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Mine have not come unscrewed. Use locktite if you are concerned.

In practice I do not use the platen much at all. I don't think it's great for sharpening. It's more for heavy grinding. Thus why the one from Kalamazoo is called the "Knife Maker's Platen". It's for MAKING knives, not for sharpening them. I will remind you that I had nothing to do with the design of this product. I'm just a customer. Questions like this are probably best answered by the designer.

@briangentry3118 oh got it, i found that curry custom cutlery angle guide is much better, since its small and doesnt occlude so much space as kallyrest does. And angle guide from curry custom cutlery is only 20$

I have only used the KallyRest and the original platen that comes with the 1SM. So I can't really make any meaningful comments about those other products other than saying that they are less expensive than the KR. The reason the KR exists is because Mark (the man that built it) was not satisfied with what was available for the 1SM. The KR may or may not satisfy your needs and desires.

As stated around 0:55 in the video: It's a Trizact A65.

@briangentry3118 thank you. What do you think of tormek vs belts sharpening?

@@ia6980 The Tormek is capable of making really great edges. I like that it is water cooled. I also like that the bar is a guide. I'm not 100% sure how that guide works, but I've seen some incredible results from it. This person has it really down to a science: th-cam.com/video/T4LItIdH-FI/w-d-xo.html That said, the Tormek was out of my price range when I decided to buy a machine. It also has less available grit options. There are dozens and dozens of belts which can be bought for a few dollars each.

@briangentry3118 thank you! Are you still sharpening knives as a job? Or is it more of a hobby now?

This is one of those applications where I don't want to use the angle guide. Freehand is a better technique, for me, when doing this kind of sharpening. A lot of it is by feel.

@@briangentry3118 thank you

I do both. Many times I do freehand because it's a bit faster and there is less equipment to set up and manage. Other times, when I want a very precise result, I still use the rest. It can produce a very consistent edge that's quite impressive.

@briangentry3118 thank you !

As i said in the other comment you made, please contact the manufacturer of the Kallyrest at www.mechusa.com . Mark should be able to advise you on if it will fit. I think it will, but I don't know for sure.

@briangentry3118 thanks, I did, it does fits 1smvp

Always edge trailing. I don't seen any advantage to edge leading. But I do see safety concerns doing edge leading. I wouldn't be comfortable doing it.

@briangentry3118 got it! Thank you

@briangentry3118 which belts would you recommend for sharpening knives? Fixing chips in blades and stropping?

@@ia6980 My most used belts are the 3M Trizact belts: A100 (180 grit equivalent) A65 (240 grit eq) A30. (600 grit eq) I also have an 80 grit belt, a Trizact A160 (100 grit), and a 40 grit. Those are used a lot less. I use them for larger damage or reshaping. For stropping, I have a 1x42 leather belt with the smooth side loaded with compound. For burr removal on very coarse edges, I use a Scotchbrite "very fine" (blue in color) belt. This is able to strip off the burr and (mostly) not affect the toothy edge. A leather belt loaded with compound will strip off the burr VERY easily, but it will also polish the edge and remove some of the "tooth" of the blade.

@briangentry3118 oh wow, I thought leather is the best, but then toothy edge is important. Where do you order your belts from? Ill order that scothbrite very fine also, how long does it lasts for polishing?

The "VP" is new to me. I haven't seen one in person or studied it. The mast (round pole) looks the same as the normal 1SM, but I can't be sure. Please contact the KallyRest manufacturer at the web site or email address in the description of this video.

@briangentry3118 thank you!

It makes me happy to hear that this helped you out! Happy sharpening.

I made this video after reading many different comments on knife sharpening forums about trouble with cutting paper. The key points here are: 1. Paper type matters. Thinner is harder. 2. Grain matters. With the grain is easier. 3. A pure 90 degree cut is the hardest. Any angling of the blade in any of the 3 dimensions produces "slice" and makes the cut easier.

That's pretty neat. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for pointing me to Free42. The one I am currently using, RPN Anywhere, is good, but I think Free42 might have better key bindings, which makes calculations a lot more friendly. I tried only entering 220 one time, but that does not seem to work. Meaning that as soon as I do a calculation with the 220 (like 220, enter, 30, enter, <divide>) all of the operands are gone and I need to enter 220 again to do the next calculation. The reason I did 220 twice in my demo was because I only had to press enter a second time instead of typing 220 (and enter) two different times. They are both equivalent of course. Which one is more efficient? I guess that's an open question. Thanks again.

@@briangentry3118 also check Plus42, from same developer, but more features.

There is no specific way how to cut paper. If a knife is truly sharp is should be able to cut paper at virtually any angle. (90, 180, 60, 20 degrees etc).

I'm unconcerned about RFID security. However, I did do some experiments a while back. I had an access card for a door that worked by proximity. The card had to be right next to the sensor to open the door. I put the card in the top position and was able to open the door. In the 2nd position, or further down, I couldn't really get it to open the door. I think as card #2 I got it to open one in 5 or 6 tries. But that was really unreliable. I ended up pulling that card out manually every time. The XSTO is a big "C" made of metal. From the back is it essentially a big RF shield. It's a section of a Faraday cage. You can make your own judgements about the overall utility of having an RF shielded wallet. My opinion (though you didn't ask) is it's just a bunch of hand wringing. RF shielded credit card holders are a non-feature. There are no instances of RFID credit card theft that I'm aware of. It's far more common for your CC details to be stolen by wait staff at a restaurant that run your card through a skimmer in their pocket when they take your card to charge you for the food. In today's world, with smart phone apps for every credit card, you can easily turn on notification for each and every charge. You will then know in real time when any and all charges are made. This gives incredible peace of mind. There's no wondering if the card got charged. No worry that someone has stolen the info and might make a charge. You will know, instantly, any time a charge is made. So you can then turn that card off and contact the card issuer to reverse the charge. We live in a wonderful time! But again, make up your own mind. I've made my opinion quite clear I think. :)

@briangentry3118 Thanks for the info. I'm more concerned as I travel overseas a few times a year. I've been warned of credit card scanning in 2 particular countries I visit frequently. Of course I have notifications for each transaction but the whole point of having protection is so I don't have anyone spending my money. No pt in notifications if I've already lost thousands lol. Some sites don't prompt a code to be entered which usually you receive via msg. I guess I can always purchase 2 rfid blocking cards to place as my top cards but it sort of defeats the purpose of having an easy access wallet. I looked at the Ekster Parliament and Senate wallets which are great, but don't contain enough cards within the lift mechanism. I also hate the band for cash as it gets caught and loosens in and out of the pocket. Ive looked at Ridge, Groove Life, Secrid and a myriad of other brands but the Xsto is the most practical. Storing 8 folded notes is a pleasure without adding to the bulkiness of the wallet like the other ones do with only 2 notes. I need to exchange cash when travelling, but when I'm in the my home city, I hardly carry cash. Do you know of other brands I can look at?

I had to go look up my order receipt. Yes, this is the Crimson Red color. I just examined the wallet very closely. It still looks great. Turning it over and over in my hands I couldn't find any issues with the powder coat. ....but then I looked at the corners and found a pin point sized shiny spot where I think the powder coat may have chipped off. You really have to look to find it and with the naked eye, I can't even really tell what's going on. Just that it looks like maybe I'm seeing bare metal. In a PINPOINT sized area. It's been not quite 3 full years since I ordered the XSTO wallet. I've carried it everyday (minus one or two days per year) since I've owned it. I still think it's the best wallet I've ever owned.

@@briangentry3118 Wow thank you for the quick response! Appreciate the advice! Highly considering picking one up for myself. Having trouble deciding between the black and the red!

This is not my design. I purchased this product. If you want to give feedback to the designer you can go to www.mechusa.com and use the contact form or the email address shown there.

Finger cut test is a very advanced technique! lol I sharpen a lot of blades on a 1x42" belt sander using various belts. I believe I finished that particular blade using a leather belt loaded with compound. I own quite a few sharpening systems. I use the belt sander the most because it produces results very fast and make a very consistent edge. I have some videos on this channel demonstrating sharpening on that belt sander. Your skill level is exactly why I wrote my "Seven Secrets Of Sharpening" document. Do a google search and you'll find it on blade forums. You might enjoy it and/or learn something. Thanks for the comment.

There are some very light marks on it. They are more like shiny spots rather than scratches because they are not through the color to the metal. They are just marring of the finish. It's in very good shape overall. I carry it every day. I'm pretty impressed with how well it has held up.

I used my Kalamazoo 1SM, which is a 1x42 belt sander.

1. Yes this is a good rest. It's the only rest available for the 1SM that was actually designed for it. At least as far as I am aware. 2. 180 and then loaded leather should produce a good toothy edge. Mark (the designer of the KallyRest) has an enormous amount of information on this. Contact Mark and he will give you lots of advice. Leather may take away a lot of the tooth in the edge. It depends on what kind of edge you are looking for. 3. Belt selection is really about what kind of edge you want. Luckily trizact belts are fairly cheap. I recommend the A100, A65, and A45. Those have served me quite well. Best of luck to you.

Can you use it on 1smvp multi position?

Hows your luck did it helped you?

I show the original first at about the 0:51 mark.

He literally demonstrates the difference for you in this video.

Interesting thought. I don't do any kind of testing like that. Might be fun to see the results. I also don't rock climb or anything that might really strain rope. So I'm more interested in utility than ultimate performance. This video was mainly about the satisfaction of a more beautiful knot. Thanks for the comment. :)

Have you ever had a rope break at the loop knot?

I still use the rest. But not every time I use the machine. Sometimes I do it freehand instead. Particularly with very large things (machetes for example) or for unusual blades like serrated. I still like original belts that I bought for this: A160 for initial grinding. Then A100, A65, or A30 to finish. These are all 3M Trizact belts. Their grit rating are approximate and can be found in this table: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VaTf3MXuwuvH-QLwOci4f9B9Zhkbuu1wjoSCZIUsR-o/edit#gid=0 I generally finish on the A65 for many blades, but will go higher if I think I want more polish. I tend towards are more toothy edge than polished. See my comparison videos on toothy versus polished edges for a performance comparison. You can use other belts of course. The general idea is to start around 100 grit for initial removal (to shape the edge) and then finish somewhere between 220 grit (very toothy) to 600 grit or higher (more and more polished). 220 to 320 seems to be the sweet spot for me. A lot of sharpening shops tend to stop at 320 as well. Best of luck to you.

@@briangentry3118 Thanks very much!