Mike I have the squealer like yours. The bottom seal went out on mine. Being a retired state Highway Maintainer we were always changing gearbox seals so it wasn’t my first rodeo. I put a floor jack under the blade pan off to the side and removed the nut. I slide the jack to the center and it dropped down without any pounding. Changed the seal and reversed the process. If your viewer goes with option 1 he should look for signs of leaking and change the seal while he’s in that deep
We live on 20 acres, I have a tractor, a skid steer and lots of other things. Nothing makes you sicker than to tear up something but much to my wife's chagrin, IT WILL HAPPEN eventually. As someone in their late 50's, I am with Mike. There are times it is just better to pay someone. I call it the 3 hour rule, if I can't fix it myself in 3 hours (I will give myself a little more time if it is something completely new) I will pay someone. Mike is right, it is not worth injury and death to save a buck. Thank you Mike for your videos.
First I would like to take this opportunity to thank Tractor Mike for all the assistance and knowledge he has imparted to me over the last few years, you sir are one excellent resource. Having had to replace the lower seal on my 6 foot Brush Hog rapidly turned into an exercise in futility just trying to remove my cutters pan/blade assembly. The castle nut was no problem. However I tried pounding, prying, wedges, heat, cold, penetrating oil and combinations of all of these methods , to no avail trying to remove the pan/blade assembly. Then I read a post suggesting using 2 coupling nuts as screw jacks (with correct size bolts screwed in the end of each nut). First, find out how much space is available between top of the pan (just over where the blades run), to the bottom of the Brush Hog housing. I had about 2 inches (trying to remember). I Figured out the what the largest coupling nut, with 2 screws screwed in all the way (but not tight), that would fit into that space vertically. Put one of these jacks on each side of the pan, hand tightened them. Then took an open end wrench and started tightening the coupling nut on each side (quarter of a turn each time). Using coarse threads quickened this a little. I was absolutely amazed how easy the pan cam off (I thought I had broke the spine coupling, but not so). Not to long after this discovery a friend needed to remove his Brush Hog pan, but because of space limitations over his pan he was able to do the same operation with just one coupling nut and one bolt on each side of his pan. He just had to keep repositioning the coupling nut about every time he turned it. This way just took longer but still worked fine. Hope this might help somebody.
Just moved from NW Washington and did business with two of Brim's stores, Lynden and Mount Vernon. The Mount Vernon store fixed my old Ford 1715 when it had a transmission issue. I had them fix everything else wrong and spent a pretty penny before it was done, but I ended up with a good reliable tractor that has had no issues since.
several years ago, I had the same problem with a 6'Howse cutter, 100 HP gear box. The gear box and spindle were fine but the plate was badly bent the cost for OEM replacement parts were more than I originally paid for the whole cutter. I did some shopping and Agri Supply was my answer. They had generic 15-spline pans at $300 - $400 range so I bought one but the outside diameter was smaller. Agri Supply had a great selection of blades; so I picked up a pair that were not expensive but would add up to 6' and it has worked great. Cost about $500. Use plenty of heat to get the old plate off.
I had to replace my gearbox last year, so of course I had to take off the stump-jumper(blade pan). No cement to work on; not even a floor jack at the time (just a li'l trolley jack). Had to do the bang-bang-bang. But that was the easy part. Getting the stump-jumper back ON , single-handedly, was the hard part. But with the help of the jack and some cinder blocks and pieces of 4x4s, I eventually got it. HINT: Remove the blades first, to reduce weight (Those blades are heavy!). The hardest part was getting the nut on (that secures the pan) as I had the pan in place, but couldn't quite get it high enough for the nut to engage the threads on the shaft. It was a balancing act to not let the pan fall, and just get it a hair higher in order to engage the first few threads. Once I got that nut started though, I was home-free! Forget having the dealer fix it- between the cost of the new pan, and labor...it'd probably be cheaper just to buy a new 'hog- or a used one. I feel sorry for the guy asking the question...that is a tough spot to be in. If i were him, if he as more popular model 'hog, I'd look around for a ragged-out cheap used one that I could salvage a replacement pan from...maybe place a wanted ad, as someone probably has one sitting around that they don't know what to do with. Being 62, and originally from the city, I felt a sense of accomplishment getting that job done, with minimal tools, and not hurting myself!
Good info, Mike. I just replaced my stump-jumper and the gear box last year. The original stump-jumper was worn out, rusty, and the blades didn't fit it right and didn't spin adequately, so the whole unit shook badly after cutting a sapling or something small. Yes, it could be dangerous if the unit isn't propped up right but once you get the old pan off, I put some grease on the shaft and the new goes on and comes back off pretty easily. And for those that don't know, balance your blades BEFORE you reinstall them after sharpening. That mower will shake you to pieces if they aren't really close in weight.
I broke the flimsy welds that holds stump jumper onto the shaft collar on my 25-year-old 6 ft. sidewinder last year it's a little heavier than the one you have there with it's four 4 1/2 wide by half inch thick cutting blades and 3/4 in flat steel plate stump jumper when I have problems underneath my hog like that I usually back the back end of the bush hog over something tall enough to take the tension off the turnbuckle to the point where I can screw the turnbuckle all the way tight and elevate the rear wheels on a foot and a half concrete slab and when I lift the bush hog then it is almost at a vertical slant sticking straight up in the air that way you can work on it standing up I usually run a safety chain or a rope from the back of the bush hog to the ROP ( just in case)
You gave really good advice when I was a kid I watched my stepdad fix a brush hog similar to what is going on and he didn’t get it fixed proper and caused the gearbox to go out
The best method to remove a stump jumper is to cut 2 pieces of hardwood firewood and cut them into wedges and place one piece on each side and alternate pound.
im thinking ill explore hydraulic options for removing the pan. maybe incorporating the rear remote. think ill first try 2 pieces of square tube, a few u bolts and a bottle jack.
The first thing I would do is take the cutter off the tractor. Flip it up on the front end and chain it to a tree or something stable. Once you have the castle nut off, you can remove the pan and take it to a welder if needed. It would be a good time to change or sharpen the blades
Now I understand your ugh, ugh, ugh at the start. I wanted to own a bush hog when I first got my tractor but I was advised against it due to the high number of rocks around my property.
Take your tractor loader grab it by the back by the wheel and set up on end so it's sitting on the three-point hookup. So you can work. Take a socket big breaker bar. Give it a good wallop with a sledgehammer.. the nut will come loose order a new stumpjumper and blades.. Nothing to it had a few of them off 👍
Princess Auto sold me a 1" impact wrench capable of over 1000 foot pounds of torque. It worked well on these nuts, after I duct taped the socket in case it grenaded from the strain. None of the Chinese sockets I have used for two decades has failed, incidentally. Where I got into trouble was when I used the same wrench to remove a lug stud from my Porsche Cayenne. it twisted the jammed stud off. The procedure on bush hogs is pretty simple, though. Pick the thing up with a heavy chain attached to a hook welded to your loader. Set it down so that the loader takes most of the load, but the machine sits on edge and doesn't spin around. Then have at it with the 1" impact wrench. Don't touch the nut when it comes loose for several minutes.
Taking my stump jumper off today for the first time (hopefully) in 20 years. I came across your video because I was curious how easy (not sure that's a good description) this job was. Thanks for the info. Time to dust off my sledgehammer
We have replaced ours not that hard. I raised it up on its side and secured it. Remove the blades first. Mine is a John Deere mx 6. Have a good night Mike. Thanks
A good enough metalworker can straighten it. It won't be cheap. It will probably be cheaper than a new pan. And, I'd turn the whole rotary cutter over onto railroad ties (so it's not on the gearbox) to work on it.
I like the dealer option but gotta say I would give it a go for the price too. Plus around here, it would sit at dealership until the gearbox froze up. I too would get it stood upright by lifting at tail assembly. Use chain and NOT rope…NOT ROPE NOT STRAP! Throw some 4x4 post upright as added support as well so there’s no way it can come back on ya. Remove the castle but….soak it with some PB Blaster and use a two prong hydraulic puller. The grabs will attach to the disc and the shaft of puller will push against the center stud….I would leave loosened but on the shaft but have it backed off to be flush with edge of threads during this process. Once you have it loose from the spindle stud then remove the nut and work it off….have a friend to help pull it from there but keep feet out of way in case ya drop it. You may be able to use a puller from local auto parts if they have a big one…if not a rental company may have em. The cheap desperate puller would be a 4x4 chained to edges of disc with enough clearance to put a small hydraulic jack between 4x4 and the stud and pump it. Will be awkward getting post secured to disc…. I’m just thinking out loud and HAVE NEVER TACKLED THIS JOB EITHER…. The level will be tricky but imagine a heat torch will be part of that game.
Option 4 - Think about picking up that new flail mower you've had your eye on... Personally, I would try to fix it myself because I'm still young enough to be stubborn (but nor for long...). If it didn't work or if I couldn't get the stump jumper off, then option 4 looks about right to me.
Every time I look out into my small field off to the side of my house I think about buying a new flail to replace the bush hog. It would make a better place for the kids to ride and play around in.
oh man! youre going to Mount Vernon! i just moved out of that town a few months ago. was living out on east fir at the bottom of the hill. id ask if youre ever going to visit Gillette but theres no tractor stores here that i know of. at least none that service tractors.
Gear boxes and blade pans aren't typically model specific, you can probably find a generic one that will work. The best way to work on either is to lean the mower up against a big log.
Soak in penetrant of choice remove castle nut load up on single axle trailer , do not strap down, find the roughest road around and drive it until jumper falls off and then make assessment of straightening are replacement
the way to tackle this repair is to remove the cutter from the tractor and pick it up from the tail wheel with a loader so it is vertical and your not under it , cut the pan on each side of the gear box shaft about 4" from the shaft then let it cool over night the heat and cooling will break the bond and it will slide right off and its a very good idea to replace the bottom seal or seals before putting the new pan on
I just noticed the ropps on the tractor you are using as a back drop in this video, I like the rack you have mounted to the ropps would you mind telling where you got it? Thanks a bunch Matt
Matt, that's a Tractor Caddy, an idea I came up with because of difficulties finding a place to store my chain saw. A local company builds it and you can order it here: asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy-tool-box/. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks! -Mike
I feel like a good machine shop could take the blade pan and with some heat straighten it in a press and then check it for wobble. I agree with others that the castle nut should not be tightened with high torque. That should have a tapered shaft...if you tighten that nut to 400 ft-lbs, i don't think you'd ever get it off in the future. Best of luck, but I wouldn't start at the dealer unless its under warranty...or you've talked to them and they agree they've seen it before. Bill
A good fabracator could cut that plate out and either straighten that out or replace it with a new piece. Also a body shop has toll machines that could possibly roll that . I just dont know if they can roll out that thick of steel
Thanks for checking on this. I'll try to include more details in the future. On 6/24, I'll be in Mount Vernon, WA @ 10 am and Pacific,WA @ 2 pm. On 6/25, Chehalis, WA @ 10 am and Rainier, OR @ 2 pm. Someone commented that I may have a lot of traffic between Mount Vernon and Pacific on a Friday. Hopefully, that all works out timing-wise.
@@TractorMike that's a pretty good haul from Mt Vernon to Pacific on a Friday in the early afternoon. Boeing shift change occurs about that time and really fouls up all the freeways, especially SR167 SB. Chehalis to Rainier, Ore is a breeze if you go through Longview, across the river to Rainier. Much shorter than going into Portland and backtracking.
Its fixable, I have done it on my 10ft cutter, I sheared the shaft off at the gearbox, the blades and pan were struck by the other set of blades, the damage was pretty extensive to the pan, but with a torch and BFH, it can be done....
PS. to my post below: Since the question-asker has a loader, after he gets the pan off...he could tip the 'hog on it's side to make it easier to get the new one on (and if he has anyone to help, this would actually be a piece of cake!). If he doesn't have an impact wrench to get the castleated nut off...a six-foot pipe as a cheater bar will work (But it won't work to get the blade nuts off....)
I just took off my old stump jumper and can't figure out why you would take off the castle nut just loosen about 3/8 inch the shaft is tapered then i cut about 10 2/4 wedges got under drove them in there was so much pressure the stump jumper was bowed down then got on top and started banging down with a t post i was able to spray lube in on top i used liquid wrench and went back and forth driving wedges banging on top took about 30 minute but it came loose and sounded like a gun went off but it was safe 3/8 movement on a tapered shaft is a mile the castle nut keep it from falling on me be safe guys
Yeah Mike don't think it Waze that much 😂 that's why you' stand it up on end it won't fall down on you. don't make it more complicated than it needs to be👍
It’s not that difficult of a job, get underneath it and take out the pin and nut. Leave on the blades. Put a pipe through the upper deck and hit it with a sledge hammer a couple times, spin it around and hit the second blade nut a couple times. The whole thing will drop on the ground. A new stump pan is about $150. Not the $1000 Mike mentioned.mother whole thing can be done in less than a hour. It’s not difficult.
Wth $1k??? I have a Woods HC60 and the stumper jumper pan broke in half and it cost like $40 from messicks. But then I found out the cross arm that connects the shaft to the two blades was slightly bent up which caused the pan to break, and it is 3/4” steel. That cross arm was only $185ish but is still on back order. I took my blades off first using the hole from the top of the deck. My stump jumper used the blade bolts. Sounds like your alls has that cross arm piece connected to the stump jumper together and is heavier steel. Yikes.
Oh yeah PB blaster did wonders to loosen those bolts, plus a 2’ cheater on my wrench. To get the cross arm off I had a 4’ piece of 1” round solid steel laying around that I just kept dropping from above. The book cautioned about supporting the cross arm underneath so it didn’t damage the gearbox, but I didn’t care at that point lol.
This is not that complicated. Hook a chain near the tail wheel. Stand the cutter upright. Chain it to something so it cannot fall. Remove stump jumper and proceed with repair . I can remove my 5 footer in about 20 minutes. I do this to sharpen the blades. .
Please educate me. They are hidden everywhere!! Perhaps speed was an issue here, idk, I’ve hit lots of rocks stumps and everything in between and not done that much damage. I think the only reason I had issues was someone may have bent my crossbar picking up the cutter with forks.
Pipe and sledge hammer - No. Pipe and a t-post driver - Yes.
You got that right, post drivers beat sledge hammers hands down! 👍
Well, now, that's a good idea if I ever heard one..
Mike
I have the squealer like yours. The bottom seal went out on mine. Being a retired state Highway Maintainer we were always changing gearbox seals so it wasn’t my first rodeo. I put a floor jack under the blade pan off to the side and removed the nut. I slide the jack to the center and it dropped down without any pounding. Changed the seal and reversed the process. If your viewer goes with option 1 he should look for signs of leaking and change the seal while he’s in that deep
We live on 20 acres, I have a tractor, a skid steer and lots of other things. Nothing makes you sicker than to tear up something but much to my wife's chagrin, IT WILL HAPPEN eventually. As someone in their late 50's, I am with Mike. There are times it is just better to pay someone. I call it the 3 hour rule, if I can't fix it myself in 3 hours (I will give myself a little more time if it is something completely new) I will pay someone. Mike is right, it is not worth injury and death to save a buck. Thank you Mike for your videos.
My mower, the castle nut had backwards thread. Just an FYI, check the threads before you start trying to take it loose.
First I would like to take this opportunity to thank Tractor Mike for all the assistance and knowledge he has imparted to me over the last few years, you sir are one excellent resource.
Having had to replace the lower seal on my 6 foot Brush Hog rapidly turned into an exercise in futility just trying to remove my cutters pan/blade assembly. The castle nut was no problem. However I tried pounding, prying, wedges, heat, cold, penetrating oil and combinations of all of these methods , to no avail trying to remove the pan/blade assembly. Then I read a post suggesting using 2 coupling nuts as screw jacks (with correct size bolts screwed in the end of each nut). First, find out how much space is available between top of the pan (just over where the blades run), to the bottom of the Brush Hog housing. I had about 2 inches (trying to remember). I Figured out the what the largest coupling nut, with 2 screws screwed in all the way (but not tight), that would fit into that space vertically. Put one of these jacks on each side of the pan, hand tightened them. Then took an open end wrench and started tightening the coupling nut on each side (quarter of a turn each time). Using coarse threads quickened this a little. I was absolutely amazed how easy the pan cam off (I thought I had broke the spine coupling, but not so).
Not to long after this discovery a friend needed to remove his Brush Hog pan, but because of space limitations over his pan he was able to do the same operation with just one coupling nut and one bolt on each side of his pan. He just had to keep repositioning the coupling nut about every time he turned it. This way just took longer but still worked fine. Hope this might help somebody.
Thank you for posting!
"a five foot pipe and a sledge hammer........" Man, Mike, I just love it when you talk "hi - tech."
Just moved from NW Washington and did business with two of Brim's stores, Lynden and Mount Vernon. The Mount Vernon store fixed my old Ford 1715 when it had a transmission issue. I had them fix everything else wrong and spent a pretty penny before it was done, but I ended up with a good reliable tractor that has had no issues since.
several years ago, I had the same problem with a 6'Howse cutter, 100 HP gear box. The gear box and spindle were fine but the plate was badly bent the cost for OEM replacement parts were more than I originally paid for the whole cutter. I did some shopping and Agri Supply was my answer. They had generic 15-spline pans at $300 - $400 range so I bought one but the outside diameter was smaller. Agri Supply had a great selection of blades; so I picked up a pair that were not expensive but would add up to 6' and it has worked great. Cost about $500. Use plenty of heat to get the old plate off.
If you have a good machine shop close to you they can fix it real easy
Agri Supply has generic stump jumpers for not a lot of money. If you grease the shaft before reassembly it comes off easier.
Mike, That was an excellent summary
Mike, that makes me appreciate living in an area that doesn't have rocks, however, hidden tree stumps are always a concern! Well done!
I use an ATV jack with the split pads...you can support the object, and have access to the Kastle nut between the pads.
I had to replace my gearbox last year, so of course I had to take off the stump-jumper(blade pan). No cement to work on; not even a floor jack at the time (just a li'l trolley jack). Had to do the bang-bang-bang. But that was the easy part. Getting the stump-jumper back ON , single-handedly, was the hard part. But with the help of the jack and some cinder blocks and pieces of 4x4s, I eventually got it. HINT: Remove the blades first, to reduce weight (Those blades are heavy!). The hardest part was getting the nut on (that secures the pan) as I had the pan in place, but couldn't quite get it high enough for the nut to engage the threads on the shaft. It was a balancing act to not let the pan fall, and just get it a hair higher in order to engage the first few threads. Once I got that nut started though, I was home-free! Forget having the dealer fix it- between the cost of the new pan, and labor...it'd probably be cheaper just to buy a new 'hog- or a used one. I feel sorry for the guy asking the question...that is a tough spot to be in. If i were him, if he as more popular model 'hog, I'd look around for a ragged-out cheap used one that I could salvage a replacement pan from...maybe place a wanted ad, as someone probably has one sitting around that they don't know what to do with. Being 62, and originally from the city, I felt a sense of accomplishment getting that job done, with minimal tools, and not hurting myself!
I look forward to meeting you on the 25th Mike!
Good info, Mike. I just replaced my stump-jumper and the gear box last year. The original stump-jumper was worn out, rusty, and the blades didn't fit it right and didn't spin adequately, so the whole unit shook badly after cutting a sapling or something small. Yes, it could be dangerous if the unit isn't propped up right but once you get the old pan off, I put some grease on the shaft and the new goes on and comes back off pretty easily.
And for those that don't know, balance your blades BEFORE you reinstall them after sharpening. That mower will shake you to pieces if they aren't really close in weight.
I used a torque multiplier to remove my castle nut once. Worked great
I broke the flimsy welds that holds stump jumper onto the shaft collar on my 25-year-old 6 ft. sidewinder last year it's a little heavier than the one you have there with it's four 4 1/2 wide by half inch thick cutting blades and 3/4 in flat steel plate stump jumper when I have problems underneath my hog like that I usually back the back end of the bush hog over something tall enough to take the tension off the turnbuckle to the point where I can screw the turnbuckle all the way tight and elevate the rear wheels on a foot and a half concrete slab and when I lift the bush hog then it is almost at a vertical slant sticking straight up in the air that way you can work on it standing up I usually run a safety chain or a rope from the back of the bush hog to the ROP ( just in case)
If you need to use the pipe and sledge method perhaps the person holding the pipe could hold it with a long pipe wrench or something similar.
3 ft pipe... because the 5 is just too tall...
You gave really good advice when I was a kid I watched my stepdad fix a brush hog similar to what is going on and he didn’t get it fixed proper and caused the gearbox to go out
The best method to remove a stump jumper is to cut 2 pieces of hardwood firewood and cut them into wedges and place one piece on each side and alternate pound.
im thinking ill explore hydraulic options for removing the pan. maybe incorporating the rear remote.
think ill first try 2 pieces of square tube, a few u bolts and a bottle jack.
Broke a blade pan on a Ford brush hog. It does look good sitting on the stone wall outback. I replaced it with a bush hog brand
The first thing I would do is take the cutter off the tractor. Flip it up on the front end and chain it to a tree or something stable. Once you have the castle nut off, you can remove the pan and take it to a welder if needed. It would be a good time to change or sharpen the blades
Hope we can see you and you enjoy your trip when you come up to the PNW.
As usual, some really great info!
Now I understand your ugh, ugh, ugh at the start. I wanted to own a bush hog when I first got my tractor but I was advised against it due to the high number of rocks around my property.
Take your tractor loader grab it by the back by the wheel and set up on end so it's sitting on the three-point hookup. So you can work. Take a socket big breaker bar. Give it a good wallop with a sledgehammer.. the nut will come loose order a new stumpjumper and blades.. Nothing to it had a few of them off 👍
Princess Auto sold me a 1" impact wrench capable of over 1000 foot pounds of torque. It worked well on these nuts, after I duct taped the socket in case it grenaded from the strain. None of the Chinese sockets I have used for two decades has failed, incidentally. Where I got into trouble was when I used the same wrench to remove a lug stud from my Porsche Cayenne. it twisted the jammed stud off. The procedure on bush hogs is pretty simple, though. Pick the thing up with a heavy chain attached to a hook welded to your loader. Set it down so that the loader takes most of the load, but the machine sits on edge and doesn't spin around. Then have at it with the 1" impact wrench. Don't touch the nut when it comes loose for several minutes.
Taking my stump jumper off today for the first time (hopefully) in 20 years. I came across your video because I was curious how easy (not sure that's a good description) this job was. Thanks for the info. Time to dust off my sledgehammer
We have replaced ours not that hard. I raised it up on its side and secured it. Remove the blades first. Mine is a John Deere mx 6. Have a good night Mike. Thanks
A good enough metalworker can straighten it.
It won't be cheap. It will probably be cheaper than a new pan.
And, I'd turn the whole rotary cutter over onto railroad ties (so it's not on the gearbox) to work on it.
I like the dealer option but gotta say I would give it a go for the price too. Plus around here, it would sit at dealership until the gearbox froze up.
I too would get it stood upright by lifting at tail assembly. Use chain and NOT rope…NOT ROPE NOT STRAP! Throw some 4x4 post upright as added support as well so there’s no way it can come back on ya.
Remove the castle but….soak it with some PB Blaster and use a two prong hydraulic puller. The grabs will attach to the disc and the shaft of puller will push against the center stud….I would leave loosened but on the shaft but have it backed off to be flush with edge of threads during this process.
Once you have it loose from the spindle stud then remove the nut and work it off….have a friend to help pull it from there but keep feet out of way in case ya drop it.
You may be able to use a puller from local auto parts if they have a big one…if not a rental company may have em.
The cheap desperate puller would be a 4x4 chained to edges of disc with enough clearance to put a small hydraulic jack between 4x4 and the stud and pump it. Will be awkward getting post secured to disc….
I’m just thinking out loud and HAVE NEVER TACKLED THIS JOB EITHER….
The level will be tricky but imagine a heat torch will be part of that game.
Option 4 - Think about picking up that new flail mower you've had your eye on...
Personally, I would try to fix it myself because I'm still young enough to be stubborn (but nor for long...). If it didn't work or if I couldn't get the stump jumper off, then option 4 looks about right to me.
I'm stubborn - but not for long.
Contradiction in terms, or what?
Every time I look out into my small field off to the side of my house I think about buying a new flail to replace the bush hog. It would make a better place for the kids to ride and play around in.
thank you Mike, LOVE your work!!
oh man! youre going to Mount Vernon! i just moved out of that town a few months ago. was living out on east fir at the bottom of the hill. id ask if youre ever going to visit Gillette but theres no tractor stores here that i know of. at least none that service tractors.
Gear boxes and blade pans aren't typically model specific, you can probably find a generic one that will work. The best way to work on either is to lean the mower up against a big log.
Wouldn’t you want to take the blades off first? Careful application of a torch would also help.
Air hammer/chisel works pretty ok some times too!
Soak in penetrant of choice remove castle nut load up on single axle trailer , do not strap down, find the roughest road around and drive it until jumper falls off and then make assessment of straightening are replacement
Hi Mike! I wondered why you were wearing a Brim hat! I'll see you in Chehalis on the 25th!
I thought about contacting you to see if you lived somewhere near there. Can't wait to get out there and away from this humidity! See you soon!
the way to tackle this repair is to remove the cutter from the tractor and pick it up from the tail wheel with a loader so it is vertical and your not under it , cut the pan on each side of the gear box shaft about 4" from the shaft then let it cool over night the heat and cooling will break the bond and it will slide right off and its a very good idea to replace the bottom seal or seals before putting the new pan on
I just noticed the ropps on the tractor you are using as a back drop in this video, I like the rack you have mounted to the ropps would you mind telling where you got it?
Thanks a bunch
Matt
Matt, that's a Tractor Caddy, an idea I came up with because of difficulties finding a place to store my chain saw. A local company builds it and you can order it here: asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy-tool-box/. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks! -Mike
I feel like a good machine shop could take the blade pan and with some heat straighten it in a press and then check it for wobble.
I agree with others that the castle nut should not be tightened with high torque. That should have a tapered shaft...if you tighten that nut to 400 ft-lbs, i don't think you'd ever get it off in the future.
Best of luck, but I wouldn't start at the dealer unless its under warranty...or you've talked to them and they agree they've seen it before.
Bill
Good information
There’s some things that are worth paying the money to have the dealer fix it.
A good fabracator could cut that plate out and either straighten that out or replace it with a new piece. Also a body shop has toll machines that could possibly roll that . I just dont know if they can roll out that thick of steel
Length of steel pipe is an essential tool 😊
Another tool you need is patience, but it can be done.
Mike, I'll add the Chehalis meet/greet to my calendar and try to make it down to meet you.
Tom, sounds good, did I even get close to pronouncing Chehalis right?
@@TractorMike uh Mike, you never mentioned which 4 dealers you would be at. I went to the show notes to see if you were going to be anywhere near me.
Thanks for checking on this. I'll try to include more details in the future.
On 6/24, I'll be in Mount Vernon, WA @ 10 am and Pacific,WA @ 2 pm.
On 6/25, Chehalis, WA @ 10 am and Rainier, OR @ 2 pm.
Someone commented that I may have a lot of traffic between Mount Vernon and Pacific on a Friday. Hopefully, that all works out timing-wise.
@@TractorMike that's a pretty good haul from Mt Vernon to Pacific on a Friday in the early afternoon. Boeing shift change occurs about that time and really fouls up all the freeways, especially SR167 SB. Chehalis to Rainier, Ore is a breeze if you go through Longview, across the river to Rainier. Much shorter than going into Portland and backtracking.
Thanks for this information!
Its fixable, I have done it on my 10ft cutter, I sheared the shaft off at the gearbox, the blades and pan were struck by the other set of blades, the damage was pretty extensive to the pan, but with a torch and BFH, it can be done....
PS. to my post below: Since the question-asker has a loader, after he gets the pan off...he could tip the 'hog on it's side to make it easier to get the new one on (and if he has anyone to help, this would actually be a piece of cake!). If he doesn't have an impact wrench to get the castleated nut off...a six-foot pipe as a cheater bar will work (But it won't work to get the blade nuts off....)
Hey Mike I am trying to tighten the bolts for the gear box do you have any suggestions on how to do that without taking off the stump jumper
Are they turning? Ugh! Get a buddy to hold them (after securely blocking up the cutter) or tack weld the heads.
@@TractorMike ah thanks tac welding is a great idea
I just took off my old stump jumper and can't figure out why you would take off the castle nut just loosen about 3/8 inch
the shaft is tapered then i cut about 10 2/4 wedges got under drove them in there was so much pressure the stump jumper was bowed down then got on top and started banging down with a t post i was able to spray lube in on top i used liquid wrench and went back and forth
driving wedges banging on top took about 30 minute but it came loose and sounded like a gun went off but it was safe 3/8 movement on a tapered shaft is a mile the castle nut keep it from falling on me be safe guys
You just said you never have taken one of them off but you're explaining how to do it 🤔
I agree I'm 67. Dealer job
Yeah Mike don't think it Waze that much 😂 that's why you' stand it up on end it won't fall down on you. don't make it more complicated than it needs to be👍
Back when you made good content videos
And always pull the bushhog off the tractor and chain to a post or tree.
It’s not that difficult of a job, get underneath it and take out the pin and nut. Leave on the blades. Put a pipe through the upper deck and hit it with a sledge hammer a couple times, spin it around and hit the second blade nut a couple times. The whole thing will drop on the ground. A new stump pan is about $150. Not the $1000 Mike mentioned.mother whole thing can be done in less than a hour. It’s not difficult.
👍👍👍
My bet is that the gearbox shaft is bent
Wth $1k??? I have a Woods HC60 and the stumper jumper pan broke in half and it cost like $40 from messicks. But then I found out the cross arm that connects the shaft to the two blades was slightly bent up which caused the pan to break, and it is 3/4” steel. That cross arm was only $185ish but is still on back order. I took my blades off first using the hole from the top of the deck. My stump jumper used the blade bolts. Sounds like your alls has that cross arm piece connected to the stump jumper together and is heavier steel. Yikes.
Oh yeah PB blaster did wonders to loosen those bolts, plus a 2’ cheater on my wrench. To get the cross arm off I had a 4’ piece of 1” round solid steel laying around that I just kept dropping from above. The book cautioned about supporting the cross arm underneath so it didn’t damage the gearbox, but I didn’t care at that point lol.
This is not that complicated. Hook a chain near the tail wheel. Stand the cutter upright. Chain it to something so it cannot fall. Remove stump jumper and proceed with repair . I can remove my 5 footer in about 20 minutes. I do this to sharpen the blades.
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Why would you remove stump jumper to sharpen blades?? There is a hole on top to get socket down to remove blade bolts.
If it is removed annually, taking it off isn't too bad.
rusted in place for 20 years... it's a battle.
This is the way to do it. I have taken mine off several times without any power tools.
You right it’s not a good idea let the dealer fixes it.
Trade it off!
Pay the 1,060 and learn how to not run over rocks
Please educate me. They are hidden everywhere!! Perhaps speed was an issue here, idk, I’ve hit lots of rocks stumps and everything in between and not done that much damage. I think the only reason I had issues was someone may have bent my crossbar picking up the cutter with forks.
Take it to an auction sale then go buy a new cutter.
If you laughed your ass off at Mikes "bang" cameo like this comment LOL we don't deserve tractor Mike.