Cool i bought that little wooden box of blades and handles a couple of times. While the boxes themselves are long gone. I still have all the handles and those different blades. I use the number 11 blade exclusively, and the saw blade which i have in two different tooth sizes course and fine. Over the years i picked up a couple of boxes of 100 number 11 blades. The plastic box i gone through half the blades, as you remove a new blade you can then put the used blade into the other end or side. The box of 100 blades ive never opened. Also no one every explained what what the different blades were for, the chisel blades self explantory but i wondered why so many different angled sharp pointed blades. Thanks for the explanation.
Up the Irons! I have hobby knife handles loaded with a #11 X-acto blade, a #11 scalpel blade, and a #15 scalpel blade. All three have their uses. I would highly recommend a handle that will not roll, or putting something on a round handle to prevent it from rolling. Round handles easily roll off of your work area and will inevitably fall point first aimed towards your foot, or so I have heard.
Up the irons! Yes, the rolling handle can be a problem, and many of us of have had accidents with them. Lots of cool handles out there designed not to roll, or there are stoppers that slip on the ends to keep them from rolling. Our go-to is the Tamiya knife handle, but there are many out there that fit the bill. Thanks for watching!
@@FineScaleModelermagazine There is a gentleman named Phillip (I cannot recall his last name) who makes wooden handles by hand for X-acto and scalpel blades. I typically see him at the IPMS Nationals, and I proudly own four of his handles. These are both ergonomic and works of art.
I have two number one handles and a number 3 handle. I use them exactly as you describe. The #1 handle is my go to for fine work. The #3 handle is what I use when I am trying to do larger tasks, and tasks that require more force or leverage. And my second #3 handle is what I use for scribing panel lines. I take old blades and retire them to the second #3 handle. I use a dull #11 blade for scribing.
I like a No 11 in Fiskars triangular handle, it don't roll. I have two, one for hack work (which gets honed so it lasts longer) and another for the fine stuff (which I replace more often). An SMS ceramic scraper blade in an old Exacto handle and a thin razor saw blade in another old handle. I find thin chisel blades handy for removing raised detail when replacing it with photoetch. Band-aids a nice touch and a reminder of past lapses of concentration! As for the cars, check out the one at 18:57, the model of the "Artist's Impression" of a vehicle design. You don't say this generally in scale modelling but it looks realistically 2 dimensional! Excellent!
To stop my knives from rolling ofbthe bench, I place a cable tie aroundbthe top part of the handle, andbthat stops it rolling around, I use mainly the # 11 blade.
I use the small chisel blade for cutting photo etch from photo etch sprue. I resharpen it a bit each hobby session and one chisel blade can last a long time. The flat tip lets me cut clean and close to the etched parts. I use a glass cutting board for this work to keep pieces from bending or warping while cutting, and I cover the piece I’m cutting with a small flat piece of metal to keep them from pinging away into the carpet.
Entertaining and informative. I have 4 x #1 handles, but they are permanently fitted with small drills .3mm = 1.5 thou and the next sizes up I also have 2 retractable scalpel handles permanently fitted with #15 small curve and #15a small pointy blades and I fixed scalpel handle permanently fitted with #10 curved blade (there is a documented case study of this falling off the workbench and piercing my trousers and inflicting a puncture wound in my leg [fully recovered thank you]). I find the retractable handles do not allow me to exert as much force as I want with this blade and so I put up with the danger. on occasion I will use a #11 pointed blade
with being in the UK the knives and blades i use are Swann Morton Scalpels and blades which instead of being put in chucks instead they slide onto the handles so you have to be careful when replacing the blades when the either get dull or damaged so as not to have any accidents
Hi Paul, we have scalpels here in the U.S., too, but they're less prevalent in the hobby than the dedicated hobby knives. And you're warning is a good one: CAREFUL when replacing those scalpel blades!
@@FineScaleModelermagazine thankyou for responding to my post im lucky with being able to buy scalpels over here on the other side of the pond and it helps living in a city which is famous for making them as Swann Morton are based here. Thankyou for all the reviews and tips you give out and do to help out us all keep up the good work
@@FineScaleModelermagazinethe correct method used in the medical trade is to use forceps to remove blades safely from scalpels. The handle numbers might come from scalpel handle types which are also numbered and predate our hobby by quite a bit.
I really enjoyed and learned froim Tim's segment on hobby blades. Would it be possible to follow this up with a segment on removing thin/delicate parts from runners, perhaps using the saw blades you can get for the handles? I think a look at the saw blades would be useful.
LOL!! Handling hobby knives safety. Yes, I have. Had to explain I was building a model........ But super glue is also known as liquid sutures. So after you come around from shock and blood loss you can still get one last assembly step in.
I was gritting my teeth as you were whipping around those blades. I like how you went with it with the band-aids.
Cool i bought that little wooden box of blades and handles a couple of times. While the boxes themselves are long gone. I still have all the handles and those different blades. I use the number 11 blade exclusively, and the saw blade which i have in two different tooth sizes course and fine. Over the years i picked up a couple of boxes of 100 number 11 blades. The plastic box i gone through half the blades, as you remove a new blade you can then put the used blade into the other end or side. The box of 100 blades ive never opened.
Also no one every explained what what the different blades were for, the chisel blades self explantory but i wondered why so many different angled sharp pointed blades. Thanks for the explanation.
Up the Irons! I have hobby knife handles loaded with a #11 X-acto blade, a #11 scalpel blade, and a #15 scalpel blade. All three have their uses. I would highly recommend a handle that will not roll, or putting something on a round handle to prevent it from rolling. Round handles easily roll off of your work area and will inevitably fall point first aimed towards your foot, or so I have heard.
Up the irons! Yes, the rolling handle can be a problem, and many of us of have had accidents with them. Lots of cool handles out there designed not to roll, or there are stoppers that slip on the ends to keep them from rolling. Our go-to is the Tamiya knife handle, but there are many out there that fit the bill. Thanks for watching!
@@FineScaleModelermagazine There is a gentleman named Phillip (I cannot recall his last name) who makes wooden handles by hand for X-acto and scalpel blades. I typically see him at the IPMS Nationals, and I proudly own four of his handles. These are both ergonomic and works of art.
An easy fix to a rolling handle is a simple zip tie. Just strap one on, cut the leftover
off and the lock will keep it in place!
the good old #11 blades,great for a lot of cutting and cleaning on plastic.
I have two number one handles and a number 3 handle. I use them exactly as you describe. The #1 handle is my go to for fine work. The #3 handle is what I use when I am trying to do larger tasks, and tasks that require more force or leverage. And my second #3 handle is what I use for scribing panel lines. I take old blades and retire them to the second #3 handle. I use a dull #11 blade for scribing.
Thanks for watching and sharing what you do with your knife blades and handles. It's always good to hear what other modelers are doing.
I guess having some small bandages on one's workbench helps too!!
I like a No 11 in Fiskars triangular handle, it don't roll. I have two, one for hack work (which gets honed so it lasts longer) and another for the fine stuff (which I replace more often).
An SMS ceramic scraper blade in an old Exacto handle and a thin razor saw blade in another old handle.
I find thin chisel blades handy for removing raised detail when replacing it with photoetch.
Band-aids a nice touch and a reminder of past lapses of concentration!
As for the cars, check out the one at 18:57, the model of the "Artist's Impression" of a vehicle design. You don't say this generally in scale modelling but it looks realistically 2 dimensional!
Excellent!
Thanks for watching and the detailed explanation of your knife habits. Very cool!
I save a couple of number 11 blades that have the tip broken off to make weld beads out of softened plastic rod or stretched sprue.
Up-cycling!
Great episode. Thanks fellas!
Thanks for watching!
Is that Les Nessman doing the hobby knives?😂😂😂
To stop my knives from rolling ofbthe bench, I place a cable tie aroundbthe top part of the handle, andbthat stops it rolling around, I use mainly the # 11 blade.
Good tip, Les!
This episode brought to you by Band-Aid brand bandages specially made for modelers.
Kendra is AWESOME!
Thank you, Jerry! This made my day 😊 - Kendra
Nice touch with the band-aids
Thanks!
Love your channel guys! How about some tips and tricks on masking aircraft canopies?
I use the small chisel blade for cutting photo etch from photo etch sprue. I resharpen it a bit each hobby session and one chisel blade can last a long time. The flat tip lets me cut clean and close to the etched parts. I use a glass cutting board for this work to keep pieces from bending or warping while cutting, and I cover the piece I’m cutting with a small flat piece of metal to keep them from pinging away into the carpet.
Thanks for sharing!
Love all the Band-Aid's
Love that you're watching!
Entertaining and informative.
I have 4 x #1 handles, but they are permanently fitted with small drills .3mm = 1.5 thou and the next sizes up
I also have 2 retractable scalpel handles permanently fitted with #15 small curve and #15a small pointy blades
and I fixed scalpel handle permanently fitted with #10 curved blade (there is a documented case study of this falling off the workbench and piercing my trousers and inflicting a puncture wound in my leg [fully recovered thank you]). I find the retractable handles do not allow me to exert as much force as I want with this blade and so I put up with the danger.
on occasion I will use a #11 pointed blade
with being in the UK the knives and blades i use are Swann Morton Scalpels and blades which instead of being put in chucks instead they slide onto the handles so you have to be careful when replacing the blades when the either get dull or damaged so as not to have any accidents
Hi Paul, we have scalpels here in the U.S., too, but they're less prevalent in the hobby than the dedicated hobby knives. And you're warning is a good one: CAREFUL when replacing those scalpel blades!
@@FineScaleModelermagazine thankyou for responding to my post im lucky with being able to buy scalpels over here on the other side of the pond and it helps living in a city which is famous for making them as Swann Morton are based here. Thankyou for all the reviews and tips you give out and do to help out us all keep up the good work
@@FineScaleModelermagazinethe correct method used in the medical trade is to use forceps to remove blades safely from scalpels. The handle numbers might come from scalpel handle types which are also numbered and predate our hobby by quite a bit.
Great video, very watchable and informative - have just bought your magazine - great article on motorizing the Revell Spitfire 😊
Thanks for watching and buying the magazine! We appreciate the support.
I really enjoyed and learned froim Tim's segment on hobby blades. Would it be possible to follow this up with a segment on removing thin/delicate parts from runners, perhaps using the saw blades you can get for the handles? I think a look at the saw blades would be useful.
Thanks! This video might help you out: th-cam.com/video/FSCigxdVIVI/w-d-xo.html
My dull #11 blades also double as box cutters.
Good tip.
I love the Iron Maiden shirt. Up the Irons as they say in England.
Up the irons!
Dig the bandages joke!!
Thanks!
LOL!! Handling hobby knives safety.
Yes, I have. Had to explain I was building a model........
But super glue is also known as liquid sutures. So after you come around from shock and blood loss you can still get one last assembly step in.
The tagline was a bit of a misnomer--more about the various blades, their shapes, and uses.
Wish there is a KA-52 Alligator in 1/35.
Need a band-aid? Lmao!
LOL
What is the car model on the shelf by the Star Wars model?
ICM 1/35 scale Type 320 Cabriolet
@@FineScaleModelermagazine Thanks!
I use a Fiskars hobby knife now, it flat !! Had a Xacto but it rolled of my desk and stabbed me in the leg
OUCH! Yes, the handles with stoppers or flat sides are definitely useful.
What does NNL stand for?
Nameless National Luminaries (truly, long story).
@@johndillon8051 Wow! But now that you told me that, I'm finding more about it, using the actual name in my search. Thanks
I,m stuck on Bandaids cause Bandaids stuck on me ,..!!..
Is it me or has trumpeter gotten very expensive over the last few years?
$60 for a 1/72 Bronco????
44 at sprue bros
I see; this is the "lets get plastered" episode of tooling around...
P r o m o s m 😴
Algorithm comment thingy
Working overtime!
I never understand when people measure in inches.
El problema lo tengo cuando usan fracciones
When you are 61 years old, and grew up in the Imperial era in Britain. I use both inches and centimetres these days.
We're based in the U.S. Inches, feet, yards, and miles are the standard. But definitely use what makes sense to you.