sorry to be off topic but does someone know a trick to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any tricks you can give me
this video just saved me! was planning on installing the LCA and angle kit soon but didn't order the steering rack extenders, thanks for the heads up lol
Finally! so is the caster non adjustable? also i have a rack spacer already installed, will i have to replace it with an offset rack spacer if I don't end up using bump stops?
Caster can be adjusted with the upper arms gktech sells, but you shouldn’t need to change it, at 9 degrees it’s plenty. Yes you need to replace the regular spacer to the offset ones to give you more angle without binding, I had to replace mine as well
Marco!! Thx for the live caster info, I’ve been chasing the fall to lock issue & hadn’t considered the caster sweep. Spitballing here, for an ultra cheap setup do you think could you make a stop for the tension arm to limit it passing over 0? Like a bump stop but without limiting knuckle angle? I guess you’d run into wheel clearance issues at that point.
@@DriftHappy thanks man, just trying to be sure because I’m trying to install it on the stock Tie rod end threads seem like there isn’t enough threads.
I've had the knuckle adapter for probably a year+ and I got the lca about 6 months ago. Immediately after installing the lca, my arms have been extremely noisy and make the car miserable to drive because it sounds like something is falling off the car. Wondering if you or anyone else has experienced this? I'm 100% that nothing is loose. I've done over 20 bolt checks on it and can't figure it out. About to switch to fdf just because of the noise.
If you stressed out the lower ball joints they will make noise, meaning did you keep them the same length or not. also make sure to clean the heims joints periodically, heims will make noise when dirty no matter if it’s gktech, wisefab of fdf, we have all 3 angle kits at the shop all the cars make noise from not cleaning, as soon as you clean it it goes away
@@DriftHappy it happened as soon as I put the arms on. Immediately after installation, I put the car on the ground and it started making the noise on the test drive. So I did a bolt check and everything seemed fine, so i assumed the clunk noise was just normal for operation. I've recently driven a pbm and fdf car and neither had the clunking. The ball joints seem fine, especially considering they had no issues prior. I am running the rear part of the arm out to increase caster to 9.5° so I'm wondering if that's causing the issue somehow.
Yes caster adjustment is meant to be done with the upper arm when you change the length you stress the heims, but if you heard clunking as soon as install was finished sounds to me like a loose bolt somewhere, have a seperate set of eyes look too, you may have over looked something
That clunking noise could very likely be your inner tie rod ball socket, jack the car up and have someone shimmy the wheel back and forth and grab your tie rod you'll feel/hear that "clunk" then look right into your inner tie rod ball and you'll notice it pulling slightly in and out in that socket, new inner tie rod should help, mine did the same thing but never made itself present until I added the arms, also you DEFINITELY wanna run the rear and front heims of the superlock lowers the same length, thatll stress your heims hardcore, get uppers to adjust caster 🤙
@@portnocturnal I didn't think of that, I'm gonna look into it. I adjusted the lowers to equal length. One heim is visibly fucked lmao. I have uppers and plan to just redo everything on my front end, because last event the car felt like trash with the lower arms at equal length.
dude your install videos are the best. I appreciate the detail you went into when explaining how it all works
sorry to be off topic but does someone know a trick to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Malachi Azariah Instablaster ;)
Thanx for explaining the fall to lock feeling. Have been wondering why it felt like this after installing the knuckle brackets.
It’s not bad but if you want normal feeling then I suggest getting the lowers
this video just saved me! was planning on installing the LCA and angle kit soon but didn't order the steering rack extenders, thanks for the heads up lol
Finally Marco is back on youtube! Hope you stay safe.
Very nice upgrade Marco. now get some seat-time ;-) . Dutch regards Nico.
Hey when you had just the $200 dollar kit and the offset rack extenders did you have to shorten the tie rods or center the rack or anything ?
Finally! so is the caster non adjustable? also i have a rack spacer already installed, will i have to replace it with an offset rack spacer if I don't end up using bump stops?
Caster can be adjusted with the upper arms gktech sells, but you shouldn’t need to change it, at 9 degrees it’s plenty. Yes you need to replace the regular spacer to the offset ones to give you more angle without binding, I had to replace mine as well
@@DriftHappy ok thanks! so pretty much its at 9 degrees by default?
So when you adjust the track width to make the tires stick out more do you have to adjust the other heim to have the correct caster ?
Both heims need to be set together, caster is pre set in the upper
Marco!! Thx for the live caster info, I’ve been chasing the fall to lock issue & hadn’t considered the caster sweep. Spitballing here, for an ultra cheap setup do you think could you make a stop for the tension arm to limit it passing over 0? Like a bump stop but without limiting knuckle angle? I guess you’d run into wheel clearance issues at that point.
Unfortunately as long as the caster arm is attached to the knuckle there is nothing you can physically do to the caster sweep
DriftHappyTV Arms it is then, thanks man!! Let’s drive together on the 22nd!
Down
What set of off set spacers are you using ? That’s serious angle man 🔥🔥🔥
The gktech ones for 350z
Hello, nice video.
What size rims do you have in this video? I have 20” rims. Do you think I’ll have enough wheel clearance for this kit?
18x9.5, 20 will be to tall of a diameter after tire
Do you need the angle kit to install these lower control arms on the g35 sedan? Or can it be installed without one? My front is stock.
No you do not need the angle kit you can just install these and replace those old worn bushings! That’s what I am doing to my g35 sedan
@@DriftHappyyou should do your daily g35 set up video! Aiming to have more angle and camber but have it as daily driven
Would you daily there v3 kit hydro and upgraded not welded diff ?
Yes both me and my gf daily our z’s
Do you need the GKteck angle kit? Or can I just run these on the stock tie rods with the bump stops on GKtech LCAs?
You do not need the angle kit, I am planing to do the same on my g35 for normal street driving
@@DriftHappy thanks man, just trying to be sure because I’m trying to install it on the stock Tie rod end threads seem like there isn’t enough threads.
@@perezjimmy66 I had the same problem I got the gktech super adjustable inner tie rods and cut them to the right length and its perfect now
@@AbstractxPC I had the problem resolved with the bolt on angle kit spacers helped too
What does the Gk tech do that the PBM doesn't?
What’s the wheel brand on the z ?
We need an update on mat zz
I've had the knuckle adapter for probably a year+ and I got the lca about 6 months ago. Immediately after installing the lca, my arms have been extremely noisy and make the car miserable to drive because it sounds like something is falling off the car. Wondering if you or anyone else has experienced this? I'm 100% that nothing is loose. I've done over 20 bolt checks on it and can't figure it out. About to switch to fdf just because of the noise.
If you stressed out the lower ball joints they will make noise, meaning did you keep them the same length or not. also make sure to clean the heims joints periodically, heims will make noise when dirty no matter if it’s gktech, wisefab of fdf, we have all 3 angle kits at the shop all the cars make noise from not cleaning, as soon as you clean it it goes away
@@DriftHappy it happened as soon as I put the arms on. Immediately after installation, I put the car on the ground and it started making the noise on the test drive. So I did a bolt check and everything seemed fine, so i assumed the clunk noise was just normal for operation. I've recently driven a pbm and fdf car and neither had the clunking. The ball joints seem fine, especially considering they had no issues prior. I am running the rear part of the arm out to increase caster to 9.5° so I'm wondering if that's causing the issue somehow.
Yes caster adjustment is meant to be done with the upper arm when you change the length you stress the heims, but if you heard clunking as soon as install was finished sounds to me like a loose bolt somewhere, have a seperate set of eyes look too, you may have over looked something
That clunking noise could very likely be your inner tie rod ball socket, jack the car up and have someone shimmy the wheel back and forth and grab your tie rod you'll feel/hear that "clunk" then look right into your inner tie rod ball and you'll notice it pulling slightly in and out in that socket, new inner tie rod should help, mine did the same thing but never made itself present until I added the arms, also you DEFINITELY wanna run the rear and front heims of the superlock lowers the same length, thatll stress your heims hardcore, get uppers to adjust caster 🤙
@@portnocturnal I didn't think of that, I'm gonna look into it. I adjusted the lowers to equal length. One heim is visibly fucked lmao. I have uppers and plan to just redo everything on my front end, because last event the car felt like trash with the lower arms at equal length.
i need a Z in my life. send me one BROOOO
Get one! Totally worth it
Thompson Timothy Davis Larry Brown Daniel
Wow Marco you’re beautiful
@matttheginge I’m a better ginger than you
Shoutout to Marco for being what seems like the only sane person in Florida when it comes to Covid 👊
Also shoutout to GKTech for supplying such affordable, quality parts for Z's/G's