6 Must Have ACCESSORIES for LASER Engravers / Cutters | Feat. Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2024
- *These six upgrades and add-ons for your laser cutter or laser engraver are, in my opinion, actually worth it to make your cutting and engraving experience more efficient, safe and effective. #laserengraver #lasercutter #accessories
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📦 PRODUCTS IN THIS VIDEO 📦
• Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro ($10 Off with coupon ORTURPRO): s.zbanx.com/r/3LPmQMzV0JKG Price: $459 Code: ORTURPRO
Price after code: $449
• Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro on eBay: s.zbanx.com/r/gKoF0zbs6MYq
• Ortur Laser Master 2 pro on AliExpress from $449: s.zbanx.com/r/5e5wdqpgzCfJ
• Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro Metal Enclosure ($10 Off with coupon ORTURPRO): s.zbanx.com/r/P5JBQonhE1FM
• Other DIY Enclosures Out There: • Ortur LASER Master 2 P... , • Building an Enclosure ... & • Ortur LASER Master 2 E...
• OLM2 Z-Axis Height Adjuster (3D Models - Needs modding for pro): www.thingiverse.com/thing:470...
• Plate for OLM2 Pro Height Adjuster (3D Models - Print at your own risk - I couldn’t get this one to work): www.thingiverse.com/thing:492...
• Feet and Risers for OLM2 Pro (3D Models): www.thingiverse.com/thing:497...
• Air Tube Support (3D Model): www.thingiverse.com/thing:494...
• Ortur Measurement Grid Files: www.thingiverse.com/thing:491...
• Wyze Cam Pan: wyze.com/wyze-cam-pan.html
• Logitech C920x Webcam (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/xrNc82d
• NexiGo Webcam (Amazon Best Seller - Paid Link): geni.us/av2jZO5
• Inexpensive Fish Pump for Air Assist (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/LdEG
• 8 Feet of Air Tubing (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/cx7a
• 2” DC 12V Brushless Blower Fan (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/Av4Gr
• Inexpensive 4” Exhaust Fan (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/zQ7DDkD
• OK 4” Fan (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/i8by
• Nice 4” Fan (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/T767myT
• 4” Duct Hose (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/t2BzS
• 4” Duct Mounting Plate (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/4Tenc4
• 4” Connector with Damper (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/Acn1A6S
• Honeycomb Aluminum Bed: www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Honey...
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OMG that camera from underneath on a wire is brilliant!!! I haven't seen that done on other videos...and I've had the issue of not cutting all the way through (so frustrating and such a huge time waste). Awesome video, great content well presented! Thankyou!
Dude. This video is next level. Good work.
Great posting, very well presented, thanks. Covers everything I would potentially have thought of.
Wow so much information in just A few minutes this is cool , I like it
Pro tip, if the laser didn't cut all the way through in certain spots, pull out an orbital sander and sand away. Works like a charm
Louisiana Hobby Guy has a video out on restarting a job after removing the piece.
The squid games honey comb method
Oh mate, underneath camera! thanks for the idea! This is bloody brilliant
So awesome! I love the way u suggest them!!!
Great video! I learned a lot! Thanks.
I'm new to this and totally confused. This is a very helpful video. Thanks.
I love how you still put up the handheld hole drill fail on the orange shroud.
Yeah I wanted to show the good as well as the bad but with some tape it all worked out.
We have a K40 laser in the office with ventilation of the housing. It is quite miserable. At home I attached a 40W diode laser to a MPCNC. Instead of putting the whole CNC in a housing I attached the ventilation hose directly to the Z-axis near the laser - so the smoke is sucked directly away and through the window out of my room.
The idea with the camera is great, thanks 😀
great vid!... the only thing i would add would be a lightburn camera for setups..
Ooo, my lm2 is on its way now. I'll be doing most of these upgrades.
Not fussed about the z adjuster since I'm only using it to engrave booklets for my business. So won't be adjusting often
Upgrade # 1... This was on my radar before even ordering mine. I'll either do a semi-manual like yours or drop a spare stepper on it and a BLTouch w/ a nodemcu/esp32 or my binned Ender 3 controller.
I have that same one pro 2 the new one it's on its way it was donated by one of my clients. As a gift for doing their website.
You Missed the Biggest upgrade option a Motorized bed that raises / lowers for different cut material. That’s on my build list.
I like the enclosure.
With the air assit do you have a link where to make the part that the fan attach to. I think it's clever doing that and using hose pointed down.
Nice suggestions!
Hi. Thank you for your video. Do you know of some option for air assist to use on the snapmaker? Thank you
I agree that using the camera underneath is brilliant! Specifically, which camera did you use? I bought a Logitech C920S and it will not point up from underneath without modifying it. Did you use the NexiGo camera you listed? Did you modify the mount so it would point up?
haha that's smart ideas. Thanks!
Hi,
Thanks for sharing the video, I am new to this and am looking for the best option of laser / engraver for acrylic. What would you recommend ?
I'm looking at the 65x50cm models, they come with the same range of laser heads from 2 to 20W I think my budget can handle the 15W unit now that I repaid my overdraft. I don;t think they are quite as developed as the Orthur though, like exposed PCB, and no obvious emergency stops etc... but the frame looks fine for a 2D CNC.
Where can I buy the shield for the laser head? I can't seem to find it anywhere. Thanks.
Hahaha, "We'll let the ozone worry about that". I decided to click the subscribe button after that.
Thanks for the great video! Could you recommend an air purification system? I would rather not run a hose out of a window. Thanks so much.
Thanks so much for the video. Where do I get the lasers you mentioned that could be upgrades to do more cutting?
If you search for "laser upgrade for ortur laser master 2 pro" you'll see some options, like this one (super expensive) www.endurance-lasers.com/collections/pro/products/an-endurance-10-watt-plus-pro-laser-module or these ones (much more affordable but not much more powerful) neje.shop/collections/all-products/laser-module.
@@The3DPrintingZone awesome. Thanks so much.
Cool video. Where can I download the file for the 3d pins you mentioned to secure my substrate to the grid while cutting/engraving?
They're out there in a few places but these ones look like a good option. I don't use the honeycomb grid so I haven't tried these out myself. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4420478
is the polycarbonate enclosure protecting you from the laser light or do you still need to use the glasses?
clever!
Did you try to engrave/cut a piece 250mm x 600mm size with this machine? Can you give me the distance between the bottom of the controller and the desktop? Thank you
Can I swap out my laser head for a more powerful one and use it on my existing frame?
I like to work on light burn in the morning when I'm having my morning coffee and then move the file over to the shop off the server. But I cannot seem to get rid of that device menu and get it to go away so I can work on my morning project.
Do you have the 3D file to print the back plate to slide the z up and down
Hi! I have a Laser Master 2 Pro with the same laser as you, the LU2-4. You mentioned stronger lasers as replacements for the LU2-4 in this video. Do you happen to a have a list handy or could you mention a few drop-in replacements? I haven't seen any and most certainly not of Ortur's website, so I am thinking that these might be aftermarket, 3rd party mods.
I don't have a list but if you check out the Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro group on Facebook, several folks there have upgraded theirs and listed what they used.
I am curious about the full on air filtration system? Do you have a link to purchase this?
Me too, seems interesting.
can you stipple polymer with this laser?
Cutting/engaging with Snapmaker 2.0? Is it any good (hobbyist not commercial)? I noticed it comes with a dedicated surface for laser use. Is the laser upgradable?
Yeah, the CNC on the Snapmaker is pretty great. Perfect for the size that it is. They just announced a 10w laser upgrade which I believe will be available next month. I’ll try it out as soon as they’re available and review it.
Have tried the Y axis for engraving a round object? I want to engrave bottle stop or pens
I’ve used it on the Snapmaker but not on this machine. Looks pretty cool though!
Just FYI, A soldering iron does a better job at making a hole in acrylic than using a drill. Proper ventilation is needed, but does not shatter or break acrylic.
What is the link to the aluminum grid you mentioned? Thanks
I knew I forgot something! Thanks for the reminder and here it is: www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Honeycomb-Grid-Core-Cell/dp/B01AYK3M2S/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=laser+cutter+honeycomb&qid=1633650498&s=industrial&sr=1-18
Protective glasses should be number one, and air assist number two.
Definitely need the safety glasses first! And ya air assist could be 2nd 🤔🤷🏼♂️
That poor orange shroud. You destroyed it with your drill @ 6:29. Lol
That's what he gets for using regular drill bits instead of drill bits made to drill plastic (or a step drill).
Yup - I murdered it. But a bit of packing tape held it back together just fine. Lessons for next time.
Thank you for the list, most are already on my Wishlist. In evaluating the Z-axis adjustment, I watched a video claiming that the added mass (weight) of the Ortur z-axis caused the laser to overshoot the intended stopping point. I imagine that this would occur when stopping form a fast white space skip back to burn speed. Have you experienced this?
I haven't seen any difference in performance, no, but I suspect that's because the added weight is so minimal with these prints. Two light pieces of plastic with a 20% infill don't add up too much. It's always a good idea to test, of course, but I didn't have any troubles.
They make special drill bits for drilling plastic/acrylic that won't break the plastic like your drill bit did.
Well having support under and clamping while drilling would help, I dont think the drill was the problem, more of a drill skill problem...
Where did you find the grid file?
Which is the better version of ortur, the pro-SF or pro-LF? I’m looking to buy next week sometime and definitely want the best bang for my bucks.🤙🏼
Personally I'd go with the LF since it's a bit better for cutting and can still do a great job with engraving. If you're pretty much exclusively going to be doing engraving then go with the SF but otherwise I'd get the LF.
@@The3DPrintingZone thanks for your insight homie, great information in your videos🔥
I'm thinking about buying this for cutting 4-5mm plywood. Should i buy the 2 Pro OR the 2 Pro S2 ? Wich is better for cutting?
To my knowledge, they both use the same laser - a 5500mW diode. You CAN cut 4-5mm ply with it but it's not quick and will require quite a few passes and probably air assist. Cutting 3mm can be difficult with this laser. A Co2 laser will be a lot more powerful for those types of thicknesses.
Hi. Do you have any good recommendation on how to DIY the LED strip setup? Never done that and would wanna include it in my setup too.
Thank you :)
The kits they sell these days make that one of the easier parts, actually. Almost all LED light strips have adhesive backs and you can use a hot glue gun if that's not strong enough. They usually come with either a remote or even a full smart phone integration as well so it's just a matter of plugging it in and then sticking it around the inside of the enclosure. Even if you're not using an enclosure you can rig up something with some coat hangers or boards to give them a place to mount to. Is that the kind of info you're looking for? If not, let me know and I'll do my best to help.
@@The3DPrintingZone Thank you for the answer. I appreciate that.
Can you actually cut it and connect it in parallel? Or those kits are usually meant to be just plugged in as they are?
@@djVania08 You almost always can - check the kit before buying but most come with cut locations all throughout, where you can cut them with scissors and then run a set of wires (usually R,G,B and 12v) for as long as you need to another section. That typically involves soldering but it's still fairly straight forward to do, even with a cheap soldering iron.
@@The3DPrintingZone well, I'll have to test it out. Thanks for the help
your sensor is hyer , due to the extend LED you have in the BOX , switch the LED off would fix this issue , ( I had the same fault and was informed )
@12:20 some of the safety features are a bit… unreliable on my Ortur. For starters I couldn’t even use half the speed they advertise, as the bump protection would trigger on fast acceleration - wouldn’t even show a legible error message. And yes, that even happened when the device was mounted, using completely snug fitting feet, onto a 600x800x20mm sheet of plywood with the rest of my enclosure attached. Tech support’s solution, after weeks of discussions and mostly waiting, was sending instructions how to lower the sensitivity. I‘m fine with that, although it was a pain to get their response.
Much worse, the fire detection is getting triggered by UV light, as in the babycam I repurposed to monitor the cut (nightvision mode uses UV and switches on automatically in low light condition) or even irregularly by my LED room lighting.
Ortur‘s response? Sending instructions on how to disable that fire alarm.
Why would I want to disable that, if it was a chief feature that made me buy the thing?!?
My solution: replacing the LED lights with an incandescent bulb. In addition I lined the machine‘s enclosure with an LED strip, that is set to a warm orange tone - prevents the babycam from switching to night vision and does not trigger the alarm by itself.
Still, on some cuts the alarm went off when the laser passed close by the sensor on the backside of the control unit. Whenever this happens I block the sensor with a piece of cardboard so I don’t need to switch it off entirely.
And when it comes to the emergency stop button… it does stop the machine. However I did have the laser fire upon some freak error, where the button was locked in the off position and the machine decided to switch it on all by itself. I‘m glad I installed a switch that kills power to the whole enclosure. Was meant for convenience but worked as an actual safety feature then =D
Don‘t get me wrong, I like the results the machine gets me, both cutting and engraving 4mm plywood and genuine leather quite easily, but the time and money spent to get their was an issue.
Your points were well presented, none of it was new to me though, unfortunately. I haven’t had the time to get an air assist going and I don’t know if that extra camera to check the underside is really necessary. I just cut at least one pass more than would strictly be necessary and then slightly tap on the pieces, to see if they are moving or not, without moving anything out of zero.
But I agree that the z-axis slider, enclosure, ventilation and eye protection upgrades are essential. Contrary to what you showed here, I built my enclosure with only a single see through (but filtering the laser’s blue light) panel on top, everything else is solid. That way I don‘t need to wear eye protection in the room while the machine is running. Coherent laser light be dangerous, yo!
If I sum up everything I paid to get to the current state, I probably doubled the price of the machine, even without the camera that I had gathering dust anyway.
Thank you for sharing!
6:30 You are a high prof. drilling dude xD
I know, right? Total boss level. ;)
In video you used laser module LU2-4?
Yes, exactly.
What glasses do you use to protect yourself agaist the laser ?
I just use the ones that came with it. I haven’t taken the plunge to buy the nicer ones yet.
@@The3DPrintingZone I read alot about that the ones that usually are shipped with the engravers are not a proper quality in order to protect your eyes well enough. Did you just run the risk?
@@anders9215 Since the laser already has a tinted shroud on it, between that and the glasses I feel comfortable with it. On the forums, most folks are doing the same and I haven’t heard any negative issues as of yet.
when i got my engraver it didn't come with the orange gaurd you have. where can I get one.
I would reach out to Ortur or wherever you bought it. They should definitely come with one, especially if you got the Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro.
"Print at your own risk - I couldn’t get this one to work"
So then what did you use for the Z-axis height adjust?
I was referring to the one that claimed to work with the Pro model. I ended up cutting into the non-pro model version to make it thin enough for the bolts to reach all the way through, which is why my Z-axis adjuster looks cut up. It is :)
@@The3DPrintingZone Do you have the drawings or plans for the 3D print?
I'm interested in buying it, can it be sent to Indonesia?
I just double checked and yes, it ships to Indonesia. Try the link in the description.
hi Cannot find the stl file for the height adjuster please point me in the right derection
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4700006
Hi guys, I heard that ortur launched a new portable diode laser machine called Aufero, the official sub-brand of Ortur Laser Engraver, Do you think it worth to buy? I'm new to the laser, I heard that Aufero is easily to get started. I really want to buy one.
Why is my Z axis adjuster file You linked to opening up in cura at about one tenth the proper size?
You’ll have to take that one up with the author of the file but if you check the comments I think it says you have to increase the scale by 10 X.
@@The3DPrintingZone But where in cura do I do that at?
@@cosmicraysshotsintothelight Select the object, hit the S key and enter the percentage you want to increase it to.
@@The3DPrintingZone Thanks. I guess that S stands for scaling.
Why do you have tape on the flame detector light? If you are trying to disable the flame detector (a must if you are doing cutting because that damned thing sees "fire" every time I try to cut even a 1.5 mm piece of wood) you have to put a piece of tape over the detector on the back of the control panel. Putting tape over the light doesn't do anything except keep you from seeing the light when the fire alarm beeper goes off. Or did I miss something there?
Haha! That makes a lot more sense. For some reason, the tape over the light thing did seem to help but maybe that was my imagination. Yes, I was trying to disable the flame detector because I struggled with it going off too much. Thanks for the tip on how to handle that.
@@The3DPrintingZone haha... Yep, it was a placebo affect. The light bulb controls nothing. There is a little black "bulb" extruded on the rear of the board. That's the sensor. Tape over it. I just got my Otur put together and burning a grid on my board now. Takes about 6 hours just to do the first vertical lines at speed of 4000. Then I've got to do the horizontal tomorrow.
@@The3DPrintingZone I kept getting the alarm even with the sensor covered with blue painter's tape so I got to wondering if there was a sensor in the light also. So like you I covered it for a test. Still got the alarm. Come to find out blue painter's tape is translucent. so with the sun coming in my window (UV triggers it) it was seeing sunlight and shutting off. So I found this code you can type into the console to turn it off (disable the fire alarm). Flame sensor can be disabled by using $261=0 in console. Hope that helps. The new firmware upgrade 1.87 is supposed to have the flame sensor disabled by default now. I just upgraded it today will have to watch it and see if it comes on when the sun it on it.
what screw driver is that? 0:16
It’s a proprietary one from Snapmaker that came as part of their gift box but there are similar ones out there.
that z axis doesnt fit under your enclosure though...
I see your think you taped off the fire alarm. But the thing on top you taped off is the alarm. Not the sensor. The sensor is a black LED on the back facing the laser.
Yeah, I realized that after the fact. Someone else in the comments help me sort it out :)
Hyperactive sensor here also. So i taped it off after seeing your video. But did not work. Hence some more investigation………
Why would you want to maintain the flame? You said that when highlighting the air assist 🤣 you should have burned a hole into the plastic guard with the laser rather than destroying it with a drill bit🤣🛫
Pro tip, buy a laser that does not require any of these accessories. My 90W FSL Titan W\ Autofocus is sooooooooooooooo nice. Expensive, but I didn't have to mess around and mod things.
But you got it from where?
@@cosmicraysshotsintothelight Full Spectrum Laser. When Patrick says 'pro tip' he means "only buy this if you're a professional using it to make money or have $10k you don't need".
@@sjholmesbrown I don't really need a primer on how to buy. If I see a high price point I don't buy it. I don't just buy it anyway because I want to call myself a pro.
I was using laser engravers in industry over ten years ago every day. I know how to make a business doing this type of work. I have $10k I don't need, but I still won't be dropping it on an overpriced laser to boost my ego. I can make multiple passes if I need more cut bell. MORE CUT BELL!