Freehub Body Disassembly/Assembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- I show how to disassemble and assemble a Shimano freehub body. I clean, lube and install new bearings into the freehub. I basically overhaul/rebuild the freehub. Generally, freehubs are not meant to be taken apart like this. The common thing is to just replace them, or to flush them and lube them like I do in this video:
• How To Remove/Clean/De...
This might be useful if you are having a hard time finding a replacement freehub body for your particular bike wheel. They are not too hard to take apart and overhaul. They might still have more life in them. And it's kind of fun anyway.
Here is a video for how to make the freehub body disassembly tool I used in the video:
• How To Make A Freehub ...
* The bearings in my freehub were 1/8". Measure yours as they might be different.
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where is the link to remove the crown?
@@bsimz008 Remove what crown?
@@RJTheBikeGuy I mean the link to how to make the tool you used @2:50. What are the measurements?
@@RJTheBikeGuy Just found the link. thanks!
@@bsimz008 The link was in description. th-cam.com/video/1qBk5pePGRg/w-d-xo.html
The interwebs is a magical thing, isn't it!?
Some bloke who calls himself RJ made a video long time ago,
in a far away land where people speak english,
about the exact thing i need to do today, 8 yrs later, over here where people don't speak english,
and BAM! I can do the thing.
Cause of 8-years-in-the-past RJ.
Didn't even cost me a dime.
Didn't even have to leave my house.
Magic.
So comforting to know there are still those who know and care about repair and reuse. You’re a gem.
It's an old video, but I just wanted to let you and others know that there is no missing pawl in your case (time code 4:10), it's supposed to be like this: 2 pawls, located asymmetrically in special groves, and the 3rd empty grove, which is different from the previous two. This 3rd groove is shallow and cannot hold a pawl, it's designed to give the spring ring some freedom of movement . And if somebody is wondering, there are 25+25 3mm ball bearings.
BTW, this particular Shimano freehub body is 30M-98010, and it fits freehub assembly FH-RM40-7speed as well as FH-MC10-7speed. They are not produced anymore, so servicing them is the way to go.
I'm servicing mine and I have 52 bearings, but now that I'm reassembling it I don't remember if I should put 26 and 26 or 27 on the inner trace and 25 on the outer trace. I cant find the name of the model, where should I look. Also I have 4 spacer but I dont remember their order. If you could help, it would be awesome! Thanks
@@mrcbrcc The assembly name is usually printed on the wheel hub (the thing that goes between the spokes and is connected to them). Don't worry about the ball bearings, it's almost not possible to err: you won't be able to fit an extra ball, it will be obvious, once you try. Basically, you should have minimal space left on both sides, and the free space left should be equal on the top and on the bottom. If you somehow manage to put an extra ball on one side, it will be really obvious you're missing one on the other side.
@@leonshamis Went for 27 and 25 and it works. Always nervous when working with my rear wheel that if something is mounted wrong I get catapulted while riding, but everthing worked fine today
Brilliant
Hey thanks for providing such info!! Even if not relevant for my situation, I appreciate and love knowing this info regardless!
Use a straw to install bearings. A thin one like a soap pump pack stem. Add some grease so they dont roll out and a skewer to push them through like a syringe.
what a brilliant idea..
Wow. Exactly what I was after. Park tools who? GCN huh? RJ the bike guy has the premium content
That's because he teaches how to remove or disassemble bicycle parts without special tools and that's on being professional
5 years ago and you're still a life saver! Especially now, that getting new freehub is riddiculously expensive in my country.
You’re a legend. Using your videos I was able to get me free hub working smoothly again! I only have old bikes as that’s what I can afford, so it’s great to see someone supporting them. Instead of a socket I used a piece of flat steel bar cut to size, and a shifter, and it worked. Also there are only two sets of pawls in my hub, must be a cost saving thing....
Some years ago one of my freehubs was sticking a bit. I had seen this and tho howt to make the tool -video. I went to my father who has more powertools and we made the tool. I used it to open the freehub, cleaned it and reassembled it. When reassembling I noticed it had a bit of play, so I tried leaving out the thinnest of the spacers it had. After that it still rolled very nicely but didnt have almost any play. I think it probably got better than any I've had, even when they where new. It's on a wheel I use on winters and it has worked fine for at least three winters now.
These videos cover very nicely some stuff that other bike maintenance channels just won't show you. Evereything does not always need replacing.
RJ discovered your channel yesterday. Cannot express how helpful it is. Right now I am working on hubs for the first time, but scanning over the playlists, I see answers to questions I have had since high school. Thank you!!
Count me among the legion of subscribers who made their 3/8" socket custom removal tool and now rebuild freehubs as their value and purpose make it economically worthwhile to service.
Not just interesting and useful, but the ONLY video on YT showing the whole procedure from start to finish. In a helpful manner! :-) NO bikeshops in my local area has been able to work out how to get into the freehub body... "Too old..." apparently. Another fab video to (finally!) save my day. Now I just need to put it back together and hope that the initial 1mm wobble has gone to sleep with the fishes. Have a great 2018 Sir and keep up the Superbly good work!
Still useful even in 2019
Still useful in 2020!
What rubbish bike shops lol. I tapped the cone out with a screwdriver. Then I realised I have no idea how to put it back together lol
same here . greetings from Germany!
@@apfelrocker5574 This is why I'm hesitant to get a job at a bike shop.
Thanks for this very helpful video to take the old free hub apart, as the local bike shop said it was too old and no replacement, and just wanted to replace the whole wheel.
Hey R.J.
I've always put grease on the pawls and not had any stick over the last 45-50yrs even on the old free wheel blocks with the cats whisker springs,
e.g. Campagnolo record.
It does make them run a lot quieter when free wheeling.
Mr. RJ, I'd like to thank you very much for posting these videos... I was BAD confused about freehubs and freewheels and cassettes... I've always had freewheels on all my bikes since the beginning of Time... A buddy brought me a cassette/freehub wheel that spins both directions... I had to consult the Great Googler, and I was sent here to attend your "class"... I've got them straight in my brain matter now... Thank You...
Hey, I saw in another of your videos where you no longer use grease to lube the internals of a free hub. You now use Phil Wood Tenacious Oil, or similar. You did, however use grease for the placement of the first 25 bearings, then had to wash it out and oil from the exterior. I tried using the oil directly. I placed oil in the lower race and carefully placed the first 25 bearings in the oil. The oil held them nicely. I was also able to directly oil the pawls and the interior of the outer free hub body. Just seemed to be a bit easier than using grease, washing it out, and dribbling oil inside. Anyway, like you, I always look for ways to improve and make things easier. I really enjoy watching your videos!
there are 2 lines to put the smaler bearings in right? but how many on the inner and how many on the outside ?
Your video helped me tremendously. I've been searching for a video like this for a while now and none have showed this much detail. Thank you for posting.
ooh i see now, when i got the hub off all the bearings fell down so first i thought there were 2 rings filled with total 50, but now i see were to place them, thanks alot, this was the right video for me !
fixed it and all together again, nice
Immense merci à vous. Avec les explications limpides, on se surprend à réussir l'inimaginable. Continuez, vous êtes extra.
Sir, you're a lifesaver! Let's take a moment to appreciate this hero's content!!
50 dislikes? What type of complaint could one possibly have about this extremely useful and well made video? Well done RJ The Bike Guy! I’ve trawled everywhere to find a video explaining how to disassemble a sealed freehub body and finally seen the light. Reading some of the other comments I’m guessing it might be worth just spend the £22 for a new one but I think I’ll have a go just for fun. Cheers dude! Keep making the vids...:)
The dislikes were from Mrs. RJ and her friends. It turns out that RJ was using her chin hair plucking tweezers to drop in the new bearings.
The biggest issue is wear and tear, once I find the wore out part, I replace it. I rarely like rebuilding worn out parts cleaning tiny bearings that could be worn the housing could be worn Springs etc. etc. etc. Every time I have done a repair on my trucks brakes and found a sticky caliper no matter how much cleaning and lubricating I do I end up replacing the calipers.
My complaint, as with most RJ's videos, is that he assumes everyone just happens to have a workshop at home. Yet most people do not have access to a grinder, so making a locknut removal tool as shown in the video is impossible for the majority of us.
@ there's a much cheaper and easier to.make tool. Just a bit of flat metal wide enough to go into the body like an enormous flat screwdriver bit. But it helps if you can hold this in a vice
@ you need a lot of specialty tools to work on bicycles that's for sure. But I think RJ only relies on his self made tools for very specific tasks, otherwise he'd just buy a tool for it. In this case I doubt there was any available so he made his own.
Interesting that I found this video only after going through a freehub rebuild and making the identical tool, using (you guessed it) a 13/16" Taiwan socket. Note that the shim/washers under the cone/cup are for adjusting the bearing tightness, so I was able to remove the thinnest one of the four shims and so ended up with a tighter (yes, tighter) bearing adjustment. You could also adjust it tighter by sanding down the cone slightly where it contacts the shims, in case there is no shim that is the right thickness to remove without causing binding. I also use blue Loctite on the fine threads in the cone, running the cone in a couple of times and wiping oil out of the threads each time. Note also that there are many variations of the Shimano-built freehub bodies. Many of the parts do not interchange between them, and using the wrong body sometimes moves the cassette mounting away from it's proper position on the hub. One can also get oil into the freehub body bearings and pawls (after removing the axle) by running the oil behind the dust shield in the outer freehub body shell (15 drops) and then slowly tilting the body to allow the oil to run in behind the cone/cup part of the freehub body (although excess grease added there sometimes prevents the oil from ever getting past the cone). On the cheaper ones (without rubber seals), I oil those with the wheel held horizontal, I squirt light oil in between the freehub body and the spokes, and wait for it to run down into the freehub body. These freehub bodies work well with just oil (note, WD40 is not oil), so disassembling to add grease is not really necessary. I only ever took mine apart to adjust worn freehub body bearings tighter.
Thanks I will be able to fix my wobbling freehub body
Thanks for the detailed video, I thought mine was seized, followed your instructions, cleaned it, rebuilt ...... saved over £75.......
+ScottyUk kUyttocS I've had lots of problems with these types of hubs. They get very dirty inside cause they're are not sealed. My XT hub was so dirty, it was locking-up on me. Thought it was shot too... Had this hub for 4 months now and ride once a week for about 15 to 25 miles. These hub need frequent maintenance... I guess you get what you pay for... Chris King or DT Swiss rear hub someday...
Great Video! Once again RJ, you’ve have shown me how to do something to a bike that I’ve always wondered how it was done. I even was able to make a new tool (from an old 13/16th socket) for servicing cassette hubs by watching your other video. I can’t thank you enough.
Great video. Have done this repair now on 2 of my bikes without a problem. I was looking into making a tool to disassemble the freehub like RJ but I didn’t have a spare socket to sacrifice but found you can get a purpose made tool for eBay for around £3 from China. Just had to touch the edges with a file and it worked perfectly.
Thank you so much for the very instructive video. You saved me from having to buy a new freehub
Video tutarial good also for my Cannondale trail 4. Yesterday I did the job, and this morning I rode 70 km without problems. Thank you friend, from Italy!
Just did this disassembly with this video right here as my instructions. Never done this operation before.
Worked like a charm. Cleaned the whole thing and now i'm sitting here with a coffee to watch this video yet again to make sure i put all the bits and bobs back where they need to go. XD
Thanks for making this video, RJ!
(Bonus success: I still have all 50 of those tiny ball bearings, can i get a high five for that?) ^^
🖐️
Just what i needed to know. Excellently edited and perfect for the home mechanic. Lets have more and thank you 👍.
You are making my work much easier with this kind of freewheel which I faced with recently.
Sincerely yours from North Afghanistan.
Informative video. An alternative to the socket mod to disassemble the freehub. My inside diameter was about 30mm (1-1/8") on my Serengeti. So I had in my shop an old 1-1/8" spade bit which fit the diameter perfectly. Blade was about 2-2.5mm thick, so slid right into notches in retaining ring. I ground the bit cutting edges back, to remove tapered edges, until I was back to the original bit thickness of 2.5mm. Then just inserted it into the retainer and used an adjustable wrench to hold and turn the blade to break the ring free.
Wow thank you so much! It's really precise and you're the only one that shows how to do it and how to make the tool. Of course the local bike shops were not helpful, saying "oh you should contact the manufacturer"
(except to provide the odd size 11mm allen key needed to unscrew the freehub body on my bike).
Thank you very much for that video!
I was keen on finding out if I could fix the tightened poles using your instruction.
Due to not beeing accurate this took several hours. But at the end I made it.
Nevertheless I would take the following advice of my "bicylce repair man" to avoid that action:
"Instead just put some thin oil into the appropriate parts and wait. It'll be fine after a few hours. If you couldn't resist and have already disassemled the freehup avoid using too much grease".
Furthermore there wasn't a shop to get these tiny 2.38 mm balls so I had to use the old rusty ones.
Well, anyway I've learned a lot.
It's been 8 years now and now is september 11, 2022 you help me a lot from this video you made...thank you so much...greetings from phillipines🇵🇭
It’s amazing how much of a pain more antiquated rear hubs are to deal with. Modern hubs offer much more in terms of engagement and the ease of serviceability.
I just repaired my freehub, I am working in a Specialized Stumpjumper 97 rebuild project, it was so helpful.
Saludos desde México
Thank you so much for this video! I didn't realize the cone bearing nut was reverse threaded so I started looking in youtube and you fixed me!!
My freewheel didn't look quite as bad but was stuck nonetheless
great vid. extremely helpful. my freehub is now stripped and awaiting 3mm bearings to be delivered. I couldnt find the correct allen key to fit the retaining bolt but found the extension bar from my socket set was a good fit and released the bolt no problem.
cheers
You wouldn’t even understand how helpful this was it’s even the same fh-m475 hub
I just got a bike with a wobbly freehub, with help from your videos I'm happy to dismantle to see what's going on - Hopefully just that hex bolt came loose. Thanks once again RJ
I have a similar freehub on one of my wheels, it was weird when i see just 2 springs, actually everything on it was new for me: 50 tiny bearings, 4 spacers, very tiny room for every piece inside, 10 thumbs up for your videos
Your Channel is awesome! I'm from Brazil and there is no channel like yours here. You always help me with the maintencd of my bike. Thank you so much!
Awesome.
Just about to have a crack at this as a wheel bearing in a bike l have just bought has shattered (into two pieces, possibly three) and is catching internally within the hub itself...l think🌝
Two months ago l could never of even diagnosed or even considered such a task if it was not for your video's. THANK YOU SO MUCH.
Your videos are absolutely brilliant, l have studied them intensely for the past two months and have applied them to my first total rebuild of an old Diamond Back. My first bike build for almost 50 years. It was unbelievable to see the wife ride off on it...She came back though. 😄😄😄
Now I'm totally hooked. Went out and bought a beat up Giant as my next project. Man, I love being retired.
Once again, thanks so much, your efforts are much appreciated...
"She came back though. " That made me laugh! :D
It's good to laugh. 😄
Another great video for my "Bicycle repair/maintenance"collection.
Thanks again, RJ!!
Great video. It was very helpful. I recently purchased a new wheel for a 1x conversion. The hub was sticky and got progressively worse. I followed your video for guidance and now have a functioning bike again.
This and all the vids are fantastic...just overhauled two freehub bodies today after creating the tool...Awesome!
Thank you so much for this video. It's great to repair stuff rather than replace. I'm going to try oil in the mechanism instead of grease as grease caused the original sticking I think! Thanks again.
My old freehub is somewhat grindy and happend that I have to wait till next month for a new one.
Thnx to RJ my freehub is running decently again, and, with any luck, it will do its job keeping me rolling until the new one arrives.
…and this goes straight into my MTB maintenance playlist, for future reference.
I just rebuilt my freehub using this tutorial. Thanks!
Thank you so much! Your videos are absolutly great and helpful. Excatly what i was looking for to repair one of my "loved " Retro MTBs. Thought i had to buy a new freewheel hub which is some kind of no name OEM type on my bike. I couldn't find adequate type so far. .But after following your instructions it clicks 'n clicks,...again. Saved me time and money. Now i' am going to overhaul old cassette whith integrated free hub i 've got still on stock.. Thanks again . Great job!
thin spacer was bent and was under bearing-track making clonk-sound. Thank you for video. I managed to count all bearings and put back just by hand ;) Dust-cap was loose, so no tools needed. one tongue was flipped over, so I put both tongues back after cleaning. I filed one 15 mm key to tighten bearing-cone, it was easier to assemble with screw-bench.
Nice video. I've serviced a ton of these. Always keep a pack of 1/8" balls handy in case you loose some. Plus a couple times opening the Shimano ones, I found they were missing a few balls from the factory.
I only came because I need to know which key I use to remove the body, but I loved the video, good job friend
Excellent video RJ. This convinced me not to mess around with these; I'll just buy a complete hub and have that as my spare freehub part.
brilliant vid mate i have got a road bike i have not been able to use for about 6 years and this is the reason why , it started to lose grip on the pawls slowly but in the end became a waste of time . i used to repair my freewheels when i was a kid but with the new setup i just could not work out how to do it but now i will try and make that tool and sort it ! THANKS BUD keep up the good work
Very helpful video thank you, just finished test run after doing this service and it works now. It looks harder than it is, though mine was in better condition to start with. Also my similar Shimano hub had only two paws as well. Note that i did have no tools to make that "special" tool, i was able to open it with regular needle nose pliers.
This is such a fascinating video for the one bike component that can be reassembled but most likely won't get your royal treatment! My freewheel was really sticky. Very common complaint when pedals and chain will progress when pedaling stops. Just removed the cassette and I took some WD-40 and sprayed the front and near the hub to really saturate any open space as well as spraying through the axle hole. While spinning the freewheel it began to move freely and without resistance.
You'll want to get some thicker lube in there. I do have some videos where I clean/lube freewheels and freehubs without taking them apart.
Oh, thanks! Sometimes it easy to fix a problem the easy way and get set up for more problems down the road. I see in another video you apply Phil's Tenacious oil in tight seams to penetrate into the moving parts.
Yeah.
Im so glad that i found your video demonstration. Thank you very much for the illustrations.
I just disassembled one. Also only two pawls. Same self made tool. Thanks!
p.s. my dust cap came out with a gentle pull using finger pressure only
Found this video very interesting I really admire you’re patience, I suppose by using the right process of dismantling and putting back together in the right order even though you had to fashion & engineer you’re own tooling to get the job done, I just wouldn’t have the patience.Thanks for the instruction and the upload🔥.
Brilliant video it absolutely saved me this morning and educated me for the future
I was trying to dismantle a free hub from a Giant rear wheel but couldn't get the internal screw cone off. then I watched this video & discovered that the tread unscrews clockwise. it was very tight but I eventually got it off. I bought the tool on ebay for about €5 so not worth making one from a socket. I'm grateful for the information. keep up the good work. .😊👍✔
The tool didn't used to be available at all.
@@RJTheBikeGuyyes, you are correct, I tried a few bicycle shops but was told that it was a specialised tool & not available. also said that they don't dismantle them,just replace them. I bought a new free hub for €30 but just out of curiosity, I decided to dismantle the free hub. the bearings are rusted,very dry & the pawls are stuck.. thanks again 😊
Thats what i was searching, my mtb free hub was slipping i took it to the mechanic, the mechanic was even unable to open it ( Here 99% people keep single speed bikes) i opened it but he could not service it properly, next time i opened the free hub and submerged it to the kerosene oil and then put a little bit car engine oil, now it works well but still there is a little free play ocassionaly, i tried to disassemble the free hub but tried to open the cone anti clockwise, now i will dismentle it fully and examine it, if there is a missing theeth then will replace the free hub, once again thanx
Thank you RJ, U have made it a greener world for all.
if you press the dust cap back in till it seats on the bearing cup (like shown) it will cause rubbing metal on metal everytime the freewheel is in effect. Even without seeing any signs of deforming mine was too loose after pressing back in and was always moving to the inside after some riding time.
Great educational video👌I've got a problem with my free hub, when pedaling it slips every know an then, it feels like the free hub is not engaging, and possibly the paws, not working as they should, and the axle through the hub feels notchy, and the bearings doesn't feel smooth when rotating the axle👌hopefully it can be sorted.
This is exactly what I was looking for...thank you so much!
cheers for the video! been looking for this for quite a while
Old skool maintenance, well done sir
Thanks for the great videos. I made the tool and took apart my noisy Shimano Freehub. It only had two pawls too. One was broken though. I had new 1/8" ball bearings, so I put it back together with only one pawl. We'll see if it stands up to the torque of my ebike.
Just want to say... If your rig requires a 11m hex... Using 10mm + 1.5mm hex will get you out of a pickle. Dope video:)
Great guide, thank you. Just used this to service a Duraace 7850 Ti hub that was spewing brown gunge into the hub bearings after my normal hub service. Used a dedicated Super B tool but it was 0.1mm too big and had to grind some off first. Also my bearings were way smaller than 1/8 inch. more like 1/11 inch or 2.30mm. Luckily they were not pitted cos I'm not sure where I could get replacements as Shimano dont want you to disassemble these hubs and spent $200 on a new one! Also I had four pawls on mine which were severely gunged up.
Also reassembly was really difficult as the inboard rubber seal seemed glued on - so everytime you place the freehub body over the Pawl assembly, the 30 loose bearings get caught and dislodge from the race!
Update: I am having real trouble installing the 2nd set of bearings (outboard side). When I place the 35 (!) bearings on the greased non magnetic Ti freehub body race/cup, and then rescrew in the cone (magnetic) the bearings just become dislodged and stick to the cone and jam up the screwing procedure! i.e. they will not stay all in a circle and behave! What could I do to keep the in place? Demagnetise the bearings? Thanks for any tips you can think of!
SI ALLEN It's pulling them out of the grease?
RJ The Bike Guy
Yes. Basically its like sticking a magnet in and they all bunch up!
SI ALLEN I have never had magnetic bearings at all? Why are they magnetic? Or why is the cone magnetic?
RJ The Bike Guy
All the bearings I've worked with are steel and magnetic (hub bearings, freehub bearings etc). Dont ask me why the cone is magnetic! But I guess its steel and not Titanium which is what the freehub body is made from. That's the problem and leaves me stumped!
Had to laugh when you opened the unit up and the ballbearings dropped out all over the table. We’ve all been there buddy! :-)
Enjoyed the video and like you the way you made your tool. Best regards from the UK.
Very informative and much needed right now. Thanks for the detailed explanation 👍
Nice video, planning to change my freehub and repack its bearing. This vid just gave me a wide overview.Thanks
So all of a sudden the freehub on my MTB started to be really sticky. I decided I should try to fix it myself, and looking for how to do it, I found your videos on the topic. Inspired by you I just today made a dissassembly tool from a 21mm socket. Starting to take things apart, I also found that the rear axle turned kinda rough in the wheel. So I thought I'd have to replace those bearings too. Continuing on, the stud that holds the freehub body came off easy, almost too easy. My tool fit nicely in the slots in the cone/race of the freehub body. But it was on there loose, real loose. But I still wasn't too alarmed. So I continued my investigation and took the outer part off, with little ball bearings going everywhere. I then proceeded to try to take the central part off from the hub, but it was really stuck on there. So I looked at it closer and saw the the damn thing was cracked! The center part of the freehub was cracked! I put my 10mm allen wrench in it and started tipping it back and forth to break it free, which worked. And at that point I got another surprise, the mating splines in the wheel hub are damaged from the broken freehub core! So right now I don't even know if I'll be able to put a new freehub on there. I might have to file a bit on the splines or something. Sigh!
I guess the core of the freehub being cracked is what caused the axle to run rough too by the way.
+Niklas Bergsten Wow, I have never seen a freehub break like that.
+RJ The Bike Guy Yeah I guess I've been hammering it a bit hard down the trails. Uploading a video of the carnage now
I would like to see that.
for that special tool i used bit of a steel basicly rusted flat square chunk of metal.. and made leverage with adjustable wrench.. no need to be fancy. :D I got it from farmes trash pile.. it was ploughs furrow bit.. nice hard metal.
Thank you for this, I could not find a freehub for my old 1999 Xt hub. I was able to grease it up and put new bearings and get a little more life out of it.
This is probably the video that my mechanic was talking about. I need to get the pawls on my freehub cleaned. It's been soaked several times and it sometimes slip. At first I thought it was just my RD not being tuned. My mechanic and I both concluded that its really the freehub. I am pooling some funds now to assemble a new wheelset, but I don't want to just throw my current hubs away, I feel like it still has years of life left in it.
Try this first: th-cam.com/video/f19BGYc5ysA/w-d-xo.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy will do! Thanks! you're a bike (life) saver!
I have to watch this video everytime I do this. Thanks for each time it's come in handy.
yes, have to Tighten the free hub remove tool, to make it loose, that inner ring ! don;t forget everybody, tighten it will oosen it.
Hi, I've just had to service my freehub which was making some terrible grinding noises, and it was actually a very easy fix. I could access the race with the smaller bearings from the back of the hub by removing a rubber dust cap, and thus clean out the gunk with a small paintbrush. Just commenting so someone with the same problem tries this before taking the time to make the custom tool. (I unfortunately can't do that, since all I have is a dremel and I live in a building where noise isn't well tolerated). good luck y'all
th-cam.com/video/f19BGYc5ysA/w-d-xo.html
RJ The Bike Guy excuse my stupidity.. I've seen the video, just kind of forgot about it's existence :) Thank you!
No problem. I really recommend trying to clean and lube the units before trying to tear them apart.
True, true. My curiosity just got the better of me.
Also, I've only recent started tinkering with bikes, and your channel has been a real lifesaver. So thanks a lot, wish I was in a financial position to give more than just gratitude. :)
Great video. I could not find a socket that fit so used a 1.125" flat drill bit and a large cresent wrench to spin the bearing cap out. Cleaned the gummy pawls and bearings and it works like new.
There is a tool for this on aliexpress. Costs like 5 bucks, ship free, and it has a retaining bolt that goes inside the hub in place of the axle. But, my opinion, whatever one can DIY, one should DIY :)
Rj the real bike guy😊
This is a brilliant video. my Giant defy 0 has this freehub, the bike is a 2016 model on the PR-2 wheel and this video means I can overhaul the freehub. Nice one RJ. Legend
You can get the tools rather inexpensive via aliexpress :) Did not even need a blindhole puller on my type of freehub. With all the tips and this video is was a easy job, I needed just 20 1/8" new balls :) Thanks a lot for the vid. Spared me another 15 euro, I hope it will last years now if I do this maintenance every year.
Oh your channel is a wonderful resource! Thanks for posting!
Jetzt verstehe ich es besser. Danke!💪👍
Thann you for tour vidéos ! Exactly what i needed!
Altough i broke the end of my screwdriver in the freehub.. Didn't get that there wasn't a ruber ring on mine.
Manage to pull it out after many hours hoping i hadn't broke it.
:).
Very helpful video series, really appreciate !
Remember.....oil the plwas and grease the bearings. :)
Excellent production and demo. Well done thank you!
Thanks RJ. This was very helpful. I have a old 6 speed hub that I suspect the pawleys are stuck - Because at times it slips when I pull away: like almost a half pedal stroke down. Surely that is not chain or ring related, because they still look fine.
Clean and lube it: th-cam.com/video/XUSBr7Q0HmU/w-d-xo.html
What size of ball bearing in freehub body thank you.
thank you very much!! this is what I'm looking for!!!!
That metal dust cap at the top is not that easy to remove, especially if you punch it with a screw driver it will surely deform (it's thin metal) and won't fit back well and the cone will not match it. It actually doesn't want to come out because of the threads for the locking ring, I suggest try first to 'unscrew it' through these threads by turning it with your fingers (and to screw it down when putting it back in place). It's not essential, but it does keep the hub bearings cleaner. Otherwise, I managed to make that tool from a socket cutting with a cut disk - indeed nice sparks, not that hard (use a mandrel) but be sure to make the two 'teeth' right in front of each other AND in the middle of a hex side. You want a socket that is 28mm Outside (overall) diameter. I cut first from the sides at about 2mm depth, then stopped right before the middle, then repeated from the other side, then chopped down into the cut piece cutting right where the teeth should be. If you get it wrong, cut down again into the socket. It worked nicely to remove the ring with two notches but remember, it unscrews CLOCKWISE (inverse of normal threads). I too found inside only two clicking pieces (instead of three) and a rain of TINY balls, so be sure to unscrew the piece right at the floor surface on a piece of paper towel - there are 50 balls. There is indeed only 2 pawls in there, the place for a 3rd one is actually not machined to receive one. The tiny spring the keeps the pawls in place is fragile and has to end against small bump because it has a gap at the end. The two spacers (thick one at the bottom, thin one on top) actually have each a round and a flat surface. Basically place them in such way to have their flat surfaces touching each other. Oh, and to remove the locking ring to free the cassette (before getting at the freehub), be sure to bring the wheel to a bike shop, mine was incredibly stuck and two people with the right tools were barely able to remove it. And to remove the cylinder that keeps the freehub on the wheel, I used a large torx socket T55 with a wrench, fits very well. Thanks for the tips and the help!! You helped me restore this nice bike from 1991 all made in Japan!
Thank for you that specific procedure and now I know what they looks like inside. Pretty sure most Shimano Freehub body shares similar structure which should be the same for mine too.
Clockwise to loosen! You saved me a lot of cursing. Anyhoo I mulled about making the cup removing tool and figured it would be more time/cost/hassle than the toasted freehub was worth, - but thanks.
Excellent assembly. Thank you very much a complete explanation.
great stuff AGAIN! had mine seize up on me over the winter and even though it's free now it's dog rough so found that tool on ebay (£7) and will try to service it. Otherwise to get a matching freehub that isn't branded (I think this is a formula hub) looks like ebay via China is the easiest option, so hope I can repeat your servicing instructions.
Also looks like the ebay tool could be used as a press tool for headsets / bb bearings etc, just with alternative sized washers (threaded bolt etc etc).
Love your work RJ, hope you're enjoying your cycling still these days.