If you need more detailed disassembly vids check out parts 4, 5, and 6. Part 4: Barrel and Forend. th-cam.com/video/64I2AXLoEO4/w-d-xo.html Part 5: Receiver and Bolt. th-cam.com/video/PF8C-RfqrsA/w-d-xo.html Part 6: Trigger Group and Stock. th-cam.com/video/P2VA45cf_g8/w-d-xo.html
Great camera work, clear concise narration, hands never get in the way on video. The strap wrench is a pure genius idea. I can't wait to get to the next video. I have been waiting 4 years for these videos to arrive. Thank you Cameron.
I wish I had the original spanner wrench that was shipped with the gun like one commenter has mentioned, that would be cool; instead I used the next best thing... the strap wrench. Thank you for your kind words, I'm glad that these vids are helping people out.
As I said in a previous post (or think I did as getting old stinks) these videos are so well done, one might believe a professional director, camera person, etc. was filming all of the videos. Content is extremely well done. This 70 year old stripped his down and back together without issue. Thanks so much,
Thank you so much, that really means alot. So glad that you've enjoyed this series and that it's been of some assistance to you. Thanks again for watching and for your comments.
Absolutely the best complete disassembly and reassembly on youtube. Great job Cameron I just acquired a 1911 a few days ago it needs some work it came to me without the stock and of course no action springs or spring rod and a cracked forend. So it's a work in progress and thanks to you I feel good about doing my own work. I only have one hand so I have to do lots of things different lol. I have watched all your 1911 vids they were just what I needed. Thanks again Cameron!!
Thank you for your kind words, I'm glad my vids can help you out. With how old they are and how they've been treated it seems like most of them need some work haha. Luckily there's folks out there like us that want to save them. I wish you the best with your project. Here's some good websites that have parts if need be. I'm sure you know or have come across some of them: numrich gun parts, jack first gun parts, macon gun stocks, CFN parts, and even Wolff springs sells a 1911 spring. Those and ebay have been very good friends of mine. If you have any other questions or comments feel free to ask or share, I'll be here. Thanks for watching and for your comment.
Nice! Was it pretty dirty in there? It's incredible to take something apart, especially a gun that hasn't been cleaned in who knows how long and see what kind of grime is in there.
@@CRoutdoor To my great astonishment, it was disappointingly clean. I guess my grandfather must have been taking very good care of it. Now I just can't wait to test shoot it! (Which isn't easy if you live in the city...)
Thank you so much for this video. You helped my tear down mine that I bought from my great uncle with no idea what I was getting into. Just wanted to keep it in the family but mine, too, looks like it hasn't been cleaned in 70 years. I'm hoping I can get the thing running again and enjoy it. Thinking about putting all the metal pieces in my ultrasonic cleaner to help break down all the built up grime.
That's awesome, so glad I was able to help you out and that you were able to keep it in your family. I feel like most of them haven't been cleaned in forever haha. Best of luck in getting it running again. If everything is sound and in good working order they are really fun to shoot. Be safe and have fun with it. Thanks for watching and for your comment.
I inherited my grandfathers and it has never been cleaned , from what my uncle told be it’s so dirty it sam fires every round so your video is gonna be helpful for the in-depth cleaning it’s about to go threw
Congrats on the inheritance, that's awesome! Hope the vids help you out and cleaning resolves the slam fire issue. If not, some parts may need replacing. Let me know how it goes, I'll be here to help if need be. Thanks for watching.
to Cameron, and others. regarding the reinsertion of the spring into the butt stock. easy peezy. while the woooden guide rod is out compress the spring onto the wooden rod until 'full.' PUT A PAPER CLIP through the hole on the metal end cap. this will leave about 6-8 inches of spring. put trigger assy in place, as close as possible to being fully inserted into stock - nearly all the way - then pull paper clip. BESURE TO HAVE A FIRM GRIP ON THINGS TO HOLD IN PLACE AND INSTALL SCREW. FYI
I talk about it a little bit in video part 6 at the 13:30 mark. It pushes the bolt spring follower down the tang and into the stock initiating some timing and trigger reset functions. The bolt return spring in the stock then pushes it back closed. That's a brief explanation, if you need more, just let me know. Glad you liked the vid and thanks for watching.
The thought probably went something like "We're already losing a ton of money to that Auto 5/Rem 11; better not infringe on patents so we don't get sued on top of that." It's quirky for sure.
Thanks! Glad they can help you out. The best sources for parts I've found are Numrich and Jack First, but ebay and gunbroker can have some good finds too. I've also made a couple (namely recoil buffers) from more available modern materials. I go over those in the detailed disassembly vids. Congratulations on your new purchase, they are a fun gun to learn about and shoot. Thanks for watching and for your comment. If you have any more comments or questions, I'll be here.
Good day to you this warm September morning! Hey, in your opinion, since you have been into this firearm extensively right down to the brass tax, what is it that Actualy pulls the barrel back? Is there some sort of catch where the bolt interacts with the breach of the barrel and physically pulls it back? If so, do you feel that this catch mechanism in there is robust? I can’t help but think that, pulling that entire barrel back against that spring pressure creates a tremendous amount of resistance for the bolt mechanism or whatever pulls that barrel back. Please reply to this comment and let me know. Thank you so much.
@@stihlsawrepairs7955 Hello! So, this gun is recoil operated. Meaning that upon firing, the force that propels the shot/projectile forward has an equal and opposite force to the rear. That force is what is bringing the bolt and the barrel all the way back to the rear of the receiver. At the rear of the receiver, the bolt locks back briefly while the barrel is pushed forward by the main recoil spring covered by the handguard. As the barrel goes almost all the way forward it trips a lever in the receiver to release the bolt and then the bolt return spring in the stock pushes the bolt forward picking up a new round on the way. (You can see this in slow motion in my loading/shooting video). These are definitely strong forces acting on these parts but nothing that it can't handle with standard loadings. Premature wear would probably happen with super heavy or high velocity ammo, but an average to light loading should be just fine. The parts taking the brunt of it are going to be those springs I mentioned, but springs are generally sacrificial parts anyway that should be replaced to keep the other parts in good working order. I hope all that made sense and answered your questions.
Unfortunately no video, but I can try to explain it. I put some release agent (grease, heavy oil, or wax) on the metal where it touches and cleaned the wood portion. I then put the epoxy/acraglass/jb weld on the wood and pressed them together. After curing, the epoxy was bonded to the wood but released from the metal in its exact shape. I then shaped the portion attached to the wood to keep the same lines and cleaned off all the release agent from the metal. I have found it to be a decent but temporary solution. I'll be working on a more permanent solution which I'll make into a video. Hope the explanation makes sense. If you have any more thoughts or questions, I'll be here. Thanks for watching and commenting.
My 1911 I got from a friend as a gift is very Rusty and makes it difficult to load and do anything also the wood around the mag tube has a big part missing what would be the best was to clean so it's safe to shoot sandpaper? Wire brush? Seal wool oil thanks
Without seeing how bad it is, it's hard to give advice. For metal parts, I've become a fan of boiling or steaming. For the wood it depends on how much is missing. I have an unlisted playlist of some videos that I found very helpful when I was deciding to fix up old guns. They talk alot about boiling/steaming the metal parts. I'll post a link to it so you can watch them. It's a bit long to watch them all but I highly recommend it. The knowledge presented is better than anything you'll find anywhere else. I hope they help you to make an informed decision with your gun. th-cam.com/play/PL0TYFHA972_uZhGOq7AzJ3LbrrR7A1qrp.html
I love these weird shotguns. It may be inferior to an auto 5 but it has a lot of soul and I dont regret mine at all. Do you know where I could find a new stock set? The one I got is beat to hell, all the wood is cracked badly
@@NitroDubzzz Thanks for watching and telling people about the wrench I used. Glad you found a stock set. I also really like the guns that history/people forgot about.
You might be just the guy who can help me out! What would cause the bolt to stay stuck in the backward position? I was gifted a rough shape of this mod. as a kid and the bolt will not move for me?
I'm sure you've tried some of the things I'll mention but I'll go from basic and work up in case anyone else has this or a similar issue. 1.) Rust or corrosion has locked up various parts thus preventing the bolt from going forward. 2.) The bolt catch is in the "catch" position. If holding the gun in a firing position, "catch" is pressed right to left. Release is pressed left to right. I go over it a bit in vid 2 at 8:09 3.) The bolt stop is in the up / "stop" position and/or is damaged. I go over this a little in vid 3 at 10:38 and vid 5 at 23:11 4.)The interaction between the barrel extension, and the bolt stop isn't right. In vid 4 at 26:31 my left thumb is almost right on a ledge that runs straight from right to left and slopes as it nears my left thumb. That slope presses the bolt stop down as the barrel returns forward in the firing process. If that slope is worn/damaged or the mating surface on the bolt stop is worn/damaged it would not press the bolt stop down and therefore not allow the bolt to move forward. 5.) The bolt spring vid 6 at 3:38 and/or the bolt spring follower vid 6 at 13:28 and/or the bolt locking block operating rod vid 5 at 31:47 is damaged or non existent thus not springing the bolt forward. I know this is a lot of info and I hope it can help you out. Just take your time and make sure things are clean. It's amazing the problems that can go away as you clean. If you have more questions, feel free to ask and I'll do what I can to help. Thanks for watching and thanks for your question.
@@CRoutdoor thank you so much it truly means a lot to me. Im going to go over every video of yours and esp touch on the parts you mentioned i have some faith il get it sorted. The shotgun was giving to me before my teens so a long time ago an was rode pretty hard. The stocks were fiberglass over to give them some support as it was a duck gun an they were damaged over time because the original owner put food on the table with it so it wasn't a show piece. Also it was apparently left in a basement that was flooded at one point. I took everything apart except for the internals of the receiver way back when i originally got it and it has sat since. I recently bought my father an old mod 94 Winchester and myself a mod 12 Winchester so got to thinking about the SL and did the serial number look up and its actually the a first year run made in 1911 (so the web page i found said) and found that pretty cool as well. So now its my new project to bring it back to life. Its crazy to think that this shotgun i have now fed a family for many years. Only if it could talk. Thanks for the excellent detailed series you've done for this shotgun.
@@Junior-fd8ux Thank you for your kind words. I really hope you can fix it up and get it running again especially since it's a first year gun, that's pretty cool. I can't count the number of times I've said "if only it could talk"; especially lately with a project I've been doing. I wish you the best with it and again, don't hesitate to send questions my way, I'll gladly help where I can. Also, if you want, keep me updated on the progress; I'd love to hear how it goes.
I urge extreme caution if your gun is firing fully automatic. Don't shoot it, don't let anyone else shoot it, don't even load it because you're not sure exactly what's going on with the internals. I recommend getting it fixed or destroying it. If left as is and it get's passed on to someone who is unaware of it's condition, it has the potential to ruin their life. With that being said I doubt one left the factory capable of full auto fire so I wouldn't say a "factory" defect, but it is still a defect because something is not functioning properly. This may be caused by dirtiness, damaged part(s) or a combination of the two. Off the top of my head, some things to check first would be: a dirty/stuck firing pin which could cause a slam fire, a damaged or non existent firing pin spring also could cause a slam fire, worn catches/ledges of the sear and hammer which could cause the hammer to slip off the ledge and drop upon the violent closing of the bolt or ride the bolt forward which under certain circumstances could cause the gun to discharge. Again, use extreme caution and If you feel uncomfortable in any way, take it to a qualified gunsmith and have them look it over.
i upland hunted with it for years .kind of heavy.but never had a problem. or fired it that way .it was my grandfather's gun to my father and to me.my father told me it fires that way .haven't tried it
I have a winchester model 11 and mine has a spring on the bolt. Does that suppose to be there? I ask because I cannot get the trigger to fire when completely assembled. However, it will when disassembled.
I'm not 100% sure what you mean by "a spring on the bolt". In video 5 I go over bolt disassembly more in depth where there's only 3 springs in the bolt. Those are the cartridge cutoff plunger spring, the extractor spring and the firing pin spring. In video 6 from 1:27:08 to 1:32:55 I talk about a problem I had that sounds very similar to yours with firing disassembled but not when assembled. The solution was to not screw the magazine tube in all the way so that the top ledge of the barrel extension is flush with the top front of the receiver. Hopefully this makes sense, if not,, go watch that section of vid 6 and it might make more sense to help you out.
@@CRoutdoor ok thank you. If it doesn't I will be taking it to a gunsmith. This gun has been in the family for 5 generations now and had enough goo in it to prove it. The wood is great condition for it's age.
@@joshualmcgee88 That's cool that it's been in your family that long; if only it could talk. Also good to hear that the wood is good on it. Thanks again for watching.
Thanks for mentioning that. I probably should have put it here in case anyone has or had any questions on it. I do however describe it a bit in Pt. 4 of this series at 42 min 27 sec. Thanks for watching and your comment.
This is supposed to be a hunting rifle. That's what all snipers are. They totally differ from assault rifles. Which means, they're all constructed much differently. Certain rifles you have to load and unload manually. 🙄
If you need more detailed disassembly vids check out parts 4, 5, and 6.
Part 4: Barrel and Forend. th-cam.com/video/64I2AXLoEO4/w-d-xo.html
Part 5: Receiver and Bolt. th-cam.com/video/PF8C-RfqrsA/w-d-xo.html
Part 6: Trigger Group and Stock. th-cam.com/video/P2VA45cf_g8/w-d-xo.html
Great camera work, clear concise narration, hands never get in the way on video. The strap wrench is a pure genius idea. I can't wait to get to the next video. I have been waiting 4 years for these videos to arrive. Thank you Cameron.
I wish I had the original spanner wrench that was shipped with the gun like one commenter has mentioned, that would be cool; instead I used the next best thing... the strap wrench. Thank you for your kind words, I'm glad that these vids are helping people out.
As I said in a previous post (or think I did as getting old stinks) these videos are so well done, one might believe a professional director, camera person, etc. was filming all of the videos. Content is extremely well done. This 70 year old stripped his down and back together without issue. Thanks so much,
Thank you so much, that really means alot. So glad that you've enjoyed this series and that it's been of some assistance to you.
Thanks again for watching and for your comments.
These videos are a Godsend. Thank you for making a good quality video(s) on these really cool guns.
It was my pleasure. I'm glad that some people are benefitting from them.
Absolutely the best complete disassembly and reassembly on youtube. Great job Cameron I just acquired a 1911 a few days ago it needs some work it came to me without the stock and of course no action springs or spring rod and a cracked forend. So it's a work in progress and thanks to you I feel good about doing my own work. I only have one hand so I have to do lots of things different lol. I have watched all your 1911 vids they were just what I needed. Thanks again Cameron!!
Thank you for your kind words, I'm glad my vids can help you out. With how old they are and how they've been treated it seems like most of them need some work haha. Luckily there's folks out there like us that want to save them. I wish you the best with your project. Here's some good websites that have parts if need be. I'm sure you know or have come across some of them: numrich gun parts, jack first gun parts, macon gun stocks, CFN parts, and even Wolff springs sells a 1911 spring. Those and ebay have been very good friends of mine.
If you have any other questions or comments feel free to ask or share, I'll be here.
Thanks for watching and for your comment.
Thanks for the tip about using a strap wrench! I got mine from Amazon today and I finally managed to disassemble my gun.
Nice! Was it pretty dirty in there? It's incredible to take something apart, especially a gun that hasn't been cleaned in who knows how long and see what kind of grime is in there.
@@CRoutdoor To my great astonishment, it was disappointingly clean. I guess my grandfather must have been taking very good care of it.
Now I just can't wait to test shoot it! (Which isn't easy if you live in the city...)
@@BengtAlverborg Interesting. Like you say, he must've taken care of it... or rarely used it. I hope it runs well for you!
Excellent presentation! Well done 👊
@@stihlsawrepairs7955 Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the compliment and for watching.
Thank you so much for this video. You helped my tear down mine that I bought from my great uncle with no idea what I was getting into. Just wanted to keep it in the family but mine, too, looks like it hasn't been cleaned in 70 years. I'm hoping I can get the thing running again and enjoy it. Thinking about putting all the metal pieces in my ultrasonic cleaner to help break down all the built up grime.
That's awesome, so glad I was able to help you out and that you were able to keep it in your family. I feel like most of them haven't been cleaned in forever haha.
Best of luck in getting it running again. If everything is sound and in good working order they are really fun to shoot.
Be safe and have fun with it.
Thanks for watching and for your comment.
I inherited my grandfathers and it has never been cleaned , from what my uncle told be it’s so dirty it sam fires every round so your video is gonna be helpful for the in-depth cleaning it’s about to go threw
Congrats on the inheritance, that's awesome!
Hope the vids help you out and cleaning resolves the slam fire issue. If not, some parts may need replacing.
Let me know how it goes, I'll be here to help if need be.
Thanks for watching.
to Cameron, and others. regarding the reinsertion of the spring into the butt stock. easy peezy. while the woooden guide rod is out compress the spring onto the wooden rod until 'full.' PUT A PAPER CLIP through the hole on the metal end cap. this will leave about 6-8 inches of spring. put trigger assy in place, as close as possible to being fully inserted into stock - nearly all the way - then pull paper clip. BESURE TO HAVE A FIRM GRIP ON THINGS TO HOLD IN PLACE AND INSTALL SCREW. FYI
Awesome tip! Thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind for next time.
Thanks for watching and for your contribution.
Saludos cordiales, soy cazador y tengo una winchester modelo 1911sl, a la que se le partió la pieza que enrosca en el cañón.
The “rod” extending out the back of the bolt into the stock--what’s its purpose? Does it catch on something in the stock ? Thanks Excellent video
I talk about it a little bit in video part 6 at the 13:30 mark.
It pushes the bolt spring follower down the tang and into the stock initiating some timing and trigger reset functions. The bolt return spring in the stock then pushes it back closed.
That's a brief explanation, if you need more, just let me know.
Glad you liked the vid and thanks for watching.
The "Widow Maker". I always wondered WTF they were thinking when they decided to knurl the barrel so you could grip it when cocking the thing.
The thought probably went something like "We're already losing a ton of money to that Auto 5/Rem 11; better not infringe on patents so we don't get sued on top of that." It's quirky for sure.
That's how collectibles are born
Great work Cameron! Very Helpful. Yesterday I purchased this gun at a Gun show. Do you know of a good source for replacement parts ?
Thanks! Glad they can help you out.
The best sources for parts I've found are Numrich and Jack First, but ebay and gunbroker can have some good finds too.
I've also made a couple (namely recoil buffers) from more available modern materials. I go over those in the detailed disassembly vids.
Congratulations on your new purchase, they are a fun gun to learn about and shoot.
Thanks for watching and for your comment. If you have any more comments or questions, I'll be here.
Good day to you this warm September morning! Hey, in your opinion, since you have been into this firearm extensively right down to the brass tax, what is it that Actualy pulls the barrel back? Is there some sort of catch where the bolt interacts with the breach of the barrel and physically pulls it back? If so, do you feel that this catch mechanism in there is robust? I can’t help but think that, pulling that entire barrel back against that spring pressure creates a tremendous amount of resistance for the bolt mechanism or whatever pulls that barrel back. Please reply to this comment and let me know. Thank you so much.
@@stihlsawrepairs7955 Hello! So, this gun is recoil operated. Meaning that upon firing, the force that propels the shot/projectile forward has an equal and opposite force to the rear. That force is what is bringing the bolt and the barrel all the way back to the rear of the receiver. At the rear of the receiver, the bolt locks back briefly while the barrel is pushed forward by the main recoil spring covered by the handguard. As the barrel goes almost all the way forward it trips a lever in the receiver to release the bolt and then the bolt return spring in the stock pushes the bolt forward picking up a new round on the way. (You can see this in slow motion in my loading/shooting video).
These are definitely strong forces acting on these parts but nothing that it can't handle with standard loadings. Premature wear would probably happen with super heavy or high velocity ammo, but an average to light loading should be just fine. The parts taking the brunt of it are going to be those springs I mentioned, but springs are generally sacrificial parts anyway that should be replaced to keep the other parts in good working order.
I hope all that made sense and answered your questions.
Do you have a video of how you fixed the end of the forearm stock with the glass epoxy?
Unfortunately no video, but I can try to explain it.
I put some release agent (grease, heavy oil, or wax) on the metal where it touches and cleaned the wood portion. I then put the epoxy/acraglass/jb weld on the wood and pressed them together. After curing, the epoxy was bonded to the wood but released from the metal in its exact shape. I then shaped the portion attached to the wood to keep the same lines and cleaned off all the release agent from the metal.
I have found it to be a decent but temporary solution. I'll be working on a more permanent solution which I'll make into a video.
Hope the explanation makes sense.
If you have any more thoughts or questions, I'll be here.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
My 1911 I got from a friend as a gift is very Rusty and makes it difficult to load and do anything also the wood around the mag tube has a big part missing what would be the best was to clean so it's safe to shoot sandpaper? Wire brush? Seal wool oil thanks
Without seeing how bad it is, it's hard to give advice. For metal parts, I've become a fan of boiling or steaming. For the wood it depends on how much is missing.
I have an unlisted playlist of some videos that I found very helpful when I was deciding to fix up old guns. They talk alot about boiling/steaming the metal parts. I'll post a link to it so you can watch them. It's a bit long to watch them all but I highly recommend it. The knowledge presented is better than anything you'll find anywhere else. I hope they help you to make an informed decision with your gun.
th-cam.com/play/PL0TYFHA972_uZhGOq7AzJ3LbrrR7A1qrp.html
Saludos en que lugar puedo adquirir la pieza que enrosca en el cañón, de winchester modelo 1911sl.
Las empresas que yo he encontrado para comprar partes son Numrich, Jack First, Ebay y Gunbroker.
I love these weird shotguns. It may be inferior to an auto 5 but it has a lot of soul and I dont regret mine at all. Do you know where I could find a new stock set? The one I got is beat to hell, all the wood is cracked badly
@@NitroDubzzz Thanks for watching and telling people about the wrench I used. Glad you found a stock set. I also really like the guns that history/people forgot about.
@@CRoutdoor I'm blessed to have a guide as in depth as yours for this gun. I appreciate the dedication.
@@NitroDubzzz Thanks, I appreciate that.
You might be just the guy who can help me out! What would cause the bolt to stay stuck in the backward position? I was gifted a rough shape of this mod. as a kid and the bolt will not move for me?
I'm sure you've tried some of the things I'll mention but I'll go from basic and work up in case anyone else has this or a similar issue.
1.) Rust or corrosion has locked up various parts thus preventing the bolt from going forward.
2.) The bolt catch is in the "catch" position. If holding the gun in a firing position, "catch" is pressed right to left. Release is pressed left to right. I go over it a bit in vid 2 at 8:09
3.) The bolt stop is in the up / "stop" position and/or is damaged. I go over this a little in vid 3 at 10:38 and vid 5 at 23:11
4.)The interaction between the barrel extension, and the bolt stop isn't right. In vid 4 at 26:31 my left thumb is almost right on a ledge that runs straight from right to left and slopes as it nears my left thumb. That slope presses the bolt stop down as the barrel returns forward in the firing process. If that slope is worn/damaged or the mating surface on the bolt stop is worn/damaged it would not press the bolt stop down and therefore not allow the bolt to move forward.
5.) The bolt spring vid 6 at 3:38 and/or the bolt spring follower vid 6 at 13:28 and/or the bolt locking block operating rod vid 5 at 31:47 is damaged or non existent thus not springing the bolt forward.
I know this is a lot of info and I hope it can help you out. Just take your time and make sure things are clean. It's amazing the problems that can go away as you clean. If you have more questions, feel free to ask and I'll do what I can to help.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your question.
@@CRoutdoor thank you so much it truly means a lot to me. Im going to go over every video of yours and esp touch on the parts you mentioned i have some faith il get it sorted. The shotgun was giving to me before my teens so a long time ago an was rode pretty hard. The stocks were fiberglass over to give them some support as it was a duck gun an they were damaged over time because the original owner put food on the table with it so it wasn't a show piece. Also it was apparently left in a basement that was flooded at one point. I took everything apart except for the internals of the receiver way back when i originally got it and it has sat since. I recently bought my father an old mod 94 Winchester and myself a mod 12 Winchester so got to thinking about the SL and did the serial number look up and its actually the a first year run made in 1911 (so the web page i found said) and found that pretty cool as well. So now its my new project to bring it back to life. Its crazy to think that this shotgun i have now fed a family for many years. Only if it could talk.
Thanks for the excellent detailed series you've done for this shotgun.
@@Junior-fd8ux Thank you for your kind words. I really hope you can fix it up and get it running again especially since it's a first year gun, that's pretty cool. I can't count the number of times I've said "if only it could talk"; especially lately with a project I've been doing. I wish you the best with it and again, don't hesitate to send questions my way, I'll gladly help where I can. Also, if you want, keep me updated on the progress; I'd love to hear how it goes.
Have you ever replaced the fiber recoil buffer?
Yes. I talk more in depth about them and my replacement in video part 4 at 17:29.
my 1911sl A6446 is fully automatic. is that a factory defect?
I urge extreme caution if your gun is firing fully automatic. Don't shoot it, don't let anyone else shoot it, don't even load it because you're not sure exactly what's going on with the internals.
I recommend getting it fixed or destroying it. If left as is and it get's passed on to someone who is unaware of it's condition, it has the potential to ruin their life.
With that being said
I doubt one left the factory capable of full auto fire so I wouldn't say a "factory" defect, but it is still a defect because something is not functioning properly.
This may be caused by dirtiness, damaged part(s) or a combination of the two.
Off the top of my head, some things to check first would be: a dirty/stuck firing pin which could cause a slam fire, a damaged or non existent firing pin spring also could cause a slam fire, worn catches/ledges of the sear and hammer which could cause the hammer to slip off the ledge and drop upon the violent closing of the bolt or ride the bolt forward which under certain circumstances could cause the gun to discharge.
Again, use extreme caution and If you feel uncomfortable in any way, take it to a qualified gunsmith and have them look it over.
i upland hunted with it for years .kind of heavy.but never had a problem. or fired it that way .it was my grandfather's gun to my father and to me.my father told me it fires that way .haven't tried it
@@robhoward8589 Well, I guess just be safe and smart out there.
I have a winchester model 11 and mine has a spring on the bolt. Does that suppose to be there? I ask because I cannot get the trigger to fire when completely assembled. However, it will when disassembled.
I'm not 100% sure what you mean by "a spring on the bolt". In video 5 I go over bolt disassembly more in depth where there's only 3 springs in the bolt. Those are the cartridge cutoff plunger spring, the extractor spring and the firing pin spring.
In video 6 from 1:27:08 to 1:32:55 I talk about a problem I had that sounds very similar to yours with firing disassembled but not when assembled. The solution was to not screw the magazine tube in all the way so that the top ledge of the barrel extension is flush with the top front of the receiver.
Hopefully this makes sense, if not,, go watch that section of vid 6 and it might make more sense to help you out.
@@CRoutdoor ok thank you. If it doesn't I will be taking it to a gunsmith. This gun has been in the family for 5 generations now and had enough goo in it to prove it. The wood is great condition for it's age.
@@joshualmcgee88 That's cool that it's been in your family that long; if only it could talk. Also good to hear that the wood is good on it. Thanks again for watching.
you neglected to talk about the plug,removal or installation
Thanks for mentioning that. I probably should have put it here in case anyone has or had any questions on it. I do however describe it a bit in Pt. 4 of this series at 42 min 27 sec. Thanks for watching and your comment.
This is supposed to be a hunting rifle. That's what all snipers are. They totally differ from assault rifles. Which means, they're all constructed much differently. Certain rifles you have to load and unload manually. 🙄
This is about as far from a sniper as you can get