By design, force is applied ONLY to ONE cup, NOT TWO as with a typical ball joint press (c-frame). Tiger uses approx.HALF the force a BJP would take to do the same U joint. For those seized-up stinkers it appliest approx.TWICE as much force as the BJP at a given scrw pressure. If it looked too easy it's because it was TWICE as easy using TIGER TOOL. I took time to say this because they are GREAT to deal with... I got AWESOME customer sevice recently thamks to KEVIN. I don't forget that. JP-USA
You clearly were trying too hard!! He only used a silver 3/8 ratchet. By the way…….he did it in 6 minutes, how long did your big hammer take? Time is money in a shop, and having done hundreds of u-joints I would buy this tool again if mine broke
Bought the 10105 a while back. Used it today to press out my ‘01 Dodge 2500 front axle u-joints. This thing made it extremely easy! Used a 1/2’ Cordless impact. Just used my balljoint press to reinstall. Well worth the money imho.
I wished my Toyota u joints bearing caps came out this easy. Not only I used the Tiger Tool to push out the caps, I had to pound them out with a brass punch and 2 lb sledge hammer.
I have one of these. If the u-joints are very rusted you will have to use a combination of hammer and socket technique, and this tool. This tool does not push universal joints out well when they are very rusted.
It sounds like you’re not using the tool properly because I went and got an old rusty driveshaft from the junkyard and I was able to press the caps out
@@colinkennedy908 yeah I could have been doing something incorrectly haha honestly I don't remember now that was like 5 years ago. Those new joints that I have installed on the day that I left my original comment 5 years ago are still good to this very day!!
Was your car cheap? If you can't afford to maintain your vehicle. Might I suggest public transportation or a bicycle or old fashioned walking. Proper tools that are of sufficient quality to repair vehicles without breaking are as you put it "is the damn PRICE!". You must think the people who work on cars should do it for free. I mean it's so easy a quadriplegic mud puddle can do it. You have no skills because you have no idea that tools of any craft cost money. You are the burger flipper demanding $15/hr and being replaced by a self order kiosk.
Don't worry, harbor freight will no doubt have a clone pretty soon for 40 bux for the pair, those could be produced somewhere in Asia for five bux each.
Especially with that cast crystallized recycled monkey metal they use. I thought, "WOW< these Harbor Freight deep clamps are awesome for $12. They are okay to repair a guitar, but anything where you need some force the frame breaks apart rather violently.
the u joints I just removed required a 4 ton press...came out with a bang each time. I think I'd have broken a tool like this trying! one time the joint broke through the bearing cap cause it was stuck so badly! If I thought this tool would work on rusty 15 year old salt soaked rusty trucks, I'd buy one today!
At 3:29 all I was doing was pushing the bearing caps in tight enough so they wouldn't fall out while I got the C-frame in to place. The cross of the u-joint slid in freely. I have however done what you suggested years ago on my Jeep... I had to change the joints out 3 weeks later!
Now lets see you do that on real world u-joints ... you know the ones that have been installed for 20 years. Those came out way to easy, and it didn't look like it was because of the tool. Seriously though, why not just use a ball-joint puller.
We have been manufacturing this tool for over 25 years and I can only recall a few instances (we have been made aware of) where the driveline was so seized our tool wouldn’t work. In most cases we find it’s more important how the force is applied verses how much force is applied to complete this type of job correctly.
My 95 f250 has an internal c clip for the front passenger joint so this tool will save me hours of work since you cant fit a press there. Very excited to get this
Just did the u-joints on my 2000 F-150 and there's NO WAY this tool would have worked to remove the old ones. Since I didn't have a vice it took me and a friend to hold down the driveshaft and use the ball-joint/u-joint press to press the joints out and the new ones in.
this thing is $385.00! I don't know who buys this thing. if you have a shop and are trying to run a business you can't spend $400 for this thing. the savings in time vs. doing it the old way will not off set the cost. profit margins are too tight for extravagances like this. BUT I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE ONE!
I like how he stops installing the second cup because he probably jammed the bearings lol. you can see the cup sticking out when installing the yoke. too expensive! ball joint press and a hammer is the way to go
Its only 99 on amazon now,if you have ever been the ears of a drive shaft u can appreciate this tools value.... Dont ask me how i know,plus it speeds the whole process up pays for itself after 2 or three u joint jobs
can't tell you the number of times doing it this way has caused one of the needle bearings to "fall down" and get "squished" during the press-in. (and yes, the bearings were greased before hand just to keep them from "falling down"). Found it much safer to push one cup well past the circlip hold to be si\ure the opposing cup with its needle bearings would NOT fall down.
Looked to me like that might be what happened in this video. The second cup looked like it never fully seated and never showed putting that clip in on video, and at the end you could see that cup sitting a little too proud of the ear on the yoke.
A BALL JOINT REMOVAL TOOL WORKS ON REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION I OWN ONE ,IF YOU DONT OWN ONE AUTOZONE RENTALS ARE FREE JUST LEAVE A DEPOSIT, BTW CLEAN AND LUBRICATE ALL MATING SURFACES TO MAKE THE JOB EASIER.
@@leehotspur9679 Howard, look this issue up on the Spicer website. Cheers. "Caution - Spicer DOES NOT recommend wiping the outside of bearing cup assemblies or yoke cross holes with grease, oil or silicone-based sprays. This could result in bearing cup assembly rotation in yokes. "
When you use the C-clamp to put the little retainer back in place, how does only one side is pushed inside, and not both since both jaws of the clamp are sitting on the U-joint outsides?
Seems like a great tool for a shop where you miiiiight encounter that 1 in however many cars where a hammer/socket wont work.. buuut for the rest of us? Ill stick to a hammer/socket. Awesome idea though, just with the price was a bit easier on the wallet.
@ 3;29 it is possible that he didn't make sure the u-joint was inserted far enough into the cap and a needle bearing may have fallen out of place. That will not allow the cap to go into it's proper position and could destroy the u-joint if not done properly. May be why it appeared to be hung up.
If the driveshaft is bigger than that tool it won't work, a ball joint tool is just as good and does another job too. Replace ball joints as well. Great marketing
You all prolly dont care at all but does any of you know a way to log back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Jamie Titus Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@TsmnnDvl5 Hi TsmnndvI5, We have manufactured these tools for over 20 years and have yet to here of a case where this has happened. Generally speaking the yoke ears are stronger than the cast portion of the glove that pulls against the yoke.
I BET HOME BOY HAS BEARINGS LAYING DOWN INSIDE THE CUPS . THOSE CUPS WEREN'T INSTALLED ALL THE WAY. OTC BALL JOINT PRESS 120 BUCKS WITH AIR TOOLS PREFERABLY.
A big vice can become a boat anchor due to overloading. The typical Acme thread pitch is not capable of properly (w/out cheater pipe) creating the force required for many stubborn cases. Some huge vices have relatively WEAK captive nuts. Vice method w/sockets (like ball-joint press method) is trying to move both cups instead of 1 cup the Tiger Tool way. So again the Tiger requires approx. half the force the vice needs to do the same u-joint. Tiger goes under vehicle too-saves time . JP-USA
I like it but I find the use of 2 separate tools to be excessive. Both removal and replacement can be achieved by using a balljoint press which is similar to the install tool shown. Great demonstration though.
Cool video but expensive.. Id rather take a 5 lbs sledge and smack the ears with the shafts on a angle and in two or three good whacks the cap will pop off.
This type tool eliminates the risk of spreading the ears on a yoke because instead of pushing them apart like we used to pounding them out with a BFH or using a ball joint press you instead are only pushing on the sides of the opposing yoke's ears (or the u-joint trunnion after you have one side out) where there is no risk of spreading them and pulling on just one ear while pushing the trunnion. There is no risk of spreading the ears on the yoke when there are no forces applied in opposite directions to both ears like the old-school methods would often do, especially if one cup was seized up like when a seal got stuck or someone forgot to remove a clip or someone used an impact on a press and hit it with too many uggaduggas. This type tool is an improvement over the factory recommended press adapters that push on the trunnion as it works on the same principle in that it only is applying force to one ear instead of both but this type adapter fits a wider range sizes of u joints. FWIW now that I suppose the patent ran out or whatnot there are other companies now making their own versions of this tool, like OTC and Lisle. FWIW the Lisle has held up pretty darn well in our shop for being half the price of the original Tiger.
I noticed you aren't using an impact gun on that.....can it handle an impact gun. It would make that job really go fast, making more money! This tool could pay for it self in no time.....speaking of that, how much does it retail for? Thanks
Why not make one that used a small bottle jack ram and hydraulically presses the part out???? I just used a big__s hydraulic puller set made by Backhawk back in the 1950s. Amazing stuff them old Blackhawk tools. Blackhawk even made a conduit bender that would bend 1/2 rigid"- 2" thinwall, and 2" rigid conduits and it was the size of a small suitcase, but it did weigh about 90 pounds. Their U Joint Pitman arm puller set had a portapower type hydraulic pump, and the same type clamp & ram assembly.
I've bent yokes pressing them out with a chinese 10 ton hydraulic press. I think a hammering action is better than brute force pressing. I might try an attachment for my long stroke air hammer.
You'd think they would design a better driveshaft that doesn't have the internal groove that gets smashed and the retainer doesn't fit after you have to put 9 million lbs of pressure to get out
Awesome tool, and good video. I'm going to replace the U Joint on the rear Driveshaft of my pathfinder, because I'm getting some vibration between 40-60mph and squeaks when I drive, and it's worn out . Would it be wise to replace the front also? Even if it's not worn? Thanks for your advice.
If money is an issue AND the rear is a premature failure than just replace the bad one. If both have a lot of miles on them its just a good idea to replace both. Unless you are under your rig quite a bit I recommend using spicer maintenance free joints. They have superior seals and last a very very long time.
I found the 10105 puller online for $164 and the 10202 bearing cup installer for $163 so I am not sure where you are getting your prices but you might want to try somewhere else.
It’s one of those too easy videos No oil used No lube Just did u joints on an old car Wouldn’t move This works easy on clean u joints that have been done before
Available on Amazon
20503 Kit: a.co/d/cYSWJRq
10105 Puller: a.co/d/9DD3IYz
10202 Installer : a.co/d/45eo1YA
70300 Pliers: a.co/d/0Zx7TOP
By design, force is applied ONLY to ONE cup, NOT TWO as with a typical ball joint press (c-frame). Tiger uses approx.HALF the force a BJP would take to do the same U joint. For those seized-up stinkers it appliest approx.TWICE as much force as the BJP at a given scrw pressure. If it looked too easy it's because it was TWICE as easy using TIGER TOOL. I took time to say this because they are GREAT to deal with... I got AWESOME customer sevice recently thamks to KEVIN. I don't forget that.
JP-USA
I installed the u-joint with this tool and I used my solid gold 3/4 ratchet
Donna Edminster 😂🤣
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
You clearly were trying too hard!! He only used a silver 3/8 ratchet. By the way…….he did it in 6 minutes, how long did your big hammer take? Time is money in a shop, and having done hundreds of u-joints I would buy this tool again if mine broke
Bought the 10105 a while back. Used it today to press out my ‘01 Dodge 2500 front axle u-joints. This thing made it extremely easy! Used a 1/2’ Cordless impact. Just used my balljoint press to reinstall. Well worth the money imho.
Snap On BJP1 BJ press ?
I just bought one it works great I’ll never use the old socket and hammer method again 👍
Outstanding !👍🏽 video I never knew this tool existed till now I just ordered one can’t wait to start using it 👌🏽
I like tools. 9 years later TH-cam pops up in feed. Not enough rust on that to be impressive. Plus cost for DIY. Already own two sockets and BFH.
Amazon and eBay how the knockoffs for $50 or less
I wished my Toyota u joints bearing caps came out this easy. Not only I used the Tiger Tool to push out the caps, I had to pound them out with a brass punch and 2 lb sledge hammer.
On sale on amazon only 99 bucks for the removal tool! A must for any flat rate mechanic.
I have one of these. If the u-joints are very rusted you will have to use a combination of hammer and socket technique, and this tool. This tool does not push universal joints out well when they are very rusted.
It sounds like you’re not using the tool properly because I went and got an old rusty driveshaft from the junkyard and I was able to press the caps out
Just did mine rusty crap on 88 cherokee. Pb blaster and ratchet. Not too shabby at all.
@@colinkennedy908 yeah I could have been doing something incorrectly haha honestly I don't remember now that was like 5 years ago. Those new joints that I have installed on the day that I left my original comment 5 years ago are still good to this very day!!
This would be great for on the road rescue operations. My only issue was the drummer for the background music. So all in all good review.
Yeah that background music is pretty goofy lmao..."dun dun dun dun!!"
only issue with this is the damn PRICE! If they sold them for $50 then more people would use it and buy it....
I picked up a set at a yard sale for $5. Works awesome, the woman who sold it didn't know what it was.
If it was $50.00 it would be a piece of junk that would bend or break.
If they gave it away demand would go through the roof!
Was your car cheap? If you can't afford to maintain your vehicle. Might I suggest public transportation or a bicycle or old fashioned walking. Proper tools that are of sufficient quality to repair vehicles without breaking are as you put it "is the damn PRICE!". You must think the people who work on cars should do it for free. I mean it's so easy a quadriplegic mud puddle can do it. You have no skills because you have no idea that tools of any craft cost money. You are the burger flipper demanding $15/hr and being replaced by a self order kiosk.
Auto Zone will lend you these tools
Don't worry, harbor freight will no doubt have a clone pretty soon for 40 bux for the pair, those could be produced somewhere in Asia for five bux each.
wish they would hurry up
hddm3 don't know why these places want to price there selves out of the market. pro or not, that's just to much money
Especially with that cast crystallized recycled monkey metal they use. I thought, "WOW< these Harbor Freight deep clamps are awesome for $12. They are okay to repair a guitar, but anything where you need some force the frame breaks apart rather violently.
the u joints I just removed required a 4 ton press...came out with a bang each time. I think I'd have broken a tool like this trying! one time the joint broke through the bearing cap cause it was stuck so badly! If I thought this tool would work on rusty 15 year old salt soaked rusty trucks, I'd buy one today!
It can likely impart far more than 4 tons of force.
At 3:29 all I was doing was pushing the bearing caps in tight enough so they wouldn't fall out while I got the C-frame in to place. The cross of the u-joint slid in freely. I have however done what you suggested years ago on my Jeep... I had to change the joints out 3 weeks later!
Now lets see you do that on real world u-joints ... you know the ones that have been installed for 20 years. Those came out way to easy, and it didn't look like it was because of the tool.
Seriously though, why not just use a ball-joint puller.
Yeah, and how about ruining the Aluminum style yoke while he's at it with the single end tool !!!
We have been manufacturing this tool for over 25 years and I can only recall a few instances (we have been made aware of) where the driveline was so seized our tool wouldn’t work. In most cases we find it’s more important how the force is applied verses how much force is applied to complete this type of job correctly.
what a neat setup.
My 95 f250 has an internal c clip for the front passenger joint so this tool will save me hours of work since you cant fit a press there. Very excited to get this
Just did the u-joints on my 2000 F-150 and there's NO WAY this tool would have worked to remove the old ones. Since I didn't have a vice it took me and a friend to hold down the driveshaft and use the ball-joint/u-joint press to press the joints out and the new ones in.
These two tools are easy to remove and install!
Thanks for the great video tutorial, very much appreciated
this thing is $385.00! I don't know who buys this thing. if you have a shop and are trying to run a business you can't spend $400 for this thing. the savings in time vs. doing it the old way will not off set the cost. profit margins are too tight for extravagances like this. BUT I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE ONE!
I like how he stops installing the second cup because he probably jammed the bearings lol. you can see the cup sticking out when installing the yoke. too expensive! ball joint press and a hammer is the way to go
Great looking tool, but I just used one of those big u-joint presses and broke a cap. I went back to using a socket and hammer.
Nice, gotta stick to my hammer and drift method over here though $$$
I have the puller except fit heavy truck drivelines love it
Its only 99 on amazon now,if you have ever been the ears of a drive shaft u can appreciate this tools value.... Dont ask me how i know,plus it speeds the whole process up pays for itself after 2 or three u joint jobs
I use a c clamp an a socket easy removal and installation I’m not a mechanic but handy
$300 are you fucking kidding me sockets & Hammer that's the best...
That was my reaction. F__K THAT! It should be hydraulic for that kinda coin.
The music...
so C clamp and a big socket would be about the same thing?
basically
I just tried c-clamp, it couldnt handle the job. Ball joint tool works well.
you realize the "installer" c clamp does the exact same thing with a little more positioning right?
can't tell you the number of times doing it this way has caused one of the needle bearings to "fall down" and get "squished" during the press-in. (and yes, the bearings were greased before hand just to keep them from "falling down").
Found it much safer to push one cup well past the circlip hold to be si\ure the opposing cup with its needle bearings would NOT fall down.
Looked to me like that might be what happened in this video. The second cup looked like it never fully seated and never showed putting that clip in on video, and at the end you could see that cup sitting a little too proud of the ear on the yoke.
Or just make sure the trunnion is inserted in both cups before pressing them home, just float it between the two while pressing.
This would totally be worth it if it cost like 20 bucks
No kidding... they want hundreds for an overglorified C-Clamp.. you can buy a damn press cheaper!!
A BALL JOINT REMOVAL TOOL WORKS ON REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION I OWN ONE ,IF YOU DONT OWN ONE AUTOZONE RENTALS ARE FREE JUST LEAVE A DEPOSIT, BTW CLEAN AND LUBRICATE ALL MATING SURFACES TO MAKE THE JOB EASIER.
Bearing cup mating surfaces go together dry, not lubricated.
@@28704joe No, Anti seize or rescue steel used sparingly stop corrosion and dry face shearing
@@leehotspur9679 Howard, look this issue up on the Spicer website. Cheers.
"Caution - Spicer DOES NOT recommend wiping the
outside of bearing cup assemblies or yoke cross holes with
grease, oil or silicone-based sprays. This could result in bearing cup assembly rotation in yokes. "
Why not use a two jaw gear puller?
Nice but putting that cup on should b one side at a time or risk hitting the pin bearings in cup then.....u kno what happen then.
When you use the C-clamp to put the little retainer back in place, how does only one side is pushed inside, and not both since both jaws of the clamp are sitting on the U-joint outsides?
Seems like a great tool for a shop where you miiiiight encounter that 1 in however many cars where a hammer/socket wont work.. buuut for the rest of us? Ill stick to a hammer/socket. Awesome idea though, just with the price was a bit easier on the wallet.
4 tons / 2 = 2 tons on the Tiger Tool.....My Tiger Tool has handled that kind of force no problem.
JP-USA
Would be great if you did a lot of u-joints or if money is no object.
Needle bearing jump out on ya?
Cool tool, but I'll stick with my 20 ton press.
@ 3;29 it is possible that he didn't make sure the u-joint was inserted far enough into the cap and a needle bearing may have fallen out of place. That will not allow the cap to go into it's proper position and could destroy the u-joint if not done properly. May be why it appeared to be hung up.
Nice!! Easy with the right tools I must get one of those tiger tool
If the driveshaft is bigger than that tool it won't work, a ball joint tool is just as good and does another job too. Replace ball joints as well. Great marketing
You all prolly dont care at all but does any of you know a way to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Louis Ernesto Instablaster ;)
@Jamie Titus Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jamie Titus it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you really help me out!
@Louis Ernesto happy to help xD
I need mine done you made that s*** look easy
A socket and a vice always worked for me.
@TsmnnDvl5 Hi TsmnndvI5, We have manufactured these tools for over 20 years and have yet to here of a case where this has happened. Generally speaking the yoke ears are stronger than the cast portion of the glove that pulls against the yoke.
What happened to the one that didn't want to go down..?
He had to remove it and reline the bearings, that does happen sometimes.
I want one of those!
You don't need a c clamp to press them back in. Take a second to clean the cap hole out and debur the edge. They slide back in
awesome tool
excellent video! I have never seen that removal tool. Nice, Clean and quit! great vid.
I BET HOME BOY HAS BEARINGS LAYING DOWN INSIDE THE CUPS . THOSE CUPS WEREN'T INSTALLED ALL THE WAY. OTC BALL JOINT PRESS 120 BUCKS WITH AIR TOOLS PREFERABLY.
LUBE THREADS ON PULLER, REMOVE GREASE ZERK FIRST
$100 for a C clamp . Available at Home Depot for $10
I have NEVER had a u-joint come out that easy OR go in that easy also. They have always been rusted in.
thank you sir this was a huge help
It's $176 on Amazon on 12/13/2015. I'm going to trade the 6 year old whiny one sitting across the table from me for one of these tools.
BrianXR Every one has a whiny kid, there isn't a big demand for one of those.
very good
A big vice can become a boat anchor due to overloading. The typical Acme thread pitch is not capable of properly (w/out cheater pipe) creating the force required for many stubborn cases. Some huge vices have relatively WEAK captive nuts. Vice method w/sockets (like ball-joint press method) is trying to move both cups instead of 1 cup the Tiger Tool way. So again the Tiger requires approx. half the force the vice needs to do the same u-joint. Tiger goes under vehicle too-saves time . JP-USA
Amigo te hablan de aquí de Colombia Qué precio tiene esa herramienta para cambiar crucetas Gracias amigo
I like it but I find the use of 2 separate tools to be excessive. Both removal and replacement can be achieved by using a balljoint press which is similar to the install tool shown. Great demonstration though.
Sweet, but it's the bench vice and sockets for me.
Great video.
What if you have joints with clips on out side ?? Nothing in video on that !!
Great U-Joint video.
Awesome tool!!! Thanks for the share!
Those tools would have been really nice to have... a hammer and sockets worked really well though lol. He didn't even finish lol
would this tool work on gm u joints.. instead of heating them up to get that plastic worm to shoot out!!!!!
U-joints in Minnesota do not just come apart lake that. LOL
Very useful tool! Made it look very easy bc it was!!
I've gotta get me one of those!
Cool video but expensive.. Id rather take a 5 lbs sledge and smack the ears with the shafts on a angle and in two or three good whacks the cap will pop off.
i made the same tool along time ago out of a pitman are puller and a large c clamp and a socket. a bit over kill on the price
So much more civilized than the old hammer and socket lol.
What are the chances/odds of this tool bending the "eyes" where the caps go while pressing in or out? A very interesting tool kit.
This type tool eliminates the risk of spreading the ears on a yoke because instead of pushing them apart like we used to pounding them out with a BFH or using a ball joint press you instead are only pushing on the sides of the opposing yoke's ears (or the u-joint trunnion after you have one side out) where there is no risk of spreading them and pulling on just one ear while pushing the trunnion. There is no risk of spreading the ears on the yoke when there are no forces applied in opposite directions to both ears like the old-school methods would often do, especially if one cup was seized up like when a seal got stuck or someone forgot to remove a clip or someone used an impact on a press and hit it with too many uggaduggas.
This type tool is an improvement over the factory recommended press adapters that push on the trunnion as it works on the same principle in that it only is applying force to one ear instead of both but this type adapter fits a wider range sizes of u joints. FWIW now that I suppose the patent ran out or whatnot there are other companies now making their own versions of this tool, like OTC and Lisle. FWIW the Lisle has held up pretty darn well in our shop for being half the price of the original Tiger.
I picked up a set at a yard sale for $5. Works great. The woman who sold it didn't know what it was.
sneaky!! notice skipped complete installation @ 4:39???
I saw that to. Was wondering if it was done on purpose or if he made a mistake?
Good tool.🙂
Can you use the first tool to also install?
I purchased th 10105 and it does not work on Chevrolet 1500 alumium shaft , it slips off.
Very nice. Beats a hammer and a socket. How much for the puller?
The caps in the shaft ears, aren't even flush.
I noticed you aren't using an impact gun on that.....can it handle an impact gun. It would make that job really go fast, making more money! This tool could pay for it self in no time.....speaking of that, how much does it retail for?
Thanks
i use a hammer a vise them out
pedro rodriguez english please
Cool, I'll just stick with my ball joint tool kit...
Why not make one that used a small bottle jack ram and hydraulically presses the part out???? I just used a big__s hydraulic puller set made by Backhawk back in the 1950s. Amazing stuff them old Blackhawk tools. Blackhawk even made a conduit bender that would bend 1/2 rigid"- 2" thinwall, and 2" rigid conduits and it was the size of a small suitcase, but it did weigh about 90 pounds. Their U Joint Pitman arm puller set had a portapower type hydraulic pump, and the same type clamp & ram assembly.
I've bent yokes pressing them out with a chinese 10 ton hydraulic press. I think a hammering action is better than brute force pressing. I might try an attachment for my long stroke air hammer.
You'd think they would design a better driveshaft that doesn't have the internal groove that gets smashed and the retainer doesn't fit after you have to put 9 million lbs of pressure to get out
هل من الممكن اعرف سعرها واين نباع
Awesome tool, and good video. I'm going to replace the U Joint on the rear Driveshaft of my pathfinder, because I'm getting some vibration between 40-60mph and squeaks when I drive, and it's worn out . Would it be wise to replace the front also? Even if it's not worn? Thanks for your advice.
If money is an issue AND the rear is a premature failure than just replace the bad one. If both have a lot of miles on them its just a good idea to replace both. Unless you are under your rig quite a bit I recommend using spicer maintenance free joints. They have superior seals and last a very very long time.
*ducks out of the way of any possibly thrown computer monitors*
For all of those people bitching about price;
Buy the tools, replace your u-joins, return the tools. There, it's free.
Handle it! 👍
I found the 10105 puller online for $164 and the 10202 bearing cup installer for $163 so I am not sure where you are getting your prices but you might want to try somewhere else.
puller is good. Installer canbe replaced by shop vise.
the installer is just a modified c-clamp
Where can i get one....🍻🍻🍻
awsome!
It’s one of those too easy videos
No oil used
No lube
Just did u joints on an old car
Wouldn’t move
This works easy on clean u joints that have been done before