Aside from your TH-cam income, I think the advertising value of your Blacktail Studio videos far out ways any "secret techniques" lost to your competition. And people looking for $10,000 tables are not shopping by price, so your reputation is paramount. The videos show your integrity.
"Seal the top", is hands down the best tip. I've had 3 people in the last week ask me "do you know about Blacktail Studio?" Sadly, I had not... but now I do and I'm now I'm a fan. I decided that woodworking is my retirement hobby, and having a blast. Loving what you're doing, so helpful to skip some bumps in the road, thank you! And... we're neighbors, Go Beavs '84 and Go SW Portland! Well done and thank you again.
Cam, I am a beginner woodworker and I've been watching your various videos for the better part of a year. I have picked up most of your rules from them but it is great to have them all in one spot. Thank you! You have inspired me and I'm ready to start on my first round coffee table project. Thanks for everything. You rock!
Hey! Me too! I've built a dozen or so nice pieces of furniture but have yet to get into resin tables. I'm also gearing up to do my first project - likely a round coffee table. I've got my home office desk too. Did you make yours yet? How did it come out?
I follow you and you make some great tables, I am going to start my first coffee table and learned a lot watching this video. I would have never thought of sealed the top after the pour was over waiting the 2-3 weeks to pull out of the mold, you also touched on other processes I wouldn’t have thought of. Thank you for this video, it will help with my first table
It will be easy to tell who didn't watch till the end when their table looks more like a surf board. Lot's of really great tips there. Thanks Cam, you rock!
Your last rule, sealing the top, was the only one that I hadn't yet learned from you. Thank you! I'm inching closer to building one of these to add to my table offerings, and it's because of your channel.
Vinyl contact paper (self adhesive shelf liner) works great as a mold release. Works especially well for covering forms with flat bottoms/sides. Much faster to apply than packing tape, and pretty cheap too.
Keep a fan going for at least 18-24 hours or until the temp of the epoxy starts dropping. Thanks a ton for all of this knowledge. I actually poured my first desk top yesterday. Because I have been tuning in to you for a while, I have followed all of these suggestions. Thanks again....this reassures I should have a successful pour!
Masters never think they know everything ... that is one reason you are one. Great teacher. Information is valuable. I've made small live edge epoxy box lids and filled in knots and wood life wrinkles with epoxy but never tried a table. You make me want to try!
I am just about finished with my very first big, deep pour epoxy resin table. I made several of the mistakes that you mentioned in this video. This has been an incredible learning process. I poured my epoxy about 2 1/2 inches thick and the table heated up quite a bit. I immediately ran and grabbed two fans and blew them across the top of the table for 24 hours. When I flattened the table, it became thinner than I had liked, and I used the trick that you showed in the episode, "Use Half the Epoxy In Your Table Project". That was a table saver! I am at the finishing process now. I am very happy how the table has turned out so far, and I have learned a lot through this process. I just want to let you know I appreciate you and your craft! I really appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with those of us, who do not have the experience in pouring deep resin tables. I am going to continue to make resin tables. I hope that the process becomes easier for me as I learn more and more. Thank you very much! Tim. PS, I wish I could send you a picture of my final product when I'm done. I would be interested to get your opinion.
I learned about Concept 13 from one of your other videos. Just ordered the diy epoxy tray kit to get started. 12" x 24" HDPE (high density poly-ethylene) exotherm vac tray with a 1 degree angle on the sides. they also have trays that are welded edges that have a 5 degree angle. Super excited to get started with some small scale projects.
Sealing the wood is the best rule I can and will remember when I start making these. I'm just about ready. Have been stocking up on wood to make sure it's dry when I get to working with it.
I just found you! I cut a couple of fir's from my yard, about 90 years old. I used a chain saw mill to create some live edge slabs, which are drying in my garage. While it will be a few months before I can do anything with them, I do want to do try some live edge epoxy. I believe you saved me a lot of time.
Fan rule is something I never thought of, I wait till fall or winter before I pour , I appreciate it and i didn’t know that I should seal the top of the table, I learned so much just from this video, thank you sir
Just an idea I have been playing with to do one of these for my self. Appreciate all the words of wisdom. Not sure I have a fav tip but I do appreciate how this mat just be possible for me
Hey Cam, I'm a couple weeks late on seeing this video so idk if you'll see this, but would you be willing to purposefully screw up some test tables to show examples of some of these errors? Like the bleeding pigment or not sealing the top or even wet wood? I would love some visual examples! Thanks for the tips.
Cam Clay Burnett from FL. Semi-retired cardiac surgeon and life/ long woodworker. Been doing epoxy stuff for a few years, but it’s still the most humbling thing I’ve done. Rule # 1 I recently violated and my table is a bit bowed across the narrow part and to level and smooth the slab I may not have enough thickness left. Birthday present for my bride, so violating Rule #1 is NO BUENO!! I really enjoy you work and videos. And your pathway to this second career is pretty cool, too, and no probably a lot safer since helicopters are an invention always trying to crash. Great video here and I’ll pass it along!
Mixing properly. Thanks for the heads up on the other tips. I do seal my edges because I had two tables that back to back had edge bubbles. Since I started sealing I haven’t had any bubbles and never had stress failures. Great tip on sealing the top surface. I haven’t had any issues, but I can see how it could.
Thank you so much for the information and tips. This video helps a lot to me, i am a resin artist just doing wedding garlands preservation and some small projects.my motto is development and upgrade is the key of a successful business so, i wanted to improve myself with resin furniture in my state there is no one who knows this work and this type furniture hope it will be success ill invite you if it is a hit. the reason i love epoxy is efforts and time pays you back. thank you so much brother
Thanks for another great video, Cam! While I found all of the rules very informative, I appreciated the rule on leaving your slab thick and then surface it after to thickness.
Hi Cam, I've been following now for over a yr, love your honesty in the mistakes you have made over the many tables you have made. I'm taking the plunge and going to make a epoxy table. Based in Dublin Ireland, have found a slab of walnut, slight over size for what I need. Is weather a factor in the curing process. I'm looking at Nov /Dec to start. In Dublin the weather could drop to 7/8 degrees Celsius (46f). Thanks in advance.👍
Hey Cam, you're really good guy, because You are sharing your knowledge. All your projects are amazing. It's a nice gesture of you to put the measurements in metric
Wonderful. I've watched all of your content I think and I'll be signing up for the online training content at some point. Gearing up to try my hand with what I've gathered so far which (to me) will make the class content resonate that much more because I've been through it at least once on a small scale. My favorite tip was your iteration on sealing the edges. Using the deep pour epoxy on the edges and waiting until it's tacky and not outright dry to get a chemical bond (much stronger than mechanical) is true wisdom. QUESTION: Does a dehumidifier in the space do anything for me? Basement shop isn't particularly damp but it's usually around 50%. Wondering if having the air really dry helps at all. QUESTION: I keep hearing the epoxy shrinks a little bit. I hear your tip about leaving a little loose on the live edges so the epoxy doesn't pour itself away. Is that the solution? Or do I not worry about under-pouring because I can always do a top layer? Or do I overpour just a touch and let the surface tension of the epoxy keeping it from running over because I know I'm going to surface it after? QUESTION: If I'm just getting started without a youtube channel, I have zero idea how to generate my first clients. I suppose I could make some gratis for people I know would have a lot of "disposable income foot traffic" in their house. How did you get the business part rolling?
Greetings! Unfortunately I can't name a "favorite" epoxy rule because I'm a rookie and I find them all interesting and helpful. That being said, I still have a question if I may. Yes, I know this will sound elementary but, again, I'm a rookie. My question is, when you pour your epoxy, how deep, in relation to the wood, do you pour it? In other words, do you flood the surface of the wood and sacrifice the feel of the wood, or do you leave the wood surface a bit proud of the epoxy and then bring the wood surface and epoxy surface to the same level with the planer? Thank you in advance for your attention and your response. Cheers, Gary
I dig the, seal the top of the slab before pouring rule. I’m working on my first epoxy table right now. I’ve watched most of your stuff, I must have done something wrong when making the router sled, do you have any videos for planning, milling, or surfacing down this table at home? We love your stuff and your insight by the way!!
Can, very new to epoxy and definitely yours awesome videos inspired me to start my first river table( a very small dimensions to start with), my question is about finishing, what should come first? A wood finish like danish oil and then ceramic polish ? Please help me what should be the sequence to get that glass like finish? Thanks in advance❤
Great video, the tips were also great. "Not scraping the bucket" is probably my favorite tip because I would be the guy to be just a scraping that bucket to make sure I got every last drop of that liquid gold into my project Doing my first pour tomorrow. Thanks for all the professional advice you have to offer. Oh and I liked and subscribe to your channel.
Hi Cam, thanks for all of the brilliant videos. You inspired me to embark on my first river table. I have a walnut slab which has been (poorly) flattened to around 65mm thick +/- 10mm. My question is - should I flatten before the cut and epoxy pour or do the whole thing after? Your video suggests keeping it at full thickness as long as possible so I'm guessing I should go for: 1. Clean up, 2. Cut, 3. Pour, 4. Flatten. Thanks in advance! Paul
My favorite rule is to measure the moisture of the wood/make sure it’s dry, because of that collab table. That table looked SOOO badass, with such a badass piece of wood, and so much work, I wanted to cry, hahaha! You gotta do another collab with another giant cookie!
I’m gonna say the mix well and the last tip. I love wood work. But I’m horrible at playing the patient game. This Chanel is teaching many of us that to have great looking pieces of wood you need patience. Cam, I have a question. How many projects do you take at one time? Do you have a drying ware house or just your garage ?
Great video. Thanks for the tip on sealing the top of the slab with Poly. Question. Built my own mold. Caulked it, used the sealer. Poured the epoxy and some leaked on one end. Obviously not sealed well enough. I caulked it again along that edge. However, I have lost about 1 inch of epoxy. So can I mix again and pour over the top of the other 1.5 inches? I poured yesterday at 4:30pm so its almost been 24 hours. Should I wait longer or can I pour another coat of epoxy over the top? Last question, do I need to match to the exact color with the die? Or if I get close to the same color, will the new pour mix with the existing epoxy and blend? My concern is the first pour is one color and its been sitting for 24 hours. If I mix and pour another layer, I am just adding to the top or will it blend?
Thank you for all the helpful tip I have been using epoxy on my Cornhole boards for a little over 5 years now. My customers love the finish on them and I love the look. I'm looking at doing my first table after the new year as this is a hobby of mine. I have saved this video so I can go back over when I start the project again thank you for the info. Have a great day
Awesome tips. Thank you. I just did my first epoxy project, and I learned a lot of lessons. The major one was patience. So, for me, the tip would be to wait serval days before trying to sand and finish your project. I had a lot of buildup on sandpaper, and it would swirl back on the surface of the epoxy making deeper scritches. When I did my project, I bought some HDPE sheets and made the mold using caulk to glue them all together. But my pour was only 1” thick. May have to use some clamps for bigger project. And it worked well. I did not use mold release, but I will in the future. The epoxy did come off with no trouble though. And I will be able to reuse it for my next project. Your work is inspiring, and I can’t wait to see your next project.
that was an super video and perfect timing ! Im doimg my first really big table and had so many questions. Cant really pick one as the best, but sealing the top while the pour is curing and curing for a couple weeks are right up there! Myname is Brian...this is on my wife's computer.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful. You mentioned sealing the edges, and later you said to seal the top. Can I do both with shellac? If not do both with the same liquid glass epoxy? Or should I seal the edges with epoxy and the top with epoxy?
Your rule to mix like a DJ who lives at home…. Where else would they live? Haha A lot of good info. Thank you for sharing. Looking to do a small project soon for my wife. She wants a walnut slab desk with gold accents. Kind of like your “Toughest client yet” video. Would you suggest a gold epoxy pour using a powder for color or suggest using the brass stuff you used? This will be my first project using either. Figured I’d ask you to see what your thoughts were. Especially since you seem to respond to the majority of your viewer’s comments. Thanks again for your time and content.
I've been watching your videos and doing research for the past 5 to 6 weeks. I'm about to attempt my first river coffee table. I have several questions: 1) What is the ideal moisture content of wood? 2) What is an acceptable moisture content? 3) My slab has numerous worm holes. how do I fill them with epoxy if I coat the surface with shellac? 4) You reference the use of chemicals to address bugs in the wood. What chemicals should I use? 5) The slab is only 1.7" thick. Can I add 1/4" plywood to the bottom to add thickness to the table? (I plan to have the entire perimeter epoxy so the plywood would not be visible from the side) 6) Would you recommend I create a mold that would allow the epoxy to run beneath the wood slab to increase thickness to 2"? Thanks in advance for taking the time to review and respond. Regards, Jeff
Sealing edges with same product great idea. Question: I’m pouring large cracks in a 3”x40” red oak cookie. If I’m adding copper bow ties also should I inlay them before or after the epoxy process? I’m thinking after, don’t want to worry about needing to machine them down. If they were wood would you inlay them before the pour? Thanks
I am not an epoxy expert but I think from a chemical standpoint sealing your edges should be fine. Epoxy has good adhesive and cohesive properties, so it sticks to wood and itself just as well.
Great video. Worked with epoxy almost 50 years ago making parts from airplane to chemical vat covers. I learned that a chemical bond is much better than a mechanical bond. Its funny how it has not changed that much. Still a very unstable product. Meaning once it goes there is no turning back. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
"Sealing the top part of the wood with with PU, or shelak or epoxy" thank you for your tips as someone who's doing research before making my first table, and hopefully a sellable and nice one, it's priceless for me! Which epoxy you used before liquid glass with which you were satisfied with? Thank you, with you good health and luck!
Seal the top of a project after pouring. Hi Cam! Thanks for this more in depth channel. Bought your epoxy workshop series recently to prepare for eventually making some. Question:. What chemicals will kill bugs in wood? I have a 30" sawmill and my goal is to make a solar kiln and use local wood that I have milled on projects but I'm not there yet
Thank you for everything! Thanks to you I am building my own table at the moment. I am waiting for the second layer to cure. Does the second layer have to be completely hard until I can put on the second layer? Thank you!
Thank you so much for your teaching. I do have a question for you if you have time to answer. I just poured two crate tops and used liquid glass deep pour. Should I use another product to apply a flood coat? Or can I flood coat it with deep pour as well? I've searched for written answers to this question, but found nothing. I do appreciate your time, thank you.
21:59 min. Make sure the wood is dry. Now, how dry does your wood need to be? Also, I’m assuming that you are sealing before your pour. I’ve heard that you should do to the bottom whatever you do to the top to try to keep it from warping? I’m a rookie but plan on making a counter top for my wife so I have to ask all these crazy questions. I think you’ve got an awsome thing going there. I love watching your shows Thanks Steve
"Sealing the slabs and leave the curing process for a month" - Essential tips! I have thoroughly enjoyed watching your videos. I have not, (Or simply can't remember), seen how much collateral damage occurs with these projects. Do you throw away the buckets etc? How do you dispose of excess epoxy, (Especially when dealing with leaks), and basically the clean up process in addition to if/when there are are any issues. May seem like a boring question but would be fascinated to get some perspective from a pro ;)
I'm a relatively new epoxy table guy so consequently have a dumb question (yes, there is such a thing). I've started the process of flattening and sculpting the river edges with a 2" piece of Elm. After flattening, the slab was still cupping even though it was around 12 percent dry, so I clamped it flat. Wanting to keep it flat I then sealed it with linseed oil thinking I would be plaining it again and removing the oil. Am I going to have a problem with the epoxy adhering to the wood where I don't remove all the linseed oil? BTW your video is beyond excellent!
Hi Cam, all of my local suppliers are offering wood boards and slabs only 5cm( 2") of thickness, and I was wondering is there any workarround to make my tables thicker, is gluing two slabs or boards together cause the top to bend or twist or even separate, and how much it will affect the aestetic of the whole end product? Or am I just suposed to make smaller coffe tables because of this issue? Love the channel, keep it up!
Patience! You didn’t specifically say the word but I got the message clear enough. Take the time to allow proper curing and mixing. Thus avoiding disappointment and more work. I would vote yes please to more of these types of videos. I am stoked to get going on my own tables and have really benefitted and enjoyed your site. Congrats on the “official you tuber status. Well deserved in my humble opinion.
Debark. It's funny that you had to say this however I just had to explain this this past week to a customer. Question: how does liquid glass stack up against eco-poxy? Are they both relatively bubble-free? Thanks, and thanks for another great video
The tip about leaving the piece for around 3 weeks before removing. I’m like you and don’t tend to read instructions very carefully, if at all. I will now! Question for you: what size was your very first epoxy table and was it for a client or yourself? Curious if you started selling right away or doing projects for family?
Long time subscriber from Iceland! Just wanted to thank you for all the information youve put out there. Im about to pour my second river table this week and thanks to you my first one was not a disaster and came out pretty decent. 👍🏼
Bucket mixing rule . Do u use the same bucket with previous mix to make a 2nd batch? Also my client wants a epoxy gloss finish should I just pour 1/4 inch above the wood then plane down or just come back after planing and do a flood coat
Hello from Greece and congrats on your work . Around at 19 minute of this u r talking about brands of epoxy . I understand that U.S. is top in epoxy products . Could u please make a review on brands that are in Europe ( preferably Greece but thats way more than the already a lot i am asking ) . The reason is i think u mentioned in other videos that a lot of your subscibers are from Europe and imagine us trying to buy the 'good' stuff from U.S. . The cost is ridiculous. No matter what u do thank u for your vids
Seal the top. Great tips. I'm wondering about cleanup. Do you clean your buckets with something before they harden? Or just use new buckets each time? What about the mixing paddle for the drill? Thanks.
Seal the top of the wood slabs with something. Thank you for the new channel and video. Is there a temperature too cold to do epoxy pours? I live in Michigan, with an uninsulated garage where I do my woodworking. I have a log workbench that developed a large crack as it dried (ok, really, two workbenches). They're deep voids on the side. I was trying to fill them with wood glue, but now that I've seen this and have a better understanding of deep pour. Since it's winter, I wonder if I can pour more than 4 inches with a fan blowing on it?
Aside from your TH-cam income, I think the advertising value of your Blacktail Studio videos far out ways any "secret techniques" lost to your competition. And people looking for $10,000 tables are not shopping by price, so your reputation is paramount. The videos show your integrity.
Weighs*
"Seal the top", is hands down the best tip. I've had 3 people in the last week ask me "do you know about Blacktail Studio?" Sadly, I had not... but now I do and I'm now I'm a fan. I decided that woodworking is my retirement hobby, and having a blast. Loving what you're doing, so helpful to skip some bumps in the road, thank you! And... we're neighbors, Go Beavs '84 and Go SW Portland! Well done and thank you again.
Cam, I am a beginner woodworker and I've been watching your various videos for the better part of a year. I have picked up most of your rules from them but it is great to have them all in one spot. Thank you! You have inspired me and I'm ready to start on my first round coffee table project. Thanks for everything. You rock!
Thanks man!
Hey! Me too! I've built a dozen or so nice pieces of furniture but have yet to get into resin tables. I'm also gearing up to do my first project - likely a round coffee table. I've got my home office desk too. Did you make yours yet? How did it come out?
the surface tension explanation for excusing the use of fans is what made this video for me, I was sold instantly! Thanks again Cam!
Ya man!
A true Gentleman sharing hints and tips to save people thousands well done sir.
Love howvyou saved the best tip for the end
I follow you and you make some great tables, I am going to start my first coffee table and learned a lot watching this video. I would have never thought of sealed the top after the pour was over waiting the 2-3 weeks to pull out of the mold, you also touched on other processes I wouldn’t have thought of. Thank you for this video, it will help with my first table
It will be easy to tell who didn't watch till the end when their table looks more like a surf board. Lot's of really great tips there. Thanks Cam, you rock!
Your last rule, sealing the top, was the only one that I hadn't yet learned from you. Thank you!
I'm inching closer to building one of these to add to my table offerings, and it's because of your channel.
Vinyl contact paper (self adhesive shelf liner) works great as a mold release. Works especially well for covering forms with flat bottoms/sides. Much faster to apply than packing tape, and pretty cheap too.
I really like this channel... It's the education portion we DIYers or aspiring wood table makers try to get from watching a ton of vids all in one.
Thanks for doing this, Cam! I love your work, your attitude, and your humor.
I think sealing the top was probably the one I didn’t realize the importance of doing. Thanks for the great tips!
leave it thick! loved it. The more wood I work on the more valuable this whole clip is. Thanks
Keep a fan going for at least 18-24 hours or until the temp of the epoxy starts dropping. Thanks a ton for all of this knowledge. I actually poured my first desk top yesterday. Because I have been tuning in to you for a while, I have followed all of these suggestions. Thanks again....this reassures I should have a successful pour!
Liked your last rule best seal the top. I always watch to the end. Giving the temperature rang that is too hight was good insight.
Masters never think they know everything ... that is one reason you are one. Great teacher. Information is valuable. I've made small live edge epoxy box lids and filled in knots and wood life wrinkles with epoxy but never tried a table. You make me want to try!
I am just about finished with my very first big, deep pour epoxy resin table. I made several of the mistakes that you mentioned in this video. This has been an incredible learning process. I poured my epoxy about 2 1/2 inches thick and the table heated up quite a bit. I immediately ran and grabbed two fans and blew them across the top of the table for 24 hours. When I flattened the table, it became thinner than I had liked, and I used the trick that you showed in the episode, "Use Half the Epoxy In Your Table Project". That was a table saver! I am at the finishing process now. I am very happy how the table has turned out so far, and I have learned a lot through this process. I just want to let you know I appreciate you and your craft! I really appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with those of us, who do not have the experience in pouring deep resin tables. I am going to continue to make resin tables. I hope that the process becomes easier for me as I learn more and more. Thank you very much! Tim. PS, I wish I could send you a picture of my final product when I'm done. I would be interested to get your opinion.
Getting ready for my first pour. Thank you for all your hard work and information. Sealing all the edges and the Sealing of the top.
I learned about Concept 13 from one of your other videos. Just ordered the diy epoxy tray kit to get started. 12" x 24" HDPE (high density poly-ethylene) exotherm vac tray with a 1 degree angle on the sides. they also have trays that are welded edges that have a 5 degree angle. Super excited to get started with some small scale projects.
Concept13 is down the street from my shop. They are awesome.
Sealing the wood is the best rule I can and will remember when I start making these. I'm just about ready. Have been stocking up on wood to make sure it's dry when I get to working with it.
I just found you! I cut a couple of fir's from my yard, about 90 years old. I used a chain saw mill to create some live edge slabs, which are drying in my garage. While it will be a few months before I can do anything with them, I do want to do try some live edge epoxy. I believe you saved me a lot of time.
Cam, your humbleness is awesome❤
I love the fan usage and the mixing advice. Thank you.
Fan rule is something I never thought of, I wait till fall or winter before I pour , I appreciate it and i didn’t know that I should seal the top of the table, I learned so much just from this video, thank you sir
Just an idea I have been playing with to do one of these for my self. Appreciate all the words of wisdom.
Not sure I have a fav tip but I do appreciate how this mat just be possible for me
A really clever and smart guy. All the best to you Cam. Cheers! My take home points are edge sealing and not scraping the mixing bucket.
Hey Cam, I'm a couple weeks late on seeing this video so idk if you'll see this, but would you be willing to purposefully screw up some test tables to show examples of some of these errors? Like the bleeding pigment or not sealing the top or even wet wood? I would love some visual examples! Thanks for the tips.
Cam Clay Burnett from FL. Semi-retired cardiac surgeon and life/ long woodworker. Been doing epoxy stuff for a few years, but it’s still the most humbling thing I’ve done. Rule # 1 I recently violated and my table is a bit bowed across the narrow part and to level and smooth the slab I may not have enough thickness left. Birthday present for my bride, so violating Rule #1 is NO BUENO!! I really enjoy you work and videos. And your pathway to this second career is pretty cool, too, and no probably a lot safer since helicopters are an invention always trying to crash.
Great video here and I’ll pass it along!
I always wondered how many surgeons were also woodworkers. I would think that surgeons and musicians would be the safest woodworkers.
Thank you for sharing can't wait to see how bad I screw up my first small coffee table.
Mixing properly. Thanks for the heads up on the other tips. I do seal my edges because I had two tables that back to back had edge bubbles. Since I started sealing I haven’t had any bubbles and never had stress failures. Great tip on sealing the top surface. I haven’t had any issues, but I can see how it could.
the last two tips were the ones I liked the best. mixing and not scraping the bucket.. and sealing the top of the table while it's curing.
Thank you so much for the information and tips. This video helps a lot to me, i am a resin artist just doing wedding garlands preservation and some small projects.my motto is development and upgrade is the key of a successful business so, i wanted to improve myself with resin furniture in my state there is no one who knows this work and this type furniture hope it will be success ill invite you if it is a hit. the reason i love epoxy is efforts and time pays you back. thank you so much brother
Thanks for all the helpful info. Removing the bark is a great tip. I thought about leaving it on. Now I won't. Great job!
Never thought about sealing the top to prevent warping, thanks.
Awesome info. I have a window unit that I drop the temperature down to about 60 in the room on a big pour. I think that’s just as good as a fan.
Thanks for another great video, Cam! While I found all of the rules very informative, I appreciated the rule on leaving your slab thick and then surface it after to thickness.
Hi Cam, I've been following now for over a yr, love your honesty in the mistakes you have made over the many tables you have made. I'm taking the plunge and going to make a epoxy table. Based in Dublin Ireland, have found a slab of walnut, slight over size for what I need. Is weather a factor in the curing process. I'm looking at Nov /Dec to start. In Dublin the weather could drop to 7/8 degrees Celsius (46f). Thanks in advance.👍
Hey Cam, you're really good guy, because You are sharing your knowledge. All your projects are amazing. It's a nice gesture of you to put the measurements in metric
Wonderful. I've watched all of your content I think and I'll be signing up for the online training content at some point. Gearing up to try my hand with what I've gathered so far which (to me) will make the class content resonate that much more because I've been through it at least once on a small scale.
My favorite tip was your iteration on sealing the edges. Using the deep pour epoxy on the edges and waiting until it's tacky and not outright dry to get a chemical bond (much stronger than mechanical) is true wisdom.
QUESTION: Does a dehumidifier in the space do anything for me? Basement shop isn't particularly damp but it's usually around 50%. Wondering if having the air really dry helps at all.
QUESTION: I keep hearing the epoxy shrinks a little bit. I hear your tip about leaving a little loose on the live edges so the epoxy doesn't pour itself away. Is that the solution? Or do I not worry about under-pouring because I can always do a top layer? Or do I overpour just a touch and let the surface tension of the epoxy keeping it from running over because I know I'm going to surface it after?
QUESTION: If I'm just getting started without a youtube channel, I have zero idea how to generate my first clients. I suppose I could make some gratis for people I know would have a lot of "disposable income foot traffic" in their house. How did you get the business part rolling?
Greetings! Unfortunately I can't name a "favorite" epoxy rule because I'm a rookie and I find them all interesting and helpful. That being said, I still have a question if I may. Yes, I know this will sound elementary but, again, I'm a rookie. My question is, when you pour your epoxy, how deep, in relation to the wood, do you pour it? In other words, do you flood the surface of the wood and sacrifice the feel of the wood, or do you leave the wood surface a bit proud of the epoxy and then bring the wood surface and epoxy surface to the same level with the planer? Thank you in advance for your attention and your response. Cheers, Gary
More awesome content. Thanks for all the experience shared with viewers.
I dig the, seal the top of the slab before pouring rule. I’m working on my first epoxy table right now. I’ve watched most of your stuff, I must have done something wrong when making the router sled, do you have any videos for planning, milling, or surfacing down this table at home? We love your stuff and your insight by the way!!
Can, very new to epoxy and definitely yours awesome videos inspired me to start my first river table( a very small dimensions to start with), my question is about finishing, what should come first? A wood finish like danish oil and then ceramic polish ?
Please help me what should be the sequence to get that glass like finish?
Thanks in advance❤
Again, so thoughful and well presented. A true keep for future use.
Great video, the tips were also great. "Not scraping the bucket" is probably my favorite tip because I would be the guy to be just a scraping that bucket to make sure I got every last drop of that liquid gold into my project Doing my first pour tomorrow. Thanks for all the professional advice you have to offer. Oh and I liked and subscribe to your channel.
how long can you wait between sealing pour and deep pour> Great Video. You have me tied in, Thanks
The best rule/tip was using the fans…. Never thought of that ::)))) I love your knowledge of the theory. Thanks so much!
Hi Cam, thanks for all of the brilliant videos. You inspired me to embark on my first river table. I have a walnut slab which has been (poorly) flattened to around 65mm thick +/- 10mm.
My question is - should I flatten before the cut and epoxy pour or do the whole thing after? Your video suggests keeping it at full thickness as long as possible so I'm guessing I should go for: 1. Clean up, 2. Cut, 3. Pour, 4. Flatten.
Thanks in advance!
Paul
My favorite rule is to measure the moisture of the wood/make sure it’s dry, because of that collab table. That table looked SOOO badass, with such a badass piece of wood, and so much work, I wanted to cry, hahaha! You gotta do another collab with another giant cookie!
Great video. What is the longest time you can wait to pour your river after sealing your edges. Thanks
I’m gonna say the mix well and the last tip. I love wood work. But I’m horrible at playing the patient game. This Chanel is teaching many of us that to have great looking pieces of wood you need patience.
Cam, I have a question. How many projects do you take at one time? Do you have a drying ware house or just your garage ?
Great video. Thanks for the tip on sealing the top of the slab with Poly. Question. Built my own mold. Caulked it, used the sealer. Poured the epoxy and some leaked on one end. Obviously not sealed well enough. I caulked it again along that edge. However, I have lost about 1 inch of epoxy. So can I mix again and pour over the top of the other 1.5 inches? I poured yesterday at 4:30pm so its almost been 24 hours. Should I wait longer or can I pour another coat of epoxy over the top? Last question, do I need to match to the exact color with the die? Or if I get close to the same color, will the new pour mix with the existing epoxy and blend? My concern is the first pour is one color and its been sitting for 24 hours. If I mix and pour another layer, I am just adding to the top or will it blend?
Thank you for all the helpful tip I have been using epoxy on my Cornhole boards for a little over 5 years now. My customers love the finish on them and I love the look. I'm looking at doing my first table after the new year as this is a hobby of mine. I have saved this video so I can go back over when I start the project again thank you for the info. Have a great day
Awesome tips. Thank you. I just did my first epoxy project, and I learned a lot of lessons. The major one was patience. So, for me, the tip would be to wait serval days before trying to sand and finish your project. I had a lot of buildup on sandpaper, and it would swirl back on the surface of the epoxy making deeper scritches.
When I did my project, I bought some HDPE sheets and made the mold using caulk to glue them all together. But my pour was only 1” thick. May have to use some clamps for bigger project. And it worked well. I did not use mold release, but I will in the future. The epoxy did come off with no trouble though. And I will be able to reuse it for my next project.
Your work is inspiring, and I can’t wait to see your next project.
that was an super video and perfect timing ! Im doimg my first really big table and had so many questions. Cant really pick one as the best, but sealing the top while the pour is curing and curing for a couple weeks are right up there! Myname is Brian...this is on my wife's computer.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful. You mentioned sealing the edges, and later you said to seal the top. Can I do both with shellac? If not do both with the same liquid glass epoxy? Or should I seal the edges with epoxy and the top with epoxy?
Your rule to mix like a DJ who lives at home…. Where else would they live? Haha
A lot of good info. Thank you for sharing. Looking to do a small project soon for my wife. She wants a walnut slab desk with gold accents. Kind of like your “Toughest client yet” video. Would you suggest a gold epoxy pour using a powder for color or suggest using the brass stuff you used? This will be my first project using either. Figured I’d ask you to see what your thoughts were. Especially since you seem to respond to the majority of your viewer’s comments.
Thanks again for your time and content.
I've been watching your videos and doing research for the past 5 to 6 weeks. I'm about to attempt my first river coffee table. I have several questions:
1) What is the ideal moisture content of wood?
2) What is an acceptable moisture content?
3) My slab has numerous worm holes. how do I fill them with epoxy if I coat the surface with shellac?
4) You reference the use of chemicals to address bugs in the wood. What chemicals should I use?
5) The slab is only 1.7" thick. Can I add 1/4" plywood to the bottom to add thickness to the table? (I plan to have the entire perimeter epoxy so the plywood would not be visible from the side)
6) Would you recommend I create a mold that would allow the epoxy to run beneath the wood slab to increase thickness to 2"?
Thanks in advance for taking the time to review and respond.
Regards,
Jeff
Sealing edges with same product great idea. Question: I’m pouring large cracks in a 3”x40” red oak cookie. If I’m adding copper bow ties also should I inlay them before or after the epoxy process? I’m thinking after, don’t want to worry about needing to machine them down. If they were wood would you inlay them before the pour? Thanks
Good advice and clear explanation why those of us using metallic pigments don’t need to seal the wood.
@1:25 about sealing edges...seems a great idea for a video testing the theories with some scrap wood.
I am not an epoxy expert but I think from a chemical standpoint sealing your edges should be fine. Epoxy has good adhesive and cohesive properties, so it sticks to wood and itself just as well.
I like the dry wood. I had no idea it made a difference. Also, the very last, bonus rule. Cool thank you.
It makes!!! If the wood is not dry it will move with time. And that is a disaster
Great video. Worked with epoxy almost 50 years ago making parts from airplane to chemical vat covers. I learned that a chemical bond is much better than a mechanical bond. Its funny how it has not changed that much. Still a very unstable product. Meaning once it goes there is no turning back. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
This is another great video! Question: when pouring deep (greater than 2“) how long would you wait for the first pour to cure?
"Sealing the top part of the wood with with PU, or shelak or epoxy" thank you for your tips as someone who's doing research before making my first table, and hopefully a sellable and nice one, it's priceless for me!
Which epoxy you used before liquid glass with which you were satisfied with?
Thank you, with you good health and luck!
Seal the top of a project after pouring. Hi Cam! Thanks for this more in depth channel. Bought your epoxy workshop series recently to prepare for eventually making some.
Question:. What chemicals will kill bugs in wood? I have a 30" sawmill and my goal is to make a solar kiln and use local wood that I have milled on projects but I'm not there yet
I love this. I'm going to try it. Small side table
Thank you for everything! Thanks to you I am building my own table at the moment. I am waiting for the second layer to cure. Does the second layer have to be completely hard until I can put on the second layer? Thank you!
Top seal, Great list of rules Thanks
One coat mold release/buff in/add 2nd coat.
What do you use to clean up epoxy?
Do you reuse your home depot bucket after a pour?
Thanks for the secrets! For the final secret, do I coat the top of the board before putting epoxy in the middle or do I wait until after?
Thank you so much for your teaching. I do have a question for you if you have time to answer.
I just poured two crate tops and used liquid glass deep pour. Should I use another product to apply a flood coat? Or can I flood coat it with deep pour as well? I've searched for written answers to this question, but found nothing. I do appreciate your time, thank you.
21:59 min. Make sure the wood is dry. Now, how dry does your wood need to be? Also, I’m assuming that you are sealing before your pour. I’ve heard that you should do to the bottom whatever you do to the top to try to keep it from warping? I’m a rookie but plan on making a counter top for my wife so I have to ask all these crazy questions. I think you’ve got an awsome thing going there. I love watching your shows
Thanks Steve
Yes on sealing the wood, I used Alumilite on an unsealed burl and it foamed from the moisture
Great information. I learn so much from your videos. Some day I will attempt an epoxy project.
"Sealing the slabs and leave the curing process for a month" - Essential tips! I have thoroughly enjoyed watching your videos. I have not, (Or simply can't remember), seen how much collateral damage occurs with these projects. Do you throw away the buckets etc? How do you dispose of excess epoxy, (Especially when dealing with leaks), and basically the clean up process in addition to if/when there are are any issues. May seem like a boring question but would be fascinated to get some perspective from a pro ;)
Thanks for all the great tips!
Looking great Cam! Love the 4k view
I'm a relatively new epoxy table guy so consequently have a dumb question (yes, there is such a thing). I've started the process of flattening and sculpting the river edges with a 2" piece of Elm. After flattening, the slab was still cupping even though it was around 12 percent dry, so I clamped it flat. Wanting to keep it flat I then sealed it with linseed oil thinking I would be plaining it again and removing the oil. Am I going to have a problem with the epoxy adhering to the wood where I don't remove all the linseed oil? BTW your video is beyond excellent!
Hi Cam, all of my local suppliers are offering wood boards and slabs only 5cm( 2") of thickness, and I was wondering is there any workarround to make my tables thicker, is gluing two slabs or boards together cause the top to bend or twist or even separate, and how much it will affect the aestetic of the whole end product? Or am I just suposed to make smaller coffe tables because of this issue?
Love the channel, keep it up!
Patience! You didn’t specifically say the word but I got the message clear enough. Take the time to allow proper curing and mixing. Thus avoiding disappointment and more work. I would vote yes please to more of these types of videos. I am stoked to get going on my own tables and have really benefitted and enjoyed your site. Congrats on the “official you tuber status. Well deserved in my humble opinion.
Debark. It's funny that you had to say this however I just had to explain this this past week to a customer. Question: how does liquid glass stack up against eco-poxy? Are they both relatively bubble-free? Thanks, and thanks for another great video
It also has been fun watching your journey
I've sprayed a lot of conversion varnish over the years and it can easily take a month or longer to fully cure
The last tip was the best one!
Seal the top 👌 great video is there any difference between hard and soft wood timber when using epoxy?
Thank you. I wouldn’t have thought of sealing the top.
The tip about leaving the piece for around 3 weeks before removing. I’m like you and don’t tend to read instructions very carefully, if at all. I will now! Question for you: what size was your very first epoxy table and was it for a client or yourself? Curious if you started selling right away or doing projects for family?
Everything was very helpful, thanks again
Seal the the edge or top of the wood. By the way, Love the course, it's really helping me.
Thank you your info! Love this!
Long time subscriber from Iceland! Just wanted to thank you for all the information youve put out there. Im about to pour my second river table this week and thanks to you my first one was not a disaster and came out pretty decent. 👍🏼
Bucket mixing rule . Do u use the same bucket with previous mix to make a 2nd batch? Also my client wants a epoxy gloss finish should I just pour 1/4 inch above the wood then plane down or just come back after planing and do a flood coat
sealing the slab so it does not warp, and fans to remove heat. both great tips
))))
Your reply to the troll of the week is just epic! ))) I can't stop smiling ))
Top marks here! )))
Hello from Greece and congrats on your work . Around at 19 minute of this u r talking about brands of epoxy . I understand that U.S. is top in epoxy products . Could u please make a review on brands that are in Europe ( preferably Greece but thats way more than the already a lot i am asking ) . The reason is i think u mentioned in other videos that a lot of your subscibers are from Europe and imagine us trying to buy the 'good' stuff from U.S. . The cost is ridiculous. No matter what u do thank u for your vids
Seal the top.
Great tips. I'm wondering about cleanup. Do you clean your buckets with something before they harden? Or just use new buckets each time? What about the mixing paddle for the drill? Thanks.
Just let it cure and break it out 👍🏼
I love the info about sealing it thank you for all your information I want to know a link for your buffer and storage for sand paper thanks
Seal the top of the wood slabs with something. Thank you for the new channel and video. Is there a temperature too cold to do epoxy pours? I live in Michigan, with an uninsulated garage where I do my woodworking. I have a log workbench that developed a large crack as it dried (ok, really, two workbenches). They're deep voids on the side. I was trying to fill them with wood glue, but now that I've seen this and have a better understanding of deep pour. Since it's winter, I wonder if I can pour more than 4 inches with a fan blowing on it?