Honda Accord AC Evaporator And Expansion Valve Replacement (2003 - 2007)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Yes, this tiny little expansion valve requires you to tear into the dashboard to replace it. Blower motor and evaporator both have to come out before you can remove the valve.
Don't forget to recover the AC refrigerant before disconnecting any AC components and/or lines.
Applies to Honda Accord 2003 - 2007
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Why in GODS name do they build cars like this , if they know it’s going to have to be replaced at one point during the life of the car, they should design it to be so much easier to service .... what a pain in the A.
Easy, they want sell cars, otherwise, some cars are to simple, like Toyota Yaris, Hyundai Accent, and similar, no tu much technology, just necessary, luxury cars are a pain in the a…… y prefer simple cars
This is 1 of the best and yes they do it on purpose. GE engineer admitted to it. Look up right to repair bill and place a signature. Designed obsolescence is a proven conspiracy that started with the first lightbulbs. Broken insensitive structure. Dealerships make more money. They designed them for ease of assembly rather than ease of maintenance. Google search EOA.
Actually this is easy.
Do a late teens Ford SuperDuty.
Whole dash gotta go! Split the HVAC box in half. Sidenote, they are prone to failure in 2-5 years.
@@wrenchpony9735that’s what I’m saying if the dash can stay in the car it’s easier than most
2 things:
1. to force the consumer to go to the stealership, so they can separate rip him/her from their hard earned money, and
2. There’s a thing called planned obsolescence. Car parts are designed so cheaply, so that they can fail. Example: BMW non-belt driven electronic hard plastic water pumps. Those fail, and you have an insanely expensive, poorly designed part to replace.
3. Over-engineering. Why??? …because they can, and they will, for the above reasons.
The thing is to get you into a new car, and force you into financial slavery, by paying interest.
German cars? Lease them. After 3 years, turn it in for another new piece of junk.
The big 3 (not so American) cars?? Treat them like the German cars above.
Hondas and Toyotas??? Buy them or lease them. (It’s up to you) They’re reliable, well built machines, and don’t depreciate.
It's so good that you don't have to take off the whole dashboard to replace the evaporater in this car
Right
This is the way a repair video should be done. Excellent video and commentary!
Agreed 👍
very high quality and rare video, it will help me when replacing my air conditioning evaporator, in my Honda accord 7, my evaporator is leaking, I will change it myself, as shown in your video, thank you very much for your work, good luck!
Typical reaction - "OMG he cut the dashboard!!!" For the uninformed - that procedure is straight from the factory service manual. You have to remove that plastic piece by cutting along the sides. Blower motor will not come out unless you remove that plastic piece.
On my '06 Accord, I am getting low pressure on the High side (100), and about normal pressure on the Low side (40). I think the expansion valve might be stuck open. A shop checked for leaks and didn't find any, and they evacuated and recharged the system. But I am still getting very little cool air out of the vents. The compressor runs constantly, and I occasionally get some frosty air blowing out the vents, indicating that the evaporator is frosting over. The temperature of the line coming out of the compressor gets very hot (about 165F), but after the condensor it has cooled down to about 115F, so the condensor seems to be working alright. The low side and high side lines are not much different in temperature around the schrader valves - they're slightly cool to the touch but nowhere near cold.
So did you weld back the plastic?
Ha! Exactly what I was thinking. I understand now! Great video. I just wish it was more like my '91(which I can't find so far - just learning everything I can). Let me know if you do a '91 in the next week or so! (LOL)
happywrenching exactly!!! According to the service manual you have to remove that plastic, god job !!!!!!!
Remove the dash. Wow
I wanted to mention that I had to redo this job because the aftermarket valve that we got from RockAuto did not work properly. It caused high pressure readings and the A/C had poor cooling performance. Installed an OEM Honda valve and the A/C is working great again. On the bright side - the job only took about 30 minutes this time around :)
What is the OEM Honda valve part #?
NVM. found it 80221-SDA-A01
happywrenching my mechanic is working on this except for her broke the screws somehow and I can’t find the part number on them. Where can I find them?
If you going to go through all the labor why not replace the evaporator. if it has any age at all the aluminum is bound to be degraded.
+NeilC Cross The evaporator is located inside a closed shell and in most modern cars a filter keeps it away from dust and contamination. It's not like a condenser, which is always open to road salt, dust and whatnot. Money for an evaporator, unless it leaks, of course, is better spent on a new condenser in my own opinion. I have a 15 years old car, with a 15 years old Harrison CVC compressor and ice cold air (as much as the blue type 42 PSI destroke valve allows), and while the condenser clearly shows its years with some bent fins and an opaque oxidated look, the evaporator looks shiny and clean and it seems new.
Fantastic video! You make it look easier than it is.
"Let's put 8 tiny screws in places where no-one can find them for one small plastic cover".... I hate automotive engineers.
Superb video and excellent narration of what's being done. It's quite clear, that you are a professional. Most impressive was the use of a torque wrench to make sure bolts are tighten to factory specs. Thanks for posting.
So this is a way to get around removing the whole dashboard?
The Honda manual actually specifies to cut the plastic brace piece when removing the blower motor, which is why there is already a cut pattern in place on that piece
There's another way it's very simple you take it from the engine Department where it connects to the wall
Best step by step video I've seen on TH-cam. Subscribed after watching about to look through all his videos. Hands down best mechanics channel on TH-cam! Thanks and keep doing what you do.
To me (the uneducated ac diyer) I have no idea why Honda could not put this valve in an easier location?? Like on the firewall?
Because engineers are assholes who never have worked on anything but mathmatics their entire lives.
I forgot to say in the video that you must first recover the ac refrigerant that is in your car before disconnecting any of the lines / components. The car in the video had its refrigerant already recovered before the video was shot.
Now, that is the part of the video I was waiting to see but never saw.
@@daviderhahon 😆
If u had to explain that in the video then they should not be performing this anyways
What ac problems were you experiencing why did you have to do this.
so Mr wrench man favors us and you do for us a video for the new models like wish that requires the total dismantling of the dash board.Thank you.
Who the hell designs an A/C system where you have to remove the evaporator coil to replace a TXV??? Most sane engineers have it on the engine side of the firewall where it takes 15 minutes to replace.
Nice video BTW. I just shared it with some fanboy who claims that these are just as easy as swapping one in a Dodge etc where they are under the hood. LOL
you can get to the expansion valve from under the hood just remove the lines at the firewall, but to remove entire coil yes you need to do it this way.
Cuando un aire de un kía k5 nó enfria que puede ser
@@eduardoylorenzaavila4645 muchas cosa
Designer want to prevenr DIY and feed Engineers. Hard/difficult as possible so you have to take to dealerrrrrrrrrrrrrr.....rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Lancer ex you need to take out evrtything .. as in the whole dashboard. One hell of a job. Very frustrating to do.
I have done a ton of these expansion valves. I have done them so much that I have proven many people wrong about this method of removal and replacement. I can do them from under the hood. Its all about the angle you pull it off and install it. The disk end of the valve has to be pulled out last and inserted first.
I’m going to save you several hours of pain and suffering … the key to put the cover back on, when you have 1/2” more to go and the top doesn’t close … you have to slide the cover in behind the 2” tab shown in min 6:18 under the white plug … It took me about 2 hours of attempts to figure that out
In the video at 2:20 the cable you said you couldn't get out so you broke the retainer... just take a small socket (I used a 1/4") and seat it over the top of the white plastic retainer on the wire harness. That will squeeze the tabs that keep it attached and allow you to pull it out of the hole without breaking it.
Nice video sir!
Clear views, solid advice and quality workmanship.
Two questions, 1, what do you plug the lines with to keep moisture out? 2, noticed torque wrench, what torque spec for valve? Thank you!
Another reason for me to consider buying a 2007 as a daily driver.
I used this video to replace the seals and expansion valve on my 2005 Acura TL. Being that they're sister vehicles, this worked great! Thanks man!
I'm trying to get the blower box out. I removed the 2 bottom bolts. And 2 on the left side. But it seems there in one more on the right. Maybe up top so where. Any ideas?
@@hmiinch7995 I'm about to do my 2006 Acura TL next weekend. Did you find the last one? Any other tings that were different than the video?
@8:15 - 8:30, I just did this and found it very useful to remove that temperature sensor before reinstalling the evap cover. It's very easy to do and can prevent accidental breakage of the sensor.
4cyl or v6?
@@donniev8181 V6
my goodness, i can't stand dashboard vehicle work makes me frustrated just watching it. Great job man!
hey bud,why did you have to replace the expansion valve,,,?wat was the air conditioning doing??
Depending on your high and low pressure readings the expansion should be replaced and why not if he's already down there
@skankhunt42 lmao wat?
Save time by doing a quick fix, If your expansion valve is sticking and not cooling try this first, bled the freon first open the lines that go to the evaporator, high and low pressure lines from the firewall, engine compartment. Take a low pressure air line and blow out any restrictions in the line back and forth on both lines. Once you have done this take some break free lubricate and spray in both lines and blow with low pressure back and forth to make sure the lubricant has reach the expansion valve and let set over night. Next day blow out the break free lubricant once again blow out both lines back and forth until the break free lubricant has been removed. Reconnect lines and draw a vacuum and service the a/c with freon. WOW it works every time I done it and save you time and money! Note: Low pressure less than 30psi and not 120psi it could damage the evaporator.
I'd just replace the valve, the orifice inside it is very very small. I'd personally get a second hand evaporator, get the valve off of it and use compressed air (and an ice spray too) to just test the valve's correct operation and if it closes when you cool it down and opens when you warm it up, that's it...
what did you torque the expansion valve bolts down to?
just snug them tight
Informative video by the way, but I have couple of questions for you:
1) Does taking out the evaporator requires only dismantling the glove box part of dashboard for all cars? Or do certain cars need their entire dashboard removed to access the evaporator? One of an A/C shop that I know in my place remove the entire dashboard just to take out the evaporator which I dont feel good about it.
2) Does car A/C system needs a periodic maintenance? If it does, can you tell me what should be inspected and replaced during the maintenance?
Thanks!
No- all cars are not the same at all. Some cars require complete removal of the entire dash, center console and more. Terrible designs by engineers who have never worked on a car.
I really appreciate your video! It helps a lot 🙏🏻 thank you sooo much, definately subscribed after this video.
do you remember the readings in your ac gauges with the bad valve and with the new honda valve, and also the temperatures related?
normally when it goes bad the evap will frost over, frost on the line in the engine going to it...the evap sensor should shut off the compressor as a result but on some systems it won't
Great video.
Please, how much quantity is PAG 46 oil does this car's compressor require?
My Chevrolet Matiz 2005 has a leaking evaporator. It should be the same to fix. I tried applying hole repair chemical and must get it flushed. I would disassemble this alone and let a mechanic do the rest.
I use a dremel to make the outside whole a little larger to be able to change the expansion valve without removing the evap core:th-cam.com/video/b4XgETsEWP0/w-d-xo.html
Is this the same for both the V6 & I4?
Thank you so much for taking the time and making this video. Do you think that this is what I can expect for a 2007 Acura Tsx? Thanks again for all your efforts in helping the average diy'er take on these kind of projects.
+Fernando Romero Everything that I have seen online shows that the process is similar for that car.
+happywrenching Thanks. It is actually a 2008. Hope it's the same. Starting the process now with your video qued up. Thanks again
Seems like cutting an access hole through the firewall would almost be easier. Are the 4cyl Accords configured the same way and how did you know it was the expansion valve to begin with? How does the AC act when the expansion valve is bad?
Is it the same procedure for a 2012 accord
Anyone know why you’d want to replace this? I recently installed a new compressor and condenser for my ac. And it works but is not ice cold. I’m suspecting this is the next part to replace. Anyone have any ideas?
Can you make a video for replacing and installing a evaporator core for a 2002 honda accord? Thanks
Hey I got a new AC unit for my 2005 Honda Accord and it doesn't work! Is there a relay switch I have to press or something? Anything helps!
If you don’t have the equipment to remove the moisture and contamination.. or to fill it back up.. can you drive like that to go somewhere to do this? And any garage will help you with it ?
Thank you for your time and effort with such good detailed video!!
That's a lot of work. I need to get something to cut thru that plastic now.
What will happen if you skip the last step of removing the moisture and air? Since I don't have that either
This is a lot of work. Im just going to pay somebody
I'd use original honda o-rings for the expansion valve and evaporator, instead of the assortment ones, as they were designed to factory fit, the green ones are not as perfect fitting. And no sealants of any kind .
Hey u help me out I have a 09 accord exl coupe I only have heat on the passenger side cold on driver side I flush the core twice still no heat I can’t figure out what the problem is
Question. Is there a labor difference if I just have the expansion valve and evaporator done compared to just have the expansion value done?
I have a question: the air come out from the vacuum contaminate the ambient?
If you would like to know how to replace the expansion valve easier, it is possible to pull it out via the engine compartment.
Hey I have change a couple things on my 2003 Honda Accord but is still blowing out heat
If I bring my 01 accord by, could you show me one more time? Seriously, though, great tutorial
You forgot to mention that if you open the system you need to change the filter drier
Are you sure you needed to Dremmel cut that piece? Why not just unbolt it? After all, all you did was pull it back and surely you could have done that with that piece totally intact?
Just a reminder that this cutting procedure is from the factory service manual. I think you would have to unbolt a lot of the dashboard in order to slide it far back enough to get the blower out. Which way you do it is up to you.
During installation the bolts lineup but box sits a bit lower? Doesn't make sense. Anybody?
Why people say u gotta take the whole dashboard apart instead of going back there ibehin the glovebox ?
Would a bad valve, hose or condensation cause a hissing noise from inside that stops when turning the steering wheel a bit?
Can I use a endoscope to look at the evaporator without taking things apart ?
Also, is this the cause for a hissing noise from the vents that stops the moment you turn left or right a bit on your steering wheel ?
I have 2011 Honda Odyssey, the blower motor assembly can't get it out in one piece. I have to separate blower motor and ducts, then only it came out. Its really stupid design and not easy task to replace for common people. I see Honda service center charging $1200 for expansion valve replacement.
Great Video! Thanks for the simple explanation
Interior work under the dash is my least favorite part of automotive work. 🥵 This video was top notch. 👌
How you got a head mounted camera up under the dash to film this impressive all by itself.
To other viewers, normally you have to spend a LOT more pain and suffering on this job by disassembling the entire dash. Props to HappyWrenching for figuring out a safe shortcut. (Pun intended) 🔧 🍻
Thing is..............what are the symptoms of having a bad evaporator?
How would a non HVAC tech know whether the issue was the evaporator, the condenser, the compressor, the entire system, or something else?
Why are some vehicle air conditioners colder than others? I've had vehicles where you get goosebumps from the A/C on even the hottest of days and other vehicles where the A/C was cool, at best.
Cutting the brace? The point of the brace is to support trlhe dash. Big no no
@happywrenching what socket was that used in the first part of the video
?
I have a 2004 Honda Accord ex 2.4L sedan and I used to have blowing cold ac one day it went from cold to hot out of nowhere the ac clutch moves n all dat but could a bad expansion valve be the cause of this ? I wanted to know Becuase I don’t want to end up buying a whole new compressor if that’s not the case , I already changed the fuse to
Excellent - thanks! Friend brought over his 07 Civic with no AC - checked fuses and relays and they were good. Only found pressure on the high side and then too much. How can I know if it's a clogged expansion valve/condenser and not the compressor? What's the real clue?
Thanks!
How did you diagnose the problem so you decided to change this expansion valve? My AC pump is running (clutch engages) and I can see refrigerant flow over "sight screen" on high pressure line for first minute, but blower does not blow cold after after that...Thanks for the video...
Pressures and noise mainly. Can you hear a hissing noise under the footwell when the AC is on after the first minute?
@@teravolt6113 Thanks for the response. Yesterday I conducted pressure test. Here is the result.
Ambient temp is 74 F
1- Initial static pressure: Low -> 80 psi, High -> 85 psi.
2- Right after A/C enabled: Low -> 40 psi, High -> 100 psi.
3- After 10 minutes with A/C enabled: Low- > 65 psi, High -> 110 psi.
I believe this problem either related to expansion valve or A/C compressor, but I could not make sure of that.
Any thoughts?
@@bolatdinc3211 High doesn't budge too far from static and the 65 psig suction is very high and matches to about 66 F evaporator temperature, no wonder that you don't get cold air. The very low discharge pressure and high suction pressure might be caused by a stuck open TXV. Do you see frost anywhere on the low side? What's the superheat at the low side test port?
@@teravolt6113 When I checked the temperature of High and Low pressure lines, their temperature was nearly equal. I did not feel too hot on high side and too low on low side. When I used IR temperature gun to measure these two lines I saw 118 F on High side, and 100 F on Low side. My readings might be wrong, but one thing for sure is, I did not notice any excessive cold/hot on these lines....
@@bolatdinc3211 Very strange stuff. But it's either a worn compressor, no longer able to generate enough of a discharge flow, or a TXV that stays open and fills the evaporator up with liquid not allowing any expansion to take place. An insufficient refrigerant charge would show itself by generating a painfully low suction pressure. Again, please tell me if you hear any loud and constant hissing in the footwell when the AC is on. And calculate the superheat beyond the evaporator's outlet, that's another way to check if the TXV is closing or it's staying open.
Thank for you making this video. It did help a lot. You made it look too easy, although in my case I had an extremely hard time getting the cover off due to a clip it has at the top that connects to a tube right above the cover. I ended up cracking the cover but patched it up with some expoxy.
I did aswell due to mis information there are a total of 10 Philip screw instead of said 9 he said
Do I have to cut the plastic just to get to the expansion valve? Or is this optional?
Why didn't you just replace the expansion valve through the hole in the firewall, I have done so many that way.
I wanted to show the evaporator removal
This was a BIG help. Thank you
Great video. I need help! I am from the UK and have a 2007 ex accord. I have followed this video to try to check the evaporator temperature sensor. But the senor doesn't appear to be on the evaporator cover. Does anyone where it is?
The statement he mentions that he had to do replace his txv replacement because the rock auto valve he put in was bad. Thats whey after you replace a major component evacuate, recharge, and operate the system,(even without the blower fan) to verify the fix BEFORE you button up with all the screws. This guy did the opposite. Still a good job.
What was the torque for the expansion valve
Hey great video,! If i changed all my ac components and flushed the lines. Can i just pour the required oil into the compressor . I drained the oil in the new compressor and added 9 oz.
Very helpful. I was able to do this much better with the video.
Exceptional video. Mine is fairly easy on a Saab 900NG. Except the tubes on the aftermarket evap don't match up to the lines in the engine bay. Is there a way to bend them? Would a propane torch help? Thanks!
Great video. However, it's not necessary to cut that support out behind the glove box. The blower housing will come out and go back in. The dash is flexible enough to where you can pull it back with one hand and not have difficulty getting it out.
Glad I read through the comments about to do one tomorrow and did not want to cut the support out. I know It makes things easier but I’d rather not start cutting the dash apart lol
I have not done this particular job but never would I think to start chopping things in half just so I can get to them...... Why didn't he just unbolt that side? He was only going to flex it back anyway (which is what he did, only with it chopped in half!!!!)
@Jez2008UK the service manual tells you to cut that out. There's barely anything holding it in that you have to cut, basically 4 tiny tabs
@@CL9PL service manuals are written by engineers who don't have a clue on how to work on the things they actually design. There's more than one way to do things if you stop and think.
Wtf does it matter as long as it gets the job done? Cutting that small piece plastic out is not gonna take away from the value of the car OR cause it to run any different. If you dont like the way he did HIS video then go make your own video instead of being a coat tail rider
Will the process be about the same on a 2011 honda accord ex
My repair video would be about the same, except insert few words like F*CK, SH*T, SONOFAB*TCH thorought the video.
Question. I heard you can just remove it from the engine bay? Any luck with just trying it that way? I have a 04 civic I need to do this to
Really appreciate this video. Just one question though, wouldn't you want to flush the evaporator if you already going through all the trouble to remove it?
what was the problem you were having that had to have this job done
I wish this worked on a 2004 model. It has a slightly different connection at the expansion valve and I have forgotten what holds it on. It has a rubber grommet on the outside and you have 2, 10mm nuts that hold a plate that is holding the lines in place. It helps to remove that plate and pull the rubber grommet out so the lines are free!
Good video. People in the comments are just lazy. The specs are online. Look them up. This man is busy
Hey I have a 2005 accord and started noticing a water rushing/dripping sound somewhere in the passenger lower dash area. I've checked the drains by the windshield and they drain fine. I have also pulled the carpet back and blown air and used a long zip tie to try and clear out the drain hose but nothing came running out. When the A/C is on it seems to drip normal so wondering where else I need to check. Could water build up in the blower and not leak onto the passenger carpet? Can water be trapped behind the firewall? Any advise would be great.
Any tips on how to get the hose manifold to line up with the evaporator? I replaced all the hoses on my Accord and I'm having a really difficult time getting them to line up.
I have a 2010 accord 4cyl , can you remove the expansion valve outside the engine compartment without taking all the evaporator out the car , it just remove the both lines connected to the expansion valve ?
Whistle noise that is making me nuts from vents now after jog was done. Only way it goes off is when you shut hvac control off.Any Ideas?
Sorry time off refilling gas
I think you should remove high pressure pipe ( red one )
Plz check again
Very cool, thanks for teaching people, I noticed that you weighed refrigerant @1:32 -1:35 , What is the weight of the car's refrigerant gas?
@happywrenching do u have to push the line back just to nremove that cover ? I don’t have no tool for that one
Sir you were right on ....
Thanks So much ...
Took what I thought was a Big Deal , and made it Manageable.
Got Laid off Riffed during Covad 19.
This was a major Savings .
Thanks So much!!!!
I took my 2005 civic in to Carter Honda (Vancouver BC), and thought "10 years old, maybe give the AC a boost, do the refrigerant" - so i did, I know its a rip off but I was willing to pay to have it done right.
So I get the car back and they say my expansion valve is shot, $500+ to replace. The notes on the work order note that they added refrigerant and now the system is out of spec. I didn't have the money to replace at the time and personally think they screwed it up.
Anyway, over the year (or more since the servicing) I've had rainy days when I use the AC or hot days when i use the AC and notice that the system:
1) seems to almost stall the engine sometimes (I notice the compressor kicks on, the idle drops, then the compressor kicks off - all within a second)
2) discharges a mist out the bottom of the car
3) if idle, AC on then accelerating (ie: 1500rpm; any gas) sometimes the belt will squeel until everything seems to sync up.
I believe these 3 symptoms are from the system being overfilled and a release valve is dumping the excess pressure out the bottom of the car.
This year, as the summer is coming, I'm looking into fixing the problem. Do you think I should:
A - take it someone that knows what they're doing, having it recharged/tested - OR -
B - replace the expansion valve, etc
When the system stays running (most of the time; the belt squeel is the only problem that happens regularly now) it produces cold air. Personally I think it still smells but that might be from the cleaning products they also added etc.
Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
I need to do this to my 07 Accord v6. Thank you
This is how videos should be made, straigth to the point, save the bullshit for later. Great work my friend!
Great video! It helped me not have to guess where all the screws were to take it apart. Thanks man! It was a very time consuming project though. It took me a few hours...
Can you please tell us which evaporator you used as replacement and where did you get the insulation you put around the expansion valve? Thanks
Your videos are very good. You are very intelligent
Understand to add pag oil to new evap core, but was that not the old one you remove from vehicle and added oil??
i have a nissan cube with a a bad freon leak last 3 hours, the freon leak detector beeps at the drain hose under the car i know is the evaporator do you think i have to remove the dash board or i can replace it like this car
How much they charge to do that work anybody Know