Best way to be certain between 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 nipples, is to measure the circumference with your thumb and middle finger. 1 1/4 they touch and 1 1/2 they almost touch, as a rule of thumb. I was taught this way by my father to tell 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 pipe. Old timers have a purpose as I am learning now.
I watched one of your vids for the first time the other day and maybe I was just in a bad mood, but thought you were being arrogant shitting on a previous contractors work. I watched a bunch more and I was wrong. You're a great tech/owner and obviously care a ton about your customers, and even more about your workers. keep up the content, hope your channel goes to the moon, cheers!!
I have a Burham Nat Gas fired Steam boiler that was installed in 2019, for heat only. It replaced a 27 yo Burnham that cracked. My pressuretrol is set to 1.5 psi. It turns the boiler off and on based on thermostat and pressure. Helps to regulate water usage also. If the pressure is getting too high, and the radiators hiss continually, the vent valves on the radiators may all be blown out and need replacement... They are not expensive to replace. They seal based on air temperature, not pressure. They also allow air to vent back into the radiator to allow condensation to flow back to the boiler when the heat system cools down. If they don't work properly, you can get banging when the system cools down, even if the radiators are pitched correctly... The only self maintenance I do is to flush the boiler and the loop every two weeks to prevent rust buildup. My installer cleans and adjust the boiler once a year.
Good video! Charging Jacket was from me, use it on heat pumps in the winter or str8 cool enjoy! Also a little tool coming for Daniel Son for those compressors out on thermal overload. That way you can get more pool time 😂
Hi Earnest.. I have a 3 zone LG RED system the jackoff that did the evacuation and added some refergeriant due to extra line set length evacuated the system when it was about 25 degrees out... he DID NOT use nitrogen, the system heats and cools fantastic but my line sets sound like running water, i never had any fault codes but IM thinking i should get the system totally evacuated with a recovery and recharge the system.. is it a big deal that it was so cold? he also did not use the core removal tool...you think the moisture was able to boil off under vacuum ? there aren't any leaks. we got down to 50 microns ... I installed the system myself along with 2 other mitsubishi hyper heats that are spinning like a top.. electrician by trade, carpenter, hvac tech , landscaper, plumber by night. is nitrogen necessary if nothing was brazed?? its been almost 2 years
I'm at my vacation home in Maine at the moment, but my wife's a nurse at a mental hospital if you want the number they have openings for for patients but you gotta hurry it's limited. They have hurricane fans, swamp coolers and jello cups!!!
@@Matts_Crafty look at you. Keyboard 🤡. Settle down. Guy I used was a licensed HVAC tech. My install is spot on. Another reason if you want something done right you have to do it yourself.
On the west coast we have mostly forced air. I really like the east coast baseboard radiators and regular radiators too. But you cant beat the simplicity of forced air. Next week we replace our existing old furnace with a new higher efficiency one with a fan coil for our new AC system also going in. Learning a huge amount from your channel. Mostly how important that annual professional maintenance is. Thanks a bunch!
I have stream at my house. When I moved in I learned all about stream. I had a clogged pigtail along with some other issues. There's a guy named Gordon that does some shorter TH-cam videos he seems to be the stream expert on TH-cam. I'm excited to see a Mikey Pipes stream video.
@@PipeDoctor I haven't seen many of your steam videos I know you're mostly navian out your way. I'll have to search your videos. I've seen some of Dan's videos I thought of getting his book but I never did.
I tend to find that the steam gauges with "internal siphons" just means they have clogged or are going to clog. Best just to abandon them in place (unless they're leaking of course). By Code, you should have a working 30 # gauge on there somewhere, as you know. Usually, we'll get a 1/4" brass street tee and install it between the P'trol and the pigtail. A new gauge can go there on the bull outlet. When you go to check the pigtail for annual service, remove the gauge, put your mouth on the hole & blow (no need to remove the P'trol to check). Hope this helps & stay safe.
Right. And make it a low pressure gauge, 0 to 5 psi and then you can actually check to see if pressuretrol is cutting in and out correctly. Replace the code compliant gauge with another one but on a pigtail so the internal syphon (tiniest of holes!) no longer will clog.
With the amount of mud in the pigtail I suspect mud in the bottom of the boiler, this will cause steam trapping in the mud which is very loud when it reaches the surface and expands. A flush wouldn’t hurt and would confirm or eliminate the possibility.
The steam feed could have a sag in it creating a pool, steam hits and B A N G ! Uninsulated piping. Hey, Mikey Gramma's house had it as we were infants growing up, you touch once YOU learn, not to touch again, Great in Winter with snow suits, in for lunch clothes on radiator and Dried, going out to pay after lunch. Great to sit on when Cold. Good Job.
I doubt that return line is clogged, my old boss had me back flush about 15 -20 jobs that way, I never found 1 clogged return. I always skimmed out some dirty water and put in 1lb arm and hammer baking soda and steamed up and flushed out. If water surges very hard , a great chemical is scout it neutralizes in seconds and no flushing. Another tip to check clogged pigtail, trip pressure control and if it stays tripped. is clogged. I would like to see the answer. Thank you
6. The Hartford Loop connects to the equalizer with a close nipple because steam rises up through the equalizer, just as it does through the boiler sections. When the relatively cool return water meets that steam at the close nipple, the rising steam bubbles quickly condense. The returning water rushes in to fill the void left by the collapsing bubbles and this creates a slight water hammer inside the tee connecting the return to the equalizer. If you use a long nipple instead of a close nipple, the returning water will have more room to move, so it creates more water hammer through its inertia. Long nipples act like gun barrels in this case and you should always avoid them. Stick with a close nipple or use a “Y” fitting.
Interesting about the Hartford loop I have a longer nipple in my Hartford loop and I have steam hammer in the loop but only if the water in the boiler is above it, if I lower the water level to even with the top of the loop I I get no hammering. After reading this I should just yank out the Hartford loop and reinstall with a y or a close nipple.
Thanks for the video, too much pressure. 5psi is high for a small house. the water gauge shows dirt boiler needs flushing and return flush. Pressutrol or pigtail not working also no manual reset on the boiler. Maybe the location has different code than NYC.
Hmm Elitech....I just returned my Elitech Hi/Lo +temp set that I ordered via Amazon. I was in a pinch and needed it next day. Amazon sent me a used kit with batteries installed and cords all messed up. Low pressure gauge leakes and the misc fitting were missing all of the gaskets/o-rings. In this case, Amazon sucks! I have the Field piece set on order(AccuTools) and looking forward to using Measure Quick. Enjoy your light humor!
Old school wooden radiator covers with expanded metal mesh. Trapped a lot of heat. Remove many of them in the 70’s and 80’s to reduce utility costs to apartments.
Mikey Pipes! I had a Revent Oven making a noise that sounded like a helicopter without a muffler, the cool thing about that burner box, its roughly 2' X 3' and contains a 6 foot flame that spirals like a tornado, so its a 6' flame spiraling about 18" wide and 28" long, but 6' in length, if that makes sense. But anyway, the burner jet was slightly at an angle and was hitting the side of the wall and fluttering into itself. Anyway, I'm going back to your story just wanted to share that
Mike, the way to tell 1-1/4 from 1-1/2” is wrap your hand around the pipe. If you can touch your index finger and thumb it’s 1-1/4” if you can’t touch its 1-1/2”.
We find almost all steam boilers over pressurized and replace pressure stats with vapor stats. Sometimes we will add a vacuum breaker at the boiler. I notice that the Hartford Loop wasn't made correctly with the long nipple installed. It should be a shoulder nipple.
During your dissertation on the system you brought up the fact that there’s no vents at the end of the main’s. I thought that was important for two reasons, in lost art of steam heat by Dan Holohan he mentions some of the problems with steam heating systems as putting the vents in the wrong place such as at the very end of the steam main’s there’s a picture of a failed vent because it was tapped into the elbow at the end of the main and water hammer had destroyed the vent. Given that you may want to consider placing the vents about 18 inches before the end of the main’s and putting in a pipe to place the vents further away from the main’s so they will not be destroyed by water hammer in the event it happens. I was a little surprised that you didn’t mention anything when you talked to the customer about the various problems that he was having and focused instead on jetting the wet returns. But I’m only an arm-chair homeowner (non trades person) I’m not a plumber and don’t claim that special knowledge. I hope you get the job.
hope there is a follow up video..thanks.. my wet return has a gate valve .the gate valve has not been turned in at least 35 years. needed some lubricant and pipe wrench to get it loose.i got it open and wet return is not clogged. the best part is i closed the gate valve and no leaks.. the washer has not deteriorated. If those pro press o rings are as good as this gate valve washer...........maybe there is hope ?? for the propress.....lol.i am not touching the other gate valves that are at least 70 years old lol..did that once ,had to replace with ball valve.....maybe i did not have to ,just replace washer but ball valve should last longer than me so.....one and done project...
I had cast iron radiators in the house I grew up in with an oil fired boiler, ( oh how I love oil burners, could fix them 365 day a year, would be heaven to me, though the mega yachts and commercial fishing vessels I service all have oil fired heating systems). To me the steam heating systems are the best as the heat lasts far after the boiler shut down and also leaves a nice environment as the radiators are emitting water vapor every time they hiss into the environment. They
They need alot more steam main venting. All the air in the system is trying to be pushed out the radiators vents. Also if the piping close to the floor is warm they likely have return. Didn't see if they had an automatic water feed, but if the return was clogged they would have had low water cutoff or the feeder running constantly.
I’m surprised no one mentioned the length of the Hartford Loop nipple. Lol. Plus, with underground piping, you always have the risk of the pipe being rotten. Gauges rarely work correctly after the first season Nice catch on the vents missing No vents on the mains, the air picks up the condensate from the radiator and slings it out the vent. That becomes your main vent. Adding main vents should stop that.
Depends on the person and no personnel jokes here, but. I wrap my pointer finger and thumb around the pipe. If they touch its 1.25 if there is a gap its 1.5. learned that at 13 yo... Also could be bad water and it needs to be flushed and have an additive put in. Very rare its a pressure switch.
Most air vents on radiators will fail if exposed to 2psi or slightly less. The fact that they are venting steam proves they’re trashed, which will prevent pressure from building up to operating at correct pressure. Consider a feeder/probe with a delay, system is obviously over filling if you get water out of rads and return is clear. Return work looks … bodged. Header seems … odd, is equalizer correct?
I doubt this was a clogged return issue. The boiler water level would have been high (flooded)due to the feeder coming on. I’m skeptical of it being a pressure troll issue too. Although it could. But I think that I’d be looking at the water quality and the near boiler piping as well as a possibly oversized or overfired boiler. I’d be suspicious of “wet steam “ which all of the above could contribute to.
I wish that you could come see my boiler. I’m having issues with my tenants’ boiler. The pipes are so loud. And a plumber came in, charged me $2,300 to make a huge whole in my ceiling and placed a new pipe. Now it’s banging more and I’m super frustrated. No plumber seems to know what is wrong with this banging. 5 plumbers have seen this boiler. All different reasons.
I come across this all the time the easy way is to drill and tap 1/8 npt , u can also do 1/4 npt, but u definitely will have to do that on the fitting not pipe.
Easy way to differentiate between 1 1/4” and 1 1/2” pipes is to grab it with your hand. If the the tip of your thumb touches the tip of your fingers then it is 1-1/4” if not then it is 1-1/2” For the npt fittings; if you can insert your index and long fingers together into the fitting then it is a 1-1/2” fitting if you can’t then it is a 1-1/4” fitting
The landlord that I work for had the Same steam boiler in a 100 plus year old building that I learned to hate because there were steam leaks all over the building fix one wait a few days for the next one next never found all them before he sold the building.
Doesn't the pressure gauge have to be mounted vertically? Here's what Google says Usually, a pressure gauge is mounted with its dial vertical. With any deviation, the position indicator on the dial must be observed. For process connections with parallel threads, use flat gaskets, lens-type sealing rings or WIKA profile sealings at the sealing face ①. Those air release steam heater vents can go bad.
The hartford is to save your steamer from cold water shock. Hartfordfod is important, but if that is what I see for steam boiler piping???? A H.S. Loop will save that steamer. Ice cold water feed, no problem. H.S. loop does reduce boiler replacements!
Underground returns can be a real problem. As expensive as adding flush valves might be it's a lot cheaper than jack hammering the floor to replace those pipes. Kids have been touching steam radiators for as long as there has been steam heat, the smart ones only do it once. Experience may be a harsh taskmaster but there is none better.
Mikey screw the indoor filter dyer info you need the Fieldpiece probes. I know your old school and have a wealth of knowledge but please do away with the Testo‘s. We know with the pound of gold you can afford the risk of trying something new and you will never look back once you’ve experience the range of the fp probes. And accuracy i might add. Instance temp reedings on your line temps beats the hell out of the thermistors testo uses.
Best way to be certain between 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 nipples, is to measure the circumference with your thumb and middle finger.
1 1/4 they touch and 1 1/2 they almost touch, as a rule of thumb. I was taught this way by my father to tell 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 pipe.
Old timers have a purpose as I am learning now.
if only everyone had the same size hands. lol
with time you can still judge it that way.
Just read what you wrote, I stand beaten to the point.
Mike I learned this from Steve Lav.. I know you guys have some history, but he was one of the first Hvac channels I subscribed to.
Yes that is true. This has been used for plumbers b4 phones were a big thing
@@throttlebottle5906 😆😆😆
Ted is a great guy and experience shows through in how fast he can sort out some strange problems like resonance in grills etc.
I watched one of your vids for the first time the other day and maybe I was just in a bad mood, but thought you were being arrogant shitting on a previous contractors work.
I watched a bunch more and I was wrong. You're a great tech/owner and obviously care a ton about your customers, and even more about your workers. keep up the content, hope your channel goes to the moon, cheers!!
I have a Burham Nat Gas fired Steam boiler that was installed in 2019, for heat only. It replaced a 27 yo Burnham that cracked. My pressuretrol is set to 1.5 psi. It turns the boiler off and on based on thermostat and pressure. Helps to regulate water usage also. If the pressure is getting too high, and the radiators hiss continually, the vent valves on the radiators may all be blown out and need replacement... They are not expensive to replace. They seal based on air temperature, not pressure. They also allow air to vent back into the radiator to allow condensation to flow back to the boiler when the heat system cools down. If they don't work properly, you can get banging when the system cools down, even if the radiators are pitched correctly... The only self maintenance I do is to flush the boiler and the loop every two weeks to prevent rust buildup. My installer cleans and adjust the boiler once a year.
Good video! Charging Jacket was from me, use it on heat pumps in the winter or str8 cool enjoy! Also a little tool coming for Daniel Son for those compressors out on thermal overload. That way you can get more pool time 😂
Hi Earnest.. I have a 3 zone LG RED system the jackoff that did the evacuation and added some refergeriant due to extra line set length evacuated the system when it was about 25 degrees out... he DID NOT use nitrogen, the system heats and cools fantastic but my line sets sound like running water, i never had any fault codes but IM thinking i should get the system totally evacuated with a recovery and recharge the system.. is it a big deal that it was so cold? he also did not use the core removal tool...you think the moisture was able to boil off under vacuum ? there aren't any leaks. we got down to 50 microns ... I installed the system myself along with 2 other mitsubishi hyper heats that are spinning like a top.. electrician by trade, carpenter, hvac tech , landscaper, plumber by night. is nitrogen necessary if nothing was brazed?? its been almost 2 years
@@SubStationSparky yeah sounds good!
@@SubStationSparky call the pool guy maybe he can straighten it out! I know a guy that does masonry you want his number?
I'm at my vacation home in Maine at the moment, but my wife's a nurse at a mental hospital if you want the number they have openings for for patients but you gotta hurry it's limited. They have hurricane fans, swamp coolers and jello cups!!!
@@Matts_Crafty look at you. Keyboard 🤡. Settle down. Guy I used was a licensed HVAC tech. My install is spot on. Another reason if you want something done right you have to do it yourself.
On the west coast we have mostly forced air. I really like the east coast baseboard radiators and regular radiators too. But you cant beat the simplicity of forced air. Next week we replace our existing old furnace with a new higher efficiency one with a fan coil for our new AC system also going in. Learning a huge amount from your channel. Mostly how important that annual professional maintenance is. Thanks a bunch!
I have stream at my house. When I moved in I learned all about stream. I had a clogged pigtail along with some other issues. There's a guy named Gordon that does some shorter TH-cam videos he seems to be the stream expert on TH-cam. I'm excited to see a Mikey Pipes stream video.
@@PipeDoctor I haven't seen many of your steam videos I know you're mostly navian out your way. I'll have to search your videos. I've seen some of Dan's videos I thought of getting his book but I never did.
I tend to find that the steam gauges with "internal siphons" just means they have clogged or are going to clog.
Best just to abandon them in place (unless they're leaking of course).
By Code, you should have a working 30 # gauge on there somewhere, as you know.
Usually, we'll get a 1/4" brass street tee and install it between the P'trol and the pigtail.
A new gauge can go there on the bull outlet.
When you go to check the pigtail for annual service, remove the gauge, put your mouth on the hole & blow (no need to remove the P'trol to check).
Hope this helps & stay safe.
Right. And make it a low pressure gauge, 0 to 5 psi and then you can actually check to see if pressuretrol is cutting in and out correctly. Replace the code compliant gauge with another one but on a pigtail so the internal syphon (tiniest of holes!) no longer will clog.
It's nice to see one of those boilers getting worked on I grew up in the town where they're made.
With the amount of mud in the pigtail I suspect mud in the bottom of the boiler, this will cause steam trapping in the mud which is very loud when it reaches the surface and expands. A flush wouldn’t hurt and would confirm or eliminate the possibility.
lol, the dog😂
Hello from the great state of Michigan live and learn for me thanks St Mike
I would drain and flush the boiler then add some surge master. Definitely replace pressure control and go from there...
Hey Mike where is your helper?
The steam feed could have a sag in it creating a pool, steam hits and B A N G ! Uninsulated piping. Hey, Mikey Gramma's house had it as we were infants growing up, you touch once YOU learn, not to touch again, Great in Winter with snow suits, in for lunch clothes on radiator and Dried, going out to pay after lunch. Great to sit on when Cold. Good Job.
I doubt that return line is clogged, my old boss had me back flush about 15 -20 jobs that way, I never found 1 clogged return.
I always skimmed out some dirty water and put in 1lb arm and hammer baking soda and steamed up and flushed out. If water surges very hard , a great chemical is scout it neutralizes in seconds and no flushing. Another tip to check clogged pigtail, trip pressure control and if it stays tripped. is clogged. I would like to see the answer. Thank you
Very informative. Like your work and honesty.
6. The Hartford Loop connects to the equalizer with a close nipple because steam rises up through the equalizer, just as it does through the boiler sections. When the relatively cool return water meets that steam at the close nipple, the rising steam bubbles quickly condense. The returning water rushes in to fill the void left by the collapsing bubbles and this creates a slight water hammer inside the tee connecting the return to the equalizer.
If you use a long nipple instead of a close nipple, the returning water will have more room to move, so it creates more water hammer through its inertia. Long nipples act like gun barrels in this case and you should always avoid them. Stick with a close nipple or use a “Y” fitting.
Most guys think using a close nipple on the Hartford loop is optional it is required, as your well put statement says.
Interesting about the Hartford loop I have a longer nipple in my Hartford loop and I have steam hammer in the loop but only if the water in the boiler is above it, if I lower the water level to even with the top of the loop I I get no hammering. After reading this I should just yank out the Hartford loop and reinstall with a y or a close nipple.
Very professional 👏
Well done, Mikey!✋😎✋
That new testing unit looks really nice and real beefy!
Thanks for the video, too much pressure. 5psi is high for a small house. the water gauge shows dirt boiler needs flushing and return flush. Pressutrol or pigtail not working also no manual reset on the boiler. Maybe the location has different code than NYC.
11:45 no cracks in the heat exchanger...waaa?
Hmm Elitech....I just returned my Elitech Hi/Lo +temp set that I ordered via Amazon. I was in a pinch and needed it next day. Amazon sent me a used kit with batteries installed and cords all messed up. Low pressure gauge leakes and the misc fitting were missing all of the gaskets/o-rings. In this case, Amazon sucks! I have the Field piece set on order(AccuTools) and looking forward to using Measure Quick. Enjoy your light humor!
That's an interesting antique American Radiator company old casting you saved. About how old was that boiler roughly you think?
Old school wooden radiator covers with expanded metal mesh. Trapped a lot of heat. Remove many of them in the 70’s and 80’s to reduce utility costs to apartments.
Mikey Pipes! I had a Revent Oven making a noise that sounded like a helicopter without a muffler, the cool thing about that burner box, its roughly 2' X 3' and contains a 6 foot flame that spirals like a tornado, so its a 6' flame spiraling about 18" wide and 28" long, but 6' in length, if that makes sense. But anyway, the burner jet was slightly at an angle and was hitting the side of the wall and fluttering into itself. Anyway, I'm going back to your story just wanted to share that
Hey Mike I don't know much about boilers but watching you learning but what is a heartford loop if that not a stupid question
That pressure control switch needs to be replaced..👍
Mike, the way to tell 1-1/4 from 1-1/2” is wrap your hand around the pipe. If you can touch your index finger and thumb it’s 1-1/4” if you can’t touch its 1-1/2”.
We find almost all steam boilers over pressurized and replace pressure stats with vapor stats. Sometimes we will add a vacuum breaker at the boiler. I notice that the Hartford Loop wasn't made correctly with the long nipple installed. It should be a shoulder nipple.
I would check the pitch on radiators put in Gordon #1 air vents . And go from there make sure a radiators are in open positions.
During your dissertation on the system you brought up the fact that there’s no vents at the end of the main’s. I thought that was important for two reasons, in lost art of steam heat by Dan Holohan he mentions some of the problems with steam heating systems as putting the vents in the wrong place such as at the very end of the steam main’s there’s a picture of a failed vent because it was tapped into the elbow at the end of the main and water hammer had destroyed the vent. Given that you may want to consider placing the vents about 18 inches before the end of the main’s and putting in a pipe to place the vents further away from the main’s so they will not be destroyed by water hammer in the event it happens.
I was a little surprised that you didn’t mention anything when you talked to the customer about the various problems that he was having and focused instead on jetting the wet returns.
But I’m only an arm-chair homeowner (non trades person)
I’m not a plumber and don’t claim that special knowledge.
I hope you get the job.
hope there is a follow up video..thanks.. my wet return has a gate valve .the gate valve has not been turned in at least 35 years. needed some lubricant and pipe wrench to get it loose.i got it open and wet return is not clogged. the best part is i closed the gate valve and no leaks.. the washer has not deteriorated. If those pro press o rings are as good as this gate valve washer...........maybe there is hope ?? for the propress.....lol.i am not touching the other gate valves that are at least 70 years old lol..did that once ,had to replace with ball valve.....maybe i did not have to ,just replace washer but ball valve should last longer than me so.....one and done project...
Yeah it's kind of funny Ted the anti-diy is actually in my hometown well the time I live in not my hometown LOL in Greenville South Carolina
About 2 and 1/2 hours
I had cast iron radiators in the house I grew up in with an oil fired boiler, ( oh how I love oil burners, could fix them 365 day a year, would be heaven to me, though the mega yachts and commercial fishing vessels I service all have oil fired heating systems). To me the steam heating systems are the best as the heat lasts far after the boiler shut down and also leaves a nice environment as the radiators are emitting water vapor every time they hiss into the environment. They
I would change the pressure Troll and change the valves on a radiators Mikey you're pretty thorough
no close nipple between tee and ell on hartford loop
Good one Mikey Pipes
Is it 1 pipe steam should only run no more than 2lbs
That dog was helicoptering you!
Ted Cook has some great Video's
They need alot more steam main venting. All the air in the system is trying to be pushed out the radiators vents. Also if the piping close to the floor is warm they likely have return. Didn't see if they had an automatic water feed, but if the return was clogged they would have had low water cutoff or the feeder running constantly.
Were those wet returns actually buried underground?
Love steam the boilers I work on are 15+ psi
Do steam 15psi pressure relief valves go bad? If so, how do you test them considering steam pressure is low ?
Manually lift them
I get to deal with steam. But what I deal with is for a factory. We run it around 80 psi
Fork in hand. Napkin on lap. Bring on the food MP’s. 😃👍
That girl hasn’t been skimmed since it was installed
I’m surprised no one mentioned the length of the Hartford Loop nipple. Lol. Plus, with underground piping, you always have the risk of the pipe being rotten.
Gauges rarely work correctly after the first season
Nice catch on the vents missing
No vents on the mains, the air picks up the condensate from the radiator and slings it out the vent. That becomes your main vent. Adding main vents should stop that.
@@georgebrett6082 it’s supposed to be a close nipple into the Hartford loop
@@georgebrett6082 no problem buddy. Just making sure that we are all on the same page 👍
Hey is it called pigtail or BURBON TUBE
@@PipeDoctor thanks Mikey my bad u are correct sir still love me bigcatmatt
Depends on the person and no personnel jokes here, but. I wrap my pointer finger and thumb around the pipe. If they touch its 1.25 if there is a gap its 1.5. learned that at 13 yo... Also could be bad water and it needs to be flushed and have an additive put in. Very rare its a pressure switch.
Maybe there was a gas can nearby as well ,that you missed seeing, Mikey...
I have a Dunkirk boiler and it’s making a buzzing noise. What could the issue be?
@@PipeDoctor Thank you!
Most air vents on radiators will fail if exposed to 2psi or slightly less.
The fact that they are venting steam proves they’re trashed, which will prevent pressure from building up to operating at correct pressure.
Consider a feeder/probe with a delay, system is obviously over filling if you get water out of rads and return is clear.
Return work looks … bodged.
Header seems … odd, is equalizer correct?
Is steam heat better then force air heat?
Thanks Mikey
It’s way better. When the boiler shuts off the radiators will continue to give off heat for quite awhile.
I doubt this was a clogged return issue. The boiler water level would have been high (flooded)due to the feeder coming on. I’m skeptical of it being a pressure troll issue too. Although it could. But I think that I’d be looking at the water quality and the near boiler piping as well as a possibly oversized or overfired boiler. I’d be suspicious of “wet steam “ which all of the above could contribute to.
Do you have to buy separate hoses for the digital manifold I'm having a hard time with your email I guess I'm just stupid
I wish that you could come see my boiler. I’m having issues with my tenants’ boiler. The pipes are so loud. And a plumber came in, charged me $2,300 to make a huge whole in my ceiling and placed a new pipe.
Now it’s banging more and I’m super frustrated. No plumber seems to know what is wrong with this banging. 5 plumbers have seen this boiler. All different reasons.
Pitch the radiators so water runs back to the boiler .
Nice, you don’t see those emergency switches around here
How much is a bill like this go for ?
@@PipeDoctor your right i love your videos ima subscribe now
I come across this all the time the easy way is to drill and tap 1/8 npt , u can also do 1/4 npt, but u definitely will have to do that on the fitting not pipe.
Hey Mikey !!!
Easy way to differentiate between 1 1/4” and 1 1/2” pipes is to grab it with your hand. If the the tip of your thumb touches the tip of your fingers then it is 1-1/4” if not then it is 1-1/2”
For the npt fittings; if you can insert your index and long fingers together into the fitting then it is a 1-1/2” fitting if you can’t then it is a 1-1/4” fitting
Good old “old school”…Love it
The landlord that I work for had the Same steam boiler in a 100 plus year old building that I learned to hate because there were steam leaks all over the building fix one wait a few days for the next one next never found all them before he sold the building.
That doesn't make sense, if you have a parallel system why do you have vents on radiators?
i had steam heat in my old apartment. o loved it. i could wash my cloths and lay them over the radiator to dry. it didn't take long.
Doesn't the pressure gauge have to be mounted vertically? Here's what Google says Usually, a pressure gauge is mounted with its dial vertical. With any deviation, the position indicator on the dial must be observed. For process connections with parallel threads, use flat gaskets, lens-type sealing rings or WIKA profile sealings at the sealing face ①.
Those air release steam heater vents can go bad.
The hartford is to save your steamer from cold water shock. Hartfordfod is important, but if that is what I see for steam boiler piping???? A H.S. Loop will save that steamer. Ice cold water feed, no problem. H.S. loop does reduce boiler replacements!
My question to you Mikey, did you by chance ask this customer to put his dog up? Or did the little feller simmer down..
@@PipeDoctor That's clear with the morning walks of Gigi. Bonus is Gigi brings in the fellow animal lovers to the channel. 👌
If you hook up the hwt to the steam main, funny things will happen! 😂😂😂😂😂
Kids are smart. They will only touch a hot radiator 1 time.
Oh wow no thermocouple in there?
I see you've heard of Air Around The Clock
The people down here really do love that slogan hahahahaha
Think ounces, not lbs pressure. Honeywell makes a much more accurate ( i.e. much more expensive ) pressuretrol
P404 always go higher then set for
I’m hungry!
Underground returns can be a real problem. As expensive as adding flush valves might be it's a lot cheaper than jack hammering the floor to replace those pipes.
Kids have been touching steam radiators for as long as there has been steam heat, the smart ones only do it once. Experience may be a harsh taskmaster but there is none better.
Dissimiliar metals for the overflow pipe on relief valve is a No No
10 lbs? WTF are you heating! lol I've never set a resi steam boiler above 2-3 lbs
By introducing freshwater into The underground Zone Would cause premature Decayof underground pipes promoting on the ground leaks
When was the last time your system was serviced? That's why there is issues
By introducing freshwater into The underground Zone Would cause premature Decay of underground pipes promoting on the ground leaks
Pretend it's a big black thing?
Conversating?
Not a word, U trying 2 fit in with the street thugs?
Mikey screw the indoor filter dyer info you need the Fieldpiece probes. I know your old school and have a wealth of knowledge but please do away with the Testo‘s. We know with the pound of gold you can afford the risk of trying something new and you will never look back once you’ve experience the range of the fp probes. And accuracy i might add. Instance temp reedings on your line temps beats the hell out of the thermistors testo uses.
bourdon tube sorry just wondering feed me iam hungry not a hater bigcatmatt soft and warm u love me I love u more
#428 Thumbs uP
Taliban Tuesday ? lol
Not a fan of Dunkirk's equipment.
I guess you spit
Is that electric or gas? “It’s Fake”
Jesus