I’m in NJ and have a steam boiler very similar to the one featured here. Been having problems with it and every “expert” I call has no experience with steam boilers. Need someone knowledgeable like this guy.
There are not many folks around that do it but NJ should have a few. Get the book “the lost art of steam heat”. It’s about $40 and well worth it. Most HVAC guys know almost nothing about steam. They are typically well designed systems and can be very economical to run. I had an honest HVAC guy who could get my system running. He died and I had a horrible time with hammering. All boilers have something g called a Hartford loop t o prevent the boiler from exploding. It needs to be cleaned out during maintenance. Whoever installed the furnace in the late 80s early 90s didn’t put a clean out in. When I found a someone who knew how the system worked he immediately identified the issue and showed two or three of sediment in that pipe. The hvac guys understand the controls but don’t understand d the physics of steam. They see steam and want to sell you a new system. Google the Steam Whisperer in Chicago he knows steam guys all over the country. He will get you a name. Also go to dan holohans website heatinghelp.com. With that book you will know what questions to ask and know that the guy is or isnt guessing. Plus that book is so enjoyable to read.
@@johnmichelotti5373 You're right I've been in HVAC since 2012 in Toronto, and have not once encountered a steam system ... Forced air and hydronic radiant is the name of the game..
We check them by flooding the boiler to the header. That will find a leak above the normal water line. Often you can't see them by a visual inspection.
I've been working on boilers for 30+ years and have never worked on a single pipe steam boiler, have always had a condensate line, receiver, pump. Interesting to see this but man, I bet it can hammer. The HVAC guy who visited three times, failed to diagnose the leak and charged him to install a makeup water system that the system wasn't designed for apparently, like me, never worked on a single pipe steam boiler system either.
Usually they're quite. There's no header on the boiler which doesn't collect condensate if traps don't work. Also the pipe is at a good pitch and the controls are set so it has time to condense and not water hammer.
In the military I worked in a steam plant which provide steam to the base hospital. It was a single pipe--gravity return system. Very reliable and I got to work with some interesting people.
@@pjones6749 Generally steam boilers only get up to an 80-85% efficiency rate (even new ones from what I have seen). You will see most steam boilers in homes that were built pre-WWII, (mine which was built in the mid 1930's). The boiler unit cost will vary based on the BTU output as a prime factor. Labor costs for the removal of the old system and installation of the new one is approximately $6-7K, but don't quote me on that as every install has unique circumstances. It generally takes a master plumber, another plumber with a bit of experience and 1-2 apprentices a half to a full day for installation. Some plumbers also coordinate with electricians and chimney cleaning services when they do the installation to ensure things are done in a way they can fully stand behind. In some towns, you will also need to have an inspector look at and sign off on the installation. These variables add cost to the overall installation. Steam units need to serviced and cleaned periodically. If this is done properly, steam units can last up to 50 years. Mine is 21 years old and is still running well.
@@QuadroNVS I would imagine he was paying a ton on utilities if it triggered a call to a plumber. He will be paying the plumber off now instead of the gas and water company. Plus the house value should reflect the new boiler install which is a good thing.
Don't agree with the 50 yr old water comment. You loose water due to evaporation in a steam system. And a decent hvac tech should have found that during a maint
+Joe katynski Agreed, Trethewey is overlooking the small amount of steam lost at the steam vents, that adds up and quickly. A steam system is not a truly closed system like a hydronic system.
+Joe katynski i thought the exact same thing. He didnt consider the water that evaporated out of the radiators. He mentioned that you can use the same water you put in 50yrs ago.. .
+Joe katynski In a closed loop system there is no loss. Just test the boiler water chemical levels. If at the proper levels, the water side of the boiler doesn't need to be drained. The fireside should be opened, cleaned and inspected along with all of the controls. Water does not evaporate from a steam boiler unless you have a leak. The LWCO should be checked 1 time/month. "Remember" This is in a low pressure boiler.
Jogo g wanna bet the HVAC guy did tell him the boiler was cracked. They got him by for the rest of the winter. This guy like this homeowner loves to lie and blame the tech
Auto Feeds are only bad because the boiler is not tended to weekly. But let’s be honest, how many steam customers who have been told to blown down the LWCO weekly do that ? Yep, almost none of them, so it’s almost a moot point. Additionally an auto feeder and probe are easier and cheaper to replace than the older cast iron pieces and fail safe, whereas those old float types can get stuck open or closed. Yea, you can by a kit or buy a rebuilt old Cast Iron LWCO and that is usually the best option if that’s what is there, but on a new steam boiler auto feed with probe is the safest and most practical. Additionally you can monitor and control feed water better with an auto feeder.
Good luck. If you are not the original purchasing homeowner of the boiler Burnham will not cover it. They lost a ton of boilers due to bad casting and had to replace thousands for free. They changed their warranty policy after that.
I wonder if the lack of an offset in the near-boiler piping and the lack of a drop header had anything to do with the boiler failure. The way the did the near boiler piping, it seems that it would cause problems with differential expansion of the pipes and the boiler sections.
Hopefully he recommended a steam expert to do the new boiler, not a generalist heat specialist that does hot water or forced air. The near-boiler piping on that old boiler is bad, the main vent is tiny, and none of the mains are insulated. I had all those problems, and when the steam pros installed a new boiler they fixed those things and the system works like a dream. Dan Holohan talks about these things in his books and entertaining lectures.
I had the same model, same problem as well... cast iron cracks on the top.. I don't know if it's a manufacturing issue or not. I replaced it with another model. $6k total.
I’ll say this as an hvac technician in Connecticut, the company that maintains that boiler should be fired. You pull the stack and brush it down. General inspection stuff.
Two things for the homeowner to replace when he gets another boiler. Header pipe is a little small and should be higher with a drop header to dry the steam, and the second is insulation, that boiler is oversized because there’s no insulation on any of the pipes. Why pay for heating the basement? Install insulation on the supply and return piping.
Over fill the boiler, you will know if there is a hole or crack in the boiler right the way; you can hear the water pouring out and water will pour down to the floor.
Someone will have to clean the mess after. I rather do what Richard did and identify the culprit visually. Also helps to see it and know the magnitude of the issue.
Mine was leaking in the middle of main line pipe in basement. The pipe was 90 years old and had rusted through. Replaced with a 16 foot section of schedule 40 black pipe with union in the middle.
Can the water left in the boiler rot out the boiler? seems like I gotta change the water every winter, cause the rust build up starts making lots of noise.
Max Gelman bs I will bet you he has been told for years it isn’t safe to run and needs replaced and the homeowners refuse to replace it and ask for a temp fix to get them by. I see this type of homeowner daily.
Does the comment at 1:15 make sense to anyone? That you can keep the same water in there for 50 years. I drain mine every other week based on advice from our heating maintenance guy.
just throw some JB weld on that hole and he will get through another winter or 2 or 3.. start saving for a boiler now and in 2 years he can replace without feeling the punch of 5- 6k at once
He is right I JB welded a larger hole just above the fire box for a friend of mine...lasted at least another 3 years...jb weld ok to 600°...well above that temp above fire box
Simply run the boiler set at a higher temperature, go outside and check the chimney for white steam exhaust. Welcome a new boiler and Pope if you see this.
Big problem. .impurities in the water is what eats up steam boilers, once its steamed the water is good, but loosing it and constant make up water i'v seen rot through a boiler in under 10 years.. Bad vents loose steam also costs you make up water.. Leaks on pipes, valves, radiators all will eat up the boiler.
If you're adding water daily then you have a leak. Maybe a bad vent on a radiator or a main vent. If they dont close when steam hits it, then you're losing steam and have to add water
how do you know you have no leaks? If the hole is above the water line of the boiler you will never see water leak.. it's just escaped into the chimney. go out side in the cold and look for white smoke coming out from the chimney. another way is to filled the water all the way up, you will see leaks.
Then don’t take the call. I am not trained in it but i know if water is leaking from the boiler and all the pipes etc are sealed, it’s probably coming from the inside. Process of elimination and a thorough inspection.
@@walterbrunswickWish we had well trained HVAC technician around here but we have mostly DIYs turned Pros. I always wondered if any tech would take the time to remove the draft/collector hood ASM and reapply with new sealing cement in a situation like this.
@@mugen-mundo whenever I clean mid-efficiency boiler heat exchangers, always remove, clean, inspect draft hood and venting located in Toronto where abouts are you?
can u tell me what can i do to stop me from wasteing oil ...i spent $1300.00 in 4 months what can i do to stop loseing money every year i go though 150 gallon of oil in 3 weeks and upstairs radiators don't work after bleeding them what should i do to fix it
How big is the house? Steam or hot water system? If hot water, what's the pressure in the boiler when the burner cuts off? What's the temp. when the burner cuts off? Attic insulated? Storm windows? Shades at night?
$1300 in 4 months isn't too outrageous. That is $325 per month which is about average. I have customers that use about 210 gallons every 2.5 weeks and some that can go 1.5 months on 180 gallons. Several factors contribute to the oil consumption. Size of the house, insulation, windows, thermostat setting, age and efficiency of the boiler to name a few. As far as the upstairs radiators not working that too can be several different factors. Steam or forced hot water? If forced hot water is it two zones? If it is two zones it could be a zone valve not opening or a circulator pump not working, depends on how the system is configured. Best advise is to have a local heating contractor inspect the system.
@@george_KC1TQF don't you think it matters the size of the house?? I know people that have 60$ bills & others that have 27 zones in the house which i imagine is crazy more.
@@thomasbroking7943 yes, a 1000 square foot house is easier to heat than a 6000 square foot house. Thus lower fuel consumption due to a smaller heating plant in the smaller house. Size of house was addressed in my previous comment.
steam boilers use water. that why houses with steam boiler do not have dry air in the winter. water feeders feeds water into boiler due to lost due to venting in radiators. if boiler is cracked would the area fill with steam?
Only the part with "steam boilers use water" was correct. Houses with steam boilers are actually very dry. There was a whole sub industry that made evaporating containers to increasing moisture in the air. Vents do not leak any significant amount of steam. Given the whole top of the boiler sections are sealed with the duct work. No the whole area will not fill with steam.I would just leave up the chimney.
@@bauhnguefyische667 Things are alredy going like this way. We have technology to repair this in this way also. Plz dont comment thier risk. Comment only about tecnology. And in case of heated oil line.
Saurabh Mehta You have me interested, some of it because of translation. I am aware of commercial products intended for live use/repair but as I understand them it is intended to be temporary. If you have something or a technique that works I would love to hear about it. I’m in the USA, and I am assuming from your YT page that you are in or near India, so we are dealing with different local codes. Have a good day, Sir. !
Why should you never have to add water when steam systems always give off steam through the release valve? Isn't some of the water boiling off over time this way?
In a theoretically perfect steam system no steam/water should be lost. In reality, sometimes there are small leaks due to the age of steam system plus the time the vent does sense the steam till it closes it may spit a little steam out. The radiator vents allow air to vent out of the system. When the vent senses the steam it closes. If you do have steam coming out of the vents more than likely the vent is bad.
@@soxx35 Could not of said it any better. People always want to believe a steam system needs to be hissing steam and spitting water everywhere because it runs of steam. Yet the opposite is true. Steam is your money as it takes BTU to make it. Dont let it get out, else your just tossing money out the window.
There is a high and low level float, so when the low level float is triggered it fills with water till the high level float is triggered. Because the hole is above the water line nothing poured out, but if it was lower you are looking at a leak on the floor.
There is a probe that detects a low water level. The feeder kicks in when water to bring the water level back up. The feeder has a timer that allow more water to keep feeding even after its has pass the probe. In some cases this could lead to a over filled boiler. Not a good thing. Just another danger of using a auto-feeder.
My guess is, the bottom of the boiler is being heated by the burners, however the water in the boiler is taking the heat. All boilers have a gap between the water line and the top of the boiler casing. Its called the steam chest. A interesting thing about steam is it expands very violently. This expansion over time is what I believe caused the top to fail. Among other things.
I decided to say F it and installed electric wall heating. Easily a DIY job and cost only $400 in parts. Zero maintenance. Simply replace every 10-20 years ( Depending on use). It's also more energy efficient and lowered my bill significantly
This is what improper water management does to boilers folks. All boilers are designed with corrosion in the mix. However constant intervals of fresh water will rapidly increase the acidic level of the water causing premature corrosion.
There should be no water at the top of the boiler and it looks like the hole is at the top. Steam is pure. Each cycle vents moist air and a little steam from the bleeders. The let air back into the system in the off cycle and the cycles starts over again. During the cold months, the water column should be checked often. You also do not want to pipe it with copper or you will really shorten the life of a steam boiler.
Depending on the difference in the coefficient of thermal expansion between the bolt and the body of the boiler you could effectively be loading a gun with a trajectory somewhere in your house. Boiler sealers are able to chemically bond with the metal of the boiler and stretch/contract with temperature fluctuations. You won't get that from a bolt.
That hole is about the size of a golf ball. You would have to drill and tap a hole the size of a tennis ball to get a good chuck of cast iron to tap and hold a bolt. The labor involved would be cost prohibitive and well as just a temporary fix.
I am pretty sure people have tried and even succeeded in plugin a hole that size. However the odds are all the sections are thin wall by now and bound to fail.
This is a main reason why NOT to buy any Burhnam product...my boiler had the same issue, and it turned out, it was manufacturing defect (I paid a lab to test the exchanger metal) but Burnham refuse to replace the defect: DISGRACEFUL COMPANY BURNHAM
Steam boilers only have water up to the recommended water line about 70-80% percent of boiler sections. If you were to fill pass the sections then yes water would spill over the top.
Its a big rough hole in the iron casting. It's a 500+ degree environment above the burner flames. It needs to be able to retain water, and hold a modest amount of pressure. No amount of tool shed cobbling, or magic epoxy is going to fix it to the point where someone with common sense would ever trust it. Change it out, it's done.
On paper it should work.. And no problem voiding any warranty, thats been gone.. The controls don't change, i don't see any problems. . Now does in need to be taken apart or can it be patched in place? If you need to spend 1,000 bucks to get at it, then pay a welder it's not cost effective.
Whomever serviced that boiler must not have done it right (or is an idiot) because there's no way you miss a hole like that when you clean it (tune up) properly. You most certainly lose some water having steam heat, think about it when you are boiling water on your stove does it not escape through the vents of the lid or push out the edges? The vents on the sides of the radiators are doing just that-venting some and that little bit from each radiator happening over and over eventually leads to some water loss there hoss.
In this day and age of condensing technology, heat pumps, pellet systems, and solar systems, who builds a steam boiler in their house? Industrial plants ok.
what's the possibility that hole was caused by improper venting in the chimney? Say the steam in the boiler exhaust reacts with old wood or coal ash on the side of the chimney, condensates and picks up corrosive chemical (possibly becomes alkaline from wood ash), runs down the side of the chimney into the metal flue, then the condensate drips on the top of the boiler causing a rust hole.
Its possible if he has a issue with back draft. But all boilers have a air gap with a temp sensor that trips the gas valve if it detects a reverse draft. usually the leak would be near that gap. some have a funnel shape gap. If there was condensation build up on the chimney it would run out and above the boiler not inside.
Yes but he has all the radiators and pipes already in place. A couple of thousand will buy a new boiler of that size. Labor cost however is a whole other conversation.
A modern system, that hasn't been messed with by an idiot WILL NOT BLOW UP! This is why all boilers have pressure relief valves installed! Boilers also don't really get much hotter than the high limit on most furnaces.
Yea, we have a boiler that break down yeary... one has no control for heating. Gas can stay on and heat up water beyond 200*F. Has been installed in 1980s
MARCELLINO GUARNERO Way more than 3K, unless you already have the ducts installed for a central air system. IMHO boilers are superior to furnaces. They're quieter, and don't blow dry dusty air around. It's allot easier to install, and insulate boiler pipes, then installing ducts. Stick with a boiler.
while Richard is a butcher (using pipe wrenches on brass hex fittings), I agree with his method here.... better to inspect visually first, instead of causing Niagara Falls
This guy is the most knowledgeable guy I've seen on here. Thank you
@Eric Knowles, he’s thorough.
I’m in NJ and have a steam boiler very similar to the one featured here. Been having problems with it and every “expert” I call has no experience with steam boilers. Need someone knowledgeable like this guy.
There are not many folks around that do it but NJ should have a few. Get the book “the lost art of steam heat”. It’s about $40 and well worth it. Most HVAC guys know almost nothing about steam. They are typically well designed systems and can be very economical to run. I had an honest HVAC guy who could get my system running. He died and I had a horrible time with hammering. All boilers have something g called a Hartford loop t o prevent the boiler from exploding. It needs to be cleaned out during maintenance. Whoever installed the furnace in the late 80s early 90s didn’t put a clean out in. When I found a someone who knew how the system worked he immediately identified the issue and showed two or three of sediment in that pipe. The hvac guys understand the controls but don’t understand d the physics of steam. They see steam and want to sell you a new system.
Google the Steam Whisperer in Chicago he knows steam guys all over the country. He will get you a name. Also go to dan holohans website heatinghelp.com. With that book you will know what questions to ask and know that the guy is or isnt guessing.
Plus that book is so enjoyable to read.
@@johnmichelotti5373 You're right
I've been in HVAC since 2012 in Toronto, and have not once encountered a steam system ...
Forced air and hydronic radiant is the name of the game..
Hello, If you are in northern NJ. I can refer you an incredible plumber.
@@tuggyboatWho do you recommend?? I need a good plumber. Please help.
@@tuggyboat mame number huyg
What's the name and number
Richard is a plumber’s plumber. He Always provides helpful info.
Richard is very knowledgeable.
We check them by flooding the boiler to the header. That will find a leak above the normal water line. Often you can't see them by a visual inspection.
can this boiler be fixed? or replace is the only option? what about welding?
He said it's cleaned every year, how the hell did the tech not see that hole when brushing it out? Seems a little fishy to me...
Probably means the inside was flushed and skimmed.
lol right
They took the poor guy for a ride. The homeowner's clearly never opened it up himself to take a look around before calling someone in.
Maybe The Tech Caused The Hole.
Good call, thats why you don't flat rate cleanings. Takes 4 hrs min to properly clean an oil steam boiler water and fire side
I worked at Robinson supply for years. This guy Richard is a genius.
Sst Pilot watch some of his other HVAC videos the guy isn’t so smart
It always amazes me how people question a man with 3 generations of plumbing expertise in the New England area when it comes to these sort of stuff.
I've been working on boilers for 30+ years and have never worked on a single pipe steam boiler, have always had a condensate line, receiver, pump. Interesting to see this but man, I bet it can hammer. The HVAC guy who visited three times, failed to diagnose the leak and charged him to install a makeup water system that the system wasn't designed for apparently, like me, never worked on a single pipe steam boiler system either.
Usually they're quite. There's no header on the boiler which doesn't collect condensate if traps don't work. Also the pipe is at a good pitch and the controls are set so it has time to condense and not water hammer.
In the military I worked in a steam plant which provide steam to the base hospital. It was a single pipe--gravity return system. Very reliable and I got to work with some interesting people.
The words no man ever wants to hear: "You're gonna have to get a new steam boiler."
😂 Wait till he sees the bill
@@dontakeshit How much for that boiler?
@@pjones6749 probably $3000 for the boiler and god only knows for Labor. Not many HVAC people do steam boilers anymore
@@dontakeshit Why? Too complicated? Or are homeowners wanting "efficient" units instead?
@@pjones6749 Generally steam boilers only get up to an 80-85% efficiency rate (even new ones from what I have seen). You will see most steam boilers in homes that were built pre-WWII, (mine which was built in the mid 1930's). The boiler unit cost will vary based on the BTU output as a prime factor. Labor costs for the removal of the old system and installation of the new one is approximately $6-7K, but don't quote me on that as every install has unique circumstances. It generally takes a master plumber, another plumber with a bit of experience and 1-2 apprentices a half to a full day for installation. Some plumbers also coordinate with electricians and chimney cleaning services when they do the installation to ensure things are done in a way they can fully stand behind. In some towns, you will also need to have an inspector look at and sign off on the installation. These variables add cost to the overall installation. Steam units need to serviced and cleaned periodically. If this is done properly, steam units can last up to 50 years. Mine is 21 years old and is still running well.
Follow up video please. That was interesting.
I agree, to bad he has to get that system replaced.... There goes some quadruple digit figure out of his wallet.
yes please, I would like to see a second fixing it
@@QuadroNVS I would imagine he was paying a ton on utilities if it triggered a call to a plumber. He will be paying the plumber off now instead of the gas and water company. Plus the house value should reflect the new boiler install which is a good thing.
one of the best produced videos
Don't agree with the 50 yr old water comment. You loose water due to evaporation in a steam system.
And a decent hvac tech should have found that during a maint
+Joe katynski Agreed, Trethewey is overlooking the small amount of steam lost at the steam vents, that adds up and quickly. A steam system is not a truly closed system like a hydronic system.
Not to mention yours supposed to flush that LWCO at least once a week, your letting water out
+Joe katynski
i thought the exact same thing. He didnt consider the water that evaporated out of the radiators. He mentioned that you can use the same water you put in 50yrs ago.. .
+Joe katynski In a closed loop system there is no loss. Just test the boiler water chemical levels. If at the proper levels, the water side of the boiler doesn't need to be drained. The fireside should be opened, cleaned and inspected along with all of the controls. Water does not evaporate from a steam boiler unless you have a leak. The LWCO should be checked 1 time/month. "Remember" This is in a low pressure boiler.
Jimmy Berry so in a closed loop system..the water level want drop due to evaporation
Nice simple video. Not like other ppl where they talk your head off.
I Mean I watched a few other videos n this guy was dah best....
The HVAC guy who installed the automatic filler jerked the poor guy
Jogo g no he did not he gave him a much cheaper solution that worked for the winter
Jogo g wanna bet the HVAC guy did tell him the boiler was cracked. They got him by for the rest of the winter. This guy like this homeowner loves to lie and blame the tech
Auto Feeds are only bad because the boiler is not tended to weekly.
But let’s be honest, how many steam customers who have been told
to blown down the LWCO weekly do that ? Yep, almost none of them,
so it’s almost a moot point. Additionally an auto feeder and probe are easier
and cheaper to replace than the older cast iron pieces and fail safe, whereas
those old float types can get stuck open or closed. Yea, you can by a kit or buy
a rebuilt old Cast Iron LWCO and that is usually the best option if that’s what is
there, but on a new steam boiler auto feed with probe is the safest and most
practical. Additionally you can monitor and control feed water better with an auto feeder.
he is heating the sky.
Glad to see this I think I found the problem now have to check the warranty on the burnham oil burner.
Good luck. If you are not the original purchasing homeowner of the boiler Burnham will not cover it. They lost a ton of boilers due to bad casting and had to replace thousands for free. They changed their warranty policy after that.
That model was made in 1987. Good luck with that.
Wow, so it's a 5k-10k Problem. That makes me feel so much better now :o/
Another place is pin holes where the flame impinges on the bottom. The water leaks onto the burners and turns into steam.
I wonder if the lack of an offset in the near-boiler piping and the lack of a drop header had anything to do with the boiler failure. The way the did the near boiler piping, it seems that it would cause problems with differential expansion of the pipes and the boiler sections.
Very well explained. Thanks
Hopefully he recommended a steam expert to do the new boiler, not a generalist heat specialist that does hot water or forced air. The near-boiler piping on that old boiler is bad, the main vent is tiny, and none of the mains are insulated. I had all those problems, and when the steam pros installed a new boiler they fixed those things and the system works like a dream. Dan Holohan talks about these things in his books and entertaining lectures.
Beautiful
When boiler starting to have a hole, you are done because you keep on putting fresh water into it means a lot of oxygen.
OUCH! I’m going thru this right now, same exact problem.
I had the same model, same problem as well... cast iron cracks on the top.. I don't know if it's a manufacturing issue or not. I replaced it with another model. $6k total.
Richard knows his stuff for sure.
So Acidic water can cause pitting and metal erosion. Does the water's pH gets balanced to minimize erosion?
Yes on every annual services call. Another reason with auto feeders are a bad idea. You would never be able to control the ph.
Shouldn't you be draining the steam boiler once a week or so? 🤔
I’ll say this as an hvac technician in Connecticut, the company that maintains that boiler should be fired. You pull the stack and brush it down. General inspection stuff.
Two things for the homeowner to replace when he gets another boiler.
Header pipe is a little small and should be higher with a drop header to dry the steam, and the second is insulation, that boiler is oversized because there’s no insulation on any of the pipes. Why pay for heating the basement? Install insulation on the supply and return piping.
ouch...that hurt.
Great video.
Over fill the boiler, you will know if there is a hole or crack in the boiler right the way; you can hear the water pouring out and water will pour down to the floor.
Someone will have to clean the mess after. I rather do what Richard did and identify the culprit visually. Also helps to see it and know the magnitude of the issue.
Yup. I did that,opened access door and it was raining
Mine was leaking in the middle of main line pipe in basement. The pipe was 90 years old and had rusted through. Replaced with a 16 foot section of schedule 40 black pipe with union in the middle.
Not bad now it should last another 90years.
Can the water left in the boiler rot out the boiler? seems like I gotta change the water every winter, cause the rust build up starts making lots of noise.
Rusting cannot occur without both water and oxygen. Water helps iron react with oxygen by breaking up the oxygen molecule.
@@kalijasin and that is why we use copper piping in the netherlands, abit more expensive but better on long term
Bro is like lol, your boiler is totally juiced and your service technicians have been screwing you for years.
Max Gelman bs I will bet you he has been told for years it isn’t safe to run and needs replaced and the homeowners refuse to replace it and ask for a temp fix to get them by. I see this type of homeowner daily.
steam boiler leaving on 24/7 or not? What’s best?
Does the comment at 1:15 make sense to anyone? That you can keep the same water in there for 50 years. I drain mine every other week based on advice from our heating maintenance guy.
Stop doing that and get a new "heating maintenance guy"
Don't drain whole system
just throw some JB weld on that hole and he will get through another winter or 2 or 3.. start saving for a boiler now and in 2 years he can replace without feeling the punch of 5- 6k at once
He is right I JB welded a larger hole just above the fire box for a friend of mine...lasted at least another 3 years...jb weld ok to 600°...well above that temp above fire box
Simply run the boiler set at a higher temperature, go outside and check the chimney for white steam exhaust. Welcome a new boiler and Pope if you see this.
No mention of how old the boiler was or how this could have been prevented, ie. what caused it.
I have a leak at the boiler base; left, front corner with a faucet. What can be causing this leak???
hy ,what pressure does it work ? Psi thanks
2psi is optimal in his case zero psi as the boiler had a hole.
Put some flex seal on the hole
i have no leaks and find myself adding water EVERY day. Do i have a problem?
Big problem. .impurities in the water is what eats up steam boilers, once its steamed the water is good, but loosing it and constant make up water i'v seen rot through a boiler in under 10 years.. Bad vents loose steam also costs you make up water.. Leaks on pipes, valves, radiators all will eat up the boiler.
Most people do not know about these heating systems there usually older then the homeowners themselves. Who can blame them.
If you're adding water daily then you have a leak. Maybe a bad vent on a radiator or a main vent. If they dont close when steam hits it, then you're losing steam and have to add water
how do you know you have no leaks? If the hole is above the water line of the boiler you will never see water leak.. it's just escaped into the chimney. go out side in the cold and look for white smoke coming out from the chimney. another way is to filled the water all the way up, you will see leaks.
EXCELLENT
I don't get a good look at the piping. I think it doesn't look anything like the installation manual shows
YERY well made video
Sounds like they need a new HVAC company there is no excuse to miss something like that especially if they are doing clean and checks on the system.
Cant really blame HVAC there not trained in boilers like they are in furnaces.
Then don’t take the call. I am not trained in it but i know if water is leaking from the boiler and all the pipes etc are sealed, it’s probably coming from the inside. Process of elimination and a thorough inspection.
@@mugen-mundo I'm HVAC and I do boilers
If you aren't competent, don't take the call
@@walterbrunswickWish we had well trained HVAC technician around here but we have mostly DIYs turned Pros. I always wondered if any tech would take the time to remove the draft/collector hood ASM and reapply with new sealing cement in a situation like this.
@@mugen-mundo whenever I clean mid-efficiency boiler heat exchangers, always remove, clean, inspect draft hood and venting
located in Toronto
where abouts are you?
can u tell me what can i do to stop me from wasteing oil ...i spent $1300.00 in 4 months what can i do to stop loseing money every year i go though 150 gallon of oil in 3 weeks and upstairs radiators don't work after bleeding them
what should i do to fix it
How big is the house? Steam or hot water system? If hot water, what's the pressure in the boiler when the burner cuts off? What's the temp. when the burner cuts off? Attic insulated? Storm windows? Shades at night?
1st is check for drafts and your insulation. .if you can't hold it, you have to keep producing. Then check your heating system
$1300 in 4 months isn't too outrageous. That is $325 per month which is about average. I have customers that use about 210 gallons every 2.5 weeks and some that can go 1.5 months on 180 gallons.
Several factors contribute to the oil consumption. Size of the house, insulation, windows, thermostat setting, age and efficiency of the boiler to name a few.
As far as the upstairs radiators not working that too can be several different factors. Steam or forced hot water? If forced hot water is it two zones? If it is two zones it could be a zone valve not opening or a circulator pump not working, depends on how the system is configured.
Best advise is to have a local heating contractor inspect the system.
@@george_KC1TQF don't you think it matters the size of the house?? I know people that have 60$ bills & others that have 27 zones in the house which i imagine is crazy more.
@@thomasbroking7943 yes, a 1000 square foot house is easier to heat than a 6000 square foot house. Thus lower fuel consumption due to a smaller heating plant in the smaller house. Size of house was addressed in my previous comment.
steam boilers use water.
that why houses with steam boiler do not have dry air in the winter.
water feeders feeds water into boiler due to lost due to venting in radiators.
if boiler is cracked would the area fill with steam?
Only the part with "steam boilers use water" was correct. Houses with steam boilers are actually very dry. There was a whole sub industry that made evaporating containers to increasing moisture in the air. Vents do not leak any significant amount of steam. Given the whole top of the boiler sections are sealed with the duct work. No the whole area will not fill with steam.I would just leave up the chimney.
Wouldn't that be a vacuum breaker on the return ?
You've made a great video, thanks.
Nope that is a main vent to allow air to escape the main to fill it with steam faster to get to the radiators faster.
Can anybody tell me ?
How to repair very hot running steam line leakage in industrial boilers without stopping bolier or steam.
Saurabh Mehta
No one would recommend that.
Too Risky, and repair would not even last.
Cool down, repair or replace.
@@bauhnguefyische667
Things are alredy going like this way.
We have technology to repair this in this way also.
Plz dont comment thier risk.
Comment only about tecnology.
And in case of heated oil line.
Saurabh Mehta
You have me interested, some of it because of translation. I am aware of commercial products intended for live use/repair but as I understand them it is intended to be temporary. If you have something or a technique that works I would love to hear about it. I’m in the USA, and I am assuming from your YT page that you are in or near India, so we are dealing with different local codes.
Have a good day, Sir. !
How does he get a hole in the boiler like that when all the piping looks great??
Easier and cheaper to replace pipes then to replace whole boiler.
This was awesome
So you have to replace the whole dang thing???
Think they range between $4,000-$10,000 depending on size
HELP! why all my water drained minutes after I filled my steam boiler?
A leak in the wet return probably.
Metal plate and jb weld 😁
Why can't he just get a piece of metal and welded over it! Just an idea 🤔
Why should you never have to add water when steam systems always give off steam through the release valve? Isn't some of the water boiling off over time this way?
In a theoretically perfect steam system no steam/water should be lost. In reality, sometimes there are small leaks due to the age of steam system plus the time the vent does sense the steam till it closes it may spit a little steam out. The radiator vents allow air to vent out of the system. When the vent senses the steam it closes. If you do have steam coming out of the vents more than likely the vent is bad.
@@soxx35 Could not of said it any better. People always want to believe a steam system needs to be hissing steam and spitting water everywhere because it runs of steam. Yet the opposite is true. Steam is your money as it takes BTU to make it. Dont let it get out, else your just tossing money out the window.
Don't understand: If there is an automatic fill and a huge hole in the top of the boiler, why isn't there water all over the floor?
There is a high and low level float, so when the low level float is triggered it fills with water till the high level float is triggered. Because the hole is above the water line nothing poured out, but if it was lower you are looking at a leak on the floor.
There is a probe that detects a low water level. The feeder kicks in when water to bring the water level back up. The feeder has a timer that allow more water to keep feeding even after its has pass the probe. In some cases this could lead to a over filled boiler. Not a good thing. Just another danger of using a auto-feeder.
New peerless steam boiler runs about 8min then shuts down then restarts about 3 times before reaching temperature any ideas
go to heatinghelp.com they have a lot of pros there.. I think your problem might be the low water cut off...
Good thing he's not a customer paid contractor. Wasted an hour checking everything out even tho he first started out at the stream unit lol
How did the hole end up on top of the boiler as opposed to rusting out or cracked at the bottom or sides?
HVAC technician dropped his screwdriver
Greg KEEL um no, to crack a casting like that is due to no maintenance and being over fired by the homeowner for years damaging the casting
My guess is, the bottom of the boiler is being heated by the burners, however the water in the boiler is taking the heat. All boilers have a gap between the water line and the top of the boiler casing. Its called the steam chest. A interesting thing about steam is it expands very violently. This expansion over time is what I believe caused the top to fail. Among other things.
Nah, just put some Flex Tape on the hole....good as new!
I decided to say F it and installed electric wall heating. Easily a DIY job and cost only $400 in parts. Zero maintenance. Simply replace every 10-20 years ( Depending on use). It's also more energy efficient and lowered my bill significantly
Should have simply looked at the top of the chimney to see the steam escaping
Easy enough to put insulating foam over those exposed pipes...What caused the hole Rich?...guess we will never know...
It looks like in Corey Harts Video the steam comes outta the tube rhythmically
Thats a gas boiler, nobody ever tales them apart to brush out the sections. Whoever srvices him has been short changing him.
That is actually an oil boiler, the dead give away is at 1:45 with the Beckett hanging off the front.
@@george_KC1TQF i missed it.. To impressed how they just piped it straight up ,
@@thomasbroking7943 how tf do you miss something like that!? maybe it was you doing these "cleanings"😂
Boiler is way to young to have that problem.
John Mahoney made in Taiwan does it again
Utica boilers are made in the U.S., like most other common brands.
This is what improper water management does to boilers folks. All boilers are designed with corrosion in the mix. However constant intervals of fresh water will rapidly increase the acidic level of the water causing premature corrosion.
There should be no water at the top of the boiler and it looks like the hole is at the top. Steam is pure. Each cycle vents moist air and a little steam from the bleeders. The let air back into the system in the off cycle and the cycles starts over again. During the cold months, the water column should be checked often. You also do not want to pipe it with copper or you will really shorten the life of a steam boiler.
I fixed one like that with PRO-POXY
Hasan Ozcan that isn’t a fix that is a Craigslist special fix
If you are hvac tech you will not do short cut for steam residential boiler especially in Ontario
Hi
If you went outside and looked at the chimney you would see steam 🧖♀️ coming out.
why cant u round out the hole then tap it and place a bolt in it. I think that would work.
Depending on the difference in the coefficient of thermal expansion between the bolt and the body of the boiler you could effectively be loading a gun with a trajectory somewhere in your house.
Boiler sealers are able to chemically bond with the metal of the boiler and stretch/contract with temperature fluctuations. You won't get that from a bolt.
you are wrong, this is a residential boiler, it uses very low pressures (1-5 PSI). This pressure is harmless.
William x
You have never seen loose parts fly
@@williamx574 That is assuming it will always run as intended. There is a reason there is a 15psi safety pressure release valve on it.
That hole is about the size of a golf ball. You would have to drill and tap a hole the size of a tennis ball to get a good chuck of cast iron to tap and hold a bolt. The labor involved would be cost prohibitive and well as just a temporary fix.
so i take it you can't even weld that the hole closed?
I am pretty sure people have tried and even succeeded in plugin a hole that size. However the odds are all the sections are thin wall by now and bound to fail.
Lo on
This is a main reason why NOT to buy any Burhnam product...my boiler had the same issue, and it turned out, it was manufacturing defect (I paid a lab to test the exchanger metal) but Burnham refuse to replace the defect: DISGRACEFUL COMPANY BURNHAM
This call looks like it was already set up think that they already knew that the Steam Boiler had a hole in it
turn the boiler off by thermostat forget setting the thermostat... the feeder is doing the job new boiler is $8000
Could have just overfilled the boiler would have took you 1 min to realize it was cracked
LOL True. You have to start somewhere as the leak could have been anywhere. But then again I would want to avoid the mess on the floor.
I don't understand how there wasn't any condensation on the floor
Steam boilers only have water up to the recommended water line about 70-80% percent of boiler sections. If you were to fill pass the sections then yes water would spill over the top.
Yup. It's what I did and sure enough it started raining.
Man I would've put a $30 block of steel on top of that hole and I would've saved like $4000 😎
fucking idiot
I also think it could be patched... how about a steel washer, bolt, nut, and some kind of a long steel strip to hold from the bottom?
Jogo g tu madre
Its a big rough hole in the iron casting. It's a 500+ degree environment above the burner flames. It needs to be able to retain water, and hold a modest amount of pressure.
No amount of tool shed cobbling, or magic epoxy is going to fix it to the point where someone with common sense would ever trust it.
Change it out, it's done.
On paper it should work.. And no problem voiding any warranty, thats been gone.. The controls don't change, i don't see any problems. .
Now does in need to be taken apart or can it be patched in place? If you need to spend 1,000 bucks to get at it, then pay a welder it's not cost effective.
Whomever serviced that boiler must not have done it right (or is an idiot) because there's no way you miss a hole like that when you clean it (tune up) properly. You most certainly lose some water having steam heat, think about it when you are boiling water on your stove does it not escape through the vents of the lid or push out the edges? The vents on the sides of the radiators are doing just that-venting some and that little bit from each radiator happening over and over eventually leads to some water loss there hoss.
In this day and age of condensing technology, heat pumps, pellet systems, and solar systems, who builds a steam boiler in their house? Industrial plants ok.
I heard mine go with a snap/pop. $5,400. Problem solved. 😏
what's the possibility that hole was caused by improper venting in the chimney? Say the steam in the boiler exhaust reacts with old wood or coal ash on the side of the chimney, condensates and picks up corrosive chemical (possibly becomes alkaline from wood ash), runs down the side of the chimney into the metal flue, then the condensate drips on the top of the boiler causing a rust hole.
Its possible if he has a issue with back draft. But all boilers have a air gap with a temp sensor that trips the gas valve if it detects a reverse draft. usually the leak would be near that gap. some have a funnel shape gap. If there was condensation build up on the chimney it would run out and above the boiler not inside.
That steam boiler probably cost like 6000
Yes but he has all the radiators and pipes already in place. A couple of thousand will buy a new boiler of that size. Labor cost however is a whole other conversation.
think that why stick to forced air. some of them water boiler known to blow up. and get hot as hell. are from 1980s or beyond.does't use steam thour.
A modern system, that hasn't been messed with by an idiot WILL NOT BLOW UP! This is why all boilers have pressure relief valves installed! Boilers also don't really get much hotter than the high limit on most furnaces.
Yea, we have a boiler that break down yeary... one has no control for heating. Gas can stay on and heat up water beyond 200*F. Has been installed in 1980s
MARCELLINO GUARNERO, If the boiler won't shut down once it reaches high limit, then the controller is bad, and needs to be replaced.
yea, most likely. will cost around $3,000 and up to replace whole thing with forced air or go with newer boiler for less.
MARCELLINO GUARNERO Way more than 3K, unless you already have the ducts installed for a central air system.
IMHO boilers are superior to furnaces. They're quieter, and don't blow dry dusty air around. It's allot easier to install, and insulate boiler pipes, then installing ducts. Stick with a boiler.
Fill the boiler to the header and it would of be pouring out of the block. This guy is a amateur
while Richard is a butcher (using pipe wrenches on brass hex fittings), I agree with his method here.... better to inspect visually first, instead of causing Niagara Falls
womp womp