Swage fittings are frequently cited as the weak link in the standing rigging of a sailboat. Here is a detailed step by step instruction on how to install Sta-Lok terminal end fittings.
I have been in this field for over 50 years. This is one of the best videos I have ever seen. Well done mate. You are an excellent teacher...confidence without arrogance. I will be viewing more of your post. Thank you.
Never use a grinder on wire, it heats up and takes all the strength out. The stalock fittings are obsolete and synthetic rigging is far more intelligent on such a flimsy boat.
Thanks so much for an excellent video. We had to change out our cracked swages with staloks in a remote location (the closest rigger over 1000 miles away). A daunting project made so much more manageable thanks to your step by step video. We owe you a beer (or probably a case actually!)
Another GREAT video Jordan!! I've owned several boats over the years, and as a former US Navy SatComm & Radar Instructor, your attention to detail is suberb. Awesome notebook showing your work!! Love the practical measurements, and..."tape on the excess side"... Great job sir!
Finally a longer video...yeah leather in the vice always and always use proper size open end wrenches rather than crescents which can produce the damage you suggested....good job.
Celtic Lady Seawind Ii 68 K As a former rigger you nailed it. I have a couple tips for you put leather around your wire in the vise (keeps from damaging the wire), put your big wrench in the vise so it doesn't role and pinch your fingers, and use safety goggles when grinding metal. Fair Winds
I realise that this is a year on but this vid is BRILLIANT!!! Got the camera in nice and close for the little bits and explained it well. Thanks bud, looking forward the the remainder of your vids now. On this sort of technical stuff please keep the detail!!! Happy sailing ;)
Your projects are very informative and helpful to a 'newbie' like me. I really do like the added ideas of: putting a wrench into the vise, not cutting the wire with a grinder, marking the tape with a sharpie and I think I'll use a torque wrench to be a little more precise with the pressure on the final end connection. As I get closer to my boat purchase, I will always appreciate those who share information to make sailing/repairs more fun and manageable!!!
Great job on this video. As others have mentioned, you do a wonderful job of teaching your subject. As a former metric guy, now sort of converted to feet and inches your notes made me wonder why, oh why..... 👍
Such a neat solution & very well explained & demonstrated. The fact that you're DIYing and not paying a rigger must offset most if not all the extra cost of those terminals. Personally I'd rather do my own work wherever possible/feasible because you then know exactly what's been done & also how it works if you didn't already. You pay someone else you take a gamble...
Wow ! Very helpful, your a good teacher, you showed how to do it right and the mistakes you could have , great job , I watch your videos all the time and all your upgrades, some are funny and your great doing it . 👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome video! I'll be making my new headstay this evening! @20:22 what I do when cutting things is put the masking tape at approximately where the cut is to be made then use your pen or sharpie to mark the actual location of the cut on the tape which gives more accuracy and you don't need to remember which side of the tape to cut on. I use the bright green extra sticky masking tape which provides better visibility. Cheers!
Just rewatched (I've been up to date since season 1.5) because I need to do this on my 36' Formosa ketch. New forestay. Holy crap dude. Thank you for the awesome explanation!
Any idea why the caulk? It does not appear to be called for on the Sta-Lok instructions. Plus, I was under the impression that stainless needs to have exposure to oxygen in order to prevent crevice corrosion. Seems like that caulk might not be a good idea.
This is a very good video on the process of installing the mechanical fittings. You asked for comments so here they are. As others have said never clamp wire directly in the vice. Some have suggested leather which is fine. I like to use a 2 piece hardwood jig with a hole drilled down the middle. Starboard would work also. Last suggestion is: why use a vice to hold the wire and then switch to an adjustable wrench to hold the top part of the mechanical fitting? Why not also put it in the vice where it will be stable and not slip. Also, I would never use adjustable wrenches for this process. You are one slip away from damaging an expensive fitting. Buy good quality open end wrenches. But bottom line is this is a very good video. Thanks for posting.
Just a thought, using stainless cutting disc's on your grinder will ensure not to infuse rustable properties from standard steel cutting discs. Cheers love your video's, can't wait to enjoy your travels. :)
Great video. It’s really great to see how your videos have got so much better. So much better to see how things are done, rather than just seeing the finished product. I was really looking forward to seeing the masts installed. Disappointed when we just seen the finished article. Keep up the good work. You guys are a real inspiration. 👍
I'm late to the party, but just want to point out that you hold your tool the wrong way. The way you use it, will put a lot of force on the movable part of the tool. That will make it a bit bigger and the chance to slip on the nut is large and over time, the tool will actually be damaged. Turning it the other way, most of the force is on the non movable part and you will not open the tool more and it will not over time break. I would have to say, you guys are very knowledgeable and its very interesting looking at your progress. Just found your channel, so just started to look through all your videos
Oh, I did not expect an answer! This was fun. I've come to your S2E20 now, so not long until I have seen them all. I have to say that I'm impressed by both of your work ethic. So best of luck from Norway and fair winds!
Hey again! Oh awesome! You're almost caught up!! So glad you've been enjoying our videos! Thanks for your compliment- we both strongly believe in working hard for our dreams! All the best! -Desiree
Thanks for the video! I just bought a Tanzer 27 that I'm going to do a complet refit on and puting all the contain on TH-cam. You're video will certainly help me in the futur. Thanks!
i am stepping my mast this weekend and I have a staylock on the upper forestay. I need to remove the fitting and then reinstall after I run it through my profurl. your video is great to see before I dive in.
as a retired diesel truck mechanic over my years I found quicker and easier ways to work and save monet, this is a big money saver due to the cost of rigging
Nicely done video. I had previously seen one on Sta-Locs on either Delos or Drake Paragon and having another explanation of the same thing was great. As you noted each step, it fell right into line with the steps I remembered. Stay-Loks seem to be the ideal fitting. With a stock of cones or ferrules, you can fairly easily replace rigging in the future using the same fittings. Seeing you balancing the large adjustable wrench while tightening the fitting made me think of how clamping the tail end of the large wrench tail into the vise would steady it a lot as you work. Great to see a tired boat gain a new lease on life. Look forward to the future and to your being able to "Untie the Lines" and head off. The realities of life have me living on the prairies and limited to trailer sailing in our short summer. After retirement we'll see.
In response to Fon's suggestion of using the "correct" size wrench. A quality Crescent wrench is much stronger than any "correct" size box or open end wrench. The mass amount of steel on a quality Crescent wrench is four times stronger than a box or open end wrench. In our shop we weld Crescent brand wrenched to our large vises...thus the jaws of our vises are actually Crescent wrench jaws. This makes the best vise ever.
It doesn’t appear that strength of the tool is at issue; rather, which tool holds and stabilizes the fitting better to avoid slippage and rounding damage to the fitting.
The way the fittings are made there is no way a wrench is going to slip. One part has only four sides versus six on a standard nut. The other part only has two flats; so the gent who wants to use a torque wrench is going to have a hard time finding a socket to fit or be deep enough.
interesting! good explanation. I don't know much about this but I think you made it look easier than it is. Getting that outer layer to re-lay that well seems like it could take some doing :)
Great instructional. Thanks for the effort and for sharing. What kind of locktite are you using? Why not secure one piece of the terminal in the vice, with a bit of protection in the vice, to have a better hold?
It also helps to use those adjustable wrenches correctly. The adjustable jaw should be on the side on the direction of the turn. The big guy on the bench is right. The one in your hand...wrong!
Great job on the video. I’m curious if you have any tricks for disassembling the sta lok fitting if you need to shorten the length of the wire due to a miscalculation. I find it more difficult to disassemble the Sta Lok fittings than to assemble them. Particularly if you are try to salvage the wedge (you refer to them as a cone). I realize it is probably the best practice to not reuse the wedges but if you don’t have a replacement handy you have to make do.
I just found your channel a few days ago and am totally binge watching it! Love it - you two are awesome together. I need to know - what's on your head in this video?? I need one! Cheers!
Sorry to say but your Sikaflex can be seen squeezing up the threads from the barrel. Meaning the Loctite can't possibly get a clean bond between the two threaded sections....
From the color and viscosity t looks like Loctite 271 red (high strength), which normally requires heat if you want to loosen it again after it has cured.
Ok I have an interesting question. Do you think it’s possible to cut a stay and fit a stalok fitting while in place up the mast? I need to do a stop gap repair on a D2. Cut off the lower swage and fit an extended stalok stud. Question is, can I do this up the mast in a bosons chair, or should I go to the massive extent of removing the stay (massive because I need to slide the top spreader off 2” to get the stay out - meaning slacking the whole rig)?
Jordan, what about using an open end wrench rather than risk rounding those fittings with an adjustable wrench. Would that be more likely to round them?
Excellent, Thanks. Was reading Rachel's comment and the softening of the metal sounds reasonable. Worth looking into. Also I have a bad reputation for breaking things. Just how much torque is enough :) ?
Sitting in Les Saints, Guadelope trying to watch this video over poor wifi. We were wondering if you are through the canal yet in real time. Our friend Holly on Gecko (cool chick sailing solo on her 27 foot boat) should be going through about now too. Fair winds, Stacey and Jesse and Summer on s/v Smitty
The reason that you should never cut the wire with a grinder is that it generates to much heat, this then anneals the wire making the ends of the wire soft, if you notice the end of each strand in your vid has gone blue for about 1/4 inch or so, this is the now softened end which is about the same distance that has to fit over the cone end,.When you tighten the fitting together it generates enough force to flatten the soft ends, and can reduce the effectiveness of the fitting with the possibility of it slipping.
+rachel moore Interesting, we were taught this method by a professional rigger who designs competitive racing catamarans. We have reached out to Sta Lok about this specific issue and we'll get back to you with their official response. May I ask where you learned this information?
+Project Atticus a life time of boat building and repairing. I think sta-lock are about the best rigging fitting on the market and I have used them more times then I can remember, I have repaired sta-loks that have on VERY RARE occasions have failed that have been fitted by owners and each time they have been cut with a grinder,now there is the chance that it could be down to owner not fitting correctly but in my experience when the fitting is examined closely you will see that heated ends of the outer strands have actually flattened quite distinctly, this could only happen due to them being softened by the heat when cutting. all that said, I might be wrong BUT for the sake of a bit extra work just use a very fine toothed hacksaw.your vid was very good and I'm sure people will learn a lot from them.regards rachel
Rachel Moore That what I felt also using a angle grinder has heated and changed the structure of the rigging wires soften the metal its wrong don't do it. Also use soft jaws on your vice( aluminium or copper sheet folded over the vice jaws). if your going to use a vice to hold the rigging wire..
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Thanks a lot for making this video! I'm getting my sail boat in near future and watching your re-fit videos gave me a lot of great information!
I have been in this field for over 50 years. This is one of the best videos I have ever seen. Well done mate. You are an excellent teacher...confidence without arrogance. I will be viewing more of your post. Thank you.
Never use a grinder on wire, it heats up and takes all the strength out.
The stalock fittings are obsolete and synthetic rigging is far more intelligent on such a flimsy boat.
Doing some boat work and one of channels that convinced me to go for it is now teaching me how to fix it. Bring the pony tail back!
Your explanation and attention to detail is brilliant. You are a terrific instructor!
Thanks so much for an excellent video. We had to change out our cracked swages with staloks in a remote location (the closest rigger over 1000 miles away). A daunting project made so much more manageable thanks to your step by step video. We owe you a beer (or probably a case actually!)
Another GREAT video Jordan!! I've owned several boats over the years, and as a former US Navy SatComm & Radar Instructor, your attention to detail is suberb. Awesome notebook showing your work!! Love the practical measurements, and..."tape on the excess side"... Great job sir!
Yeah, he can title it "don't do what I did".
Finally a longer video...yeah leather in the vice always and always use proper size open end wrenches rather than crescents which can produce the damage you suggested....good job.
Celtic Lady Seawind Ii 68 K
As a former rigger you nailed it. I have a couple tips for you put leather around your wire in the vise (keeps from damaging the wire), put your big wrench in the vise so it doesn't role and pinch your fingers, and use safety goggles when grinding metal. Fair Winds
+Celtic Lady Great advice! Thanks a lot!
Really informative, detailed explanations and great POV camera angles in sharp focus. Well done.
Excellent video!
One suggestion I might add when using adjustable wrenches be sure and not have them backwards. Less likely for them to slip
Really enjoy Atticus videos, appreciate you guys taking time out of your busy day to make them.
I realise that this is a year on but this vid is BRILLIANT!!! Got the camera in nice and close for the little bits and explained it well. Thanks bud, looking forward the the remainder of your vids now. On this sort of technical stuff please keep the detail!!! Happy sailing ;)
Your projects are very informative and helpful to a 'newbie' like me. I really do like the added ideas of: putting a wrench into the vise, not cutting the wire with a grinder, marking the tape with a sharpie and I think I'll use a torque wrench to be a little more precise with the pressure on the final end connection. As I get closer to my boat purchase, I will always appreciate those who share information to make sailing/repairs more fun and manageable!!!
Great job on this video. As others have mentioned, you do a wonderful job of teaching your subject. As a former metric guy, now sort of converted to feet and inches your notes made me wonder why, oh why..... 👍
Such a neat solution & very well explained & demonstrated. The fact that you're DIYing and not paying a rigger must offset most if not all the extra cost of those terminals. Personally I'd rather do my own work wherever possible/feasible because you then know exactly what's been done & also how it works if you didn't already. You pay someone else you take a gamble...
Wow ! Very helpful, your a good teacher, you showed how to do it right and the mistakes you could have , great job , I watch your videos all the time and all your upgrades, some are funny and your great doing it . 👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent video with LOTS of HELPFUL HINTS so that the job is done properly.
Great video! love this type of video's, you never know when you will learn something that you didn't know. very good job of explaining it.
Awesome video! I'll be making my new headstay this evening! @20:22 what I do when cutting things is put the masking tape at approximately where the cut is to be made then use your pen or sharpie to mark the actual location of the cut on the tape which gives more accuracy and you don't need to remember which side of the tape to cut on. I use the bright green extra sticky masking tape which provides better visibility. Cheers!
Just rewatched (I've been up to date since season 1.5) because I need to do this on my 36' Formosa ketch. New forestay.
Holy crap dude. Thank you for the awesome explanation!
I came here to learn--and I learned. Thanks.
Now, off to replace some swages.
Any idea why the caulk? It does not appear to be called for on the Sta-Lok instructions. Plus, I was under the impression that stainless needs to have exposure to oxygen in order to prevent crevice corrosion. Seems like that caulk might not be a good idea.
This is a very good video on the process of installing the mechanical fittings. You asked for comments so here they are. As others have said never clamp wire directly in the vice. Some have suggested leather which is fine. I like to use a 2 piece hardwood jig with a hole drilled down the middle. Starboard would work also.
Last suggestion is: why use a vice to hold the wire and then switch to an adjustable wrench to hold the top part of the mechanical fitting? Why not also put it in the vice where it will be stable and not slip. Also, I would never use adjustable wrenches for this process. You are one slip away from damaging an expensive fitting. Buy good quality open end wrenches.
But bottom line is this is a very good video. Thanks for posting.
great video my man ,i am just about to fit sta loks on my forestay /furler and your video has helped heaps many thanks cheers Andy
Just what I been looking for to show me how to use Sta-Lok Fitting now I can replace the wire hand rails on my boat.
Just a thought, using stainless cutting disc's on your grinder will ensure not to infuse rustable properties from standard steel cutting discs. Cheers love your video's, can't wait to enjoy your travels. :)
Or simply a new, clean, uncontaminated cutting wheel, right?
I can't believe you people are still using feet and inches. Great video!
Great video. It’s really great to see how your videos have got so much better. So much better to see how things are done, rather than just seeing the finished product. I was really looking forward to seeing the masts installed. Disappointed when we just seen the finished article. Keep up the good work. You guys are a real inspiration. 👍
Many thanks for this informative and helpful video. Just bought my new Sta-Loks, feel like I just might get it right, thanks to you.
I'm late to the party, but just want to point out that you hold your tool the wrong way. The way you use it, will put a lot of force on the movable part of the tool. That will make it a bit bigger and the chance to slip on the nut is large and over time, the tool will actually be damaged. Turning it the other way, most of the force is on the non movable part and you will not open the tool more and it will not over time break. I would have to say, you guys are very knowledgeable and its very interesting looking at your progress. Just found your channel, so just started to look through all your videos
Hey Lolindir! Thanks so much for the tip! I'll let Jordan know! Thanks for watching and welcome to our channel!! -Desiree
Oh, I did not expect an answer! This was fun. I've come to your S2E20 now, so not long until I have seen them all. I have to say that I'm impressed by both of your work ethic. So best of luck from Norway and fair winds!
Hey again! Oh awesome! You're almost caught up!! So glad you've been enjoying our videos! Thanks for your compliment- we both strongly believe in working hard for our dreams! All the best! -Desiree
Installing one today, found this video very helpful. Thanks!
One of the better videos out there on this. Good job and thank you
Awesome video I am just finishing prep work to refit my hunter 27 very helpful info so you don't waste time and $$$$😎
Just got an old boat and planned on doing my own rigging, thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video! I just bought a Tanzer 27 that I'm going to do a complet refit on and puting all the contain on TH-cam. You're video will certainly help me in the futur. Thanks!
Thanks Jordan, just completed some rigging work on my HR 35 Ketch and your video was a great help.
Mike
i am stepping my mast this weekend and I have a staylock on the upper forestay. I need to remove the fitting and then reinstall after I run it through my profurl. your video is great to see before I dive in.
as a retired diesel truck mechanic over my years I found quicker and easier ways to work and save monet, this is a big money saver due to the cost of rigging
Thanks for the detail mate. will help me when I replace mine...Cheers from down under!
Nicely done video. I had previously seen one on Sta-Locs on either Delos or Drake Paragon and having another explanation of the same thing was great. As you noted each step, it fell right into line with the steps I remembered. Stay-Loks seem to be the ideal fitting. With a stock of cones or ferrules, you can fairly easily replace rigging in the future using the same fittings. Seeing you balancing the large adjustable wrench while tightening the fitting made me think of how clamping the tail end of the large wrench tail into the vise would steady it a lot as you work. Great to see a tired boat gain a new lease on life. Look forward to the future and to your being able to "Untie the Lines" and head off. The realities of life have me living on the prairies and limited to trailer sailing in our short summer. After retirement we'll see.
I'm going to have to watch this one again. I fell asleep, sorry Jordan. Though, I spent the day roofing so I was really, really, really tired.
Thanks, guys good video greetings from British Columbia The Sv Freelance project cheers
nice detail on hows and whys..well done!
Well done. I'll be traveling this road in the future so it'll be a good reference. Cheers!
Great tutorial in a nutshell. Liked it a lot.
Just one word, Amazing! Thanks man!
master class great video thanks
Great video, but why loctite red instead of blue? I thought red was a "permanent" application, where "blue" is more workable?
Great, detailed video! Thank you for this!
Great video Jordan
I don't even have a boat. I'm just a dreamer hoping to learn for "someday".
Super informative technical episode. Thank you
In response to Fon's suggestion of using the "correct" size wrench. A quality Crescent wrench is much stronger than any "correct" size box or open end wrench. The mass amount of steel on a quality Crescent wrench is four times stronger than a box or open end wrench. In our shop we weld Crescent brand wrenched to our large vises...thus the jaws of our vises are actually Crescent wrench jaws. This makes the best vise ever.
It doesn’t appear that strength of the tool is at issue;
rather, which tool holds and stabilizes the fitting better
to avoid slippage and rounding damage to the fitting.
The way the fittings are made there is no way a wrench is going to slip. One part has only four sides versus six on a standard nut. The other part only has two flats; so the gent who wants to use a torque wrench is going to have a hard time finding a socket to fit or be deep enough.
interesting! good explanation. I don't know much about this but I think you made it look easier than it is. Getting that outer layer to re-lay that well seems like it could take some doing :)
+cluelocker Thanks! True it can be quite time consuming, that's the beauty of editing video, all the wasted time can be eliminated ( ;
Great instructional. Thanks for the effort and for sharing.
What kind of locktite are you using? Why not secure one piece of the terminal in the vice, with a bit of protection in the vice, to have a better hold?
Excellent explanation!
Great video. Very informative. Thank you.
It also helps to use those adjustable wrenches correctly. The adjustable jaw should be on the side on the direction of the turn.
The big guy on the bench is right. The one in your hand...wrong!
If you are in a marina or a dock..the best thing for a crescent wrench is to toss it in the water and get proper spanners....
Great job on the video. I’m curious if you have any tricks for disassembling the sta lok fitting if you need to shorten the length of the wire due to a miscalculation. I find it more difficult to disassemble the Sta Lok fittings than to assemble them. Particularly if you are try to salvage the wedge (you refer to them as a cone). I realize it is probably the best practice to not reuse the wedges but if you don’t have a replacement handy you have to make do.
Really great video, thank you so much.
Great video, thanks! Which Loctite did you use? I see different kinds of Red Loctite in the market e.g. 262, 271, etc.
Fascinating, well explained thanks.
Great Video! Keep up the great work.
Great demonstration,Thnx
Nice video. Very thorough. Adjustable spanners (crescent wrenches) are terrible. Better is a proper open end wrench.
I just found your channel a few days ago and am totally binge watching it! Love it - you two are awesome together. I need to know - what's on your head in this video?? I need one! Cheers!
Great stuff...thanks for sharing
Thanks for your detailed great video..
Sorry to say but your Sikaflex can be seen squeezing up the threads from the barrel. Meaning the Loctite can't possibly get a clean bond between the two threaded sections....
I am so happy to use the metric system. 5 and 11/16th oh boy i can’t calculate with that units.
As others asked, what kind of loctite did you use?
Good video. Why are you using caulking in the fitting? All the fitting and wire are stainless, right.
Great Video. One question though. What series of Loctite did you use?
From the color and viscosity t looks like Loctite 271 red (high strength), which normally requires heat if you want to loosen it again after it has cured.
These are rear fitting but cut slower with cutting wheel as not to weld wire ends together
Great video, thank you
Put your vise on the end of the big handle and it will stabilize your piece.
Thanks for information
Ok I have an interesting question. Do you think it’s possible to cut a stay and fit a stalok fitting while in place up the mast? I need to do a stop gap repair on a D2. Cut off the lower swage and fit an extended stalok stud. Question is, can I do this up the mast in a bosons chair, or should I go to the massive extent of removing the stay (massive because I need to slide the top spreader off 2” to get the stay out - meaning slacking the whole rig)?
Jordan, what about using an open end wrench rather than risk rounding those fittings with an adjustable wrench. Would that be more likely to round them?
Great video thanks 👍
Excellent, Thanks. Was reading Rachel's comment and the softening of the metal sounds reasonable. Worth looking into. Also I have a bad reputation for breaking things. Just how much torque is enough :) ?
great video
Good job
Very Well Done!
Sitting in Les Saints, Guadelope trying to watch this video over poor wifi. We were wondering if you are through the canal yet in real time. Our friend Holly on Gecko (cool chick sailing solo on her 27 foot boat) should be going through about now too.
Fair winds,
Stacey and Jesse and Summer on
s/v Smitty
Great Job!
I'm looking at getting a westerly 33 ketch about how much was it to do new rigging and how many fittings
Well done video,
Nice job, the use of this kind of standing rigging is already history: synthetic rigging, such as dyneema and the like, is now the standard.
Great job
great vid!
Mixing loc-tite with 291?
Laborious; but then that is how you know it was done correctly.
Thanks
Can anyone tell me if they've had problems with these fittings snagging the sails? One person did, but his was not first hand knowledge.
Thank you! Awesome!
The reason that you should never cut the wire with a grinder is that it generates to much heat, this then anneals the wire making the ends of the wire soft, if you notice the end of each strand in your vid has gone blue for about 1/4 inch or so, this is the now softened end which is about the same distance that has to fit over the cone end,.When you tighten the fitting together it generates enough force to flatten the soft ends, and can reduce the effectiveness of the fitting with the possibility of it slipping.
+rachel moore Interesting, we were taught this method by a professional rigger who designs competitive racing catamarans. We have reached out to Sta Lok about this specific issue and we'll get back to you with their official response. May I ask where you learned this information?
+Project Atticus a life time of boat building and repairing. I think sta-lock are about the best rigging fitting on the market and I have used them more times then I can remember, I have repaired sta-loks that have on VERY RARE occasions have failed that have been fitted by owners and each time they have been cut with a grinder,now there is the chance that it could be down to owner not fitting correctly but in my experience when the fitting is examined closely you will see that heated ends of the outer strands have actually flattened quite distinctly, this could only happen due to them being softened by the heat when cutting. all that said, I might be wrong BUT for the sake of a bit extra work just use a very fine toothed hacksaw.your vid was very good and I'm sure people will learn a lot from them.regards rachel
+rachel moore Good point. Thanks.
Rachel Moore
That what I felt also using a angle grinder has heated and changed the structure of the rigging wires soften the metal its wrong don't do it.
Also use soft jaws on your vice( aluminium or copper sheet folded over the vice jaws). if your going to use a vice to hold the rigging wire..
Hey all, Somebody know how to dismantle the previous wire inside the sta-lok, to reuse it? I understood that the cones is not reusable right?
what was your savings doing your own rigging with this system?
nice job.....but wouldn't it of been better to buy the correct size spanner/wrench
Is there not torque specs for these fittings?