either a mechanical problem where the needles are fouling on the case or an electrical connection that is driving the VU meters intermittently. If both meters behave the same way I'd look for a bad connection problem first.
That sounds like they are just getting mechanically stuck ... put a tiny amount of oil ... a toothpick dipped in oil and rake just about all of it back off then touch the pivot points on the meters ... be extremely careful of the surrounding parts there is a return spring you don't want to bend
Good afternoon. First of all, congratulations on your videos. They are my oracle of wisdom. I wanted to ask you a question. I have a Marantz SD1000 and I have maintained it following your steps. In principle everything is fine, fast forward and rewind perfect, but when I press play it does not advance. The head does not move. It's driving me crazy... do you have any idea what could be happening?
If the head does not move when you press play this sounds like a mechanical problem. Do you have a copy of the manual? Does the play button latch when you press it? I think you're going to have to examine the mechanism in detail to see whether something is blocking the head assembly from moving - or if something is broken so that the play button is not connecting to the head assembly.
@@Zone1242 Thank you so much!!! The head rises and positions itself in the correct position. Everything seems normal. The play button works correctly. The engine also starts and acts on the clutches. As you say, I'll look at the manual to see if something mechanical is wrong. thank you so much
I hate to sound smart elecs but I had the best marantz tape deck that I had bought in Germany, makes that one there look like a toy. Speakers ,tuner, amp and equalizer the whole shebang. And so I lost it in a pawn shop in 1985, boy did that really piss me off
Agreed - planned obsolescence has long since taken over. Alas mine will be back on the bench one of these days as it does not record. Originally I had no intention of using it to record but I changed my mind and when I tested it I found it doesn't work. Hopefully it won't be anything too serious.
I'm gonna say most likely the record play switch is dirty spray it with contact cleaner a work the switch about 20 times or so and give a recording a try ... some machines will have a static type sound and cause the peak meters to peg but a good cleaning of the switch will in most cases clear those things right up
I just bought the same tape deck. It's not bad, but the left channel has about 10%-20% lower output than the right. Tried cleaning the heads and the helped only a bit. Is there any way to calibrate left/right channel output to remedy this? It's definitely not the VU meters btw, as I've tested the speakers with a dB meter externally and the VUs are reading correctly.
I had the same Marantz years ago, same mechanism and chasis but not an audio deck but a deck for computer data transfer rec/play. I removed the board and installed an AIWA deck card and works like a charm. good mechanism.
Nice deck John and easy simple repair! As far as adjusting the speed of the deck, search on YT for tones, find one that is at least 10 min long, or if you have a tone generator, create your own, record it to cassette, then play back that tone, grab a guitar tuner and check to see if the tone is correct, if not then adjust accordingly, hope that helps some! Regards, Jack
Hey can you give more details on how you unscrewed that lower screw to remove the fly wheel? The one you referred to as being ‘a pain’... No way to reach it with a standard screw driver.... Thanks a MILLION :))).
Great video, thank you very much. I wish I could find a video that's simple, but well informed like this one for my Akai CS-50 Invert-O-Matic! Hope you're well. :)
Hi what type of led do i have to buy? Can you link it?
What's the voltage?
Enjoyed this one, John! Throw some Bachman-Turner Overdrive "Let it Ride" next time!!
Hey Tim, OK will try to set that up. Sorry for the delay - my main PC had some major hardware issues - all is now finally rebuilt.
Cheers, John
Will this demo work on a marantz SD 1000 ?
If you mean replacing the belts then I see no reason why it would not work.
Good video. Thank you for sharing with us.
+MDF RESCUER Thanks. The benefit for me is lots of comments where folks share their way of doing things - means I learn more as I go along :-)
Nice repair, I notice it is a two speed deck. I presume this would vastly improve the quality at the higher speed, but would probably halve the playing time?
+markpirateuk That's the theory. I haven't set it up for recording but I might try it to see if I can tell the difference when playing back at the higher speed.
Thank you for the video. I have a Marantz 5000 cassette deck which is very similar to yours. I have two questions I hope you can help me with. The first is I changed the belts and idler tires and afterwords when I press the rewind switch it does not auto stop or pop back up when the tape has reached the end. The auto stop/pop up feature works for play and ff.
Second question is do you know what is the replacement bulb for the record light?
Hi Travis, to my knowledge these decks do not feature auto-stop. You can download the service manual from hifiengine.com and check for your model. Mine does not auto-stop. I did not have to replace the record light so don't know what type it is but again the manual will provide the details on that.
Cheers, John
Nice vid. BTY they make liquid glass dyes so you could have any color lighting bulb you want.
Thanks, nice to know. Luckily I'm happy with the warm white.
Cheers, John
Did you have to put a resistor in for the LEDs that are in series? Or I guess you could put in a trim pot to adjust the brightness to match the rest of your components.
I put a fixed resistor in series - can't remember the value though - it was a while ago...
I always wonder why people solder in standaard 5mm leds. I use warm white (or other color) SMD leds. 4 in series is about the size of the old bulb and the light they provide is far more evenly distributed. Getting them soldered is a little tricky though...
+Bart Zuidgeest Well I guess I went with what I know. I did investigate SMD LED's but as I didn't have any to hand, and I wanted to get it done this weekend, I went with what I had. Of course, thanks to the feedback from you guys I now know I have other options such as SMD LED's - and the original lamps are also available.
Cheers, John
Years ago when I had my own HiFi shop we sold a UK made NEAL cassette deck which played only at 3.75 ips. The sound was outstanding. Yes it did half the running time of the cassette but a C120 worked well. I hope you will report on how this deck sounds.
The lamps were dipped in a ink of some kind but it soon burned off leaving the normal yellow of a typical filament lamp.
+Michael Beeny Hi Michael, thanks for the info re the lamps. I've been giving it a good soak testing today and it sounds wonderful. I'll confess I didn't check out the record function as I have no intention of creating new tapes. I got it to listen to all the tapes I've accumulated over the years. However I might try and make a recording at the high speed to see if I can hear a difference. I'll post an update if that works out.
Cheers, John
That's what an eight track or a slower speed reel to reel would run at so I'm not surprised that the sound quality would be much better then the 1-7/8'' IPS that compact cassettes typically run at.
I found some bulbs like that on ebay. Just search for vu meter bulb, and take your pick. I ordered a pack of 2 frosted ones for an old Akai GX-625 reel to reel in my retro collection. In my case the VU meters where fine but the bulb in the counter circuit was bad.
+Beast Oldone Just goes to show the importance of the search wording - I tried miniature bulb and nothing suitable showed up.
I have been using marantz sd-1000. This is so good sound. One disappointment is that the mechanical devices are weak, so there is a lot of noise.
Аппарат мечта!👍
Good
thanks for making this video
my pleasure - still gets lots of use.......
i have the 1015 model i changed the belts also but i noticed when playing my vu meters stay still half of the display. it doesnt move. but when i tap the outside with my fingers they move to flat positon. any ideas why?
Could be either a mechanical problem where the needles are fouling on the case or an electrical connection that is driving the VU meters intermittently. If both meters behave the same way I'd look for a bad connection problem first.
That sounds like they are just getting mechanically stuck ... put a tiny amount of oil ... a toothpick dipped in oil and rake just about all of it back off then touch the pivot points on the meters ... be extremely careful of the surrounding parts there is a return spring you don't want to bend
Amigo, preciso do Manual de Serviço do tape deck Marantz 1030, vc teria?
Oi, você pode encontrar manuais e esquemas em hifiengine.com
Correção - eles não parecem ter aquele - eu vou continuar procurando ...
Good afternoon. First of all, congratulations on your videos. They are my oracle of wisdom.
I wanted to ask you a question. I have a Marantz SD1000 and I have maintained it following your steps. In principle everything is fine, fast forward and rewind perfect, but when I press play it does not advance. The head does not move. It's driving me crazy... do you have any idea what could be happening?
If the head does not move when you press play this sounds like a mechanical problem. Do you have a copy of the manual? Does the play button latch when you press it? I think you're going to have to examine the mechanism in detail to see whether something is blocking the head assembly from moving - or if something is broken so that the play button is not connecting to the head assembly.
@@Zone1242 Thank you so much!!!
The head rises and positions itself in the correct position. Everything seems normal. The play button works correctly.
The engine also starts and acts on the clutches.
As you say, I'll look at the manual to see if something mechanical is wrong.
thank you so much
@@juancarlosrs3681 So does the pinch wheel touch the capstan and do both rotate when play is engaged?
W tym magnetofonie ważne jest ,by prawidłowo ustawić koło pasowe ,tak żeby lekko się obracało i było idealnie ustawione do osi
It seems to be well aligned and is playing nicely - it gets used almost every day :-)
I hate to sound smart elecs but I had the best marantz tape deck that I had bought in Germany, makes that one there look like a toy. Speakers ,tuner, amp and equalizer the whole shebang. And so I lost it in a pawn shop in 1985, boy did that really piss me off
I have the 1050. Looks similar love it keep I they don't make that quality nymore
Agreed - planned obsolescence has long since taken over. Alas mine will be back on the bench one of these days as it does not record. Originally I had no intention of using it to record but I changed my mind and when I tested it I found it doesn't work. Hopefully it won't be anything too serious.
I'm gonna say most likely the record play switch is dirty spray it with contact cleaner a work the switch about 20 times or so and give a recording a try ... some machines will have a static type sound and cause the peak meters to peg but a good cleaning of the switch will in most cases clear those things right up
تحذير تحذير المسجل كاسيت رجع ترى ممتحدث سنة ٢٠٢٠/2030 إلى الاخير مع اغاني جربتها جربتها جربتها اكول حبي جربتها
Alas, my translator did not do a very good job at translating your comment so I cannot give a meaningful reply....
I just bought the same tape deck. It's not bad, but the left channel has about 10%-20% lower output than the right. Tried cleaning the heads and the helped only a bit. Is there any way to calibrate left/right channel output to remedy this? It's definitely not the VU meters btw, as I've tested the speakers with a dB meter externally and the VUs are reading correctly.
If you have a schematic then you might try checking voltages to compare each channel. Failing that I'd say head azimuth alignment is worth checking.
@@Zone1242 Yes, I do have the schematic. Will do! Thanks!