Bigger rotors are better for any riding condition IMHO. Having more control is easy to get accustomed to and is welcomed in longer descents. The extra weight is minimal and worth it.
Yeah, I kinda thought that was a BS talking point. After a couple rides you can easily adjust to more sensitive braking. Trying to justify less braking power just seems ridiculous.
It's possible to over-size your rotors for the given bike, terrain, rider. I've tried 200mm front rotors on some bikes I've owned, and it was just too much front brake power for that bike (hardtail) and my weight (about 150 lbs). My current FS trail bike has 200mm front 180mm rear but they're Maguras which means great modulation. With Shimano or other short-throw/on-off "modulation" I would downsize each rotor by 20mm. For DH, sure bigger is better. Or for any long, long descents, the ability to combat fade with bigger rotors is something people learned in the early 2000s -- back when discs were more a new thing in DH and were being refined toward where they are now. People who've just started riding MTBs in the last 5-7 years really have no idea how refined things are right now, compared to what they were in the early 2000s. Suspension could absorb but dampers were not sophisticated and air springs frequently blew up. Disc brakes, apart from Hopes and Maguras, were on/off. Hayes in particular. Geometry resembled a BMX bike (steep HA, short CS, short WB, not designed for rough trail surfaces) much more than it resembled an off-road motorcycle (as it does today). If I remember right, it was the early 2000s when handlebars finally went past 700mm wide. In the early 1990s, 24" (or 610mm) was a common handlebar width for MTBs.
In my experience, several of the EWS trends are spot on. 220mm rotors were a HUGE benefit for me at 200lbs. With Code RSC's the extra power was SOOO easy to modulate, there is no way I would use a smaller rotor. I also prefer narrower bars, I run 760mm on my trail bike and 770mm on my Enduro at 5'10". 800mm bars feel cumbersome. I do agree that DH casing is not needed for most trails and they do absolutely sap energy and speed on flatter trails and climbs. I think softer suspension sometimes depends on the intent of the bike, I run my Enduro a bit softer because it has to endure harder and harsher fast repeated hits and a little less compression can help manage that abuse, but on trail bike that does less abusive flow trails, having more support is appreciated. I also think the trend of bike downsizing can be legit as well. Bikes have gotten so long these days that I used to run a Large on everything, but now I mostly feel more comfortable on medium's that have a more balanced reach of around 455-470mm for me.
I'm the same weight and run 220's on my Dominion A4's, the stats are like 17% more braking force per 20mm upsize, easier pull on the levers, less pump, on big steep gnarly descents I use every bit of those 220's, if 240's existed I'd fully entertain them. You can read people all day at 145lbs who swear that 180 is the biggest you'd ever need ever and thats that. Maybe if you're running Shimano's with aggressive servo-wave on 220's it might hit pretty hard, or you're a full pro who barley brakes anyways, but they're certainly not just for filthy e-bikers. (not that weight matters that much but I measured I think 17g more then a 200 for a 220)
@@martsmarts You really have to sit on a bike to tell about sizing now. With slack head tubes and steep seat tubes, reach numbers are much different in reality then they were a few years ago. You might fit an XL easily as I found out I did on a more modern geo bike.
Yeah well in 6'2" and run 810mm bars and 180fr 160r brake rotors. So who really cares. Run what ever the fuck you want to. And try not to be a dick about it.
I do a lot of these things. My bars are cut to 760, which is arguably the best thing I've done. More range of motion in the corners and high speed stability I haven't noticed a difference in, I've raced a downhill on that setup also. I also ride 220mm rotor F with a 200mm R and the power, and more notably the heat dissipation is so much better just keeping the pad feel the same all of the time. Sometimes, the pros are doing things for a reason, I think half of this video is probably incorrect🤷♂️
DH casing tires at low pressures feel absolutely amazing in corners and hitting rocks but nothing can prepare you for the first time you put them on and Bunny Hop your bike and realized just how damn heavy unsprung mass feels😂
These hypocrites on the channel , few year ago they put vid on about running normal casing at low pressure and said you SHOULDNT do that , and said DH casing at low pressure is what you Should do ,,.. now they saying don’t use DH casing cos yo ain’t a pro, f that , al run what I want
I agree with almost all of your points, but... I'm 6'1 and riding the shore/Whistler from 2001 to 2007, before the wide bar era truly began, I rode on Truvativ Holzfeller bars at 730mm width with a 50mm rise and I was just fine. After trying everything from 800mm on down I found that 760mm was the sweet spot for me. For almost all type of riding I do, other than maybe full on park, it works the dream 😎
My sweet spot is normally 780mm, but on a 29er I do like to run 800mm due to the way I ride, though I do ride that with wider grips so I can shift my hands about more.
I’m on shorter 760 bars exactly because of tight tree sections. I had two occasions where I literally ripped both bar end plugs out riding through trees. Another consideration: cornering can require optimized bar length because you need to push the inside cornering hand lower to the ground while you remain upright over the bike. Slightly shorter bars can allow you to get that bike lower and turn a little bit easier/quicker depending on your body geo.
This is actually pretty funny. I started moving towards most the things this video says not to do and it's improved my riding. The biggest thing I disagree with on EWS trends is downsizing too much, which they didn't include!
Totally agree, it’s nice that the bikes come with wider bars, but please adjust your bars to your posture and needs. Otherwise poor pinky is not to happy about. 😂
Really a matter of preference and bike brand. For example some size m bike have a reach of 480mm while others may only have a reach 400mm. That's why before buying a bike ppl should always look at the geometry of a bike.
It's a bit surprising that the pro ews rider rides without any body protection at all except helmet. Also surprising that it's allowed. Also a bit sad that the kids take up on this trend. 10 years ago you saw people with full moto gear in the bike parks, now you see kids with only a t-shirt ripping harder than ever in history and when disaster hits, it hits harder than ever. Personally i always have a back protector and when in parks, also a neck brace.
Regarding bar length I set mine up to the width of my arms and hands when in a press up position. Your strongest position for a press up should be your strongest position on your bike. 5'9" - 770mm Works for me!
I do all of these "wrong" things! Find that it works great here in Madeira, 760bars because of trees, softish compression because its rough as, no water because there is water everywhere, DH tires because trail casing last about 5min and im not rich, big rotors because its steep and fast, Medium bike because its tight most of times, mullet because its more nimble.... all the wrong stuff
yep, definitely, especially the bars, generally i run them at 790 (i am 188cm/6'2 tall) most of the time, lighter casing tires, 200mm rotors up front 180mm in the back, wear a hip pack even on the shortest of rides, and like my suspension to feel supportive above anything, to be fair i come from a place where there are no trees at all so we don't have the hitting shit problem. but i somehow managed to qualify for EWS 2023 season and i just figured out that i suddenly do need to start trying these things, how the turn tables
700mm wide bars here! Any wider and I feel I don't have the control or strength on the bike. Narrow bars also help you get over the back wheel better too!
If you’re running shimano brakes I bet those large rotors would probably be difficult to modulate as shimano brakes have a progressive pull, however with SRAM or Magura brakes they would be amazing!
Remember when mountain biking used to be about enjoyment, having a laugh and grinning from ear to ear? Shame it's the manufacturers steering the industry rather than the riders!! People should stop following what the pro's ride and concentrate on their own style and needs. A pro need to either get down a mountain as quick as possible or across country as quick as possible, neither of these it true when I go for a ride! As a society, we are transfixed on stats and figures!! It must be lighter, stiffer, % more etc etc....all a load of old guff used to sell to the uneducated amongst us. Start enjoying life more rather than chasing the unreachable!
Bro 100 this whole ( need to for faster is LAME ) It’s called mountain biking not mountain bike racing . Sure some people race But that has nothing to do with the spirit of riding in nature and breathing in the views sounds and adventure or a new places . People need to turn off their GoPros stop turning life into ( content creation ) and slow down live laugh and take it all in with time to process and enjoy the ride
I actually do try to ride fast on solo rides, but my bike weight isn’t super light because I opted for components like coil rear shock, and some other upgrades like a Secus. Comfort and control. But… the weight doesn’t prevent me from outputting less energy and I certainly don’t care if it slows me down a tad on uphill when the down sections are amazing. My thought is that you get used to any bike you buy so just make it comfortable and durable.
Similar thing happening in surfing. World Surf League athletes trying to sell the boards they ride on world class waves that most surfers can’t even surf correctly, and fins that most surfers won’t be able to tell the difference between.
Yeah like now steering us to super boost. Because everyone needs 157mm dropouts. We absolutely need them. Why? Because they will soon make that the monopolistic standard and now we need to pay another several thousand on another frame.
Seeing the Pro setup in slow mo footage of EWS inspired me to plush it out. I love it however I love to go fast through tech (seeking the elusive KOM or at least top ten) and it really reduces arm strain and increases control in the violent stuff. However it does suck if your going slow on steep and\or techy as the fork dives on you quite hard. BUT the MRP ramp control alleviates this a lot!
When it comes to handlebars, too narrow is better than too wide when it comes to body mechanics. Nobody is going to run 580mm bars, but XC riders can run up to 680mm "short" bars. It all comes down to bike fit, there is no one size that fits all.
when I got a new rig it came with 800mm bars and it completely ruined my experience on the bike. made it feel so weird and hard to maneuver. Until I chopped them down to 770 and I felt like I could ride again. It was really weird honestly it felt like I forgot how to ride.
I rode 800mm for quite a while. I’m not a particularly tall guy, about 5’7” - 5’8”ish. Finally at some point I accepted the fact that my body size is probably not compatible with that width, because I could never get my body position to feel right. So I kept cutting them back, until I felt I hit my magic number at 740mm. Bar width is definitely not one size fits all, and you’re absolutely right with the fact that too narrow is better than too wide.
Wide bars are good for track and downhill trail, but you will notice on a long paved road ride the wide bars will fatigue your arms and that's when you will want narrower bars.
Yeah she kind of lost me with this point from the very beginning. I think we’re well past the point of people believing that wider is better. it absolutely isn’t. Then I stopped watching when talking about tires. Getting the best tires you can get is the most important factor at improving your ride. Better traction, and puncture protection is good for everybody not just the “pros”!
Exactly - 760mm is hardly narrow. The correct width is based on your shoulders and riding stance, not what the bar manufacturer gives you... these days they are 800mm stock so you CAN cut them down as required.
I’m an XC rider in the US, the fact that 750mm bars are being called “narrow” is absolutely insane to me. I am riding 720mm bars which is what my bars came cut to, they give me tons of control and allow me to fit around most trees around where I ride. Some XC riders are using 690mm bars and they do fine! I live in the Midwest where there are barely any wide open park style trails, most trails are tight riding in the woods. I have been out to Colorado to winter park as well as Arizona and 720 bars are more than enough on DH trails there.
You should mention that Moir compares his setup with his dh setup when he says its soft… and soft for him would probably still blow out the kneecaps of most normal people… And also that is something that would totally make sense for amateur riders, bc we rarely really know tracks that well that we can have comparable laps repeatedly… Amateurs should want a setup that is made for riding on sight, cause thats what most of them tend to do most of the time, even on their hometrails…
Thicker tire casing also allows for better cornering support using less tire air pressure. Tires are always going to be dependent on the terrain you ride and how heavy and hard you ride.
I think narrow bars are great with cornering, especially when you're close to trees, but I think you need some upper body strength to overcome the lack of leverage.
I went from 780mm to 800mm. Rode the 800mm for a while I cut the bars to 780 and it felt so good. I am 6’1 more neutral on the bike I felt like I was stretching forward with the wide bars
I can agree with most of this video, but the dh casing tyres are a must where I live. And to make matters worse, can't get stock of tyres in Australia most of the time, so a sidewall tear can take you off the trails for quite some time.
Another point - copying geometry, big wheels, upsizing for super long reach and more stability at speed isn’t always best either. If you have tight slow techy trails at home, those bikes can be like steering a barge.
I rode a full suspension mountain bike back in 1996 (Giant ATX990 - John Tomac model) and rode it for years. Felt comfortable considering the bikes back then had what a lot of people would consider the handlebars "way to narrow." During the mid 2000's, I went roadie...put in a lot of miles and as much as I loved riding road bikes, I missed mountain biking a lot. I recently bought IBIS, with it's 780mm wide handlebars. I tried to get use to it, but it just didn't feel right. I experimented, moved the shifters in a little closer, and it felt a lot better. This made me decide to cut my handlebars down to 760mm. In my opinion, my bike feels a lot more comfortable at this width.
👌😅great vid, i will never be a pro, I just like to hit fast flowy trails, nothing too technical, because I'm still learning the basic skills, and my set up is what's comfortable for me👍
Here I was expecting someting more in-depth about geo and setup choices. The only think slightly applicable to the title is the tire choice. The rest of the video just touches some superficial setup choices in which personal preference plays almost a bigger role than speed... Bar width, brake rotor size, minimal kit, come on... If you ride small natural singletracks wider than 750 mm isn't even an option?! I would be interested in: What makes a certain geo work and how far off are pro bikes getting now from something that's usable at average Joe speeds? How do pro's actually use their parts (show the actual speed, braking force, duration of max load)?
Proper video! More narrow bars are definitely the go for every level of rider though, i’d say most people run their handlebars too wide and especially womens
I run 760 bars @5’10. I was running 780s and bought a 760 set just to try and it made the bike feel way easier to get around tight corners and quick right left turns and stuff for normal riding. IMO the long low and super wide bars stuff it’s just getting too much. Most my local trails my 460 reach large barely get around tight switchbacks and stuff let alone new 480+ larges.
I just switched from 203mm Shimano Saint brakes on a 180mm travel Haibike, to 220mm SRAM Code RS brakes on a 180mm travel Specialized Turbo Kenevo Expert, and I can't believe how much difference in braking power it has with the bigger rotors. The strongest DH Shimano 203mm brake setup has no where near as much power as the mid level 220mm SRAM brakes. I had zero problem modulating the braking power on either bike, both feel great. Now I am going to change the Saints to 220mm and not look back!
At 187cm and 95kg I should be on an XL frame but ride a L as you can chuck it around so much better. I ride a 29r but the bike being smaller it handles like a 27.5. I run a 223mm rotor on the front. I'm a bike park patroller so ride every day
Lol I absolutely love heavy duty (dirt) tires and narrow handlebars on my bike. Because Im already heavy myself and extra snakebite protection is totally worth the (irrelevant) extra weight tradeoff. And because I use my bike in (urban) traffic situations, too.
Re: bar length. Everyone is running bars that are too long. I cut mine form 780 > 750 and I no longer get a sprained shoulder and I don't munt my knuckles on things.
No, it depends on build, posture and technique, it also depends on grips, I have a hardtail 29er with 800mm bars, but I run wider grips so I can change hand positions as I ride.
I’m just looking at current DH tread patterns which are very reminiscent of the old Specialized Ground Control of the late 90’s with a 2:1:2:1 centre block pattern.
Another nice one. I just set my bike how I think is right for me. Suspension and cockpit setup. Unless I absolutely have to, I will keep using 800mm bar, I don't think I can go any shorter without my elbows popping out of place, with 800mm it only does sometimes on gnarly or really rough stuff. They do that a lot with 720mmm on easy stuff, even a asphalt path, I am 181cm quite regular in upper body and arms I guess. my wrists are even worse, so I use wrist supports, so I don't miss corners any more due to not being able to brake properly cus of misaligned wrist. I haven't got along with any shifters yet, but now I have Archer d1xtrail with paddle remote, great ergonomics, no extreme movement, and no fatigue, with mechanical my thumb could cause pain when it misaligned during a shift, so this is an important part of my cockpit setup. long enough reach, and high enough cockpit, have brake levers quite flat is important for me to relax my arms and hands. My hands just rest on the grips, and my arms are relaxed. This is another thing the pros do, but can't be done if your bike has too short reach, or very low cockpit, it will kink your wrists.
I actually Ride 760 Bars since i Started. I Tried bigger but didnt liked how much longer and less easy to move around the bike felt. Ive never ben a Fan of compression i Always have it Fully Open and i used to Ride a crazy amount of Rebounds. But i Tried a few clicks less and now the bike feels Just Dreams
downsizing your frame size is trend that should honestly be followed. I hate my current frame as it is way too big for me even though it was supposed to be the size for me. I could'nt lift my frontend up at all before, so I had to get spacers and high riser bar (50mm) to make it more comfy, but it didn't help much with the issue, as I still cannot manual or bunnyhop with this frame. Should always buy a frame that has the reach that makes sense to you.
It's all about personal preferences but for those just starting they don't know which knob does what or how to set up their bike. Following a pro riders setup could get them close then it's just learning how to make the adjustments to dial it in just right.
Ha! If I didn’t run DH casings I would be going through tires on my home trails every month. Big riders who ride aggressively need big rotors. Maybe a better title would have been “Don’t ride an enduro setup unless you ride enduro trails.”
I agree with most of what you were saying apart from the width of handlebars. I run 750mm bars and I have so much more control over my bike when descending steep tight forest dh tracks. I don’t think shorter bars is something which should be just saved for the pros
I agree except for the second point. I live far away from my local trails and the finishing spot is really dangerous, so If I get a puncture as I finish my ride, I'm exposing myself to innecesary dangers, just to go across town again
If you're not over 6ft tall you might want to trim down those bars a tad. I'm 5'10" and on the bigger side and 780 is my preferred width but am also perfectly comfortable on 800s, but would trim them down if it were my own bike.
Any male rider over 6ft should probably be on 800s or wider unless they're built like a beanpole like Moir is. Optimal bar width is your comfortable push up hand width. 760-780 is the average range for your typical 5'8" to 5'10" male.
Its not. She's saying to not just blindly cut your bars to the width that the pros use but instead use the bar width that works for you. Sounds like you're killing it in the latter area
Disagree with a lot of what she just said. Running 750 on bars any wider is a negative for me. Flats suck, I run enduro casing on the rear. Bikes have gotten to big for my liking. I do like to carry lots of water EWS track style trai;ls are ultra fun to ride, albeit I am going slower.
I have run 760mm bars on my last bike which sadly got stolen... And when i was in Austria i rode my friends secondary bike which i think had 740mm bars. The 760 felt alright and i can fit thru some stuff easily that i would have to slow down a lot with my current 800mm bars. The 740mm on my friends bike was too small. I will probably cut my new bars to 770mm but will first keep em at their original 780mm when they arrive. PS: The bike i rode in Austria i think had 203mm front and rear. His main bike 220mm Front. I liked the feel of his huge brake! I would probably get used to it quick. Coming from cheap and weak 2piston brakes on a 180mm i also got used pretty fast to my current SLX 4piston on 203mm front and 180mm rear (180mm rear because Enduro hardtail) which are hella strong.
I've run 780 on my xc and trail bikes and that feels fine. May try narrower but I don't really feel the need to. My enduro bike cam with 800 and that definitely feels too wide unless I am in the park.
I am a big fan of big brakes, though big for me is just 203s at each end. Though as a heavier rider I prefer a very progressive setup, especially out back. I understand why the pros want it as soft as they can get away with as they're trying to keep the bike on the ground where I prefer the bike to be a bit poppier and playful for fun riding rather than max speed.
It's funny to me that you call 760 bars "narrow"... I run 720 bars on all my bikes, I feel it is the perfect width. My newest bike came with 780 bars I think, it felt extremely wide, got stuck in trees even. Changed it to 720 and never looked back.
I think bar width come down to body type and comfort, I ran 800mm and they were way too wide, so I found what was a comfortable bench pressing width, 770mm, and they felt way better.
i can agree on handle bar length water bottle or back pack disc brakes i get it and agree the tires i run a heavy bike as it is . purposely if i can push a heavy bike i build strength that i can use on my lite bike . i ride a lot human made trails or long forgotten trails so i run heavy tires even on my lite bike one regret is the fork i run it loose . i just can t dial in proper setting for my fork maybe some day i will play with it but not now
I'm also gonna mount 200 or 220 mm rotors on my next bike. Reason is, that i'm 115 kg right now. The weight difference between a 75 kg rider and me is much more important than the 5-10 kg an e-bike adds. And the 25 km/h limit means that in open areas they aren't faster and in the downhills an e-bike isn't faster either because the motor is not the limiting factor...
I'd promote playing about with stem and bar combos I buy them second hand or cheap brand x ones before purchasing my preferred "forever" bar and stem combo. All companies follow suit now 800 wide 35mm stem, am tinkering with 50mm stem 770 wide +10 extra rise and its a different bike
Any bike no matter what type or style it is should be set up to fit the specific rider. Stack and reach are going to be the two most important metrics. And then suspension. The bike should be set up to the Riders experience level and capability. But also Bike setup should be fluid, meaning as a rider improves small changes would be made to match the riders ability.
The brakes real do depend on the rider and you can set the same brakes up differently. What should the optimal handle bar width really be based on for one thing it's not just your height. For instance the width of your shoulders not all people of the same height have the width and yes to a degree the trails you ride can play in to that as well.
I run Enduro casing Der Kaisers for everything. Yeah, they are heavy but they offer the right balance of roll speed and grip for anything my erratic head will decide to hit. The casing is nice and firm. I run big 203mm discs for the power. Big discs don't mean less modulation, they just require a bit of training and time to get used to. I couldn't ride soft suspension. 20% is my happy place. There's nothing that's stopped me like that so far. If anything the bike feels better at 20% than 30%. Some Pro stuff will work for the everyday rider. Just don't go overboard. Let those similarities be happy accidents and not a deliberate effort to impersonate the legends.
Narrower handlebars are legit depending on your wingspan (as is downsizing bikes that have overgrown so that bike companies can market 'new improved' geometry every year), it's not just to avoid trees, you also gain a lot of range of motion. 760 is plenty wide for most of the bell curve. Heavy duty tires and big Rotors depends on weight and aggression. For minimal kit, yes you should stay well hydrated. Depends on the ride length ofc. Pros run soft compression because the biggest suspension sponsors (fox and RS, aka McDonalds and Burger King) have garbage dampers that spike (i.e. momentarily feels like a rigid bike) when you turn up the compression and slam into jaggedness at high speed. They're made to feel like silk at slow speed to sell to new riders. Actual quality dampers (like Manitou's) for faster/larger riders feel like shit at slow speeds and are smooth at high speed. It's rediculous that dampers are the biggest differentiator between a mid-range and high-end suspension but everyone opens them up so they do as little as possible.
What about the trend of having 38mm forks on bikes that are usually spec'd with 35-36mm? Is the extra stiffness worth the extra weight? Does it throw the balance off? I have a Canyon strive, which has a steep head angle compared to a lot of other enduro bikes. Most of the pros (like Jack) ride Strives with big Zeb forks. I am wondering if it would be a good upgrade for less than cliff drop trails. I am tempted by the new Rockshox forks but not sure if a 160mm Lyric (stock on my bike) or a 170-180mm Zen would be the way to go. There's not much difference in price. Anyone tried the swap?
I'm not a PRO.. I never was a PRO... I will NEVER BE a pro. (ok I'm Mediocre as my video's contest)..... SOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooo I ride with a back pack with a bit more gear than I need... And to be honest.. I hardly use any of it... A drink... Ok I use that... in it goes.. (And maybe a can for Top o' the hill. A couple of muesli bars. May not need them.. but what if I end up stuck overnight... In they go. (and a lighter for a similar reason) Thank BOB I have NEVER had to use the emergency blanket... but its plastic foil and ways near nothing... so in it goes.. There are plenty of things on mine, and others bikes, that undo with an Allen Key, so in goes that set.. I live in Wellington NZ.. where if you don't like the weather.... wait a minute... So in goes at least a light windbreaker (with a bit of Selleys Water Shield to keep 'some' water out) Zip ties.... well their Zip ties.. So in they go... and electrician tape coz.. well see Zip Ties!... and a couple of standard bolts for good measure A bit of rag... (What, you've never thrown a chain or helped someone that has)... On that note... A chain breaker and joiners Spare inner tube... coz I run Tubes y'all ! (and it's a Presta 27.5 coz at a pinch it will fit a 26 or 29 and any hole size incase it's 'that other rider'). A plastic tyre lever... Never had to use one, but maybe that other rider does... A bike pump... coz my bikes too good for an external bracket... (Wait a minute.. I've got a Rivnut tool... why don't I MAKE a bottle mount! (slapping forehead)). And a small roll of TP, flattened, in a waterproof bag.. because why not. And the pack, smallish, canvas camo coz it was free... and all up, less than 3.5kg with 1lt drink and a 250ml can. I'm about 77kg so that just makes me an 80kg MacGyver. Anyone rock a heavier kit?
This just confirms GMBN as a channel for the lowest common denominator/masses of people dabbling in the sport/casual weekend warriors. Not people at the upper end of the spectrum. Pretty much all these tips, you'd essentially do the opposite if you're somewhat of a decent rider.
I live here in norway and we basically just have tracks that Are not designd for bikes so we prob have to copy the pros since the trails we have Are filled with trees
I thinks it's very negative to tell people not to try something and to experiment with bike set up. Cutting bars, changing brake rotors or suspension settings are very inexpensive ways to find your dream set up. You will never know if something is right for you, until you give it a go!
I definetively ride on narrow bars, I use downhill tyres, and I have big rotors. But that's my own choice. I think the point of this video is nice, but not the actual content of it. It feels like you're basically telling us to not to do any of this, or maybe even assuming we're not capable of riding with certain of this things just because we're not pro. For example, you say most people can't modulate the braking power and it would be bad to use big rotors because of that. That's bs. I went from 160 to 203mm rotors and I got the hang of it in a few minutes. Yes, it's more powerful, but it also feels better once you get confortable with it, which is, certainly, a short period of time. I'm thinking of going up to 220mm rotors in a near future.
Bigger rotors are better for any riding condition IMHO. Having more control is easy to get accustomed to and is welcomed in longer descents. The extra weight is minimal and worth it.
Yeah, I kinda thought that was a BS talking point. After a couple rides you can easily adjust to more sensitive braking. Trying to justify less braking power just seems ridiculous.
Agree 100% I’m 203 both ends with sintered pads, I like it
I'm 110kg more power more better for me
Dont really agree on you guys but I think everyone should ride what he wants. Ps. I ride big rotors too
It's possible to over-size your rotors for the given bike, terrain, rider. I've tried 200mm front rotors on some bikes I've owned, and it was just too much front brake power for that bike (hardtail) and my weight (about 150 lbs). My current FS trail bike has 200mm front 180mm rear but they're Maguras which means great modulation. With Shimano or other short-throw/on-off "modulation" I would downsize each rotor by 20mm. For DH, sure bigger is better. Or for any long, long descents, the ability to combat fade with bigger rotors is something people learned in the early 2000s -- back when discs were more a new thing in DH and were being refined toward where they are now.
People who've just started riding MTBs in the last 5-7 years really have no idea how refined things are right now, compared to what they were in the early 2000s. Suspension could absorb but dampers were not sophisticated and air springs frequently blew up. Disc brakes, apart from Hopes and Maguras, were on/off. Hayes in particular. Geometry resembled a BMX bike (steep HA, short CS, short WB, not designed for rough trail surfaces) much more than it resembled an off-road motorcycle (as it does today).
If I remember right, it was the early 2000s when handlebars finally went past 700mm wide. In the early 1990s, 24" (or 610mm) was a common handlebar width for MTBs.
In my experience, several of the EWS trends are spot on. 220mm rotors were a HUGE benefit for me at 200lbs. With Code RSC's the extra power was SOOO easy to modulate, there is no way I would use a smaller rotor. I also prefer narrower bars, I run 760mm on my trail bike and 770mm on my Enduro at 5'10". 800mm bars feel cumbersome. I do agree that DH casing is not needed for most trails and they do absolutely sap energy and speed on flatter trails and climbs. I think softer suspension sometimes depends on the intent of the bike, I run my Enduro a bit softer because it has to endure harder and harsher fast repeated hits and a little less compression can help manage that abuse, but on trail bike that does less abusive flow trails, having more support is appreciated. I also think the trend of bike downsizing can be legit as well. Bikes have gotten so long these days that I used to run a Large on everything, but now I mostly feel more comfortable on medium's that have a more balanced reach of around 455-470mm for me.
I'm the same weight and run 220's on my Dominion A4's, the stats are like 17% more braking force per 20mm upsize, easier pull on the levers, less pump, on big steep gnarly descents I use every bit of those 220's, if 240's existed I'd fully entertain them. You can read people all day at 145lbs who swear that 180 is the biggest you'd ever need ever and thats that. Maybe if you're running Shimano's with aggressive servo-wave on 220's it might hit pretty hard, or you're a full pro who barley brakes anyways, but they're certainly not just for filthy e-bikers. (not that weight matters that much but I measured I think 17g more then a 200 for a 220)
@@Kingsoupturbo I'm 165lb and just upgraded to 223 front and rear 💪
I'm 5'10 and a half and in the midst of the medium vs large dilemma as well
@@martsmarts You really have to sit on a bike to tell about sizing now. With slack head tubes and steep seat tubes, reach numbers are much different in reality then they were a few years ago. You might fit an XL easily as I found out I did on a more modern geo bike.
Yeah well in 6'2" and run 810mm bars and 180fr 160r brake rotors. So who really cares. Run what ever the fuck you want to. And try not to be a dick about it.
I do a lot of these things. My bars are cut to 760, which is arguably the best thing I've done. More range of motion in the corners and high speed stability I haven't noticed a difference in, I've raced a downhill on that setup also. I also ride 220mm rotor F with a 200mm R and the power, and more notably the heat dissipation is so much better just keeping the pad feel the same all of the time. Sometimes, the pros are doing things for a reason, I think half of this video is probably incorrect🤷♂️
DH casing tires at low pressures feel absolutely amazing in corners and hitting rocks but nothing can prepare you for the first time you put them on and Bunny Hop your bike and realized just how damn heavy unsprung mass feels😂
😁if you weigh 120kg like me, a few extra grams is hardly noticed.
@@marcelknop1 I'm 235lbs and I thought that too until I did it. 🤣😂😪
I'll take any pain for that glorious invincible DH casing feeling when smashing through rock gardens.
@@user-nn4wj8gk9s Would a Maxxis Shorty or a Schwalbe Magic Mary do the job maybe?
These hypocrites on the channel , few year ago they put vid on about running normal casing at low pressure and said you SHOULDNT do that , and said DH casing at low pressure is what you Should do ,,.. now they saying don’t use DH casing cos yo ain’t a pro, f that , al run what I want
I agree with almost all of your points, but...
I'm 6'1 and riding the shore/Whistler from 2001 to 2007, before the wide bar era truly began, I rode on Truvativ Holzfeller bars at 730mm width with a 50mm rise and I was just fine. After trying everything from 800mm on down I found that 760mm was the sweet spot for me. For almost all type of riding I do, other than maybe full on park, it works the dream 😎
My sweet spot is normally 780mm, but on a 29er I do like to run 800mm due to the way I ride, though I do ride that with wider grips so I can shift my hands about more.
I'm 6'4", and I like 730 to 760. I tried 800, and they feel awesome in a manual, but otherwise it just makes the bikes feel slow.
I’m on shorter 760 bars exactly because of tight tree sections. I had two occasions where I literally ripped both bar end plugs out riding through trees. Another consideration: cornering can require optimized bar length because you need to push the inside cornering hand lower to the ground while you remain upright over the bike. Slightly shorter bars can allow you to get that bike lower and turn a little bit easier/quicker depending on your body geo.
This is actually pretty funny. I started moving towards most the things this video says not to do and it's improved my riding. The biggest thing I disagree with on EWS trends is downsizing too much, which they didn't include!
I feel like they ran out of content for the week that this was produced
actually the pro set up of the handle bar width of 760 has helped me a lot. I used to ride with 780 but 760 is the sweet spot for me.
Totally agree, it’s nice that the bikes come with wider bars, but please adjust your bars to your posture and needs. Otherwise poor pinky is not to happy about. 😂
To wide a bar can also lead to headbutting the stem on big jumps and fatigue on the arms i.e. like press-ups on the trails
What about downsizing? I hear some of these pros choose a smaller size bike than they would if not racing.
Yes, they go for performance, not for trends
Modern geometry are basically one size up anyways
Really a matter of preference and bike brand. For example some size m bike have a reach of 480mm while others may only have a reach 400mm. That's why before buying a bike ppl should always look at the geometry of a bike.
@@Grunge_Cycling Modern bikes also have a shorter Cockpit so the longer reach doesn't mean bars further away.
It's a bit surprising that the pro ews rider rides without any body protection at all except helmet. Also surprising that it's allowed. Also a bit sad that the kids take up on this trend. 10 years ago you saw people with full moto gear in the bike parks, now you see kids with only a t-shirt ripping harder than ever in history and when disaster hits, it hits harder than ever. Personally i always have a back protector and when in parks, also a neck brace.
Regarding bar length I set mine up to the width of my arms and hands when in a press up position. Your strongest position for a press up should be your strongest position on your bike.
5'9" - 770mm
Works for me!
Identical measures however I cut to 770 as I was just clipping fingers at full lean
Same here!
I'm 5', 8". 760 mm fits me well.
5’ 7” here, and cut to 760mm. I tried wider than that but it caused pain in my back and shoulders.
5’8” here, found my sweet spot at 740mm.
I do all of these "wrong" things! Find that it works great here in Madeira, 760bars because of trees, softish compression because its rough as, no water because there is water everywhere, DH tires because trail casing last about 5min and im not rich, big rotors because its steep and fast, Medium bike because its tight most of times, mullet because its more nimble.... all the wrong stuff
yep, definitely, especially the bars, generally i run them at 790 (i am 188cm/6'2 tall) most of the time, lighter casing tires, 200mm rotors up front 180mm in the back, wear a hip pack even on the shortest of rides, and like my suspension to feel supportive above anything, to be fair i come from a place where there are no trees at all so we don't have the hitting shit problem. but i somehow managed to qualify for EWS 2023 season and i just figured out that i suddenly do need to start trying these things, how the turn tables
700mm wide bars here! Any wider and I feel I don't have the control or strength on the bike. Narrow bars also help you get over the back wheel better too!
If you’re running shimano brakes I bet those large rotors would probably be difficult to modulate as shimano brakes have a progressive pull, however with SRAM or Magura brakes they would be amazing!
Thicker rotors can transform the brake feel. Galfer rotors instead of shimano are a nice upgrade.
Magura rotors tend to be thicker than Shimano too.
Or the thickest of them all, TRP!
@@user-yv2cz8oj1k my experience is that the Magura rotors are loud. Galfer ones are easier to find and cheaper in North America
This was a particularly well put together and presented episode. Great work Anna and team,
Thanks, Ricardo! Anna knows her stuff! It was so interesting to hear about the trends that have come and gone from enduro racing! 👍
Main take away is to adjust it to your riding style. Their profession is to race and they are looking for a reliable tool to win / do the job…🙌
Remember when mountain biking used to be about enjoyment, having a laugh and grinning from ear to ear? Shame it's the manufacturers steering the industry rather than the riders!! People should stop following what the pro's ride and concentrate on their own style and needs. A pro need to either get down a mountain as quick as possible or across country as quick as possible, neither of these it true when I go for a ride! As a society, we are transfixed on stats and figures!! It must be lighter, stiffer, % more etc etc....all a load of old guff used to sell to the uneducated amongst us. Start enjoying life more rather than chasing the unreachable!
Bro 100 this whole ( need to for faster is LAME )
It’s called mountain biking not mountain bike racing .
Sure some people race
But that has nothing to do with the spirit of riding in nature and breathing in the views sounds and adventure or a new places .
People need to turn off their GoPros stop turning life into ( content creation ) and slow down live laugh and take it all in with time to process and enjoy the ride
I actually do try to ride fast on solo rides, but my bike weight isn’t super light because I opted for components like coil rear shock, and some other upgrades like a Secus. Comfort and control. But… the weight doesn’t prevent me from outputting less energy and I certainly don’t care if it slows me down a tad on uphill when the down sections are amazing. My thought is that you get used to any bike you buy so just make it comfortable and durable.
Similar thing happening in surfing. World Surf League athletes trying to sell the boards they ride on world class waves that most surfers can’t even surf correctly, and fins that most surfers won’t be able to tell the difference between.
Same BS that happened to skateboarding, snowboarding, and to a lesser extent traditional surfing.
Big corporations often ruin everything they touch.
Yeah like now steering us to super boost. Because everyone needs 157mm dropouts. We absolutely need them. Why? Because they will soon make that the monopolistic standard and now we need to pay another several thousand on another frame.
When it comes to bar width, from the posts I'm reading here it looks like the Pros are copying the logic of everyday riders 😉
Seeing the Pro setup in slow mo footage of EWS inspired me to plush it out. I love it however I love to go fast through tech (seeking the elusive KOM or at least top ten) and it really reduces arm strain and increases control in the violent stuff. However it does suck if your going slow on steep and\or techy as the fork dives on you quite hard. BUT the MRP ramp control alleviates this a lot!
When it comes to handlebars, too narrow is better than too wide when it comes to body mechanics. Nobody is going to run 580mm bars, but XC riders can run up to 680mm "short" bars. It all comes down to bike fit, there is no one size that fits all.
when I got a new rig it came with 800mm bars and it completely ruined my experience on the bike. made it feel so weird and hard to maneuver. Until I chopped them down to 770 and I felt like I could ride again. It was really weird honestly it felt like I forgot how to ride.
Depends on your body build, how you hold your position, and style of riding.
I rode 800mm for quite a while. I’m not a particularly tall guy, about 5’7” - 5’8”ish. Finally at some point I accepted the fact that my body size is probably not compatible with that width, because I could never get my body position to feel right. So I kept cutting them back, until I felt I hit my magic number at 740mm. Bar width is definitely not one size fits all, and you’re absolutely right with the fact that too narrow is better than too wide.
Wide bars are good for track and downhill trail, but you will notice on a long paved road ride the wide bars will fatigue your arms and that's when you will want narrower bars.
Yeah she kind of lost me with this point from the very beginning. I think we’re well past the point of people believing that wider is better. it absolutely isn’t. Then I stopped watching when talking about tires. Getting the best tires you can get is the most important factor at improving your ride. Better traction, and puncture protection is good for everybody not just the “pros”!
760 bars are narrow today? Dang, I ride 740 and it is the widest I can go considering my narrow shoulders. 20 years ago I cut my 600mm to 580. Well…
Exactly - 760mm is hardly narrow. The correct width is based on your shoulders and riding stance, not what the bar manufacturer gives you... these days they are 800mm stock so you CAN cut them down as required.
Exactly, just because so many people are riding on 'stock' 800mm bars when they should be cutting them down to 760mm doesn't make 760mm narrow 😉
I'd love to see the tool pouches they're wearing under their jersey
I’m an XC rider in the US, the fact that 750mm bars are being called “narrow” is absolutely insane to me. I am riding 720mm bars which is what my bars came cut to, they give me tons of control and allow me to fit around most trees around where I ride. Some XC riders are using 690mm bars and they do fine! I live in the Midwest where there are barely any wide open park style trails, most trails are tight riding in the woods. I have been out to Colorado to winter park as well as Arizona and 720 bars are more than enough on DH trails there.
You should mention that Moir compares his setup with his dh setup when he says its soft… and soft for him would probably still blow out the kneecaps of most normal people…
And also that is something that would totally make sense for amateur riders, bc we rarely really know tracks that well that we can have comparable laps repeatedly… Amateurs should want a setup that is made for riding on sight, cause thats what most of them tend to do most of the time, even on their hometrails…
Lost me at rotor size. Theres brakes that modulate well and brakes that are on/off regardless of rotor size
My bars are 695mm and there perfectly fine
Thicker tire casing also allows for better cornering support using less tire air pressure. Tires are always going to be dependent on the terrain you ride and how heavy and hard you ride.
Depends on how smooth you ride more than how hard, I've seen people with skill make a course look easy that wipes out lesser mortals.
I think narrow bars are great with cornering, especially when you're close to trees, but I think you need some upper body strength to overcome the lack of leverage.
I went from 780mm to 800mm. Rode the 800mm for a while I cut the bars to 780 and it felt so good. I am 6’1 more neutral on the bike I felt like I was stretching forward with the wide bars
Interesting. I would never go back to small rotors. Why would you want less braking power. Modulation happens with your fingers, not the rotors.
I can agree with most of this video, but the dh casing tyres are a must where I live. And to make matters worse, can't get stock of tyres in Australia most of the time, so a sidewall tear can take you off the trails for quite some time.
Another point - copying geometry, big wheels, upsizing for super long reach and more stability at speed isn’t always best either. If you have tight slow techy trails at home, those bikes can be like steering a barge.
I rode a full suspension mountain bike back in 1996 (Giant ATX990 - John Tomac model) and rode it for years. Felt comfortable considering the bikes back then had what a lot of people would consider the handlebars "way to narrow." During the mid 2000's, I went roadie...put in a lot of miles and as much as I loved riding road bikes, I missed mountain biking a lot. I recently bought IBIS, with it's 780mm wide handlebars. I tried to get use to it, but it just didn't feel right. I experimented, moved the shifters in a little closer, and it felt a lot better. This made me decide to cut my handlebars down to 760mm. In my opinion, my bike feels a lot more comfortable at this width.
👌😅great vid, i will never be a pro, I just like to hit fast flowy trails, nothing too technical, because I'm still learning the basic skills, and my set up is what's comfortable for me👍
Here I was expecting someting more in-depth about geo and setup choices. The only think slightly applicable to the title is the tire choice. The rest of the video just touches some superficial setup choices in which personal preference plays almost a bigger role than speed... Bar width, brake rotor size, minimal kit, come on... If you ride small natural singletracks wider than 750 mm isn't even an option?!
I would be interested in:
What makes a certain geo work and how far off are pro bikes getting now from something that's usable at average Joe speeds?
How do pro's actually use their parts (show the actual speed, braking force, duration of max load)?
it was a poor episode, imho
Proper video! More narrow bars are definitely the go for every level of rider though, i’d say most people run their handlebars too wide and especially womens
I run 760 bars @5’10. I was running 780s and bought a 760 set just to try and it made the bike feel way easier to get around tight corners and quick right left turns and stuff for normal riding. IMO the long low and super wide bars stuff it’s just getting too much. Most my local trails my 460 reach large barely get around tight switchbacks and stuff let alone new 480+ larges.
I just switched from 203mm Shimano Saint brakes on a 180mm travel Haibike, to 220mm SRAM Code RS brakes on a 180mm travel Specialized Turbo Kenevo Expert, and I can't believe how much difference in braking power it has with the bigger rotors. The strongest DH Shimano 203mm brake setup has no where near as much power as the mid level 220mm SRAM brakes. I had zero problem modulating the braking power on either bike, both feel great. Now I am going to change the Saints to 220mm and not look back!
At 187cm and 95kg I should be on an XL frame but ride a L as you can chuck it around so much better. I ride a 29r but the bike being smaller it handles like a 27.5.
I run a 223mm rotor on the front.
I'm a bike park patroller so ride every day
Lol I absolutely love heavy duty (dirt) tires and narrow handlebars on my bike. Because Im already heavy myself and extra snakebite protection is totally worth the (irrelevant) extra weight tradeoff. And because I use my bike in (urban) traffic situations, too.
I was running dual ply tyres, but I find that tyre weight has the biggest effect on me when riding a bike, so I switched back to lighter tyres.
Honestly at 6'0" I love how my bike feels with 760mm bars. I wouldn't go wider.
Re: bar length. Everyone is running bars that are too long. I cut mine form 780 > 750 and I no longer get a sprained shoulder and I don't munt my knuckles on things.
No, it depends on build, posture and technique, it also depends on grips, I have a hardtail 29er with 800mm bars, but I run wider grips so I can change hand positions as I ride.
I'm 197cm tall with wide shoulders and 800mm bars are exactly the width of my hands in push up position. Feels great to me.
I’m just looking at current DH tread patterns which are very reminiscent of the old Specialized Ground Control of the late 90’s with a 2:1:2:1 centre block pattern.
would recommend DH casing to anyone who doesn't want to get flats
Another nice one. I just set my bike how I think is right for me. Suspension and cockpit setup.
Unless I absolutely have to, I will keep using 800mm bar, I don't think I can go any shorter without my elbows popping out of place, with 800mm it only does sometimes on gnarly or really rough stuff. They do that a lot with 720mmm on easy stuff, even a asphalt path, I am 181cm quite regular in upper body and arms I guess. my wrists are even worse, so I use wrist supports, so I don't miss corners any more due to not being able to brake properly cus of misaligned wrist.
I haven't got along with any shifters yet, but now I have Archer d1xtrail with paddle remote, great ergonomics, no extreme movement, and no fatigue, with mechanical my thumb could cause pain when it misaligned during a shift, so this is an important part of my cockpit setup. long enough reach, and high enough cockpit, have brake levers quite flat is important for me to relax my arms and hands. My hands just rest on the grips, and my arms are relaxed. This is another thing the pros do, but can't be done if your bike has too short reach, or very low cockpit, it will kink your wrists.
I actually Ride 760 Bars since i Started. I Tried bigger but didnt liked how much longer and less easy to move around the bike felt. Ive never ben a Fan of compression i Always have it Fully Open and i used to Ride a crazy amount of Rebounds. But i Tried a few clicks less and now the bike feels Just Dreams
downsizing your frame size is trend that should honestly be followed. I hate my current frame as it is way too big for me even though it was supposed to be the size for me. I could'nt lift my frontend up at all before, so I had to get spacers and high riser bar (50mm) to make it more comfy, but it didn't help much with the issue, as I still cannot manual or bunnyhop with this frame. Should always buy a frame that has the reach that makes sense to you.
It's all about personal preferences but for those just starting they don't know which knob does what or how to set up their bike. Following a pro riders setup could get them close then it's just learning how to make the adjustments to dial it in just right.
Ha! If I didn’t run DH casings I would be going through tires on my home trails every month. Big riders who ride aggressively need big rotors.
Maybe a better title would have been “Don’t ride an enduro setup unless you ride enduro trails.”
I agree with most of what you were saying apart from the width of handlebars. I run 750mm bars and I have so much more control over my bike when descending steep tight forest dh tracks. I don’t think shorter bars is something which should be just saved for the pros
I agree except for the second point. I live far away from my local trails and the finishing spot is really dangerous, so If I get a puncture as I finish my ride, I'm exposing myself to innecesary dangers, just to go across town again
Martin Maes is running 180mm rotors front & back
I went from 580mm bars straight to 800mm. 1992 bike to 2021 bike :-) getting back into MTB after a very long time!
If you're not over 6ft tall you might want to trim down those bars a tad. I'm 5'10" and on the bigger side and 780 is my preferred width but am also perfectly comfortable on 800s, but would trim them down if it were my own bike.
The vast majority of riders definitely don’t need 800 mm bars. They’re designed to be cut to fit. This is one of the biggest things riders overlook.
Exactly.
Any male rider over 6ft should probably be on 800s or wider unless they're built like a beanpole like Moir is. Optimal bar width is your comfortable push up hand width. 760-780 is the average range for your typical 5'8" to 5'10" male.
1:00 That's exactly how wide I like my bars. How is that bad?
Its not. She's saying to not just blindly cut your bars to the width that the pros use but instead use the bar width that works for you. Sounds like you're killing it in the latter area
Disagree with a lot of what she just said. Running 750 on bars any wider is a negative for me. Flats suck, I run enduro casing on the rear. Bikes have gotten to big for my liking. I do like to carry lots of water EWS track style trai;ls are ultra fun to ride, albeit I am going slower.
I have run 760mm bars on my last bike which sadly got stolen... And when i was in Austria i rode my friends secondary bike which i think had 740mm bars. The 760 felt alright and i can fit thru some stuff easily that i would have to slow down a lot with my current 800mm bars. The 740mm on my friends bike was too small. I will probably cut my new bars to 770mm but will first keep em at their original 780mm when they arrive.
PS: The bike i rode in Austria i think had 203mm front and rear. His main bike 220mm Front. I liked the feel of his huge brake! I would probably get used to it quick. Coming from cheap and weak 2piston brakes on a 180mm i also got used pretty fast to my current SLX 4piston on 203mm front and 180mm rear (180mm rear because Enduro hardtail) which are hella strong.
Bigger rotors seems to support modulation.
Some great top tips and safety reminders, thank you. We do in both fashion and bike bits follow the top riders.
I've run 780 on my xc and trail bikes and that feels fine. May try narrower but I don't really feel the need to. My enduro bike cam with 800 and that definitely feels too wide unless I am in the park.
I am a big fan of big brakes, though big for me is just 203s at each end. Though as a heavier rider I prefer a very progressive setup, especially out back. I understand why the pros want it as soft as they can get away with as they're trying to keep the bike on the ground where I prefer the bike to be a bit poppier and playful for fun riding rather than max speed.
It's funny to me that you call 760 bars "narrow"... I run 720 bars on all my bikes, I feel it is the perfect width. My newest bike came with 780 bars I think, it felt extremely wide, got stuck in trees even. Changed it to 720 and never looked back.
A pretty relevant video, thank you !
I think bar width come down to body type and comfort, I ran 800mm and they were way too wide, so I found what was a comfortable bench pressing width, 770mm, and they felt way better.
On a side note, can you please tell us about those kneepads you're wearing?
Doddy and I both usually wear Dainese Trail Skins. I think in my shots I’m wearing the Dainese Rival Pros, which are a tad more heavy duty. ☺️👍
@@AnnaOnTheBike thank you for replying!
Lol I’ve been running 720mm handle bars on my old Kona 5-0 hard tail. Definitely twitchy but fun.
I’m 5’3 what size of handle bars should I use?
i can agree on handle bar length water bottle or back pack disc brakes i get it and agree the tires i run a heavy bike as it is . purposely if i can push a heavy bike i build strength that i can use on my lite bike . i ride a lot human made trails or long forgotten trails so i run heavy tires even on my lite bike one regret is the fork i run it loose . i just can t dial in proper setting for my fork maybe some day i will play with it but not now
I'm also gonna mount 200 or 220 mm rotors on my next bike. Reason is, that i'm 115 kg right now. The weight difference between a 75 kg rider and me is much more important than the 5-10 kg an e-bike adds. And the 25 km/h limit means that in open areas they aren't faster and in the downhills an e-bike isn't faster either because the motor is not the limiting factor...
I'm 117kg and upgraded from 180 to 223 rotors. Totally worth the upgrade.
soft tune for pro riders is super hard for normal riders
I love my Dainese knee and elbow guards - you and Doddy are wearing the newer ones - how you like em?
I'd promote playing about with stem and bar combos I buy them second hand or cheap brand x ones before purchasing my preferred "forever" bar and stem combo. All companies follow suit now 800 wide 35mm stem, am tinkering with 50mm stem 770 wide +10 extra rise and its a different bike
From being a beginner to a pro rider I can tell you the biggest difference is suspension and brakes. It will make you a faster rider over night
Any bike no matter what type or style it is should be set up to fit the specific rider. Stack and reach are going to be the two most important metrics. And then suspension. The bike should be set up to the Riders experience level and capability. But also Bike setup should be fluid, meaning as a rider improves small changes would be made to match the riders ability.
Trail tyres might be ok for the Forest of Dean, but nothing but dh casing here in chamonix and finale
The brakes real do depend on the rider and you can set the same brakes up differently. What should the optimal handle bar width really be based on for one thing it's not just your height. For instance the width of your shoulders not all people of the same height have the width and yes to a degree the trails you ride can play in to that as well.
I run Enduro casing Der Kaisers for everything. Yeah, they are heavy but they offer the right balance of roll speed and grip for anything my erratic head will decide to hit. The casing is nice and firm.
I run big 203mm discs for the power. Big discs don't mean less modulation, they just require a bit of training and time to get used to.
I couldn't ride soft suspension. 20% is my happy place. There's nothing that's stopped me like that so far. If anything the bike feels better at 20% than 30%.
Some Pro stuff will work for the everyday rider. Just don't go overboard. Let those similarities be happy accidents and not a deliberate effort to impersonate the legends.
Narrower handlebars are legit depending on your wingspan (as is downsizing bikes that have overgrown so that bike companies can market 'new improved' geometry every year), it's not just to avoid trees, you also gain a lot of range of motion. 760 is plenty wide for most of the bell curve.
Heavy duty tires and big Rotors depends on weight and aggression.
For minimal kit, yes you should stay well hydrated. Depends on the ride length ofc.
Pros run soft compression because the biggest suspension sponsors (fox and RS, aka McDonalds and Burger King) have garbage dampers that spike (i.e. momentarily feels like a rigid bike) when you turn up the compression and slam into jaggedness at high speed. They're made to feel like silk at slow speed to sell to new riders. Actual quality dampers (like Manitou's) for faster/larger riders feel like shit at slow speeds and are smooth at high speed. It's rediculous that dampers are the biggest differentiator between a mid-range and high-end suspension but everyone opens them up so they do as little as possible.
I think all these trends are good. I mean - you can overdo it but most of the time these tips are good.
this is a great list
I take a backpack with me when I ride... where else are you gonna put the beer?!
What about the trend of having 38mm forks on bikes that are usually spec'd with 35-36mm? Is the extra stiffness worth the extra weight? Does it throw the balance off? I have a Canyon strive, which has a steep head angle compared to a lot of other enduro bikes. Most of the pros (like Jack) ride Strives with big Zeb forks. I am wondering if it would be a good upgrade for less than cliff drop trails. I am tempted by the new Rockshox forks but not sure if a 160mm Lyric (stock on my bike) or a 170-180mm Zen would be the way to go. There's not much difference in price. Anyone tried the swap?
I'm not a PRO.. I never was a PRO... I will NEVER BE a pro. (ok I'm Mediocre as my video's contest)..... SOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooo
I ride with a back pack with a bit more gear than I need... And to be honest.. I hardly use any of it...
A drink... Ok I use that... in it goes.. (And maybe a can for Top o' the hill.
A couple of muesli bars. May not need them.. but what if I end up stuck overnight... In they go. (and a lighter for a similar reason)
Thank BOB I have NEVER had to use the emergency blanket... but its plastic foil and ways near nothing... so in it goes..
There are plenty of things on mine, and others bikes, that undo with an Allen Key, so in goes that set..
I live in Wellington NZ.. where if you don't like the weather.... wait a minute... So in goes at least a light windbreaker (with a bit of Selleys Water Shield to keep 'some' water out)
Zip ties.... well their Zip ties.. So in they go... and electrician tape coz.. well see Zip Ties!... and a couple of standard bolts for good measure
A bit of rag... (What, you've never thrown a chain or helped someone that has)...
On that note... A chain breaker and joiners
Spare inner tube... coz I run Tubes y'all ! (and it's a Presta 27.5 coz at a pinch it will fit a 26 or 29 and any hole size incase it's 'that other rider').
A plastic tyre lever... Never had to use one, but maybe that other rider does...
A bike pump... coz my bikes too good for an external bracket... (Wait a minute.. I've got a Rivnut tool... why don't I MAKE a bottle mount! (slapping forehead)).
And a small roll of TP, flattened, in a waterproof bag.. because why not.
And the pack, smallish, canvas camo coz it was free... and all up, less than 3.5kg with 1lt drink and a 250ml can.
I'm about 77kg so that just makes me an 80kg MacGyver.
Anyone rock a heavier kit?
gmbn 760 is narrow
me with 710 thinking about 690 bars
I have a pro set up, while my skill level is a beginner. I'll never get to pro level, but at least my bike did lol
I’m 6’2” and 760 is pretty ideal for me. 800 is just not good at all tree wise nor feeling
Add progression if u run soft suspension
This just confirms GMBN as a channel for the lowest common denominator/masses of people dabbling in the sport/casual weekend warriors. Not people at the upper end of the spectrum. Pretty much all these tips, you'd essentially do the opposite if you're somewhat of a decent rider.
Comparto 100% sus comentarios.👍🏻
Most handle bar wides (790-800mm) are to wide for the average Joe imo.
I live here in norway and we basically just have tracks that Are not designd for bikes so we prob have to copy the pros since the trails we have Are filled with trees
I thinks it's very negative to tell people not to try something and to experiment with bike set up. Cutting bars, changing brake rotors or suspension settings are very inexpensive ways to find your dream set up. You will never know if something is right for you, until you give it a go!
You gotta find out what u like not chase someone else and always buy latest greatest
I definitely made the mistake of getting a heavy casing tyre, thinking it was the only way to avoid punctures 😂😂
Super brakes, puncture proof tyres and soft suspension. . what’s not to like about those??? I’d take those over the alternative every time, and do !
Its funny how they refer to 760mm handlebars as short in this video while my Norco Hardtail still has the stock 660mm handlebars on 🤣
I definetively ride on narrow bars, I use downhill tyres, and I have big rotors. But that's my own choice. I think the point of this video is nice, but not the actual content of it. It feels like you're basically telling us to not to do any of this, or maybe even assuming we're not capable of riding with certain of this things just because we're not pro. For example, you say most people can't modulate the braking power and it would be bad to use big rotors because of that. That's bs. I went from 160 to 203mm rotors and I got the hang of it in a few minutes. Yes, it's more powerful, but it also feels better once you get confortable with it, which is, certainly, a short period of time. I'm thinking of going up to 220mm rotors in a near future.
I just recently cut my OE bars down from 780 to 760 to 740, YT Izzo
Running 760mm i am 196cm tall . 27.5 wheels