Electric Motorcycle E-Bike Build - Ep 4: Complete 5.6kWh Battery Build - 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Hello folks, and welcome back to the e-bike build series! In this video I'm going to show you how I repurposed M50lt cells that I salvaged from warehouse robot batteries to build a 5.6kWh li-ion battery for my custom electric motorcycle, and used my 3D printer and laser engraver/cutter to make an enclosure for them.
E-moto Gen II project playlist:
• E-Moto Gen II Build
M50LT modules that I repurposed:
batteryhookup....
Nickel strips:
gridrewired.co...
High speed PETG filament:
3dprintingcana...
3mm acrylic sheet:
plasticworld.c...
kWeld spot welder:
gridrewired.co...
Qidi XMAX 3 CoreXY 3D Printer:
US - s.zbanx.com/r/...
EU - s.zbanx.com/r/...
Battery strip ampacity chart:
evolveforums.c...
Copper bus bar ampacity chart:
www.copper.org...
Wire size calculator:
www.omnicalcul...
#electricmotorcycle #ebike #emoto #diybattery
My website: www.resystech.com
Support me on Patreon or TH-cam and earn membership perks:
/ resystech
/ @jamesbiggar
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/ renewablesystemstechno...
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The attention to detail is amazing. I am eagerly waiting for rest of the build. You are an inspiration. I still can't believe so much power in 5.7kwh.
You definitely know, understand and love what you are doing 💪. Watching from 🇰🇪
James, i love your content the story telling is definitely getting better, the information is always the best thanks man, ypu inspire me to make my own electronic builds. Ill be making one soon. Again thanks for the inspiration.
Can't wait for the fully completed ride!!
Hey... Please continue the series brother
heads up: you need a special fire extinguisher for lithium. also its probably best just to put it outside and let it burn itself out; lithium battery fires tend to quickly consume the oxygen in a room.
For sure, let it burn itself out (cue the fire proof container). I mean a fire extinguisher in case the battery fire starts another fire. I don't think folks want to let their homes or workshops burn themselves out lol.
vazar dux better
@@JamesBiggar
Ok lol.
Ah! Human-made electronic witchcraft beyond my comprehension 💛
Finally out dream bike coming true
All I can say is...HOLY CRAP. James, I have been a long time subscriber of your channel, I love your attention to detail and engineering that you put into your projects. You really should bring some of your builds to SEMA or something here in the States. I would love to see your work in person. Thanks for making these great videos.
So excited for this new bike bro
When I made my gigantic 14S battery, I used the 2P / 4P nickel strip. Can recommend.
Those packs look MEAN!!!!😍😍😍😍
I have so much to learn with battery building
Excellent styling. Make an awesome product.
Detail is amazing. Awesome build!
Awsom build, cant wait for the rest, excellent work.
Brilliant!!
Trabalho impecável e seguro! Congratulations!
found channel randomly recently subscribed thank you youtube
great battery build...holy poop...love it...great channel...
The omnipresent God that lives within you is a genius 🙏
Very nice video, enjoyed it a lot :D
Great video, I really like that you go deep into detail as making lithium batteries is not simples at all.
I am curious about that amount of current going through the terminal bolts and not directly to the busbar, checking with a thermal camera when you have it working would be really nice.
Keep it up
Thanks! Your videos are pretty good too. Good point about the terminal. M10 brass bolt should handle up to 200A ok, I'll only be using around 160-180 most of the time. But I think stainless needs 40% more cross sectional area, so around M12 to handle the continuous current. I'm pushing it. I'll probably add some copper or brass washers to space between the busbars and cable lugs to take some of the load off the terminals.
You'll probably be fine but try to check the temperature with the design as is and if need be add some copper or brass washers.
I'm eager to see a test drive! @@JamesBiggar
When u complete sir am excited 🎉
I'm sure this is not worth the re-print but you could put the polarity/voltage you are expecting out of the terminals into the plastic of the box.
Excelente!!!
I've been paying attention since the beginning, and I love the style you've gone with this build. Combining 3d printing with other materials. I'm using this concept in my next conversion (a much smaller moped, only a 25 pound 2kwh battery). I'm very much looking forward to seeing how you're going to mount and fasten the 2 battery cases into the frame of your bike, because I'm trying to figure that out now. Any hints?
electric power!!!!!!⚡⚡⚡⚡
Excellent idea, I had something similar in mind for the 24s20p 32700 lifepo4 battery. Can you share the STL files? I like your channel too much
I want to see what cooling/ temp control options there will be for this. Planning on doing something similar
I actually might build my first motorcycle rather than buying one ! with like a 5000$ budjet instead of 15K
for 5k you can but new e-motorcycle
Not a very good one, though. Most people are looking for double digit hp lol
Stl the project
Can i ask why we need to clean the cell left over nickel strip?? Since we oso going to weid a new nickel strip on top??
The og welds were weak and covered in epoxy. Epoxy needs to be removed to layer over top. easier to take the entire strio off with the epoxy and start from scratch than to spend the same time scraping epoxy with a risk of connectivity issues. If the nickel is clean and in good condition, then you can weld more layers over the old strips.
is ep5 out yet? cant find it
Nice, can we download 3d model somewhere?
Eventually.
is the clear epoxy on the bus bar screws better than a threadlocker?
If you don't have conductive threadlocker on hand. Otherwise, conventional threadlocker would insulate the connection.
What is the software / tester you used when validating the quality of the used battery?
That was just a multimeter
Actually it was the EBC-A40l tester 1:40
Did you test all the batteries individually?
Yes, individually and in p groups. Always test every cell, especially if they're used, and after connecting them into p groups - this effectively turns multiple cells into one large cell. Each p group should have the same capacity. If they don't then one or more cells are lacking or have a very different IR than the rest and needs to be addressed. That's why it's best to check and match individually before assembling the p groups, then double check after assembly.
@@JamesBiggar what was the amount that you didn't use?
How much is the capacity in kwh both combined ?
~5.7 kWh