I came here to get the terminology to translate installation manuals and I gotta say, I want this guy to do all instruction videos for everything. Calm, good voice, good explanations, good everything. Treasure this man, OttawaDesignAndBuild.
CANNOT beLIEVE - ADHESIVE-ONLY is even an option for having to support the ENTIRE weight of such a HEAVY SINK - not to MENTION the weight of it being filled with WATER and/or (for kitchen sinks) heavy DISPOSAL, DISHES and POTS! - DESPITE the existence and acceptability of relatively cheap and easy SCREW-IN mounting clips methods!? Whoever decided that was an IDIOT and/or GREEDY / CHEAP MEGA-BUILDER that had too much influence on the construction standards committee!? NO ADHESIVE lasts FOREVER!? Granted, neither do screw mounts, but they defo last HECK of a lot longer than adhesive - AND support MUCH more WEIGHT while doing so!? AND you can MUCH more easily INSPECT to see if they’re failing!? AND MUCH more easily REPAIR that failure (by tightening the screws and if necessary, injecting glue and re-drill)!?
A good way to do it is to use a trigger bar clamp. Take the end off slide it through the drain portion put a piece of wood under the sink reattach the end clamp and tighter it up Works like a charm
CANNOT beLIEVE - ADHESIVE-ONLY is even an option for having to support the ENTIRE weight of such a HEAVY SINK - not to MENTION the weight of it being filled with WATER and/or (for kitchen sinks) heavy DISPOSAL, DISHES and POTS! - DESPITE the existence and acceptability of relatively cheap and easy SCREW-IN mounting clips methods!? Whoever decided that was an IDIOT and/or GREEDY / CHEAP MEGA-BUILDER that had too much influence on the construction standards committee!? NO ADHESIVE lasts FOREVER!? Granted, neither do screw mounts, but they defo last HECK of a lot longer than adhesive - AND support MUCH more WEIGHT while doing so!? AND you can MUCH more easily INSPECT to see if they’re failing!? AND MUCH more easily REPAIR that failure (by tightening the screws and if necessary, injecting glue and re-drill)!?
You can put you don't get a real feel on pressure for such a small sink . On my double kitchen sink had the same idea as a jack but balance egh let you know actually I'm doing it now hence watching video
This is a great find. I'd kind of figured this out for myself but seeing it actually done bolsters my confidence a lot! Mine is a kitchen sink, a lot more room and I can nail in permanent wood supports on the sides, that's how the original is installed. Thank you! Now I'm hoping to get all the piping and garbage disposal stuff reinstalled water tight as well. What can possibly go wrong....
I found your channel recently and I love it. The trick you gave at the end seems superior and will definitely use it in my current home remodel Thanks!
I am watching this video because I have an under-mount sink that failed. The porcelain sink separated from the marble and fell down. Luckily the plumbing was strong enough to keep it from becoming a much bigger issue. The installer, a few years back, used epoxy ... not just silicone (he didn't use any brackets). I'm not a sink installer, but it seems that using brackets is a REALLY good idea. Many other videos show brackets all around the sink, affixing it to the solid surface counter.
I just broke the seal on my kitchen sink by standing in it (I know I know), but it didn't have supports, only glue on about 60% of the perimeter. Still held my weight for about 30 seconds.
Ikr?! CANNOT beLIEVE - ADHESIVE-ONLY is even an option for having to support the ENTIRE weight of such a HEAVY SINK - not to MENTION the weight of it being filled with WATER and/or (for kitchen sinks) heavy DISPOSAL, DISHES and POTS! - DESPITE the existence and acceptability of relatively cheap and easy SCREW-IN mounting clips methods!? Whoever decided that was an IDIOT and/or GREEDY / CHEAP MEGA-BUILDER that had too much influence on the construction standards committee!? NO ADHESIVE lasts FOREVER!? Granted, neither do screw mounts, but they defo last HECK of a lot longer than adhesive - AND support MUCH more WEIGHT while doing so!? AND you can MUCH more easily INSPECT to see if they’re failing!? AND MUCH more easily REPAIR that failure (by tightening the screws and if necessary, injecting glue and re-drill)!?
I purchased a kitchen with the counter top I noticed there wasn’t any mounting methods now what do I do ; go on TH-cam and research 🧐 and lucky me I come across your video; Jack pot ;so easy explained thank you so much it really helped me .
2 things to do differently that would make all the difference. You have to add clips or fasteners, The silicone will fail down the line unless you are using Mamba otherwise any other 100% silicone will fail no doubt about it. #2 Is for a porcelain sink like that what will look best is WHITE %100 silicone not Clear silicone. This makes it look way better and helps you see if there any gaps
CANNOT beLIEVE - ADHESIVE-ONLY is even an option for having to support the ENTIRE weight of such a HEAVY SINK - not to MENTION the weight of it being filled with WATER and/or (for kitchen sinks) heavy DISPOSAL, DISHES and POTS! - DESPITE the existence and acceptability of relatively cheap and easy SCREW-IN mounting clips methods!? Whoever decided that was an IDIOT and/or GREEDY / CHEAP MEGA-BUILDER that had too much influence on the construction standards committee!? NO ADHESIVE lasts FOREVER!? Granted, neither do screw mounts, but they defo last HECK of a lot longer than adhesive - AND support MUCH more WEIGHT while doing so!? AND you can MUCH more easily INSPECT to see if they’re failing!? AND MUCH more easily REPAIR that failure (by tightening the screws and if necessary, injecting glue and re-drill)!?
Thought this install was a little "rough" around the edges for my liking.... two 2x4s (one for across the counter with pads to protect, one for under the sink) some threaded rod through the drain hole with bolts and washers on each side would allow you to snugs it up nice without wrecking your cabinet or sliding the sink all over the place while you hammer shims.. for a large drain hole like a kitchen sink... swap the threaded rod for a clamp. You can also get retainers that epoxy to the underside of the counter top to help hold a full sink of water !
While I understand what you're trying to do here, I prefer a form of mechanical attachment. I've never installed any sink without hardware & what I deem proper support. It is always better to have too much strength and not need it than too little and need it. And maybe I'm just old school.
I hear you Trevor. I was a skeptic at first. My granite guy has installed hundreds of these last year alone and never has a call back. That is why I am sharing this now. And for everyone out there don't try this with just any silicone. GET THE STUFF RECOMMENDED IN THIS VIDEO. IT WORKS!
a small bottle jack or car jack from your vehicle would be a pretty easy way to also get that compression, just put a small piece of wood between the sink and jack so you don't damage the sink
Love your videos and this is another great one. I totally agree that with the correct adhesive no additional supports should be needed. The only thing left out of the video was how long should you leave the 2x4 support in place for the bond to be set? 24hrs before removal of supports or longer? Thanks
Appreciate the great content as always! Am installing a farm house sink under quartz soon, and always enjoy your approach on construction procedures. Keep up the great work 👍🏼
Hey there. Great video. I’m replacing an undercount sink in my bathroom today. The countertop is quartz. At Lowe’s, they recommended PL construction adhesive (for granite and marble) for securing the sink in place. Your thoughts?
I'm surprised he didn't use a block to spread the weight of the sink across the shelf, and to prevent scratching, especially if the shelf was only made of thin wood.
A Hercules sink harness would give the basin a proper support from collapsing ( has a cable-like structure ). Also, it makes it a lot easier for faucet installation, when the faucet and hoses are secured to the top of the sink prior to installing the basin. Otherwise, one has to sometimes turn into a contortionist during the faucet installation process.
Dang it. I don't think applying an unreal this way is safe in my trailer due to vibration. I thought about nesting the sink in two bar H of 'sticks' then adhering it also to the countertop. Any thoughts?
What adhesive do you recommend? Is 100% silicone really a stron enough adhesive? I need to reattach a porcelain bathroom sink that is sagging and about to fall. Can you say what exact brand and model adhesive? Thanks.
I have subscribed only recently and enjoy the videos. Being a DIYer probably not expert enough to comment though, I am old fashioned and would rather go for the sink clips/mounts and also use silicone sealant..but maybe over cautious.
hey love your videos man. superb knowledge. i can tell you know your stuff. it pays to learn from the best, and thats what i feel I'm doing when i watch you tutorials. thanks for sharing.
Heath, thanks for taking the time to say that dude. We are having a blast producing this channel. We have some awesome content in production right now. Stay tuned.
Do you have a preference for a negative, neutral, or positive cut for the sink hole in the countertop? I've been told negative shows a little of the sinks upper lip, neutral is flush with the top of the sink's walls, and positive has a little overhang (as it looks like the sink in your video does). How about for a laundry room utility sink?
@home renovision DIY Hey Jeff, I used PL premium for my powder room's oval porcelain sink undermounted to granit 10 years ago and it's still holding very well even though I didn't use any clips. TODAY I'm installing 2 rectangular undermounted sinks in masterbath vanity with PL Premuim Fast Grab without clips. What are you thoughts about your silicone adhesive VS PL premium (regular or FastGrab) ? THANKS !
A couple of questions I have. First, is there any problem with connecting the faucet to the counter top BEFORE you install the sink? It seems like it would sure be a lot easier to do then as opposed to after the sink is in. lastly, I will put a new garbage disposal in along with the new sink. If I use the 2x4 from the top using the threaded rod how long should I wait for the sink to setup with the silcone chalk before I put connect the garbage disposal? I suppose the label may say something on the chalk but if you would offer an opinion that would be great.
I'm installing one of these tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up on a couple of places I was iffy about! The countertop isn't in yet and I was going to assemble them upside down in the garage, but now I think I'll install the top first and do the sink from below the following day. The house has already surprised me on a several projects!
Hi. Doing a kitchen sink today to quartz in Vancouver. Hard to find Nuflex 302 bath ; is 302 general purpose ok? Cascade aquatech company also gave me a tub and tile Dow tube saying it is equivalent. Could u let me know what to use, have both now. Work is being done in 4 hours.
How do I know what measurement I want for the new sink? I have a granite top with an oval 16 1/2 by 13 1/2 hole. It does not currently have sink bowls in it
You could use that block of wood on top of bottle jack, it would prevent sink from moving when hammering, since you wont need hammer anymore =). much easier tool for various depths, & stronger compression
Thanks, interesting idea. I think i prefer my technique. it allows me to know how much pressure I am using and not risking breaking anything apart. A little compression goes a long way in this environment.
I like the idea of using a 2" by 4" , laid across the counter , and threaded rod , with nuts and washers on the top and bottom , to " bring the sink up tight" , rather than using the wood and shims . ( However , all you are ever doing is trying to get the job done . )
Any advice on silicone versus epoxy? An installer used silicone on our sink/counter installation and it came apart 2 weeks later. In my last house they used epoxy and it was fine. I know you mentioned that you had, quote, "the good stuff", and I assume they didn't, but do you recommend epoxy for a "forever" hold that can handle a sink full of puppy bathing, for example. ;-)
Awesome videos and always clear and informative. Just curious on the spacing in front and behind the sink. Is there a recommended length on a 19.5 inch vanity cabinet with a 12 and 5/8 inner sink opening as I see 3.5 inch front and 5 in the faucet area and reading that it should be larger like 4 in the front and 6 in the faucet area. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
BIG MISTAKE YOU DID Before you put silicone you MUST INSTALL YOUR FUCET AND HARDWARES TIGHT THEM ENOUGH ENOUGH THEN PUT THE SINK AND SILICONE. For long term safety of the sink would be best to secure ur sink with metal strip under the sink.
Great, clear video. Thanks for recording and posting. I'm reinstalling an oval Kohler basin (fairly heavy) to a granite counter that has an offset (non-centered) drain. After 20 years, the brownish sealant gave way, but I also discovered that the 4 undercounter clips that were there loose or had pulled out (there was evidence that one had been glued in, possibly due to a broken brass ferrule). These clips had a 1/4" hole drilled into the underside about a 1/4" deep. Knurled threaded brass (I'll call them) ferrules 'anchored' into the granite, with a 1/8" machine screw (1.25" long), then a flat steel slotted clip and wing nut with locking nut. I plan to use silicone caulk. Have figured out a support from below (will use shims per your suggestion- that's the 'magic'), and think I have a contraption using a board above and some rope through the offset drain (and another from the overflow hole, to balance the support. As to the clips, I plan to epoxy the anchors in (but that hole is so small, I'm not sure how successful that will be). I will have to proceed, but for others that come later, maybe you can offer advice on best approach. : Your video doesn't mention the clips; do you recognize them as described? Should I replace, and with what? I will have to proceed, but for others that come later, maybe you can offer advice on best approach.
I just got new quartz countertops installed in my Kitchen with undermount sinks. I previously had drop in sinks. Now my plumblng ABS pipes are too high to put the drainage pipe from the new sink into. Does this mean I have to rip out all my existing ABS pipes, and redo it all over again? Any good videos on how to do that for an inexperienced aspiring plumber like myself? Thanks!
Trust me, the liquid nailing or using epoxy to "glue" the blocks from the bottom WILL eventually "let go" and your sink WILL fall; my sink was put up this way many years ago, 10-12, and wanna guess why I'm looking at this video? It did hold for a good number of years, but we all know when everything fails lol. I wedged a 2X4 up under my sink to temp hold it up in place and used the liquid nails fuze-it to put the blocks back up; I left the 2X4 in place through the weekend to allow plenty of time to set completely. I then measured and cut 2X4s and screwed them up under the sink horizontally from end to end, using "L" brackets on the ends of the boards and screwing them boards under the blocks to "secure" the blocks in place; this way, I have the best of two ideas and doubt my sink will ever fall again...when I'm "least ready for it to fall" lol. I then used 100% brown silicone to seal the gap on the topside where the sink and counter meet; my counter is a brownish stone, so it looks really good. I secured the 2x4s at angles to push up flush against the blocks to even out the pressure across the face of the blocks. Im certain i could stand in my sink and it not budge; but wont be testing that confidence. ANY honest contractor will tell you that glued blocks will NOT hold forever, because I'm certain they get many a calls to fix them when they "let go". I hope this helps you.
How much gape should be between sink and granite isee alot of gap just got it install yesterday by company please answer me I want to complain about the job and how much overhang should be
I hate to jump on the bandwagon here, but I'm going to have to make the same comment that many others have - you should always add additional, permanent support to the underside of the sink via clips, brackets, and/or diagonal wood bracing to take the weight of the sink off the plumbing underneath. We just a bought a home that was renovated less than 3 yrs ago and our kitchen sink is already starting to sag and separate from the granite for this exact reason.
Hi my installers of undermount sink didn't do anything to hold up pressure (ie wedge wood under it or clamps like you did) after they placed undermount. Just put on silicone, screwed in clips and told me not to hang anything off it for 24hrs. Is skipping this step going to be an issue?
So I have an issue where when they installed my sink it partially sits on top of the cabinets. And now my sink is leaking in the middle front and back of sink. Their were no clips used or Hercules system. It looks like removing the sink would involve removing the quartz countertop. Is there any fix or recommendations for my scenario.
Thanks Rocket. I like it quick and simple. And no need to remember to drag out special materials from the shed or go shopping for special materials. Everyone has scrap wood and shims on a job site near the end.
Hi if I have a pre existing cabinet that is woot with a pre-existing cut out of an oval. Shall I find a undermount sink share within the diameter can I just saw out the difference and recycle nthe the cabinet by installing the undermount sink. Shall I find a slab of granite within the diameter of the cabinet surface is it feasible to just maybe have it then cut out the opening to be ulilized as the top surface of the cabinet. Contingent that it will do a seamless fit or covering.
Most definitely. It's a sink adhesive failure waiting to happen; probably when a beloved guest is using the sink ... then BAMM ... that sink's going ... DOWN!
This is my second video in this subject. The first one showed using clips to attach the sink. When do you need clips? Or is that just a matter if preference?
Great video! As a contractor I have thought about doing DIY videos but then I would have a myriad of jackasses commenting on how to do it better. Do you know of anyone willing to do some work on a cottage near Renfrew?
Interesting. So the counter top needs to be in place before the undermount sink. Before I thought the undermount sink much be installed before the countertop.
If the counter is not yet installed, I guess you can install in reverse mode and the gravity di the job or you even add extra pounds on it. Once set, just reverse it and install it.
grab a scissor jack from your car if its to high add a piece of wood below. Never done this before but thought most people have a car and those are pretty stander on all cars. I thought these sinks where bolted in place.
Which NuFlex silicon product are you using in this video, that doesn't need any mechanical support? Will this silicone work undermounting a SS double kitchen sink to Granite?
nuflex 302 for kitchen and bath. And yes it will mount sinks. In fact this is the product my favorite granite guy uses after testing everything on the market. He says he never gets call backs for falling sinks when he uses nuflex. That is why I use it.
kitchen sinks are different than bathrooms. They get filled with dishes and pots. I use a rod under my kitchen sink so the weight is transferred to the gable end of the cabinet and not on the stone.
I came here to get the terminology to translate installation manuals and I gotta say, I want this guy to do all instruction videos for everything. Calm, good voice, good explanations, good everything. Treasure this man, OttawaDesignAndBuild.
Cheers and Thank you!
CANNOT beLIEVE - ADHESIVE-ONLY is even an option for having to support the ENTIRE weight of such a HEAVY SINK - not to MENTION the weight of it being filled with WATER and/or (for kitchen sinks) heavy DISPOSAL, DISHES and POTS! - DESPITE the existence and acceptability of relatively cheap and easy SCREW-IN mounting clips methods!? Whoever decided that was an IDIOT and/or GREEDY / CHEAP MEGA-BUILDER that had too much influence on the construction standards committee!? NO ADHESIVE lasts FOREVER!? Granted, neither do screw mounts, but they defo last HECK of a lot longer than adhesive - AND support MUCH more WEIGHT while doing so!? AND you can MUCH more easily INSPECT to see if they’re failing!? AND MUCH more easily REPAIR that failure (by tightening the screws and if necessary, injecting glue and re-drill)!?
I did this with the jack that came with my Smart car. I put a piece of 1x3 on top of the jack to not damage the sink. Worked perfectly.
First thing I thought, car Jack would be perfect
A good way to do it is to use a trigger bar clamp. Take the end off slide it through the drain portion put a piece of wood under the sink reattach the end clamp and tighter it up
Works like a charm
CANNOT beLIEVE - ADHESIVE-ONLY is even an option for having to support the ENTIRE weight of such a HEAVY SINK - not to MENTION the weight of it being filled with WATER and/or (for kitchen sinks) heavy DISPOSAL, DISHES and POTS! - DESPITE the existence and acceptability of relatively cheap and easy SCREW-IN mounting clips methods!? Whoever decided that was an IDIOT and/or GREEDY / CHEAP MEGA-BUILDER that had too much influence on the construction standards committee!? NO ADHESIVE lasts FOREVER!? Granted, neither do screw mounts, but they defo last HECK of a lot longer than adhesive - AND support MUCH more WEIGHT while doing so!? AND you can MUCH more easily INSPECT to see if they’re failing!? AND MUCH more easily REPAIR that failure (by tightening the screws and if necessary, injecting glue and re-drill)!?
It's nice to have a helper when doing this, this guy is experienced so he can go solo
perfect. I'm going to use the threaded rod method to position the sink. Thanks a lot Jeff.
I found that using a wood clamp that has a detachable head is the easiest
we can also use a car jack for it.
Yup a small one.
Why not just use a wood bar clamp?
You can put you don't get a real feel on pressure for such a small sink . On my double kitchen sink had the same idea as a jack but balance egh let you know actually I'm doing it now hence watching video
This is a great find. I'd kind of figured this out for myself but seeing it actually done bolsters my confidence a lot! Mine is a kitchen sink, a lot more room and I can nail in permanent wood supports on the sides, that's how the original is installed. Thank you! Now I'm hoping to get all the piping and garbage disposal stuff reinstalled water tight as well. What can possibly go wrong....
Thanks brother, from your friend in the USA. Great video that helped me out a lot.
Scissors car jack works like a charm.
I found your channel recently and I love it.
The trick you gave at the end seems superior and will definitely use it in my current home remodel
Thanks!
I am watching this video because I have an under-mount sink that failed. The porcelain sink separated from the marble and fell down. Luckily the plumbing was strong enough to keep it from becoming a much bigger issue. The installer, a few years back, used epoxy ... not just silicone (he didn't use any brackets). I'm not a sink installer, but it seems that using brackets is a REALLY good idea. Many other videos show brackets all around the sink, affixing it to the solid surface counter.
My sink just collapsed too and it was held up without brackets 🙃
Don't you need any support brackets to hold it? I thought silicon isn't enough to hold the weight of the sink
Yes they are supposed to have brackets
I just broke the seal on my kitchen sink by standing in it (I know I know), but it didn't have supports, only glue on about 60% of the perimeter. Still held my weight for about 30 seconds.
Yes, this guy is an amateur
Ikr?!
CANNOT beLIEVE - ADHESIVE-ONLY is even an option for having to support the ENTIRE weight of such a HEAVY SINK - not to MENTION the weight of it being filled with WATER and/or (for kitchen sinks) heavy DISPOSAL, DISHES and POTS! - DESPITE the existence and acceptability of relatively cheap and easy SCREW-IN mounting clips methods!? Whoever decided that was an IDIOT and/or GREEDY / CHEAP MEGA-BUILDER that had too much influence on the construction standards committee!? NO ADHESIVE lasts FOREVER!? Granted, neither do screw mounts, but they defo last HECK of a lot longer than adhesive - AND support MUCH more WEIGHT while doing so!? AND you can MUCH more easily INSPECT to see if they’re failing!? AND MUCH more easily REPAIR that failure (by tightening the screws and if necessary, injecting glue and re-drill)!?
@@parrisestatessouthernhomec3246not necessary with quality adhesive
I purchased a kitchen with the counter top I noticed there wasn’t any mounting methods now what do I do ; go on TH-cam and research 🧐 and lucky me I come across your video; Jack pot ;so easy explained thank you so much it really helped me .
2 things to do differently that would make all the difference. You have to add clips or fasteners, The silicone will fail down the line unless you are using Mamba otherwise any other 100% silicone will fail no doubt about it. #2 Is for a porcelain sink like that what will look best is WHITE %100 silicone not Clear silicone. This makes it look way better and helps you see if there any gaps
Jesus, thank you for this comment. If possible, can you tell me which clips to use and where/how are they attached. Many thanks.
My kitchn sink failed because they didn't use clips
@@twinmama16 uuggghhh…so sorry TM. I’ve never had an undermount but an install using adhesive alone just doesn’t sound right.
@twinmama16 same here! Middle of the night, deep kitchen sink half-filled with water and dishes. Total mess!
CANNOT beLIEVE - ADHESIVE-ONLY is even an option for having to support the ENTIRE weight of such a HEAVY SINK - not to MENTION the weight of it being filled with WATER and/or (for kitchen sinks) heavy DISPOSAL, DISHES and POTS! - DESPITE the existence and acceptability of relatively cheap and easy SCREW-IN mounting clips methods!? Whoever decided that was an IDIOT and/or GREEDY / CHEAP MEGA-BUILDER that had too much influence on the construction standards committee!? NO ADHESIVE lasts FOREVER!? Granted, neither do screw mounts, but they defo last HECK of a lot longer than adhesive - AND support MUCH more WEIGHT while doing so!? AND you can MUCH more easily INSPECT to see if they’re failing!? AND MUCH more easily REPAIR that failure (by tightening the screws and if necessary, injecting glue and re-drill)!?
This guy sounds like RedGreen, that's a compliment!
you can also use a board under the hole a board on top wider than the cut out and twist a strong piece of wire to pull them together
Thought this install was a little "rough" around the edges for my liking.... two 2x4s (one for across the counter with pads to protect, one for under the sink) some threaded rod through the drain hole with bolts and washers on each side would allow you to snugs it up nice without wrecking your cabinet or sliding the sink all over the place while you hammer shims.. for a large drain hole like a kitchen sink... swap the threaded rod for a clamp. You can also get retainers that epoxy to the underside of the counter top to help hold a full sink of water !
I would imagine a bottle jack would do wonders there if you didn't get carried away with it.
I used the jack in my Nissan to lift the kitchen finished floor back to level for nex step collected my money job done
Thinking same thing
While I understand what you're trying to do here, I prefer a form of mechanical attachment. I've never installed any sink without hardware & what I deem proper support. It is always better to have too much strength and not need it than too little and need it.
And maybe I'm just old school.
I hear you Trevor. I was a skeptic at first. My granite guy has installed hundreds of these last year alone and never has a call back. That is why I am sharing this now. And for everyone out there don't try this with just any silicone. GET THE STUFF RECOMMENDED IN THIS VIDEO. IT WORKS!
Trevor Castleman I agree. Glue isn’t durable. My undermount sink dropped twice during 20 years.
@@albertwilkes4858 not bad for 20 yrs of service.
I am repairing a sink installed in our kitchen like this now. It only made it about a year and a half.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY what stuff is recommended it’s hard to hear
a small bottle jack or car jack from your vehicle would be a pretty easy way to also get that compression, just put a small piece of wood between the sink and jack so you don't damage the sink
a little over kill but I get the point.
I recommend to use the car jack from your car for lifting the sink. very convenient.
Love you jeff
Love your videos and this is another great one. I totally agree that with the correct adhesive no additional supports should be needed. The only thing left out of the video was how long should you leave the 2x4 support in place for the bond to be set? 24hrs before removal of supports or longer? Thanks
I'd say however long the manufacturer says on the bottle for full cure, then add a day.
Appreciate the great content as always! Am installing a farm house sink under quartz soon, and always enjoy your approach on construction procedures. Keep up the great work 👍🏼
Thanks LB, not to worry. we have a huge pile of videos in production.
take the counter top off, flip it over, glue the sinks and use some sort of mechanical fastning, never rely on glue alone to hold your sink.
In fact you need to install brackets anyway
Hey there. Great video. I’m replacing an undercount sink in my bathroom today. The countertop is quartz. At Lowe’s, they recommended PL construction adhesive (for granite and marble) for securing the sink in place. Your thoughts?
How did it go?
@@bestdavidkim it went very well. Thanks for asking.
I'm surprised he didn't use a block to spread the weight of the sink across the shelf, and to prevent scratching, especially if the shelf was only made of thin wood.
Thanks for scratching my cabinet lol
Thank you! This is very helpful !
Always a great video 👍🏻
What holds the sink there? Is the silicone enough to hold the sink?
So the adhesive silicone is supposed to hold up the sink??
A Hercules sink harness would give the basin a proper support from collapsing ( has a cable-like structure ). Also, it makes it a lot easier for faucet installation, when the faucet and hoses are secured to the top of the sink prior to installing the basin. Otherwise, one has to sometimes turn into a contortionist during the faucet installation process.
Thank you for mentioning this option, I hadn't heard of these.
Dang it. I don't think applying an unreal this way is safe in my trailer due to vibration. I thought about nesting the sink in two bar H of 'sticks' then adhering it also to the countertop. Any thoughts?
What adhesive do you recommend? Is 100% silicone really a stron enough adhesive? I need to reattach a porcelain bathroom sink that is sagging and about to fall. Can you say what exact brand and model adhesive? Thanks.
I have subscribed only recently and enjoy the videos. Being a DIYer probably not expert enough to comment though, I am old fashioned and would rather go for the sink clips/mounts and also use silicone sealant..but maybe over cautious.
hey love your videos man. superb knowledge. i can tell you know your stuff. it pays to learn from the best, and thats what i feel I'm doing when i watch you tutorials. thanks for sharing.
Heath, thanks for taking the time to say that dude. We are having a blast producing this channel. We have some awesome content in production right now. Stay tuned.
What kind of adhesive did he use?
knowledgeable Video. Thanks a lot
You could use a simple car jack to hold sink in place
Do you have a preference for a negative, neutral, or positive cut for the sink hole in the countertop? I've been told negative shows a little of the sinks upper lip, neutral is flush with the top of the sink's walls, and positive has a little overhang (as it looks like the sink in your video does). How about for a laundry room utility sink?
what silicone type it useful for this task ?
What type of silicon you have used ?
Excellent tutorial..... but I use a car jack to lift the sink into place..... sooo much easier....
@home renovision DIY Hey Jeff, I used PL premium for my powder room's oval porcelain sink undermounted to granit 10 years ago and it's still holding very well even though I didn't use any clips. TODAY I'm installing 2 rectangular undermounted sinks in masterbath vanity with PL Premuim Fast Grab without clips. What are you thoughts about your silicone adhesive VS PL premium (regular or FastGrab) ? THANKS !
Is it possible to use an hydraulic car jack and a piece of wood?
A couple of questions I have. First, is there any problem with connecting the faucet to the counter top BEFORE you install the sink? It seems like it would sure be a lot easier to do then as opposed to after the sink is in. lastly, I will put a new garbage disposal in along with the new sink. If I use the 2x4 from the top using the threaded rod how long should I wait for the sink to setup with the silcone chalk before I put connect the garbage disposal? I suppose the label may say something on the chalk but if you would offer an opinion that would be great.
It’s going to be held in place by a thin bead of silicone? What about the clips and screws that actually come with the sink?
I'm installing one of these tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up on a couple of places I was iffy about! The countertop isn't in yet and I was going to assemble them upside down in the garage, but now I think I'll install the top first and do the sink from below the following day. The house has already surprised me on a several projects!
Thanks for watching Phil and good luck with your project.
After 11 months?
Love all your videos excellent thanks
So it's only held up by the silicone?
Hi. Doing a kitchen sink today to quartz in Vancouver. Hard to find Nuflex 302 bath ; is 302 general purpose ok? Cascade aquatech company also gave me a tub and tile Dow tube saying it is equivalent. Could u let me know what to use, have both now. Work is being done in 4 hours.
How do I know what measurement I want for the new sink? I have a granite top with an oval 16 1/2 by 13 1/2 hole. It does not currently have sink bowls in it
Hi. Have you installed Top Zero sinks? We are thinking on installing one and our fabricator advice not to because it is sealed with epoxy.
You could use that block of wood on top of bottle jack, it would prevent sink from moving when hammering, since you wont need hammer anymore =). much easier tool for various depths, & stronger compression
Thanks, interesting idea. I think i prefer my technique. it allows me to know how much pressure I am using and not risking breaking anything apart. A little compression goes a long way in this environment.
I like the idea of using a 2" by 4" , laid across the counter , and threaded rod , with nuts and washers on the top and bottom , to " bring the sink up tight" , rather than using the wood and shims . ( However , all you are ever doing is trying to get the job done . )
2x4 with a clamp
Any advice on silicone versus epoxy? An installer used silicone on our sink/counter installation and it came apart 2 weeks later. In my last house they used epoxy and it was fine. I know you mentioned that you had, quote, "the good stuff", and I assume they didn't, but do you recommend epoxy for a "forever" hold that can handle a sink full of puppy bathing, for example. ;-)
I wonder if it would be possible to use a small jack with a rubber piece as to not damage the sink to hold it in place.
perhaps!
Awesome videos and always clear and informative. Just curious on the spacing in front and behind the sink. Is there a recommended length on a 19.5 inch vanity cabinet with a 12 and 5/8 inner sink opening as I see 3.5 inch front and 5 in the faucet area and reading that it should be larger like 4 in the front and 6 in the faucet area. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
BIG MISTAKE YOU DID
Before you put silicone you MUST INSTALL YOUR FUCET AND HARDWARES TIGHT THEM ENOUGH ENOUGH THEN PUT THE SINK AND SILICONE.
For long term safety of the sink would be best to secure ur sink with metal strip under the sink.
What’s the silicone called, and can you should the steps for laying out and courting into butchers block kitchen sinks
was any sink clips used or just glue?
Wait u can use silicone to hold up the entire weight of a sink?
Can an undermount kitchen sink be installed as a top mount?
Great, clear video. Thanks for recording and posting. I'm reinstalling an oval Kohler basin (fairly heavy) to a granite counter that has an offset (non-centered) drain. After 20 years, the brownish sealant gave way, but I also discovered that the 4 undercounter clips that were there loose or had pulled out (there was evidence that one had been glued in, possibly due to a broken brass ferrule). These clips had a 1/4" hole drilled into the underside about a 1/4" deep. Knurled threaded brass (I'll call them) ferrules 'anchored' into the granite, with a 1/8" machine screw (1.25" long), then a flat steel slotted clip and wing nut with locking nut.
I plan to use silicone caulk. Have figured out a support from below (will use shims per your suggestion- that's the 'magic'), and think I have a contraption using a board above and some rope through the offset drain (and another from the overflow hole, to balance the support. As to the clips, I plan to epoxy the anchors in (but that hole is so small, I'm not sure how successful that will be).
I will have to proceed, but for others that come later, maybe you can offer advice on best approach.
: Your video doesn't mention the clips; do you recognize them as described? Should I replace, and with what? I will have to proceed, but for others that come later, maybe you can offer advice on best approach.
So the silicon will hold up the sink by itself?! No clips no 2x4 ?
I just got new quartz countertops installed in my Kitchen with undermount sinks. I previously had drop in sinks. Now my plumblng ABS pipes are too high to put the drainage pipe from the new sink into. Does this mean I have to rip out all my existing ABS pipes, and redo it all over again? Any good videos on how to do that for an inexperienced aspiring plumber like myself? Thanks!
Yea just redo it from the branch that goes into your stack
@@paulmarclalonde3834 All done. It was not as difficult as I thought it would be.
What’s the brand of silicone? I missed that part
nuflex! Cheers!
and then what do you do win the silicone breaks loose and the sink comes crashing down?
Trust me, the liquid nailing or using epoxy to "glue" the blocks from the bottom WILL eventually "let go" and your sink WILL fall; my sink was put up this way many years ago, 10-12, and wanna guess why I'm looking at this video? It did hold for a good number of years, but we all know when everything fails lol. I wedged a 2X4 up under my sink to temp hold it up in place and used the liquid nails fuze-it to put the blocks back up; I left the 2X4 in place through the weekend to allow plenty of time to set completely. I then measured and cut 2X4s and screwed them up under the sink horizontally from end to end, using "L" brackets on the ends of the boards and screwing them boards under the blocks to "secure" the blocks in place; this way, I have the best of two ideas and doubt my sink will ever fall again...when I'm "least ready for it to fall" lol. I then used 100% brown silicone to seal the gap on the topside where the sink and counter meet; my counter is a brownish stone, so it looks really good. I secured the 2x4s at angles to push up flush against the blocks to even out the pressure across the face of the blocks. Im certain i could stand in my sink and it not budge; but wont be testing that confidence. ANY honest contractor will tell you that glued blocks will NOT hold forever, because I'm certain they get many a calls to fix them when they "let go". I hope this helps you.
Is GE 100% Silicone Supreme okay to use? That's what I bought. I have to replace a chipped sink mounted below a marble top.
So silicon is enough to hold the sink in place ??
How much gape should be between sink and granite isee alot of gap just got it install yesterday by company please answer me I want to complain about the job and how much overhang should be
I hate to jump on the bandwagon here, but I'm going to have to make the same comment that many others have - you should always add additional, permanent support to the underside of the sink via clips, brackets, and/or diagonal wood bracing to take the weight of the sink off the plumbing underneath. We just a bought a home that was renovated less than 3 yrs ago and our kitchen sink is already starting to sag and separate from the granite for this exact reason.
small scissor jack or bottle jack for lift and compression
What if you can’t put the sink in after the countertop is already on the cabinet?
Hi my installers of undermount sink didn't do anything to hold up pressure (ie wedge wood under it or clamps like you did) after they placed undermount. Just put on silicone, screwed in clips and told me not to hang anything off it for 24hrs. Is skipping this step going to be an issue?
So I have an issue where when they installed my sink it partially sits on top of the cabinets. And now my sink is leaking in the middle front and back of sink. Their were no clips used or Hercules system. It looks like removing the sink would involve removing the quartz countertop. Is there any fix or recommendations for my scenario.
So with that silicone it won't come undone and fall ?
great technique ! learned a lot, thanks.
Thanks Rocket. I like it quick and simple. And no need to remember to drag out special materials from the shed or go shopping for special materials. Everyone has scrap wood and shims on a job site near the end.
You are a life saver!! Doing this today.
I like your videos better with the black eye bring that back. Thanks for the video
Hi if I have a pre existing cabinet that is woot with a pre-existing cut out of an oval. Shall I find a undermount sink share within the diameter can I just saw out the difference and recycle nthe the cabinet by installing the undermount sink. Shall I find a slab of granite within the diameter of the cabinet surface is it feasible to just maybe have it then cut out the opening to be ulilized as the top surface of the cabinet. Contingent that it will do a seamless fit or covering.
You can definitely find a sink with the same diameter and profile. Cheers!
Clips bro! Down the line that thing is going to fall.
Most definitely. It's a sink adhesive failure waiting to happen; probably when a beloved guest is using the sink ... then BAMM ... that sink's going ... DOWN!
You can also flip the cabinet upside down install the sink and wait for gravity to do the compression before flipping it back up.
But you cant wipe up them mess when it's inverted
Was hoping to see how you made the template for cutting out the countertop.
Can you under mount a sink to laminate counter top?
Wouldn't the paper towel leave behind little bits?
This is my second video in this subject. The first one showed using clips to attach the sink. When do you need clips? Or is that just a matter if preference?
This is simple procedure for installing small sinks. I would suggest using clips for larger sinks only.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY
Like in a kitchen.
New flex sealer?
Great video! As a contractor I have thought about doing DIY videos but then I would have a myriad of jackasses commenting on how to do it better.
Do you know of anyone willing to do some work on a cottage near Renfrew?
Interesting. So the counter top needs to be in place before the undermount sink. Before I thought the undermount sink much be installed before the countertop.
Won't this sink fell down after some time
If the counter is not yet installed, I guess you can install in reverse mode and the gravity di the job or you even add extra pounds on it. Once set, just reverse it and install it.
grab a scissor jack from your car if its to high add a piece of wood below. Never done this before but thought most people have a car and those are pretty stander on all cars. I thought these sinks where bolted in place.
You could have also put a 2X4 in the bottom to support the 2X4 you have in the upper part...
Anyone know what silicone he used?
Which NuFlex silicon product are you using in this video, that doesn't need any mechanical support? Will this silicone work undermounting a SS double kitchen sink to Granite?
nuflex 302 for kitchen and bath. And yes it will mount sinks. In fact this is the product my favorite granite guy uses after testing everything on the market. He says he never gets call backs for falling sinks when he uses nuflex. That is why I use it.
So, the acid in the sealant will not react with a stainless steel sink?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY do you still recommend this product today?
Why zoom in on his face? Lol
I just checked my kitchen sink, it has silicon and support brackets all the way
around.
kitchen sinks are different than bathrooms. They get filled with dishes and pots. I use a rod under my kitchen sink so the weight is transferred to the gable end of the cabinet and not on the stone.
Could you please make a video on how to measure kitchen cabinets?
We will be doing another kitchen project later this year.