Congrats! Very impressive, I’ve never seen any work done to these heads posted on TH-cam. I have a whole lot to learn, I’d love to see more of this motor. I’m currently building a g37.
I'll try and make some more videos....all I build is vr38 and vq37....I may make a walk around video and explain whats necessary for different power levels up to around 1200hp
Good info. Also you mentioned this cant really be done in frame. Yes it can ,we do it all the time when installing JWT and JUN cams. Most likely easy for us since its a common job for us.
Hey Seth great videos really helped with rebuilding my timing and calibrating vvel. But please help my car won’t start and I’ve changed everything I’ve even sent it to a shop and they can’t figure it out. Basically I have a Nissan Infiniti fx37s. It stopped starting, had camshaft sensor fault. Unplugged sensor car would start. I then replaced both sensors for new oem. Car still wouldn’t start only with the left hand bank unplugged. I then took the timing cover off, there was no sign of any problems tensioners looked good soo did chains and all sprockets was on their marks. I replaced chains tensioners guides and sprockets. I also checked the vvel calibration which was good as per your video. I also changed the intake solenoids on the timing cover. Car still would not start only with left sensor unplugged. I forgot to ad the first thing I did was change oil and filter. Anyway I’ve changed all of that and it still won’t start. If the sensor is unplugged and I start it it only revs up to 3400rpm if I plug sensor in it won’t stop, if I turn it off it won’t turn on. With sensor plugged in and code’s deleted, try to start does not generate new codes anymore only when im unplugging the sensor. Please help im really confused and frustrated at this point I can only think to change intake sprocket or power control module.
He Seth thanks for the video im not very knowledgeable with these infiniti motors but i have a 2014 Q50 engine had a guy that swapped it to a 2014 370z VVEL stayed on the engine assembly and it seems to have a timing issue barely starts and seems to maybe have advanced timing… are you able to chime some advice on this topic please… thanks in advance
That's super kind, thank u...if u have any suggestions I'll make a video..I can cover any system..from triple disc clutches to engine break in procedures, I have a lot of useless knowledge 😉
@@orangehammock lol...I'm soooooo backed up on work....however, what area are u in and what internals/ power goals do u have?..I can steer u to the right machine shop or engine builder
my brother, after assembling the vk56de engine, makes a lot of noise, I can't understand where the noise comes from, but I suspect the vvel mechanism // did this repair for the first time, you can give a hint
sorry for the beyond late response, hopefully you fixed it....always make sure that your vvel solenoid harnesses didnt get swapped accidently through the reinstall process
Seth, just finished building the VQ37 for a friend, did the VVEL adj. to get the proper measurement i removed the motors and adj. the worm gear till i had 1.585 sound correct? Great video BTW
Can you replace these without timing or taking the whole engine out ? Mine is causing a misfire and I’m not sure if I can replace it myself or I have to take it into the shop or take the engine out myself?
@@sethjoyner391hey man my 370z my car won’t accelerate so took it too a shop and replaced the sensors but then months later did it again so what part am I supposed to replace vvel control module but idk what part is that one and get the other part and reprogram it ?
For guys doing cam swaps in car, that would be out of the question, it also somehow isn't that accurate since the adjustment is so small...u can try 😏...I've tried this in multiple different fashions
@@tarassymonik7603 they did....if you buy a brand new vvel motor assembly; they're is a small black plastic locater that i have found to be highly inaccurate...nissan does not want people knowing about this engineering fail or the gallery gaskets in the timing cover essentially imo
@@sethjoyner391 thanks, now I start to search what's wrong with gallery gaskets:-) So, there is no precise way to assemble head with vvel (even new with jig) is that what you are saying? If I am not mistaken, even if you have brand new head with vvel motor and you want install it, you still need to remove camshafts to get to head mounting bolts, is it correct?
@@tarassymonik7603 yea man....nissan has no real good answers...all I know is the process i came up with...just had a 370z dyno 900whp and 800fttq....this just works, don't know why.lol
I’m pretty new to G37s and I had a question bro, If I’m doing an upper cam tensioner swap, this has to come off obviously. Would I even have to remove the sensor to take this off and lift the ladder so I can swap the tensioner?
Lol...you already know...mind you, the nissan service literature doesn't call for cam tensioner replacement during a standard timing chain service nor do I typically think it's necessary, I use new ones on big power builds or if specifically requested by the customer. Which I've done before, but won't fall into the trap of letting them shot call since the whole tower system has to come off and it's very time consuming
The entire vvel motor control and tower system must be removed in it's entirety to do secondary cam tensioners...all liquid sealed, control cam rephased, vvel reset
@@sethjoyner391 I had my motor swapped at 117k but I’m pretty sure the dealer used a lot of the old parts as possible as my new engine had the bank 2 tensioner completely fail. My question I guess comes down to, if I can create specific markings on the cam, measure the actuator prior to taking it off, and realign everything exactly the same way it was prior, would it have to be reset? What calls for the reset?
@@jamballer2003jmHow was that even possible? The ladder assembly blocks the front bolts which are unable to be extracted with it in place. The only way I can see that working is by cutting or drilling an access hole in the ladder assembly to remove the blocked bolts, and avoid messing with VVEL.
Awesome video! Question, do you guys have any experience with replacing just the black VVEL motor itself on the head? I bought a used motor with a broken connector and swapped the motor itself from my old engine. Now I’m running into an issue where my car only cranks and won’t start unless the crank sensor is unplugged. I’ve verified the flywheel is positioned correctly and the timing chains were set correctly. I wonder if this has anything to do with my problem. Any input would be appreciated!
@@frankp4071 wassup man! I was wondering if by any chance you found the fix for your problem because I am running into the exact same situation as you. I switched the driver side Black VVEL Sensor with the 4 hex bolts up top since the one from the motor I bought was broken. I DID NOT remove the whole assembly that connects to the cam. Now when I go to start my car, just cranks but doesn’t start. I have tried the VVEL position Relearn with my scanner but still no luck. Help would be greatly appreciated!
Not sure if you’re still active on here… but my car just started to have issues with bank 2 VVEL. Out of no where. I have to disconnect the battery for it to work properly again then maybe 40-50 miles later light comes back on an no throttle response what can it be?
Is the space that's created by slack( after setting vvel arms @1.585) my 5.5 degrees? So, both cams stay flat against heads or both cams get the slight movement into a gapped position?
sup man i’m getting a p1606 and u1003 after a drive for so long they pop up out of no where and the car goes into limp mode. do you think this fix will get rid of this problem? there’s rarely any threads or vids about those codes and when i do find a thread there’s never a answer to the fix this has been hell thanks
Seth is that measurement the same for both sides? Also how have you gotten this measurement? Meaning have you bought a new one and measured the new one then took that measurement and have that for future references? Thanks a bunch :)
essentially yes, i measured the distance on a sealed low mileage drop out...pulled it up to #1 tdc, then locked the control cams full counter clockwise and made my measurement...it's not a perfect way, but it does seem to work!...i've played with this system back and fourth trying to get the cars to power up on the dyno; seems that if you're off even a degree or two (from the pre determined 5.5 degrees) the sensors are too far off to get it within range and you will get bizarre vvel values....and it runs horrible
@@sethjoyner391 so I did what was shown in the video but still ran into issues, i got good news though. Im working on a fix to be able to get the motor to 5.5 degree's without nissans plastic jig. My sensors are within range with your fix but one side can be at 4 degrees and the other at 7 degrees. total the car has to be at 11 degrees and 5.5 on each side. You could measure both sides but they still might not be 5.5 degrees. My fix is to put a magnetic digital angle finder on the camshaft, zero the gauge and then move it 5.5 degrees :) ill let you know if it works
@@gary4864 I think you can just print on 3d printer triangle (prism) with one corner 5,5 degree and place on surface wich limits camshaft movement, then turn camshaft to press it to triangle, so you should get exact 5,5 degree. Or you can order such triangle jig made from aluminium.
What kind of codes with this trigger if it was to be done wrong ??? Or would the car even run at all , my cars been throwing camshaft and maf sensor codes both for bank b and going into limp mode . Huge headache here
Very true...I'm not sure, but I've done it on quite a few engines at this point...I felt like the factory nissan tool was useless, I also used it as a reference when coming up with this method. It may not be factory perfect; however, I feel like it gets the motor beyond or at its dwell point (which I thinkis the problem with the design), which allows you to get the sensor itself within range...not perfect, but our alternatives are like angle gauges etc
@@sethjoyner391 So i just did my secondary chain-tensioners and my car should run tomorrow, if i didnt do what your saying and just slapped my vvels back, what is the possibility that the vvel will be way out of time? Not looking for any ponies just want to my car running with least effort.
Great video, thank you. I have a question, hopefully you can help. My son has an 09 G37x, with a handful of bolt-on mods and exhaust. Car runs great for the most part, but will get a slight miss at times, like bad gas. 2 days ago it started getting sluggish to start (battery going maybe), then a slight fluttery sounding knock in the right front of the engine. It sounds weird, will speed up when revved, then near cut out when coming down. Read some posts VVEL related, maybe flashing ECU. Any idea where to start with this ? Planning a new battery first, just in case that could mess with the ECU. Any help would be appreciated.
Hey Seth, curious question I think I’m having VVEL issues comes and goes, engine runs perfectly fine super quiet It’s a g37 IPL coupe only 12,000 miles on it, but randomly out of nowhere I get this strange noise and then it will go away if I leave it running for a little bit or I’ll shut the car off and restart it and it just disappears ? It literally does it randomly and sometimes it doesn’t happen at all. Motor sounds so smooth so it’s just confusing. Is it a serious issue ? Should I not be driving it ?
Shout out to all the rookie engine builders. (Such as myself) if your lapping your valves for a good seal, don't be like me & not check your valve clearances after ending up with all your exhasut clearances being too tight. Causing glowing red manifolds on your exhaust . You can do everything right but miss this one crucial step, you will tear it all apart.
We are having a P1093 code after rebuilding the motor Tomorrow we are going to open up the head and ladder to with on the motor to try and fix this It's a heavily modified car. If we can't get it to work tomorrow I am willing to bring it to you if it's correct that you are in Maryland. I am outside Philly Let me know
U only need to get the valve covers off and the rear aluminum covers off that bolt to the control motors...loosen the Allen heads in the back etc, measure, adjust, lock down...go through the regular vvel reset and clocking of the actual sensors
@@sethjoyner391 I have ecutek but can't figure out how to get the voltage for the sensor. It at 2.4v and 3.2v when at idle Seems way off Also the learned is at .39v Honestly if you have the time. I have the money to pay sometime for help as I can't find anyone that knows anything about this Let me know and I'll share my info with you directly somehow Also can't find the reset of the vvel system in ecutek
Nissan consult, or u would have to identify and alligator clip (minor wire jacket removal) and u can do it with a multi meter...just seem extremely tedious...
Would I have to do this if I had heads redone …. I got the motor back in the car and it starts and then just dies ….. at first I could keep it up to 1100rpm but now it just won’t stay running
@@sethjoyner391 just one last opinion … so I had heads fully rebuilt and then upgraded to cometic gaskets and arp studs …. Upon first fire it would stay running at 1100 rpm only if I kept foot floored to the ground … if I let off of gas it would die …. I then messed with sensors on back of vvel and now car won’t even idle at full throttle ….. finally got codes to pop up p0102, p0301 , p0303, p1092, p1233,,,, car fires and then sounds like a old cammed hotrod for 3 seconds then dies ….. assuming all sensors are hooked up properly and the timing is perfect on the motor …… ur saying 99 percent this is the vvel? … should I try to adjust it or just do a motor swap out of a running vq I just found for 1300$
After we tighten the 2 bolts connecting the motor, do I spin the crank off top dead center and procceed to put it back together or does it not matter? Im sorry for commenting so much but i’ve been dealing with this for almost a year now and its so frustrating
All good...You're going to do the one side first...lock it down....slowly rotate the crank clockwise 120 degrees or so and set the other side, then put back together complete.....then electronic vvel reset etc
i have a 2015 q50s with under 65K miles. I have started throwing code P1089. Any ideas what to check first? It randomly throws this code and instantly goes into limp mode. I can clear the code and itll run fine. Seems like a bad sensor to me?
My first thoughts are a couple short interval oil changes and some hard driving (to exclude vvel solenoid malfunction?) Replacement of vvel relay or inspection of terminal contact
@@sethjoyner391 well. I changed the oil. It didn’t come back on for about a week. Then It came on one day randomly. So i think the actual solenoid is fine. Because when it runs good, it runs perfect. Then it will throw this code randomly, and I’ll clear it right away and it’ll be back to normal. So my guess is the sensor.
Seth, I'm having issues getting my 2011 to start after replacing the timing chains. I've followed all instructions and initially it ran like a sewing machine for about 30 seconds and the RPM's went up and down like a wave 3 times and shut off. Haven't been able to start it since. Fuel pressure was at about 50psi when attempting to start and compression was at 115 and 110 on the first pop. I'm at a loss here. Any help would be great
Seth, I'll look into resetting the vvel sensors. I was in there because car cut off on me without warning. Had car scanned and the cam sensors cam up. Read forums and car started with bank 1 cam sensor pulled and ran in limp mode, but like garbage. Read some more and some other guys had it brought to a dealer and confirmed timing was off, so I pulled it all apart and bank 2 was off a tooth. Installed new chains and tensioners as well as cam and crank sensors. Fuel pressure is good and compression. However, those pricey cam actuator sprockets I did not replace. Could those get messed up?
@@kilroy6716 ok, so, sometimes that encoder wheel that the cam sensor uses as the mag pickup for cam timing can shift, or move...it looks like it's a one piece intake sprocket visually; but obviously we know its multiple pieces (this is what advances or retards the centerline of the primary intake camshaft at varying rpms....that encoder wheel on older cars will actually slip and twist inside the sprocket and can be off be varying degrees of distance making a no start condition from the encoder not being synchronized as it passes by the cam sensor) Clark@JWT told me to his knowledge these sprockets have been revised 4 times for this issue...there is also a "rebuild procedure online to reclock the encoder wheel on the sprocket)
@@sethjoyner391 ok this information helps quite a bit. Sounds like this might very well be the problem. No engine codes either so it's been a struggle trying to troubleshoot all this and I am by no means a mechanic. But I can read and have help from my buddy at his shop so we'll look into this tomorrow and I'll keep you posted. I do appreciate the response and the information very much!
@@sethjoyner391 thank you! Stock 2010 g37 engine code p1089 keeps coming back after driving fine but udling kinda rough. I replaced the vvel computer which was the problem I think because it fixed it but where I messed up was I took the passenger side sensor out and replaced it with a 40k mile q50 it seemed fine at first drove about 200 miles but light came back on and limp mode again. Still safe thing
@@sethjoyner391 also, at some rotation points the car literally throws a p0300 and p1089 code after start up and idles really bad. At the moment I just guessed and tried to align it as close to the lines as possible so it drives ok but still idles bad and codes comes back but takes longer
@Ahmadzeee I think u answered your question...if u didn't go through the sensor reset procedure; it will definitely not work right...it has to be "dialed in" via voltage and a relay procedure
Honestly, probably better off finding a wrecked but running or an engine from a quality salvage yard...the motors I do are all forged internals and all brand new components...thousands Basically...and a factory rebuild is similarly expensive as far as time and factory parts...money ahead to find a lower mileage drop out
So I'm following your lead and after the car is warmed up, after pushing idle to 4k rpm, as the engine comes down bank 2 vvel p1093, p1092 and limp mode.
@@sethjoyner391 I just hooked up a computer last night to the ecu and it looks like the sensors were way out of voltage spec by almost 75 percent. Will tighten everything up today and take it for a test drive. Also what is standard cam degree at idle? Right now im at around 7 degrees at idle for each bank. Thanks, you have poise and brains when talking through 370 motor!
@sethjoyner391 didn't reset the vvl also we aligned the sensor with a mark that was there from where the sensor use to set. Probly should rest and double check the sensors. How do I reset it? Is there a video link you can send me?? I have a very nice scan tool so I can hopfully use it to read live data. I apperciate you getting back to me I didn't expect that lol
@brandenlaferrara9503 ahhhh....yea, I think ur still good....look for the video on my channel about the sensor reset procedure...this is the final process...I use ecutek, it can be done with nissan consult etc
I will keep you up to date. Going to thus weekend I seen that video btw thank you so much dude seriously.. this shit is better then Facebook discussions page 🤣🤣🤣
@thatsubae not imo...I think it would probably be more related to a crank sensor or the dreaded bank 1 intake sprocket encoder slippage (mechanical failure) wherein the bank 1 intake cam sensor can't identify the reference point for the mag pickup.
@@sethjoyner391 gotcha i have a car on my side jobs. I identified the timing off, corrected the timing with new chain and tensioner, put everything together and still wont start, will start if I unplug the cam sensor
@@sethjoyner391 hey so it did ended up being the Cam sprocket on bank 1. I redid a cam crank correlation on the scope, and it was off on where the cam sensor reads it. Italled a new one and it started up. Thanks for the pointer!
Mostly this is a procedure for r&i on motor builds, cam changes etc...however if u have a stepper motor malfunction u can hear grinding or metal on metal contact with the worm drive assembly..it will be audible at the motor...also u can have excessive valvetrain rattle on that bank, misfire etc..the sound will be isolated to the intake cam and sprocket area...along with correlating dtc's etc
I have done a 2009 G37, timing chain, second chain, sprockets. and now the codes came back on with p0011at first, then I hit the gas, shows up p0021 When I changed the sprocket, the old sprocket was off a tiny degree compared to the new one (the cam sensor signal on the sprocket) It runs good at Idle but It won't rev up 2500rpm. I wished I wouldve waited for the Galley gasket. I told the customer since begining but somehow he don't have any parts but the timing kit, then the sprockets came in and I just want to finish (what a dump of me), reason I did that because I saw a video saidd VQ37 doesn't have a failed galley issue, I inspected the gasket, and the sprockets made me think that I caught it.
@@sethjoyner391 The harnesss seems to be corrected. *update: I removed the timing chain once again and replaced the gallery gasket ( dealer part) , put it back together, running good at idle, won't rev up 3500rpm, p0011 came back, alternator has'nt been charging because someone changed it twice with new plug and wired.
@lucasvaughn9423 u checked the bank 1 vtc covers triple dynamic seals and vtc solenoid is actuating? U also changed the intake sprockets to new factory units? Common causes on that year are sprocket failure (encoder slips)..also have you confirmed oil pressure on a manual gauge?
I'm having timing problems on a QX56 and I suspect that this system has collapsed thus retarding the time on bank 1. When changing the chain and guides, if the intake VVT actuators are rotated which can be moved by hand, will the calibration be off if this somehow be disturbed? I don't know what else would make the time retarded but I can see that the camshaft moves back and forth as the phaser is rotated.
sorry for the late reply....if you just moved the control shaft back and forth but never loosened it....however, u may need to reset the vvel system to relearn
Did you ever get this fixed? And was this a VK56VD or DE engine? I'm having something similar to this on my m56 and after changing my timing chains, it's not starting.
@@Broke2FastGarage I believe it was a VK, we sent it to the dealer and they supposedly slapped a new timing actuator solenoid, though I had changed those recently. I believe that all they did was reset the learned values but I could be wrong. The car not starting is a different issue for you. For the timing to be right, just install the sprockets (they have guides on the cam) and then route it with the chain marks.
@@clooperdooper391 bet they didn't do my procedure to degree the control cam in sync with the vvel...almost no one knows about this...u need to pull the intake manifold, valve cover, rear aluminum cam cover etc and measure it like I did...almost 100% the control cam is degree'd incorrectly...these vvel motors rarely seem to go bad...most engine builders don't know this unless they specifically build nissan
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Congrats! Very impressive, I’ve never seen any work done to these heads posted on TH-cam. I have a whole lot to learn, I’d love to see more of this motor. I’m currently building a g37.
I'll try and make some more videos....all I build is vr38 and vq37....I may make a walk around video and explain whats necessary for different power levels up to around 1200hp
@@sethjoyner391 I have a question. What do you think of being locked into a fixed VVEL position maximum valve position ????
@@sethjoyner391 hi, can I make a 3.7 vhr work with HR harness and ECM?
@@georgepressel2495 oh, definitely not...this swap would be extensive believe it or not
Good info. Also you mentioned this cant really be done in frame. Yes it can ,we do it all the time when installing JWT and JUN cams. Most likely easy for us since its a common job for us.
Lol..the video is for backyard mechanics...it's also a waste of time for me to do in frame...I've never had anyone just do exhaust cams
Hey Seth great videos really helped with rebuilding my timing and calibrating vvel. But please help my car won’t start and I’ve changed everything I’ve even sent it to a shop and they can’t figure it out. Basically I have a Nissan Infiniti fx37s. It stopped starting, had camshaft sensor fault. Unplugged sensor car would start. I then replaced both sensors for new oem. Car still wouldn’t start only with the left hand bank unplugged. I then took the timing cover off, there was no sign of any problems tensioners looked good soo did chains and all sprockets was on their marks. I replaced chains tensioners guides and sprockets. I also checked the vvel calibration which was good as per your video. I also changed the intake solenoids on the timing cover. Car still would not start only with left sensor unplugged. I forgot to ad the first thing I did was change oil and filter. Anyway I’ve changed all of that and it still won’t start. If the sensor is unplugged and I start it it only revs up to 3400rpm if I plug sensor in it won’t stop, if I turn it off it won’t turn on. With sensor plugged in and code’s deleted, try to start does not generate new codes anymore only when im unplugging the sensor. Please help im really confused and frustrated at this point I can only think to change intake sprocket or power control module.
I gotta do cam chain tensioners with my timing chain kit and removing the ladder assembly is a must, thanks for the tip, I hope this works out
How it come out bro
Just unbolt it
@@shawns10 no I meant like, how did the outcome of your fix go lol you were able to use the same vvel actuator?
I did it without removing the ladder assembly, or stepper motor housing.
@@lucasvaughn9423how were you able to change tensioner without removing latter assembly if I may ask?
He Seth thanks for the video im not very knowledgeable with these infiniti motors but i have a 2014 Q50 engine had a guy that swapped it to a 2014 370z VVEL stayed on the engine assembly and it seems to have a timing issue barely starts and seems to maybe have advanced timing… are you able to chime some advice on this topic please… thanks in advance
Is the dimension for the gap in reference from the inner wall for the spring gap, or are you measuring to the little collar just above it?
more VQ info like this please...thank you for posting
That's super kind, thank u...if u have any suggestions I'll make a video..I can cover any system..from triple disc clutches to engine break in procedures, I have a lot of useless knowledge 😉
@@sethjoyner391 where can I send my block to you for final assembly
@@orangehammock lol...I'm soooooo backed up on work....however, what area are u in and what internals/ power goals do u have?..I can steer u to the right machine shop or engine builder
Is this same for g50 2014. My guys removed the VVEL, now we have unstable engine
my brother, after assembling the vk56de engine, makes a lot of noise, I can't understand where the noise comes from, but I suspect the vvel mechanism // did this repair for the first time, you can give a hint
sorry for the beyond late response, hopefully you fixed it....always make sure that your vvel solenoid harnesses didnt get swapped accidently through the reinstall process
Hi brother, what value will the Beam set to less than 5v or 5.5v??? And to make a mono video , how do you set the position sensors ? Thanks .
Seth, just finished building the VQ37 for a friend, did the VVEL adj. to get the proper measurement i removed the motors and adj. the worm gear till i had 1.585 sound correct?
Great video BTW
Can you replace these without timing or taking the whole engine out ? Mine is causing a misfire and I’m not sure if I can replace it myself or I have to take it into the shop or take the engine out myself?
What codes, year car, describe the issue
@@sethjoyner391 it’s a code p1090
Infiniti q50 2015
The vvel actuator motor from what I found the left one is failing and is causing the 3 plugs on that side to fail causing the misfire
@@sethjoyner391hey man my 370z my car won’t accelerate so took it too a shop and replaced the sensors but then months later did it again so what part am I supposed to replace vvel control module but idk what part is that one and get the other part and reprogram it ?
@@daniellopez3606 what year car?
Great video. Why can't you just put mach marks on cam and vvel arm before unscrewing bolts? So later on you can assemble it back in same position?
For guys doing cam swaps in car, that would be out of the question, it also somehow isn't that accurate since the adjustment is so small...u can try 😏...I've tried this in multiple different fashions
@@sethjoyner391 Mach marks didn't work? :-) I am wondering why no one copied oem jig for vvel actuator so far.
@@tarassymonik7603 they did....if you buy a brand new vvel motor assembly; they're is a small black plastic locater that i have found to be highly inaccurate...nissan does not want people knowing about this engineering fail or the gallery gaskets in the timing cover essentially imo
@@sethjoyner391 thanks, now I start to search what's wrong with gallery gaskets:-) So, there is no precise way to assemble head with vvel (even new with jig) is that what you are saying? If I am not mistaken, even if you have brand new head with vvel motor and you want install it, you still need to remove camshafts to get to head mounting bolts, is it correct?
@@tarassymonik7603 yea man....nissan has no real good answers...all I know is the process i came up with...just had a 370z dyno 900whp and 800fttq....this just works, don't know why.lol
I have a question. What do you think of being locked into a fixed VVEL position maximum valve position ????
I’m pretty new to G37s and I had a question bro, If I’m doing an upper cam tensioner swap, this has to come off obviously. Would I even have to remove the sensor to take this off and lift the ladder so I can swap the tensioner?
Lol...you already know...mind you, the nissan service literature doesn't call for cam tensioner replacement during a standard timing chain service nor do I typically think it's necessary, I use new ones on big power builds or if specifically requested by the customer. Which I've done before, but won't fall into the trap of letting them shot call since the whole tower system has to come off and it's very time consuming
The entire vvel motor control and tower system must be removed in it's entirety to do secondary cam tensioners...all liquid sealed, control cam rephased, vvel reset
@@sethjoyner391 I had my motor swapped at 117k but I’m pretty sure the dealer used a lot of the old parts as possible as my new engine had the bank 2 tensioner completely fail. My question I guess comes down to, if I can create specific markings on the cam, measure the actuator prior to taking it off, and realign everything exactly the same way it was prior, would it have to be reset? What calls for the reset?
I've seen the secondary tensioner shoe wear down on these in multiple groups. I replaced both tensioners without removing the deck or vvel.
@@jamballer2003jmHow was that even possible? The ladder assembly blocks the front bolts which are unable to be extracted with it in place. The only way I can see that working is by cutting or drilling an access hole in the ladder assembly to remove the blocked bolts, and avoid messing with VVEL.
Awesome video! Question, do you guys have any experience with replacing just the black VVEL motor itself on the head? I bought a used motor with a broken connector and swapped the motor itself from my old engine.
Now I’m running into an issue where my car only cranks and won’t start unless the crank sensor is unplugged. I’ve verified the flywheel is positioned correctly and the timing chains were set correctly. I wonder if this has anything to do with my problem. Any input would be appreciated!
Not sure, did you have to disconnect the motor control arm from the control cam?
@@sethjoyner391 no I did not. Just the 4 bolts up top, slips off, and replaced
@@frankp4071 hmm, did you go through the vvel relearn procedure? adjusting the sensors etc?
Is this the only method to set the vvel timing back to factory settings?
@@frankp4071 wassup man! I was wondering if by any chance you found the fix for your problem because I am running into the exact same situation as you. I switched the driver side Black VVEL Sensor with the 4 hex bolts up top since the one from the motor I bought was broken. I DID NOT remove the whole assembly that connects to the cam. Now when I go to start my car, just cranks but doesn’t start. I have tried the VVEL position Relearn with my scanner but still no luck. Help would be greatly appreciated!
Can we get a better video of you setting back this timing on the vvel ?
I need this for an Infiniti q50 does the year matter?
Not sure if you’re still active on here… but my car just started to have issues with bank 2 VVEL. Out of no where. I have to disconnect the battery for it to work properly again then maybe 40-50 miles later light comes back on an no throttle response what can it be?
It’s a 2010 Nissan 370z 6 speed never have been into the valve train only regular maintenance
Is the space that's created by slack( after setting vvel arms @1.585) my 5.5 degrees? So, both cams stay flat against heads or both cams get the slight movement into a gapped position?
Props on this!
sup man i’m getting a p1606 and u1003 after a drive for so long they pop up out of no where and the car goes into limp mode. do you think this fix will get rid of this problem? there’s rarely any threads or vids about those codes and when i do find a thread there’s never a answer to the fix this has been hell thanks
Seth is that measurement the same for both sides? Also how have you gotten this measurement? Meaning have you bought a new one and measured the new one then took that measurement and have that for future references?
Thanks a bunch :)
essentially yes, i measured the distance on a sealed low mileage drop out...pulled it up to #1 tdc, then locked the control cams full counter clockwise and made my measurement...it's not a perfect way, but it does seem to work!...i've played with this system back and fourth trying to get the cars to power up on the dyno; seems that if you're off even a degree or two (from the pre determined 5.5 degrees) the sensors are too far off to get it within range and you will get bizarre vvel values....and it runs horrible
@@sethjoyner391 so I did what was shown in the video but still ran into issues, i got good news though. Im working on a fix to be able to get the motor to 5.5 degree's without nissans plastic jig. My sensors are within range with your fix but one side can be at 4 degrees and the other at 7 degrees. total the car has to be at 11 degrees and 5.5 on each side. You could measure both sides but they still might not be 5.5 degrees. My fix is to put a magnetic digital angle finder on the camshaft, zero the gauge and then move it 5.5 degrees :)
ill let you know if it works
@@gary4864 Did it work?
@@tarassymonik7603 yep, plenty of people have done this to fix the issue as well!
@@gary4864 I think you can just print on 3d printer triangle (prism) with one corner 5,5 degree and place on surface wich limits camshaft movement, then turn camshaft to press it to triangle, so you should get exact 5,5 degree. Or you can order such triangle jig made from aluminium.
What kind of codes with this trigger if it was to be done wrong ??? Or would the car even run at all , my cars been throwing camshaft and maf sensor codes both for bank b and going into limp mode . Huge headache here
Is the distance the same on all motors? If so, probably an opportunity for someone to make a tool that'll fit in there easier.
Very true...I'm not sure, but I've done it on quite a few engines at this point...I felt like the factory nissan tool was useless, I also used it as a reference when coming up with this method. It may not be factory perfect; however, I feel like it gets the motor beyond or at its dwell point (which I thinkis the problem with the design), which allows you to get the sensor itself within range...not perfect, but our alternatives are like angle gauges etc
@@sethjoyner391 So i just did my secondary chain-tensioners and my car should run tomorrow, if i didnt do what your saying and just slapped my vvels back, what is the possibility that the vvel will be way out of time? Not looking for any ponies just want to my car running with least effort.
@@braederhow did that work out for you brother?
@@nando4283 it works as he described.
@@braeder did you try the way you were saying, or did you do it Seth’s way?
make a 1.58 shim to set in there and then hold the cam full left and push the motor on the shim and tighten it all down.
God mode comment ^
Awesome! Thanks for this!
Awesome video!! I do have a question, just about if I change my vvel actuator motors only will it affect anything?
Thank you,
Jon
most definitly
What’s up man would you say codes p1606 and u1024 are related to this? I’d appreciate any feed back thanks.
Not typically, were u into the valvetrain?
Great video, thank you.
I have a question, hopefully you can help.
My son has an 09 G37x, with a handful of bolt-on mods and exhaust. Car runs great for the most part, but will get a slight miss at times, like bad gas. 2 days ago it started getting sluggish to start (battery going maybe), then a slight fluttery sounding knock in the right front of the engine. It sounds weird, will speed up when revved, then near cut out when coming down.
Read some posts VVEL related, maybe flashing ECU. Any idea where to start with this ? Planning a new battery first, just in case that could mess with the ECU. Any help would be appreciated.
Same thing happened to a car I'm working on. What was your fix????
@@mikerose8486found a way to fix it I have a slightly knock on my passenger side.
I think you need a more detailed video for lay man. what is locking the camshaft ?
Standard Cresent wrench
I can try and do another one sometime as a pov of the process
Hey Seth, curious question I think I’m having VVEL issues comes and goes, engine runs perfectly fine super quiet It’s a g37 IPL coupe only 12,000 miles on it, but randomly out of nowhere I get this strange noise and then it will go away if I leave it running for a little bit or I’ll shut the car off and restart it and it just disappears ? It literally does it randomly and sometimes it doesn’t happen at all. Motor sounds so smooth so it’s just confusing. Is it a serious issue ? Should I not be driving it ?
sorry for the very late reply...make a video and send it to me if you're still having the issue
What ended up being the issue? My 370z is having this issue. You ever get it figured out?
@@prvtgoaty_yt4738 bro I have been using Amsoil and the noise just completely went away, hasn’t done it since.
Shout out to all the rookie engine builders. (Such as myself) if your lapping your valves for a good seal, don't be like me & not check your valve clearances after ending up with all your exhasut clearances being too tight. Causing glowing red manifolds on your exhaust .
You can do everything right but miss this one crucial step, you will tear it all apart.
Excellent video!
god bless this guy
How to set it back one
We are having a P1093 code after rebuilding the motor
Tomorrow we are going to open up the head and ladder to with on the motor to try and fix this
It's a heavily modified car. If we can't get it to work tomorrow I am willing to bring it to you if it's correct that you are in Maryland. I am outside Philly
Let me know
U only need to get the valve covers off and the rear aluminum covers off that bolt to the control motors...loosen the Allen heads in the back etc, measure, adjust, lock down...go through the regular vvel reset and clocking of the actual sensors
And of course I can always dial it in for you
@@sethjoyner391 I have ecutek but can't figure out how to get the voltage for the sensor. It at 2.4v and 3.2v when at idle
Seems way off
Also the learned is at .39v
Honestly if you have the time. I have the money to pay sometime for help as I can't find anyone that knows anything about this
Let me know and I'll share my info with you directly somehow
Also can't find the reset of the vvel system in ecutek
@@sethjoyner391 found the vvel reset. Now to figure out how to get the mv without a ecutek reporting that back to me
Nissan consult, or u would have to identify and alligator clip (minor wire jacket removal) and u can do it with a multi meter...just seem extremely tedious...
Would I have to do this if I had heads redone …. I got the motor back in the car and it starts and then just dies ….. at first I could keep it up to 1100rpm but now it just won’t stay running
For sure, 99% engine builders don't know this
@@sethjoyner391 we’ll that’s my problem then
@@N8TeK ...and 99% run just fine when this is fixed
And for inquiring minds...this is on only one page in the factory service manual that vaguely references this in regards to "not to do this".lol
@@sethjoyner391 just one last opinion … so I had heads fully rebuilt and then upgraded to cometic gaskets and arp studs …. Upon first fire it would stay running at 1100 rpm only if I kept foot floored to the ground … if I let off of gas it would die …. I then messed with sensors on back of vvel and now car won’t even idle at full throttle ….. finally got codes to pop up p0102, p0301 , p0303, p1092, p1233,,,, car fires and then sounds like a old cammed hotrod for 3 seconds then dies ….. assuming all sensors are hooked up properly and the timing is perfect on the motor …… ur saying 99 percent this is the vvel? … should I try to adjust it or just do a motor swap out of a running vq I just found for 1300$
How do you rotate the actuator itself to 1.58 inches like in your video?
Its more of a pushing or pulling action on the motor shaft
After we tighten the 2 bolts connecting the motor, do I spin the crank off top dead center and procceed to put it back together or does it not matter?
Im sorry for commenting so much but i’ve been dealing with this for almost a year now and its so frustrating
All good...You're going to do the one side first...lock it down....slowly rotate the crank clockwise 120 degrees or so and set the other side, then put back together complete.....then electronic vvel reset etc
@@sethjoyner391 what if I just need to do my bank2 side? Do I just need to put everything back together and not rotate the crank?
@@Stockclipz if ur just doing that one side...might as well leave it in that position for vvel reset, but it wouldn't matter either way
Hi where are you guys located
We're in Maryland
i have a 2015 q50s with under 65K miles. I have started throwing code P1089. Any ideas what to check first? It randomly throws this code and instantly goes into limp mode. I can clear the code and itll run fine. Seems like a bad sensor to me?
any other codes, or just that one?...u have any mods or tuning
@@sethjoyner391 just that one code. No mods or tuning.
My first thoughts are a couple short interval oil changes and some hard driving (to exclude vvel solenoid malfunction?) Replacement of vvel relay or inspection of terminal contact
@@sethjoyner391 well. I changed the oil. It didn’t come back on for about a week. Then It came on one day randomly. So i think the actual solenoid is fine. Because when it runs good, it runs perfect. Then it will throw this code randomly, and I’ll clear it right away and it’ll be back to normal. So my guess is the sensor.
Is the sensor the same for both sides? Do you know the part #? I’m thinking about buying a used one, just to try it out and see if it fixes it.
Seth, I'm having issues getting my 2011 to start after replacing the timing chains. I've followed all instructions and initially it ran like a sewing machine for about 30 seconds and the RPM's went up and down like a wave 3 times and shut off. Haven't been able to start it since. Fuel pressure was at about 50psi when attempting to start and compression was at 115 and 110 on the first pop. I'm at a loss here. Any help would be great
Did u reset the vvel sensors themselves follow the fsm procedure with ecutek or consult?
I might have misread that.lol...sorry...what components in the case did you replace and why were you in there.
Seth, I'll look into resetting the vvel sensors. I was in there because car cut off on me without warning. Had car scanned and the cam sensors cam up. Read forums and car started with bank 1 cam sensor pulled and ran in limp mode, but like garbage. Read some more and some other guys had it brought to a dealer and confirmed timing was off, so I pulled it all apart and bank 2 was off a tooth. Installed new chains and tensioners as well as cam and crank sensors. Fuel pressure is good and compression. However, those pricey cam actuator sprockets I did not replace. Could those get messed up?
@@kilroy6716 ok, so, sometimes that encoder wheel that the cam sensor uses as the mag pickup for cam timing can shift, or move...it looks like it's a one piece intake sprocket visually; but obviously we know its multiple pieces (this is what advances or retards the centerline of the primary intake camshaft at varying rpms....that encoder wheel on older cars will actually slip and twist inside the sprocket and can be off be varying degrees of distance making a no start condition from the encoder not being synchronized as it passes by the cam sensor) Clark@JWT told me to his knowledge these sprockets have been revised 4 times for this issue...there is also a "rebuild procedure online to reclock the encoder wheel on the sprocket)
@@sethjoyner391 ok this information helps quite a bit. Sounds like this might very well be the problem. No engine codes either so it's been a struggle trying to troubleshoot all this and I am by no means a mechanic. But I can read and have help from my buddy at his shop so we'll look into this tomorrow and I'll keep you posted. I do appreciate the response and the information very much!
Hi I have a question if you’re still active on this channel
Fire away
@@sethjoyner391 thank you! Stock 2010 g37 engine code p1089 keeps coming back after driving fine but udling kinda rough. I replaced the vvel computer which was the problem I think because it fixed it but where I messed up was I took the passenger side sensor out and replaced it with a 40k mile q50 it seemed fine at first drove about 200 miles but light came back on and limp mode again. Still safe thing
@@sethjoyner391 also, at some rotation points the car literally throws a p0300 and p1089 code after start up and idles really bad. At the moment I just guessed and tried to align it as close to the lines as possible so it drives ok but still idles bad and codes comes back but takes longer
@Ahmadzeee I think u answered your question...if u didn't go through the sensor reset procedure; it will definitely not work right...it has to be "dialed in" via voltage and a relay procedure
@Ahmadzeee I dunno if u saw this video yet th-cam.com/video/-6yo1MAVXqM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0LU5UpgE43Nar1ug
Wish you were close tyo NYC i need my 2010 FX35 engine rebuilt!
Honestly, probably better off finding a wrecked but running or an engine from a quality salvage yard...the motors I do are all forged internals and all brand new components...thousands Basically...and a factory rebuild is similarly expensive as far as time and factory parts...money ahead to find a lower mileage drop out
So I'm following your lead and after the car is warmed up, after pushing idle to 4k rpm, as the engine comes down bank 2 vvel p1093, p1092 and limp mode.
I'll check em when I go to work
@@sethjoyner391 I just hooked up a computer last night to the ecu and it looks like the sensors were way out of voltage spec by almost 75 percent. Will tighten everything up today and take it for a test drive. Also what is standard cam degree at idle? Right now im at around 7 degrees at idle for each bank. Thanks, you have poise and brains when talking through 370 motor!
@@sethjoyner391 bad connector for the vvel 1093. Explains the intermittent good idle to bad.
P1090 re built my motor. Followed this while putting my vvl actualtors back in and bank 1 still mis firing..
What should i do???shes is in limp mode.
What procedure did u use to reset the vvel motors and set the sensors?
@sethjoyner391 didn't reset the vvl also we aligned the sensor with a mark that was there from where the sensor use to set. Probly should rest and double check the sensors. How do I reset it? Is there a video link you can send me?? I have a very nice scan tool so I can hopfully use it to read live data. I apperciate you getting back to me I didn't expect that lol
@brandenlaferrara9503 ahhhh....yea, I think ur still good....look for the video on my channel about the sensor reset procedure...this is the final process...I use ecutek, it can be done with nissan consult etc
Yea, u gotta have live data, for sure, this process involves key on/off procedures, disconnecting harness and removing a relay essentially
I will keep you up to date. Going to thus weekend I seen that video btw thank you so much dude seriously.. this shit is better then Facebook discussions page 🤣🤣🤣
Would an issue with the vvel cause a no start condition?
@thatsubae not imo...I think it would probably be more related to a crank sensor or the dreaded bank 1 intake sprocket encoder slippage (mechanical failure) wherein the bank 1 intake cam sensor can't identify the reference point for the mag pickup.
@@sethjoyner391 gotcha i have a car on my side jobs. I identified the timing off, corrected the timing with new chain and tensioner, put everything together and still wont start, will start if I unplug the cam sensor
@@thatsubae yup....dooo it
@@sethjoyner391 hey so it did ended up being the Cam sprocket on bank 1. I redid a cam crank correlation on the scope, and it was off on where the cam sensor reads it. Italled a new one and it started up. Thanks for the pointer!
@thatsubae no problem brother; much easier to speak with talented mechanics🤗
hey Seth, what was the symptoms when a vvel fail, missed timing alighment ?
Mostly this is a procedure for r&i on motor builds, cam changes etc...however if u have a stepper motor malfunction u can hear grinding or metal on metal contact with the worm drive assembly..it will be audible at the motor...also u can have excessive valvetrain rattle on that bank, misfire etc..the sound will be isolated to the intake cam and sprocket area...along with correlating dtc's etc
I have done a 2009 G37, timing chain, second chain, sprockets. and now the codes came back on with p0011at first, then I hit the gas, shows up p0021
When I changed the sprocket, the old sprocket was off a tiny degree compared to the new one (the cam sensor signal on the sprocket)
It runs good at Idle but It won't rev up 2500rpm. I wished I wouldve waited for the Galley gasket. I told the customer since begining but somehow he don't have any parts but the timing kit, then the sprockets came in and I just want to finish (what a dump of me), reason I did that because I saw a video saidd VQ37 doesn't have a failed galley issue, I inspected the gasket, and the sprockets made me think that I caught it.
@@lucasvaughn9423 did u accidentally swap your vtc solenoids harnesses? Those are the codes u can get, swap the harnesses back
@@sethjoyner391 The harnesss seems to be corrected.
*update: I removed the timing chain once again and replaced the gallery gasket ( dealer part) , put it back together, running good at idle, won't rev up 3500rpm, p0011 came back, alternator has'nt been charging because someone changed it twice with new plug and wired.
@lucasvaughn9423 u checked the bank 1 vtc covers triple dynamic seals and vtc solenoid is actuating? U also changed the intake sprockets to new factory units? Common causes on that year are sprocket failure (encoder slips)..also have you confirmed oil pressure on a manual gauge?
I have a code p1093, any way i can fix that code?
I'm having timing problems on a QX56 and I suspect that this system has collapsed thus retarding the time on bank 1. When changing the chain and guides, if the intake VVT actuators are rotated which can be moved by hand, will the calibration be off if this somehow be disturbed? I don't know what else would make the time retarded but I can see that the camshaft moves back and forth as the phaser is rotated.
sorry for the late reply....if you just moved the control shaft back and forth but never loosened it....however, u may need to reset the vvel system to relearn
Did you ever get this fixed? And was this a VK56VD or DE engine? I'm having something similar to this on my m56 and after changing my timing chains, it's not starting.
@@Broke2FastGarage I believe it was a VK, we sent it to the dealer and they supposedly slapped a new timing actuator solenoid, though I had changed those recently. I believe that all they did was reset the learned values but I could be wrong. The car not starting is a different issue for you. For the timing to be right, just install the sprockets (they have guides on the cam) and then route it with the chain marks.
Yeh!!! Thank you.
subscribed
Locking this video innnn
5462 Hamill Loaf
Hey my car has a p1090 code anyone with their two cents on fixing it ?
Do you have any modifications or recent service? Anything in the top end?
Cars stock but i had the engine rebuilt and ever since then the code p1090 pops up
Its in limp mode and i narrowed it down to the left hand side vvel system
@@clooperdooper391 bet they didn't do my procedure to degree the control cam in sync with the vvel...almost no one knows about this...u need to pull the intake manifold, valve cover, rear aluminum cam cover etc and measure it like I did...almost 100% the control cam is degree'd incorrectly...these vvel motors rarely seem to go bad...most engine builders don't know this unless they specifically build nissan
@@sethjoyner391 damn man how much you think this gonna run me approximately?
Key word , " Slop"