I should start TH-cam channel like this....only reason being to be forced to finish my cnc projects :D I admire people like you finding motivation every week !
@@DreitTheDarkDragon It is a pretty big commitment of time. I find it helps me stay focused and not abandon bigger projects, but, makes the progress slower.
@@RotarySMP Exactly, it is hard to understate the time and commitment needed. I noticed that I plan to publish my next video... for about 4 years now. Damn time flies! I've moved to a new home in that time, had a workshop on the second floor for a couple years and am now moving to my brand new custom design (my own design) workshop behind my house. I still plan to make a video, really :P
That sliding tool-holder-holder on the cross slide is very neat, seems like it'd be incredibly useful for avoiding issues with cross slide travel not being enough to get tools where you need them.
"Ill just physically swap the two drivers over" A very rare instance of fixing a software problem in hardware. Sadly the other way round is much more prevalent. Thank you!
Really pleasing to see you finally making chips on the Schaublin after all this time, the trip home to the land of the short scared sheep must have agreed with you Sorry about that, but I'm an Aussie and I couldn't resist 👍
Nice to see the lathe put to use. You know, I can't hear a machinist talk about trepanning without thinking of those articles I read in National Geographic as a kid where the ancient stone age people did trepanning brain surgery. My brothers and I would threaten each other with a trepanning when we got mad.
The part (and video) turned out excellent! I really like how you show the entire process of designing the radius tool, grinding, and machining the finished part. It really helps me learn as a novice hobby machinist. If you're ever in the States I'll happily buy you a beer (or several).
So nice to see the old girl making real parts needed for other hobbies. 👍👍😎👍👍. Even got to see the Clarkson in action. Mark, the angle of the camera really made your fleshy fingers look like they were just a microns away from the spinny jaws when you were anxiously fiddling with the knurling tool (yes, I understand that was an optical illusion). I don’t want to be one of those guys…… But Please, please pause for a moment prior to placing your fingers near robots. Sometimes our mind get too focused on something else we think is urgent when the next line of g-code suddenly comes up and bites us. Not sure if you saw Stan from Bar-Z Industrial this week discuss his mishap with a gear train. Stan is a highly skilled and very thoughtful man like yourself and he still got bit. I wish you only the best 🙂
Hi Joel, Thanks for the sanity check on that. You are right, although that was an F50 feedrate, and I had dry run that program twice, it was not a good idea. Once it turned to custard (the knurl wheel catching on the tip of the work), the big picture was lost there fast. Should have done the knurling as single pointed, multistart, LH and RH coarse threads, which would have been: 1/Safer 2/ Cooler
Haven't watched video yet, but wanted to say about possible strengthening method for 3D prints. Since the part is quite thick (M14 thread), it is possible to design part with 3.5mm hole through everything and then screw in hot M4 all-thread or bolt inside. p.s. Excited to see Shaublin work
Or leave the shaft hollow and slide a bit of plexi or polycarb rod in with a little dab of CA glue to secure it. You could conceivably use fiberglass (or even glass) too. But doing it via CNC lathe is definitely the coolest way to do it!
Good to see you using the Schaublin. Looking forward to a lathe project coming when you have time. That beast appears to have more tools and attachments than I would ever know what to do with.
Thanks Robert. I still have a fair bit of work to do on it before it is finished. The tool changer, the control panel and pendant, and get the name plate clean :)
Really cool project! I bet you're glad to get the CNC lathe going. 😁 With the carbide tool you ground, for softmplastics etc I use a heap of rake. Probably 8 or 10 degrees on a tool like that to get a good chip curl and avoid melting. Your vid shows definite melting and stringing of the chip especially near the end of that cut when the tool is hotter. With 10 degrees of rake the tool wont get hot at all it will curl out nice and dark. A light coloured chip like you got shows either melt or stretch deformation of the chip, so something was not cutting clean and that means it's getting hot. 🤔
@@RotarySMP awesome. When CNCing plastics just run heaps of rake and heaps of side and front clearance angle to avoid any chance of rubbing. Melt will be your biggest problem, tool wear and tool tip strength are pretty much meaningless.
Hi John, I have turned a few parts on the Schaublin in previous videos. It is nice to be using the machine, even if it still needs the control module made to improve the interface.
I recently made a part for 3D printing that has a high torsion load applied to it, out of three seperate parts including a square “key” that goes inside the shaft. The key was printed sideways so the layers aren’t the weak point. There is a screw at each end of the shaft to lock the top part to the key and likewise with the bottom part. Seems to handle the force pretty well this far. If I had a lathe, I definitely would have just turned it.
I considered that, but needed to exercise the lathe, and since it was not my design, I would have had to model from the STL, which I find to be a pain.
Adding a feed hold for knurling once the tool is engaged might be the go. Was puckering a bit watching you there. Looks great though! Jealous that its all working for you now!
Oh great. I just realized you have a playlist for this lathe. How am I supposed to get my shop made CNC mill finished (based on a Fehlmann Switzerland X Y table) while I’m watching all this great content. As a side note I’m a retired EE from GE, the very same group that did the drawings in your Doall band saw. And, I used to work on Nova mini computers. Such a small world.
Hi Jim, Nice to hear from someone who used a Nova. Another Schaublin owner I know framed the core memory module and hung it on the wall :) The Fehlmann stuff is a good basis for your project. Good one.
In the hundreds of threads I’ve turned I don’t think a single one has ever been right the first time. I always back the tool off and creep up to the right pitch diameter. Even if I don’t remove the tool between parts, if the next one is a different thread I’m backing the tool off and creeping up to size again.
This is a real benefit of CNC, as you can creep up on a thread by simply increasing the K value of the G76 , and running the code again. linuxcnc.org/docs/2.6/html/gcode/gcode.html#sec:G76-Threading-Canned
@@RotarySMP I like all the riders so it's always good to see one come out of the doldrums. Franky hasn't shown that kind of form in a while, but wet weather always seems to do strange things to the bike set up, Zarco said in an interview that he was able to do his style in the second half of the race once the tyres were more worn... He was rapid!
@@wmc7870 Yeah, Frankie was hot at the end of the 21 season, but had a nasty injury didn't he. The Yamaha and Honda give the impression of being nearly unridable for some of the best riders ever.
It's strange, I have to agree, but the tolerance from a winning 'best bike ever' to an unrideable machine is less than 1 second a lap or so! That's why I like all the riders, they must all be unbelievable! When the circumstances are right they can all shine, look at jack in portimau!
Yeah, it looked like it should be down with clean knurls too. Like this it cleaned all the chips out of the knurl wheels. I could have cut the knurl as a multistart, course pitch, thread cut both LH and RH.
Did you think to comment the mod in the .ini file for future you? What you did is similar to switch the wires of a 4-20 mA current loop somewhere in a field junction box to get things working. Always looking forward to your next posts.
I didnt comment the INI, as it the behaviour is obvious. What I need to do is compare the wiring with the wiring diagram I drew, as that is probably now reversed. I should update that.
Nice to see the lathe in action Mark. Great job. What work needs to be done to get the turret operational? If you're anything like me, I'd forget what diameter the form tool is and have to measure it before the next time I use it. Maybe comment tool 40 as "Ball Nose Form Tool 6mm"?
Did you see all that snot run out of the turret when I clamped it down? I expect it is all gummed up with the same coolant soup which gummed up the lead screws as well. I plan to strip it down and clean it. After that I still need to connect it's air lines to the Festo pneumatic module, and then just assign pins and some logic. There are some LinuxCNC components for lathe tool changers out there, hopefully one will work with the feedback logic of Schaublins tool changer. Good idea on the commenting the tool better. Although by the time I need it again, I will have needed the 6mm ER25 collet for another job, and will need to reload it and touch it off again.
@@RotarySMP I did notice the shmoo, but don't like to judge. I look forward to the teardown/cleanup and commissioning though. More great content. You could always make more tool holders of course....
@@squelchstuffA mate here in town just pulled down his 125CNC tool changer, so I asked him to take lots of pictures and video. to help me when I get to that point. I am going to need to make more of the normal tool holders as well, but that will be more work. The ER ones should be pretty easy for the Schaublin to make for itself.
Looking good. CNC threading seems looks like a great thing to have as doing it manually can be a real butt clenching exercise. Turning curved or other complex profiles is also fab. I'm loving the Schaublin. - Heather PS: Regarding 3D printed parts, I discovered quite a while ago that they are porous because I had made a cutting oil pot and all the oil just leaked out over a few weeks. However, this can be an advantage because the strength of a freshly printed part can be massively improved by dribbling very thin CA glue all over it. The glue gets right into the gaps between the filament layers and bonds everything together. You may need an accelerator to set the glue off if you're in a hurry.
Hi Heather. Yeah, I set that to thread up to 0.1mm of the shoulder at about 600 rpm. That would only work manually with a lathe that has a reliable auto kick out mechanism, and an undercut. That porosity of spaghetti printers is a nightmare for my Beatles castings. The next one has a few layers of sellac to seal it.
Where the knurling is, could you cut that to be a hex shaft, then use a T-handle that slips over it to spin the reel? Seems like it takes a lot of finger twisting effort to agitate the reel.
It was printed in PET-G by a mate who is really good at 3D printing. It might be a bit stronger with more infill and perimeters, but it will always be under a lot of stress.
Can you kindly explain about doing that thread again after checking the size? Does linuxcnc keep the spindle orientation after you've finished the threading cycle? Or did you realign the thread manually?
LinuxCNC is feed with the spindle encoder, so it knows the exact orientation all the time. I was using the G76 multi pass threading cycle, so all I needed to do was to amend the K value, to increase it, and run the code again. This is where a CNC really shines, you can thread right up to a shoulder (I think I left 0.1mm), and at a high enough spindle speed to get goot surface finish. linuxcnc.org/docs/2.6/html/gcode/gcode.html#sec:G76-Threading-Canned
@@RotarySMP Thank you very much for the reply. I still have a little question. You ran the threading cycle again after checking with the nut right. So when after the threading cycle is finished it usually stops the spindle synchronization right? When you start another threading cycle, the start point will be different right? I have linuxcnc running with my okuma mill and I think this is same as doing rigid tapping. If i go again thread start point is different resulting in mangled threads. I believe you can understand where the confusion is. I've no experience with linuxcnc on a lathe.
@@harindugamlath LinuxCNC uses the index pulse of your spindle encoder to synchronize motion. So if you have an encoder that has more than one index pulse per spindle rotation you can get synchronization on any one of the index pulses. For instance, if you're using the spindle drive motor's encoder and the spindle is coupled to the motor at anything other than 1:1, you will get unpredictable results.
When you run spindle backwards it also just coasts to stop, meanwhile when you run it forward, it brakes by inverter. Almost sounds like you somehow use direction input to change this setting? But I can't remember now if you drive it by digital inputs or by some bus communication. In one case it might be misconfigured input, but I never heard you could switch braking this way. Other was might be LinuxCNC rewriting value in wrong register?
Hi Micheal. That was a video editing experience. I fast forwarded it coasting to a stop the first time, cause it took so long. In both cases it coasted down. I did a wiring diagram of how I connected the VFD. It is discrete wiring. I think there is an on/off signal, and a wd/rev signal. I am assuming that I have an open circuit on the drive reverse line. I used a CAT 6 cable for that line, and the wires are pretty tiny. Maybe I pulled on it too hard at some point. There is a mechanical brake on the motor, so I didn't put a braking resister on the VFD, but let it coast to a stop. I need to connect up the brake at some point.
@@RotarySMP Hi! That explains a lot. But it sounds so real, really like braking by VFD in first case, I really couldn't say it was sped up. Might be broken wire, some pull-up/down resistor settings (forcing default state to opposite than you need) or something in VFD configuration. I think I also saw some driver in past which needed DIR set sooner than RUN and didn't cared about any change of DIR while it was already running. Meanwhile with some ancient VFD I can switch DIR any time I want and it changes direction instantly. Good luck with finding where the problem is! Also try to measure voltage on mesa card outputs when VFD is ready to accept orders, it might be pulling some signal to wrong state. At work we have on bigger drill and that mechanical brake fascinates me. You'd say it's quite a big piece of metal....CLUNK! and it stops immediately. I'm wondering how that would work with lathe, if inertia won't break parts in chuck when you brake it quickly. Also I think you can set VFD output to control brake, so it won't engage when VFD is forcing motor to move in some direction. You can then even set some slow ramp down to almost zero and then it will automatically engage.
@@DreitTheDarkDragon Good ideas. This is a pretty nice VFD, but and I think it has a output which could be used to control the brake. Need to look that up.
@@RotarySMP Hope it helps. I know most of VFDs have at least one relay output and there's usually configuration which holds relay when VFD is "running" - which is in some cases separated in more configuration options.
I got the motors and drivers from JMC, and the connectors and cables were included. I am sure all those connectors will be standard, but it might take a bit of searching in the RS Online catalog to find them.
Thanks Wendell. Those guys a re nuts, and lack the self preservation instinct. This season may well be last man standing. Awesome start by Binder in the sprint race, and great ride by Bez in the main one this weekend. Great how many competitive riders and bikes there are.
Yeah, I get that. This is not a million dollar shop, it is my basement, and I bought the mill and lathe with dead controllers for a couple thousand each, and converted them to LinuxCNC, but then use them to make valueless parts :)
@@RotarySMP Nah, that was the first common meme analogy that fell on my mind, though, there is a "credit card - priceless - tv add" analogy somewhere in there but it escapes me at the moment :)
Go easy on the agitation for the developer... Basically as little as you can get away with. There are countless stories going around by the old masters who dealt with film for some of the best photographers and the one thing that often gets mentioned is "gentle agitation". Unless you wanna overcook the neg, of course. Then go nuts with agitation:).
Fomaoan R100 is a B&W slide film, and it has a chemical bleach bath which needs constant agitation. The developer is a typical agitation of a few seconds per minute.
@@RotarySMP ah, it's positive, gotcha:). My point was from getting into documentary photography at the tail end of film use and having to learn to develop and print myself. And it turns out agitation means different things to different people. Some people swoosh the chemicals around, let's say they agitate more or perhaps even aggressively. But without name dropping I heard that one of the best photographers of the past 30 years insisted his tank was gently rolled, never swooshed. And that it was always developed at the colder end of the range, if I recall correctly. He tended to push a lot of his rolls, too and felt these two things kept contrast and perhaps even grain at bay. Later on, I found others did the same. Anyhow, I am not surprised you know your stuff on this subject, too and it's amazing to hear you're into 16mm:)
@@AntiVaganza I have been standdeveloping 35 in Caffenol lately. Really nice results with a 70min dev. The bummer about 16mm is there are so few film types. OWRO should have UN54, but they seem to have stopped making it. Kodak double-X is really expensive, or Fomo R100 has the finicky bleach reversal process.
@@iTeerRex Good point, and having the manufacturer support, so all the machines talk to each other. Still, I once visited a car engine factory, and they are super complicated set up of CNC, Robots, and a lot of transport hardware. Interesting that Musks desire to make the Tesla 3 factory fully automated failed. You need humans in the mix more than expected.
You deserve more subscribers! Your videos are up to par with the best. Keep 'm coming, Mark!
Thanks Willem. I appreciate the feedback. Please spread the word :)
I should start TH-cam channel like this....only reason being to be forced to finish my cnc projects :D
I admire people like you finding motivation every week !
Thanks lot Maros. It helps me with that motivation.
I had similar idea, first finish shed and then I can start....maybe
@@DreitTheDarkDragon It is a pretty big commitment of time. I find it helps me stay focused and not abandon bigger projects, but, makes the progress slower.
Don't worry, everything takes 5 times as much time when you make video's about the projects so you should be set for the foreseeable future!
@@RotarySMP Exactly, it is hard to understate the time and commitment needed. I noticed that I plan to publish my next video... for about 4 years now. Damn time flies! I've moved to a new home in that time, had a workshop on the second floor for a couple years and am now moving to my brand new custom design (my own design) workshop behind my house. I still plan to make a video, really :P
That sliding tool-holder-holder on the cross slide is very neat, seems like it'd be incredibly useful for avoiding issues with cross slide travel not being enough to get tools where you need them.
Hi Ed,
Yeah, that use of a dovetail on the side of the dross slide is something Schaublin did a lot. Seems really convenient.
"Ill just physically swap the two drivers over"
A very rare instance of fixing a software problem in hardware. Sadly the other way round is much more prevalent.
Thank you!
Thanks for the positive feedback on this :)
Really pleasing to see you finally making chips on the Schaublin after all this time, the trip home to the land of the short scared sheep must have agreed with you Sorry about that, but I'm an Aussie and I couldn't resist 👍
Yeah, it is not done yet though. Will be a lot nicer to use once I have the control module and the jog wheels done. We have jokes too you know :)
@@RotarySMP 😂
@@RotarySMP My former business partner in Oz was a Christchurch native
@@MyMiniHomeWorkshop Oh, a "mainlander", we have jokes about them as well :)
@@RotarySMP
Nice to see the lathe put to use. You know, I can't hear a machinist talk about trepanning without thinking of those articles I read in National Geographic as a kid where the ancient stone age people did trepanning brain surgery. My brothers and I would threaten each other with a trepanning when we got mad.
Hi Marion, I bet you drove your Mum to distraction :)
That came out nice. And your tool gringter seems to be a very nice toy.
It is! Takes ages to get it set up, but can do nearly anything.
The part (and video) turned out excellent! I really like how you show the entire process of designing the radius tool, grinding, and machining the finished part. It really helps me learn as a novice hobby machinist. If you're ever in the States I'll happily buy you a beer (or several).
Thanks for your feedback and kind offer :)
Congratulations!
Finally it is coming together beautifully.
Well done! 😂
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice! You can cut the knurl with a steep multi-start thread too, at least in principle.
True. Would have been a better result in this case :(
According to Stefan, dust extraction a must when doing carbide, very nasty dust..
Yeah, I normally hook up my vaccuum. Should have this time. The metallic binders can be carcinogens.
Nice sunday morning with coffee and cnc content ☕😌
Glad to supply half of your drugs :)
@@RotarySMP well im hooked for sure :D
@@fieur Thanks for engaging. It helps.
Cnc machines are new to me and although I don't completely understand how they work I am glad I can witness your intelligence
Thank you for the kind words.
So nice to see the old girl making real parts needed for other hobbies. 👍👍😎👍👍. Even got to see the Clarkson in action.
Mark, the angle of the camera really made your fleshy fingers look like they were just a microns away from the spinny jaws when you were anxiously fiddling with the knurling tool (yes, I understand that was an optical illusion). I don’t want to be one of those guys…… But Please, please pause for a moment prior to placing your fingers near robots. Sometimes our mind get too focused on something else we think is urgent when the next line of g-code suddenly comes up and bites us. Not sure if you saw Stan from Bar-Z Industrial this week discuss his mishap with a gear train. Stan is a highly skilled and very thoughtful man like yourself and he still got bit. I wish you only the best 🙂
Hi Joel,
Thanks for the sanity check on that. You are right, although that was an F50 feedrate, and I had dry run that program twice, it was not a good idea. Once it turned to custard (the knurl wheel catching on the tip of the work), the big picture was lost there fast.
Should have done the knurling as single pointed, multistart, LH and RH coarse threads, which would have been:
1/Safer
2/ Cooler
Fruition at last, felt your pain on the knurling op 😢.
Yes, MotoGP sprint was more like skittles, by a certain bowling ball rider.
Thanks for sharing
At least knurling the the plastic cleaned all of the swarf out of my knurlig tool :)
Plastic is always a nice way to start making chips. I always enjoyed plastic & also phenolic.
It is pretty stringy though. Luckily this didn't birdsnest on the the initial deeper cuts.
Haven't watched video yet, but wanted to say about possible strengthening method for 3D prints. Since the part is quite thick (M14 thread), it is possible to design part with 3.5mm hole through everything and then screw in hot M4 all-thread or bolt inside.
p.s. Excited to see Shaublin work
Thanks Phil. Since this is in photo chemistry, I didn't really want metal there, although stainless is probably okay.
Or leave the shaft hollow and slide a bit of plexi or polycarb rod in with a little dab of CA glue to secure it. You could conceivably use fiberglass (or even glass) too. But doing it via CNC lathe is definitely the coolest way to do it!
@@davidedwards9157 Thanks David.
Good to see it getting put through its paces. 😀
Thanks. It would have been faster to do most of this on the Boley, but if I dont use it, I will never get good at it.
Good to see you using the Schaublin. Looking forward to a lathe project coming when you have time. That beast appears to have more tools and attachments than I would ever know what to do with.
Thanks Robert. I still have a fair bit of work to do on it before it is finished. The tool changer, the control panel and pendant, and get the name plate clean :)
Really cool project! I bet you're glad to get the CNC lathe going. 😁
With the carbide tool you ground, for softmplastics etc I use a heap of rake. Probably 8 or 10 degrees on a tool like that to get a good chip curl and avoid melting.
Your vid shows definite melting and stringing of the chip especially near the end of that cut when the tool is hotter. With 10 degrees of rake the tool wont get hot at all it will curl out nice and dark. A light coloured chip like you got shows either melt or stretch deformation of the chip, so something was not cutting clean and that means it's getting hot. 🤔
Thanks for the feedback on that tool grind.Next time I need one for plastic I'll give it decent rake.
@@RotarySMP awesome. When CNCing plastics just run heaps of rake and heaps of side and front clearance angle to avoid any chance of rubbing. Melt will be your biggest problem, tool wear and tool tip strength are pretty much meaningless.
@@wizrom3046 Thanks. That makes sense. I just had issues with it grabbing and pulling out the part in the Boley, but that was bad clamping.
Exciting to see the first part turned!
Hi John, I have turned a few parts on the Schaublin in previous videos. It is nice to be using the machine, even if it still needs the control module made to improve the interface.
IT'S ALIVE, ALIVE, LOL! I wish I could thread that quickly. Great work.....
Hi Jasper, it is a real benefit of CNC. I threaded to 0.1mm of the shoulder at 600rpm :)
@@RotarySMP WOW!!
@@jster1963 Bit of a pucker factor when you first do it. :)
@@RotarySMP I bet!
Nice to see it go again
Thanks for the feedback Samuel. It helps.
I recently made a part for 3D printing that has a high torsion load applied to it, out of three seperate parts including a square “key” that goes inside the shaft. The key was printed sideways so the layers aren’t the weak point. There is a screw at each end of the shaft to lock the top part to the key and likewise with the bottom part. Seems to handle the force pretty well this far.
If I had a lathe, I definitely would have just turned it.
I considered that, but needed to exercise the lathe, and since it was not my design, I would have had to model from the STL, which I find to be a pain.
@@RotarySMP that’s basically my day job. Happy to help if you ever need.
@@The.Talent Thanks for the offer.
Fantastic work on the Schaublin, long time coming, but what a success! Congrats
Thanks, Still need to make the control panel, and do a fair bit of config work to do. Then comes that tool changer.
Adding a feed hold for knurling once the tool is engaged might be the go. Was puckering a bit watching you there. Looks great though! Jealous that its all working for you now!
Thanks James. I didn't think that through. If I had approached the work wiht the nurl in X it also would not have happened.
good video RotarySMP
Thanks for the double support this week :)
your new printed part does look much better!
:)
But you need quite thick filament to feed Schaublin!
Great to see the schaublin running
Thanks Werner. I still need to design and build the control module, and pendant, but it is nice to use such a nice machine.
Oh great. I just realized you have a playlist for this lathe. How am I supposed to get my shop made CNC mill finished (based on a Fehlmann Switzerland X Y table) while I’m watching all this great content. As a side note I’m a retired EE from GE, the very same group that did the drawings in your Doall band saw. And, I used to work on Nova mini computers. Such a small world.
Hi Jim,
Nice to hear from someone who used a Nova. Another Schaublin owner I know framed the core memory module and hung it on the wall :)
The Fehlmann stuff is a good basis for your project. Good one.
It's alive!
Thanks Pete, I have used it a few times in recent videos.
Happy easter and well done
Thanks for watching. Happy Easter to you as well.
In the hundreds of threads I’ve turned I don’t think a single one has ever been right the first time. I always back the tool off and creep up to the right pitch diameter.
Even if I don’t remove the tool between parts, if the next one is a different thread I’m backing the tool off and creeping up to size again.
This is a real benefit of CNC, as you can creep up on a thread by simply increasing the K value of the G76 , and running the code again.
linuxcnc.org/docs/2.6/html/gcode/gcode.html#sec:G76-Threading-Canned
Machine tools and Moto GP. Cool hobbies😊
Interesting to see Morbidelli having an easier time with the Yamaha than Quartararo this weekend.
@@RotarySMP
I like all the riders so it's always good to see one come out of the doldrums. Franky hasn't shown that kind of form in a while, but wet weather always seems to do strange things to the bike set up, Zarco said in an interview that he was able to do his style in the second half of the race once the tyres were more worn... He was rapid!
@@wmc7870 Yeah, Frankie was hot at the end of the 21 season, but had a nasty injury didn't he. The Yamaha and Honda give the impression of being nearly unridable for some of the best riders ever.
It's strange, I have to agree, but the tolerance from a winning 'best bike ever' to an unrideable machine is less than 1 second a lap or so! That's why I like all the riders, they must all be unbelievable! When the circumstances are right they can all shine, look at jack in portimau!
@@wmc7870 Absolutely agree. Much more interesting than the F1, as whoever is best on race day wins :)
Awesome CNC'ing! If you can cut threads, shouldn't knurls be doable as well?
Yeah, multi start coarse threads, LH and RH would handle the knurling.
I've never seen knurling done to plastic. I'll have to look around and see if that's actually done any way but molding.
Yeah, it looked like it should be down with clean knurls too. Like this it cleaned all the chips out of the knurl wheels. I could have cut the knurl as a multistart, course pitch, thread cut both LH and RH.
It made a thing! (But how is the name plate looking?)
I have been neglecting the nameplate :)
Did you think to comment the mod in the .ini file for future you?
What you did is similar to switch the wires of a 4-20 mA current loop somewhere in a field junction box to get things working.
Always looking forward to your next posts.
I didnt comment the INI, as it the behaviour is obvious. What I need to do is compare the wiring with the wiring diagram I drew, as that is probably now reversed. I should update that.
Nice to see the lathe in action Mark. Great job. What work needs to be done to get the turret operational?
If you're anything like me, I'd forget what diameter the form tool is and have to measure it before the next time I use it. Maybe comment tool 40 as "Ball Nose Form Tool 6mm"?
Did you see all that snot run out of the turret when I clamped it down? I expect it is all gummed up with the same coolant soup which gummed up the lead screws as well. I plan to strip it down and clean it. After that I still need to connect it's air lines to the Festo pneumatic module, and then just assign pins and some logic. There are some LinuxCNC components for lathe tool changers out there, hopefully one will work with the feedback logic of Schaublins tool changer.
Good idea on the commenting the tool better. Although by the time I need it again, I will have needed the 6mm ER25 collet for another job, and will need to reload it and touch it off again.
@@RotarySMP I did notice the shmoo, but don't like to judge. I look forward to the teardown/cleanup and commissioning though. More great content. You could always make more tool holders of course....
@@squelchstuffA mate here in town just pulled down his 125CNC tool changer, so I asked him to take lots of pictures and video. to help me when I get to that point.
I am going to need to make more of the normal tool holders as well, but that will be more work. The ER ones should be pretty easy for the Schaublin to make for itself.
How about adding a m3 threaded rod to your 3d printed part as middle support? Or a small aluminum tube?
That could have worked, but now I have a the turned part, I dont need to.
Edified… oops - wrong place for my comment😜
Looking good. CNC threading seems looks like a great thing to have as doing it manually can be a real butt clenching exercise. Turning curved or other complex profiles is also fab. I'm loving the Schaublin. - Heather
PS: Regarding 3D printed parts, I discovered quite a while ago that they are porous because I had made a cutting oil pot and all the oil just leaked out over a few weeks. However, this can be an advantage because the strength of a freshly printed part can be massively improved by dribbling very thin CA glue all over it. The glue gets right into the gaps between the filament layers and bonds everything together. You may need an accelerator to set the glue off if you're in a hurry.
Hi Heather. Yeah, I set that to thread up to 0.1mm of the shoulder at about 600 rpm. That would only work manually with a lathe that has a reliable auto kick out mechanism, and an undercut.
That porosity of spaghetti printers is a nightmare for my Beatles castings. The next one has a few layers of sellac to seal it.
nice job great video thank you for sharing
Thanks for the visit
Muito bom !
Thanks for the comment.
Awsome!
Thanks.
Where the knurling is, could you cut that to be a hex shaft, then use a T-handle that slips over it to spin the reel? Seems like it takes a lot of finger twisting effort to agitate the reel.
That is a good idea. Most of the chemicals only need intermittant agitation, but bleach bath for R100 needs continuous.
It's cutting chips. Yay! :D
It is nice to use it. I look forward to making the control panel and pendant to make the user interface more inituitive.
The 3d printed part would likely not have failed had it had more perimeters and denser infill. But the CNC version is probably more fun to make
It was printed in PET-G by a mate who is really good at 3D printing. It might be a bit stronger with more infill and perimeters, but it will always be under a lot of stress.
Can you kindly explain about doing that thread again after checking the size? Does linuxcnc keep the spindle orientation after you've finished the threading cycle? Or did you realign the thread manually?
LinuxCNC is feed with the spindle encoder, so it knows the exact orientation all the time. I was using the G76 multi pass threading cycle, so all I needed to do was to amend the K value, to increase it, and run the code again. This is where a CNC really shines, you can thread right up to a shoulder (I think I left 0.1mm), and at a high enough spindle speed to get goot surface finish.
linuxcnc.org/docs/2.6/html/gcode/gcode.html#sec:G76-Threading-Canned
@@RotarySMP Thank you very much for the reply. I still have a little question. You ran the threading cycle again after checking with the nut right. So when after the threading cycle is finished it usually stops the spindle synchronization right? When you start another threading cycle, the start point will be different right? I have linuxcnc running with my okuma mill and I think this is same as doing rigid tapping. If i go again thread start point is different resulting in mangled threads. I believe you can understand where the confusion is. I've no experience with linuxcnc on a lathe.
@@harindugamlath LinuxCNC uses the index pulse of your spindle encoder to synchronize motion. So if you have an encoder that has more than one index pulse per spindle rotation you can get synchronization on any one of the index pulses. For instance, if you're using the spindle drive motor's encoder and the spindle is coupled to the motor at anything other than 1:1, you will get unpredictable results.
When you run spindle backwards it also just coasts to stop, meanwhile when you run it forward, it brakes by inverter. Almost sounds like you somehow use direction input to change this setting? But I can't remember now if you drive it by digital inputs or by some bus communication. In one case it might be misconfigured input, but I never heard you could switch braking this way. Other was might be LinuxCNC rewriting value in wrong register?
Hi Micheal. That was a video editing experience. I fast forwarded it coasting to a stop the first time, cause it took so long. In both cases it coasted down. I did a wiring diagram of how I connected the VFD. It is discrete wiring. I think there is an on/off signal, and a wd/rev signal. I am assuming that I have an open circuit on the drive reverse line. I used a CAT 6 cable for that line, and the wires are pretty tiny. Maybe I pulled on it too hard at some point.
There is a mechanical brake on the motor, so I didn't put a braking resister on the VFD, but let it coast to a stop. I need to connect up the brake at some point.
@@RotarySMP Hi! That explains a lot. But it sounds so real, really like braking by VFD in first case, I really couldn't say it was sped up.
Might be broken wire, some pull-up/down resistor settings (forcing default state to opposite than you need) or something in VFD configuration. I think I also saw some driver in past which needed DIR set sooner than RUN and didn't cared about any change of DIR while it was already running. Meanwhile with some ancient VFD I can switch DIR any time I want and it changes direction instantly. Good luck with finding where the problem is! Also try to measure voltage on mesa card outputs when VFD is ready to accept orders, it might be pulling some signal to wrong state.
At work we have on bigger drill and that mechanical brake fascinates me. You'd say it's quite a big piece of metal....CLUNK! and it stops immediately. I'm wondering how that would work with lathe, if inertia won't break parts in chuck when you brake it quickly. Also I think you can set VFD output to control brake, so it won't engage when VFD is forcing motor to move in some direction. You can then even set some slow ramp down to almost zero and then it will automatically engage.
@@DreitTheDarkDragon Good ideas. This is a pretty nice VFD, but and I think it has a output which could be used to control the brake. Need to look that up.
@@RotarySMP Hope it helps. I know most of VFDs have at least one relay output and there's usually configuration which holds relay when VFD is "running" - which is in some cases separated in more configuration options.
@@DreitTheDarkDragon I was thinking of using a LinuxCNC signal to control the brake, but that is simpler and probably more reliable.Thanks.
3d printed with a steel center shaft and cross pins may have worked in a pinch, but this is better
Good point. There are lots of options
Hmm does anyone know where I can get the connectors for Leadshine EL8 it seems like they only sell the cable without connector which sucks..
I got the motors and drivers from JMC, and the connectors and cables were included. I am sure all those connectors will be standard, but it might take a bit of searching in the RS Online catalog to find them.
👍
Thanks Mark
Instead of the knurling, maybe go with a hex or square so you can use a handle you can remove.
Good suggestion Lloyd. Thanks.
I agree on the motogp thing...
Thanks Wendell. Those guys a re nuts, and lack the self preservation instinct. This season may well be last man standing.
Awesome start by Binder in the sprint race, and great ride by Bez in the main one this weekend. Great how many competitive riders and bikes there are.
@@RotarySMPthe series was better without you know who then his return proves me right...
@@wendellg1 I liked the way Marcez could "uncrash" a bike.
making things work by deleting a negative scaling feels like a bugfix :)
Good point :)
Machines can finally do something😄
Yeah, takes me ages to get to this point.
@@RotarySMP I can understand because I'm a loyal viewer
@@junchang132 It will be more convenient to use, once I have the control panel designed built and integrated. Still, it is nice to use it.
I bet you are so chuffed to actually use the schaublin to make something. It justifies all your hard work.😊
Thanks Chris. It is not the first time I have turned a part on the Schaublin, but every step forward feels good.
The knurl didn’t work because the nameplate still had some gunk on it. 😊
I suspected the same thing. Sorry I missed that.
is a pain when you miss place a cable
It was a pretty ratty RS232-->µUSB with only 3 wires. I wonder if it got swept up with rubbish?
@@RotarySMP is very good theory
@@MakarovFox Would be finny if I dumped it while cleaning up looking for it. :/
@@RotarySMP yes some time it happens
Every TH-cam video: How to build a $15 part for free. Step 1. fire up your $1m dollar machine shop...
Yeah, I get that. This is not a million dollar shop, it is my basement, and I bought the mill and lathe with dead controllers for a couple thousand each, and converted them to LinuxCNC, but then use them to make valueless parts :)
@@RotarySMP Nah, that was the first common meme analogy that fell on my mind, though, there is a "credit card - priceless - tv add" analogy somewhere in there but it escapes me at the moment :)
@@NskLabs It is pretty absurd what I am doing here, but I enjoy it :)
@@RotarySMP Quality of life is not absurd. I dream about my own man-cave myself.
Go easy on the agitation for the developer... Basically as little as you can get away with. There are countless stories going around by the old masters who dealt with film for some of the best photographers and the one thing that often gets mentioned is "gentle agitation". Unless you wanna overcook the neg, of course. Then go nuts with agitation:).
Fomaoan R100 is a B&W slide film, and it has a chemical bleach bath which needs constant agitation. The developer is a typical agitation of a few seconds per minute.
@@RotarySMP ah, it's positive, gotcha:).
My point was from getting into documentary photography at the tail end of film use and having to learn to develop and print myself. And it turns out agitation means different things to different people. Some people swoosh the chemicals around, let's say they agitate more or perhaps even aggressively. But without name dropping I heard that one of the best photographers of the past 30 years insisted his tank was gently rolled, never swooshed. And that it was always developed at the colder end of the range, if I recall correctly. He tended to push a lot of his rolls, too and felt these two things kept contrast and perhaps even grain at bay.
Later on, I found others did the same.
Anyhow, I am not surprised you know your stuff on this subject, too and it's amazing to hear you're into 16mm:)
@@AntiVaganza I have been standdeveloping 35 in Caffenol lately. Really nice results with a 70min dev.
The bummer about 16mm is there are so few film types. OWRO should have UN54, but they seem to have stopped making it. Kodak double-X is really expensive, or Fomo R100 has the finicky bleach reversal process.
I'm pretty sure you borrowed hands from TOT and you are actually made from rocks.
His had stronger, as he can chop steel with them :)
Hang on, you swapped the drives because you had swapped the cables, and then you swapped the labels. I think that's one swap too many.
Hi Andy,
I swapped the labels when I swapped the cables, then swapped the labels back when I swapped the drives.
I need to install your Macros.
Dude is that a South African "bier"?
Austrian. Loser (pronouned lowser) is a mountain in the Salzkammergut :)
That machine is so quiet.
It sounds like that to me as well, as I have ear defenders on. I pull down the ambient audio track when editing :)
@RotarySMP even with filtering you can tell it is just a low noise machine. Probably because it is fully belt ran.
@@Oberkaptain That big tooth belt is pretty loud at speed, but otherwise everything is very smooth.
Elon Musk said: “Making the car was the easy part. Making the factory to make the car was 100 times harder.” 😂
Yeah, considering my issues with a single machine, I am in awe of those who can design a whole factory.
Well starting with new equipment should help a lot lol
@@iTeerRex Good point, and having the manufacturer support, so all the machines talk to each other. Still, I once visited a car engine factory, and they are super complicated set up of CNC, Robots, and a lot of transport hardware.
Interesting that Musks desire to make the Tesla 3 factory fully automated failed. You need humans in the mix more than expected.
Right! 😂 seems like most of the work is making the thing (or setting up the thing) so you can make the thing
@@arimadx This is the downside of home CNC: I only need one part, when you need a couple of runs to get the tool path dialed in.
Are carbide dust particles good to inhale ....?
No, That is why I was wearing cartridge particle mask. You can hear it rub against the mic on some audio,