This was about the fifth video I watched on Rolled hens. After gnashing my teeth, tearing my hair out and saying lots of nasty words for a couple hours trying to make it work I came across your video and it worked like a dream. Thank you so very much for making a complicated thing very simple.
Would really love to see this demonstrated on a square of fabric, or something that has corners. How do you deal with those? The little tiny hems on hankies today are pretty well done but have no idea how they do it?
Perhaps i am a little seasoned than most of the commenters below, as I have used the rolled hem presser foot for sometimes and practice it a lot without really success. With said, I believe this video is the best one to describe how to get the PERFECT rolled hem. Quite a few videos in TH-cam which tutors how to do the rolled hem, some said using a tail thread to lead the fabric, some said using spray glue to harder the fabric so you can curl it into the tunnel, some said using a pin to hold the fabric after rolling it up, some said using a piece of leading fabric for a few stitches to pull the fabric into the tunnel. I have trial them all but none of them can achieve "PERFECT", in another word, successfully have the hem made. You see, the most difficult part of sewing the hem is at the beginning stitches. First of all, you can''t see the beginning edge of the fabric due to the foot's blockage so it is hard to put the stitches on the right beginning resulting a crooked hem. Secondly, even you manage to put a few stitches at the beginning and manage to roll the fabric into the foot's tunnel, there is no guarantee that the hem is rolled correctly in the rest of the journey ending up either one single layer hem (without rolled in on the edge) or a flat edge. The method used in this video is better than any other methods by initially not to thread the needle. There are no actual stitches, but it functions as stitches, and the machine rolls the fabric into tunnel without human efforts. The amount of fabric that is rolled into the tunnel is exactly right because it is done by the machine. At the end you can turn the fabric back and sew the beginning stitches precisely, this guarantees the beginning part is done PERFECTLY. Practice a few time following this video's steps and you can become an expert in using the rolled hem foot. Trust me.
I agree absolutely. I'm such a beginner maybe I don' t have the right to comment but my attempts to learn have shown me exactly what you've said. And it's what I've seen in all the videos, too. The way I think of it I have been and all the instruction videos have been trying to make the roller foot do all the work. It doesn't need to. Just use it where it works and forget it where it doesn't. It's hard to start so start it easy like in this video and then finish the job by just stitching without the roller on to a hem that's now just about rolled already and just waiting to be stitched. Yep. This one is a beauty.
Just finished sewing my hem on my top. This video helped a lot and I'm very happy with the result. The only issue I had was one side seam which I had the wrong way around. Thank you
I have the rolled hem foot, it is a pain to use and takes up too much time, so it would be nice to see the company demonstrate its use on more than one fabric type (cotton, silk, satin, etc). I would like to see the rolled hem being started from a straight edge, for instance; a rectangular scarf where you have four corners to contend with. This video was not as helpful as I had hoped, especially since I have a Janome. Also, she started midway, on a circular piece of fabric where it's easy to go around because it is one continuous motion.
Jai Ni they always do tutorials on the easiest fabric to sew! Meanwhile I’m fighting slippery or stretchy fabric... if I were using this kind of cotton I probably wouldn’t need the help :/
Peggy, with a rolled hem foot any bump in the fabric may be difficult to get through the foot, but not impossible. We recommend grading the seam a bit, and pressing well. Use extra care feeding the fabric when you get to that section.
The real reason no one can get a decent rolled hem is because home sewing machines are mediocre at best. What you need is an industrial machine with an industrial rolled hemmer attachment. Search for it on TH-cam and you’ll see what I’m talking about. It’s not you, it’s the machine/attachment combo. I’m tired of sewing machine companies pretending their products work and it’s all dependent on the skill of the sewist- i.e. If it’s not working for you, you must suck at sewing and you just need to practice more. This sends the message that you’ll never be good enough because it is impossible to make these things work. It’s the attachment though, not the sewist. Industrial attachments are made to be fool proof and at high speeds. Think about it- do you think garment workers are spraying everything down with starch and ironing them and then going to their machines and stitching for a few inches with no thread and then threading their needles before they can actually do what they’re paid to do? No way on earth. Our clothes would cost ten times as much if they did. If you like to make clothing, you need to buy an industrial machine that is tweaked for a home sewist. If you are a quilter, home sewing machines are just fine. The good news too is that industrial machines and accessories are way less expensive than their counterparts, and will last way longer.
@@abrogard142 I spent 3000 dollars for my brand new Bernina home sewing machine. I can get a brand new industrial lock stitch machine for around 2000, and a refurbished used machine that will last 3 lifetimes for around 900. If you’re comparing them to the 200$ machines you get at Costco then you’re not comparing apples to apples. Those will last about two months. My bernina is awesome and it will last a long time, but not nearly as long as an industrial lock stitch machine. If I could do it all over again I would go industrial.
@@Retrochick330 So they're not cheaper. I didn't think so. I don't think you're in the same ball park as 99% of home sewers. Point is what's your estimate of the lowest cost to get a machine that will sew rolled hems more reliably than with the attachment feet we're using? And in that context it's perhaps worth noting that if the foot is the problem - using a foot instead of the industrial 'method', whatever it is - then the value and quality of the machine is irrelevant.
@@abrogard142 the machine would be irrelevant if you could get industrial attachments for home sewing machines but you can’t. That’s the point. The home sewing machine people make inadequate narrow hem attachments, but the industrial people make ones that actually work. That’s the whole point of my original comment. I didn’t mean to insinuate that industrial machines will always cost less every single time. I basically meant that a comparable machine will most likely be less expensive, but the value will be much greater which in my book makes it less expensive in the long run. It doesn’t matter what level a sewist I am compared to others, obviously they’re here because they can’t get a rolled hem sewn, and the truth is that it isn’t because they’re beginners, it’s because they lack proper tools. The people who make our clothes in factories are often much less skilled than the average home sewist, but they have machines that are better than ours. The home sewing machine companies, however, want you to believe that you need inferior machines because “you are a beginner,” and they profit from you thinking this way and being intimidated by industrial machines. I’m telling you you shouldn’t be. And by the way, my very first industrial overlock machine (serger) was 200$. I used it for a couple of years and then sold it in a heartbeat for 200$. When I tried to sell my old home sewing serger, I couldn’t give it away. My industrial overlock machine was MUCH older. Listen, though, this is only my opinion. You don’t have to agree, and neither does anyone else. I’m just trying to help people think of a different option as a solution based on my personal experience.
I had hoped that sewing a rolled hem could give flawless results, After watching many of these tutorials, i get the feeling that even these "sewests," get very mixed results. I've tried starching, pre-stitching, using the tail of first few stitches to pull the edge into the funnel. Most of the tutorials show just several inches of success, the rest is kept hidden.I'm thinking that no amount of practice is going to give a perfect hem. Some of the instructors even allude to the fact that they are not that good at sewing a rolled hem.. If the hem that you make is perfect, show it to us, to at least give us inspiration. Shame on Janome for saying that you'll get perfect results each and every time. I have a new Janome as well, and I'm quite happy with it, but don't tell us that a rolled hem is going to turn out perfectly, I have not seen one tkurorial that was that much of a success.
She didn't show the finished napkin. Is it because the corners were not caught in the rolled hem foot and were actually all frayed? Also, does she and the rest of the video makers think we didn't see the frayed edge and botched job that was done? LOLOL!!!!!!
I don’t know why we never got to see a napkin finished, front and back and the stitches and how even the hem looked. All we saw is her sewing around the napkin! Disappointed!
I don't understand why you fast forwarded?? The whole point is to see the operation in motion. Once the girl stopped talking at the beginning, and was on the way around... that's what I wanted to see. Anyway of slowing the vid to normal speed?
Spyder Quilt you can tap the top right corner of the video and three small dots appear. Tap and scroll down and it will give you different video speed options.
This helped so much! Using starch and unthreading the needle made a world of difference.
This was about the fifth video I watched on Rolled hens. After gnashing my teeth, tearing my hair out and saying lots of nasty words for a couple hours trying to make it work I came across your video and it worked like a dream. Thank you so very much for making a complicated thing very simple.
Great tips with the starch and unthreading until the fabric starts its turning. Wish i had seem this about a month ago but now I know.
Would really love to see this demonstrated on a square of fabric, or something that has corners. How do you deal with those? The little tiny hems on hankies today are pretty well done but have no idea how they do it?
Great tip, thanks. I would never have thought to do that x
Perhaps i am a little seasoned than most of the commenters below, as I have used the rolled hem presser foot for sometimes and practice it a lot without really success. With said, I believe this video is the best one to describe how to get the PERFECT rolled hem.
Quite a few videos in TH-cam which tutors how to do the rolled hem, some said using a tail thread to lead the fabric, some said using spray glue to harder the fabric so you can curl it into the tunnel, some said using a pin to hold the fabric after rolling it up, some said using a piece of leading fabric for a few stitches to pull the fabric into the tunnel. I have trial them all but none of them can achieve "PERFECT", in another word, successfully have the hem made.
You see, the most difficult part of sewing the hem is at the beginning stitches. First of all, you can''t see the beginning edge of the fabric due to the foot's blockage so it is hard to put the stitches on the right beginning resulting a crooked hem. Secondly, even you manage to put a few stitches at the beginning and manage to roll the fabric into the foot's tunnel, there is no guarantee that the hem is rolled correctly in the rest of the journey ending up either one single layer hem (without rolled in on the edge) or a flat edge.
The method used in this video is better than any other methods by initially not to thread the needle. There are no actual stitches, but it functions as stitches, and the machine rolls the fabric into tunnel without human efforts. The amount of fabric that is rolled into the tunnel is exactly right because it is done by the machine.
At the end you can turn the fabric back and sew the beginning stitches precisely, this guarantees the beginning part is done PERFECTLY.
Practice a few time following this video's steps and you can become an expert in using the rolled hem foot. Trust me.
I agree absolutely. I'm such a beginner maybe I don' t have the right to comment but my attempts to learn have shown me exactly what you've said. And it's what I've seen in all the videos, too.
The way I think of it I have been and all the instruction videos have been trying to make the roller foot do all the work. It doesn't need to. Just use it where it works and forget it where it doesn't.
It's hard to start so start it easy like in this video and then finish the job by just stitching without the roller on to a hem that's now just about rolled already and just waiting to be stitched.
Yep. This one is a beauty.
Excellent video! Thanks
Thank YOU!
Just finished sewing my hem on my top. This video helped a lot and I'm very happy with the result. The only issue I had was one side seam which I had the wrong way around. Thank you
Glad it helped!
Thank you great tutorial.
Ah, lovely. Thank you. The best demo yet.
Big thanks
Thank you! Dry easy to follow!
The way you start sewing without thread seems much easier. I tried other ways and I will try your method when I get back to my machine.
Also, show how your would roll hem an rectangular napkin or baby receiving blanket.
The Janome manual was useless. I will try this method although I would like to know how to do a square napkin without the rounded edges.
Use full. Thanks
Some great tips! Now please show us how to do with organza, chiffon.
Can you tell me which Janome machine you are using and if you like it?
You didn't mention the foot size, or the stitch length you used.
What stitch size on your Janome do you sew with 2.5 or 2.8?
Can this foot be used on knits?
I have the rolled hem foot, it is a pain to use and takes up too much time, so it would be nice to see the company demonstrate its use on more than one fabric type (cotton, silk, satin, etc). I would like to see the rolled hem being started from a straight edge, for instance; a rectangular scarf where you have four corners to contend with. This video was not as helpful as I had hoped, especially since I have a Janome. Also, she started midway, on a circular piece of fabric where it's easy to go around because it is one continuous motion.
Jai Ni they always do tutorials on the easiest fabric to sew! Meanwhile I’m fighting slippery or stretchy fabric... if I were using this kind of cotton I probably wouldn’t need the help :/
Let's see what feet and how you work with knits please.
On knits you would use a Serger.
Does this go over seams and roll that, too?
Peggy, with a rolled hem foot any bump in the fabric may be difficult to get through the foot, but not impossible. We recommend grading the seam a bit, and pressing well. Use extra care feeding the fabric when you get to that section.
@@JanomeJAI Thank you. I really had a problem with that when I tried.
legal
The real reason no one can get a decent rolled hem is because home sewing machines are mediocre at best. What you need is an industrial machine with an industrial rolled hemmer attachment. Search for it on TH-cam and you’ll see what I’m talking about. It’s not you, it’s the machine/attachment combo. I’m tired of sewing machine companies pretending their products work and it’s all dependent on the skill of the sewist- i.e. If it’s not working for you, you must suck at sewing and you just need to practice more. This sends the message that you’ll never be good enough because it is impossible to make these things work. It’s the attachment though, not the sewist. Industrial attachments are made to be fool proof and at high speeds. Think about it- do you think garment workers are spraying everything down with starch and ironing them and then going to their machines and stitching for a few inches with no thread and then threading their needles before they can actually do what they’re paid to do? No way on earth. Our clothes would cost ten times as much if they did. If you like to make clothing, you need to buy an industrial machine that is tweaked for a home sewist. If you are a quilter, home sewing machines are just fine. The good news too is that industrial machines and accessories are way less expensive than their counterparts, and will last way longer.
less expensive and better? that's good news. where? I'll have one. it'll be the first time i've ever seen industrial gear cheaper than diy gear.
@@abrogard142 I spent 3000 dollars for my brand new Bernina home sewing machine. I can get a brand new industrial lock stitch machine for around 2000, and a refurbished used machine that will last 3 lifetimes for around 900. If you’re comparing them to the 200$ machines you get at Costco then you’re not comparing apples to apples. Those will last about two months. My bernina is awesome and it will last a long time, but not nearly as long as an industrial lock stitch machine. If I could do it all over again I would go industrial.
@@Retrochick330 So they're not cheaper. I didn't think so. I don't think you're in the same ball park as 99% of home sewers. Point is what's your estimate of the lowest cost to get a machine that will sew rolled hems more reliably than with the attachment feet we're using?
And in that context it's perhaps worth noting that if the foot is the problem - using a foot instead of the industrial 'method', whatever it is - then the value and quality of the machine is irrelevant.
@@abrogard142 the machine would be irrelevant if you could get industrial attachments for home sewing machines but you can’t. That’s the point. The home sewing machine people make inadequate narrow hem attachments, but the industrial people make ones that actually work. That’s the whole point of my original comment. I didn’t mean to insinuate that industrial machines will always cost less every single time. I basically meant that a comparable machine will most likely be less expensive, but the value will be much greater which in my book makes it less expensive in the long run. It doesn’t matter what level a sewist I am compared to others, obviously they’re here because they can’t get a rolled hem sewn, and the truth is that it isn’t because they’re beginners, it’s because they lack proper tools. The people who make our clothes in factories are often much less skilled than the average home sewist, but they have machines that are better than ours. The home sewing machine companies, however, want you to believe that you need inferior machines because “you are a beginner,” and they profit from you thinking this way and being intimidated by industrial machines. I’m telling you you shouldn’t be. And by the way, my very first industrial overlock machine (serger) was 200$. I used it for a couple of years and then sold it in a heartbeat for 200$. When I tried to sell my old home sewing serger, I couldn’t give it away. My industrial overlock machine was MUCH older. Listen, though, this is only my opinion. You don’t have to agree, and neither does anyone else. I’m just trying to help people think of a different option as a solution based on my personal experience.
@@Retrochick330 how about a picture of these industrial hem attachments? what's so different about them?
I had hoped that sewing a rolled hem could give flawless results, After watching many of these tutorials, i get the feeling that even these "sewests," get very mixed results. I've tried starching, pre-stitching, using the tail of first few stitches to pull the edge into the funnel. Most of the tutorials show just several inches of success, the rest is kept hidden.I'm thinking that no amount of practice is going to give a perfect hem. Some of the instructors even allude to the fact that they are not that good at sewing a rolled hem.. If the hem that you make is perfect, show it to us, to at least give us inspiration. Shame on Janome for saying that you'll get perfect results each and every time. I have a new Janome as well, and I'm quite happy with it, but don't tell us that a rolled hem is going to turn out perfectly, I have not seen one tkurorial that was that much of a success.
She didn't show the finished napkin. Is it because the corners were not caught in the rolled hem foot and were actually all frayed? Also, does she and the rest of the video makers think we didn't see the frayed edge and botched job that was done? LOLOL!!!!!!
I don’t know why we never got to see a napkin finished, front and back and the stitches and how even the hem looked. All we saw is her sewing around the napkin! Disappointed!
Huiioii
Jim H um
I don't understand why you fast forwarded?? The whole point is to see the operation in motion. Once the girl stopped talking at the beginning, and was on the way around... that's what I wanted to see. Anyway of slowing the vid to normal speed?
Spyder Quilt you can tap the top right corner of the video and three small dots appear. Tap and scroll down and it will give you different video speed options.