I just have one suggestion. By the way great video. Use a 3" extension or none at all. Believe it or not the longer extension is causing some torq to be be diminished. You will find the impact driver hits harder and will turn the nut faster without the added extension.
Those of you without an air compressor, a Milwaukee 1/2 high torque with a tekton 3/4 adaptor and extension of impact duty with a good 1-11/16 6 point impact socket will do the trick.
Yep I have a Milwaukee M18 fuel 1/2 impact wrench with the friction ring. It will break all blade bolts in my 15 ft Land Pride mowers. Still can't believe how strong this impact is. Like you have to use a half to three quarter adapter and extension for the 1 11/16 socket for blade bolt nuts
No, thank you for sharing this information. You are a professor in YT university, you deserve to be paid. 👍 I have the exact same mower and it was relatively new, and it broke off the exact same way (never found it 😳)
I keep two sets of blades for my Bushhog SQ160, and about every 50 hours (once per year on average) I remove one set and replace it with a newly dressed set. I don't have the problem of having to remove a blade set that's not seen a wrench in years.... I follow pretty much your protocols (even cleaning up the bolts, nuts, and lock washers on my wire wheel), except I use a 3/4" drive socket and extension with a breaker bar augmented with a 5' galvanized pipe as a cheater bar. The specs on my cutter indicate the torque on the blade bolts should be about 600 lbs., and I think I come pretty close in putting my weight into it when tightening the blade bolts. Doing it this way for 20 years and have never had a problem, and I have the assurance that my cutter has the advantage of blades that are in relatively good shape. It gives me a cut that for the most part rivals a finish mower for my grassy areas.
Chrome extentions and sockets are much harder than impact rated tools. I'm not worried about them breaking but they will sure wear out an impact anvil quicker!!
Really good. I have a real old bonafide Bush Hog same setup... I had to take it to a place that used a 10 ft pipe to get my bolts loose... then use a sledge hammer to get the bolts off. smh. wow. Anti-seize might be a good option when reassembling... maybe.
According to the Land Pride manual, the lock nuts should be replaced with new, and torqued to 450 ft-lbs, otherwise there is a risk of throwing a blade.
Only time I've replaced blade bolt were if the slot on bolt stripped and that's only happened once. Ive had since 2007 two Land pride 5615 250 up splitter. One 3615 and one 3710. Bit I can guarantee your Land pride or Bushog dealer would love you to replace them each time you sharpen.
@@ksr9t They’d love for you to let them torque those bolts to 450 ft lbs too. I’ll bet most of them don’t have a torque wrench to torque them with either. We’d be lucky if they have a 3/4 drive impact, most will have what their mechanics brought with them when they hired on.
Great suggestion with the 4X4. I would suggest leaving the nut on the top of the bolt before pounding it out. If you pound just the bolt, you run the risk of damaging the bolt making it hard or impossible to put the nut back on.
Except he used a brass rod, which would dent before the threads, but I agree. I'd of hit the bolt regardless. Better safe than sorry. Yet, I wonder if you left the nut on, and the bolt dropped below the keyway, then you need a pipe wrench on the nut, calling for another person. hummm. I just purchased one of these 1872s, so I'll soon find out.
@@kiheidude Heck ya!!!! I got this 4' long torque wrench! It's do 600 ft lbs. I have 3/4" socket and ratchet set, so now I can be scientific about it. Jeez, I bought a Kubota Mz7060 last July to compliment my excavator, and at 63, I'm getting my second wind. Loving this stuff!
@@homesculptor Ha! I’m with ya Pat. At 64 I’m constantly working on the tractor, mini ex, skidsteer, and backhoe. I’m addition to the big socket and wrenches, I’ve found a torque multiplier helpful.
@@kiheidude Yeah, bent and sprung the door on my excavator the other day, it's in the driveway. I used the blade and a steel bar to mold it back straight. You can't eve tell, and I didn't break the glass!!! lol. Got rain and snow today [in california] so a bit sidelined.
Good video. I don't have an air compressor and need to change out my blades on my Land Pride 1860. The manual says to torque to 450 lbs so I guess I need a bigger torque wrench! :(
I have an older 8’ landpride cutter. I put anti seize on my hardware so it comes off easier next time. My deck has a 4” access hole, not sure why yours is so small. My pan is oval and not round like yours.
So your blades are supposed to be able to move around. My blades are loose like his was and I thought that was a bad thing. Thats why I'm on this video to find out
I have a John Deere MX-6. It says in manual the nuts need to be torqued to 625 fps. Manual shows using a torque multiplier. The blades are much larger than those in this video. No idea how it’s going to work out. This will be my first time changing them.
You can, but usually getting the dishpan off the spline shaft is a huge ordeal. A friend of mine who's quite skilled mechanically had to replace his damaged dishpan and it took him and several helpers two solid days to get the thing off.
Put anti seize on the bolt threads then put the weight of the whole cutter on that one bolt with the 4X4 under it holding the bolt in. The impact and the brush hog’s weight on that bolt will make it tighten right up. I did two that didn’t have a spline on the bolt shank that way today, went right on and got tight quick.
No spacers, just the bolts that came with the mower. As you can (hopefully) see in the video, the bolt has a shoulder below the threads. This shoulder fits against the dishpan and keeps the bolt head from closing down against the blade. If you tighten down the nut with no blade, there should be a space left between the bolt head and the dishpan. If your blades are binding, it sounds like a mismatch between the bolts and blades, i.e. the blades are thicker than the space left by the bolts. So either the bolts aren't the originals and don't match the original specs or the blades are thicker than the original ones.
As the man said you have issues with the blades or the keyed bolts. Check the blades to make sure they are correct. Also take a wire wheel to the blades around the bolt hole. Also remember to weigh the blades if you just sharpen them. They have to be within 1-1/2 ounces of eachother. And a 4 inch grinder with a flap wheel of 80 grit does wonders for sharpening
Because the blade is long and relatively thin and narrow it will have much more tendency to flutter and it is also applying much more axial bending and shearing forces to the blade pin and to the metal surrounding the pin or bolt hole. I seriously question the design choices of the manufacturer. Many brush mowers have much larger discs and shorter but thicker cutters making them more resistant to abuse.
100% true. If you weight balance them it's not an issue, I cut 40 acres with the same model twice a year for an nrcs program and it works fine even though same blades for 6+ years. They break if they are allowed to be out of balance.
@@jakehennessy7 i make my own and weigh and match them to 1/100 grams, bit of an overkill, but its not much extra effort and my scale is that accurate so why not. 😏
I'm calling BS, I tried an electric impact, air impact, 2' breaker bar, then add a 2' cheater pipe, these things do not break free as easy as one might think. I might have to call a local garage, these nuts are way to tight!!
3/4 air impact will just them loose if your compressor puts out enough air. If you do this regularly you may want to invest in a Milwaukee M18 fuel with friction ring impact. You'll have to see it to believe it but it will break loose those blade bolts. I didn't it either till I tried it
@@ksr9t we have one and it wouldn’t break either loose. Used a half inch 30” long snapon cheater bar with a 2 foot extension bar to break one loose (which the Milwaukee finished up) but the bar broke on the second nut. Used a torch to heat it up short of red hot but still no dice until I quenched it with the garden hose. That did the trick and the Milwaukee could then handle it, but barely.
Sometimes it depends on how long they’ve been on there and how much rain water goes through that access hole and collects in the stump jumper (My parts manual calls it that). If the bolts stay submerged in water, and they’ve never been off since new, they can be a real bugger to get loose. I had to cut both of mine off with a torch through the access hole the first time I changed the blades. The thing was about 25 or 30 years old then and they had never been off. My Dad bought it new, so I know the history on it. Always put anti - seize on the bolt threads when you put it back together. That’ll make the nuts come off next time.
I am sorry Cliff, but you work too hard and have too many situations to allow trouble and and possible injury of falling pieces of steel. I recently rebuilt my King Kutter Bush Hog. Not having assistants to help, I put a chain on the tail wheel and the loader of my tractor. Lifting the mower from the tail wheel to a point where the mower can be set on the 3 point tree. Lowered the loader down to rest on the wheel structure. An additional chain was attached to disallow any movement or a chance to falling. Place in park and block the wheels on the tractor. With the top and the bottom of the mower vertical, access to both is simple! I used my socket and breaker bar with a pipe to remove both blade pivot bolt nuts. With the mower vertical, the knives and bolts were retained hanging the stump jumper assembly. I could remove each blade, one at a time. I did have one bolt was installed with the key not in the keyway forcing me to use a brass rod and drive it out.. Then I removed the castle nut. One good whack with he brass rod against the center shaft (SLIGHT TAPER)the stump jumper was loose and removed it. Nothing fell to the ground or on anyone. Removed the gearbox to rebuild... Complete, mounted back on and put the stump jumper back on. Put the bolts of the knives, in the correct hole, with the key in the keyway. Walked around the mower to the access port. Placed the washer and nut back on. Tightened the nut on both blades. I am sorry for getting wordy... My point was that the mower can be set in a safe working angle to do the job for one person and locate all parts correctly, with out assistance, or the parts falling to result in possible injury.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
"i love teaching. I love sharing" We need more people like you in the world.
Thank you. I like the honesty- putting on the blade backwards is usually what I do!
I just have one suggestion. By the way great video. Use a 3" extension or none at all. Believe it or not the longer extension is causing some torq to be be diminished. You will find the impact driver hits harder and will turn the nut faster without the added extension.
Very informative. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It looks like your channel has grown nicely in two years!
Those of you without an air compressor, a Milwaukee 1/2 high torque with a tekton 3/4 adaptor and extension of impact duty with a good 1-11/16 6 point impact socket will do the trick.
Yep I have a Milwaukee M18 fuel 1/2 impact wrench with the friction ring. It will break all blade bolts in my 15 ft Land Pride mowers. Still can't believe how strong this impact is. Like you have to use a half to three quarter adapter and extension for the 1 11/16 socket for blade bolt nuts
well done , wonderful , thank you , sharing with others.
No, thank you for sharing this information.
You are a professor in YT university, you deserve to be paid. 👍
I have the exact same mower and it was relatively new, and it broke off the exact same way (never found it 😳)
I keep two sets of blades for my Bushhog SQ160, and about every 50 hours (once per year on average) I remove one set and replace it with a newly dressed set. I don't have the problem of having to remove a blade set that's not seen a wrench in years.... I follow pretty much your protocols (even cleaning up the bolts, nuts, and lock washers on my wire wheel), except I use a 3/4" drive socket and extension with a breaker bar augmented with a 5' galvanized pipe as a cheater bar. The specs on my cutter indicate the torque on the blade bolts should be about 600 lbs., and I think I come pretty close in putting my weight into it when tightening the blade bolts. Doing it this way for 20 years and have never had a problem, and I have the assurance that my cutter has the advantage of blades that are in relatively good shape. It gives me a cut that for the most part rivals a finish mower for my grassy areas.
Thank you Sir. Time to replace the blades on mine for the first time.
Good luck! The impact wrench is really the key.
Chrome extentions and sockets are much harder than impact rated tools. I'm not worried about them breaking but they will sure wear out an impact anvil quicker!!
Really good. I have a real old bonafide Bush Hog same setup... I had to take it to a place that used a 10 ft pipe to get my bolts loose... then use a sledge hammer to get the bolts off. smh. wow. Anti-seize might be a good option when reassembling... maybe.
Great vid... Another tip for putting the bolt back in... Small Hydraulic jack...
I'm also notorious for mounting them right side up, but in backwards rotation. They cut much better when the cutting edges are forward.
According to the Land Pride manual, the lock nuts should be replaced with new, and torqued to 450 ft-lbs, otherwise there is a risk of throwing a blade.
Only time I've replaced blade bolt were if the slot on bolt stripped and that's only happened once. Ive had since 2007 two Land pride 5615 250 up splitter. One 3615 and one 3710.
Bit I can guarantee your Land pride or Bushog dealer would love you to replace them each time you sharpen.
@@ksr9t
They’d love for you to let them torque those bolts to 450 ft lbs too. I’ll bet most of them don’t have a torque wrench to torque them with either. We’d be lucky if they have a 3/4 drive impact, most will have what their mechanics brought with them when they hired on.
Great suggestion with the 4X4. I would suggest leaving the nut on the top of the bolt before pounding it out. If you pound just the bolt, you run the risk of damaging the bolt making it hard or impossible to put the nut back on.
Except he used a brass rod, which would dent before the threads, but I agree. I'd of hit the bolt regardless. Better safe than sorry. Yet, I wonder if you left the nut on, and the bolt dropped below the keyway, then you need a pipe wrench on the nut, calling for another person. hummm. I just purchased one of these 1872s, so I'll soon find out.
@@homesculptor Changing blades on a brush hog is always an experience in manliness. LOL.
@@kiheidude Heck ya!!!! I got this 4' long torque wrench! It's do 600 ft lbs. I have 3/4" socket and ratchet set, so now I can be scientific about it. Jeez, I bought a Kubota Mz7060 last July to compliment my excavator, and at 63, I'm getting my second wind. Loving this stuff!
@@homesculptor Ha! I’m with ya Pat. At 64 I’m constantly working on the tractor, mini ex, skidsteer, and backhoe. I’m addition to the big socket and wrenches, I’ve found a torque multiplier helpful.
@@kiheidude Yeah, bent and sprung the door on my excavator the other day, it's in the driveway. I used the blade and a steel bar to mold it back straight. You can't eve tell, and I didn't break the glass!!! lol. Got rain and snow today [in california] so a bit sidelined.
Use the shortest length extension to get the most out of the impact gun
Very helpful, thank-you!
I have a 4' Cutter that doesn't have that Hole in the top... but the pan isn't as big either
Good video. I don't have an air compressor and need to change out my blades on my Land Pride 1860. The manual says to torque to 450 lbs so I guess I need a bigger torque wrench! :(
Thank you ! God Bless !!!
I have an older 8’ landpride cutter. I put anti seize on my hardware so it comes off easier next time. My deck has a 4” access hole, not sure why yours is so small. My pan is oval and not round like yours.
So your blades are supposed to be able to move around. My blades are loose like his was and I thought that was a bad thing. Thats why I'm on this video to find out
same 😂
My bolt had a big capital "L" stamped on the top. Now why on Earth would a Left Hand thread be used on a bolt which seems to used as a hinge?
Great video! Thank you!
I have a John Deere MX-6. It says in manual the nuts need to be torqued to 625 fps. Manual shows using a torque multiplier. The blades are much larger than those in this video. No idea how it’s going to work out. This will be my first time changing them.
Is it possible just to drop the whole dishpan assembly and replace the blades on the bench?
You can, but usually getting the dishpan off the spline shaft is a huge ordeal. A friend of mine who's quite skilled mechanically had to replace his damaged dishpan and it took him and several helpers two solid days to get the thing off.
I wish there was a three thumbs up icon. I'd use it. Well done!
Thank you!
That spline breaks off frequently then hard to keep the bolt from turning
Put anti seize on the bolt threads then put the weight of the whole cutter on that one bolt with the 4X4 under it holding the bolt in. The impact and the brush hog’s weight on that bolt will make it tighten right up. I did two that didn’t have a spline on the bolt shank that way today, went right on and got tight quick.
Next time please show us how to remove the stump jumper. Thx.👍🏻
Are the blades only available through Landpride?
Great video! Did you use any blade spacers? My new blade won't swing. What do I need to do?
Thanks
No spacers, just the bolts that came with the mower. As you can (hopefully) see in the video, the bolt has a shoulder below the threads. This shoulder fits against the dishpan and keeps the bolt head from closing down against the blade. If you tighten down the nut with no blade, there should be a space left between the bolt head and the dishpan. If your blades are binding, it sounds like a mismatch between the bolts and blades, i.e. the blades are thicker than the space left by the bolts. So either the bolts aren't the originals and don't match the original specs or the blades are thicker than the original ones.
As the man said you have issues with the blades or the keyed bolts. Check the blades to make sure they are correct. Also take a wire wheel to the blades around the bolt hole. Also remember to weigh the blades if you just sharpen them. They have to be within 1-1/2 ounces of eachother. And a 4 inch grinder with a flap wheel of 80 grit does wonders for sharpening
My access hole on the top of the deck does not align with my nut. I have a Frontier RC2072. Does anyone have any ideas??
Is it counter lock or counter clockwise tightening ?????
I really don't remember but I'm pretty sure is was a standard thread, i.e. clockwise to tighten
@@CliffsGarage correct, as I just did them today.
Never put a mower on a lift to pull blades to sharpen
Why not?
Because the blade is long and relatively thin and narrow it will have much more tendency to flutter and it is also applying much more axial bending and shearing forces to the blade pin and to the metal surrounding the pin or bolt hole. I seriously question the design choices of the manufacturer. Many brush mowers have much larger discs and shorter but thicker cutters making them more resistant to abuse.
100% true. If you weight balance them it's not an issue, I cut 40 acres with the same model twice a year for an nrcs program and it works fine even though same blades for 6+ years. They break if they are allowed to be out of balance.
@@jakehennessy7 i make my own and weigh and match them to 1/100 grams, bit of an overkill, but its not much extra effort and my scale is that accurate so why not. 😏
I just bought that make/ model, how old is yours as I see cracks on the dishpan?
It's only about two years old but I've been *very* rough on it. Replacing the dishpan is on my to-do list.
@@CliffsGarage if you have KTAC on your Kubota stuff, you can have them pay for the replacement. They’ll cover labor and all.
The blades will lift from centrifugal force so they will not cut where they hang.
Does that matter, Hell no just saying
13.8k in April, 2024
Where did you buy your blades?
Local Land Pride dealer
I'm calling BS, I tried an electric impact, air impact, 2' breaker bar, then add a 2' cheater pipe, these things do not break free as easy as one might think. I might have to call a local garage, these nuts are way to tight!!
3/4 air impact will just them loose if your compressor puts out enough air. If you do this regularly you may want to invest in a Milwaukee M18 fuel with friction ring impact. You'll have to see it to believe it but it will break loose those blade bolts. I didn't it either till I tried it
@@ksr9t we have one and it wouldn’t break either loose. Used a half inch 30” long snapon cheater bar with a 2 foot extension bar to break one loose (which the Milwaukee finished up) but the bar broke on the second nut. Used a torch to heat it up short of red hot but still no dice until I quenched it with the garden hose. That did the trick and the Milwaukee could then handle it, but barely.
Sometimes it depends on how long they’ve been on there and how much rain water goes through that access hole and collects in the stump jumper (My parts manual calls it that). If the bolts stay submerged in water, and they’ve never been off since new, they can be a real bugger to get loose. I had to cut both of mine off with a torch through the access hole the first time I changed the blades. The thing was about 25 or 30 years old then and they had never been off. My Dad bought it new, so I know the history on it.
Always put anti - seize on the bolt threads when you put it back together. That’ll make the nuts come off next time.
I am sorry Cliff, but you work too hard and have too many situations to allow trouble and and possible injury of falling pieces of steel. I recently rebuilt my King Kutter Bush Hog. Not having assistants to help, I put a chain on the tail wheel and the loader of my tractor. Lifting the mower from the tail wheel to a point where the mower can be set on the 3 point tree. Lowered the loader down to rest on the wheel structure. An additional chain was attached to disallow any movement or a chance to falling. Place in park and block the wheels on the tractor. With the top and the bottom of the mower vertical, access to both is simple! I used my socket and breaker bar with a pipe to remove both blade pivot bolt nuts. With the mower vertical, the knives and bolts were retained hanging the stump jumper assembly. I could remove each blade, one at a time. I did have one bolt was installed with the key not in the keyway forcing me to use a brass rod and drive it out.. Then I removed the castle nut. One good whack with he brass rod against the center shaft (SLIGHT TAPER)the stump jumper was loose and removed it. Nothing fell to the ground or on anyone. Removed the gearbox to rebuild... Complete, mounted back on and put the stump jumper back on. Put the bolts of the knives, in the correct hole, with the key in the keyway. Walked around the mower to the access port. Placed the washer and nut back on. Tightened the nut on both blades. I am sorry for getting wordy... My point was that the mower can be set in a safe working angle to do the job for one person and locate all parts correctly, with out assistance, or the parts falling to result in possible injury.