Ah yes part of the fall ritual for both of my om 617's, I also use a grease pencil to mark a slash on the intake manifold just to show which valves I've already done just in case I walk away for a few minutes and forget where I was.
I don't adjust valves in any particular order. I usually will start with the valve that is already in the 1 o'clock position or close to the 1 o'clock position. I adjust if necessary and then identify the valve that is next in line to the 1 o'clock position. Turn crank just enough to bring the next valve to the 1 o'clock position and again, adjust if necessary. I use a pen and paper to keep track of the valves that I go thru. Saves a lot of time.
Thanks Pierre for showing how to adjust the valves. I will be attempting to adjust the valves in my 240d this Thursday. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
absolutely love the hands on video style. would be good to see what it is the tools are going onto. either an illustration inserted or video close up with good lighting. You are a great friend to the classic benzo community Pierre, thanks for your work brodda! ~ Roger
wow , best video i have seen on this . i have a 77 300d , been driving it for 25000km and have not adjusted valves yet. not sure when it was done the last time. will do it next month
That valve swivel trick would have saved me a lot of time when I did my valves. I like to pull back the transmission cable boot to slip it through the gap, it pops off easily. Otherwise you risk damaging the boot bellows.
What a fantastic video Piere!!! Tumelo here from Randburg South Africa. I have a M102 engine and it's been sitting unfinished because I'm stuck on the positions of the lobes. I've been looking for a valve clearance adjustment for the M102 in my W123 200E for months now without luck. Every video is for a different engine with the valves on the same side(I hope this makes sense). Through your video, I am now educated on how I can tune my engine accordingly, except I'm still baffled by the part at 01:55 where there's specifications about engine temperature(this part I fully understand, cold engine means 0.15mm for inlet and 0.30mm for exhaust valve adjustment) and cam lobe positions. Can you show us exactly what that 32°=4500 and 15°(3° tolerance)=800 means please. I highly appreciate your assistance. Thanks.
Pierre you are 2 weeks too late after I pieced together internet hoopla and did the job already! Where were ya on that? Just kidding, thanks for the info to reference for the next one!
hello I have a 1981 240d. I will in the future do a full valve adjustment on my own, but in the meantime, I was going to replace the valve cover gasket which was leaking oil and I stupidly over torqued the bottom left nut that holds down the valve cover.. now the nut spins in place but won’t tighten or loosen… I have tried to pull it up with pliers but it won’t come up. I also tried to lift the valve cover off with all three remaining nuts properly removed but it won’t lift up. Can anyone give me some advice on how to remove the nut and then repair the nut/bolt which seem to have been stripped? I appreciate any advice. Thanks!
I have air bubbles in my reservoir tank with the engine running Is there anyway I can tell if it’s a head gasket or a cracked head without me moving the head
There is a lot of discussion about EGR and whether or not the reward is worth the hassle on diesel engines. As a result, a lot of people remove their EGR systems on their classic diesels through various means. How do you feel about the use of EGR on these engines?
Hi, I have a 560sl from 1987 with 55k ml that I bought at the end of 2018 I have solved several problems, but I cannot solve two problems. The engine overheats and runs at 90°c in the urban cycle and can go up to 100 in difficult conditions When the engine reaches around 85°C, I have a whistle towards the front of the engine but I can't find the origin. (Small point on the air conditioning: when the engine reaches around 85°c the protection temperature sensor cuts the air conditioning) Small point also on the motorway the temperature is around 85°c but when I stop at a toll (I am in France) the temperature suddenly rises to 100°c For the overheating I replaced the calorisatat, renovated the viscous coupler (which works well now, The catalyst has traces of overheating and when I checked the CO I was at 0 or even negative If you have a minute to help me I would be extremely grateful. Thank you for your videos which are a great technical support. Olivier
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This what viewers want more of….thank you…
Ah yes part of the fall ritual for both of my om 617's, I also use a grease pencil to mark a slash on the intake manifold just to show which valves I've already done just in case I walk away for a few minutes and forget where I was.
I don't adjust valves in any particular order. I usually will start with the valve that is already in the 1 o'clock position or close to the 1 o'clock position. I adjust if necessary and then identify the valve that is next in line to the 1 o'clock position. Turn crank just enough to bring the next valve to the 1 o'clock position and again, adjust if necessary. I use a pen and paper to keep track of the valves that I go thru. Saves a lot of time.
Awesome to see such a detailed video! Very excited for all of the MB diesel owners to learn this vital adjustment technique! Long live MB diesels!
You are an outstanding teacher. I so much appreciate the time you spent with me years ago. You are the best!
Thanks Pierre for showing how to adjust the valves. I will be attempting to adjust the valves in my 240d this Thursday. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
absolutely love the hands on video style. would be good to see what it is the tools are going onto. either an illustration inserted or video close up with good lighting. You are a great friend to the classic benzo community Pierre, thanks for your work brodda! ~ Roger
wow , best video i have seen on this . i have a 77 300d , been driving it for 25000km and have not adjusted valves yet. not sure when it was done the last time. will do it next month
That valve swivel trick would have saved me a lot of time when I did my valves. I like to pull back the transmission cable boot to slip it through the gap, it pops off easily. Otherwise you risk damaging the boot bellows.
What a fantastic video Piere!!! Tumelo here from Randburg South Africa. I have a M102 engine and it's been sitting unfinished because I'm stuck on the positions of the lobes. I've been looking for a valve clearance adjustment for the M102 in my W123 200E for months now without luck. Every video is for a different engine with the valves on the same side(I hope this makes sense). Through your video, I am now educated on how I can tune my engine accordingly, except I'm still baffled by the part at 01:55 where there's specifications about engine temperature(this part I fully understand, cold engine means 0.15mm for inlet and 0.30mm for exhaust valve adjustment) and cam lobe positions. Can you show us exactly what that 32°=4500 and 15°(3° tolerance)=800 means please. I highly appreciate your assistance. Thanks.
Pierre you are 2 weeks too late after I pieced together internet hoopla and did the job already! Where were ya on that? Just kidding, thanks for the info to reference for the next one!
First post in support of Floridian Mercedes Panda.
hello I have a 1981 240d. I will in the future do a full valve adjustment on my own, but in the meantime, I was going to replace the valve cover gasket which was leaking oil and I stupidly over torqued the bottom left nut that holds down the valve cover.. now the nut spins in place but won’t tighten or loosen… I have tried to pull it up with pliers but it won’t come up. I also tried to lift the valve cover off with all three remaining nuts properly removed but it won’t lift up. Can anyone give me some advice on how to remove the nut and then repair the nut/bolt which seem to have been stripped? I appreciate any advice. Thanks!
I have air bubbles in my reservoir tank with the engine running
Is there anyway I can tell if it’s a head gasket or a cracked head without me moving the head
There is a lot of discussion about EGR and whether or not the reward is worth the hassle on diesel engines. As a result, a lot of people remove their EGR systems on their classic diesels through various means. How do you feel about the use of EGR on these engines?
Hi,
I have a 560sl from 1987 with 55k ml that I bought at the end of 2018
I have solved several problems, but I cannot solve two problems.
The engine overheats and runs at 90°c in the urban cycle and can go up to 100 in difficult conditions
When the engine reaches around 85°C, I have a whistle towards the front of the engine but I can't find the origin. (Small point on the air conditioning: when the engine reaches around 85°c the protection temperature sensor cuts the air conditioning)
Small point also on the motorway the temperature is around 85°c but when I stop at a toll (I am in France) the temperature suddenly rises to 100°c
For the overheating I replaced the calorisatat, renovated the viscous coupler (which works well now,
The catalyst has traces of overheating and when I checked the CO I was at 0 or even negative
If you have a minute to help me I would be extremely grateful.
Thank you for your videos which are a great technical support.
Olivier
What is the normal charge for the valve adjust?
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Only a pro wears a white shirt on diesel stuff
This is a 2 man job
No it ain't