BMW E82 E90 N52 Starter Testing without special tools
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2019
- In this video I show you the process that I normally use on any BMW N52 with a no start no crank. This seems to be the most common failure for this condition and by going straight to the starter you can save alot of time diagnosing other issues. The open runners on the intake manifold are what make this test possible. This car is a 2010 E82 128i however, I have used this to test both e90 3 series cars and a few e60 five series. Hope this video helps.
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I just tested mine out and it was nighttime as well. Testing this out at night sucks if you don't know what to look for but it helps when you're by yourself to easily see if the light turns on or off.
This is one of the best diagnostic videos I’ve seen. Helped me out a lot. Thanks!
Glad I could help.
Thanks. Straight to the point appreciated
Thanks for the Video, I didn't have a wire piercing probe to pierce the white signal wire. Good to know you can clamp on that short wire you showed. Lit right up when I tried starting. Just gotta replace the thing.
All vids should be to the point like this one... Great job!
Sweet vid. Thanks for the knowledge.
Thank you! Super helpful!
Same way i do it was glad it seems like its the best method
I agree... Definitely the easiest way I’ve found on these motors
Good one mate , good way to bypass anything else .. cheers
Mint bro ….Thank you so much straight forward
Video was great thank you 😊
Very helpful...thank you
great video..my key doesnt display on the dash when i put it in slot ..is that bad..i have no crank no start too.
Perfect! Thanks :)
That simple wiper trick, sweet. And here I was going to wait for my gf to get home tonight to crank it over, cheers!
Glad I could help 🤙 hopefully you found your problem.
@@MattDoesStuff17 I did thanks.
After replacing the key, which worked initially, then replaced the ignition switch, bad assumption, I finally tested the ignition switch and EWSII, there was power on both fronts. I then found your video, tested the starter as you did, and voila, it's the starter.
That’s awesome man glad you got it diagnosed
It was dark and couldn't see ...... But you explained it perfectly and straight to the fukn point..... Great video....!
Sometimes you don’t get the best lighting when diagnosing a no start at night in the middle of a parking lot 😅 glad you still liked it though
Thank you, tomorrows project " hopefully " i just got stranded
Thanks for this video it saved my wallet..thank you sir
Very simple and helpful video. I am getting 10.85 v at the brass dot. While the starter shows 12 volts.
Is the drop expected at the solenoid.
Is that sufficient to say thar my starter is bad ?
I think you could contribute the drop to the brass being dirty and a drop between the meter and it… I would go with a starter… you could try to apply 12v directly to the brass strap to be 100%
i should be so lucky...
08 X3 has solid intake, no gaps to stick a screwdriver through
good video though, i'll try to use the same testing method without taking too much apart
Man that sucks good luck… maybe coming in from the bottom might be easier? Never done an X before lemme know how it goes.
@@MattDoesStuff17 i was able to get to it by pulling the airbox and rubber intake tube. did have power to the starter so I pulled the intake manifold to replace it, probably one of the toughest jobs I've done in a while.
@geist built - so if my test light does NOT light up on the solenoid ground when depressing the start button, what does that mean? It lights up when on the 12v wire on the starter...
It should always light up on the big wire and if the “solenoid ground” your referring too is the braided strap from the solenoid to the starter it should get power when the start button is pressed... if not unclip the signal wire off the solenoid and test for power there with the start button pressed
If you find power at the signal wire then it’s a bad solenoid if not it might be a good time to scan the car if you can or test the starter button
@All 4 A Penny please help, I have all dash lights and everything comes on with the key. I have power through the big power cables to starter. I have no power at the braided cable when I push the Start Button?
Gotta check the little cable going into the starter solenoid when pushing the start button could be bad a starter solenoid.
At minute 1:38, if the light doesn't come on, does it mean that there is a problem with the grounding system?
More likely a problem with the power... if it was me I’d start looking at the battery and the wires coming off of it.
Good night. I have a bmw e60 530i m54 engine, and the starter does not turn on the flywheel. I disassembled the starter and tested it out, it works normally. But when I get back in the car, it doesn't turn, I just hear a click, which seems to be from the hitch but it doesn't turn.
Leandro Figueiredo sometimes the starter will work on the bench but has a dead spot on the commutator and when you hit that spot it won’t work or has too high of a resistance to work under load
@@MattDoesStuff17 and how do I solve this?
What would it look like if the starter was good. How would those test results be?
This doesn’t really tell you if the starter is good more just that the rest of the circuit works… if there was a problem before the starter though the test light wouldn’t light up.
So if the light turns on that means that you need a new starter?
Generally speaking yes
Where do I go to next if I don’t have nothing on the signal wire.
I think next I would look into any relays and the starter switch… would have to pull the wiring diagrams to take a look
If the test light turns on as appears to off, how do you know its the starter? I dont get it. Sorry new mechanic. I just replaced battery and still no crank no start. Can it be the starter or the alternator? I got a message saying increased battery discharge every 2 days i dont start my car. I havent started my car in 5 days and thats how the no crank started.
The starter has two leads… the big one is always hot… the solenoid has to receive a signal from the ignition switch to work the starter so at the stater you test for the big constant twelve volt and you test to see if you have a signal from the ignition switch to the starter… if you have that signal going to the starter should have everything it needs to crank… if you don’t get a signal to crank it could be a lots of other possible causes that you would have to start working through
Problem is the starter motor ,not the power supply,,, should have tried tapping it with a long socket extention.common problem.
Oh wow thank you I would have never figured that out
Hey man so i touch the coper wire at the starter the light turn on I didn’t even go insde the car to click start
You need to be positive that your not touching the big red wire and only touching the copper one and if you are 100% sure that you are I would try to pull the signal wire connector off and test it at the connector.
@@MattDoesStuff17 srry im not good with car which one is the signal wire? and i been poking the starter all morning with the light tester now the battey is dead too
The signal wire is the one small wire going to the starter with the plastic connector and metal clip... the big red wire should always be hot and that small wire is only supposed to get power when the button is pushed... if you have constant power at that wire your starter would always be trying to spin
@@MattDoesStuff17 ok thank
So you're saying that if both light up, the starter is bad?
Typically yes
I replace the starter and still won't crank or start just clicks once any ideas
Sounds like at this point the battery is probably dead
@@MattDoesStuff17 I replace the battery ass well idk what else can it be
@@jorarr5174 When you replaced the battery did you register it with the ecu?
@@MattDoesStuff17 no
@@jorarr5174 I would try that and if that doesn’t do it your gonna need to start doing voltage drop tests across the circuit... also might try bench testing the starter
So the starter wasn’t the issue?
Having same exact issue with my e92 335i n55 just hit the ignition and it just clicks one time but won’t turn over
Clayton Valentine the starter was definitely the issue... this video shows how to test to make sure that the starter is receiving power when it should so that you can be sure the starter is actually the issue
@@trickster03000 mines is doing the same how'd u make out ...whats was the issue?
carson mcgill I figured it was starter itself because it just seemed like it locked up or something, problem turned out to be the starter and power wires for the starter
@@trickster03000 I have the same issue.
Isn't a test light a special tool??🤷🤷
Lmao it’s a light bulb with two wires that you can make for free or buy for less than 5 bucks at any auto parts store… if that’s a special tool for you 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Don't do this to your car
Lmao why? Would you prefer they take it to an ase tech and pay them to throw parts at it?