12. How to Engrave & Cut in LASERGRBL . ORTUR LM2 PRO !
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2022
- I had a subscriber ask if I would do a video on how to cut in LASERGRBL.
I decided to do a video of engraving and cutting simultaneously with my ORTUR Laser Master 2 pro w/ LU2-4 (20 volt, 5.5 watt laser) :)
Important Tips :
Do not move your material you have engraved until you are done cutting. It’s almost impossible to get back into position!
Do not turn your machine off between steps.
NEVER leave your machine unattended !
I did forget to mention that I dialed my laser down one rotation with my Z height adjuster before cutting. If you are doing thicker material , you can dial it down even more.
Aha! The reason all my inside shapes did not cut first was that I had the “optimize travel” selected. It generalizes the entire piece .
I am not sponsored in anyway and I tend to use what I have. You don’t need the biggest and baddest things to start Laser Engraving ! On that note , I do appreciate if you would subscribe to my channel. It would be great to get paid for the time and effort I put into the videos. :)
I will be making the Christmas Ornament Templates available on my “Subscribers Only “ Facebook page.
More details on that and what you should have to begin Laser Engraving is in Video # 11.
Link for the actual Ortur site to purchase engravers and acessories. Don't be fooled by scammers!! Check out their new OLM3 w/ 10 watt laser that they have just launched!!
ortur.net/
Link for LaserGRBL from ORTUR with all libraries included:
ortur.net/pages/software
Referral Link for 5% off ORTUR
ORTUR.net/?ref=oyCaERgBZvhDrZ
#lasergrbl #laserengraving #ortur #orturlaser #artwork #howto #howtomake #woodsigns #xmas #xmasornament #lasercutting #lasercuttingmachine #lasercutter #disignscdn
Thank you so MUCH for this video. I followed your instructions, and nailed it on my first cut!!! With so much information, it can make it even more difficult for the newbie. I've spent lots of time playing with the router, but the laser is still so much different with a completely different GRBL sender. I found your video, closed all my other notes and windows, and felt confident that this is the best way for me! Thank you again
So glad I could help! Enjoy your Laser Journey! 🤗
This video was amazing. I just got my laser/engraver for Christmas so I could make wood cut outs. This was the best video I have watched that explains how to get the machine to cut. Also love the ladybug. Cannot wait to buy one.
Thank you ! I’m glad it helped. 😊 For updated instructions on how to use the “Append “ feature to be able to engrave & cut simultaneously, check out Video 16 & 21 😃
Very nicely done! I had a hard time finding anyone showing actual cutting form GRLB. So, thank you very much, for a very informative, and also a nice, very enjoyable video!!
Thank you Ron! Be sure to check out video #16 with the newest version of LaserGRBL on how to use the append feature along with the flood fill or outline feature to cut within the same file. I have finally tested it out and I can append the file as many times as I want to cut the layers I need for materials. It’s working amazingly for Christmas Ornaments I’m creating! Another video coming soon 😃
@@disignscdn , thank you! I will indeed give it a look. Also, I forgot to "like" the video, so I just now did it, and I subscribed to your channel, while I was at it. Thank you again, for your very well explained information, as well as for your nice reply.
@@rondoring4964 Thank YOU for joining our wee little laser engraving community here at Disignscdn. :)
@@disignscdn Thank you! I am looking forward to seeing more of your helpful hints here.
Very nice and to the point instructions!
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I try not to babble on 😂
This was very good, the best I’ve found on TH-cam. I’m a subscriber now.
Thank you! One of my first videos ... So be sure to check out some of my updated cutting videos. :)
Thank you. in just one video you answered all my questions. 🥰👍👍
Glad I could help 🤗
You are a wonderful teacher.
Thank you! 🤗💖
Bardzo dobrze pokazane. Dziękuję.
You are very welcome :)
Good job ! 👍Il like the "ladybug".😀
I just love my little lady bug! 😄
Excellent video. Thank you so much!!
Thank you 😊
I've updated this in the video description,.. and covered it in more recent videos,....but for anyone not wanting to read my novel there.. :D ... The reason all my inside shapes did not cut first was that I had the “optimize travel” selected. It generalizes the entire piece . Also, there is a Red Stop sign with a hand on it on the lower right of your LaserGrbl screen. This WILL STOP the laser right away! I've always been apprehensive to use it as it resets all my settings like the slider functions I had dialed in while engraving. ( That's why I keep a "Laser Bible" to jot down all my setting for each project and material. ) The stop bottom to the top left will not stop engraving or cutting right away if Your GCODE has already finished sending. And finally, I have completely tested out the Append function, that I go over in Video #16 . The new flood fill and outline features in the latest LASERGRBL version. I am happy to say it will indeed do multiple cuts and I have also discovered a much easier way to save files for precise engraving and cutting. So updated instruction video is coming soon! :)
great video! Thank you
Thank you!! :)
¡Maravilloso!
How do I cut a single straight line? I want to cut some things in half. If I vectorize it will cut a 2 dimensional shape, x axis and y axis. If i dont vectorize, it will cut side to side with a big kerf. Currently I have to import a rectangle, vectorize, and stop the burn after it's done the first line.
Is there a way to just cut a single straight line?
You are able to import a single line in an .svg , or .dxf format . I suggest giving that a try. You may need to play with the size of the file you are exporting a couple of times to get the line size you need. 😃
@@disignscdn ok thanks, I will try. I've just been using png so far.
Thank you so much
Thank you I was missing one part and you hit it! Happy I watched your video😁
Awesome! Glad I could help 😊
great video!
Thank you ! 😃
For Anyone having issues, I suggest joining the “LASERGRBL Community” on Facebook. There are a lot of helpful individuals along with myself that are ready to help. :) facebook.com/groups/lasergrbl/?ref=share&fs=e&s=cl
Thank you for posting these videos! My LM2 20w (predates PRO) is about two years old. I have not yet purchased lightburn and did not realize that I could do gray scale in lasergrbl. I have not yet cut anything (successfully) either but have wood pieces about the size off yours (3mm, though). So excited! Two questions: Have you done anything yet with your rotary? Your air assist connection came with your PRO, didn't it? I am on my second connection as the previous one cracked and I am a bit challenged with getting to home position. It could be the way that I have mind attached, though. I need to find time to get back to this!
You are very welcome Carol! I don’t have a rotary attachment yet. There doesn’t seem to be enough hours in the day to let me create everything I want to! If I get a rotary attachment, my husband may never see me! 😆
I purchased my air assist nozzle from King Gubby Designs and my aquarium filter from Amazon . Yes we can do photos and lots of greyscale options .. you too are about to find out we don’t have enough hours in our days 😆
@@disignscdn I already know there are not enough hours, unfortunately! That is why I have not learned enough about my machine along with several other priorities. I keep mine in the garage on a wheeled cart and the 100 degree plus summer also dampened my enthusiasm. Looking forward to cooler weather.
Thanks so much for your nice video: i learn a lot from your settings on Laser Gbrl, i'm going to make my first Laser review and of course i will come back here to make a step by step from your video!
I hope you will help a little in case, you have a new subscriber too!
Thanks and a big ciao from Italy, Alberto 🇮🇹
I’d be happy to help if I can 😃
@@disignscdn Hi, thank you for your answer: soon I'll be dealing with a Longer laser, I imagine little difference from your Ortur, I would like to ask you: how do you set the cutting/engraving area of your laser in Laser GBRL? What if my laser engraves on a 40cm x 40cm area? Thanks, I think it's the first step to know where the piece is, thanks for your help, Alberto.
@@ab-shop To set your Laser Engraving area to what you have. Turn your machine on. Then go to "Grbl" top left corner, then "Grbl Configuration". You will change the values of $130 & $131 to 400.00 as 40 cm is 400 mm . Then click "write" and you're all set. :)
@@disignscdnThank you so much i will !! ATB from Italy, Alberto.
Thanks to your videos, I have started making ornaments with my 10W diode laser using 4mm plywood. Everything cuts great except I'm have trouble dealing with charring on the edges. How did you avoid the charring getting all over? Do you seal the edges?
Hi Ken! To avoid Charring, lower your power and add an additional cut pass. Excessive charring is from too high a power and too slow of speed. Sometimes depending on the material it's hard to avoid, but a little sanding and then a quick vacuum / air compressor spray cleans it right up. If you're leaving it natural..a little spray of clear doesn't hurt, but it will blead any soot left behind. If you're painting it, a spray of sealer before painting will help keep those colors vibrant. :)
I am facing a configuration problem - finding the factor between the motors step value ($100) and the lines per mm- BUT FOR THE X AXIS!
I am trying to make the engrave more precise (iam getting zig zags in closer look..)
Do you know how to calculate the ratio of the X axis to get the sharpest result?
thank you!
Personally, I have never had to do this. When I was having zig zags in any of my lines , I tightened my belts. But, I did find this documentation on how to configure it on the Lightburn Forum. Hope this helps 😃
docs.lightburnsoftware.com/Troubleshooter/StepsPerMM.html
Can you help me to set the machine to engrave words ? I have been practicing on a piece of wood that came with the machine but nothing is engraving although the laser operating, also the image of the word I want engraving isn't uploading on the actual lasergrbl ☹️
Hi Olivia! If you could let me know your type of Laser Engraver and the power of your laser, a photo of your screen for settings you are trying, a photo of your screen after you’ve clicked “create” and I’d be glad to help ! My e-mail is dianecolclough70@gmail.com
puedes compartir los archivos para imprimir los diseños
I have designs available for free on the subscribers only page on Facebook . Disignscdn 😊
I honestly hate to see people struggle. This video is all about more time, more struggle, more guessing what its going to do, and a high what I call a whoops factor. More frustration is what I see and hear. Listen for it, there was many. This is a entire list of "work arounds" to get around software deficiencies that doesn't entirely work as seen here.
There is inexpensive software available where none if these workarounds or extra effort is needed. No drawing the art multiple times hoping its the same size, no praying the laser positioning is correct between separate jobs. No relying on 29 cent inaccurate limit switches repositioning to the sub mm. No praying the software will do as you hope while you watch it do something different. More importantly no franticly sitting on the kill switch praying you hit stop before your project is destroyed.
I always say there is multiple tools available, for example hammers. You would not use a sledge hammer to hang a picture nor would you use a kitchen hammer to break up a cement driveway. You could but each will need a lot of work arounds, be time consuming and not be perfect. Thats Lasergrbl today! Workarounds, many of them. Each increasing the possibility of a destroyed workpiece. I heard that in her voice at the many attempts to figure out the many complicated workarounds to make this "mostly" work. The very end was likely a destroyed work as the laser hit the project after it dropped, even if still perfectly aligned the laser is out of focus, a large beam and typically burns. So the mark would be visible and not a perfect piece.
My question is why would someone spend $500 - $2000 on a laser and fight with free software to save $85 bucks.
The biggest hints to being problematic was "oh it didn't cut the inside cutouts first and I don't know why" and standing on the kill switch and explaining it doesn't stop it right away. Neither of these should be even needed, you should know exactly how the project process will proceed and you should not have to pray work positioning matches the artwork.
Something common I have seen in the diode lasers is lets call it poor frames (or belts), very visible in this video. Notice when the Y axis homes the laser module "lifts and tilts" or climbs. You never want to be near the limits on a project with this problem so its better to be out in the middle a bit.
I always appreciate feedback. But I’m not knocking LASERGRBL at all, nor am I knocking my machine. A very popular paid software (LB) refused to work for me.. After speaking with tech support who were very helpful it was still a no go. LASERGRBL got me going and has kept me going. I don’t need a designing software like LB .. I have all that with having a sign shop and graphic designing for over 25 years.. the software I have is no $85 . Would I have loved to use LB? Heck ya! Will I use it with my next machine ? Heck ya I’ll give it another try. LASERGRBL is a good starting point for individuals just starting as far as I’m concerned. LB can be daunting to some. Yes, I did find the issue to my inside outlines not cutting first. “Optimize travel “ had to be turned off as it generalizes the entire piece to optimize. which I cover in a future video. I can assure you as well my piece that I created is perfect! I could send you images by e-mail if you would like. With it falling in only maybe 2mm on it’s last pass…(because you didn’t see me continuing it right? ) there are no marks.. how do you come up with “I bet it was destroyed?” the wood did not shift etc. etc. and blah blah blah.. For the hobbiests that are getting into Diodes they need a jumping off point.. not everyone can run out and buy a C02. My ORTUR has more than paid for itself 10 times over by work I have sold, continue to sell, repeat customers, & word of mouth (best ) advertising.. I don’t think people would be buying it if it was sub standard work . I’m fully aware I have an e-stop.. bottom line is when doing anything , do not leave your laser un attended. So go and take your negativity and knock LASERGRBL elsewhere. CHEERS !!
Hi. How do you cut mirror acrylic on the diode laser? Mine burns
Sorry , I’m confused on your question. You are cutting acrylic or engraving a mirror ? If you are cutting acrylic , be sure it is a certain kind that’s meant for lasers. (Paper protective coating is how you can tell. A thin plastic protective film is not laser friendly) I have heard clear can not be cut either.. but don’t quote me on this as I have not tried cutting it all. I’ll be trying lists of things once I get my enclosure built finally! Until then, I stay away from anything too toxic 😃
can it cut on clear/transparent acrylic sheets? or at least with the paper masking?
Definitely! Truth be told, I personally have never tried as I would want to have an enclosure with my air exhaust hooked up because of the toxic fumes. Cast Acrylic clear is great for engraving as it turns a milky white. When cutting you definitely want the Acrylic that has the paper protective sheet. This Acrylic is better than the type that comes with a clear plastic protective cover. (At the moment I cant remember which type is which and this is how I would remember when going to buy it! :D ) Acrylic is an extremely versatile material which provides great results when being laser cut or laser engraved. Both extruded and cast acrylic can be laser cut, however extruded acrylic can be left with a slight burr on the edge of the material after laser cutting whereas cast acrylic is left with an extremely smooth edge. Depending on the power of the laser tube it is possible to cut acrylic up to a thickness of 25mm whilst maintaining a square edge. Clear cast acrylic is normally favoured when producing awards and plaques because once engraved it turns a frosty white colour which creates a stunning finish. Certain colours do not react very well when laser cut because the pigment or dye in the acrylic reacts poorly to heat, however the edge discolouration can normally be reduced by modifying settings on the laser such as the cutting speed, the volume of air flow and the amount of power being used.
Remember , a C02 laser will always be faster than a diode .
Be sure to check out ORTUR laser groups on Facebook to see true users creations and their settings to see if this may be the machine for you. :)
Awesome work, how many watts is your laser?
In this particular video I am using my 5.5 watt. I also have the new 10A laser on my OLM 3 :)
Wow! Nice, thanks for sharing.
really appreciate the video! where can i get the lady bug 🐞?
Thank you 😊I got my lady bug off Amazon . I also picked up a cordless little car vac . It works great in case you don’t want to accidentally scratch anything with bristles from the lady bug. 😃
@@disignscdn thanks! i found a two pack on amazon. we just got a 10w laser and your vids are a big help
@@enyoc3d oooooo you are going to have so much fun with that new Laser!! Kiss and hug the family as they may not see you for a while! :D
I get lost on the 300 dpi setting. do you have a video hat shows the correlation between your graphic, and the piece of wood size? I nother words how do you know the 300 dpi will fit on that size wood ? thank you in advance.
I design all my graphics to scale. So say my piece of wood is 4.5" x 4.5" . I will draw a box that same size. I make it white with no outline. Pop all my graphics on it. Exporting at 300 dpi from my program keeps the graphic to scale. Now, I have read that inkscape users export at 96 dpi to keep it to scale. Video 34 Purrrrfect placement goes over my process a little more now that I use a transparent backgound so Lasergrbl will recognize my white bounding box. Hope this helps ;)
@@disignscdn Thank you for your reply. one more question - please. how did you know the piece was aligned properly (x,y) ?
@@joey0618 I usually always engrave or cut with the material lined up to my home position x-0 y-0 . If have a bigger piece that I can't engrave from the home position I will use the offset function in the second window / dialogue box that will come up for your speed and power when you open the file. So I will have perfect placement ever time. ( I always use "frame" as well to make sure it's on the material) Do you have limit switches on your machine ?
I have the same laser but what is that extra piece at the tip. Is it air assist?
Yes, that black nozzle tip you see is for my air assist. I’m trying to Remember where I got this original one. I think it was KT designs out of the states. I found them on one of the laser groups on Facebook. It’s 3D printed. Now King Gubby Designs have a variety of nozzles available and the same air pump I use 😃
What power laser does one need for it to cut through 1/4 inch plywood?
I would recommend the 10 A laser, that’s 2 x 5.5 watts put together . There are a lot of Aftermarket Lasers out there and you have to be very careful to check what the actual output of wattage is and compatability for your machine . For example the LU2-4 is a 20 watt but 5.5 output. My OLM2 Pro and OLM3 are set up for 24 voltage while other machines are 12 voltage . I know there’s an 80 watt laser out there , but off the top Of my head I cannot remember who makes it. But once it pops in too my head, I’ll post it here. 😃
In my video #21 I am cutting through 1/4 “ Birch plywood with my 10 A 😃
@@disignscdn Thank you! WIll keep reading about these very cool devices!
@@PhatTony I decided to test out my wee little LU2-4 on 1/4" birch. Now mine is the original Laser that came with the Ortur LM2Pro when they first Launched it. Now I see They've changed to a Short focus and Long Focus model. I'm pretty sure mine is equivalent to a Long Focus. Anywhooo.. I was able to cut through with Air Assist at 200 - 225 mm/min 90% power. by my 3rd pass the laser was already coming through! But I did have to do 5 passes total as my board was a little warped. The 80 watt Laser is by LaserTree but in reading up on it a little more. It's only a 10 watt output, but it is for a 12 volt machine. :)
@@disignscdn OK, thank you! I am gathering all of this information and hopefully will make an educated purchase using all of this info. Thank you very much!!
Hello, I have a big order coming up that involves cutting circles. My issue is that the right side of the circle is getting slightly more cut than the left side. Any idea why this is happening?
Also, when I cut my circles it goes side to side unlike yours which is cutting in an actual circle, how? Please get back to me
It could be that your wood has a slight warp and one side is higher than the other. (Not level) Are you using the measure / focus tool to make sure your laser is in focus in a few spots before starting to cut? It also could be the type of wood you are using and in that specific spot where the glue or wood may be denser. If you have a big order for cutting , be sure to clean the laser lens regularly 😃
@@kassius2015 It sounds like you are engraving rather than cutting. Be sure to use the “Vectorize” setting and “ no fills” as the settings . Turn off your “ optimize travel” I’m curious how you exported the file and from what program. Sometimes nodes and curves from say adobe illustrator files are not combined or welded and may only do it in certain sections if you are working with an svg /dxf hope this helps .
@@disignscdn it should help! Thanks so much. What do you use to clean the lens?
@@kassius2015 I first will blow out anything with a can of compressed air, I do this to my fan in my laser regularly to prevent it from over heating. Then I will gently take a q-tip with rubbing alcohol to clean my lens and then a clean dry one to gently wipe the lens before re-installing the tip. Video #25 at 20:15 in shows how I clean my laser. :)
As a complete newbie there's a lot i don't understand what you're talking about. What does pressing home actually do? What do you mean "make sure your origin is set to your home"? Is that a separate step after pressing home? or before? or is setting the origin to home the same as pressing home? I don't know how to get something to print in the middle of my piece of wood. Am i supposed to align the wood so the edge as at the 0mm mark in the machine?
Also, i notice you're using a graphic which has an outline around the whole thing. If i'm engraving text and a few icons together, there's no border around them all. The border is going to be when i cut, not when engraving. How does the machine know where i want the text positioned on the piece of wood? At the moment i've just created a white border in my vector program, and it doesn't seem to pick it up as part of the graphic. But is that the normal way? Or is there a way to center text/graphics. Without the white border around my graphics/text, the graphics is butted right up against the edge of the page (on my screen), at 0.0.
I have no faith that the laser is going to know where to center the text in the middle of my wood. 😂
Pressing the “home”
Button will only work if you have homing switches. Your machine would move to X-0 and Y-0 when powered on. If you want to start anywhere else on your material , use those arrow keys to jog your laser. When your laser is in the position you want. Press “set origin” that’s the button that looks like a world globe and a red pointer on it. To get your work centered , you can use set origin to center in the window that pops up when you are first opening the file and putting in your settings. To find center on your work piece, either measure, draw an x for center point from corner to corner, frame it, etc. You would jog the laser to center of your material and click on “Focus” to be sure you are on center. Turn off “ Focus” and Press that world globe button . That’s how easy it is to set your center .
No, LaserGRBL will not recognize or be able to trace anything in white. You would need that outline that you intend to cut either a solid fill of black so you are importing 2 files.. one to engrave it and one to cut OR make a black hairline outline around the white outline and you can use the append file, flood fill method to engrave and cut. This option is only available in the latest Version . See most recent video on my channel . Plus I talk about setting origins in Laser Engraver Issues. :)
@@disignscdn OK thanks so much, that's so helpful! 😀
I just csrnt get min to cut some times I get perfect cut single paste but then try agen wont get a cut at all no mater how meany pases i do
We all have days like that as no 2 pieces of material are ever the exact same. That’s where material makes a difference. Like MDF for example is the most difficult I find to cut. It’s a dense fibrous gluey mess that loves to smoke and de focuses the laser. I’ll stick with my Baltic birch blanks.
The laser lens needs to be cleaned more regularly for optimum power. Focus each and every time you’re cutting. Make sure your material is flat and level. Always check that you have “constant power” on and have changed the min power and the max power to the top power you are cutting at. 😃
@@disignscdn I think I found the problam wen go do second pass so on not lining bk on on the exact same spot not shore how sort that as no movement on frame or materiel so on
@@jujucattys156 I'm curious on the type of machine you are using. If you have homing switches, sometimes you do get some bounce back when it homes. I'll try and find the grbl code for you to change your homing speed. If it's set to too rapid you get more of a bounce back. Also, Are you trying the "append file" feature to open up the file inside of the main file. By using this as many times as passes you require has the machine not returning to home but continuously cutting. You can always press that big red stop button on the bottom right of Lasergrbl to stop your machine right away if it does go through the material before all your passes are completed :)
@@jujucattys156 1 more thing I should suggest is either slowing down your rapid ( bottom right of screen, click on where you see "S G1 GO", slide the slider for the G0 all the way to 25% before you cut. ) You can also totally disable the "rapid go" speed by going to top left, click on "Grbl" then click on "settings". Click on "Rastor Import" . And finally click on the box to " Disable G0 fast skip" I only suggest going this route when you are cutting as it will take longer to engrave, but it will be a cleaner more accurate engrave / cut.
How do u cut on laser Gabriel
Is your question on how do I cut on LaserGRBL ? This video, as well as #15, #16, #21, #23 all cover cutting. I will have a newer up to date video coming out soon! :)
Is this 500MW?
It’s the ORTUR Laser Master 2 Pro . LU2-4 laser. (20 watt laser 5.5 volt ) finally more 24 volt replacement lasers are coming on to the market. ORTUR has just launched a 10 watt laser as well. I’d really like to try out the new NEJE 80 watt laser...someday!!
@@disignscdn Three optical power levels are available : 1 diode 5.5w, 2 diodes 11w, 4 diodes 22w (very expensive at the moment).
Yes, they are expensive at the moment ..but I’m going to win the lottery..any day now! 😆
When I upload my design and I click play, it doesn't work, my engraving goes back to tracing it
I’m not sure exactly what you mean? Are you having issues engraving or cutting? Is what you are wanting to cut a solid fill when bringing it into LaserGRBL ? Because if it is just an outline , and you are vectorizing it , with no fills turned on , it will just give you a double line☺️.
how much..maam..
How much is what? 😃
Nice work but the video flash thru screens so quickly I can't tell what your doing. Beginner here so Im looking for guidance/info. It would be nice to slow it down some for us idiots. Thanks
Yes, it was brought to my attention it was “warp speed” I told “ Scotty” to slow it down and I have posted more videos at hopefully a good cruising speed 😊
تتحدثين كثيراً في اشياء غير مفيدة 😒
Sorry, I can't understand your comment. Does Facebook not have a translate button?
oh, just translated this. I'm sorry you didn't feel it was helpful. Many others have. Have a wonderful day!
لم اقل انه لم يكن مفيد لكن تخرجين عن الأشياء المهمة
@@mbbcfyer104 Maybe check out video 16. how to engrave and cut all in one file using the new append feature with the latest LASERGRBL update. 2:36 minutes & seconds of the very first of the video. you can skip the rest ;) Video 7 is lasergrbl more in depth. :)
you showed everything, although quite too fast in reality, but you never actually explained what you were doing and why.... this was pretty much useless as a "instructional" type video. You really need to actually explain what you are doing, and how to set up the files before you import them into the lasergrbl software. just showing us what you are doing, does absolutely nothing in regards to teaching.
Hi Orion 77, This video is an admittedly older tutorial and Video #16 is the updated version with the "append" feature. Videos #15, 16 & 21 are all about engraving, cutting and even some painting. I try to keep my videos short but precise. The first part of the video shows me taking my designs and exporting them. I do think there's a fair bit of explaining there for the basics to get going. I do not go step by step in the design software as chances are, many people are not using the same software as I have. I can go in to greater detail if that's something my viewers request. It's unfortunate you could not follow along as many viewers have been able to, and found this video helpful by me showing what I was doing. Have a wonderful day and happy creating. :)