Here are a few things you might want for the maintenance on your OM617: Oil filter (Mann): amzn.to/3B4FB4G Oil filter (Mahle): amzn.to/3nIX8MW Oil filter stalk o-rings: amzn.to/3HTovKZ Oil (Buy locally, likely far better prices at your local autoparts place): amzn.to/3jRrC7t (Synthetic option: amzn.to/43fwWJ8) Fuel filter (Spin on): amzn.to/3M7fFMc Fuel filter (In-line): amzn.to/42kjaog Air filter: amzn.to/3HQtM6f Links on my channel are likely affiliate links, which earn me a small commission from your purchases at no additional cost to you!
Can you please show how to bleed everything in fuel system I had a hose someone Jerry rigged get hole in it and not being a diesel mechanic I got it to start but now it knocks and gets hot and cuts off I watched videos and did everything it show to bleed correctly and ran seafoam and diesel expert thru it and even bleed the overflow banjo bolt and nothing fixed it I’m thinking it’s injectors
The OE Mann design is also a safety feature to ensure that if the filter is clogged up/neglected the system will keep optimal flow at the cost of cleanliness. There is a pressure bypass valve inside the housing that will open direct to the turbo(to try to save it) if the dirty side of the filter is restricted to the point that it has a differential of 100psi vs the clean side of the filter. The pressures at various stages in the 617's oil system run anywhere from 4.5psi to 100psi. People mistakenly think that in modern times they're smarter than the MB engineers of the 80's. This happens with the guys swapping OM617's into their Toyotas. They have a great experience with the engine right up until the point where they decide to remove the entire OE filter housing and plumb in a spin-on oil filter mount. It eventually destroys the engine. There are stories online of people on their third motor finally going back to the stock oil filter system. A big old spin-on Fram filter cannot deal with the flow rates and pressure differences and it basically starves the motor of oil/pressure. The most worthy mod you can do to the oil system is tap the housing lid or other location for a (low)oil pressure sensor/switch to light an idiot light on the dash. When this system loses pressure you don't have very long before major damage, usually the turbo seizes first. If a noise causes you to look down at your oil pressure gauge it's too late. These cars need a light.
I had always wondered about the oil filter relocate. Never seemed to make much sense seeing how massive this filter is. As for the low oil (pressure) warning idiot light/buzzer you suggested, what’s the best location for it?
My last man filter came with the small O rings. The filter housing on mine the studs pulled out. When I got mine one stud was missing and replaced with a bolt. The second one pulled out and washed the engine in oil. I was able to catch it before it ran out. Thankfully I did not loose an engine.
Oh man, you really dodged a bullet there! I bet the studs had been overtightened or something, I haven't seen one back out yet, but I probably will now that I've said that. I bought the mann filters 6 at a time I believe, there was a deal on a case of them on rockauto or somewhere and I got one, I think I'm down to one or two left now. maybe they have started including the small orings now. That would be pretty cool!
@@trythistv i am baking a jeep engine swap in my head using a Jeep ZJ and XJ manual trans using an OM617, one of the things I want to get rid of is the filter and it's housing. I will use or make an adapter to use a remote mounted cartridge filter. Thinking of using a CAT style filter. The OEM filter was good for it's time however it makes a huge mess and the housing always leaks.
@@Engineerd3dread the comment from @kgm2182 above. He does not at all suggest deleting the original filter. I’m not too fond of it either. A relocated for more practical spot, sure, but not delete. Also, I never found the cartridge filters to be any less dirty. It’s all just in how they are handled.
Thank you for this outstanding video. I ordered using the links to the Mann filter and the packet of rubber rings. And while I was at it, I purchased a new oil pan and gasket. I would be lost without you my friend. Alex in Toledo
You are very welcome Alex! I really appreciate knowing my videos are helping folks out, I certainly love driving my 300D, and sharing all the little tricks and tips I learn along the way is fun too. I should probably think about doing an oil pan gasket on my car too sometime! Be careful, one bracket I think is on the turbo side of the engine has nuts on the top of the pan bolts, don't snap them off like I did on my other car...
By the way, removing the oil from above (with something like a Top Sider) works well on these engines. You can prove this to yourself by trying the drain plug after pumping from above. Be sure to remove the filter first so that oil can drain into the pan. No need to Jack the car that way. IMO, these 617s are the easiest oil change (if pumped from above) I've seen.
I work on boats and jetskis for a living, not a drain plug in sight lol I love my topsider oil pumps, I haven't really used them on my cars or trucks but it would be far less messy and less likely to break off my drain plug again... I'll try it for my next oil change!
Thanks for that input. I had just watched another video of someone using a hydraulic pump for the oil change. He did not check how much oil was left in the pan after doing it. I’ll give it a try on mine too. It works very well on two of my engines (BW BEW TDI, and Mercedes M266), it does not at all work on my Nissan VG33E.
Concerning oil type, the most important factor is to use a SAE Cx rated oil. This is diesel oil for Compression ignition engines, which produce much soot. Synthetics do a better job keeping the engine clean inside, or at least they did in the past. But you cannot extend oil change intervals even with synthetics because the main function of an oil change in diesel engines is removing soot. For viscosity, check the manual for your weather conditions but 10w40 covers almost all.
Yep, the Rotella I use is CK rated I believe, I've been running it in all my diesels for years with good results, and began running it in some of my gas engines with even better results. Cleans off sludge and deposits in engines that don't have a drain plug very nicely!
@@trythistv That's fine although Sx (spark ignition) oils lubricate better, all things being equal. Personally, I've use Mobile 1 or Rotella but oil formulations change constantly so M1 on shelves today is probably not the same aa when I started owning Diesels in 1988.
That’s a very good comment. BTW, I’ve always wondered about the Frantz filters. Would they be a good add on filtering out soot? (I supposed since toilet paper is not rated in microns 😂 there probably no way of knowing)
@@hanseich For "small" Diesel engines changing oil is the most economical way to remove soot. Really "big" Diesels (with huge oil reservoirs) have elaborate onboard oil filtration systems. Moderate amounts of suspended soot are not a problem but excessive suspended soot or soot that precipitates out of suspension is bad.
Nice information. Like you, I never knew about these O rings. I have owned several W123s and done many oil changes. I will order some of these for future uses. Thanks for the video.
Crush washer likely made to crush around 40 newton meters. Are you positive you stripped it and not the crush washer giving in at the torque spec as it was designed?
It snapped the drain plug clean in half. I've heard a number of folks on Reddit, peach parts and other forums recently that have had issues with drain pans stripping out when torqued to 40nm, and replacing the pan is a bit of a pain.
Nice. Mann vs Wix. Excellent as was the tip on the small O rings. 85 300CD here with about 170K. Have you done a diesel purge on this engine? Seems a bit loud to me with one persistent tap. First thing I did when I got mine and its significantly quieter now. I may just be FOS.
I have done a diesel purge, as well as new injector nozzles, it has always had a more pronounced tap but no clear cause. I need to roll in a new timing chain soon, Its had an offset key since I got it. I'm hoping a new chain will help it out!
It is a M12x1.5 drain plug, I had an aluminum one that I broke in this video that worked great for years that has since been discontinued, but it was basically the same as this one on amazon: amzn.to/48dfSXM But after breaking it I just went to a local auto parts place and grabbed a steel Dorman M12x1.5 drain plug, though I am tempted to try something like this: amzn.to/3YtqwX8 but I'm not sure if the O-ring will seal good against our pans.
@@hanseich No, the factory plug doesn't have a magnet, I was concerned about my engines condition when I got it and wanted to see if it was shedding metal, thankfully it wasn't, but the magnetic oil plug was a nice reassurance.
I'm not aware of this o-ring, perhaps it isn't on the om617? I don't think there is a timing cover, the chain runs through the block and head with no access I believe.
I would think a lack of power which could be any number of things like clogged filters, worn components, or poor tuning for the engine or transmission.
Concerning drain plug torque, 40 N-M (29 ft-lb) seems high but not excessive. My book shows that same value. As long as the plug doesn't leak or come lose it's OK. Just don't confuse this with 40 Kg-M (almost 300 ft-lb)
@@hanseich Yes. And most filters come with both the big rubber o-ring and that copper washer. There's another washer usually included that isn't used on a 123 or 126.
Here is where I got mine, it does appear the Mann branded filter is currently out of stock, but the Mahle filter is also an excellent quality ➡Oil filter (Mann): amzn.to/3B4FB4G ➡Oil filter (Mahle): amzn.to/3nIX8MW ➡Oil filter stalk o-rings: amzn.to/3HTovKZ
I never changed them until I made this video because it was a eureka moment for me. You can either pop the lid back off and change them out, or wait until your next oil change.
Nitrile should be ok, the thermostat for the oil cooler should keep the oil around 200f, and the nitrile o rings are rated safe to 250f, but Viton o rings could be used if there are concerns about temperature: amzn.to/460NwOD
@@trythistv We go through a lot of o-rings at my work, have found that the quality has really nose dived in recent years, for some applications we use the high temp (I thought they were Teflon? but not sure) simply because they hold up better even at lower than the rated temperature. For this application I would imagine simply replacing them every filter change would be adequate.
@@hoggravyandchitlins you know, I've noticed that I'm replacing more and more o rings recently, they don't seem to last like they used to. I bet that's what is going on. I feel like Teflon would be more of a split ring or scarf cut seal it might be called, Teflon is a lot harder. Viton is rated much higher temps, I will keep a close eye on these and if they show signs of deteriorating at my next oil change, I will swap to Viton and see how they last. OEM was supposedly the same EPDM/ buna-n/ nitrile that I used in the video, but if the quality isn't the same then it may be better to upgrade to a tougher material.
Olá, eu traduzi isso, espero que seja preciso o suficiente. O Fram ch5412 é o mesmo arranjo do filtro wix mostrado no vídeo, não possui a mídia do filtro bypass, não possui o benefício da filtragem extra para manter o óleo mais limpo e, por sua vez, fazer o motor durar mais. Eu pessoalmente não usaria no meu carro, tentaria localizar o Mann, Mahle ou outra marca que tenha a mídia bypass. É muito fácil dizer quais são assim. Se todo o filtro parece basicamente o mesmo, não é um filtro bypass, se houver 2 tipos distintos de mídia de filtro, como pode ser visto no filtro Mann no vídeo, então é um filtro bypass e protegerá melhor o seu motor! English in case that doesn't come through clear: Hello, I've translated this, hopefully it is accurate enough. The Fram ch5412 is the same arrangement as the wix filter shown in the video, it does not have the bypass filter media so it does not have that benefit of extra filtration to keep your oil cleaner and in turn make your motor last longer. I personally would not use it in my car, I would try to locate the Mann, Mahle or another brand that has the bypass media. It's pretty easy to tell which ones are that way. If the whole filter looks basically the same it is not a bypass filter, if there is 2 distinct types of filter media as can be seen on the Mann filter in the video then it is a bypass filter and will protect your engine better!
Não tenho certeza do que você está perguntando, ou talvez o Google não esteja pegando a tradução corretamente? I'm not sure what you're asking, or perhaps google isn't picking up the translation correctly?
I still believe the bypass media difference is still a thing even with mann-hummell owning wix. I typically love wix filters but not on my om617 engine, the mann branded filters have the bypass media for better filtration. Several other brands also do, but not wix sadly last I checked.
![Changing transmission fluid on my W123 (722.3 automatic) [W123 Transmission series PART 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0dx1mMF_tEw/mqdefault.jpg)
Here are a few things you might want for the maintenance on your OM617:
Oil filter (Mann): amzn.to/3B4FB4G
Oil filter (Mahle): amzn.to/3nIX8MW
Oil filter stalk o-rings: amzn.to/3HTovKZ
Oil (Buy locally, likely far better prices at your local autoparts place): amzn.to/3jRrC7t (Synthetic option: amzn.to/43fwWJ8)
Fuel filter (Spin on): amzn.to/3M7fFMc
Fuel filter (In-line): amzn.to/42kjaog
Air filter: amzn.to/3HQtM6f
Links on my channel are likely affiliate links, which earn me a small commission from your purchases at no additional cost to you!
Can you please show how to bleed everything in fuel system I had a hose someone Jerry rigged get hole in it and not being a diesel mechanic I got it to start but now it knocks and gets hot and cuts off I watched videos and did everything it show to bleed correctly and ran seafoam and diesel expert thru it and even bleed the overflow banjo bolt and nothing fixed it I’m thinking it’s injectors
Thanks I just bought one of these cars 3 months ago absolute pleasure to drive
One of the smoothest, most comfortable cars ever made. I love long trips in mine, they just cruise along so nice.
I just brought one two days ago. Still waiting for delivery. Can’t wait to see it. I used to have a W210, so I’m excited to see how it compares.
The OE Mann design is also a safety feature to ensure that if the filter is clogged up/neglected the system will keep optimal flow at the cost of cleanliness. There is a pressure bypass valve inside the housing that will open direct to the turbo(to try to save it) if the dirty side of the filter is restricted to the point that it has a differential of 100psi vs the clean side of the filter. The pressures at various stages in the 617's oil system run anywhere from 4.5psi to 100psi. People mistakenly think that in modern times they're smarter than the MB engineers of the 80's. This happens with the guys swapping OM617's into their Toyotas. They have a great experience with the engine right up until the point where they decide to remove the entire OE filter housing and plumb in a spin-on oil filter mount. It eventually destroys the engine. There are stories online of people on their third motor finally going back to the stock oil filter system. A big old spin-on Fram filter cannot deal with the flow rates and pressure differences and it basically starves the motor of oil/pressure. The most worthy mod you can do to the oil system is tap the housing lid or other location for a (low)oil pressure sensor/switch to light an idiot light on the dash. When this system loses pressure you don't have very long before major damage, usually the turbo seizes first. If a noise causes you to look down at your oil pressure gauge it's too late. These cars need a light.
I had always wondered about the oil filter relocate. Never seemed to make much sense seeing how massive this filter is.
As for the low oil (pressure) warning idiot light/buzzer you suggested, what’s the best location for it?
@@hanseich One of the blank "idiot light" spots on the dash just below the gauges.
@@kgm2182 sorry, I had meant the actual location for the sensor in the engine for the light/buzzer.
@@hanseich I mentioned it. Tap into the oil housing lid. There are images online of it.
@@kgm2182 thanks. Sorry I missed it initially.
My last man filter came with the small O rings. The filter housing on mine the studs pulled out. When I got mine one stud was missing and replaced with a bolt. The second one pulled out and washed the engine in oil. I was able to catch it before it ran out. Thankfully I did not loose an engine.
Oh man, you really dodged a bullet there! I bet the studs had been overtightened or something, I haven't seen one back out yet, but I probably will now that I've said that.
I bought the mann filters 6 at a time I believe, there was a deal on a case of them on rockauto or somewhere and I got one, I think I'm down to one or two left now. maybe they have started including the small orings now. That would be pretty cool!
@@trythistv i am baking a jeep engine swap in my head using a Jeep ZJ and XJ manual trans using an OM617, one of the things I want to get rid of is the filter and it's housing. I will use or make an adapter to use a remote mounted cartridge filter. Thinking of using a CAT style filter. The OEM filter was good for it's time however it makes a huge mess and the housing always leaks.
@@Engineerd3dread the comment from @kgm2182 above. He does not at all suggest deleting the original filter. I’m not too fond of it either. A relocated for more practical spot, sure, but not delete.
Also, I never found the cartridge filters to be any less dirty. It’s all just in how they are handled.
Thank you for this outstanding video. I ordered using the links to the Mann filter and the packet of rubber rings. And while I was at it, I purchased a new oil pan and gasket. I would be lost without you my friend. Alex in Toledo
You are very welcome Alex! I really appreciate knowing my videos are helping folks out, I certainly love driving my 300D, and sharing all the little tricks and tips I learn along the way is fun too.
I should probably think about doing an oil pan gasket on my car too sometime! Be careful, one bracket I think is on the turbo side of the engine has nuts on the top of the pan bolts, don't snap them off like I did on my other car...
Nice info on the oil filters.👍
Thanks! The extra media on the mann and mahle filters should really keep the oil clean. I'm a huge wix fan but not for my Mercedes anymore.
By the way, removing the oil from above (with something like a Top Sider) works well on these engines. You can prove this to yourself by trying the drain plug after pumping from above. Be sure to remove the filter first so that oil can drain into the pan. No need to Jack the car that way. IMO, these 617s are the easiest oil change (if pumped from above) I've seen.
I work on boats and jetskis for a living, not a drain plug in sight lol
I love my topsider oil pumps, I haven't really used them on my cars or trucks but it would be far less messy and less likely to break off my drain plug again...
I'll try it for my next oil change!
Thanks for that input. I had just watched another video of someone using a hydraulic pump for the oil change. He did not check how much oil was left in the pan after doing it. I’ll give it a try on mine too. It works very well on two of my engines (BW BEW TDI, and Mercedes M266), it does not at all work on my Nissan VG33E.
Concerning oil type, the most important factor is to use a SAE Cx rated oil. This is diesel oil for Compression ignition engines, which produce much soot. Synthetics do a better job keeping the engine clean inside, or at least they did in the past. But you cannot extend oil change intervals even with synthetics because the main function of an oil change in diesel engines is removing soot. For viscosity, check the manual for your weather conditions but 10w40 covers almost all.
Yep, the Rotella I use is CK rated I believe, I've been running it in all my diesels for years with good results, and began running it in some of my gas engines with even better results. Cleans off sludge and deposits in engines that don't have a drain plug very nicely!
@@trythistv That's fine although Sx (spark ignition) oils lubricate better, all things being equal. Personally, I've use Mobile 1 or Rotella but oil formulations change constantly so M1 on shelves today is probably not the same aa when I started owning Diesels in 1988.
That’s a very good comment. BTW, I’ve always wondered about the Frantz filters. Would they be a good add on filtering out soot? (I supposed since toilet paper is not rated in microns 😂 there probably no way of knowing)
@@hanseich For "small" Diesel engines changing oil is the most economical way to remove soot. Really "big" Diesels (with huge oil reservoirs) have elaborate onboard oil filtration systems. Moderate amounts of suspended soot are not a problem but excessive suspended soot or soot that precipitates out of suspension is bad.
Nice information. Like you, I never knew about these O rings. I have owned several W123s and done many oil changes. I will order some of these for future uses. Thanks for the video.
They're probably hard as a rock on 90% of the 617s out there!
Even the new ones come with all the little o rings. They do go on little plastic “wands” now, but they are still there.
Crush washer likely made to crush around 40 newton meters. Are you positive you stripped it and not the crush washer giving in at the torque spec as it was designed?
It snapped the drain plug clean in half. I've heard a number of folks on Reddit, peach parts and other forums recently that have had issues with drain pans stripping out when torqued to 40nm, and replacing the pan is a bit of a pain.
Nice. Mann vs Wix. Excellent as was the tip on the small O rings. 85 300CD here with about 170K. Have you done a diesel purge on this engine? Seems a bit loud to me with one persistent tap. First thing I did when I got mine and its significantly quieter now. I may just be FOS.
I have done a diesel purge, as well as new injector nozzles, it has always had a more pronounced tap but no clear cause. I need to roll in a new timing chain soon, Its had an offset key since I got it. I'm hoping a new chain will help it out!
remember to blow out the stem as it has a tiny hole just under the top cap ;)
Oh excellent point! I totally forgot to mention that!
where did u get drain plug with magnetic tip ? good job with video, need to do this job to my new 82 300DT
It is a M12x1.5 drain plug, I had an aluminum one that I broke in this video that worked great for years that has since been discontinued, but it was basically the same as this one on amazon: amzn.to/48dfSXM
But after breaking it I just went to a local auto parts place and grabbed a steel Dorman M12x1.5 drain plug, though I am tempted to try something like this: amzn.to/3YtqwX8 but I'm not sure if the O-ring will seal good against our pans.
@@trythistvI was wondering the same thing, if the original oil plugs have a magnet on them.
@@hanseich No, the factory plug doesn't have a magnet, I was concerned about my engines condition when I got it and wanted to see if it was shedding metal, thankfully it wasn't, but the magnetic oil plug was a nice reassurance.
What about the O ring at the Timing Cover that keeps the MilkShake at bay😂
I'm not aware of this o-ring, perhaps it isn't on the om617? I don't think there is a timing cover, the chain runs through the block and head with no access I believe.
What causes the w123 to slow down when climbing?
I would think a lack of power which could be any number of things like clogged filters, worn components, or poor tuning for the engine or transmission.
@@trythistv I will check it out.Thank you very much of course.👍
Great video. Have you made any changes to your routine since posting this?
Not a lot, I've been more observant mostly, looking for any leaks or issues, but my regular maintenance is pretty standard.
Concerning drain plug torque, 40 N-M (29 ft-lb) seems high but not excessive. My book shows that same value. As long as the plug doesn't leak or come lose it's OK. Just don't confuse this with 40 Kg-M (almost 300 ft-lb)
I don't dare break another drain plug! As long as it isn't leaking or coming loose I'm happy!
Is there a copper crush washer gasket on it too?
@@hanseich Yes. And most filters come with both the big rubber o-ring and that copper washer. There's another washer usually included that isn't used on a 123 or 126.
Where can I order the Mann filter and the o rings for the filter stalk?
Here is where I got mine, it does appear the Mann branded filter is currently out of stock, but the Mahle filter is also an excellent quality
➡Oil filter (Mann): amzn.to/3B4FB4G
➡Oil filter (Mahle): amzn.to/3nIX8MW
➡Oil filter stalk o-rings: amzn.to/3HTovKZ
Hey I did an oil change and forgot the little o rings for the oil filter em I screwed
I never changed them until I made this video because it was a eureka moment for me.
You can either pop the lid back off and change them out, or wait until your next oil change.
But in general your videos are great keep it up
I wonder if one should use hi-temp o-rings for this?
Nitrile should be ok, the thermostat for the oil cooler should keep the oil around 200f, and the nitrile o rings are rated safe to 250f, but Viton o rings could be used if there are concerns about temperature: amzn.to/460NwOD
@@trythistv We go through a lot of o-rings at my work, have found that the quality has really nose dived in recent years, for some applications we use the high temp (I thought they were Teflon? but not sure) simply because they hold up better even at lower than the rated temperature. For this application I would imagine simply replacing them every filter change would be adequate.
@@hoggravyandchitlins you know, I've noticed that I'm replacing more and more o rings recently, they don't seem to last like they used to. I bet that's what is going on. I feel like Teflon would be more of a split ring or scarf cut seal it might be called, Teflon is a lot harder. Viton is rated much higher temps, I will keep a close eye on these and if they show signs of deteriorating at my next oil change, I will swap to Viton and see how they last. OEM was supposedly the same EPDM/ buna-n/ nitrile that I used in the video, but if the quality isn't the same then it may be better to upgrade to a tougher material.
What are the measurements of the O-rings?
6mm ID, 10mm OD, 2mm CS:
Oil filter stalk o-rings: amzn.to/3HTovKZ
hi what kind of oil it takes
I always run Rotella T4 15w40, some people prefer the synthetic Rotella T6
boa tarde amigo. voce usaria o da marca Fram ch5412 ???
Olá, eu traduzi isso, espero que seja preciso o suficiente.
O Fram ch5412 é o mesmo arranjo do filtro wix mostrado no vídeo, não possui a mídia do filtro bypass, não possui o benefício da filtragem extra para manter o óleo mais limpo e, por sua vez, fazer o motor durar mais. Eu pessoalmente não usaria no meu carro, tentaria localizar o Mann, Mahle ou outra marca que tenha a mídia bypass. É muito fácil dizer quais são assim. Se todo o filtro parece basicamente o mesmo, não é um filtro bypass, se houver 2 tipos distintos de mídia de filtro, como pode ser visto no filtro Mann no vídeo, então é um filtro bypass e protegerá melhor o seu motor!
English in case that doesn't come through clear:
Hello, I've translated this, hopefully it is accurate enough.
The Fram ch5412 is the same arrangement as the wix filter shown in the video, it does not have the bypass filter media so it does not have that benefit of extra filtration to keep your oil cleaner and in turn make your motor last longer. I personally would not use it in my car, I would try to locate the Mann, Mahle or another brand that has the bypass media. It's pretty easy to tell which ones are that way. If the whole filter looks basically the same it is not a bypass filter, if there is 2 distinct types of filter media as can be seen on the Mann filter in the video then it is a bypass filter and will protect your engine better!
You forgot to remove oil cap while draining the oil
Oh good point, that would let it drain faster. Didn't even think to mention it!
e esta pancada de valvula ???
Não tenho certeza do que você está perguntando, ou talvez o Google não esteja pegando a tradução corretamente?
I'm not sure what you're asking, or perhaps google isn't picking up the translation correctly?
knocking piston skirt or valves
Video spoiler wix was bought ny mann s while ago.
I still believe the bypass media difference is still a thing even with mann-hummell owning wix. I typically love wix filters but not on my om617 engine, the mann branded filters have the bypass media for better filtration. Several other brands also do, but not wix sadly last I checked.
It's not as much about the ownership as it is the design.