Got a 21mm socket for one buck at the flea market (27.85mm OD). Replacing that 30y/o grease to give this 90s Exage FH-HG50 the love it deserves!😁Axle bearing grease was all dried up. Luckily, bike was seldom used. Thank you so much for this great idea.
Great video RJ, you're an inspiration! I made my tool from an old cassette lockring, which is some very good steel. Used a bolt and washers to clamp it up and turned down the threading and shoulder on a lathe (but could be done in a drill plus a beltsander or grinder), and finished the shaping with grinder and file. The resulting tool is pretty thin so it might not hold up to the super stuck cups, but it's very slick and compact, and served it's purpose beautifully!
This is awesome! I love the idea of modifying old sockets to do the job of a tool that sells for $80 on eBay. Tip: you can usually find sockets for $0.25 at most pawn shops.
Interesting that I found this video only after going through a freehub rebuild and making the identical tool, using (you guessed it) a 13/16" Taiwan socket. Note that the shim/washers under the cone/cup are for adjusting the bearing tightness, so I was able to remove the thinnest one of the four shims and ended up with a tighter (yes, tighter) bearing adjustment.I also use Loctite Blue on the fine threads in the cone, running the cone in a couple of times and wiping oil out of the threads each time.Note also that there are many variations of the Shimano-built freehub bodies, many of the parts do not interchange between them, and using the wrong body may move the cassette mounting away from it's proper position on the hub.One can also introduce oil into the freehub body bearings and pawls (after removing the axle) by running the oil behind the dust shield in the outer freehub body shell (15 drops) and then slowly tilting the body to allow the oil to run in behind the cone/cup part of the freehub body (although excess grease there might prevent the oil from ever getting past the cone).And on the cheaper ones without seals, I oil those with the wheel held horizontal, squirt light oil in between the freehub body and the spokes, and wait for it to run down into the freehub body.These freehub bodies work well with only oil (note, WD40 is not oil), so disassembling to add grease is not really necessary.I only ever took mine apart to adjust the freehub body bearings tighter.
I made one of these this week. Super simple to make and I have now already overhauled two vintage freehubs. Thank you so much for the tutorial. My next project is to make a cotter pin press!
well Sir, i don't know how to thanks you...i had to diassemble the same old freehub body and two very famous professional bycicle mechanic sayd that i had to cut it away by a grinder and get a new one....but then i've found You!!!!! thanks...
Yeah, I almost set my shirt on fire as I did ten minutes of delicate grinding on that thick-walled socket! The file work is where the artistry begins, then put on eye protection(!!!) and smooth all the edges with a wire wheel. I measured the lugs on my tool as exactly 4mm wide and 3mm tall, so it's a pretty strong tool for this job.
Thank you so much for this video! I made this tool only to find out that the free hub was definitely not going to come apart. But on the plus side I somehow managed to get it off the hub.
Man you have no idea how much time and money you just saved me. Keep making great content! I guess I’ll be a little annoyed down the line when something needs a 13/16 socket though 😂
Many of your videos show exactly what I need. Succsessfully copied this tool and overhauled my 30 years old uniglide freewheel. Also subscribed to your youtube channel now.
All your videos are very educational and I thank you for that all thumbs up to all of them. Good home tools can be also made from electrical junction box covers and single track shelving brackets this material is great for wrenches and very strong.
All of my old sockets were too narrow, so this is what I did: I cut two notches in the socket wide enough to wedge a nail in them sideways. I trimmed the nail to be long enough to reach the notches in the race. This did the job and with less grinding!
Awesome! I want to open a freehub body that doesn't always lock, especially in cold. That means bad grease and/or dirt at the pawls. While it is not absolutely necessary to service it, I want to try it and learn something. I've been looking for the right words for the tool needed and now I did and ended up here. Thanks! :)
I dont have a grinder so I improvised. I went to the store and in various stores the aluminum yardsticks were the perfect width to fit the notches in the freehub- 1 1/8th. I cut it in 2 short pieces and clamped it with a visegrip and that was the perfect thickness for the notches. it being aluminum was no problem. of all the dumb stuff though- at the end I have lost one 18th bearing LOL.
You'd want to first flatten the face of the socket with a disc grinder to remove the bevel that's machined onto the rim so that the spurs that are created are more robust and full thickness right to the tip.
Thanks for the vid, made the tool using a dremel/file and a 13/16" socket which cost less than £3. Used it to replace the bearings on a freehub off my winter bike which had seized/corroded bearngs and now it's running like new :)
Got it! I did the tool and worked just fine! ;) Just to mention, TAKE CARE OF THE Spheres!! God! My freehub body is an ultegra which have 72, YES, SEVENTY TWO little 3/32" spheres! God! And I lost some after cleaning them... I was lucky to find some replacements at a bearing hardware store... Cheers!
Awesome idea! My freehub was so darn tight though that u broke a Craftsman socket. I just ended up modifying my hyperglide cassette to fit the uniglide freehub
At last I understand how to remove the gunked up Freehub on my old 3x7 bike! First got some long hex keys just realized there ain't no hex thing inside there, lol. Btw, the Chinese makes a copy of the Shimano tool, just google for TB-1018 and you'll find it quickly. You can order it from many places, including Banggood... waiting for mine to arrive. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
Nice work with the craftsmanship & quality video, my friend! I already own the original Shimano version of this tool but as several of my mates often need to borrow mine & I'm a panel-beater by trade, I'm obviously well versed with using grinders, after having used them almost daily for 4 years, before getting outta the trade as soon as I'd completed it - while my ears & eyes (& back, for that matter!) were still working! Then they can use (& potentially lose) the one that I make for them to use communally & I can both keep my original one in great condition & actually KEEP IT, before one of them loses (or somehow damages) it!
RJ you are the man, l have a fausto copi bike that l am cleaning up and it has an Everest freewheel which l am sure you know has two pin points for removal just like suntour only smaller. So now l know how to make a tool to remove it for cleaning ! Many thanks.
You can try to make a tool. I think it takes the same tool as used to remove older Regina 2 prong freewheels. You can find some of those on ebay. This might work: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004YJ3BHC/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Hi I Found Your Free Hup Home Made Tool Very Useful As I am Going To Make One My Self As I Can Not Use A 10mm Allen Key On This Wheel And Others As I What To Use The New Old Stock Cassettes. Very Good Info On Makeing That Tool Many Thanks Keep It It Up Stay Safe M. ENGLAND.
Ok I just want to save some people some time because my 13/16 socket did not work it was to small. So measure the inside of your freehub before you start making one out of your 13/16 socket. I think I ended up using a 7/8 which is a little bigger than the 13/16. I also had to have an 11mm hex key that took my hub apart from the rear side. Thanks for the video RJ even though mine was different I got to explore my freehub for the first time.
For any future readers looking for workarounds: that 11mm hex nut has a 12 point engagement, meaning a square tool will also fit, and a 3/8 socket extension (which is also used on metric tools) fits almost perfectly!
DearRJ, Thank you for sharing with public your skill in bicycle mechanic and your innovative ideas for tool making. I would like to see your innovative idea of making a tool or showing a way to increase the elasticity of the coil spring for the brake caliper mounting cantilever. By the past of time and use, those coil springs do lose their elasticity. Sometimes they totally lose it. Unfortunately I have not find any place selling those springs individually. One has to buy a complete caliper set that are rather expensive. I did play with a coil spring that had lost its elasticity by pulling its ends in opposite directions and increasing the space between the concentric circles of the coil. It was effective and worked well. However, I would like to learn your idea about this subject and hope that you can possibly demonstrate making a homemade tool for this purpose. Thank you
So I made this tool for a friend who, unfortunately, now has to source a 12mm Allen wrench before I can even use it on his hub. Tried opening my own hub, it's a bit different since it has 4 dents instead of 2 but the tool fits anyway so I though, sure, let's give it a go. Nope, i managed to damage the teeth on the tool and I have to rebuild it now. My hub is... I don't know, maybe 12 years old? I got it used and abused, it was missing a dust cover for who knows how long, had a bent axle, the cones had pits in the pits and the hub body itself, while entirely functional and fully responsive, is almost entirely silent and has this bit of play (way more than normal) that makes derailleur adjustment a pain. Am i just a dingus? Shimano hubs are reverse threaded right? I'm sure I was going clockwise and all I manage was destroying the tool. Maybe you actually do need 4 teeth? I went through those 2 like they were made of candle wax. Please advice? It's a Shimano rh-rm35 for reference. Edit: and oh, the hub is fine, that's some tough steel, not even a dent and the steel on the tool took a beating 😂
hi there ,just watched your video you have made and i have made the tool and it works perfectly ,but what is the exact name of the hub you have been working on ,i need a new one and there is no markings or numbers on mine ,kind regards chris
You need to find out what freehub YOU have. They are specific to the hubs. If you identify the hub itself, you can probably figure out what freehub your need. Or your local bike shop might be able to match it.
Nice video but I was not able to get that inner race from the inside of the freehub to get to those small bearings. There’s no official tool to remove it available, it’s just a disposable part! No bike shop near me had it.
Good job RJ. Just one question: Have you tried that tool on a XTR freehub race? Xtr FH ball races have 4 splines (at least my 960 series) whereas all others I´ve seen have two. I just wonder if its safe to apply force to only two of them...A two prong tool looks a lot easier to make than a 4 one, that´s why I ask. Cheers
I made this tool from a nice Case 13/16 socket. I attempted to remove the lock ring from my DA FH-9000 freehub. The lock ring broke and the cup shattered. I'm going to carefully Dremel it out and try to replace with parts from a 5800 rear hub.
HI did you ever happen to disassemble a FH-965 freehub body? I wonder which ratchets I am facing here - there's a number of these that shimano produces and in this group the stuff may differe than in the lower ones. Would be nice to know beforehand and order prior to the disassembly.
Maybe you could show the grinding process and how far stop before filing. I need a 4 peg version which makes things tricky with the measurement and accuracy or?
4 peg version? I am not familiar with a freehub that take a 4 peg version of this tool? Are you making a freewheel removal tool? If so, why not just buy one?
@@RJTheBikeGuy My bad that's true, time to crawl back under my rock. I mean if you wanted to experiment would u grind a 4 peg tool or would this be much harder because of the
Hi RJTheBikeGuy, just found your great channel. Learning a lot here, thanks for sharing this valuable content. When I was studying in France in started to pick up vintage Peugeot/Motobecane/Mercier bikes from the 70s and 80s. A lot of them have Helico Matic hubs. I did not find a tool while I was there, back in Germany it is hard to find the Helico Matic tool to unscrew the lock ring. There are some on ebay, but I want to avoid paying 40 dollars on the tool... Do you have any idea how to built one? Thanks and keep up the great work! Regards Björn
The inner diameter of FH-M770/775/785/970/985 freehub body is 29mm, not 29.5. I've made a one assuming 29.47mm as in video, then had to file it down to 28.7mm.
Hey RJ! I have an Easton Aero wheel that has the 'lock ring' in the freehub body. I have purchased the tool but cannot for the life of me get the 'lock ring' to loosen. Is it possible that it is non removable, even though there are notches in it that hint at removal? Many thanks. Keep up the good work. Lloyd (England)
Probably too late but; You're aware it may be reverse threaded? Have you tried putting the tool in a vicegrip and using the whole wheel as leverage? Having just one big "tool" to handle with both hands instead of juggling a wrench and wheel (or clamping a freehub body) is much easier!
i need to adjust the cone on my hub for my rear wheel but i cant get a cone wrench onto the cone because its inside of the freebody for the casette and if i were to grab the nut i wouldnt be able to hold the cone, what do i do?
@@RJTheBikeGuy the non drive side has like a welded/glued unit starting with a cone that has a circle like shield and the cone has grabbing surface too thin for any cone wrench, followed by a spacer that legit has to be welded on followed by a nut that might as well be welded onto that spacer
Love your videos! I'd like to make a 4 prong freewheel remover for my Suntour AP that's on my early '90s Trek 720. Could you tell me the size sockets I should start looking for? I don't have most of my tools here, so I will try it with a hacksaw and file.
Jy Hertz If you want to make one, try starting with an 18mm socket. Though the 4 prong tool is easily available. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001B6NC48/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
vesna rosović bazijanac I am not sure what you mean. I do use this tool in my video "Freehub Body Disassembly/Assembly", and I include a link to this video showing how to make it.
Thank you for this video! I am thinking make a 10mm standard socket to a shallow one, but I have no idea how long does it take to grand. How long does it take to grind to the level on your socket (looks like 2mm grinder)?
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
How can this video possibly get 46 thumb downs?? 46 Park tool employees?? Thank you RJ for another brilliant video.
I've just done my first freehub body repair using a tool made from 22mm socket :D You are the best!
RJ is the only guy on the internet who can help me with this. Thanks!
There should be more people like you who explains how truly disassemble and fix bike parts. Greetings from Lithuania !
RJ, very nice job. As the retired manager of a bike shop here in CT., it's nice to see somebody who can really help out and share his knowledge
Got a 21mm socket for one buck at the flea market (27.85mm OD). Replacing that 30y/o grease to give this 90s Exage FH-HG50 the love it deserves!😁Axle bearing grease was all dried up. Luckily, bike was seldom used. Thank you so much for this great idea.
Great video RJ, you're an inspiration!
I made my tool from an old cassette lockring, which is some very good steel.
Used a bolt and washers to clamp it up and turned down the threading and shoulder on a lathe (but could be done in a drill plus a beltsander or grinder), and finished the shaping with grinder and file.
The resulting tool is pretty thin so it might not hold up to the super stuck cups, but it's very slick and compact, and served it's purpose beautifully!
Fantastic, I was looking for this tool everywhere until I came across this video.
Thanks.
This is awesome! I love the idea of modifying old sockets to do the job of a tool that sells for $80 on eBay.
Tip: you can usually find sockets for $0.25 at most pawn shops.
You can use them for other special tools, including in automotive applications…
Thanks for the idea! I just made this tool today (with a hacksaw and file, no less), and it works like a champ
Interesting that I found this video only after going through a freehub rebuild and making the identical tool, using (you guessed it) a 13/16" Taiwan socket. Note that the shim/washers under the cone/cup are for adjusting the bearing tightness, so I was able to remove the thinnest one of the four shims and ended up with a tighter (yes, tighter) bearing adjustment.I also use Loctite Blue on the fine threads in the cone, running the cone in a couple of times and wiping oil out of the threads each time.Note also that there are many variations of the Shimano-built freehub bodies, many of the parts do not interchange between them, and using the wrong body may move the cassette mounting away from it's proper position on the hub.One can also introduce oil into the freehub body bearings and pawls (after removing the axle) by running the oil behind the dust shield in the outer freehub body shell (15 drops) and then slowly tilting the body to allow the oil to run in behind the cone/cup part of the freehub body (although excess grease there might prevent the oil from ever getting past the cone).And on the cheaper ones without seals, I oil those with the wheel held horizontal, squirt light oil in between the freehub body and the spokes, and wait for it to run down into the freehub body.These freehub bodies work well with only oil (note, WD40 is not oil), so disassembling to add grease is not really necessary.I only ever took mine apart to adjust the freehub body bearings tighter.
I made one of these this week. Super simple to make and I have now already overhauled two vintage freehubs. Thank you so much for the tutorial. My next project is to make a cotter pin press!
well Sir, i don't know how to thanks you...i had to diassemble the same old freehub body and two very famous professional bycicle mechanic sayd that i had to cut it away by a grinder and get a new one....but then i've found You!!!!! thanks...
You should show the making process, sparks are pretty cool!
Yeah, I almost set my shirt on fire as I did ten minutes of delicate grinding on that thick-walled socket! The file work is where the artistry begins, then put on eye protection(!!!) and smooth all the edges with a wire wheel. I measured the lugs on my tool as exactly 4mm wide and 3mm tall, so it's a pretty strong tool for this job.
Thank you so much for this video! I made this tool only to find out that the free hub was definitely not going to come apart. But on the plus side I somehow managed to get it off the hub.
Were you turning the tool in the correct direction? th-cam.com/video/X9gIEG1db0s/w-d-xo.html
Man you have no idea how much time and money you just saved me. Keep making great content! I guess I’ll be a little annoyed down the line when something needs a 13/16 socket though 😂
Many of your videos show exactly what I need. Succsessfully copied this tool and overhauled my 30 years old uniglide freewheel. Also subscribed to your youtube channel now.
This helped me alot. Recently my hub’s free wheel is getting stuck. I just had 3-4 days of wet rides.
All your videos are very educational and I thank you for that all thumbs up to all of them. Good home tools can be also made from electrical junction box covers and single track shelving brackets this material is great for wrenches and very strong.
Just made this tool for our workshop, works flawlessly.
we have also made i by our selves an we are 10 years old so dont cry that this is too hard to make. thank you RJ
Awesome! I was making stuff when I was 1 years old too.
Thank You!!! Now I'm ready to go through this bike mission.
All of my old sockets were too narrow, so this is what I did: I cut two notches in the socket wide enough to wedge a nail in them sideways. I trimmed the nail to be long enough to reach the notches in the race. This did the job and with less grinding!
R.J. your videos are awesome, very well explained. Thank you very much!!!
Awesome! I want to open a freehub body that doesn't always lock, especially in cold. That means bad grease and/or dirt at the pawls. While it is not absolutely necessary to service it, I want to try it and learn something. I've been looking for the right words for the tool needed and now I did and ended up here. Thanks! :)
As opposed to taking it apart, you might first try cleaning and lubing it: th-cam.com/video/f19BGYc5ysA/w-d-xo.html
The mineral spirits will dissolve the old grease and flush out dirt.
I dont have a grinder so I improvised. I went to the store and in various stores the aluminum yardsticks were the perfect width to fit the notches in the freehub- 1 1/8th. I cut it in 2 short pieces and clamped it with a visegrip and that was the perfect thickness for the notches. it being aluminum was no problem. of all the dumb stuff though- at the end I have lost one 18th bearing LOL.
finally an answer!!!! ive been trying to unlock my giant p-xc2 freehub for service and couldnt find a tool for it! thank rj!
Very smart.. watched several of your vids. redoing my 1989 trek 8500. liked and subbed. Thanks RJ!
Thanks RJ. Seems nobody else wants people disassembling the freehub.
It's so hard to disassemble that hub, thanks bro hoping to make that one also
You'd want to first flatten the face of the socket with a disc grinder to remove the bevel that's machined onto the rim so that the spurs that are created are more robust and full thickness right to the tip.
Thanks for the vid, made the tool using a dremel/file and a 13/16"
socket which cost less than £3. Used it to replace the bearings on a freehub off my winter bike which had seized/corroded bearngs and now it's running like new :)
Got it! I did the tool and worked just fine! ;) Just to mention, TAKE CARE OF THE Spheres!! God! My freehub body is an ultegra which have 72, YES, SEVENTY TWO little 3/32" spheres! God! And I lost some after cleaning them... I was lucky to find some replacements at a bearing hardware store...
Cheers!
Thanks I’m looking to service my hub on my jump bike this is definitely a tool I will make and use
This is exactly my problem on how to service my freehub. Thank you nice video
What a BRILLIANT idea, Thank you VERY MUCH RJ.
Awesome idea! My freehub was so darn tight though that u broke a Craftsman socket. I just ended up modifying my hyperglide cassette to fit the uniglide freehub
At last I understand how to remove the gunked up Freehub on my old 3x7 bike! First got some long hex keys just realized there ain't no hex thing inside there, lol. Btw, the Chinese makes a copy of the Shimano tool, just google for TB-1018 and you'll find it quickly. You can order it from many places, including Banggood... waiting for mine to arrive. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
Some freehubs are removed with a hex wrench from the non drive side. Yes, I have one of those tools now. They weren't around when i made the video.
Thank you! I really need this one.. Will try to make it by myself
I will making one in the morning
Thanks
Nice work with the craftsmanship & quality video, my friend! I already own the original Shimano version of this tool but as several of my mates often need to borrow mine & I'm a panel-beater by trade, I'm obviously well versed with using grinders, after having used them almost daily for 4 years, before getting outta the trade as soon as I'd completed it - while my ears & eyes (& back, for that matter!) were still working! Then they can use (& potentially lose) the one that I make for them to use communally & I can both keep my original one in great condition & actually KEEP IT, before one of them loses (or somehow damages) it!
Thanks! I'm tired of buying a specific tool for every single part of the bike. Usually pricey.
Thank god i purchase 21mm socket tool
thanx for idea.you saved me man.i made it and now i can fix my freehub!thank you!!!
RJ you are the man, l have a fausto copi bike that l am cleaning up and it has an Everest freewheel which l am sure you know has two pin points for removal just like suntour only smaller. So now l know how to make a tool to remove it for cleaning ! Many thanks.
You can try to make a tool. I think it takes the same tool as used to remove older Regina 2 prong freewheels. You can find some of those on ebay. This might work: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004YJ3BHC/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
I used a door hinge and an adjustable spanner. 👍
Superb explain and the idea is straight to the point
Hi I Found Your Free Hup Home Made Tool Very Useful As I am Going To Make One My Self As I Can Not Use A 10mm Allen Key On This Wheel And Others As I What To Use The New Old Stock Cassettes. Very Good Info On Makeing That Tool Many Thanks Keep It It Up Stay Safe M. ENGLAND.
Awesome RJ! I did this today and the tool works great! Thanks for posting this!
Awesome, I need to lube my freehub badly, didn't have the tool, this is perfect, great job on the video, thanks!
Thanks! You can flush and lube without disassembling the freehub: th-cam.com/video/iQ6XgztsfmU/w-d-xo.html
Ok I just want to save some people some time because my 13/16 socket did not work it was to small. So measure the inside of your freehub before you start making one out of your 13/16 socket. I think I ended up using a 7/8 which is a little bigger than the 13/16. I also had to have an 11mm hex key that took my hub apart from the rear side. Thanks for the video RJ even though mine was different I got to explore my freehub for the first time.
For any future readers looking for workarounds: that 11mm hex nut has a 12 point engagement, meaning a square tool will also fit, and a 3/8 socket extension (which is also used on metric tools) fits almost perfectly!
DearRJ,
Thank you for sharing with public your skill in bicycle mechanic and your innovative ideas for tool making. I would like to see your innovative idea of making a tool or showing a way to increase the elasticity of the coil spring for the brake caliper mounting cantilever. By the past of time and use, those coil springs do lose their elasticity. Sometimes they totally lose it. Unfortunately I have not find any place selling those springs individually. One has to buy a complete caliper set that are rather expensive. I did play with a coil spring that had lost its elasticity by pulling its ends in opposite directions and increasing the space between the concentric circles of the coil. It was effective and worked well. However, I would like to learn your idea about this subject and hope that you can possibly demonstrate making a homemade tool for this purpose. Thank you
Stop posting the same question on multiple videos!
Sorry RJ. I was not sure whether you may read every comments. I just wanted to improve my chance for you noticing my question. Thank you
I don't plan to make a tool. I generally don't have problems with coil springs like that. Maybe they are cheap springs?
thanks man, i was using a old wooden file and adjustable ranch, it worked.. but))))
Fantastic video. I have been looking for this tool and can't believe I found a video that shows how to make it! Thanks so much.
Well done! I'm gonna make one for myself.
Hi there!
Can you please make video with Shimano 105 FH 5600 full service of rear hub?
Good job buddy.
So I made this tool for a friend who, unfortunately, now has to source a 12mm Allen wrench before I can even use it on his hub.
Tried opening my own hub, it's a bit different since it has 4 dents instead of 2 but the tool fits anyway so I though, sure, let's give it a go.
Nope, i managed to damage the teeth on the tool and I have to rebuild it now. My hub is... I don't know, maybe 12 years old? I got it used and abused, it was missing a dust cover for who knows how long, had a bent axle, the cones had pits in the pits and the hub body itself, while entirely functional and fully responsive, is almost entirely silent and has this bit of play (way more than normal) that makes derailleur adjustment a pain.
Am i just a dingus? Shimano hubs are reverse threaded right? I'm sure I was going clockwise and all I manage was destroying the tool. Maybe you actually do need 4 teeth? I went through those 2 like they were made of candle wax. Please advice?
It's a Shimano rh-rm35 for reference.
Edit: and oh, the hub is fine, that's some tough steel, not even a dent and the steel on the tool took a beating 😂
I can see my freehub is not allowing the wheel to spin freely now I will able to fix this thanks
Mi entiende mucho gracias amigo!!
They actually make different brands of the tool for that freehub body still.
I have seen some from China that didn't seem to be around when I made the video. Not sure what you are seeing.
Thank you M.r
Is there bearings inside those types of freehub bodies?
Nice tool but mine is simpler - its just a rectangle of mild steel. It goes in the vice, and the wheel sits on it and turns.
tank you very much .morocco
will a Icetoolz G6 socket made for removing Suntour cassettes work for this? does it have the right dimensions to fit?
hi there ,just watched your video you have made and i have made the tool and it works perfectly ,but what is the exact name of the hub you have been working on ,i need a new one and there is no markings or numbers on mine ,kind regards chris
You need to find out what freehub YOU have. They are specific to the hubs. If you identify the hub itself, you can probably figure out what freehub your need. Or your local bike shop might be able to match it.
Chris Weldon It is Quando freehub body: www.ktgroup.net/product_other.html
Thank you but sorted it earlier
Perfecto carnal...me podrían decir la medida del dado?
This worked perfectly, thanks you 👌
Nice video but I was not able to get that inner race from the inside of the freehub to get to those small bearings. There’s no official tool to remove it available, it’s just a disposable part! No bike shop near me had it.
You must have a different style freehub then.
Good job RJ. Just one question: Have you tried that tool on a XTR freehub race? Xtr FH ball races have 4 splines (at least my 960 series) whereas all others I´ve seen have two. I just wonder if its safe to apply force to only two of them...A two prong tool looks a lot easier to make than a 4 one, that´s why I ask. Cheers
+Aleix fort I have not tried it on one of those. Just make a 4 prong version.
Ok! Thanks
10/10 thank you for the knowledge 😇
I made this tool from a nice Case 13/16 socket. I attempted to remove the lock ring from my DA FH-9000 freehub. The lock ring broke and the cup shattered. I'm going to carefully Dremel it out and try to replace with parts from a 5800 rear hub.
+Justin Bohner Whoa! I can't even imagine how they break and shatter like that.
Were you turning it the correct way? The cup is left hand threaded and is removed by turning it clockwise. th-cam.com/video/X9gIEG1db0s/w-d-xo.html
+RJ The Bike Guy Damn I was turning it the wrong way. My 36" breaker bar made short work of it.
Ouch!
Oh well, no real harm done. I'll replace the parts and get back on the road. Don't drink and disassemble.
Thanks!
Hear and there:)
HI did you ever happen to disassemble a FH-965 freehub body? I wonder which ratchets I am facing here - there's a number of these that shimano produces and in this group the stuff may differe than in the lower ones. Would be nice to know beforehand and order prior to the disassembly.
Does anyone know what this type of free hub is called. Great video by the way 👍
Maybe you could show the grinding process and how far stop before filing. I need a 4 peg version which makes things tricky with the measurement and accuracy or?
4 peg version? I am not familiar with a freehub that take a 4 peg version of this tool? Are you making a freewheel removal tool? If so, why not just buy one?
@@RJTheBikeGuy My bad that's true, time to crawl back under my rock. I mean if you wanted to experiment would u grind a 4 peg tool or would this be much harder because of the
Hi RJTheBikeGuy,
just found your great channel. Learning a lot here, thanks for sharing this valuable content. When I was studying in France in started to pick up vintage Peugeot/Motobecane/Mercier bikes from the 70s and 80s. A lot of them have Helico Matic hubs. I did not find a tool while I was there, back in Germany it is hard to find the Helico Matic tool to unscrew the lock ring. There are some on ebay, but I want to avoid paying 40 dollars on the tool... Do you have any idea how to built one?
Thanks and keep up the great work!
Regards
Björn
Good job!
Ok thanks
You rock. Thank you.
there is no much force to it, you can simply use a plate of the right size (and with a hole in it so you can leverage)
The inner diameter of FH-M770/775/785/970/985 freehub body is 29mm, not 29.5. I've made a one assuming 29.47mm as in video, then had to file it down to 28.7mm.
how much the depth of notch on this tool?
Hey RJ! I have an Easton Aero wheel that has the 'lock ring' in the freehub body. I have purchased the tool but cannot for the life of me get the 'lock ring' to loosen. Is it possible that it is non removable, even though there are notches in it that hint at removal?
Many thanks. Keep up the good work.
Lloyd (England)
Probably too late but;
You're aware it may be reverse threaded?
Have you tried putting the tool in a vicegrip and using the whole wheel as leverage? Having just one big "tool" to handle with both hands instead of juggling a wrench and wheel (or clamping a freehub body) is much easier!
Yua are a Genus!!
i need to adjust the cone on my hub for my rear wheel but i cant get a cone wrench onto the cone because its inside of the freebody for the casette and if i were to grab the nut i wouldnt be able to hold the cone, what do i do?
Work on the non drive side.
@@RJTheBikeGuy the non drive side has like a welded/glued unit starting with a cone that has a circle like shield and the cone has grabbing surface too thin for any cone wrench, followed by a spacer that legit has to be welded on followed by a nut that might as well be welded onto that spacer
Hello, what are the dimensions of the teeth of the tool in terms of width and height in millimeters so that I can make such a tool myself 🤗
It's explained in the video. The cutouts on the part are about 3.8mm. I made my tool 3.5mm wide, maybe 5mm high
Can u make a freewheel tool also.... It will be helpful
There are lots of different freewheel tools, and most are readily available cheap. Not much point in making one.
Thank You Sir for the Great idea :D God Bless :D
brilliant
Love your videos!
I'd like to make a 4 prong freewheel remover for my Suntour AP that's on my early '90s Trek 720. Could you tell me the size sockets I should start looking for? I don't have most of my tools here, so I will try it with a hacksaw and file.
Jy Hertz If you want to make one, try starting with an 18mm socket. Though the 4 prong tool is easily available. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001B6NC48/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Very good like it...
Awesome!
cool ty
Great video RJ, if i wanted to replaced this kinds of freebody hubs , which one are compatible.
Do research and find one that matches.
Why the following video, "Freehub Body Disassembly/Assembly" is not shows this tool and this freehub body?
vesna rosović bazijanac I am not sure what you mean. I do use this tool in my video "Freehub Body Disassembly/Assembly", and I include a link to this video showing how to make it.
Can i use 22m?
Thank you for this video! I am thinking make a 10mm standard socket to a shallow one, but I have no idea how long does it take to grand. How long does it take to grind to the level on your socket (looks like 2mm grinder)?
Depends on the grinder. Why not just shove something down inside the socket, like a balled up paper towel, to make it shallow?
What i mean is low profile sockets, which is better at tight places. Sorry for the confusion.