A perfect bullet hole doesn't mean your bow is 100% tuned, that is just a starting point. Did you shoot a bare shaft and a fletched arrow at 20 to make sure they are impacting the same spot (bareshaft tuning)? Did you shoot a broadhead and a fletched field point to make sure they are impacting at the same point (broadhead tuning)? If you didn't, you can get erratic/inconsistent flight with broadheads. Also, you should shoot at least a 3 shot group with each one to see how consistent the flight is. One shot doesn't tell you much. Not trying to be rude, or anything, just trying to help out.
This is good stuff. As a bowhunter, I have the exact same philosophy. If your field points are flying as they should, you should just be able to screw on your broadhead and have it fly to the same point. Over the years I have tried every broadhead you can imagine. And if you want to find the best broadhead for your set up you have to try them just like you are doing. Recently, I've been trying out some of the Chinese knock offs and have had very surprising results. I've discovered that broadhead price has nothing to do with how well they fly and perform. Recently, I've tried the knock offs of the Xecutioner heads, the Swhackers, and the Killzones. I've also shot game crusher broadheads from Barnett. The xecutioner knockoffs fly beautifully. The Swhackers not so much. But the best flying broadhead I have ever shot is the Barnett Gamecrusher. They are about $30.00 for a pack of three. I can't say enough about how well they fly. They are excellent. I don't know about other game, but on whitetails they are perfect. After watching this video I'm going to try the Dirt Nap Alphas and the QAD Exodus. I;ve also seen other reviews that are really positive on these heads. PawPaw thanks for the work you are doing for all Bowhunters
@@iamthepawpaw Thanks. They are great flying heads. I wasn't familiar with them until a buddy of mine gave me one to try. I was blown away with how they flew. I'm 66 years old and have been a bowhunter for over thirty years. I've tried about everything. After I tried the Game Crushers I went out and bought a pack. Walmart has them for about $30. You'll like them.
Cool testing. I shoot NAP HELLRAZOR fixed blade broadhead and the Rage hypodermic no collar out of my Mathews V3X 29. They are my go to broadheads. They fly great out of my bow .
I absolutely agree with you. If you paper tune and your field points are tuned you absolutely should shoot dead on when putting a broadhead on. Learned that this year. Did all that screwed on broadhead and it was perfect.
This is exactly why I wanted to put this out there. We all have such different experiences. None of the broadheads are bad, they all just react differently to our setup and shooting style.
Keep in mind also that if the broadhead doesn't spin true being a fixed head, then it's catching wind uneven and causes planing and twirling. I tried a pack of g5 m3 and 1 of 3 spun true and it flew great and the other 2 that were not spinning true didn't fly well or group well. I'm a magnus fan and a crimson talon cleaver fan and I spin test and shoot every broad head before shooting an animal. I like to sharpen my own and I sight in as well with my broadheads and ignore field points. The wind drag is different from broadheads to field points which can cause more inconsistencies.
That’s great information. Thanks for sharing this. I hope we all share what works for each of us so others can try each method to see what works best for them.
Definitely interesting, I will say I haven’t finished the video yet. But I got the annihilators and shoot the best with them than any other head, straight out of the box. Zero adjustments, no weird flight patterns. Shot the magnus last year, had to make some adjustments for those to shoot well.
That’s exactly why I wanted to do this video. Some of my friends have the same experience. It’s so dependent upon each person’s setup and shooting style.
Ever shot a Valkyrie Jagger or a Short Jag? Especially tough when u get the arrow, insert & head on the Centerpin system all together in unison. Swept blade design & bone breaking power with excellent edge retention. Give them a try. U can get the regular threads or go all the way with the Centerpin system.
The Jagger was designed to shoot off their own steel outsert which is designed with very high tolerances to glue onto a Blackeagle X-Impact shaft. It's called the Viking Centerpin system. For using standard inserts/outserts on standard carbon shafts u can get the Valkyrie Boodeagles & just screw them into standard inserts. But there's a difference. I killed a buck once with a 125 grain G5 Montec. Close to a 300 lb. MN meat buck past it's prime. With a compound with a 125 grain Ethics outsert installed on a very tough 5mm Victory steel/carbon shaft. Impact was right behind the right shoulder but caught the very back of bone on the left side. The arrow snapped right behind the Ethics & the tip on the Montec bent. With a Blackeagle X-Impact fitted with the full Valkyrie Viking Centerpin system a couple of years later I had better FOC & a more rock solid platform. On the ground I shot a declining buck walking through thistles. He stopped with the entrance just in front of the left leg, went through the chest, came out tight behind his right front leg & the arrow buried into a log an inch & a half. It ran very fast for 2 seconds. Turned back my way & walked 25 yards back in my direction, & bedded down. He died in less than 5 seconds. The thistles he ran through were still falling to the ground when he was dead. Arrow & head completed 💯 & easy to make wicked sharp again. When I did my latest arrow build I called Brent Hahn from Valkyrie & ordered the components. This year I'm shooting the same 210 solid Jaggers that I have 9 of. They r on about a total 500 grain setup with a solid 58 grain outsert 400 spine X-Impact with 27% FOC with my new 50 lb. recurve. Brent did all his original testing with early Valkyrie heads using a longbow. He was happy to hear I was setting up my new trad system. If someone finds themselves not being the hunter but the prey to a large critter the Valkyrie which blows through moose & Elk it's what u want to have on u. If u r hunting tight property lines u also want it to cut down the bloodtrail going from yards to feet. 😮. Make sure when u get the Boodeagle broadheads that u order the solid 200 grain ones ir more & don't mess around with the vented. Take care.
Muzzy Trocar and Muzzy Trocar HB are both excellent broadheads and even the old Muzzy 4 is a great broadhead... they fly as close as a field tip as any I've ever shot and are a reasonable price. And no rubber bands. My friend shoots Severe and says they fly good. As long as you take the time to tune your bow properly any head will work. It just depends on what you like 👍
Yup,. it's, the 125 grain, Grim Reaper Micro Hades for My, "Combo Arrow" a Flat shooting, Hard hitting ( with a descent amount of,.. FOC ),.. Deer and Elk arrow !
I agree. If your bow is in tune, pick Broadheads that fly correctly, and don’t change your bow for your broadhead. Annihilators fly terrible at 50 yards and beyond, but single bevel iron wills and VPA’s fly perfect! At 312fps the Annihilators are like throwing a curveball.
Betting on Exodus. Slick Trick Standard will also do very well. Muzzy 3 blades will not fly well enough to hunt past 20 yards but shotgun blast (not group) with the field point in the center
I would also like to point out that a lot of people shoot mechanical heads because they dont tune their bows and its also why many of them fail to work properly. You shoot a good mechanical out of a well tuned rig you will have zero issues
I totally agree. I never understood why you get your bow tuned so perfectly shooting bullets threw paper then go and adjust for broadheads! I do all my own personal tuning and if broadheads don’t shoot field point accuracy at 60yrds then I don’t use them. I personally really like magnus black hornets and tooth of arrow XL. The handful of mechanicals I have shot all shoot perfectly.
I may have missed it but one of the most critical things that gets magnified with a broadhead over a field point is insert/ferrule alignment and concentricity. A field point that's a little off line isn't as bad as a broadhead
I would ask if you tried nock tuning any of the arrows and see how much differently they hit. I get inches of variation if I turn the nock 1/3 of the way around.. I always have to check each arrow like that.
I’ve got a couple points to add to your perfect tune through paper and broadhead should fly straight opinion. Number one we are humans trying to judge a tear through blank paper. It is not possible for a man to look at a paper tear and know without a doubt it is perfectly true. But lets just say it is a perfectly true hole… I agree the broadhead should hit perfect with the field point on one condition, the broadhead is the same length as the field point. Otherwise, if the broadhead is longer you have changed the dynamic spine of the arrow and it WILL act different (not to mention added lift from a fixed head as the arrow is flexing and rotating). So in conclusion….this is why it is necessary to make micro adjustments to the rest to bring your fixed head and field point together as tight as possible. Hitting a 2 or 3 inch circle at 30 yards does not mean that you are actually hitting with the field point either. Food for thought. Appreciate the time you took to test all these broadheads, cool to see a large test group like this.
i like iron will but to spendy, magnus is baller! ive used the stingers for few yeard now and hard to pass on them for the price. 44yds to the lungs on my buck this year with my stinger!
Tooth of the arrow broadheads out of my bow hit same as field point and they pass through more block than anything else and for the price oh lord I have a few
QAD needs to make a 200 grain Magnum with a stronger point. Dead X Broad heads (RIP John Smith) has a 3 blade that may well surpass an Exodus Magnum. Your test was excellent, I like that you elevated the target. Your property is beautiful as well and I am jealous of your hunting plans.
But you’re right. If everything is square. As long as the broadhead is quality and built with the drag it produces in mind you should be able to screw anything on and go into the field
I definitely like the fact that you included in there that you know about all the things you can do to make the broadheads shoot. One thing yoh didn’t mention tho was arrow tuning. Lots of people overlook this step. So. I would be curious to see you take the iron will and screw it on the arrow that the m3 was on when you said it flew funny. That way you know if it’s the head or the arrow. Gotta have a control and make sure all of those arrows are perfect: I would also challenge you to shoot all of those Broadheads multiple times to make sure you are consistently getting the same results and make sure it wasn’t you during those shots. I’m sure you did this anyway but for the sake of the video you didn’t include it for time sake
Good Video but when me and my friends test broadhead we use the same arrow because some arrows may fly just a tad bit different and take at least 3 shots to make suer no human error
Stop looking at arrow and head start looking at your slow slow bow then find the perfect balance of weight and head that works for you to many people think they got to use what hidden valley ranch uses find what works for you
That is not a Magnus Stinger that is a magnus killer bee the Magnus stinger is a vented broadhead which has a larger cutting diameter than the killer bee stinger and we dial in every single broadhead so the point is within .003 thousands of a inch, If you cannot get our broadheads to fly true something is wrong. If you want to send them to us and we inspect we will replace. Thanks
Hey Mike, dang it. I just went through a couple packs I have from y’all. I said the wrong name the whole time. I’ll redo this one specifically. Thank you for reaching out.
Yes, you actually DO experiment with rifle cartridge characteristics to suit the rifle. We change the bullet, powder, primers, even brass in cartridges to improve a rifle’s accuracy or terminal performance. Bend the barrel?? No sir. Archery is the same principle. No 2 heads should EVER fly “the same”- due to potentially different heights, widths, lengths, aerodynamics, rotation, etc. let alone shooter input. Would you expect 2 different bullets to shoot the same hole out of your 270 win mag just because they’re both 150 grain? No. We sometimes get lucky with archery tackle because of the extremely short distances and slower velocities- the small differences in projectile characteristics aren’t usually enough by themselves to observe a measurable difference in point of impact. But just because a head weighs the same, should never mean it will fly the same- even out of a “tuned” bow.
That is articulated exactly how I feel. That is why I try so many different broadheads so that I find the one that impacts as closely as possible to the tune of my field point. Once my bow is tuned I don’t feel right changing the rest, site or nock point to get a broadhead to work. That is the reference to “bending the barrel” for me.
@@iamthepawpaw Yes sir, that’s exactly right. However, some say it’s crazy but I don’t care if it flies with my field points. If you think about it, that’s so arbitrary and irrelevant to the circumstances since we’re changing to a completely different projectile by putting on a broadhead! So I think of it just like a rifle- if I have a broadhead (or bullet) that is true, groups well, and has what I feel has the best terminal performance- I’m sighting in with that for the hunt! Now that’s different from what you hear these days but, it’s very logical and has simplified the whole process.
@@iamthepawpaw I agree that I would not re-tune my bow (rest, cam shim, etc) for one broadhead though. I’m just talking about moving my site for point of impact adjustment. Most recently I had Iron will 175’s fly nice & true but 2” high at 25. No tailwhipping or wobbling, nice efficient arrow flight, just high. Moved the sight. Ready to go. Hope that makes sense
Are you shooting a lens? I’m getting where can’t see at 46 yrs old and wanted to scope my black and gold sights but need clarifier peep etc? What are you running ?
I use a 4X or a 6X depending on the type of shooting I’m going to do. I totally understand the eye thing. However, with the new UV slider, they don’t accept a lens so I am using my glasses and it is different.
Looks like you’re running the RIP TKO’s. Which outserts are you using? I just switched to victory this offseason and have their 50 grain outserts. I haven’t had any issues but I’d like to try something else for comparison. Any reason why you’re not running the victory outserts?
I am running half of the Victory outserts and half of the podium archer 50 gr. Titanium inserts. Trying two different profiles to see if I like one more than the other.
Actually yes, because I know my shot well enough to know if the miss is the shot or the flight. I do understand your point though and if I didn’t have the ability to do it this way, I would definitely do more shooting than just the one shot.
i didnt watch it, but my guess is.... of course, the broadhead with the smallest profile will fly closest to a field point, ANY blades sticking out will add drag, i would never expect a broadhead to fly exactly like a field point, especially at longer distance, as they have totally different profiles and different amounts of wind drag.... just common sense.
You'd be surprised. The widest RamCats have a 1 5/8" diameter and fly better than most smaller diameter heads. Aerodynamics isn't what everyone expects.
@@talonlacy1302 that is because ramcats are a very low profile heads. the blades have some length, but VERY little width, thats why the blade tips get bent back every time you shoot one through a deer. i used ramcats for several years and they did leave some of the best blood trails i have ever seen. but i quit using them because the blades are so thin and flimsy. i like to use the same head for multiple deer. cant reuse ramcats,
Plum a 1 inch piece of tape, down the center of your target. Get your field point to hit dead center, then shoot the broadhead that flys the worst and adjust your rest so both field point and the broadhead hit dead center, do not worry about the same height, after achieving that, then adjust your rest up or down to hit the same hole. Do everything at 7 yards. Repeat this test and show me the results again. You will be surprised.
Unless your broadhead and your field point are exactly the same length, your dynamic spine will not be the same. If you tune your bow for field points then add a broadhead that is 0.5” longer, your spine changes every time
How are you tuning prior to shooting your broadhead? This is my first video of yours to watch. I agree but just so everyone is on the same page you’re not just paper tuning and then throwing a broadhead on? I shoot iron will as well and after getting a bare shaft and fletch arrow to hit together my broadheads are good to go.
Absolutely I agree. My process: Set bow in time, square rest and level. Bareshaft tune, nock tune if needed through paper. Bareshaft out to 20 Fletch and verify through paper. 95% of the time this is golden. Screw on various broadheads to see which group with field points. I will not move my rest to accommodate a Broadhead
@@iamthepawpaw I got to where I only shoot through paper to make sure it’s close. I’m far from a pro but watching several pro shooters go over their tuning have said that the bare shaft arrow hitting within an inch of your fletched arrow at 20 yards is easier and just as accurate. Have you tried that? What do you think? If I shoot a broadhead that is off I follow it with a bare shaft to make sure. I’ve been hunting for 20 years but I just bought a new bow. I’ve never shot a bow made after 2000. 😂 this new thing, let-off, is different!! I tend to torque worse than I did before so if my bare shaft hits with the broadhead then it was me.
Your video appeared on my feed. It's a nice overall video. I have a couple of opinions / comments about the test. It would be better if you repeated the shots for 2 or 3 shots of each broadhead to catch the trend of each broadhead. That would eliminate the idea of it being a shot that was slightly off vs. the broadhead. You might have done this off camera and not stated it. Watching the video, I'm thinking your bow is just a little out of tune, so the test was more about which broadhead is more forgiving, which is also great to know and get confidence in. To me, the bow being just a touch out of tune is evident with the ones that missed. The trend overall is that your broadheads were missing high. If you examined closely, I would guess you have a slight nock low, point high tear. It's more evident in the broadheads that have higher surface area in the horizontal plane. The grizzly stick samurai is an example of this. When you nocked it, I am pretty sure the blade is parallel with the ground. Since your bow has a point high tear, that samurai planes just a bit up and hits high. I would bet if you took that same broadhead, and had it facing vertically, then it would hit dead nuts. I went back and tried to see how some of the others nocked, but the camera angle or lighting didn't always make that possible. I know you said you didn't want to have to mess with the setup to get the broadhead to fly good...that you would just put the more forgiving ones in the quiver, and I think that is perfectly fine. I would bet that if you took one of the ones that were marginal / slightly off but were not terribly off with, and microtuned your rest to get it hitting with field points, then the other ones that were money would still be money, your ones that were terrible would be improved, and the most if not all the ones that were marginal would now be money. I haven't shot all the broadheads you tested, but I've shot quite a few of them. The 125 grain stinger buzzcut for me is the one that shows an out of tune bow the most because of how much surface area the blade has. I used to shoot 100 grains and that same broadhead in 100 grains has much less surface area and for me was more forgiving. When I'm broadhead tuning, if I can get the 125 grain stinger buzzcut to shoot good at all distances and no matter the orientation it sits when nocked, then I know I'm money with anything but the worst flying broadheads. Good luck this season.
Wow, thank you for this feedback. I’ll definitely shoot them a couple times again next go around. I can tell you that I checked timing and paper tuned at 6 feet with perfect bullet holes. My whole premise was that it just doesn’t make sense to get everything perfect then start changing it just for a broadhead. I have almost always had great results from the magnus so that was a bit surprising to me. Finally, I shot the broadheads I kept out to 80 yards and was pleased with their accuracy so it worked for me.
@@iamthepawpaw I don’t make content but I did a similar thing where I was testing which vanes steer the best by taking my bow just a little out of tune vertically and put broadheads on to see which vanes kept the broadheads close to my field points. Used a few different broadheads which also pointed out which broadheads I have are the most forgiving relative to each other. Your test got you some heads that work great with that setup out to long distance, so great job. Good luck on all those hunts.
not very thought out ..the same weight broadhead is at least twice as long as a field tip hence your forward of center balance point changes so will not just follow as you state. that is why you adjust your bow to the broadhead. think this through
I like this but I don’t agree. I see a lot of different ways for very valid reasons to achieve what we all want. And that is great flight and lethality. This video is just my personal opinion.
Why not shoot the 100 grn Broadheads like 80-90% of all hunters? Your bow is tuned for the Heads you like! I have shot for yrs with NAP Broadheads from the Thunderhead 125s to 100s to Spitire 2-blades to Spitfire 3 blades to Now the NAP Doube Cross! Now after many yrs an 65 yrs old and useing a Excalibur Matrix 405 recurve crossbow!
I was testing Nap Thunderheads and montec G4s. The thunderheads were all over the place even from 20 yards. The G4s flew fantastic. No matter what I did with the the Thunderheads I couldn't get them to fly consistent.
@@iamthepawpawPrecision machined out of a single piece of high carbon steel. There is no slop like you get with replaceable blade broadheads. Field point accuracy is what you get. They also offer top tier penetration.
@@iamthepawpawif both bows were only paper tuned then that's why. Paper tune is just the first step brother. Unless you just want to buy a bunch of broad heads and see which ones fly best.
I switched to a thumb release and have thought to try to lengthen it but I shave been too lazy. I agree that I should at least try it. Great idea for some content too. Thank you
Watched video about month ago 3 different guys who listened to ranch sauce years ago have since backed off there 698 grain arrows and single bevel heads and found what they kill with which turned out to be 498 to 503 total grain set up down from ranch’s over 600 grain arrow he had them shooting 2 of the guys use mechanical heads one still uses fixed but brings a mechanical arrow with him find what works for you try a sevr broad head it’s as tough as any fix out there period these days you have to stay away from names like rage and mega meat they cut but are aluminum heads first deer it’s trash sevr heads can take a lick and keep on ticking trust me but a lot guys like rage and g5 mega meats ok
I like what ur doing but honestly this test means nothing. Because maybe you shoot a lil low and left you say the broadhead shot low and left but it's mostly you doing it not the broadheads of course unless one does something crazy. Not busting ur balls this is just not scientific at all if you will. But thanks for ur time showing us a bunch of cool heads. To prove this ur bow is set up for iron wills and they shot the best. The same would happen for every other head so then that one would be the best .
It’s hard to take an accuracy test serious when you punching the trigger. Probably learn to shoot your bow better before giving your opinion on which broadheads fly true
Not to sound like a "arse" but your opinion is wrong. Even when a bow is tuned, cams timed, etc, in theory, yes, your broadheads should stack with your field points. Unfortunately, each fixed head has a different surface area. Once you start changing the surface area, is where physics take over. Which is where broadhead tuning comes into play.
Didn’t watch the whole thing,, this type of comparison needs the shooter replaced with a robot that shoots exactly the same every time, then the results become usable and not luck or shooter error,,,🤷♂️
The hunter is a vital part of what he refers to as “your set up” . Ever heard of torque tuning or wonder why you can’t just pick someone’s else’s bow up and shoot the same? A machine will actually misguide you in a lot of ways a lot more than you will. Wasn’t a which broadhead is the best of 23 , it was a which broadhead works best for ME video not a machine.
My question is when your field point hit way off it was you but when a broadhead don't hit in the center it's not you it's the broadhead lol
I thought about reshooting the field point but I thought the honest view would be better. I am a knucklehead for sure.
That’s not a question….
100% if the control arrow doesn't hit the X. It just shows margin of error.
Good luck 👍
Science
Seems to me the broadheads that shot high would be the most consistent with the field point since that’s where the field point hit.
Boy, he made sure he wasn't getting fletching contact with his favorite, lol.
A perfect bullet hole doesn't mean your bow is 100% tuned, that is just a starting point. Did you shoot a bare shaft and a fletched arrow at 20 to make sure they are impacting the same spot (bareshaft tuning)? Did you shoot a broadhead and a fletched field point to make sure they are impacting at the same point (broadhead tuning)?
If you didn't, you can get erratic/inconsistent flight with broadheads. Also, you should shoot at least a 3 shot group with each one to see how consistent the flight is. One shot doesn't tell you much.
Not trying to be rude, or anything, just trying to help out.
You said exactly what I was thinking
We appreciate you taking the time to give constructive feedback! Thanks!
Good to see a fellow MFJJ archer ... Love the Podium Archery titanium inserts and field points! Great content! Thank you
Thanks for watching!
This is good stuff. As a bowhunter, I have the exact same philosophy. If your field points are flying as they should, you should just be able to screw on your broadhead and have it fly to the same point. Over the years I have tried every broadhead you can imagine. And if you want to find the best broadhead for your set up you have to try them just like you are doing. Recently, I've been trying out some of the Chinese knock offs and have had very surprising results. I've discovered that broadhead price has nothing to do with how well they fly and perform. Recently, I've tried the knock offs of the Xecutioner heads, the Swhackers, and the Killzones. I've also shot game crusher broadheads from Barnett. The xecutioner knockoffs fly beautifully. The Swhackers not so much. But the best flying broadhead I have ever shot is the Barnett Gamecrusher. They are about $30.00 for a pack of three. I can't say enough about how well they fly. They are excellent. I don't know about other game, but on whitetails they are perfect. After watching this video I'm going to try the Dirt Nap Alphas and the QAD Exodus. I;ve also seen other reviews that are really positive on these heads. PawPaw thanks for the work you are doing for all Bowhunters
Thank you so much for the input. I appreciate the fact that you took the time to share this with me. I’m going to try out those Barnett broadheads.
@@iamthepawpaw Thanks. They are great flying heads. I wasn't familiar with them until a buddy of mine gave me one to try. I was blown away with how they flew. I'm 66 years old and have been a bowhunter for over thirty years. I've tried about everything. After I tried the Game Crushers I went out and bought a pack. Walmart has them for about $30. You'll like them.
Very interesting…thanks for sharing. I really like the exodus for the price and the blades can be easily changed out in the field 👌🏻
Cool testing. I shoot NAP HELLRAZOR fixed blade broadhead and the Rage hypodermic no collar out of my Mathews V3X 29. They are my go to broadheads. They fly great out of my bow .
I absolutely agree with you. If you paper tune and your field points are tuned you absolutely should shoot dead on when putting a broadhead on. Learned that this year. Did all that screwed on broadhead and it was perfect.
Sweet!
Montec always flies crazy
Annihilator is the most accurate fixed ive shot
This is exactly why I wanted to put this out there. We all have such different experiences. None of the broadheads are bad, they all just react differently to our setup and shooting style.
Keep in mind also that if the broadhead doesn't spin true being a fixed head, then it's catching wind uneven and causes planing and twirling. I tried a pack of g5 m3 and 1 of 3 spun true and it flew great and the other 2 that were not spinning true didn't fly well or group well. I'm a magnus fan and a crimson talon cleaver fan and I spin test and shoot every broad head before shooting an animal. I like to sharpen my own and I sight in as well with my broadheads and ignore field points. The wind drag is different from broadheads to field points which can cause more inconsistencies.
That’s great information. Thanks for sharing this. I hope we all share what works for each of us so others can try each method to see what works best for them.
Definitely interesting, I will say I haven’t finished the video yet. But I got the annihilators and shoot the best with them than any other head, straight out of the box. Zero adjustments, no weird flight patterns. Shot the magnus last year, had to make some adjustments for those to shoot well.
That’s exactly why I wanted to do this video. Some of my friends have the same experience. It’s so dependent upon each person’s setup and shooting style.
I've always had great results with g5 deadmeat and megameat, Amazing broadheads
You’re the second one to recommend the mega meat. I’m going to have to try them.
The megameat or deadmeat both are great.
Ever shot a Valkyrie Jagger or a Short Jag? Especially tough when u get the arrow, insert & head on the Centerpin system all together in unison. Swept blade design & bone breaking power with excellent edge retention. Give them a try. U can get the regular threads or go all the way with the Centerpin system.
@@josephtreadlightly5686 I have not. But it will now be on my list.
The Jagger was designed to shoot off their own steel outsert which is designed with very high tolerances to glue onto a Blackeagle X-Impact shaft. It's called the Viking Centerpin system. For using standard inserts/outserts on standard carbon shafts u can get the Valkyrie Boodeagles & just screw them into standard inserts. But there's a difference. I killed a buck once with a 125 grain G5 Montec. Close to a 300 lb. MN meat buck past it's prime. With a compound with a 125 grain Ethics outsert installed on a very tough 5mm Victory steel/carbon shaft. Impact was right behind the right shoulder but caught the very back of bone on the left side. The arrow snapped right behind the Ethics & the tip on the Montec bent. With a Blackeagle X-Impact fitted with the full Valkyrie Viking Centerpin system a couple of years later I had better FOC & a more rock solid platform. On the ground I shot a declining buck walking through thistles. He stopped with the entrance just in front of the left leg, went through the chest, came out tight behind his right front leg & the arrow buried into a log an inch & a half. It ran very fast for 2 seconds. Turned back my way & walked 25 yards back in my direction, & bedded down. He died in less than 5 seconds. The thistles he ran through were still falling to the ground when he was dead. Arrow & head completed 💯 & easy to make wicked sharp again.
When I did my latest arrow build I called Brent Hahn from Valkyrie & ordered the components. This year I'm shooting the same 210 solid Jaggers that I have 9 of. They r on about a total 500 grain setup with a solid 58 grain outsert 400 spine X-Impact with 27% FOC with my new 50 lb. recurve. Brent did all his original testing with early Valkyrie heads using a longbow. He was happy to hear I was setting up my new trad system.
If someone finds themselves not being the hunter but the prey to a large critter the Valkyrie which blows through moose & Elk it's what u want to have on u. If u r hunting tight property lines u also want it to cut down the bloodtrail going from yards to feet. 😮.
Make sure when u get the Boodeagle broadheads that u order the solid 200 grain ones ir more & don't mess around with the vented. Take care.
Good show and test.
Michael
Thank you
Muzzy Trocar and Muzzy Trocar HB are both excellent broadheads and even the old Muzzy 4 is a great broadhead... they fly as close as a field tip as any I've ever shot and are a reasonable price. And no rubber bands. My friend shoots Severe and says they fly good. As long as you take the time to tune your bow properly any head will work. It just depends on what you like 👍
The muzzy Trocar HB Ti is amazing I have taking deer with it and blood wasn’t a problem
Grim reaper did not disappoint on yet another testing video.
Right on! This video shows it in action:
th-cam.com/video/m58xkhvXSu8/w-d-xo.html
Yup,. it's, the 125 grain, Grim Reaper Micro Hades for My, "Combo Arrow" a Flat shooting, Hard hitting ( with a descent amount of,.. FOC ),.. Deer and Elk arrow !
I agree. If your bow is in tune, pick Broadheads that fly correctly, and don’t change your bow for your broadhead. Annihilators fly terrible at 50 yards and beyond, but single bevel iron wills and VPA’s fly perfect! At 312fps the Annihilators are like throwing a curveball.
Well said!
Betting on Exodus. Slick Trick Standard will also do very well. Muzzy 3 blades will not fly well enough to hunt past 20 yards but shotgun blast (not group) with the field point in the center
Annihilator have been working great with my f.o.c setup....this year already have 3 harvest on 1 broadhead
That’s awesome. My point exactly. Some broadheads fly better with different set ups.
I’m with you, iron will and magnus black hornet 2 blades for sure flight like my field points.
I would also like to point out that a lot of people shoot mechanical heads because they dont tune their bows and its also why many of them fail to work properly. You shoot a good mechanical out of a well tuned rig you will have zero issues
3 blade Muzzy. Tried and true. I don't need to experiment with anything else.
Man, if they fly right, they are good ones!
TOOTH OF THE ARROW, AND STINGER'S 2 BLADE THATS MY GUESS
One minute in, I say amen. That’s what’s up.
Thank you
I totally agree. I never understood why you get your bow tuned so perfectly shooting bullets threw paper then go and adjust for broadheads! I do all my own personal tuning and if broadheads don’t shoot field point accuracy at 60yrds then I don’t use them. I personally really like magnus black hornets and tooth of arrow XL. The handful of mechanicals I have shot all shoot perfectly.
Thank you. I totally agree.
Tooth of the arrow
I may have missed it but one of the most critical things that gets magnified with a broadhead over a field point is insert/ferrule alignment and concentricity. A field point that's a little off line isn't as bad as a broadhead
I take a lot of time to square the arrows and spin test them with the insert in. That’s the only way I’ve learned to try to follow what you’re saying.
The most accurate fixed blade broadhead and winner wasn't invited...B3 DESTRUKT. And its deadly sharp with more efficient cutting curved blades.
I’m going to have to try it.
I would ask if you tried nock tuning any of the arrows and see how much differently they hit. I get inches of variation if I turn the nock 1/3 of the way around.. I always have to check each arrow like that.
Actually all my arrows are nock tuned. I get ocd when I’m building them.
I’ve got a couple points to add to your perfect tune through paper and broadhead should fly straight opinion. Number one we are humans trying to judge a tear through blank paper. It is not possible for a man to look at a paper tear and know without a doubt it is perfectly true. But lets just say it is a perfectly true hole… I agree the broadhead should hit perfect with the field point on one condition, the broadhead is the same length as the field point. Otherwise, if the broadhead is longer you have changed the dynamic spine of the arrow and it WILL act different (not to mention added lift from a fixed head as the arrow is flexing and rotating). So in conclusion….this is why it is necessary to make micro adjustments to the rest to bring your fixed head and field point together as tight as possible. Hitting a 2 or 3 inch circle at 30 yards does not mean that you are actually hitting with the field point either. Food for thought. Appreciate the time you took to test all these broadheads, cool to see a large test group like this.
Thank you for the reply. I think next time we will get a hooter shooter and take the “human” factor out.
i like iron will but to spendy, magnus is baller! ive used the stingers for few yeard now and hard to pass on them for the price. 44yds to the lungs on my buck this year with my stinger!
MAGNUS...FREE FOR LIFE AFTER PURCHASE!!!! Nuff said!
Stingers for 280 plus...Hornet for 280 minus! FPS
Tooth of the arrow broadheads out of my bow hit same as field point and they pass through more block than anything else and for the price oh lord I have a few
Love this! I am always amazed by how good some broadheads fly.
Ramcats and Qads are hard to beat for 3 blade fixed heads
I have yet to have to broadhead tune. Shooting qad exodus 125gr, only shooting to 60 yards but broadhead always groups with field points
Those things work great on every set up I’ve ever had
QAD needs to make a 200 grain Magnum with a stronger point.
Dead X Broad heads (RIP John Smith) has a 3 blade that may well surpass an Exodus Magnum.
Your test was excellent, I like that you elevated the target. Your property is beautiful as well and I am jealous of your hunting plans.
Thank you for the input.
Great content, thanks for sharing !
Glad you enjoyed it!
But you’re right. If everything is square. As long as the broadhead is quality and built with the drag it produces in mind you should be able to screw anything on and go into the field
Thanks!
I definitely like the fact that you included in there that you know about all the things you can do to make the broadheads shoot. One thing yoh didn’t mention tho was arrow tuning. Lots of people overlook this step. So. I would be curious to see you take the iron will and screw it on the arrow that the m3 was on when you said it flew funny. That way you know if it’s the head or the arrow. Gotta have a control and make sure all of those arrows are perfect: I would also challenge you to shoot all of those Broadheads multiple times to make sure you are consistently getting the same results and make sure it wasn’t you during those shots. I’m sure you did this anyway but for the sake of the video you didn’t include it for time sake
That’s an excellent point. I had already shot all those arrows and took the ones that weren’t great out of the quiver.
Good Video but when me and my friends test broadhead we use the same arrow because some arrows may fly just a tad bit different and take at least 3 shots to make suer no human error
Yeah. I picked three arrows that flew the best but you are right. It would have taken 3 days for that video lol.
Hello which axcel sight is that plz? And just so you know this video makes so much sense to me. I will definitely be doing this method.
It’s the Accel Landslide 5 pin. And thank you for the feedback.
Stop looking at arrow and head start looking at your slow slow bow then find the perfect balance of weight and head that works for you to many people think they got to use what hidden valley ranch uses find what works for you
That is not a Magnus Stinger that is a magnus killer bee the Magnus stinger is a vented broadhead which has a larger cutting diameter than the killer bee stinger and we dial in every single broadhead so the point is within .003 thousands of a inch, If you cannot get our broadheads to fly true something is wrong. If you want to send them to us and we inspect we will replace. Thanks
Hey Mike, dang it. I just went through a couple packs I have from y’all. I said the wrong name the whole time. I’ll redo this one specifically. Thank you for reaching out.
Dirt Nap did not penetrate enough on Cape buffalo in Africa. Broadside at 30 yards.
That’s a bummer.
Compound Bow
No x bow results, nice vid tho for Bows
Thank you.
There is a massive amount of useful information in these comments.
Yes, you actually DO experiment with rifle cartridge characteristics to suit the rifle. We change the bullet, powder, primers, even brass in cartridges to improve a rifle’s accuracy or terminal performance. Bend the barrel?? No sir.
Archery is the same principle. No 2 heads should EVER fly “the same”- due to potentially different heights, widths, lengths, aerodynamics, rotation, etc. let alone shooter input. Would you expect 2 different bullets to shoot the same hole out of your 270 win mag just because they’re both 150 grain? No.
We sometimes get lucky with archery tackle because of the extremely short distances and slower velocities- the small differences in projectile characteristics aren’t usually enough by themselves to observe a measurable difference in point of impact.
But just because a head weighs the same, should never mean it will fly the same- even out of a “tuned” bow.
That is articulated exactly how I feel. That is why I try so many different broadheads so that I find the one that impacts as closely as possible to the tune of my field point. Once my bow is tuned I don’t feel right changing the rest, site or nock point to get a broadhead to work. That is the reference to “bending the barrel” for me.
@@iamthepawpaw Yes sir, that’s exactly right. However, some say it’s crazy but I don’t care if it flies with my field points. If you think about it, that’s so arbitrary and irrelevant to the circumstances since we’re changing to a completely different projectile by putting on a broadhead!
So I think of it just like a rifle- if I have a broadhead (or bullet) that is true, groups well, and has what I feel has the best terminal performance- I’m sighting in with that for the hunt! Now that’s different from what you hear these days but, it’s very logical and has simplified the whole process.
@@iamthepawpaw I agree that I would not re-tune my bow (rest, cam shim, etc) for one broadhead though. I’m just talking about moving my site for point of impact adjustment. Most recently I had Iron will 175’s fly nice & true but 2” high at 25. No tailwhipping or wobbling, nice efficient arrow flight, just high. Moved the sight. Ready to go. Hope that makes sense
Are you shooting a lens? I’m getting where can’t see at 46 yrs old and wanted to scope my black and gold sights but need clarifier peep etc? What are you running ?
I use a 4X or a 6X depending on the type of shooting I’m going to do. I totally understand the eye thing. However, with the new UV slider, they don’t accept a lens so I am using my glasses and it is different.
False premise….bullethole in paper does not necessarily equate to a perfectly tuned bow.
What lens are you running, 2x, 3x, 4x ? I would not think going over 4x magnification would be beneficial in a hunting application.
On the Spot Hogg I typically run a 2x. My eyes aren’t as good as they used to be.
Montec and Magnus are hard to been for good flight for me.
Looks like you’re running the RIP TKO’s. Which outserts are you using? I just switched to victory this offseason and have their 50 grain outserts. I haven’t had any issues but I’d like to try something else for comparison. Any reason why you’re not running the victory outserts?
I am running half of the Victory outserts and half of the podium archer 50 gr. Titanium inserts. Trying two different profiles to see if I like one more than the other.
So you think your shooting is good enough to shoot each broadhead once and tell me how accurate they are I don't think so
Actually yes, because I know my shot well enough to know if the miss is the shot or the flight. I do understand your point though and if I didn’t have the ability to do it this way, I would definitely do more shooting than just the one shot.
Do you have a magnifying glass on your sight?
Yes sir. I usually have a 2x or 4x because my eyes are not as good as they used to be. 😎
Seems that every arrow shot at the top dot went high. Including the field point.
I’ll have to check that out.
you should try ramcat hydroshocks
Will do
i didnt watch it, but my guess is.... of course, the broadhead with the smallest profile will fly closest to a field point, ANY blades sticking out will add drag, i would never expect a broadhead to fly exactly like a field point, especially at longer distance, as they have totally different profiles and different amounts of wind drag.... just common sense.
You'd be surprised. The widest RamCats have a 1 5/8" diameter and fly better than most smaller diameter heads. Aerodynamics isn't what everyone expects.
@@talonlacy1302 that is because ramcats are a very low profile heads. the blades have some length, but VERY little width, thats why the blade tips get bent back every time you shoot one through a deer. i used ramcats for several years and they did leave some of the best blood trails i have ever seen. but i quit using them because the blades are so thin and flimsy. i like to use the same head for multiple deer. cant reuse ramcats,
M3 were not good out of my new bowtech
Plum a 1 inch piece of tape, down the center of your target.
Get your field point to hit dead center, then shoot the broadhead that flys the worst and adjust your rest so both field point and the broadhead hit dead center, do not worry about the same height, after achieving that, then adjust your rest up or down to hit the same hole.
Do everything at 7 yards.
Repeat this test and show me the results again.
You will be surprised.
That was my whole premise. I don’t think you should change the bow to the arrow. Just my thoughts.
Unless your broadhead and your field point are exactly the same length, your dynamic spine will not be the same. If you tune your bow for field points then add a broadhead that is 0.5” longer, your spine changes every time
I agree but there are certain broad heads that will fly true on certain set ups. That’s just my experience and very unprofessional opinion. 😎
How are you tuning prior to shooting your broadhead? This is my first video of yours to watch. I agree but just so everyone is on the same page you’re not just paper tuning and then throwing a broadhead on? I shoot iron will as well and after getting a bare shaft and fletch arrow to hit together my broadheads are good to go.
Absolutely I agree.
My process:
Set bow in time, square rest and level.
Bareshaft tune, nock tune if needed through paper.
Bareshaft out to 20
Fletch and verify through paper. 95% of the time this is golden.
Screw on various broadheads to see which group with field points.
I will not move my rest to accommodate a Broadhead
@@iamthepawpaw I got to where I only shoot through paper to make sure it’s close. I’m far from a pro but watching several pro shooters go over their tuning have said that the bare shaft arrow hitting within an inch of your fletched arrow at 20 yards is easier and just as accurate. Have you tried that? What do you think?
If I shoot a broadhead that is off I follow it with a bare shaft to make sure. I’ve been hunting for 20 years but I just bought a new bow. I’ve never shot a bow made after 2000. 😂 this new thing, let-off, is different!! I tend to torque worse than I did before so if my bare shaft hits with the broadhead then it was me.
@@chrisunruh6485 that’s me too. I am a torque machine.
Agreed 👍
Thanks for the feedback.
TOTA hit a half inch high and you threw them out like they was the m3 lol
I personally have never had an issue with broadhead flight.
That’s awesome!
Try using the same arrow for all of them and see what happened
I will. See if they act differently.
What release are you using? It looks good
Ultra View Thumb. It’s awesome
Your video appeared on my feed. It's a nice overall video. I have a couple of opinions / comments about the test.
It would be better if you repeated the shots for 2 or 3 shots of each broadhead to catch the trend of each broadhead. That would eliminate the idea of it being a shot that was slightly off vs. the broadhead. You might have done this off camera and not stated it.
Watching the video, I'm thinking your bow is just a little out of tune, so the test was more about which broadhead is more forgiving, which is also great to know and get confidence in. To me, the bow being just a touch out of tune is evident with the ones that missed. The trend overall is that your broadheads were missing high. If you examined closely, I would guess you have a slight nock low, point high tear. It's more evident in the broadheads that have higher surface area in the horizontal plane. The grizzly stick samurai is an example of this. When you nocked it, I am pretty sure the blade is parallel with the ground. Since your bow has a point high tear, that samurai planes just a bit up and hits high. I would bet if you took that same broadhead, and had it facing vertically, then it would hit dead nuts. I went back and tried to see how some of the others nocked, but the camera angle or lighting didn't always make that possible.
I know you said you didn't want to have to mess with the setup to get the broadhead to fly good...that you would just put the more forgiving ones in the quiver, and I think that is perfectly fine. I would bet that if you took one of the ones that were marginal / slightly off but were not terribly off with, and microtuned your rest to get it hitting with field points, then the other ones that were money would still be money, your ones that were terrible would be improved, and the most if not all the ones that were marginal would now be money.
I haven't shot all the broadheads you tested, but I've shot quite a few of them. The 125 grain stinger buzzcut for me is the one that shows an out of tune bow the most because of how much surface area the blade has. I used to shoot 100 grains and that same broadhead in 100 grains has much less surface area and for me was more forgiving. When I'm broadhead tuning, if I can get the 125 grain stinger buzzcut to shoot good at all distances and no matter the orientation it sits when nocked, then I know I'm money with anything but the worst flying broadheads.
Good luck this season.
Wow, thank you for this feedback. I’ll definitely shoot them a couple times again next go around.
I can tell you that I checked timing and paper tuned at 6 feet with perfect bullet holes.
My whole premise was that it just doesn’t make sense to get everything perfect then start changing it just for a broadhead.
I have almost always had great results from the magnus so that was a bit surprising to me.
Finally, I shot the broadheads I kept out to 80 yards and was pleased with their accuracy so it worked for me.
@@iamthepawpaw
I don’t make content but I did a similar thing where I was testing which vanes steer the best by taking my bow just a little out of tune vertically and put broadheads on to see which vanes kept the broadheads close to my field points. Used a few different broadheads which also pointed out which broadheads I have are the most forgiving relative to each other. Your test got you some heads that work great with that setup out to long distance, so great job. Good luck on all those hunts.
Wonder what would happen if all the TH-cam archers did this same test...
Be interesting
For sure! Thanks for watching!
not very thought out ..the same weight broadhead is at least twice as long as a field tip hence your forward of center balance point changes so will not just follow as you state. that is why you adjust your bow to the broadhead. think this through
I like this but I don’t agree. I see a lot of different ways for very valid reasons to achieve what we all want. And that is great flight and lethality. This video is just my personal opinion.
No VPA broadheads?
There are some in the 2024 test. Here's a link!
th-cam.com/video/zKHTGbGlaOg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching!
Need annhialator vs sik f3
Id get away from sik..
I’ve never seen the sim F3 so I’ll have to check that one out.
Why not shoot the 100 grn Broadheads like 80-90% of all hunters? Your bow is tuned for the Heads you like! I have shot for yrs with NAP Broadheads from the Thunderhead 125s to 100s to Spitire 2-blades to Spitfire 3 blades to Now the NAP Doube Cross! Now after many yrs an 65 yrs old and useing a Excalibur Matrix 405 recurve crossbow!
Slick Trick standards
I'm throwing swhackers and they fly great; even at 375 fps from a cheater bow
100% agree. If your bow is tuned then I want my broadhead to fly straight. I found some nap 3 blade mechanical heads that fly great.
I was going to try them
I was testing Nap Thunderheads and montec G4s. The thunderheads were all over the place even from 20 yards. The G4s flew fantastic. No matter what I did with the the Thunderheads I couldn't get them to fly consistent.
Tooth of the Arrow
Gonna have to try these guys. A lot of people are saying that they are good.
@@iamthepawpawPrecision machined out of a single piece of high carbon steel. There is no slop like you get with replaceable blade broadheads. Field point accuracy is what you get. They also offer top tier penetration.
Shwacker
Going to use them soon.
I won annihilator 125's. Of course I would win the shitty ones lol haven't shot yet.
Hey, they seriously are good broadheads, just my setup pushes them out funky. I have friends who swear by them.
@@iamthepawpaw yeah I shot one today & it flew great out of that Xpedition SMOKE!!!
Annihilator best
Iron will broke twice,stay away from them Qad for me
I had one break on a bull elk leg bone. They were really helpful and sent me a replacement. I can’t get over how sharp they are and how true they fly.
Change the arrow dynamics of the arrow you can’t expect the same results just common sense
Bareshaft tune and you will get 99% of broadheads to hit with fieldpoints
I don’t have that experience. It’s strange because a broadhead that flew true out of last years now doesn’t from this years bow.
@@iamthepawpaw did you bareshaft tune ...having a bareshaft and fletcher hot together should eliminate any issues
@@iamthepawpawif both bows were only paper tuned then that's why. Paper tune is just the first step brother. Unless you just want to buy a bunch of broad heads and see which ones fly best.
I think your draw its too short ,at least half a inch (personal opinion)
I switched to a thumb release and have thought to try to lengthen it but I shave been too lazy. I agree that I should at least try it. Great idea for some content too. Thank you
You should try cutthroat broads heads
Going to definitely try them.
Lol. Fixed blades don’t shoot like field tips
Right, but if you’re going to use a fixed blade, it’s nice to feel confident.
Watched video about month ago 3 different guys who listened to ranch sauce years ago have since backed off there 698 grain arrows and single bevel heads and found what they kill with which turned out to be 498 to 503 total grain set up down from ranch’s over 600 grain arrow he had them shooting 2 of the guys use mechanical heads one still uses fixed but brings a mechanical arrow with him find what works for you try a sevr broad head it’s as tough as any fix out there period these days you have to stay away from names like rage and mega meat they cut but are aluminum heads first deer it’s trash sevr heads can take a lick and keep on ticking trust me but a lot guys like rage and g5 mega meats ok
I like what ur doing but honestly this test means nothing. Because maybe you shoot a lil low and left you say the broadhead shot low and left but it's mostly you doing it not the broadheads of course unless one does something crazy. Not busting ur balls this is just not scientific at all if you will. But thanks for ur time showing us a bunch of cool heads. To prove this ur bow is set up for iron wills and they shot the best. The same would happen for every other head so then that one would be the best .
I am actually about to do another round with a new setup. The input is always appreciated.
It’s hard to take an accuracy test serious when you punching the trigger. Probably learn to shoot your bow better before giving your opinion on which broadheads fly true
Thanks for the heads up! This has been very helpful.
I'm sorry but it's killing me you saying the broadhead shot high no it didn't you shot high
Imagine what he says when he makes a bad shot on a deer
Exodus
I got some to try
Not to sound like a "arse" but your opinion is wrong. Even when a bow is tuned, cams timed, etc, in theory, yes, your broadheads should stack with your field points. Unfortunately, each fixed head has a different surface area. Once you start changing the surface area, is where physics take over. Which is where broadhead tuning comes into play.
This is great. If we all share our experiences and opinions, that makes us more open to the information out there. Thank you for this.
Didn’t watch the whole thing,, this type of comparison needs the shooter replaced with a robot that shoots exactly the same every time, then the results become usable and not luck or shooter error,,,🤷♂️
Bear has been poked. Lol
The hunter is a vital part of what he refers to as “your set up” . Ever heard of torque tuning or wonder why you can’t just pick someone’s else’s bow up and shoot the same? A machine will actually misguide you in a lot of ways a lot more than you will. Wasn’t a which broadhead is the best of 23 , it was a which broadhead works best for ME video not a machine.
There is way more to getting a broadhead to fly true besides paper tuning a field point. This video is cringe
Well, thank you for watching. I can appreciate your input.
You running a lense in your sight
Yes I am. These old eyes need a little help lol