Most techs does not want to share tricks like this. But to be honest, if i am doing this without any hands on knowledge or first time in the field. I will probably go by the book and how it is removed step by step. Thank God for my Lexus dealership experince, i learned a lot with their engine bay design and it helped me make strategies faster.
This is amazing Thanks!! Thoughts on putting some Loctite on the nuts and then using them to back the studs out? Also did you put the studs back or did you replace them with bolts?
You can use loctite yes and you can reuse the stud. Unless you break it and if you cant get OEM bolts, by all means use a different but same lenght bolt.
couple of things i can recommend you. 1st if u can buy a mechanic stetoscope from ur local auto parts store or a thick rubber hose that is long enough. For stetoscope try to touch compressor, alternator, idler pulley, tensioner pulley and water pump pulley from their assembly that is not spinning, listen to the noise and compare. When using the rubber hose, place one end to your ear and the other end pointing infront of all pulley i mentioned, same concept, compare the noise or sound u hear. A bad pulley will make a loud noise.
I'm getting a code b1421, b1424, but I think the compressor is bad. It works when driving, but it starts to blow hot if I sit still for too long. It always works at night.
Have you tried adding refrigerant to it? Most often in ur cases, its just low in refrigerant. Have it recovered and recharge by any repair shop. Ask them to replace those Schradder valves of the Hi and Lo side ports before vacuum leak test and refilling them back up with fresh refrigerant.
@@DRBauto I already had it looked at and it isn't low. It might be overcharged, but letting some refrigerant out isn't going to fix it. The compressor is old and probably needs to be replaced. All of the other ac components have been replaced. The compressor is the only thing left. When the ac is on at idle, giving it gas runs the gauge up to 90 and the compressor shuts off.
@@drjd2real If a recharge and recover machine/equipment is used, then it cannot be overcharged. With the a/c gauge hooked up at Engine off what is ur low side and ur high side reading? This should be close to even value, then place car at Idle and watch the gauge. What is the high side pressure doing is it stable while increasing pressure? How about the low side, is the pressure increasing then drops down and increases again? If the gauge fluctuates so much or one side works but the other is steady, then yes i would replace the compressor.
@@cutliss but, it is faster to check the static pressure 1st, if u have a A/C machine, then just simply recover and recharge system. If it works then u simply need refrigerant. Could be low or leaked out, if it does not run, disconnect a/c compressor connector and apply power and ground see if it turns on and making it cold.
@@DRBauto thanks for the reply. I'm gonna check it the way you said. Tried using the scan tool but I think I would still need the right pressure for it to activate. Thanks again for your help 👍
i have not tried that on this. But if the compressor is a clutch system then more than likely you can. But if the AC system is a variable type and or those of hybrid cars, then it is different way of rebuilding. I am not 100% positive if u can rebuild them but in some other countries, i am sure that they have a way to do it.
You made it look easy...If they're charging for 10 hours but they can really do it in 2 hours....
Most techs does not want to share tricks like this. But to be honest, if i am doing this without any hands on knowledge or first time in the field. I will probably go by the book and how it is removed step by step. Thank God for my Lexus dealership experince, i learned a lot with their engine bay design and it helped me make strategies faster.
This is amazing Thanks!! Thoughts on putting some Loctite on the nuts and then using them to back the studs out? Also did you put the studs back or did you replace them with bolts?
You can use loctite yes and you can reuse the stud. Unless you break it and if you cant get OEM bolts, by all means use a different but same lenght bolt.
What kind of noise did it make can I send you a video of my noise and you can tell me if it’s my compressor ?
i can try listening to it
couple of things i can recommend you. 1st if u can buy a mechanic stetoscope from ur local auto parts store or a thick rubber hose that is long enough. For stetoscope try to touch compressor, alternator, idler pulley, tensioner pulley and water pump pulley from their assembly that is not spinning, listen to the noise and compare. When using the rubber hose, place one end to your ear and the other end pointing infront of all pulley i mentioned, same concept, compare the noise or sound u hear. A bad pulley will make a loud noise.
I'm getting a code b1421, b1424, but I think the compressor is bad. It works when driving, but it starts to blow hot if I sit still for too long. It always works at night.
Have you tried adding refrigerant to it? Most often in ur cases, its just low in refrigerant. Have it recovered and recharge by any repair shop. Ask them to replace those Schradder valves of the Hi and Lo side ports before vacuum leak test and refilling them back up with fresh refrigerant.
@@DRBauto I already had it looked at and it isn't low. It might be overcharged, but letting some refrigerant out isn't going to fix it. The compressor is old and probably needs to be replaced. All of the other ac components have been replaced. The compressor is the only thing left. When the ac is on at idle, giving it gas runs the gauge up to 90 and the compressor shuts off.
@@drjd2real If a recharge and recover machine/equipment is used, then it cannot be overcharged. With the a/c gauge hooked up at Engine off what is ur low side and ur high side reading? This should be close to even value, then place car at Idle and watch the gauge. What is the high side pressure doing is it stable while increasing pressure? How about the low side, is the pressure increasing then drops down and increases again? If the gauge fluctuates so much or one side works but the other is steady, then yes i would replace the compressor.
How'd you get the studs off??
Inverted torx socket 1/4" drive and a vice grip to help loosen if it is frozen to the block.
@DRBauto thank you! What size torx Socket did you use? Do u remember?
@@SacRomero i really cant remember, but when u get a cheap set (harbor freight). It will be on the 1/4" drive
@@DRBauto thank u!!
Is that what has to be done if it’s blowing hot ?
You need to find out if the compressor is bad or you are low in refrigerant.
@@DRBautodo you know where the relay is to test compressor?
@@cutliss disconnect the connector and apply power and ground and check if compressor kicks on and actually making it cold.
@@cutliss but, it is faster to check the static pressure 1st, if u have a A/C machine, then just simply recover and recharge system. If it works then u simply need refrigerant. Could be low or leaked out, if it does not run, disconnect a/c compressor connector and apply power and ground see if it turns on and making it cold.
@@DRBauto thanks for the reply. I'm gonna check it the way you said. Tried using the scan tool but I think I would still need the right pressure for it to activate. Thanks again for your help 👍
😅it’s dam tight and hard to get it out
it sure is
Is it possible to just remove the pulley & not the entire ac compressor itself?
i have not tried that on this. But if the compressor is a clutch system then more than likely you can. But if the AC system is a variable type and or those of hybrid cars, then it is different way of rebuilding. I am not 100% positive if u can rebuild them but in some other countries, i am sure that they have a way to do it.