Nice job explaining everything along the way while taking it apart. It seems that always happens, once you get something apart you see more items you want to replace or need to replace. That clutch drum sure did look like it had been hot at some point. After waiting on parts for a couple of weeks it was probably warmer when you got it done. LOL Thanks for posting the video and showing how the clutch works on a Yamaha.
It was a bit warmer for sure, but still cold enough in the garage to warrant running a heater! It's always the way though. Nothing like doing a stright forward repair to make you realise how many parts you missed ordering or what shop supplies you are short on.
I was watching to see how you got the secondary off as it hits the seat rail and you have to undo the whole motor and move it over 1cm. I see they've made the seat rail removable on the 2008s. I think I'll just cut and modify it to be removable.
I am about to replace the drive belt on my 2008 Rhino 700 because sometimes I step on the gas pedal and it takes a little to catch up. As your dad, We use it only for farm work. Sometimes I tow heavy loads with it. But since I saw your video it made me think I could also check the one way bearing for wear. So, if go that far and take it out, can I detect wear on it? Idon´t know exactly what freewheeling is, so I don´t know if I should replace it while it´s open. Please advise. (Ilive in Mexico and spare parts are hard to get, so while I open for belt replacement, I might as well check that bearing).
Freewheeling means that when you are in motion and let off the throttle, the engine braking does not work and the machine will simply coast without any engine power holding it back. That's actually the purpose of the one way bearing, is to keep the clutches enguaged as it slows to allow engine braking. It's very hard to detect wear on the one-way bearing. They are cam-shaped and do have a specific measurement of wear according to the service manual, however if you notice any sounds upon deceleration, and lack of engine braking when you lift off the throtte it most likely needs to be replaced. My rule is, if you have to dig that far into something and have a signifigant amount of kilometers and hours on the machine, you might as well just go ahead and order the part to replace it.
Great video. I have an 09 rhino. Just purchased used recently. Was driving an heard a sudden bang in engine compartment. Now every gear is like it is in nuetral. Engine runs fine. Oil level fine and relatively clean. Any thoughts on how to proceed? I have a youtube channel as well where i do some yamaha waverunner repairs but this is what i call" new technology" or never worked on one before. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I ordered directly from my local Yamaha Dealer. All the parts numbers are in the description of the video here. You can probabbly go to yamahapartshouse.com and order them there as well.
Got a rhino 2009. The wrong oil was used for years and the belt burnt up. Changed belt and now trying to get it going from a dead stop is super hard. After getting it I used the right oil but seemed to not fixed it. Seeing if you had any suggestions.
If you are talking about the grease used in the primary clutch, if the wrong grease was used and caused the clutch to stick constantly, it may have caused too much wear on the sliders and they may need to be replaced. If it was neglected, you may also have a broken secondary spring and not know it as well. If you are referring to the engine oil and it ruined the wet clutch, you will need a new wet clutch. There is no way around that.
Liked and subscribed. One question - How do you get the pilot bearing out of the 3 or 4 legged cage that fits over the primary sheave? It looks like it is in a blind hole. is there a way to get it out without a blind hole bearing puller? Thanks for any advice.
Its not actually in there very tight, it just sits in there and the dirt and grime usually end up taking hold more so than the pressed in fitment. Pack the center hole full of grease and use a tight fitting socket or punch to pneumatically force the bearing out of the hole. Just be careful not to go too hard, that cage is just cast aluminum.
Use a pressure washer on the engine it won’t hurt it.. every single mechanic loves a shit show filth pit and just work around it out of sheer laziness… bravo 👏🏼
What is the torque spec on the nut holding on the primary and the secondary? Great video by the way I got mine all apart following you steps hopefully get er back together tmr I think the primary is 100ft/lb and the secondary is 72 just wanted to see what you find
@@andrewbalcom8081 The 686 is very reliabile. So much in fact that when Yamaha changed to the 708 back in 2016- 2017, after only a few years, they saw so many issues that in 2019 Yamaha went back to the 686 fuel injected engine with a few minor changes. My 2019 Grizzly has the 686 in it.
That shouldnt effect it kicking out of gear. First thing i would try would be to adjust your shift linkage from the shifter to the transmission. Even though it shows in gear on the shift gate, doesnt really mean its fully in gear in the transmission. You may have a lot of slop in the linkages. If that doesnt help you may be into looking internally to see if the shifting forks are bent in the transmission side.
@@ruyguy8888 thank you so much for the response!! I played with the linkage and even disconnected it and did it directly on the trans, and still did it so I was thinking the same thing. Pulled the engine and and split it in half and every looks good. No weird wear or bent parts 🤷♂️ I’m a diesel mechanic so can do the labor but this is confusing me lol
You may have an issue where your wet clutch has worn a groove in your driving drum and its binding. carefully use something to start prying the cover and drum assembly off. something brass if you have it to prevent pitting the aluminum. There shouldnt be anything further behind that cover to prevent it from coming off. www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003cdc2f8700212fc844b58/clutch
Dad does a lot of plowing deep snow and hauls wood out. I would imagine there had to be some slippage of the wet clutch during those types of conditions. It's not uncommon. I've seen ATVs with similar looking discoloration due to the rider, operating in high gear, when they should have been in low range.
u should have replaced the wet clutch drum 100 percent! it should be smooth with no ridges! urs was horrible worn and grooved. it should have been replaced
It's fine for a farm machine. If the owner put thousands of km's on per year then yes i would have suggested the replacement, but the wet clutch friction surface and drum wall thickness was well within spec. It will last for the remainder of its life on the farm.
Thank you for taking the time to video and adding torque specs too. Much appreciated!
Thanks for the feedback.
Nice job explaining everything along the way while taking it apart. It seems that always happens, once you get something apart you see more items you want to replace or need to replace. That clutch drum sure did look like it had been hot at some point.
After waiting on parts for a couple of weeks it was probably warmer when you got it done. LOL
Thanks for posting the video and showing how the clutch works on a Yamaha.
It was a bit warmer for sure, but still cold enough in the garage to warrant running a heater!
It's always the way though. Nothing like doing a stright forward repair to make you realise how many parts you missed ordering or what shop supplies you are short on.
Good explanation of it all, thanks.
I was watching to see how you got the secondary off as it hits the seat rail and you have to undo the whole motor and move it over 1cm. I see they've made the seat rail removable on the 2008s. I think I'll just cut and modify it to be removable.
Great video thanks!
I am about to replace the drive belt on my 2008 Rhino 700 because sometimes I step on the gas pedal and it takes a little to catch up. As your dad, We use it only for farm work. Sometimes I tow heavy loads with it. But since I saw your video it made me think I could also check the one way bearing for wear. So, if go that far and take it out, can I detect wear on it? Idon´t know exactly what freewheeling is, so I don´t know if I should replace it while it´s open. Please advise. (Ilive in Mexico and spare parts are hard to get, so while I open for belt replacement, I might as well check that bearing).
Freewheeling means that when you are in motion and let off the throttle, the engine braking does not work and the machine will simply coast without any engine power holding it back. That's actually the purpose of the one way bearing, is to keep the clutches enguaged as it slows to allow engine braking.
It's very hard to detect wear on the one-way bearing. They are cam-shaped and do have a specific measurement of wear according to the service manual, however if you notice any sounds upon deceleration, and lack of engine braking when you lift off the throtte it most likely needs to be replaced.
My rule is, if you have to dig that far into something and have a signifigant amount of kilometers and hours on the machine, you might as well just go ahead and order the part to replace it.
Great video. I have an 09 rhino. Just purchased used recently. Was driving an heard a sudden bang in engine compartment. Now every gear is like it is in nuetral. Engine runs fine. Oil level fine and relatively clean. Any thoughts on how to proceed? I have a youtube channel as well where i do some yamaha waverunner repairs but this is what i call" new technology" or never worked on one before. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi I just watched your video can I ask what sit or where you got the seal and bearing for the wet clutch drum housing?
I ordered directly from my local Yamaha Dealer. All the parts numbers are in the description of the video here. You can probabbly go to yamahapartshouse.com and order them there as well.
Thank you very much for this video
Got a rhino 2009. The wrong oil was used for years and the belt burnt up. Changed belt and now trying to get it going from a dead stop is super hard. After getting it I used the right oil but seemed to not fixed it. Seeing if you had any suggestions.
If you are talking about the grease used in the primary clutch, if the wrong grease was used and caused the clutch to stick constantly, it may have caused too much wear on the sliders and they may need to be replaced. If it was neglected, you may also have a broken secondary spring and not know it as well.
If you are referring to the engine oil and it ruined the wet clutch, you will need a new wet clutch. There is no way around that.
Liked and subscribed. One question - How do you get the pilot bearing out of the 3 or 4 legged cage that fits over the primary sheave? It looks like it is in a blind hole. is there a way to get it out without a blind hole bearing puller? Thanks for any advice.
Its not actually in there very tight, it just sits in there and the dirt and grime usually end up taking hold more so than the pressed in fitment.
Pack the center hole full of grease and use a tight fitting socket or punch to pneumatically force the bearing out of the hole. Just be careful not to go too hard, that cage is just cast aluminum.
@@ruyguy8888 Thank you! i'm chasing a squeal...
Use a pressure washer on the engine it won’t hurt it.. every single mechanic loves a shit show filth pit and just work around it out of sheer laziness… bravo 👏🏼
I don't get that worked up over dirt. If this was anyone else's machine besides my fathers, they get charged for cleaning.
What is the torque spec on the nut holding on the primary and the secondary? Great video by the way I got mine all apart following you steps hopefully get er back together tmr I think the primary is 100ft/lb and the secondary is 72 just wanted to see what you find
primary-85ft lbs
secondary-72ft lbs
sheave nut (big spring) -65ft lbs
Thanks! One more thing is the secondary nut regular thread or backwards
@@tylercook784 Honestly I can't remember that one. But im pretty sure it's standard thread since it's spinning in the same direction as the primary.
Excellent job ruy guy8888, just of curiosity how many kms is on the 700 rhino?
It's Dad's rhino, but it doesn't have much on it. 4500kms i think? But 6 or 700 engine hours on it as it's mostly a work machine for him.
@@ruyguy8888 wow, the 686cc engine must be pretty reliable?
@@andrewbalcom8081 The 686 is very reliabile. So much in fact that when Yamaha changed to the 708 back in 2016- 2017, after only a few years, they saw so many issues that in 2019 Yamaha went back to the 686 fuel injected engine with a few minor changes. My 2019 Grizzly has the 686 in it.
@@ruyguy8888 I noticed that you take the time and clean up your parts, you do good work ! Excellent video!
Will that bearing being bad kick it out of gear? In forward more than reverse?
That shouldnt effect it kicking out of gear. First thing i would try would be to adjust your shift linkage from the shifter to the transmission. Even though it shows in gear on the shift gate, doesnt really mean its fully in gear in the transmission. You may have a lot of slop in the linkages.
If that doesnt help you may be into looking internally to see if the shifting forks are bent in the transmission side.
@@ruyguy8888 thank you so much for the response!! I played with the linkage and even disconnected it and did it directly on the trans, and still did it so I was thinking the same thing. Pulled the engine and and split it in half and every looks good. No weird wear or bent parts 🤷♂️ I’m a diesel mechanic so can do the labor but this is confusing me lol
Great video, when I get to the wet clutch housing it's loose but won't slide off when I pull on the shaft, I'm stumped, any ideas, thank you
You may have an issue where your wet clutch has worn a groove in your driving drum and its binding.
carefully use something to start prying the cover and drum assembly off. something brass if you have it to prevent pitting the aluminum.
There shouldnt be anything further behind that cover to prevent it from coming off. www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003cdc2f8700212fc844b58/clutch
How did you reach the 10mm bolts on the cover to get the left side bolts?
1/4" ratchet with a universal joint on it
Hi, this is the 700 FI?
Yes it is. The 2008 Rhino was the first year for the 700 Fuel injected engines.
Why did the clutch get so hot?
Dad does a lot of plowing deep snow and hauls wood out. I would imagine there had to be some slippage of the wet clutch during those types of conditions.
It's not uncommon. I've seen ATVs with similar looking discoloration due to the rider, operating in high gear, when they should have been in low range.
u should have replaced the wet clutch drum 100 percent! it should be smooth with no ridges! urs was horrible worn and grooved. it should have been replaced
It's fine for a farm machine. If the owner put thousands of km's on per year then yes i would have suggested the replacement, but the wet clutch friction surface and drum wall thickness was well within spec. It will last for the remainder of its life on the farm.
@@ruyguy8888 not on our farm, they get like that and start slippin when draggin deads or whatever. Maybe a old person gardening itd be fine