How to Remove Brush Cutter Blades
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- I get a lot of questions about how to remove brush cutter blades. It's not easy! When I worked in a dealership you could hear the process going on out in the shop. First, there'd be the zinging of the air tools trying to get the nuts off. Next would be the pounding of the bolts trying to get them out. Finally would be the crash of the blade and bolt hitting concrete and the job was done.
If it would have been a different cutter, I would have loaded it on a trailer and taken it to a dealership and had them change the blades. But, it's an 8-footer and pretty wide to haul and I wanted to do it here, to see if the average weekend farmer, like me, could make it happen in the backyard.
The first thing I did was to order a cheap torque multiplier from Amazon. Torque multipliers are just what they sound like, they have gears inside that take the torque you're applying and multiply it so you can tighten a bolt above the specs of your torque wrench or loosen stuck bolts like what we're trying to do here. The torque multiplier was a 5X model, was half inch drive, and cost $78. It didn't have exactly glowing reviews and my expectation level for it was pretty low. I figured it might be able to hold together long enough to take off four nuts to get the old blades off, and put new ones on and torque them to 600 ft. lbs like the owner's manual calls for with my 200 ft. lb torque wrench.
I don't say this in the video, but I tried to get the bolts off on my own. I found a socket that fit the carriage bolts on the cutter, secured a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter from O'Reilly's, and started to try to get the nuts to loosen. I quickly saw I was bending the handle on the torque multiplier into a "c" when applying pressure to it. I didn't think it would survive the project.
That's when I called Chris, the owner of 417 Service. He has a mobile repair business that specializes in farm and outdoor power equipment. He has a repair truck with air tools, but he seems to prefer electric, or battery-powered impacts to do tasks like this. So we did a test to see what worked and what didn't in removing stuck brush hog blade bolts.
The first thing we did was squirt everything with WD-40 to loosen up the nuts. The bush hog deck has holes in it that allow you to get to the bolts, but they're tough to get a spray can into. WD-40, my sponsor for this video, has this cool new product with a flexible straw called EZ Reach which was a cinch to get in to the threads.
Next we tried the el-cheapo torque multiplier to loosen the worst of the stuck nuts. Chris broke it almost before I had the camera running. Better torque multipliers can cost between $300 and $600, and they probably would have handled this job. The cheap one did not.
Chris then started trying to remove the nuts with several different options...1/2" drive electric and air-powered impacts and 3/4" drive electric and air-powered impacts and you can watch the results.
In the end, here's what I learned. First, if you think you'll use a torque multiplier, get a good one. Second, I think I'd take the money I'd spend on a good torque multiplier and instead invest in a 1/2" or 3/4" drive battery-powered impact. Third, I'm keeping the WD-40 EZ Reach in my shop to get into hard to reach areas. Fourth, air tools are still the best way to go for the really difficult jobs and finally, I'm glad I know Chris, if there's a guy like him in your area, you should get to know him.
In the next video we'll look at when to sharpen the blades and when to remove and replace, and then a final video will show putting the blades back on.
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Love these videos. Wanted to share something with the Tractor Mike followers. I did as the video instructed and was able to get the nuts off with a $80 HF 3/4 air impact driver with no problem (which I will use for other things now that I have it). The pins ARE a different story. I have a Bush Hog 286 and my son and I pounded on these things (with 2 cans of PB and Liquid wrench) for 3 days....nothing. Out of frustration I finally called Bush Hog for help. What did they do.....they sent two guys to my house within 24 hours and they pounded for about 25 minutes each and finally got them out...for FREE (14 year old cutter, mind you). Then they proceeded to replace the blades and pivot bolts for FREE. When I told them I had already purchased the blades/bolts they said return them and save your money. Customer service is important to me and I just wanted to share the experience I had with the Bush Hog company.
i got the HF 3/4 cordless impact for $400. hasnt let me down yet and seldom needs recharged. i plan to get a IR or HF air hammer for the pins on my brush hog rather than hammer and punch. leaving the nut on half way should help protect the threads as well.
As I have mentioned here before, I have a small business in southwest Colorado doing custom tractor 🚜 jobs. This time of year my biggest business is cutting brush and weeds. I watched this video last night, today I was doing a brush cutting job and hit a big rock 🪨. The vibration was tremendous and didn't quit so I turned the tractor off to have a look. What I saw was unbelievable. One of the blades and pins was gone, I never found them. I am really glad that nobody was around, they could have been seriously injured. I took your advice and ordered 2 new blades and pins. Together they are about $200.00. I have the air impact and have had blades off to sharpen them before so it won't be that big of a job. Just wanted to let everyone know that you have to keep everyone clear from a rotary cutter, they're dangerous, be careful.
Lots of good info on this site. Removed old stubborn bush hog blades bolts after heating the nuts cherry-red with a rosebud. Came off easily with an impact air wrench. thx
I'm amazed that anyone who uses a brush cutter with any regularity would wait years to remove blades. I mow about 60-80 hours per year with a Bush Hog® SQ160 rotary cutter, and I remove the blades at least twice a year. I keep two sets of blades, one installed on the cutter, and the other sharpened and ready to swap out during the mowing season. I purchased a quality (Craftsman) 3/4" drive breaker bar, extension, and 1 11/16" socket, and I use a 1" X 5' galvanized "cheater" pipe to break the nuts loose. A couple of taps on the bolt with a brass punch and the bolt comes out easily every time. I remove and replace one blade at a time to preclude having to manipulate the heavy stump jumper at the same time as installing the blade, which is quite heavy. Installation is the reverse of removal, and with a 5' cheater bar it isn't difficult to torque to 440 ft-lbs, the recommended nut torque for my cutter. Granted, it's a guess when you've got it tight enough, but in 22 years of doing it this way, I've never had a blade problem.
I just replaced my cutter blades today. Last night I coated each pin with a healthy dose of penetrating oil and let it work its magic for 12 hours. With a 3’ cheater bar, the nuts broke free without any serious effort this morning. I will say that raising the machine up on blocks a couple of feet made the job bearable. I don’t bend like I use to. Lol
Great video! Chris is solid gold! As you know he came out and worked on my Mahindra when I torqued the bucket all up and got it in a bind. Great guy who really knows his stuff!
Mike, one thing you went over lightly and really should be addressed is the compressor needs of an air powered impact. While the impact may have the torque to handle the bolts, do not expect your compressor that you use to air up a tire to drive an impact. An impact wrench will have an air volume rating on it in cfm@psi. The compressor needs to meet these requirements.
That's why I don't buy little air compressors, sure they're nice to carry out to your car to air up a tire but they don't run air tools, they may run a small nail gun but they're not meant for running tools, and they're not made to run for long periods of time like the larger air compressors are.
Great video.. I tackled my bushhog 3210 after watching your video. You don’t mention heating the nuts with torch if they give you trouble. I also had to heat a few of the bolts to give them a bit of persuasion before the Sledge. You also need to mention the need to clean the blade bar holes with a die grinder or sand paper. I also wire wheeled the new bolts to remove the paint. After that they went in very easy...
Can I make a couple of suggestions? First, I liberally oil those bolts and nuts at the beginning and especially the end of every season. That way the oil has weeks and months to soak in, preventing further rusting too. Second tip: heavily grease the threads when reassembling. Never reinstall them dry. I use copper anti-seize compound, by Permatex I think.
i got all four anti seizes floating around here somewhere. graphite, copper, silver and nickel. life without that stuff just plain sucks.
I was shocked when Mike said those blades had been on that machine for so long. There’s no way that I’d trust the pins to hold up under that abuse for more than 3 years.
3/4 drive with piece of pipe for a less expensive torque multiplier. Works for me after I cut access hole in mower deck. After I cover the hole with an electrcial box cover held by a couple of self drilling screws.
Two great people I've worked with in the past. Learned tricks from both these gentleman. Good video Mike & Chris!
LARRY!!! How the heck are you? Think the Chiefs will be any better this year?
Tractor Mike I'm doing good & I've about give up on the Chiefs lol. Can't seem to understand their decision making
I have a prediction. If Mahomes is what I think he is and stays healthy, I think our offense may break 60 points in a few games this year :). Problem is, I'm afraid the defense will give up 70+ in those same games.
Great info as always, Mike, thanks! Btw, don't rule out a 120V electric impact. I've had my DeWalt DW292 for a few years now, and it's paid for itself, for sure! It's removed some impossible-looking nuts & bolts. Among other jobs, I use it to easily remove and install the 1-11/16" blade nuts on my LandPride 6-foot brushcutter. Old rusted, nasty ball joint nuts, etc, are no problem. Not to mention how easy it makes pulling wheels, rotating tires, etc, around here. I love the thing! You have to be within reach of 120VAC of course, but there are no battery issues to worry about, either.
Mike's videos are awesome!!!
Thank you!
How to remove blades at home
Spray everything with liquid wrench.
Use a 3/4” socket with a 6’ cheater bar and push with your feet while lying down. It should come loose.
The bolts will be stuck and probably won’t come loose easily. Screw the nut back on without the lock washer until it is flush with the end to protect the threads. Support the stump jumper with something like a stack of block or jack or jack stand to keep it from bouncing. Smack the nut with a skinny thick walled pipe and a maul.
I can see an air hammer being real handy at getting those stubborn blade pins out.
When you put the nuts back on maybe using some anti-sieze would help the next time you have to take them on. Just a tought!
Great video Mike!! I have harbor freights corded impact and I'm surprised it was able to break the nuts on our brush hog. Sometimes you do get what you pay for and other times you get lucky.
Chris, I think your Milwaukee cordless impact guns are made in the same China as Mike's torque multiplier is.
I use several progressive sizes of pvc pipe over a metal cheater bar when I want a lot of torque and no impact wrench. By layering the pvc pipes inside of each other it is like having thick solid PVP as a very long cheater bar. I have used all 10 feet on some stubborn bolts.
Mike A very interesting video. I've never taken off my blades but now I know what to expect if I need to.
Mike I'm glad you have an amiable mechanic you can count on. My question is about sizing the brush cutter to the tractor power. I have a 7 foot Rhino Bush Hog that is only a few years old, so I was trying to size my tractor purchase to fit the equipment (small 3-point Hoeme, 6 foot Rhino blade, 14 ft IH wheat drill, 5 bottom lister), I already had. Formerly I used these implements accumulated over the years on a little early '60s era MF 85 I inherited from my dad.
When it was time to replace the MF 85 I was unable to find anyone in sales who would offer an educated opinion on whether a new 5055E JD had the muscle in the PTO /power lift section to handle my 7 foot, 3-point Rhino shredder. Their charts said yes, but they seemed less than enthusiastic, as was I. After pairing the two together for 3 years I'm still not convinced that my shredder isn't oversized for this 5055E tractor. I never have to mow anything heavier than dense 3 foot tall Kochia weeds (which can get pretty woody in hot, dry TX Panhandle conditions), and normally I'm mowing nothing more than 6 inch irrigated Bermuda, Buffalo grass mix in my 5 acre barnyard.
In my heavily agricultural area, small homestead type tractors are the red-headed stepchild of the business. Most implement salesmen are only interested in selling the huge four wheel drive, high-dollar rigs to their farmer customers, of which ironically, I am one. My 35 years experience raising irrigated corn, cotton, and wheat with the big equipment doesn't do me much good when it's time to talk homestead, veggie garden usage. Around here us folks with smaller needs are merely a headache they run from whenever possible, so your videos have been fun for me to watch and learn.
A lot of times you're not getting an educated opinion because the salesman you're talking to doesn't know for sure. I've been there. There are tractor/implement pairings that look good on paper but don't always work in the real world. Sometimes you just have to hook everything together and do a "demo" to really know what's going to happen.
My Kubota M6060 pulled a 7’ cutter with ease.. I know pull a Bushhog 3210, also with some ease. I’m in south texas... These are both pull style cutters.. not 3 pt
You night want to place some support (blocking) under the blade or stump jumper as close to the head of the pin as possible. Pounding on the pin without support can cause torque to the shaft where it enters the gearbox and damage to your gearbox seal. And if all the pounding does not work, heat the area around the pin with a rosebud tip on your oxygen and acetylene torch - do not heat the pin itself (you do not want the pin to expand). While hot hit it with the with the hose to cool it and that should break even the toughest bond. Then use anti-seize as these guys suggest and everything will be so much easier the next time around. I have a Woods BB840 and what started our as a 1 to 2 hour job lasted 6 hours - but I got it done.
I used a breaker bar - U channel conduit with a 3/4" socket bar on my 41mm (1 1/6") blade nuts.
Sadly my Dewalt 1/2" impact (with 3/4" adaptor) did not get those nuts loose. They were only a few months old. New 4' rotary cutter.
Had to torque the new blades up to 350 foot pounds. Bought a heavy duty torque wrench for that. Had to use the breaker bar again to get to 350 pounds.
My local marine mechanic swears by Sloan’s. He could not free up a pivot pin on a big outboard. Put him onTo Sloan’s. Soaked it in over nite. Freed it right up
Nice video Mike. I like the WD-40 that you had, may have to get one. I’ve got the Milwaukee 1/2 fuel impact and I haven’t come across a nut that I couldn’t get off yet. I’m sure I will someday, also I bought an ez red 3/4 extendible ratchet off amazon that really puts some torque on the fasteners. Thanks for the video.
I have an 110 volt electric impact that works well.
During reassembly try some anti seeze compund for future.
I used an battery operated earthquake impact wrench from harbor freight it worked. Money well spent
One should always do there own work. Lesson I was taught was unless your a doctor or lawyer you need to learn to fix your own stuff because some day will come
I vote for letting my dealer do this!
Would it ever be beneficial to add a little heat via a torch of some kind to the nut or the metal surrounding the pin?
I used a 3/4" breaker bar with an extension to get the bolts off. I use a pipe on the breaker bar for leverage, but extreme care has to be used so if the socket comes off or the pipe comes off the wrench it don,t strike you. I wear a face shield, heavy gloves and use a bar so the blade won't turn underneath. The socket has to fit perfectly tight so it won't come off the bolt or strip it. I always ask myself if the wrench or pipe came off, will my arm/hands strike anything metal and if so I reposition my arms/hands.
It looked like he was using the older model of the Milwaukee 1/2 impact. The new fuel version has basically the same nut busting torque as the 3/4 tool. Also... I've seen many videos on changing rotary cutter blades and it always looks painful. Do you think it would help if when someone buys a new rotary cutter they would remove the nuts and pins and give everything a good coating of Never Seize? It would seem things would come apart much easier when it is new and the Never Seize would make blade changing easier later on.
I've used "Anti Seize" for many years. I especially like it on the lug nuts of the old trailers that I don't use much. The tires dry rot and eventually blow. "Anti Seize" makes it easy to get the nuts off with hand tools when I'm changing tires on the side of the road. I just sharpened the blades on an old "woods style" brush cutter this week. I've used "Anti Seize" on the bolt for years and the bolt came out with a socket wrench. Thanks for the video Mike.
What a great idea!👍🏻
i usally just break loose with breaker bar and a pipe but really need a 1 inch drive impact to break bolts loose
I found a four foot 3/4 inch drive breaker bar for $50 at the farm store and it removes some bolts.
Good video Mike.
I've been buying a lot of Kobalt 20v cordless tools from Lowes the last few projects I've had. It makes things easier if you can use them in place of having to drag a compressor with you or a generator. Not perfect for everything, but great in a pinch.
Good job
When should you replace your blades? I've had mine for probably almost 10 years now and never changed or sharpened them. I looked up under it a few weeks ago and they don't look all buggered up (unlike my riding mower blades). It gets a LOT of abuse (stumps, rocks, logs, pieces of metal, cinder blocks, anything someone has thrown somewhere I can't see and the cutter finds it before I do).
When they are damaged replace them. Unlike the blades on your lawn mower, the blades on a brush hog are much heavier duty steel, and hold up far better to hitting obstacles than a lawn mower blade will. So, unless they are damaged, I wouldn't worry about replacing them...Maybe buy a 2nd set so you can swap them out when they need sharpened, but I'd think by the time they need sharpened they probably have also been damaged to the point they need replaced anyway.
Never sharpen a brush cutter blade you'll weaken the steel in it causes it to break easier..only replace them..if you want lawn mower looking grass buy a finish mower and use after you bush hog..
thanks for showing the wrench, they should cover it i don't think you over did it trying to remove the nut
Interested to see how the ball joint’s come off between the gear box on this bush hog. Have one similar with double yokes between gear box. Was wanting a how too can’t seem to find anything
I have a bush hog which need the blades sharpened since it have been two years since they was last sharpened. The place where I took the tractor and bush hog to sharpened the blades while on the unit. I need to look again for tools (3/4" drive) to remove the bolts from the bush hogs. I looked once at one place then forgot it, but know that I need the tools badly so I can do this work myself.
Massey Ferguson and Bush Hog:
Not a better combination out there!!!
I always shut my mower off, before removing or sharpening my blades.
WD-40, the snake oil of the lube world, I won't bore you with how bad that stuff is, that's a whole other subject,, get some Acetone and any automatic
transmission fluid, mix it 50/50 in a spray bottle and squrt away, let it soak several hours, repeat a few times during your wait period. this method came from an article in either Home shop machinest or machinest workshop, I read years ago. they did extensive testing of many different bolt dusters and the Acetone/tranny fluid won hands down. mix only what you wish to use, the Acetone will gas off leaving you mostly tranny fluid if left in the spray bottle to long, one other caution don't use around an open flame like a torch, even tho the Acetone is cut 50/50 it still has a fairly high Flashpoint, common sense is
is the name of the game.
Manually removing the nut. got the longest breaker bar I could get 49" and put 3 more feet of pipe on that. to torque it back on 600# I got a harbor fright digital torque head that gose way past my needs,,,,,, I had to leave the mower hooked up to my tractor because the 48" deck wasn't heavy enough and just wanted to spin around on the ground.
What size socket is used to remove that nut for the blades?
1 11/16”
Thanks Mike🇺🇸👍🏻
what about lining up the hole to the nut?
Can you put never sieze on the bolts when you put it back together?
Good information.
Looks like a bear of a job for as simple as it actually is. How much would it likely cost to take the cutter into a shop to have it done?
I was wondering if you have heard of heating up the blades after sharping them? I recently replaced the metal topping on my 10 ft. Brush hog and my friend that did the job suggested having the blades heated after sharpening them. This increases the blades ability to stay sharpened longer. I’d like your thoughts on this. Thanks
I've not heard of that. Interesting...
should never use half drives on bushhog blades min 3/4 inch drive. i looked for along time snap on and craftsman unreal what they wanted for 3/4" socket set i finally broke down went to harbor bought Pittsburg socket set 68.00 dollars best sockets ever i use them for impact sockets and amazed how well they have held up impressive and has lift time warranty. i have busted one socket couple breaker bars and ratchets all on me using a 8 ft steel pipe as extra leverage anything will break. take them back no q1uestions they will replace free of charge. i sell new and used bush hogs working on them all the time
3/4 ratchet, 6 inch extension and a 3 ft pipe. A brass drift to pound out the pins, a 3 lb hammer and remember to support under the bar before pounding on the pin with a 4 X 4 from below or you can damage the main shaft. I sharpen my blades at least 4 times a season. and hog about 750 acres.
The PINK Mower got my attention ? WTHeck ? Ohhh ok its Faded Red lol
I think the 80 dollar torque multiplier should have worked but regardless it shouldn't have broken. Not having enough torque is one thing but it shouldn't have broken
I'm curious about the pin that should go into the flat of the champfer on the bolt. I can find no pictures to know what this is supposed to look like nor can i find one to purchase. Without it, it just wants to spin
how about a vid on blade sharpening
3/4" drive ratchet, pull bar , is the ONLY way to go,
I have a Bush Hog BH15 rotary cutter that I’m changing the blades on. It’s 4 or 5 years old and the blades have never been off. I got 1 blade pin that I can NOT get out of the stump jumper! I have fought this thing all evening! I do not have access to a torch. Do you have any recommendations, Mike?
I finally got the blade pin out and installed the new blades. Had to put the old pins and nuts back on. The blades I ordered off eBay (Bush Hog part number 7555BH) has “Made in Italy” stamped on them. I hope they good quality and will last. Thanks for all your videos!
Look under your cutter before doing any repairs. One time I found a copperhead snake under mine.
What size is that socket head to remove the nut?
If you have the extra cash buy the new Milwaukee 1" cordless impact something like 1500ft.lbs.torque..
Are Mike’s horse trailer and bush hog really painted pink? The top of the WD40 can is red, so it’s not my monitor. Maybe painting them pink deters theft?
Best form of theft protection I've found is to own stuff no one wants...
The "carriage bolts" that hold on my blades just spin when I apply a socket to the nuts. Got any suggestions for this issue? I've considered putting a couple of tack welds between the bolt heads and the blades and then clamping the blades to the arms (no stump jumper). That should keep the bolts from spinning to get the blades off and the tack welds could then be easily removed with a grinder.
If this video was sponsored by WD-40.... they got Ripped Off...
MOST Mechanics soak EVERY PROJECT well BEFORE they start... and, at the end, when you suggest to take your project to a Shop... that's EXACTLY what we are TRYING to AVOID!
Do you happen to know the socket size needed for the nut on the blade for a late 90's Bush Hog SQ72?
I don't, but I'm pretty sure that all of Bush Hog's parts manuals are available in PDF on their website and they should tell you. Good luck!
@@TractorMike I have a manual but it did not say anything in there but I was able to contact Bush Hog through email and found out it was a 1 11/16" socket size needed.
I vote have the blades sharpened in a machine jig , and weigh the blades to be the same .