I went to grab a hug for one of my 1/10 and a can of paint. I decided to look at the tools in store. Walked up to the hobby mechanic with 3 sets and before I said anything he said, the M.I.P. So went to check out and it came to $80+. 😳 What the heck did I buy? Hub, paint and 3 hex drivers. Well noticed that the 3 MIP were $50+. I said these better be the best tools I've ever used or I'm bringing them back. Needless to say I still have them and will never use another brand. Fit like a glove with no wiggle room and the top being flat not slightly curved like the rest, help keep you from stripping. 🤙 Thanks for the vid. 💯🔥
I'm glad you cleared that up, I was so tired of stopping my run every 3 minutes to refresh my diffs and every 5 minutes to inspect my shocks. 🤣 Man I really need to learn how to read. 🤔 😁 I kid I kid. Jk lol
Ok, Last one. One of the most overlooked parts of an RC has to be the front and rear main input gears. 1 tooth square off barely noticeable can have you chasing a noise all over the place. And may have to look closely to see any slight damage. One way to know which is making noise and a slight grind is, if it only happens on throttle I more than likely is the rear. If it does it when breaking hard, it is more than likely the front. 👍
I noticed in the long term, bearing wear/play in the diffs becomes a factor also, at least with the stock bearings anyway. Also recently, I replaced a diff that had an issue with one that didn't and retained the ring gear. I didn't notice any play but It Started stripping on the second run. I replaced the gears and it's fine now, but I'm wondering now if I should have tried another shim first. Gears aren't cheap, but the wear is hard to gauge.
I came across this video because I’m new to the hobby and I don’t know anything about it (hence the TH-cam search for info on the diffs) great info in the video, and at the great risk of sounding like a snowflake may be try being a little less condescending
I went through a few crown gears on this platform before I discovered what diff shims were but that was back in the day when Arrma didn’t send them in the box with a new truck. I usually go 1 or 2 full runs before I install the second shim. After I learned this I’ve never had any more problems with stripping diffs on this platform. I think with any hobby some things come naturally and some things you just have to learn the hard way. Hopefully your video will enlighten people before they go through what I did when I first started lmao.
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I went to grab a hug for one of my 1/10 and a can of paint. I decided to look at the tools in store. Walked up to the hobby mechanic with 3 sets and before I said anything he said, the M.I.P. So went to check out and it came to $80+. 😳 What the heck did I buy? Hub, paint and 3 hex drivers. Well noticed that the 3 MIP were $50+. I said these better be the best tools I've ever used or I'm bringing them back. Needless to say I still have them and will never use another brand. Fit like a glove with no wiggle room and the top being flat not slightly curved like the rest, help keep you from stripping. 🤙 Thanks for the vid. 💯🔥
I'm glad you cleared that up, I was so tired of stopping my run every 3 minutes to refresh my diffs and every 5 minutes to inspect my shocks. 🤣 Man I really need to learn how to read. 🤔 😁 I kid I kid. Jk lol
I don’t see why people hate on the diffs. The shit these trucks go through on a general basis is pretty sad lol. Keep up the good work.
Ok, Last one. One of the most overlooked parts of an RC has to be the front and rear main input gears. 1 tooth square off barely noticeable can have you chasing a noise all over the place. And may have to look closely to see any slight damage. One way to know which is making noise and a slight grind is, if it only happens on throttle I more than likely is the rear. If it does it when breaking hard, it is more than likely the front. 👍
I know. Old vid. But the diffs aren't the bad part, it's the pins inside the diff. They break so easily. But th3re is a remedy.
@@tonysmith7989 i heard! I'll use my own pins if these break. No issues so far.
I noticed in the long term, bearing wear/play in the diffs becomes a factor also, at least with the stock bearings anyway. Also recently, I replaced a diff that had an issue with one that didn't and retained the ring gear. I didn't notice any play but It Started stripping on the second run. I replaced the gears and it's fine now, but I'm wondering now if I should have tried another shim first. Gears aren't cheap, but the wear is hard to gauge.
“Think you can go 90 with it, and…. You can’t!” Lol😂
Just so you know all you have to do is take off the sway bars and take the diff case off
The shocks don't get in the way?
I came across this video because I’m new to the hobby and I don’t know anything about it (hence the TH-cam search for info on the diffs) great info in the video, and at the great risk of sounding like a snowflake may be try being a little less condescending
I'll do my better. I'm a smart ass and don't really mean to be a dick. I just have a big mouth.
I went through a few crown gears on this platform before I discovered what diff shims were but that was back in the day when Arrma didn’t send them in the box with a new truck. I usually go 1 or 2 full runs before I install the second shim. After I learned this I’ve never had any more problems with stripping diffs on this platform. I think with any hobby some things come naturally and some things you just have to learn the hard way. Hopefully your video will enlighten people before they go through what I did when I first started lmao.
How can I see the video of you doing the back of the truck I was wondering if you had to take the whole bottom chassis off thanks for this video
No. It's great. You open them from the ends. Great design.