Just watched this for some insight on a upcoming job French Doors, experienced chippy here. One thing I never expected to get out of this video was checking wind with a string, what a cracking way to check the wind especially if your in a situation where it's Impossible to sight the wind (example front door from hallway to outside alcove) String test is a cracka mate, never expected to get that from this video. That string test will go with me for the rest of my life ;). Impressed. The Flashing and sealing good advice mate gave me some tips. But damn the STING TEST FTW!
Can you do a more in-depth video on checking wind of a door jamb with string, I've searched for like 30 mins and can't find another video on it, I understand the prosses completely but I'm sure someone will definitely get alot out of it.
Thanks very much for putting these videos together. My lawnmower threw a rock at my sliding glass doors and this is the next big project on my agenda. I feel much more confident that I can do this project correctly :)
I apologize for not responding to all the comments- I do not get notified after each one, so I miss some. In any event, we appreciate everyone watching and commenting! -Gene
Eye entertainment Hello and I’m sorry for the late response.... Your jambs should always be coplanar. Right? Unless you are talking about a door that I don’t know about.... Maybe I’m wrong, but I guess I cant see a door that is not on the same plane. Pocket doors maybe? Hmmmm. Please give me an example. Maybe I need more coffee.- Gene
@@gsum2992 in a prehung door it is possible to screw the corners of the jamb in too far interior or exterior, that nailing fin is too flexible to really trust to make it coplanar. Also best to isolate from any error that may have happened during framing.
Gene's got some good advice. Although if you live somewhere that gets any serious amount of moisture do not cake sealant over the flanges and call it a day. Not that it won't work- it's just a waste of time and there are better ways to do it. Thick layers of sealant will never hold up as well as using adhesive flashing over the flange. If you're really trying to save money, use house wrap under the flanges and adhesive flashing over the flange, onto the house wrap. And, I'm sure he just didn't get to it in this video, but don't forget an aluminum drip edge above the door. And while i'm on a rant... I really encourage everyone to use stainless and aluminum products anywhere they will be exposed to the elements. There is no reason for a flashing to fail because someone saved pennies per nail. Stainless fasteners are readily available nowadays, and wouldn't add $10 to the cost of this project. When you install a door, every component you utilize should last longer than that door. There is no excuse for building something that will need to be replaced in 20 years.
Dependes on the sealant used. If you use a polyurethane type of sealant, and butter the sealant into place as shown on the video, it will be around when the dinosaurs come back. The benefit of sealant over a peel and stick flashing is it doesn't wrinkle. I have seen 100's of window and doors leak that had the peel and stick flashing applied to the nailing fins (on Top) because of wrinkles. You will never completely avoid wrinkles, especially if working off of ladders and scaffolding. Or if wind kicks up. All the best to you and good luck, thanks for watching and commenting!
Gene Summy Thanks for the video Gene. I always enjoy seeing how other people do things. There's more than one way to skin a turtle, and obviously, i can't comment on your experiences; but i would suggest that covering the flange in caulk is just as prone to installer error. You need a high quality, flexible adhesive applied uniformly or, where i live, even unexposed, it will surely crack or delaminate in freeze-thaw cycles. Caulk thickness can be critical, too thin or thick and it is much more likely to separate. Regardless, i regret to inform you that no organic material will be stable enough to last from now until the emergent dinosaur apocalypse, although I'm sure your method will outlive any modern, standard quality door. The traditional thought on this is that installation design and technique are more important than flashing adhesion. (This type of flange is always going to need caulk, but not necessarily on the flashing.) You could literally replace the top flashing with uncaulked aluminum as long as you properly prepare everything else: wrap the jamb with anything waterproof, run a bead of caulk below the nail holes on the backside of the flange, caulk the nail holes after nailing, and use proper lapping technique to extend the flashing several inches above the top flange. Water will rarely wick up the flange, and when it does, the caulk you already have between the flange and underlayment will direct it where you want it. Regardless of what material you use, the vast majority of moisture will be redirected by your flashing. The theory is that it's better to ensure that the flashing remain a solid piece of material so that, even if it loses adhesion, it won't crack. In the scenario i describe above, a wrinkle will only permit the penetration of moisture that rises above the flange holes. A caulking failure in your technique could result in the penetration of any moisture that contacts the layer of caulk used as flashing and would put significantly more stress on the secondary lines of defense (the caulking under the flange), and that's why most manufacturers spec some type of solid flashing.
Wow, what a great, thoughtful reply. Thanks very much. I enjoy these conversations with experienced people. All the best to you and yours and have a Merry Christmas! Keep in touch, please.
It looks to me that there is a strip of wood INSIDE the sill pan - the inner side of the membrane is folded up against that strip of wood…..meaning that the strip of wood would be inside of the sill pan….(at around 5:30 in this video). I would think that such a wood strip would gather moisture and rot……is that strip removed before the installation is completed?
Thank you for this video. I had to replace my patio doors that was installed by a company that deals with modular homes. I was having issues with water leaking in under the threshold of my patio doors. When I pulled out the old set, I was so angry, the company that installed that old set of doors used NO flashing, NO pan, NO membrane, only a little RTV silicone on the bottom and that's all. The doors were installed when the house was new 6 years ago, and there was already a spot of rot that had taken place in the bottom corner of the door opening big enough that I could insert my hand. Thanks to this video, I can install this new set of doors and not have it leak water into my house. :)
What about if your exterior is studs, then wire and building paper (with no sheathing), then after door install, chicken wire and stucco. California style. Does the wire and building paper go on top of your flashing and pan?
Ty for the videos. Great teaching conveyed to the student. My doors installed by builders now out of business due to foreman on the take! As a result, floors damaged, garage leaks ((2-story) from the door above. Hired another who came highly recommended, purchased new door, again big rain, big leak! I was out of town during installation so did not see. Do you have a video on removing existing doors?
Thats a job for a finish carpenter. He will have to build all the items needed and get them all to work together. Hire a licensed Finish carpenter for this project. Good Luck! -Gene
I had a "Professional" install my two garden doors and it turns out that they did it completely wrong! No pan system, no flashing and if I'm lucky there may be sealant under the sill. The two doors leak like crazy when there is a decent rain. Lucky for me the inside is not insulated/dry walled / and flooring is not installed yet...but my siding has been installed. What is my best solution to fixing this mess??? I have tried my best to caulk the doors from the outside but it is only slowing the problem! Any ideas or bite the bullet and remove the doors + siding and re-install???
CARP SPUDPICKER I am sorry for the late reply Carp. I would "Bite the Bullet" and do again. Sorry for your poor experience with my beloved industry... Gene
Non stick is easier to use. Many prefer a non-sticky version; I frankly like both. Both may be self sealing. Depending on your location in the country, the non-sticky version may not be available. It seems to be a west coast product. I have never seen it east of Colorado. The methods in the video may be used with sticky flashing too. User preference. Thanks for watching! - Gene
This seems like great stuff- how can I get enough of it for installation of 1 or 2 doors? It seems like its only sold to contractors in rolls of 75 feet or more
Hello Joaquin, sorry for the delay in response.... I would build the deck first, then prepare your rough opening for the door. Much easier that way. Thanks! -Gene
Thats difficult to answer. Every market is different. Contact a licensed Carpenter and ask for hourly rates, or for a quote on the project. If you have the doors he can do it in a day or two depending on the existing conditions. Good luck! - Gene
I"d rather use a over the flange tape from Pella instead of so much sealant. Less time consuming, messy and less expensive. Can be applied in cold weather. Pella's tape has a thin aluminum on the face that is rubber backed, with a sticky adhesive on the back.
Used it many times, tested it many times. Theoretically it is fine. The trouble starts the working on scaffolding or windy days, wrinkles happen resulting in failure. But to each their own. Keep using the tape and good luck to you. Gene
I've used Pella tape many times myself in windy conditions. It sounds like you're not familiar with it's proper application. You peel the back off as you go. You can use your fingers or a small rubber roller to keep it lying flat. No messy caulking to worry about. Plus, don't get that caulking on your fingers, your body absorbs the poisonous chemicals it's made of. I've had zero failure if applied properly. Besides, caulking cannot be applied in low temperatures as it interferes with it's curing capability. Thus limiting the time of year for such installations. With Pella tape, all you need is a heat gun and you're good to go. Good luck with all that caulking though. Please inform me of the company that manufactures it, as I want to invest.
Hey Norm, I am really good at applying Pella Tape as are my employees. In fact if someones prefers tape on the nail flange, I'm good with that. My issue is all the guys out there on piece work, or who are not trained correctly. The sealant method is idiot proof. Tape method is not.... Just this week (much rain in California) I have inspected and tested two jobs where this is the problem. Issues include the joint where the nail flange pivots on the frame. This joint is not water proof. The tape can easily miss this problem area. Plus cracks in the nail fin, Tape does not repair these as well as sealant. That is my very recent experience. All the best to you, Gene
It sounded like you weren't in your last post. That you had problems in the wind. It seemed like a homeowner using it for the first time. I agree if you don't use it correctly there maybe a problem but that can also be said for sealant too. You've just revealed your lack of understanding on the use of the Pella tape. You can also apply it to corners etc. as well as the nail flange. Broaden your awareness on the products use so you can eliminate most of that caulking/sealant you use. I like the tape because you can also penetrate it with a fastener and it seals around it. Each to his own I guess. I just don't like my workers being subjected to the toxicity of most sealants. MSDS due dilgence should prevail when using any types of these sealants. Check out the long term effects regarding the coming in contact with skin and breathing their fumes. The use of a Pella type tape will become more inviting.
I’m also trying to get a outswing French door... I see the hinges are exposed... are they safe??? I live in California and Lowe’s “special ordered” an outswing door but they gave me an “Inswing” I returned it...
+Drew Dukes Depends on the siding condition and the history of the door. If you have experienced leaks in the past during natural rain events, removal of the siding is a good idea. If you have no history of leaks, and you can access the door without removing siding, then try it without siding removal. You can use a skill saw and remove the perimeter of the siding, 6 inches away or so. Then the repairs can include 6x trim around the door.Dot damage the flashing, or plan on repairing/replacing any damaged flashing... Thanks for watching! Gene Reply
I generally liked the video but I had a couple of problems. First, the framing seemed to be totally inadequate for the size and weight of the door. Where were the jack studs? What kind of header is that? I would never have a header laid flat over a door on a carrier wall. The time to beef up the framing was during the installation while it was totally exposed. Second, I did not see the need to have additional corners when top flashing after the installation would have corrected the open corners of the door flange but that's just me. The framing is the bigger issue.
The framing was a result of a demo wall. The wall was actually created in a garage door opening, and was torn down the same day. The demo was not to illustrate wall framing, but French Door installation and flashing. I like top corners bc they protect the top of the opening which is especially important when 2 or more floors are being constructed. If a single story home with an overhang and few penetrations is being built, the top corners are not necessary. Just my 2 cents.... Gene
Well damn, I guess I won't be installing my french doors, as I have never done it before, and how the heck am I going to find an installer that knows his job as well as you do? Errrrrr
Bad installation - ALWAYS overlap any flashing over the layer below starting from bottom to top. The chevrons used in this video are an example. They should have been installed under the perimeter flashing.
Hey Vid Skippy... as a tradesmen since 1979 your string test is NOT a PLUMB test!!! All the string test does is check weather the door is RACKED... Plumb is a vertical up and down, Both sides can be plumb but door can be racked. Now that you learned this, you did NOT check to see if door is sitting in the frame SQUARE!!! Look if your going to do a video to guide people PLEASE learn first and your the one that says most people doesnt know what plumb is and you also dont by misleading people thinking the string test is a Plumb thing
Hi Gene and thanks for the video! I’m getting ready to install my Andersen French doors and it has been a while (The 70’s) so I needed an updated (no water intrusion) method. Back in my day, all they got was a heavy bead of cheap caulk under the sill and flanges. I’m not sure what John Troll is talking about? You clearly say (3:28 in video 2) that plumb is perpendicular to the earth. Perpendicular, meaning a right angle to the earth or plane, i.e. at an angle of 90° to a given line, plane, or surface. Then you go on to say you also want something that is in cross sight, meaning the jamb sides are parallel, in plane. Clearly, you made a distinction between the two. Later in the video, addressing some omissions you talked about the door also not being racked, by pulling the tape diagonally making the cross to ensure the measurements match or are with in an eighth of an inch. I know you are just being polite with your response and it isn’t worth your time. You took a lot of time to make this video and edit it. I really appreciate the instructions, as I’m sure others did, and will, as well. No one is perfect. For example: “PLEASE learn first and your (((you’re))) the one that says most people doesnt (((don’t))) know what plumb is and you also dont (((don’t))) by misleading people thinking the string test is a Plumb thing (((.)))”
Depends on the siding condition and the history of the door. If you have experienced leaks in the past during natural rain events, removal of the siding is a good idea. If you have no history of leaks, and you can access the door without removing siding, then try it without siding removal. You can use a skill saw and remove the perimeter of the siding, 6 inches away or so. Then the repairs can include 6x trim around the door.Dot damage the flashing, or plan on repairing/replacing any damaged flashing... Thanks for watching! Gene
Just watched this for some insight on a upcoming job French Doors, experienced chippy here. One thing I never expected to get out of this video was checking wind with a string, what a cracking way to check the wind especially if your in a situation where it's Impossible to sight the wind (example front door from hallway to outside alcove)
String test is a cracka mate, never expected to get that from this video. That string test will go with me for the rest of my life ;). Impressed. The Flashing and sealing good advice mate gave me some tips. But damn the STING TEST FTW!
Can you do a more in-depth video on checking wind of a door jamb with string, I've searched for like 30 mins and can't find another video on it, I understand the prosses completely but I'm sure someone will definitely get alot out of it.
Thanks Mikey! Sorry it took me so long to respond. Best of luck to you! - Gene
This is such a fine instruction. Time and again I return for a refresher. You da man Gene! 👊
Very good video. Have to do one of these doors with my daughter this summer ,now everything will be installed correct.
Thanks very much! Best of luck to you. -Gene
Thanks very much for putting these videos together. My lawnmower threw a rock at my sliding glass doors and this is the next big project on my agenda. I feel much more confident that I can do this project correctly :)
Stuart Gross Good luck with your project Stuart,
Gene
as a 35 year remodeler, this is an excellent video.
Philip Sterk Thank You Philip! We appreciate your watch and support... Gene
Great installation vid. Most contractors won’t take the time to install a door the correct way. This is the correct way👍
Not really this is the most complicated way ever!
Thank you so much! I just bought French Doors to put in my Camper, cant wait until spring to put the doors in, Thanks!
You are welcome! Good luck with your French Doors and contact us if you have questions. Merry Christmas!
Really a great video and great intent to cover as much information needed while installation and even post installation. Appreciate it!!!
Thanks very much 81 metube! -Gene
Outstanding video series. Thanks for taking the time to explain the details...very helpful and informative.
Joseph Guadagno Thanks very much Joseph! Appreciate your watching. Gene
Nice application, good job. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching and for the nice comments! - Gene
This is the most complicated French door install I have seen in my life. LOL
Not really, do 2 or 3 and you can duplicate the process quickly.
Bravo!! You have great workers Sir!!
eddie casarez Thank you Eddie! I agree. They are the best.- Gene
If it were not for the workers...that door will never get installed!
I apologize for not responding to all the comments- I do not get notified after each one, so I miss some. In any event, we appreciate everyone watching and commenting! -Gene
installing 3 Marvin french doors very soon...thx for the good tips....the shims in the middle and the string test....awesome....=]
Great detailed info. Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
Bjorn Nerseth - Thanks for watching! We really appreciate the feedback.- Gene
Gene, this is a great tutorial. I do wish, though, that you could show how to adjust for cross-leg if the doors aren't coplanar.
Eye entertainment Hello and I’m sorry for the late response.... Your jambs should always be coplanar. Right? Unless you are talking about a door that I don’t know about.... Maybe I’m wrong, but I guess I cant see a door that is not on the same plane. Pocket doors maybe? Hmmmm. Please give me an example. Maybe I need more coffee.- Gene
@@gsum2992 in a prehung door it is possible to screw the corners of the jamb in too far interior or exterior, that nailing fin is too flexible to really trust to make it coplanar. Also best to isolate from any error that may have happened during framing.
Gene's got some good advice. Although if you live somewhere that gets any serious amount of moisture do not cake sealant over the flanges and call it a day. Not that it won't work- it's just a waste of time and there are better ways to do it. Thick layers of sealant will never hold up as well as using adhesive flashing over the flange. If you're really trying to save money, use house wrap under the flanges and adhesive flashing over the flange, onto the house wrap.
And, I'm sure he just didn't get to it in this video, but don't forget an aluminum drip edge above the door. And while i'm on a rant... I really encourage everyone to use stainless and aluminum products anywhere they will be exposed to the elements. There is no reason for a flashing to fail because someone saved pennies per nail. Stainless fasteners are readily available nowadays, and wouldn't add $10 to the cost of this project. When you install a door, every component you utilize should last longer than that door. There is no excuse for building something that will need to be replaced in 20 years.
Dependes on the sealant used. If you use a polyurethane type of sealant, and butter the sealant into place as shown on the video, it will be around when the dinosaurs come back. The benefit of sealant over a peel and stick flashing is it doesn't wrinkle. I have seen 100's of window and doors leak that had the peel and stick flashing applied to the nailing fins (on Top) because of wrinkles. You will never completely avoid wrinkles, especially if working off of ladders and scaffolding. Or if wind kicks up. All the best to you and good luck, thanks for watching and commenting!
Gene Summy
Thanks for the video Gene. I always enjoy seeing how other people do things. There's more than one way to skin a turtle, and obviously, i can't comment on your experiences; but i would suggest that covering the flange in caulk is just as prone to installer error. You need a high quality, flexible adhesive applied uniformly or, where i live, even unexposed, it will surely crack or delaminate in freeze-thaw cycles. Caulk thickness can be critical, too thin or thick and it is much more likely to separate. Regardless, i regret to inform you that no organic material will be stable enough to last from now until the emergent dinosaur apocalypse, although I'm sure your method will outlive any modern, standard quality door.
The traditional thought on this is that installation design and technique are more important than flashing adhesion. (This type of flange is always going to need caulk, but not necessarily on the flashing.)
You could literally replace the top flashing with uncaulked aluminum as long as you properly prepare everything else: wrap the jamb with anything waterproof, run a bead of caulk below the nail holes on the backside of the flange, caulk the nail holes after nailing, and use proper lapping technique to extend the flashing several inches above the top flange. Water will rarely wick up the flange, and when it does, the caulk you already have between the flange and underlayment will direct it where you want it.
Regardless of what material you use, the vast majority of moisture will be redirected by your flashing. The theory is that it's better to ensure that the flashing remain a solid piece of material so that, even if it loses adhesion, it won't crack. In the scenario i describe above, a wrinkle will only permit the penetration of moisture that rises above the flange holes. A caulking failure in your technique could result in the penetration of any moisture that contacts the layer of caulk used as flashing and would put significantly more stress on the secondary lines of defense (the caulking under the flange), and that's why most manufacturers spec some type of solid flashing.
Wow, what a great, thoughtful reply. Thanks very much. I enjoy these conversations with experienced people. All the best to you and yours and have a Merry Christmas! Keep in touch, please.
It looks to me that there is a strip of wood INSIDE the sill pan - the inner side of the membrane is folded up against that strip of wood…..meaning that the strip of wood would be inside of the sill pan….(at around 5:30 in this video). I would think that such a wood strip would gather moisture and rot……is that strip removed before the installation is completed?
Thank you for this video. I had to replace my patio doors that was installed by a company that deals with modular homes. I was having issues with water leaking in under the threshold of my patio doors. When I pulled out the old set, I was so angry, the company that installed that old set of doors used NO flashing, NO pan, NO membrane, only a little RTV silicone on the bottom and that's all. The doors were installed when the house was new 6 years ago, and there was already a spot of rot that had taken place in the bottom corner of the door opening big enough that I could insert my hand. Thanks to this video, I can install this new set of doors and not have it leak water into my house. :)
+DaveyBenson1 You are very welcome! Thanks for watching. Good luck with your project...
Gene
thanks gene for your help
string in various forms has been used as a leveling tool since before the Roman times you can see this in evidence in various meuseum in Italy
Thanks Fred, that is interesting! - Gene
What about if your exterior is studs, then wire and building paper (with no sheathing), then after door install, chicken wire and stucco. California style.
Does the wire and building paper go on top of your flashing and pan?
Yes they go on top. Good luck1 -Gene
Ty for the videos. Great teaching conveyed to the student. My doors installed by builders now out of business due to foreman on the take! As a result, floors damaged, garage leaks ((2-story) from the door above. Hired another who came highly recommended, purchased new door, again big rain, big leak! I was out of town during installation so did not see. Do you have a video on removing existing doors?
I am sorry, I do not have a video on that. I can help though if you like. Call my office ask for Gene. 800-310-7673. -Gene
thank you for your time. great info
Do you like metal pans?
Thank you, nicely done video
Thank you Jon for watching and commenting! We really appreciate it.- Gene
How much doesbit cost to replace a french door (double door)?
Hey folks, do you know any good resealable (charges) installer around Oakland-Macomb counties in Michigan?
How would you reinstall a salvaged French door that goes from indoor to outdoor and has no meeting joints, no door jam, and no threshold?
Thats a job for a finish carpenter. He will have to build all the items needed and get them all to work together. Hire a licensed Finish carpenter for this project. Good Luck! -Gene
I had a "Professional" install my two garden doors and it turns out that they did it completely wrong! No pan system, no flashing and if I'm lucky there may be sealant under the sill. The two doors leak like crazy when there is a decent rain. Lucky for me the inside is not insulated/dry walled / and flooring is not installed yet...but my siding has been installed. What is my best solution to fixing this mess??? I have tried my best to caulk the doors from the outside but it is only slowing the problem! Any ideas or bite the bullet and remove the doors + siding and re-install???
CARP SPUDPICKER I am sorry for the late reply Carp. I would "Bite the Bullet" and do again. Sorry for your poor experience with my beloved industry... Gene
Hello, What is the point of the non stick flashing tape as compared to the sticky versions? Thanks. Doug
Non stick is easier to use. Many prefer a non-sticky version; I frankly like both. Both may be self sealing. Depending on your location in the country, the non-sticky version may not be available. It seems to be a west coast product. I have never seen it east of Colorado. The methods in the video may be used with sticky flashing too. User preference. Thanks for watching! - Gene
This seems like great stuff- how can I get enough of it for installation of 1 or 2 doors? It seems like its only sold to contractors in rolls of 75 feet or more
Voley Martin Call Doug @ 800-310-7673 and tell him you want a French Door Kit.
Thanks Voley... Gene
hi gene summy I'm going to build a deck on one side of my house and install a french door so what's going to be first the deck or the door
Hello Joaquin, sorry for the delay in response.... I would build the deck first, then prepare your rough opening for the door. Much easier that way. Thanks! -Gene
How much does it cost to install the French frame and doors
Thats difficult to answer. Every market is different. Contact a licensed Carpenter and ask for hourly rates, or for a quote on the project. If you have the doors he can do it in a day or two depending on the existing conditions. Good luck! - Gene
Epic!
I"d rather use a over the flange tape from Pella instead of so much sealant. Less time consuming, messy and less expensive. Can be applied in cold weather. Pella's tape has a thin aluminum on the face that is rubber backed, with a sticky adhesive on the back.
Used it many times, tested it many times. Theoretically it is fine. The trouble starts the working on scaffolding or windy days, wrinkles happen resulting in failure. But to each their own. Keep using the tape and good luck to you. Gene
I've used Pella tape many times myself in windy conditions. It sounds like you're not familiar with it's proper application. You peel the back off as you go. You can use your fingers or a small rubber roller to keep it lying flat. No messy caulking to worry about. Plus, don't get that caulking on your fingers, your body absorbs the poisonous chemicals it's made of. I've had zero failure if applied properly. Besides, caulking cannot be applied in low temperatures as it interferes with it's curing capability. Thus limiting the time of year for such installations. With Pella tape, all you need is a heat gun and you're good to go. Good luck with all that caulking though. Please inform me of the company that manufactures it, as I want to invest.
Hey Norm, I am really good at applying Pella Tape as are my employees. In fact if someones prefers tape on the nail flange, I'm good with that. My issue is all the guys out there on piece work, or who are not trained correctly. The sealant method is idiot proof. Tape method is not.... Just this week (much rain in California) I have inspected and tested two jobs where this is the problem. Issues include the joint where the nail flange pivots on the frame. This joint is not water proof. The tape can easily miss this problem area. Plus cracks in the nail fin, Tape does not repair these as well as sealant. That is my very recent experience. All the best to you, Gene
It sounded like you weren't in your last post. That you had problems in the wind. It seemed like a homeowner using it for the first time. I agree if you don't use it correctly there maybe a problem but that can also be said for sealant too. You've just revealed your lack of understanding on the use of the Pella tape. You can also apply it to corners etc. as well as the nail flange. Broaden your awareness on the products use so you can eliminate most of that caulking/sealant you use. I like the tape because you can also penetrate it with a fastener and it seals around it. Each to his own I guess. I just don't like my workers being subjected to the toxicity of most sealants. MSDS due dilgence should prevail when using any types of these sealants. Check out the long term effects regarding the coming in contact with skin and breathing their fumes. The use of a Pella type tape will become more inviting.
All the best to you! Take care, Gene
I’m also trying to get a outswing French door... I see the hinges are exposed... are they safe??? I live in California and Lowe’s “special ordered” an outswing door but they gave me an “Inswing” I returned it...
Yes they are safe. The exterior hinges are a little different from interior hinges and are difficult to pull the pins.-Gene
So what prevents a burglar from pulling the hing pins to gain access?
what's your suggestion for installing replacement doors? does the siding need pulled off to make this possible?
+Drew Dukes Depends on the siding condition and the history of the door. If you have experienced leaks in the past during natural rain events, removal of the siding is a good idea. If you have no history of leaks, and you can access the door without removing siding, then try it without siding removal. You can use a skill saw and remove the perimeter of the siding, 6 inches away or so. Then the repairs can include 6x trim around the door.Dot damage the flashing, or plan on repairing/replacing any damaged flashing... Thanks for watching! Gene
Reply
No leaks. Just an old drafty French door that needs replaced.
I generally liked the video but I had a couple of problems. First, the framing seemed to be totally inadequate for the size and weight of the door. Where were the jack studs? What kind of header is that? I would never have a header laid flat over a door on a carrier wall. The time to beef up the framing was during the installation while it was totally exposed. Second, I did not see the need to have additional corners when top flashing after the installation would have corrected the open corners of the door flange but that's just me. The framing is the bigger issue.
The framing was a result of a demo wall. The wall was actually created in a garage door opening, and was torn down the same day. The demo was not to illustrate wall framing, but French Door installation and flashing. I like top corners bc they protect the top of the opening which is especially important when 2 or more floors are being constructed. If a single story home with an overhang and few penetrations is being built, the top corners are not necessary. Just my 2 cents.... Gene
Doesn’t say how to fix it if it isn’t plum…
Why can the guy get his jacket off and do the job while talking?
Well damn, I guess I won't be installing my french doors, as I have never done it before, and how the heck am I going to find an installer that knows his job as well as you do? Errrrrr
Why do I get the feeling his help isn’t so legal lol.
Ok Mr. Funny man. Everyone here is legal. Thanks for watching. -Gene
Bad installation - ALWAYS overlap any flashing over the layer below starting from bottom to top. The chevrons used in this video are an example. They should have been installed under the perimeter flashing.
hacks
Hey Vid Skippy... as a tradesmen since 1979 your string test is NOT a PLUMB test!!! All the string test does is check weather the door is RACKED... Plumb is a vertical up and down, Both sides can be plumb but door can be racked. Now that you learned this, you did NOT check to see if door is sitting in the frame SQUARE!!! Look if your going to do a video to guide people PLEASE learn first and your the one that says most people doesnt know what plumb is and you also dont by misleading people thinking the string test is a Plumb thing
Thanks for your helpful insights and have a Merry Christmas. - Gene aka Skippy..??
Hi Gene and thanks for the video! I’m getting ready to install my Andersen French doors and it has been a while (The 70’s) so I needed an updated (no water intrusion) method. Back in my day, all they got was a heavy bead of cheap caulk under the sill and flanges.
I’m not sure what John Troll is talking about? You clearly say (3:28 in video 2) that plumb is perpendicular to the earth. Perpendicular, meaning a right angle to the earth or plane, i.e. at an angle of 90° to a given line, plane, or surface. Then you go on to say you also want something that is in cross sight, meaning the jamb sides are parallel, in plane. Clearly, you made a distinction between the two. Later in the video, addressing some omissions you talked about the door also not being racked, by pulling the tape diagonally making the cross to ensure the measurements match or are with in an eighth of an inch.
I know you are just being polite with your response and it isn’t worth your time. You took a lot of time to make this video and edit it. I really appreciate the instructions, as I’m sure others did, and will, as well. No one is perfect. For example: “PLEASE learn first and your (((you’re))) the one that says most people doesnt (((don’t))) know what plumb is and you also dont (((don’t))) by misleading people thinking the string test is a Plumb thing (((.)))”
Looks like somebody didn't watch the whole video.
yur not a bob vila more u speek
Depends on the siding condition and the history of the door. If you have experienced leaks in the past during natural rain events, removal of the siding is a good idea. If you have no history of leaks, and you can access the door without removing siding, then try it without siding removal. You can use a skill saw and remove the perimeter of the siding, 6 inches away or so. Then the repairs can include 6x trim around the door.Dot damage the flashing, or plan on repairing/replacing any damaged flashing... Thanks for watching! Gene
Thanks Pablo! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. All the best!