I made my own set a few years ago. I took 1 extra precaution though. After filling the lug cups with solder, and pushing the wire in, I took a 1/4in. diameter punch, and gave each lug a crimp. Then the adhesive heat shrink. It may not have been necessary, but the added security doesn't hurt, and its free.
Good stuff, thanks for posting. My '96 XJ was having some issues with cables, etc. so I am going to do what you have done. I appreciate you taking the time to do this video. Thanks !
I did my 2002 jeep WJ. Soon to do my 2001 jeep XJ in the next few weeks. Great video you did thanks man it helps out a lot. Right now the XJ got new fog lamps new LED head lights and harness with relays. Next delivery will be all new control arms and bushings, then I’ll get rid of the pucks and go with new 3.5 springs and new Back 3.5 lift leaf springs and shocks. I hope then I’ll have it zebart and paint diffs with new seals then going to do the torq-lockers front and back. I hate to say it maybe sound proff it….that I’m not looking forward too.
Great video, thanks! Love the truck, I have a 99 2 door, 5 speed. Really appreciate you providing the lengths for each cable, I am going to assemble my own kit, very much appreciated!
Nice job.I crimped all my fittings with a hydraulic crimper that I got off Ebay for $50.I did two vehicles so I could justify buying the crimper.lol...
After your alternator video, you changed your battery terminals to the military style, good move, much better !! For future wiring jobs, you might want to check out "KnuKonceptz" , they have a cable called "Kolossus" which is beyond awesome, that I used it on my build . I used the 1/0 ga cable which is way overkill, (I like overkill). For the wire, they use OFC (oxygen free copper), 5145 strands ( they're so thin like human hair) and EACH strand is tinned , so you can forget about corrosion and it is so flexible, like a wet noodle, and easy to install in those tight spaces . BTW, the thinner the strands, the more copper wire in the cable . I used a hydraulic crimper (eBay) with 16 tons of force , the strands of copper and the lug practically become one solid unit, providing a very strong mechanical bond . Great video, thanks .
Excellent instruction vehicle my friend I've been wanting to do something like that for very long time I have a question is merely splitting a 120 alternator in place of a 90 amp alternator of k a r d I have to make any adjustments
I have installed a new upgraded 120 amp alternator and new battery but still reading slightly below 14 volts and when turning on headlights and accessories falls down to 13.4. Got any ideas why it won't go back up to 14 or higher? This is on a 96 XJ by the way.
Sounds like something is drawing a lot of current. I’d start by looking at the wiring to the headlights and accessories. Start with whichever accessories that pull the voltage down the most.
It sounds like you’ve got a positive wire touching a body or a ground some where. I’d check down on the alternator first. It possible that the big wire is contacting the case of the alternator or some where on the engine. If it’s not I’d check for continuity between any of the positive wires and the body/ ground.
Problem is where you put the fuse. You have no way to isolate the battery from the vehicle in the event of a short circuit. Also, why use a fuse, why not use a 200a circuit breaker?
I don’t think from factory any vehicle has a way to isolate the battery from vehicle other than disconnecting at the battery. I don’t know if it’s needed. I don’t think there’s a right answer for that situation. Fuse vs breakers is another situation I don’t think has a right answer. I choose fuse because it’s very simple and I just carry a spare fuse
I don't need special clamps do I? Also, I read somewhere 4awg is good too amd went with that. What's your opinion on the 4 vs the 2? I just pulled the wires and havent started cutting yet. Awesome videos btw! Nice seeing a diy-er instead of all those other super sponsored people with trick tools.
You shouldn’t need anything more than what you saw in this video. Sometimes people will crimp the lugs on the end of the wires but I prefer not to. Totally up to you. 4awg will work just fine. Any length under 4 foot will be good to 200amps. That’s more than my overkill 160amp alternator will put out. 2ga wire is harder to work with but it gives me a piece of mind that I don’t have to ever worry about my wires. 4ga is big enough but 2ga is overkill
I was able to clamp the flat potion of the lug in a vise and stick a 3/8” rod into the lug to bend it over. The hole stayed uniformed for me doing it this way.
Was the positive battery cable connected to any other accessories other than the battery, starter, and PDC? I see a small gauge wire connected to the starter that comes out of the same loom as this positive cable. I'm wondering if this small wire is separate from the positive cable and connects possibly the alternator and starter together??
The battery positive connects to the starter and PDC. That small wire on the starter is for the solenoid which engages the starter gear to the flywheel. In a round about way that wire connects to the key start position ignition switch.
Wondering why you chose to go with black cable from Alt to fuse to Batt? I'd guess that goes to the + terminal on the battery. Right? If so, I'd think red would be the better choice... Wondering.
This is a great video, but looking at your prices for materials, it makes more sense to purchase a battery cable upgrade kit from k suspensions or Jeep cables.com. Not advocating for these companies necessarily but this exact setup with 2awg wire, 250 amp fuse and terminals is $120 with free shipping. Your amazon links total almost $130 and then you have to build everything still. I’m all for diy but if it can be bought cheaper as a bolt on kit, why not go that route?
I chose to build them myself rather than buying them. That way I could make the cables exactly how I want them. It definitely would have been easier and slightly cheaper to buy them pre made but then I’m stuck with jeep cables or k suspensions wire routing and fuse placement. There’s nothing wrong with their products. I just like having the chose.
Some people don’t like soldering lugs on. Seems weaker to that crowd. My thought is that if done correctly soldering can be just as strong as a mechanical crimp. In the end, both can fail if done incorrectly.
If you buy extra cable, lugs and a crimping tool you have it forever for friends vehicles or future upgrades like wiring winches and stuff. I prefer to do it myself if its the same price and ill have extra material and tools for future uses:
I made my own set a few years ago.
I took 1 extra precaution though.
After filling the lug cups with solder, and pushing the wire in, I took a 1/4in. diameter punch, and gave each lug a crimp. Then the adhesive heat shrink.
It may not have been necessary, but the added security doesn't hurt, and its free.
Great idea. It’s just added reinsurance it won’t come apart
Good stuff, thanks for posting. My '96 XJ was having some issues with cables, etc. so I am going to do what you have done. I appreciate you taking the time to do this video. Thanks !
I did my 2002 jeep WJ. Soon to do my 2001 jeep XJ in the next few weeks. Great video you did thanks man it helps out a lot.
Right now the XJ got new fog lamps new LED head lights and harness with relays. Next delivery will be all new control arms and bushings, then I’ll get rid of the pucks and go with new 3.5 springs and new Back 3.5 lift leaf springs and shocks. I hope then I’ll have it zebart and paint diffs with new seals then going to do the torq-lockers front and back. I hate to say it maybe sound proff it….that I’m not looking forward too.
Great video, thanks! Love the truck, I have a 99 2 door, 5 speed. Really appreciate you providing the lengths for each cable, I am going to assemble my own kit, very much appreciated!
Loved that starter sound confirmation!!
Looks good! Love the music!
Although I must say I'm a big fan of dielectric grease. That's my only note for your very good video.
Nice job.I crimped all my fittings with a hydraulic crimper that I got off Ebay for $50.I did two vehicles so I could justify buying the crimper.lol...
Those hydraulic crimpers are the cats pajamas for sure lol
After your alternator video, you changed your battery terminals to the military style, good move, much better !! For future wiring jobs, you might want to check out "KnuKonceptz" , they have a cable called "Kolossus" which is beyond awesome, that I used it on my build . I used the 1/0 ga cable which is way overkill, (I like overkill). For the wire, they use OFC (oxygen free copper), 5145 strands ( they're so thin like human hair) and EACH strand is tinned , so you can forget about corrosion and it is so flexible, like a wet noodle, and easy to install in those tight spaces . BTW, the thinner the strands, the more copper wire in the cable . I used a hydraulic crimper (eBay) with 16 tons of force , the strands of copper and the lug practically become one solid unit, providing a very strong mechanical bond . Great video, thanks .
Videos are great! Keep ‘em coming!! ❤️🐞
i know I am pretty randomly asking but does anyone know of a good site to watch new movies online ?
@Gannon Gus Flixportal :D
@Kevin Finnegan thank you, I signed up and it seems like a nice service =) I appreciate it!
@Gannon Gus no problem :D
solid video, thanks for the tips.
NICE!!!
Just what I was looking for!!
Valuable video. Thank a lot, bro!!
________________________oo________________________ no problem man! Thanks for watching!
Excellent instruction vehicle my friend I've been wanting to do something like that for very long time I have a question is merely splitting a 120 alternator in place of a 90 amp alternator of k a r d I have to make any adjustments
I'm not exactly sure. Depending on what year your jeep is (1997,1998), the 120 amp alternator was an option.
@@TheOffRoadCorner 13:42
I just don’t understand why both wires connected to the fuse aren’t the same color…am I missing something?
I have installed a new upgraded 120 amp alternator and new battery but still reading slightly below 14 volts and when turning on headlights and accessories falls down to 13.4. Got any ideas why it won't go back up to 14 or higher? This is on a 96 XJ by the way.
Sounds like something is drawing a lot of current. I’d start by looking at the wiring to the headlights and accessories. Start with whichever accessories that pull the voltage down the most.
great video. very helpful
Glad it was helpful! thanks for watching!
sooo that's how u solder them in ohh ok how much do u put in each lug
Jason Vaughn I pretty much fill the pocket of the lug up to the top. That way I know I got solder on all the strands of wire.
@@TheOffRoadCorner Great video. That way of soldering looks simple and solid.
@@TheOffRoadCorner do you use flux? i didnt see you add it?
Did this today and my 150 amp fuse blew as soon as I connected the negative terminal. Any idea why?
It sounds like you’ve got a positive wire touching a body or a ground some where. I’d check down on the alternator first. It possible that the big wire is contacting the case of the alternator or some where on the engine. If it’s not I’d check for continuity between any of the positive wires and the body/ ground.
@@TheOffRoadCorner That's exactly what it was. Cheers mate!
Great video! Congratulations did you use the 175 fuse or 240 fuse ?
I’m still running the 175amp fuse. It hasn’t blown
What alt u used
muchas gracias desde colombia ..muy buena la ayuda
Problem is where you put the fuse. You have no way to isolate the battery from the vehicle in the event of a short circuit. Also, why use a fuse, why not use a 200a circuit breaker?
I don’t think from factory any vehicle has a way to isolate the battery from vehicle other than disconnecting at the battery. I don’t know if it’s needed. I don’t think there’s a right answer for that situation. Fuse vs breakers is another situation I don’t think has a right answer. I choose fuse because it’s very simple and I just carry a spare fuse
Nice work, you really should have wire brushed all your body grounds etc. A lot of work gone to waste without a good connection.
Great point!
I don't need special clamps do I? Also, I read somewhere 4awg is good too amd went with that. What's your opinion on the 4 vs the 2? I just pulled the wires and havent started cutting yet.
Awesome videos btw! Nice seeing a diy-er instead of all those other super sponsored people with trick tools.
You shouldn’t need anything more than what you saw in this video. Sometimes people will crimp the lugs on the end of the wires but I prefer not to. Totally up to you. 4awg will work just fine. Any length under 4 foot will be good to 200amps. That’s more than my overkill 160amp alternator will put out. 2ga wire is harder to work with but it gives me a piece of mind that I don’t have to ever worry about my wires. 4ga is big enough but 2ga is overkill
@@TheOffRoadCorner awesome! Thanks again man
No problem. Thanks for watching!
How did you bend your lugs without warping the holes?
I was able to clamp the flat potion of the lug in a vise and stick a 3/8” rod into the lug to bend it over. The hole stayed uniformed for me doing it this way.
Was the positive battery cable connected to any other accessories other than the battery, starter, and PDC? I see a small gauge wire connected to the starter that comes out of the same loom as this positive cable. I'm wondering if this small wire is separate from the positive cable and connects possibly the alternator and starter together??
The battery positive connects to the starter and PDC. That small wire on the starter is for the solenoid which engages the starter gear to the flywheel. In a round about way that wire connects to the key start position ignition switch.
Wondering why you chose to go with black cable from Alt to fuse to Batt? I'd guess that goes to the + terminal on the battery. Right? If so, I'd think red would be the better choice... Wondering.
Who cares?
Now you need to lift that jeep lol
12:51 you're getting a lot of draw from your wenches, huh? I hear that.
This is a great video, but looking at your prices for materials, it makes more sense to purchase a battery cable upgrade kit from k suspensions or Jeep cables.com. Not advocating for these companies necessarily but this exact setup with 2awg wire, 250 amp fuse and terminals is $120 with free shipping. Your amazon links total almost $130 and then you have to build everything still. I’m all for diy but if it can be bought cheaper as a bolt on kit, why not go that route?
I chose to build them myself rather than buying them. That way I could make the cables exactly how I want them. It definitely would have been easier and slightly cheaper to buy them pre made but then I’m stuck with jeep cables or k suspensions wire routing and fuse placement. There’s nothing wrong with their products. I just like having the chose.
The Off Road Corner I agree, and the fact you used solder with your ends is that much better.
Some people don’t like soldering lugs on. Seems weaker to that crowd. My thought is that if done correctly soldering can be just as strong as a mechanical crimp. In the end, both can fail if done incorrectly.
If you buy extra cable, lugs and a crimping tool you have it forever for friends vehicles or future upgrades like wiring winches and stuff. I prefer to do it myself if its the same price and ill have extra material and tools for future uses:
@@zachzimmer6922 exactly. this is a great way to gather tools for future use.
Double aught??? Fucking overkill on top overkill