Common Causes for Oil Loss/Consumption in your Supercharged Audi 3.0T | (B8 S4/S5/SQ5 | C7 A6/A7)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- This video should walk you through the most common common issues on the Audi 3.0T that result in either Oil Loss, or Oil Consumption. There are obviously other places oil could leak from, but they are exceedingly rare. Check out the video, and let me know your thoughts.
Remove spark plugs. Fill cylinders with GM Top End Cleaner so that the piston is completely covered. Let soak over the weekend. You can turn the engine by hand every so often. The top end cleaner will clean deposits and free up the rings. Suck out remainder and the crank engine with starter while you have rags shoved in plug tubes. Install spark plugs when you're sure the cylinders are empty of fluid. Add LiguiMoly oil flush to engine and run for 20 minutes. Immediately change oil. Has worked for many cars to reduce consumption for me.
Being new to German-car ownership, having a 2018 A6 for just a few months, I've found your videos to be an excellent source of very useful information for DIYers like myself! Thank you!
Thank you 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
I started watching when I had a 2013 3.0T Q5. Then I got a 2016 3.0T A6 after the Q5 was totaled in an accident. I decided I needed an SUV again and got a 2017 3.0T Q7. Q5 took a liter a week. A6 had no oil issues. Q7 needed a liter a few days after I bought it. Hopefully that’s just the dealer using cheap oil or under filling by a bit. Revisiting this video to help diagnose.
I have the same issue with by 2014 Audi A6, I realize that after checking the oil level virtually, it always seems to deplete a lot faster with normal leisure driving. I had to change my oil like every month and a half to two months depending on how frequently I drive it.
Maybe I will consider changing the type of oil that I’m using. Thanks for your knowledge, and I’m glad to have found the perfect source for knowledge in the Audi community.
I think I’m in the same boat. My MMI oil level moved up or down every week, did my second oil change after 3000 miles with motul but now it’s losing oil faster(I have a dipstick now). Any update on what you did/ what worked?
My A4 B8 had the 1l per 1000km oil issue. I got the engine replaced via warranty and since then no issues. I own the car since 2010 & have done 190,000km.
Nice to meet you!!
I always enjoy watching your videos.
I am driving an A7 3.0T. The accumulated mileage is 140,000 km.
The engine oil used was Castrol 5W30 LL VW504, 507 standard, and 1 liter was consumed for about 7,000km.
I am using "Helix Ultra 0w40" because someone said that if you use the 502 standard, you can ride up to 10,000 km without supplementation. (It is 502 standard in the manufacturer's manual, but 504 standard oil is in circulation due to the launch of new cars)
It seems to be a little better because of its high viscosity, and it consumes less than the 504 standard.
The parts that can be observed from the outside of the engine are the oil filter housing gasket, timing chain cover, rocker arm cover, crankshaft retainer, and oil drain plug gasket.
(Of course, you should also pay attention to the oil lines (oil coolers) exposed to the outside. As time goes by, it is the number one priority for old age.)
In particular, oil filter housing gasket leaks are often misunderstood as they flow to the crankshaft retainer!!!
If it is not observed from the outside of the engine and is consumed, the valve stem seal, piston oil ring, and cylinder wear are most likely as you said.
In case of cylinder wear, it is thought that it is possible to visually check the spark plug with an endoscope by disassembling it.
Above are my thoughts.
It seems that Audi vehicles cannot be free from coolant leaks and oil leaks. :(
All cars are prone to leaks if you keep them a long time. Good info 👍🏻
Hey, I have a 2015 audi a6 prestige. I never had any issue with the vehicle until last year with the the oil consumption. Had the pcv change and still was loosing oil. After a few mth took it to audi for the oil consumption test they determined that it was the piston seals ring. A mechanic of mines who deal with these German vehicles alot didnt really see any wrong with my car. He told me to try a thicker oil which made a big difference. The only thing I'm wonder is if when the shop I went to, to do the pcv if they did it properly where you had demonstrated in terms of all what needed to be done. Love the car. Have for 4 yrs now and that's the issue I'm having. The car runs great.
It's hard to mess up a pcv install but it isn't impossible. Hopefully you get it sorted. Glad you are enjoying the car though!
Good day. What size oil & brand you switch to? I have 2015 3.0t Q5 and add 1qt every 1500miles. I see steady 6inch oil circle on ground after hour of driving. What type of leak you think?
Thanks
@@AudiC7Owners that question was for you lol
Currently in running liqui moly 5w-40, but I'm about to go back to Rowe, and I'm going to try their 10w-60.
You feed to get your car inspected with that big of a leak
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your well reasoned and thorough videos here. My 2014 stock A7 has 118k miles and due for service. I will do it myself as usual. I see some oil consumption but only once was it as much as one quart between changes. That’s was probably two or three ago. I replaced PCV and water pump etc about 10k miles ago.
Thank you 🙌🏻
Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is EXCELLENT for these engines + CeraTec. Seen 14k oil change intervals done with this - which I would NOT recommend but it shows!
Awesome video! Can vouch for vast performance valve cover kit, valve covers are easy-ish to remove, the rear bottom torx are not the most fun to get to, have to get creative.
Thanks man! Got any tips on accessing those?
Yo my dude, your vid made my head spin, packed with valuable C7 knowledge. I have a 2013 A7 and had not had a single issue, absolutely bullet proof. I'm currently at 40k miles, although I'm showing any fault codes, where do I start replacing parts as part of interval maintenance? Great video !
Thanks man! Most people don't replace parts until there is a failure requiring it. But some people elect to replace things as a precaution if they are already under the charger (IE choosing to replace your water pump & Thermostat if you are already replacing your pcv)
on the pcv test removing the oil filler cap engine running . How much I have some suction making it want to stay on but not difficult to remove the cap. Also when I do that seems to be a metallic sound louder than what I would expect wondering if this is typical ?
My stage 1 3.0t a7 which is driven mostly in sport mode just got a low oil warning after 3000 miles since last oil change.
How many miles does it have?
Yellow light ? Just top off / red light = bad and stop the motor
I use pentosin performance ll, been running it for years. Also great oil
My 2013 c7 avant was burning about 800ml after every 7,000 mile service. Used castrol edge ll with 130k miles no leaks.
Don’t forget to check your vacuum pump and oil filter housing gasket
Our A6 used to get about 7k miles before I had to add a quart of oil, with 10k oil changes. Now it is right at 1 quart every 5k. Will plan on switching oil. Have been using Castrol. Will switch to Moly and add some Lucas stabilizer.
The problem there is you did 10k oil changes. Awful for the car. Gotta do 5k max.
@@AudiC7Owners I'm back, switching to 5k oil changes. After last oil change and using Lucas Oil Stabilizer, already having to add oil at just 2700 miles. That seems excessive and a huge increase from what I've seen in the past. Starting to get worried about it.
Have you checked to make sure your pcv is good and that you aren't leaking oil from valve cover gaskets?
What oil did you use?
@Audi C7 Owners used the last of the Castrol 5W 30 I had on the shelf. Ordered Liquid Molly for next change. Looked everywhere for oil leaks and no real signs of anything that would cause this much loss in so few miles. Stupid PCV constantly fails. If anything is the culprit it would likely be that.
Castrol isn't a great oil. You should see improvement with LM
I'm accumulating oil around the PCV I saw this the last time I had the supercharger off this is a new PCV about a year ago I sucked up that oil and I thought it was the transfer tube from the supercharger to the PCV I replaced that but yet here it is again I love any suggestions where that could be coming from
I forgot to add it's a 2012 Audi Q7 3.0 tfsi engine
During the cold start i see white smoke from the Exhaust i have test pipe, but i dont have coolant leak
That's just moisture inside the exhaust condensating
Great video, Is it possible to check the "check valve" to see if it is good without removing the supercharger? I already have changed the PCV but still burning 1L every 800 to 1k miles. The check valve you mentioned is a highly suspicious part now. Thanks a lot
If your check valve is bad, you should still be getting a pcv code when you scan your car.
@@AudiC7Owners There is no code at all even before changing the PCV. Is it possible to use a vacuum tester or pressure tester to test the valve? Do you know the working pattern of the valve? Thank you
Not that I'm aware of. But if you are going to take everything apart to test it, You might as well just replace it.
@@AudiC7Owners Do you know the part number or official name of the check valve? I called the local dealership, the guy who answers the phone know nothing about the valve and can not locate the part in their system. What I trying to do is to order a new part and learn the new part's operating principle and comparing to the old one to see if I have to replace it. Removing the supercharger is a time consuming job, I want to avoid this job. Thank you for your reply.
Check out my video on pcv tips & tricks. All the part numbers are in the description.
As always very informative. Just something else I have to worry about now. Fml.
😂😂
It isn't that big of an issue. But the more you are aware, the more you can prevent them & the earlier you can detect them to repair.
My 2017 c7.5 put on 60,000kms do my own oil changes have not had any burning oil issues so far
Good to hear 👍🏻
I love the Intake Pipe Setup
Thanks!
Great video. My CCAA 3.0T exhibits the same smoking on decel as you're experiencing. I've long suspected the stem seals as you suggest. In fact, I tried running a synthetic 20w-50 and my consumption went from 700 mi / liter to over 2,000 mi. My theory, too, is that the direct injection design allows carbon to collect up the stems, causing abrasion of the seals over time. It's gotta be the seals. Thx!
Why do did it start consuming more with the 20w-50
@@juanc8462 It didn't consume more. I believe he meant it used to consume a liter every 700 miles. After the 20w-50, it burned a liter every 2,000 miles. That's what I deducted from his explanation
When diagnosing the PCV valve issue, how hard of a vacuum should be felt by hand over the engine fill port? Should there always be a slight vacuum felt or no vacuum?
These are pressurized systems. There is always vacuum. You cannot assess the PCV via the vacuum. You need to scan the car for PCV codes.
I've got a 2015 S4 which is losing a quart of oil every 150-200 miles. Ridiculous. I think it's the PCV because it had vacuum when I took the oil cap off. QUESTION: Is it doing damage to the car if I continue to drive it until I can take it to a shop (in 2 weeks)?
Your car will always have vacuum when the engine is running. If you pulled off the oil cap while it was running and you heard a loud whistle noise and then that might be an indication of PCV failure. If your PCV is bad then you are burning oil which can damage your catalytic converters
Can you do a pcv delete on a 2017 Q7 .. by putting a APR catch can .. and can I leave the Pcv valve in the motor and just bypass it.. I don’t want to take the motor apart
No. You cannot delete the pcv or bypass it without creating problems for your engine.
You are on point perfect explanation bro
Thanks man!
How tight are the bearing tolerances in these motors that they can’t run with regular off the shelf oil?
Euro stuff imported might be different but in the Us all the oil comes from only a couple refineries and then specific brands have their detergents added
Hi man do you have any part number for that chack valve , because i can’t find it . I want to order pcv and check valve but i cant find chack valve thanks
Great video bro, liked and subscribed.
Thank you! 🙌🏻
Hello guys, I just recently purchased a 2016 a6 3.0 at a bmw dealership and I was wondering if there was anybody located near Los Angeles to give my engine a good check because I’ve never owned a German car before and I just want to makesure nothing wrong with the engine because it seems to burn oil fast but I haven’t found a leak.
I sue amsoil and a molly additive my oil leaks and consumption went up after I started using the additive but I don't think is has any thing to do with it.
Burning a liter on liquimoly every 300 miles , already did timing chain covers , valve cover gaskets , pcv , no visible leaks , I really hope this isn’t piston rings
Do a compression test
hello and thank you for your videos, on my S5 2010 CAKA engine, I have empty catalysts, I think I have had the same problem as you for a long time, I have smoke at the exhaust outlets only when decelerating, I consume now 1 liter of oil for 1600 kms,
I changed the PCV and the PCV pipe with non-return valve, the valve cover gaskets, I put liqui moly 5W40, no leaks anywhere, compressions between 12.2 and 13 bars, not having a compressor, I don't I haven't done a leak test, always the same oil consumption which drives me crazy at every red light, at stop signs, at roundabouts
please, what test can I do to find out if it comes from the piston rings or the valve stem seals? thanks in advance
I have the piston ring issue. Are there any Updated pistons and rings like for the 2.0Tfsi?
I'm not aware of any, but if you message AM Tuned they could tell you
Thank you very much for that video. Is it possible to change/check the breather hose without disassembling the supercharger and the other stuff underneath?
To replace the pcv check valve you have to remove your supercharger.
@@AudiC7Owners Thanks mate for that quick response. Didn't expect that :)
Hey sir! Can you send me/ steer me to a good link for torque settings? Doing a bunch of stuff on my 199K 2013. PCV, oil filter housing, valve covers, cleaning supercharger bricks, plugs, coils, hoses, water pump & belts....just a little tune up.
Thanks for all the great videos!
Most of my diy's haven them, but Fcp euro diy's have torque specs in them as well 👌🏼
Great video (I have the exact engine) - It would be very helpful if you can have a video on PCV replacement and its components, or just show us the parts and part numbers so it's clear to us... PLEASE, Thanks!
I have a video called "pcv tips & tricks". Check that out & rear the description of that video for part numbers.
@@AudiC7Owners Thank you 🙂
Both timing chain solenoid valve o-ring seals were leaking on mine. Realized this a couple of days after replacing both valve cover gaskets but still seeing oil on the ground.
Can I change the inline filter/ pcv breather hose without taking off the supercharger?
No. It is clamped to your pcv underneath the supercharger.
where did you get your oil dipstick from? I have a 2012 a7 and wanted to get an actual dipstick and not just rely on the MMI to check the level.
@@jasondaniels-r8y I got mine from fcp euro
@@AudiC7Owners When i checked FCP Euro none popped up for the 2012. Wouldnt it be the same as the one you purchased , as they both have the same engines?
Yep
What were the 3 premium oils again? Tks
Motul, liqui moly, rowe
I really appreciate your amount of information you provide
I generally see the car smoking stopped idling and a large puff of smoke when I take off.
If the timing chain covers are leaking, which mine are, isn't that an engine out job to deal with? I'm not really seeing any oil loss, but I could see the covers covered in oil.
A shop familiar with these engines can do them in the car
@@AudiC7Owners that's great to here. Thank you.
Great job on the vids. Only thing missing is the mileage on your A6?
As of today my mileage is at 126k 👍🏻
What oil filter would you recommend for the 2016 3.0 T 333 hp CREC. I may try the Liqui Moly cause I don’t trust the dealer at this point. Checked my MMI and oil capacity is below 1/2 gotta keep an eye on it. Less than 5k between changes.
I only use oem or meyle filters. Nothing wrong with them.
Do you have a reputable source for good used engines for these cars?
Lifetime Audi Parts
Lkq
AutoHaas
I dont believe bad exhaust stem seals will show up in compression test . They don't create a seal for the engine combustion chamber . The valve seat cerates the seal for cylinder , the stem seal reduces or stops oil from seeping onto the valve seat. The valve guide generally a softer metal act to keep the valve aligned properly and the stem seal restricts oil from going where it should not go. A bad stem seal will allow oil to go onto the valve seat and into the cylinder and be burnt.
I have a 2013 Audi s5 that I just recently purchased it’s high mileage and I got a low oil light after driving back roads in sport goin 70+
The more aggressive you drive the car the more oil it will burn. If it's high mileage with a bad service history you might have some issues. Also, if it's bad quality oil or will burn faster too
you mentioned you gutted your cats, i have also gutted mine and now there is a lot of vibration/resonance rattling sounds coming directly from the hollowed cats on cold starts and under load. Did you notice anything like this when you did yours? I've checked and there is no exhaust leaks or pieces of cat stuck anywhere. My theory is that the hollow chamber disrupts airflow causing the rattling noise. I'm thinking of installing canauto performance test pipes to hopefully get rid of this sound but i'm worried they will be way to loud and raspy.
Gutting mine didn't really in any extra vibration or anything. Your flex pipe could be worn out on your mid pipes & need to be replaced. That is a common failure
@@AudiC7Owners thats weird, I have brand new CTS downpipes/flex pipes, any other ideas what it could be?
Make sure your exhaust isn't hitting the car body at all. Make sure all your heat shielding is secure as well.
Hey. I cant find the part number at the “check valve” not in this video or in the PCV video. Thanks
It is actually listed in the description of our pcv tips & tricks video.
I just bought a s4 2014 last week.from a.dealership. car recomend me to add 1 quarter of oil. The oil leak was coming from left side of the car from the front any ideas what you think it is
Passenger side ? Probably your vc gaskets
If I’m in the market for an A7. How can I buy one knowing that it doesn’t or won’t have consumption issues?
You can't really know what will happen to the engine in the future, but if you want to know its current state, you need to do various tests. Compression and leakdown tests are two that come to mind.
I have the exact same blue smoke issue that you had.
Was it definitely your exhaust stem seals that failed? Thanks chris
Part of it ended up being leaking valve cover gaskets, but I do still see some blue smoke when in high rpms under deceleration & I give it gas. That points to exhaust valve stem seals
I'm frustrated after spending £5000 at an engine shop for timing chain kit, flush, walnut carbon clean, new PCV, new supercharger cooler, front suspension and engine mounts - my engine is much noisier (almost like a diesel) and burning through 1L every 800 miles. Before this both my timing covers were leaking at a rate of 1L per 1000 miles. Last night my engine let go at top of 4th gear, won't even crank and when attempted to start I get a loud clicking noise from engine bay (right side of block) and the dash & MMI will switch off and back on. Removed battery which is reading 8.4v probably from too many start attempts, new replacement tomorrow but I'm starting to wonder wtf did they do, my engine was running smoothly despite being modified for the last 50k of it's 87k mile life. ffs. No engine codes, no smoke during acceleration, no warning and I change oil at 5k with Millers NT+ 5w40, always monitoring everything via obd
Damn dude. It definitely sounds like they didn't have the timing correct. Good luck man.
So if the suction is strong when u try to open the oil filler cap the pcv valve is bad??
There is always suction as it is a pressurized system. If the suction is incredibly strong then it may be a faulty pcv.
pls help. so i’m having major oil consumption. about a quart every 500-800 miles. fresh pcv and liquid moly oil used in the car. it’s got 150k with cats still in but it does not go in limp mode or anything. no cel, no miss, but today i notice a lil smoke on start up. what do you think? valve seals or piston rings? maybe a leak on top of it all?
With that much consumption I'd be checking for a leak
my car is burning oil like crazy every 4 day’s probably 300 miles or so, pcv was replaced few years back, VCG was replaced a month ago. car is at 145,000 miles. My exhaust tips are pitch black. what could cause this? and how much would it be?
You need to scan your car to see if your pcv has failed again. Otherwise you need to go into a shop to get a compression test done.
Thank you very much, thats exactly my current Issue, I'm burning Oil like crazy, around 1 Liter on 700 km, depends how I am driving, I haven't modified the engine in any way. The first thing I did was let the mechanic replace my pcv valve, now the suction on the oil cap is gone, but I have the feeling that with that I consume even more oil, it feels like before I was burning about 1 Liter on 1200-1500 km. As far I am aware the mechanic hasn't replaced the valve on the pcv. He also sayed that the there was no carbon built up before the intake valves (the car has about 170000 km) and the intake has never been cleaned. Do you have any guess based on these symptoms? Also I don't see exessive smoke on the engine, especially no blue one, but cars behind me say that if I accelerate I'm smoking black and it stinks. Thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english! :)
Black smoke is carbon burning which isn't very concerning. If you have catalytic converters still then you won't see the blue smoke.
I'd scan the car to see if you are still showing pcv fault codes. If you are then your check valve tube needs to be replaced
After that, get a compression test or leak down test to see if there is an issue internally.
@@AudiC7Owners Yes I still have them. I already scanned it there are no fault codes, but before I replaced the PCV there was strong negative pressure, every time I tried to open the cap I needed really to pull with my body and it went out with a loud "blop" sound and there very also no errors. Is there any other way to diagnose that? I really bet on the PCV and explained the clean intake with it, because I tought that maybe the oiled up air getting sucked back in somehow cleaned it or kept it clean. And also found it really suspicious that the oil consumption went up after that repair.
How old is the oil? Did you do a full change after the pcv repair?
@@AudiC7Owners I change the oil every 15.000 km, now it's time to change it. And yes replaced it directly after the pcv repair. But as far as I am aware the previouse owner only drove 30.000 km intervals with the long life oil.
Hey Cam, I have an issue no covered in your video. I did my pcv, water pump and thermostat. Ever since, my 3rd cylinder plug was getting wet with oil intermittently. Couple of thousand miles on, the 1st cylinder joined in. Now it happens almost instantly. Start the car, dry plug becomes wet with oil. Any thoughts?
If oil is getting into your plugs then it is one of two things:
1) The most likely cause is you have leaky valve cover gasket. The fact that both cylinders getting wet are on the same bank supports this. I will have a valve cover gasket diy uploaded soon.
2) Oil is getting past your piston rings.
My money is on the VCG
Actually it’s neither of those things. I chased his issue and it’s very common, everyone suggest valve cover gasket but that’s not the issue.
If you’re getting oil in your spark plug tubes theres a gasket between the cylinder head girdle and the cylinder head.
You’ll need to tear off valve covers then use a tool to lock in the CAMs then remove the cylinder head girdle and look under it, theres 3 rings per side each for the spark plug tube. Stupid design but yea they go bad and leak into your tubes, I’m changing mine soon
That is something that is extremely rare. The vcg's are much more likely to be the issue & far cheaper to check/change before you open up the head (which most people can't/won't diy)
@@AudiC7Owners you know I thought it was rare too until I started looking into the issue and everyone suggests VCG only for the issue to reappear. It’s not until you take off the cylinder head girdle that you see the 3 spark plug tube gaskets and usually they’re so brittle they’re cracked. Basically if you have oil in your tubes I’d say it’s 75% the girdle gasket and 25% of the time VCG
Good video
Its unusual how you say litre and then miles for distance.
Are you sitting on the fence.
Feel the power of the metric system
Haha. I wish we were on the. Etric system in the states.
But in the German automotive enthusiast community most of our products are listed in metric measurements so that's why we tend to use them.
@@AudiC7Owners Wenn Sie in Deutschland sind, tun Sie, was die Deutschen tun
how often do the oil level sensors fail, i'm at 156k and it's kicked on the low oil light after about 3k but there isn't any evidence of a leak and checking the dipstick shows healthy amount of oil in the engine?
It's rare, but the mmi isn't always accurate. Using the dipstick is the best way to check
10:45 couldn't it be the opposite? We changed the PCV (OE ended with a F) and replaced it (OE ended with H) and it changed from almost no low pressure to a high amout of low pressure. No it's sucking quite hard at the oil cap bit the car feels like having more power than before and it's more responsive. In terms of oil burning i'm not sure at all. Maybe it comes from the piston rings because it's throwing smoke (looks grey to me) when i hit the pedal hard, esp. when shifting and being on the gas straight away. We tried Toralin Anticarbon and we'll see if there's a differencenin the future but i recorgnized the low pressure at the oil cap which makes me wonder.
That breather tube was NOT changed. How can this thing be tested? Maybe that's the issue.
You should definitely change that breather tube if it has never been changed. If it is bad it is creating more vacuum than you need&could be resulting in your current issues. You will have to take it off to treat it, so you should probably just replace it while you are at it.
@@AudiC7Owners Thank you for yout fast response. It's not easy to get a new one immediatly here in Germany. I will order a new one. Is there a quick test like blowing or sucking on one side?
You can try, but I'm not sure how much vacuum is necessary to actuate the check valve. You can also scan your car. If the pcv is new & functioning properly, but you still save a ocv malfunction code, it is more than likely the breather tube
@@AudiC7Owners Just as a response. We checked the breather hose. If we suck it from intake side it closes allt he way, but it's possible to blow in it.
We dislocated the hoses which are plugged into the manifold. There is a harsh vaccum inside the hoses. So the only solution we have is that the membrane inside the pcv is not regulating the pressure so the airflow runs from the supercharger directly through the oil separator without being blocked by the membrane and then sucking hard at the manifold. Maybe because of too much spring pressure. The diaphragm has to be intact because there is no hissing.
Either version H/AC is not for my 2010 S4 (it had F) or it's manufactured badly.
I didn't realize your car was a 2010.Is your car on stock tuning? If so, you have to get a software update from the dealer when channing to a new revision pcv on older 3.0t's like yours
What do you guys think of Dealer oil?
I got to the Audi dealer every 5k miles for an oil change(2013 q7 3.0t)
And still my engine consumes oil more that it should.
Also I got some tapping/fapping noise in the bottom of the engine in winter usually. Only at idle
I'd suggest going somewhere else or doing it yourself. Run Rowe, liqui moly, or motul
Love your channel! Ive got a question not about oil consumption but about the condition of it, ive just done an oil change and checked out the oil filter and found a few metal shavings in between the filter, do you know if this is cause for concern on an a6 c7 3.0t engine with 90k miles
Yes, any time you find metal shavings in your oil that is a huge cause for concern. I'd get an oil sample sent to blackstone immediately, & I'd probably bring that filter to a shop to look at.
How long are you going bergen oil changes, and what kind of oil are you using?
@@AudiC7Owners Im sticking to changing the oil every 5k miles, i dont know what the previous owners maintenance was like as i picked it up with 80k miles on it. Im using pennzoil platinum euro 5w-40 oil.
I'd definitely have it looked at by someone intimate with these cars before driving out much more depending on how much metal you are finding in it
@@AudiC7Owners I only noticed about two flakes that i could see while inspecting the oil filter
I'd just change the oil, use a good 5w-40 like Rowe, & see how it goes in 3-5k miles
I have a problem of excessive oil consumption as you say 1 liter every 1500 but I have already changed the new turbo and the new PCV and it continues to smoke from the exhaust and consume what you think it may be, I am from Mexico and a piston came out compression of 110 psi others at 160psi
Looks like you need to rebuild or replace your motor unfortunately.
Yikes
I have a 2014 a 6 with the 3 l motor. About 79k miles. After my last oil change it burned a qt in less than 1k miles. Dealer said I needed to replace air oil separator. I took to independent shop for the repair due to cost at the dealer. Independent shop agreed and completed the repair for me. They checked cylinder pressures and said everything was normal. When done they told me that the new air oil separator was an updated genuine Audi part and that it should solve my problem, if not and I burn a qt in less than 1000 miles that I should return for ecm update. Has anyone heard of needing ecm update after new air oil separator. I am right at 1k miles and need to add qt. Was going to go get ecm update but wondering if something else might be happening.
Yes you need an ecm update if you got a newer revision pcv if you are on the stock ecm tune.
I got the ecm update and topped off oil yesterday. I will update post in 1k miles on oil consumption. Curious if you could provide more info on the check valve you mentioned or even a part number. I asked the independent shop about it And they didn’t replace it when doing pcv and weren’t exactly sure what I was referring to. Thanks.
does the c7 run the same engine as the a8l 2011?
We're is the check valve could not find it while I was changing the pcv
It comes out of the top of the pcv & extra to the supercharger. Watch the fcp video on replacing the pcv
Vacum pump oil leak. had to reseal my pump was leaking oil on the belt then got slung around.
oil consumption depends on to how aggressive you drive a car
I’m putting a quart of liquid moly in every 500 miles, compression test is good not much smoke even with test pipes. I have two minor leaks from brake booster and oil pan drain plug. Any other ideas? Car feels awesome, I will just keep adding oil I guess.
Every 500 miles & there is no sign of major leaks?
Same with me, small leak on bottom but no idea
Same with mine, any idea what can it be?
What was the high quality engine oils names that he named? It’s was 3 of them
Liqui Moly
Motul
Rowe
Believe me or not, I had sludge on my 3.0T Q5. It was burning 1 quart every 500 miles or less driving normally. I was able to fix it to the point where I have driven 1500 miles and it only has burned less than half a quart. This is driving it very aggressively, taking off at lights, driving on sport mode....basically trying everything that burns oil. I bought the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner and Engine Rinse. I did the treatment which is basically just an oil change procedure. It turns all that accumulated sludge back into regular oil and you drain it out. Leaves the engine nice and shiny inside, like new. FIXED. I did this exact procedure th-cam.com/video/CZhV0Qv1lpse/w-d-xo.htmln I had changed the PCV as well but the only thing that fixed it was exactly what's in that video.
I've used the bg products as well. They didn't fix my oil consumption but I'm glad they helped your engine.
I had everything done with my 3.0Tfsi. all the way to the pistons, everything was changed. Since then i have driven the span of two oil changes (3 if you count the couple of thousand km one after the rebuild) and there is no significant or noticable oil loss at all. What goes in, comes out with the next oil change.
What did you do to the pistons to stop oil consumption?
@@adic63 nothing, just everything new
cyl resurface, along with new pistons and rings, will prevent or minimize blowby.
Greetings, in the market for a gen2 Q7 with the same engine but now its scaring the crap outta me with the ammount of owners reporting high oil consumption. What % of owners do you think are experiencing this? Any idea? Appreciate the info
No clue, but ultimately it's a spicy VW... Oil consumption is part of life with these cars.
@@AudiC7Owners well, when I find one with a clean bill of health I'll be looking to extract extra HP with a tune and a pulley. Thanks!
Where I can find the hose breather that you mentioned??
Part number is in the description of our pcv tips & tricks video. Search that part number on fcp euro & other parts companies
Will piston rings always show up on spark plugs? If spark plugs are fine what can I rule out? Thanks
You need to do a compression or leak down test to check your piston rings
@@AudiC7Owners false alarm 🙌🙌🙌… maybe this will help somebody so checking oil when cold will show low even with dipstick, after going through the MMI check process my reading was full on MMI and then the dipstick showed full (exactly where it was after oil change) when I confirmed with dipstick after letting it cool for about 45 mins. TUNING TIME BABY!!! 🕺🕺🕺
Hello thanks for your vidéo which help me to understand my oil consumption on my s4 b8. I was consuming around 1 liter for 1500 km. We check for licks then change the PCV but still same consumption! I was also checking the smoke but saw nothing special since few weeks ago, blue smoke only on deceleration, I suppose as you it should be valve stem seals. How did you finally repair it? And do you know it can be done without taking the motor out of the car?
Thanks
Mine ended up being from leaking valve cover gaskets. Once I replaced those my consumption reduced significantly.
@@AudiC7Owners ok tanks but do you think blue smoke on deceleration (only at high revs) should be valve stem seals and do you know a way to change it without taking out the motor?
It could be. You would need to leak down test it to confirm.
& it could probably be done if you remove the false firewall
@AudiC7Owners did the blue smoke from exhaust go away as well after the VCG replacement?
It helped significantly
My a6 c6 has been leaking oil for a while now and I can't pin point where , I've replaced valve gaskets and crank case, oil filter housing but my oil pan looks very oily , is it the oil cooler or timing chain?
There is no way I could tell you without seeing the car. Sounds like you need to take it into a shop.
Pressure wash it and add some uv oil dye
Hello, I have a problem in is engine equal to the 3.0 TFSI, I get two errors, one puts me
-Failure of contribution / balance of the injector of the cylinder 5, Permanent.
And the other.
-Additive fuel adaptation, bed 2; Lean mix, Intermittent.
Could you tell me that it may be the cause.
Thanks for everything.
What are the actual codes. Should start with a P
@@AudiC7Owners
These are the codes that put me,
-P027500
-P113800
I think you should get it professionally inspected but this might help
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P1138
@@AudiC7Owners Thank you very much for the information, I will take you to the Audi house to see me tell me the real problem. Greetings
Hi, do you have a video washing engine and all components under the hood ?
Nope, but you can spray everything down with a degreaser & pressure wash it. Just don't focus the spray directly onto any electrical components long & avoid spraying your filter
@@AudiC7Owners I'll do that, thanks.
Avoid the alternator
I'm so scared i got a 2012 102,000miles and every 1000miles or less I'm adding a L... no blue smoke and i don't see no oil on the ground.am afraid of being a pcv cause my wife only like going to the dealership for her maintenance
Go get the car scanned at an auto parts store & look up the codes. If it is your pcv then you should have a code.
Common cause for oil burn under hard driving? I can burn up to a quart or two with hard pulls and just getting speedy. Driving normal, no issues
Bad piston rings, bad valve seals, bad pcv, a leak...
I have a 2016 a6 3.0t oil consumption is like every 300 miles in normal driving not pushing it. There is no leak, no smoke, no loss of performance. What can cause that beside replacing the long block?
You are definitely leaking or burning it somewhere. Check your pcv, valve cover gaskets, and timing chain covers
@@AudiC7Owners same for me i got a oil change and idk why they filled up to half way on the computer screen and i’m already at minimum it’s been like 400 miles
Did you check your spark plugs?
Did you ever find out what it was?
Hi, my 2016 A6 3.0T is taking a quart of liquid moly in every 400 miles city and 600 miles high way. It has a soft PVC code so i replaced PCV but it doenst help at all. No smoke or leaking, car runs great but just keep taking oil. After 100 miles now it is 1/4 below max again : (
If you can't diagnose it with this video then you need to take your car into a shop to get inspected. Good luck man
@@AudiC7Owners Hey Camron. I took it to my best local Eurotech for inspection and they can't find anything wrong after the replacement of PCV. The interesting thing is the oil level acctully jump back to Max this morning and then slowly decrease again. (I followed the 2 mins rule to check oil level everytime, and I put in fresh liquid moly after PCV replacement.) I drove 140 miles after PCV repalcement and oil level keep bouncing between Max and 1/2 . Something wierd is going on.
You need to get a dip stick to get accurate oil level readings
@@AudiC7Owners I will surely order one today. Thanks for the vedio.
@@AudiC7Owners Hey Camron I just got this car two weeks ago and im not familiar digital MMI reading. My last car was a 2008 A6 with 3.2 engin with dip stick. Does your MMi oil level also bouncing around too? Or its just me.
Is it ok to burn a quarter of a qt every 1700 miles then in a 2013 a6 3.0?
That sounds like normal to me
@AudiC7Owners ok so I shouldn't worry about it the car has 139k miles on it but has new water pump vaccum pump plugs coils and cleaned out the supercharger and did antifreeze flush
What’s wrong with mobile 1? I’m just worried I’m not using high enough quality
It's just sub par compared to something like liqui moly.
@@AudiC7Owners thank you! I just bought my C7 and I’m learning tons from your videos. Major help because I live in Idaho where Audis are pretty rare lol
Happy to help!
hmm i add probably a quart every 300-500 miles so sometimes every week and i tend to drive harder than the average joe but had the pcv replaced a couple years ago. and i really hope it’s not piston rings.
Scan the car for codes, check your vcg's.
@@AudiC7Owners ok sooo today i was driving the car down shifted when i hit the gas then boom cel and epc and now it has a cylinder 3 miss… i hate this car💀
That is a classic sign of a leaking intercooler core. We just uploaded a video showing how you can diagnose it for sure.
@@AudiC7Owners i don’t think it’s that. i found out today when i rev the car or accelerate the fumes coming out of my exhaust smell like a firework if that makes sense… so it could be the cats but i’m not sure if that would create a smell like that
Misfires in cyl 3 or 6 h an epc light are classic intercooler failure symptoms.
If a scan didn't show any codes related to your cats, then it is most likely the cores.
How much be fix the upper chain covers
Price varies on where you live & the shop you go to. If you find a shop that will do it without removing the engine you will save a lot of money. If you remove the engine though. Go ahead & do everything
Ended up being my camshaft seals it’s lookin like
That would be a first that I've ever seen that
I am burning 1L every 5km
My valve covers were leaking too
Can you do something on the coolant system? I have a coolant leak (not the normal valley pan one) and no one can find it. It is bad enough where I have to refill the reservoir every week to 10 days.
That's a good idea! I'll get to work on that.
Just trying to help in the meantime, are you not finding any coolant puddling anywhere on the ground or around the engine?
If not, there is a good chance your pcv is bad & your coolant is mixing with your oil.
@@AudiC7Owners the only visible evidence on the ground is at the very front of the car driver’s side. But when it is pressurized and leak checked nothing shows up. They also turned the transmission cooler pump on to see if that was it and no leaks. Found a small leak on a hard line near the bottom of the engine and replaced it, but it didn’t make any difference.I am thinking it is related to the thermostat because lately during this latest frigid snap here in the Midwest there have been times where the engine doesn’t get hot enough for the heat to get hot.
Could well be it. Have you checked your transmission cooling valve? It's located next to your driver's side catalytic converter. They leak when they fail, but usually not a ton.
@@AudiC7Owners where is the thermostat located?
my car is a Q5 2011
My A6 3.0t has no codes at all but I notice it smokes a lot on start up even after running for awhile. So I would think it’s head gasket but my coolant isn’t burning up
What color is the smoke?
My leak seems to be coming from the oil fill cap 18 sq5
You can try replacing it, but I've never heard of that being an issue on these engines. Did the 18's still have a 3.0t supercharged engine?
@@AudiC7Owners no it's turbo
That's what I thought. Different engine. Might check drive b9 Sq5 forums/Facebook groups to see if that is a common issue.
Watching your video and you’re talking about the oil types to use do you realize that mobile one is the current OEM oil in Castro was the previous oh yeah oil to call them parts store oil is kind of not OK
Just for reference, I work for a cat dealer caterpillar uses mobile to make all of their oil one of the best oil manufactures on the planet.
I don’t want to sound like I’m giving you a lot of crap but I don’t think you know about oil to make that determination that you said.
The fact that your proof of why its a good oil is the age old argument of "the dealership uses it" as if the dealer doesn't look for the cheapest deal they can find is simply illogical.
That's like people thinking "military grade" being stamped on an advertisement for a gun/accessory means it is higher quality compared to independent companies.
Mobil 1 & Castrol are very subpar compared to Rowe, Motul, & LM