3D Printing a NACA Duct to Cool My Turbos- 3D scan, CAD, 3D printing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ต.ค. 2022
- 3d scanning playlist: • 3D Scanning and Printing
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Recorded on GoPro 7 Black: amzn.to/2YW7B5N
Edited with Pinnacle Studio: amzn.to/30NWm11
extremely underrated videos, thanks so much!
You have such amazing content ! You are literally doing everything and more of the things I'm getting into right now. Very nicely designed parts. I know there are people that don't care about the asthetics when designing things. You on the other hand prefers to do things more professionally. Continue making more amazing work and content !
Really appreciate you showing the process. If I ever get my car built I hope I can use what you have shared.
Wouldn't it be easier if you just designed a tapered duct intake?
It's at the front of the car and really easy to get clean airflow.
You don't really need naca duct to get a lot of airflow.
Yeah. Thought about it. Since I needed to slide the duct to the side a bit it’s getting to not as high pressure and since I had wool tufts on the car in the wind tunnel, felt it’s location was better served with a naca duct. If I was more centered on the car then yeah, just a round inlet would be fine.
@@ajhartmanaero
What was the reason for running the ducts out wider?
Could you not run the exit duct parallel with the headlight cover and a gentle arc back to the turbos.
I am new to this but would have thought the greater pressure differential in closer to radiator opening would provide better flow naca duct or otherwise?
Shoot me down I want to learn.
Aluminium rivets in carbon fiber will cause galvanic corrosion between the two parts.
I did something similar on a daily and the rivets lasted 6 months before snapping one by one. Every one turned to a lovely white powder. It might be something to keep an eye on or mention in your videos. Dark aero did a good video explaining galvanic corrosion between aluminium and carbon fiber :)
Yeah I saw that one. Well aware of it. I have rivits in carbon in several places on my car for years without issue. I think the issue comes in if they see water frequently? Either way, good point but I’m not concerned about it in this case. If it’s an issue I can get some stainless rivets.
This is so cool!
Very cool process
I like your use of onshape, if you want to you can use it with simscale to due some of your own cfd like I saw in your splitter video, Also in order to get the part to the exact space your made it you could probably unfold the the headlight using the sheetmetal tool and print it on paper with the sketch on it and just line it up. Im not 100% as im still learning to do this myself but might be something to try. Love the videos.
Someone probably said this, but wouldn't you want an exhaust duct, not a supply duct? "Sucking" air out of that turbo area seems like it would be more effective. Thoughts? I'm trying to get their design info, but someone I knew said they did just that and had significantly lower temps, including even overall engine coolant temps as that whole are was much cooler (turbo, IP, DP, exhaust manifold, etc. )
Hiya thks for sharing...
Is it possible to use Samsung s20 or iPhone ledar sensor n software to get this scanning result?
Love the track car. Also was surprised to hear you engine swapped it with an f150.
Do you ever plan on doing a video on the car talking about all the modifications and specs?
Thought about it. I may eventually since it’s such a weird mix of parts.
Hi
It s PTEG ?
You make cutting carbon fiber look so easy let me tell you guys I trim a few parts it is not that easy jam up on the ducts
I’ve been doing it for about 8 years now. You’ll get there.
Hey AJ your Amazon affiliate link points to a Revo Pop2 seller that doesnt sell anymore.
Ah shoot. I guess since they released the pop3 the 2 are getting phased out. I'll update it.
A suggestion based on watching automakers perfectly, repeatably place badges on car trunks on the assembly line:
If you decide to make more for others to use, then go back to your CAD model to make a jig that helps place the duct on the headlight blank.
Minimum tooling, the left / right hand side jigs would let you mark duct opening on the headlight blanks.
And, if you want to avoid printing jigs for the customer: get the placement with a printed jig, then convert it to CAD... no, that *other* CAD: Cardboard Aided Design. Get the jig back to a printed sheet that you can ship with the duct.
Do you make custom parts for people? What are starting price ranges? Like, hoods, doors, etc. Do you also do fiberglass? What is usual turn around? Thanks.
Not currently. To small of a shop (man power wise) to take on more work.
@@ajhartmanaero Oh ok. I was needing some parts made. I'm located in Central Illinois
Have u ever made a hayabusa head light?
No.
how you verify your naca duct is working properly?
|/
my criteria for working is "something is better than nothing" in this case. So yes, its working.
Nice :) I hope the duct print out of ABS or some heat resistant material :) Also you can cut a part in half then glue it for better finish surface or a resin might even better :) Thx
Pretty sure I mentioned it’s PLA.
@@ajhartmanaero PLA is gon deform pretty quickly, just under the summer sun will do 60 ez
@@rendition8528 What if I told you I already did a race and the car was sitting in the sun all weekend? Granted it was maybe upper 70's. But being light blue it won't get as hot as a black part. So I'll disagree with you and feel PLA is ok for this application but will follow up with this comment next summer if I'm wrong.
@@ajhartmanaero perhaps its not under any load or pressure, plus the cylindrical shape provide good structural integrity. Here in Taiwan most part I printed in PETG (rated 80c) deformed during the summer, had since moved to ASA and PC never had a problem since then. PLA is just generally not recommanded for most outdoor applications.
@@ajhartmanaero Great video. I will say that people's experience with PLA will vary widely. Not all PLA filament is created equal :). Some PLA is more heat resistant than others. I printed a PLA enclosure for my race dash and it deformed after 1 weekend events sitting inside the car in the sun. Got some PLA+ and it did better but still ended up deforming after a few events. Printed in PETG and so far no issues at all. I love these videos and great to see your process from start to finish!
How did you arrive at the axis - orientation? Shouldn’t it be in line with airflow? Thinking the old tufts of yarn to see the flow pattern might be the way to go.
You know I took this to a wind tunnel? The naca duct with its shape is effectively in line with airflow. th-cam.com/video/tp0pTuRGI8o/w-d-xo.html
@@ajhartmanaero nope, wasn’t aware of it having been blown over. Sorry, as I assumed wrong and the dialogue had me thinking you were orienting it for appearance.
Nice job on the video and explanation of the process.
Would it be possible to take the cad model and print it as a mold to do the ducts in carbon fiber?
@@georgedreisch2662 I don't think so. It was designed to 3d print so I think there are negative draft angles on the part that would lock onto a mold.
I wanted to know abs and pla are denser than carbon counterparts, but from your experience now, hoe much HEAVIER are the printed components? There are now ultra lightweight filaments made for small /uav aircraft that rival balsawood and foam.... would I'm mostly curious about weight comparisons to these small parts
@@ajhartmanaero could do it with a 3d printed split mold.
What results did you gain with these?
No concrete data but I’d blow out the driver side turbo gasket every race or two and that hasn’t happened yet. So they must be moving just enough air to not cook itself.
You should look into a resin printer
Sell me on one. I never really looked into them so what am I missing about them?
@@ajhartmanaero Pros: Resolution in the micron range, end results that look injection molded, "Tough Resin" has a high yield before failure and is stronger than abs, 2000 MPA bending modulus. Cons: stinky and smelly and maybe a bit messy.