The feedback from my friend is very clear: He likes the polished edge significantly better for kitchen use. This is not what I expected. Gives me more to consider.
@@briangentry3118 interesting. Feedback from my commercial and residential customers like the toothy more. I think because most people rush home and try it on a tomato
@@theodorechan8665 No compound; no break in. I started using the ScotchBrite straight from the package. The angle question is harder. I always start at the exact sharpening angle, but sometimes the burr keeps sticking on even after several passes. In those cases I usually increase the angle a little bit and continue until the burr is removed. In some cases I have also increased pressure, which makes the belt "wrap around" the edge, increasing the angle right at the cutting edge. This has risk though because the wrapping effect can round off the edge if you use too much pressure. It's surprising how much the steel formulation affects burr removal.
There is slightly more to it than this though, cutting through flesh and fruit the polished edge will slice cleaner, less cellular crushing meaning the produce the will not spoil as quickly as bacteria can access less cells. A toothy edge will also chip easier, whereas a polished edge will roll easier. Horses for courses as they say.
Just so you know, if you sharpen on belts or softer stropping mediums, you'll get a rounded apex with no bite. If you mirror polish a knife on stones and are careful not to round the apex, you get pretty aggressive bite even at the 12,000 grit level. Gunny's Sharp Talk has a video on this demonstrating a rounded polish vs a good polish. The rounded apex would still shave hair easily, but wouldn't bite into a paper towel. The non-rounded polished edge aggressively grabbed the free hanging paper towel and bit into it with ease.
I just finished to test toothy edge vs polished edge at home on a Chinese Vg10 kitchen knife. My results are that there is basically no difference in edge retention. There is a minor difference in how they behave while they get dull but really really minor differences that we could also presume could be becouse of a slightly different use while dulling it. Anyway my test was an edge finished with a 600 grit + 1u compound on a leather strop vs one polished with a wetstone sequence getting to a shapton 30.000. Everything was done with a fixed angle systems. Then I started to cut cardboard pieces until the blade was starting to struggle cutting tomatos skin. It took the exact same cuts number in both cases. Both knives were able to push cut normal paper at the end of the test (which took around 300 cuts). So my thought is that we experienced different results becouse of different sharpening techniques or errors while polishing the blade. But the truth is that polishing is not much more then just a cosmetic procedure and if we like it we can do it without the fear of a weaker edge.
Been awhile since you've put up a video; good to see you again. I have my Kalley Rest now. On my birthday I'm getting a usb magnifier to see those edges when removing burrs. Haven't seen many on the Bess Exchange in awhile.
Hope you're enjoying the KallyRest. Not sure when I'll do more videos, but I like doing them. It's all about having something I think is interesting to show.
Yes. I demonstrated that in my original toothy versus polished edge video. I call it "cheating". :) The purpose of this test is to determine what kind of edge will cut through flimsy media that essentially requires a sawing (draw cut) motion. I know that a diagonal cut will cut through it much more easily, but it does not evaluate the toothiness of my edges like a straight on cut does. I'm sure there are other ways of showing toothy edge performance; this is just the first one I came up with that easily showed it and was easy to reproduce. In other words, the purpose is not to cut the paper the best way. The purpose is to test a specific aspect of the edge and it's sharpness. Thanks for the comment.
@@briangentry3118 Given that a tomato is spherical, your first cuts will usually be of this diagonal nature. I'd also be curious to know if the polishing method is changing the exit angle of (rounding) the edge. This also changes things significantly.
@@briangentry3118 I think you'll also find that the cutting technique changes performance and edge retention. "Sawing" with a polished edge is obviously going to be less effective because the edge is less "sawlike". Push cutting with a toothy edge is the same story, it ignores the function of the "teeth". I've also found that excessive sawing is a sure way to dull a polished edge faster. I guess what I'm confused about is what "specific aspect" you're testing by cutting rolled paper in the first place. How often do you cut (specifically) rolled paper in the kitchen? I'm not sure you're actually "evaluating" much of anything functional.
@@MrMZaccone We don't seem to be having a productive discussion here. Please enjoy my videos. Or don't watch if you don't like them. Either way, I do not want to debate you or argue. Best wishes.
I've had no problems with blades overheating. I keep my fingers on the blade while I sharpen and I can feel as it heats up. The belt sander is a Kalamazoo 1SM. I think it runs at 1750 RPM. It's surface feet per minute is significantly slower than a typical 1x30" belt sander like the popular one from Harbor Freight. This is important because the surface feet per minute (SFM) is what the blade experiences. I think the 1SM runs about half the SFM of the HF 1x30. What this boils down to is, the 1SM is very good for sharpening, as it runs fast enough to work efficiently, but not so fast as to easily overheat a blade, or take off metal too quickly. I think it's just the right balance of speed and power.
Hey Mike, That is a Kalamazoo 1SM 1x42" belt sander. I am using the KallyRest angle guide with it as well. Kalamazoo Industries makes the belt sander. But the angle guide is made by a small independent company called MechUSA. They are not affiliated in any way. You can find the 1SM at various online suppliers. It's a very good belt sander.
@@dimmacommunication Hmm. You might try a few strokes on something more coarse. A fine DMT. Or the brown rods on a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Both of those are in the 600 grit range. If you really want to go coarse and toothy then use something more like the DMT C (325 grit) or maybe a coarse India (Aluminum Oxide stone, about 200 grit). Deburring is the big challenge when you go very coarse.
The feedback from my friend is very clear: He likes the polished edge significantly better for kitchen use. This is not what I expected. Gives me more to consider.
wow. i would have expected the opposite. any more details on why?
@@theodorechan8665 He didn't really say. Just that he had spent a good bit of time with both and liked the polished better.
@@briangentry3118 interesting. Feedback from my commercial and residential customers like the toothy more. I think because most people rush home and try it on a tomato
@@briangentry3118 do you break in or add compound to the scotch brite for stropping use? Angle is same, more, or less for burr removal?
@@theodorechan8665 No compound; no break in. I started using the ScotchBrite straight from the package.
The angle question is harder. I always start at the exact sharpening angle, but sometimes the burr keeps sticking on even after several passes. In those cases I usually increase the angle a little bit and continue until the burr is removed.
In some cases I have also increased pressure, which makes the belt "wrap around" the edge, increasing the angle right at the cutting edge. This has risk though because the wrapping effect can round off the edge if you use too much pressure.
It's surprising how much the steel formulation affects burr removal.
There is slightly more to it than this though, cutting through flesh and fruit the polished edge will slice cleaner, less cellular crushing meaning the produce the will not spoil as quickly as bacteria can access less cells.
A toothy edge will also chip easier, whereas a polished edge will roll easier.
Horses for courses as they say.
yes on the polished..........
Just so you know, if you sharpen on belts or softer stropping mediums, you'll get a rounded apex with no bite. If you mirror polish a knife on stones and are careful not to round the apex, you get pretty aggressive bite even at the 12,000 grit level. Gunny's Sharp Talk has a video on this demonstrating a rounded polish vs a good polish. The rounded apex would still shave hair easily, but wouldn't bite into a paper towel. The non-rounded polished edge aggressively grabbed the free hanging paper towel and bit into it with ease.
I just finished to test toothy edge vs polished edge at home on a Chinese Vg10 kitchen knife.
My results are that there is basically no difference in edge retention. There is a minor difference in how they behave while they get dull but really really minor differences that we could also presume could be becouse of a slightly different use while dulling it.
Anyway my test was an edge finished with a 600 grit + 1u compound on a leather strop vs one polished with a wetstone sequence getting to a shapton 30.000.
Everything was done with a fixed angle systems.
Then I started to cut cardboard pieces until the blade was starting to struggle cutting tomatos skin.
It took the exact same cuts number in both cases. Both knives were able to push cut normal paper at the end of the test (which took around 300 cuts).
So my thought is that we experienced different results becouse of different sharpening techniques or errors while polishing the blade. But the truth is that polishing is not much more then just a cosmetic procedure and if we like it we can do it without the fear of a weaker edge.
You don't have to wrap the test medium all the way around the post, just catch it under the thrust washer.
Been awhile since you've put up a video; good to see you again. I have my Kalley Rest now. On my birthday I'm getting a usb magnifier to see those edges when removing burrs. Haven't seen many on the Bess Exchange in awhile.
Hope you're enjoying the KallyRest. Not sure when I'll do more videos, but I like doing them. It's all about having something I think is interesting to show.
THX for the Videos and time!
Nice video
If you cut through the rolled paper diagonally instead of straight on, it's a very different story.
Yes. I demonstrated that in my original toothy versus polished edge video. I call it "cheating". :)
The purpose of this test is to determine what kind of edge will cut through flimsy media that essentially requires a sawing (draw cut) motion. I know that a diagonal cut will cut through it much more easily, but it does not evaluate the toothiness of my edges like a straight on cut does. I'm sure there are other ways of showing toothy edge performance; this is just the first one I came up with that easily showed it and was easy to reproduce.
In other words, the purpose is not to cut the paper the best way. The purpose is to test a specific aspect of the edge and it's sharpness.
Thanks for the comment.
@@briangentry3118 Given that a tomato is spherical, your first cuts will usually be of this diagonal nature. I'd also be curious to know if the polishing method is changing the exit angle of (rounding) the edge. This also changes things significantly.
@@briangentry3118 I think you'll also find that the cutting technique changes performance and edge retention. "Sawing" with a polished edge is obviously going to be less effective because the edge is less "sawlike". Push cutting with a toothy edge is the same story, it ignores the function of the "teeth". I've also found that excessive sawing is a sure way to dull a polished edge faster. I guess what I'm confused about is what "specific aspect" you're testing by cutting rolled paper in the first place. How often do you cut (specifically) rolled paper in the kitchen? I'm not sure you're actually "evaluating" much of anything functional.
@@MrMZaccone We don't seem to be having a productive discussion here.
Please enjoy my videos. Or don't watch if you don't like them.
Either way, I do not want to debate you or argue.
Best wishes.
can you show us how you deburr using the blue SB?
I'll see if I can get a video shot of that.
Questions :
Do the trizac belts ruin the tempering of the blade ? are they safe ?
What are the specs of your belt sander ?
I've had no problems with blades overheating. I keep my fingers on the blade while I sharpen and I can feel as it heats up. The belt sander is a Kalamazoo 1SM. I think it runs at 1750 RPM. It's surface feet per minute is significantly slower than a typical 1x30" belt sander like the popular one from Harbor Freight. This is important because the surface feet per minute (SFM) is what the blade experiences. I think the 1SM runs about half the SFM of the HF 1x30.
What this boils down to is, the 1SM is very good for sharpening, as it runs fast enough to work efficiently, but not so fast as to easily overheat a blade, or take off metal too quickly. I think it's just the right balance of speed and power.
is your 1x30 sander custom or is that made by someone?
Hey Mike,
That is a Kalamazoo 1SM 1x42" belt sander. I am using the KallyRest angle guide with it as well. Kalamazoo Industries makes the belt sander. But the angle guide is made by a small independent company called MechUSA. They are not affiliated in any way.
You can find the 1SM at various online suppliers. It's a very good belt sander.
What type of angle guide did you say that was? Thanks
That's the Kally Rest from mechusa (mechusa.square.site/)
I have a couple of different videos on it that you can watch if you are interested.
@@briangentry3118 new web link for the Kally Rest: mechusa.com
Wich foods do toothy work better ?
Anything with slick skin: Tomato, green pepper, etc. I haven't really done extensive testing on this. Just my overall impression.
@@briangentry3118 I've found that my mirror polish Tojiro struggles with "prosciutto crudo" , basically a dry aged meat ... like patanegra etc...
@@dimmacommunication Hmm. You might try a few strokes on something more coarse. A fine DMT. Or the brown rods on a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Both of those are in the 600 grit range. If you really want to go coarse and toothy then use something more like the DMT C (325 grit) or maybe a coarse India (Aluminum Oxide stone, about 200 grit). Deburring is the big challenge when you go very coarse.
@@briangentry3118 lol yeah the edge was polished with a 12k stone.
Now I know I just prefer 1000grit diamond stone for general use