Brilliant, just brilliant. Love to see older models being treated well. The addition of pick ups to the front bogie is exactly what hornby did on the re-release.
Morning Bill, that is one little beauty of a engine, I've got a triang GWR lord of the isles about the same age if not a little older, it has exactly the same issues, I think I am going to try replacing the traction weight with lead that's a great idea, also with my engine I've got a small spring on the front bogie to lift the body at the front and push down on those rear wheels, I might give it a go at fitting some more pickup to the front bogie, I've had this model for over 50 years and I'm ridiculously fond of it even with the poor traction. The grandkids love seeing the wheels spin when she pulls away. Great job bill, looking forward to the next one. Eddy xx
"Screw in the rear"!!🤣 Fantastic job, Bill. Amazing reduction in noise levels and far more reliable over points. I always enjoy your videos. Cheers! Mike 👍🍁🍁
Hi Bill. You maybe able to fit more pick ups to the front bogie by using nylon screws. And mounting the guitar string on a small length of plasticard. Solder the wire first so as not to melt the plastic. Fix the plasticard to the bogie with a small amount of two part epoxy resin. I have used nylon (plastic) M2 screws to dcc fit a split chassis loco and they work very well.
Hi from Georgia, Bill. A few weeks ago I plucked up the courage to bring my Triang Caley out of storage after 40 plus years of non-use and convert it to DCC. Mine required similar TCC of cleaning, lube etc so your experience certainly registered with me. You can see the result on my little video “A Blue Movie” on my channel with 123 pulling clerestory coaches. I’m now tempted to add bogie pick ups after seeing your solution and results. Thanks for such an enjoyable production.
Hi Bill, You can get replacement brushes for the X05 motor from Peters Spares. Great to see in the background that your scenery changes are progressing well.
Hi Bill. I must try to make my Triang loco's run as good as yours. This loco sounded like a bucket of bolts when you started working on it , now its so quiet. Lovely job as usual. Well done mate.
Very interesting video Bill, thanks for posting it. There is a useful video by John’s amazing trains where he improves the single. He fits the bogie from the newer Hornby version which has pickups on both sides - if you can find one. He also adds some resistors into the power lead to make the loco less on/off and emphasises the importance of oiling the wheel bearings of the loco and the coaches to minimise the drag because, as you say, the loco is very pretty but awful weak.
Minimising drag is important as it has very, very weak traction. I want to fit metal tender wheels with top hat bearings and the same for any coaches it pulls.
@@oobill Reducing drag will help for sure and I wonder if there is any mileage in springing the front bogie or going further with the tender to force down the back end, like a very basic Easichas.
@@simonturner5450 Springing the front bogie would be risky in that you might cause upward force on the drive wheels. And that's the last thing you want on this model. What's needed is down force directly above the drive wheel which isn't really possible other than doing what I did by replacing the traction magnet with lead. I've actually removed the extra weight I added to the tender because although it helped keep the rear end down it also increased drag.
Hi Bill, yet another inspirational video. 50years old and now ready for another 50. What a difference some time made servicing and thinking about what they had designed so long ago. Hornby’s county class have pickups on front bogies and school class as well. It’s simple things that sometimes solve the problems. Gonna need a driver and fireman for this wee beast. Looks little odd compared with other two. Yet again a great video, please keep going with these. All very best Marc
21:17 I own one of the more recent Hornby versions. It's still made from the same mould as this, I believe, but the front bogie is wired to pick up. The tender still has plastic wheels though.
Did you remove the magnet? I am sure I saw/heard you say this after I had sold mine. I just found another one and if I put weights into the tender it makes an improvement in negotiating the points?
It's wonderful to see a lovely locomotive brought up to date. It looks so good on your layout. The difference it makes by adding extra pickups is fantastic. Inspired by John's Amazing trains, I changed the wheels on the front bogie of my Tri-ang R159, added wire pickups, and it is transformed. Like your Caledonian, no stuttering on the track! I think it is high time that one of the manufacturers made a modern version of this.
Totally agree that Bachmann or Hornby should produce a new one. Bet they'd still mess it up by going for drive from the big wheel though! Ideally a tender drive would be the solution to all of this model's issues.
Another outstanding fix Bill. These old Tri-ang models were built to last and this is a fine example, I have a 1960's Tri-ang Britannia from my very first train set (with synchro smoke), sits proudly now on a length of track in a cabinet, not fit for for todays DCC system... All the best Bill and keep these excellent video's coming.
I've always loved the look of these old Tri-ang Singles. They're the main reason I'm looking at building a layout with at least one dedicated loop of the old steel Super 4 track. Well them, and the Dock Authority diesels, which have notoriously large wheel flanges. The later Hornby re-release did have pickups on the front pony truck. But it still had the issue of being too front heavy, and the tender being criminally light and with plastic wheels. Hornby stuck a traction tyre on the main driving wheel, to compensate for the loss of magnedhesion (I think that's what Tri-ang called it), which wasn't great. I've seen the other modern Hornby Singles get crucified in reviews, since they used the same old molding for the most part, and didn't pull or run very well for the price. Which has me cautious about the re-release of the old Tri-ang Lord of the Isles set coming later in the year.
@@oobill I agree. The only standard available tender drive I can think of that might fit in the Caledonians, with only the height of the coal load needing to be altered or swapped over altogether to hide it, is from the Hornby Saint Class. Since it was shorter in height than the ones they used to fit in everything else.
Will look at that. An old Airfix ringfield motor bogie as used on the 2P and 4F would almost fit. Would still need a higher coal load. I'm tempted to get hold of another tender to experiment as it would require a lot of serious butchery to the tender chassis as well as the coal load.
Very good improvement, nice touch to replace that dratted magnet! Suspect a little springing of the front bogie would help. That X05/XT60 motor is a neat design.
hi Bill great video. i remember these when they came out as i am 69 years old, great locos.quality back then ! another fab loco was the Davy Crockett R358 and matching coaches.hope the r156 08 is ok.
Interesting video Bill. I have both the Triang and the later Hornby version of this model and yes I feel the later one isn't quite as good although the front bogey does have pick ups on it, it's also a darker shade of blue. I'm in Midlothian so not far from you so would be happy to let you run the later one on your layout if we can organise something for that if you wish. The downside of the Triang one through is the collector plate under the chassis. I had to rebuild mine as the plastic had degraded and it fell apart when I unscrewed it to service the model. There's more chance of seeing a camel on Long Niddry Bents than sourcing a Triang collector plate, I've been looking for one for years!
Hi Bill, just found another CR Single in excellent condition for cheaper than what I sold my earlier one for. I noticed there are two different numbers, one on the body and one on the pick up plate. I believe the loco is one of the first issued with the non gloss finish but could it have been rebuilt? Watch this space for a video
Great fix bill, I'll definitely give mine ago with the guitar string pick up.With the magnet on steel triang super 4 track she will pull out 6 full length coaches no probs .
Wonderful, you seem to have the same Caledonian locos I have! Or vice versa. My Caledonian single is a later Hornby version. It has front bogie pick-ups, traction tires and a tiny 3 pole motor. The traction tires make it a slightly better puller, but the loco is still very long-legged. The body is very narrow, so I can't retrofit it with my regular 6 pole motor to make it run slower. Need to think up something else. They say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but where is the fun in that!
Hornby should have made the later one a tender drive. That would have solved all the issues. But it's a very shallow tender so they would have had to design a bespoke motor. But if I were designing a new model I'd go with a tender drive to keep the loco wheels free for pickup only and allow a slower more powerful drive from the tender. No pickup issues, no traction issues and the balance could easily be addressed by weight in the rear of the loco.
I have the Tri-ang Dean single that uses the same chassis, I used the same trick in removing the magnetic in that as it does cause far to much drag on the wheels. I’ve not added any extra pickups yet bet it does have Romford wheel fitted to the tender. My Caledonian single is the modern rerelease so has pickups on the front wheels and the type 7 motor plus DCC socket, other than that it’s the same model including plastic tender wheels.
Congratulations on getting this old loco to work well, Bill. I'd like to get an old US prototype model and make it work well again (due to the inspiration you have given me), but I'm not sure the larger flanges would run on my Peco Code 75 track! Cheers from Wisconsin.
Hi Bill. You certainly like your Caledonian locos and rolling stock don't you. I wonder why that is. 😀 Glad you did a video of its servicing. I have a 4-2-2 Lord of the Isles that is Triang No: R354. I have renamed it 'Crusader' No: 3036 using professionally printed nameplates and cab numbers. I have also fully serviced her but never encountered the problems you came across which is surprising really as I believe the chassis and motor etc. are the same as on your Caledonian. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. 👍 Paul.
Hey up Bill. Another video showing your amazing skills and patience. I got one of these on e-bay and it didn't work at all well. I broke the pick up wire but managed to get another, but somehow I've not been able to get it working again. To go to the extent you have dismantling the loco into tiny bits is too much for me to contemplate. Can you help here ? Like you, I love the British Caledonian blue trains. I just love your videos and try and soak up all that inspiration that oozes out to me !!! Thanks Bill
Hornby had the same idea as you, in that they added pick-ups to the bogie wheels. But then they went the other way by putting traction tyres on the driving wheels. That fixed the traction issue - my newer one pulls fine (on nickel-silver track). But with the traction tyres compromising pick up from the driving wheels, mine still tends to stutter a bit going over points. Yours, like mine, is way over-geared, so it goes much too fast for realism. The maximum speed of the real thing was about 65 mph. To stay within that, I need to always run my Hornby model at 40% or less (using a Morley controller, much the same as yours, I believe).
Absolutely love your channel Bill the best around imo. I always find it such a shame that model railers never have drivers or passengers on their trains tho. Instead all we see is empty ghost rolling stock. A big miss i feel.
I recently bought the Caledonian train pack with the later darker blue version (DCC fitted!) and it pulls its 3 coaches well thanks to the traction tyres The only problem mine has is the tendency for the front end to oscillate side to side - might be too much play on the trailing axle .
I have one of these somewhere , think my Dad has it at his house . I remember it as a flying machine with all the issues described . The comment about the steel track is correct , and I am prity sure that traction magnet sometimes caused the wheels to short out . Runs much better after it has been OOBilled ! Agree that tender and front bogie pickups would help , how about a modern front bogie already equipped with pickups ?
@@oobill I measured the plastic wheels and bought the same size with the same number of spokes. I cant remember what size they were now as its a few years since I did the conversion. Used DCC concepts pickups. Really enjoy your videos!
Have you tried de-magnetising the traction magnets as an different option to lead? BTW this old loco is much easier to work on than the newer Hornby version.
Bill, It was pointed out to me on my loco that the rear wheel was not turning under power. I have placed additional weights into the tender and used some spacers/washers on the coupling. I might need to add additional weight or, did you find another solution?
Hi Bill I've got game garden railway diesel engines they could do with a service as 2 of them just stopped working and I have no idea what's wrong I hear power but they don't move
Time to get the screwdriver out! If you can hear a motor running but it doesn't move, that would suggest a problem with the drive train: a split gear, loose axle, missing teeth,... Take lots of reference pictures before you start and as you go, so you can always retrace your steps. Then observe. I think I can safely say that all of the problems Bill has solved for us could be identified with the naked eye or an electrical continuity test. Good luck!
OK thanks I will see if I can repair them I've just noticed under one of the engines that complet bogey and all wheels are stuck I will get wd40 see if I can lossen it if not I will sell as spare or repair on ebay
Running this model loco on Nickle Silver track is not what it was intended for? Originally, the Magnadesion magnets would hold the rear and the drive wheels down to steel track. This will not happen on late model track, making the loco seem front heavy?
Yes and no. The trouble with wire is it bends easily and with the movement of the wheels it can stop touching the wheel after a while. You really need something that is very springy, can still be bent into shape but retains its shape. Thin plain steel guitar strings are perfect for this and very similar (and better) than the wire Hornby/Tri-ang used on old collector plates.
Yes, but only those two axles. As you saw, the rearmost one was sometimes held off the rails by the weight at the front, so only one axle would be supplying current. As mentioned above, later versions of this and the "Lord of the Isles" (which use the same chassis) have pickups on the bogie wheels, so Triang/Hornby were aware of the failing.
I have six coaches, four with the various shades of white roof and two with the grey roof. Do you have a different number on the pickup plate from the number on the underside of the body?. Where did you find the tender wheels?
¡Hola buenas tardes Bill! Another useful service and loco improvement video. The appreciable noise reduction and, pick up enhancement was cleverly thought out. One thing I must query, your CR Pug engine - did I notice, all but very briefly, you have an adapted coal tender, in the form of a separate wagon. I’ve recently restored such a CR pug and, at first, I thought the coal tender had been broken off (as you guess, I am no expert when it comes to exact specifications) although there was no apparent break points. Other than sacks of coal on the footplate (something I doubted) I did wonder how they coaled the fire? Hope you might be able to provide some insight into this? Thanks and un saludo. Gary
I added a tender by converting an old coke wagon. I fitted the wagon with metal wheels and added pickups that are hardwired to the motor in the loco. Solves any stopping on points and crossings. The wires act as couplings and I took the old couplings away and fitted footplates made from card.
@@oobill That’s what I suspected - well the use of the wagon I mean. The additional items are also very sensible and, I will certainly be looking into a similar arrangement for my own loco. If there’s a chance of a few close up shots of your pug, during your next overhauling video or, an actual account of how you made that pug upgrade, that would be fantastic Bill.
Bill, thanks for all your direction on this. I am now confident enough to attempt an upgrade of my own. I will of course give the appropriate credit to you and, the channel, when I post any material featuring this train. Stay safe and well, cheers! Gary
Also, always slide the magnet out onto a metal "keeper" to maintain it's strength.. Never, just remove the magnet.. I'm afraid that you have a lot to learn about old Tri-ang motors?
Yes, I noticed that later in the video.. But most other people do not have one? That's why it's good to slip the magnets onto a keeper in videos.. Many people do not know about the loss of a magnet's strength when it is 'out' of a motor?
Brilliant, just brilliant. Love to see older models being treated well. The addition of pick ups to the front bogie is exactly what hornby did on the re-release.
It's such a pleasure watching these videos. The simple ideas that make an ancient locomotive run so much better. Just brilliant.
Morning Bill, that is one little beauty of a engine, I've got a triang GWR lord of the isles about the same age if not a little older, it has exactly the same issues, I think I am going to try replacing the traction weight with lead that's a great idea, also with my engine I've got a small spring on the front bogie to lift the body at the front and push down on those rear wheels, I might give it a go at fitting some more pickup to the front bogie, I've had this model for over 50 years and I'm ridiculously fond of it even with the poor traction. The grandkids love seeing the wheels spin when she pulls away. Great job bill, looking forward to the next one. Eddy xx
What a cracking job you have done on the single wheeler Bill.
"Screw in the rear"!!🤣
Fantastic job, Bill. Amazing reduction in noise levels and far more reliable over points. I always enjoy your videos. Cheers! Mike 👍🍁🍁
That's how singles like it in Caledonia!
Very nicely done service and upgrade and a lovely Scottish Running Session to boot.
That's a great refreshing of the 50 yr old model - it looks like new! Thanks for the video - very enjoyable.
Good Morning Bill,another great video! You are such a clever chap and it's lovely watching you work.
Hi Bill. You maybe able to fit more pick ups to the front bogie by using nylon screws. And mounting the guitar string on a small length of plasticard. Solder the wire first so as not to melt the plastic. Fix the plasticard to the bogie with a small amount of two part epoxy resin. I have used nylon (plastic) M2 screws to dcc fit a split chassis loco and they work very well.
You are a miracle worker of the miniature world.
Fantastic work on the pick-ups. Lovely locomotive.
Hi from Georgia, Bill. A few weeks ago I plucked up the courage to bring my Triang Caley out of storage after 40 plus years of non-use and convert it to DCC. Mine required similar TCC of cleaning, lube etc so your experience certainly registered with me. You can see the result on my little video “A Blue Movie” on my channel with 123 pulling clerestory coaches. I’m now tempted to add bogie pick ups after seeing your solution and results. Thanks for such an enjoyable production.
Hi Bill, You can get replacement brushes for the X05 motor from Peters Spares. Great to see in the background that your scenery changes are progressing well.
Hi Bill. I must try to make my Triang loco's run as good as yours. This loco sounded like a bucket of bolts when you started working on it , now its so quiet. Lovely job as usual. Well done mate.
great video I like the addition of he front pickups to the bogie
Another great video Bill unusual wheel configuration. Drive wheels appear very large, smart colour too cheers Bill.
Fitted some Gibson wheels to the tender. Does make a difference and looks a lot better too. Together with metal wheels for the coaches.
I have just purchased one of those Trains😊
What a beast you now have there :-)
Amazing results Bill
I have just brought a s hand. One same as yours. Thanks for lovely film.
Lovely job Bill.
Very interesting video Bill, thanks for posting it. There is a useful video by John’s amazing trains where he improves the single. He fits the bogie from the newer Hornby version which has pickups on both sides - if you can find one. He also adds some resistors into the power lead to make the loco less on/off and emphasises the importance of oiling the wheel bearings of the loco and the coaches to minimise the drag because, as you say, the loco is very pretty but awful weak.
Minimising drag is important as it has very, very weak traction. I want to fit metal tender wheels with top hat bearings and the same for any coaches it pulls.
@@oobill Reducing drag will help for sure and I wonder if there is any mileage in springing the front bogie or going further with the tender to force down the back end, like a very basic Easichas.
@@simonturner5450 Springing the front bogie would be risky in that you might cause upward force on the drive wheels. And that's the last thing you want on this model. What's needed is down force directly above the drive wheel which isn't really possible other than doing what I did by replacing the traction magnet with lead. I've actually removed the extra weight I added to the tender because although it helped keep the rear end down it also increased drag.
nice job on a nice looking loco runs quieter exellent tutorial thanks for sharing some of these old locos are worth doing
Hi Bill, yet another inspirational video. 50years old and now ready for another 50. What a difference some time made servicing and thinking about what they had designed so long ago. Hornby’s county class have pickups on front bogies and school class as well. It’s simple things that sometimes solve the problems. Gonna need a driver and fireman for this wee beast. Looks little odd compared with other two. Yet again a great video, please keep going with these. All very best Marc
21:17 I own one of the more recent Hornby versions. It's still made from the same mould as this, I believe, but the front bogie is wired to pick up. The tender still has plastic wheels though.
I am over 50 years old and also need some working on. Nice one.
16:36 Perfection.
Tremendous improvement Bill to that old classic. I always wanted one when I was a boy, but couldn’t afford one. Probably still couldn’t!!
Hornby fit pickups to the front bogie on their relatively recent releases of these models. Great video.
One of the most beautiful models ever. Now you got it running beautiful too. Love this vid.
Yup. And time somebody made a new one but with tender drive!
Did you remove the magnet? I am sure I saw/heard you say this after I had sold mine.
I just found another one and if I put weights into the tender it makes an improvement in negotiating the points?
Lovely work on adding the front boggie pick up Bill
That little loco looks and runs fantastic
Awesome job
Nick Australia
It's wonderful to see a lovely locomotive brought up to date. It looks so good on your layout. The difference it makes by adding extra pickups is fantastic. Inspired by John's Amazing trains, I changed the wheels on the front bogie of my Tri-ang R159, added wire pickups, and it is transformed. Like your Caledonian, no stuttering on the track! I think it is high time that one of the manufacturers made a modern version of this.
Totally agree that Bachmann or Hornby should produce a new one. Bet they'd still mess it up by going for drive from the big wheel though! Ideally a tender drive would be the solution to all of this model's issues.
@@oobill That makes sense.
What a ripper ,, and a great looker to boot..
Cheers from john in Australia
Another outstanding fix Bill. These old Tri-ang models were built to last and this is a fine example, I have a 1960's Tri-ang Britannia from my very first train set (with synchro smoke), sits proudly now on a length of track in a cabinet, not fit for for todays DCC system... All the best Bill and keep these excellent video's coming.
Loved todays video Bill, really pleased you got it running and looking sweet - wasgreat to see all the calli trains at the end too. Cheers Shaun
I've always loved the look of these old Tri-ang Singles. They're the main reason I'm looking at building a layout with at least one dedicated loop of the old steel Super 4 track. Well them, and the Dock Authority diesels, which have notoriously large wheel flanges.
The later Hornby re-release did have pickups on the front pony truck. But it still had the issue of being too front heavy, and the tender being criminally light and with plastic wheels.
Hornby stuck a traction tyre on the main driving wheel, to compensate for the loss of magnedhesion (I think that's what Tri-ang called it), which wasn't great. I've seen the other modern Hornby Singles get crucified in reviews, since they used the same old molding for the most part, and didn't pull or run very well for the price.
Which has me cautious about the re-release of the old Tri-ang Lord of the Isles set coming later in the year.
The only way I can see this loco running well would be to make it tender driven.
@@oobill I agree. The only standard available tender drive I can think of that might fit in the Caledonians, with only the height of the coal load needing to be altered or swapped over altogether to hide it, is from the Hornby Saint Class.
Since it was shorter in height than the ones they used to fit in everything else.
Will look at that. An old Airfix ringfield motor bogie as used on the 2P and 4F would almost fit. Would still need a higher coal load. I'm tempted to get hold of another tender to experiment as it would require a lot of serious butchery to the tender chassis as well as the coal load.
Such a stunning looking Locomotive, Great job as always 00 Bill.
Wow Bill, excellent job. Wish I had seen this before I sold it
good job.
Very good improvement, nice touch to replace that dratted magnet! Suspect a little springing of the front bogie would help. That X05/XT60 motor is a neat design.
Most satisfying. Liked that you split it up. Catch yas later.
I also have four/five of those coaches with different coloured roofs
hi Bill great video. i remember these when they came out as i am 69 years old, great locos.quality back then ! another fab loco was the Davy Crockett R358 and matching coaches.hope the r156 08 is ok.
Interesting video Bill. I have both the Triang and the later Hornby version of this model and yes I feel the later one isn't quite as good although the front bogey does have pick ups on it, it's also a darker shade of blue. I'm in Midlothian so not far from you so would be happy to let you run the later one on your layout if we can organise something for that if you wish. The downside of the Triang one through is the collector plate under the chassis. I had to rebuild mine as the plastic had degraded and it fell apart when I unscrewed it to service the model. There's more chance of seeing a camel on Long Niddry Bents than sourcing a Triang collector plate, I've been looking for one for years!
More chance of getting one 3D printed.
Bit of plasticard would probably do
@@oobill exactly what I used.
Very attractive loco.
Again showing us the tricks of the trade
Great video and great work. A very gorgeous locomotive. I had never heard of reaction magnets before. All the best!!
Hi Bill, just found another CR Single in excellent condition for cheaper than what I sold my earlier one for.
I noticed there are two different numbers, one on the body and one on the pick up plate.
I believe the loco is one of the first issued with the non gloss finish but could it have been rebuilt?
Watch this space for a video
I've wondered if I could use that chassis to motorise the old "Stirling Single" kit.
love watching these vids you do excellent work
Great fix bill, I'll definitely give mine ago with the guitar string pick up.With the magnet on steel triang super 4 track she will pull out 6 full length coaches no probs .
Wonderful, you seem to have the same Caledonian locos I have! Or vice versa. My Caledonian single is a later Hornby version. It has front bogie pick-ups, traction tires and a tiny 3 pole motor. The traction tires make it a slightly better puller, but the loco is still very long-legged. The body is very narrow, so I can't retrofit it with my regular 6 pole motor to make it run slower. Need to think up something else. They say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but where is the fun in that!
Hornby should have made the later one a tender drive. That would have solved all the issues. But it's a very shallow tender so they would have had to design a bespoke motor. But if I were designing a new model I'd go with a tender drive to keep the loco wheels free for pickup only and allow a slower more powerful drive from the tender. No pickup issues, no traction issues and the balance could easily be addressed by weight in the rear of the loco.
Tender drive is a splendid idea for this particular loco! Need to explore that approach. Thank you, Bill!
I have the Tri-ang Dean single that uses the same chassis, I used the same trick in removing the magnetic in that as it does cause far to much drag on the wheels. I’ve not added any extra pickups yet bet it does have Romford wheel fitted to the tender. My Caledonian single is the modern rerelease so has pickups on the front wheels and the type 7 motor plus DCC socket, other than that it’s the same model including plastic tender wheels.
Congratulations on getting this old loco to work well, Bill. I'd like to get an old US prototype model and make it work well again (due to the inspiration you have given me), but I'm not sure the larger flanges would run on my Peco Code 75 track! Cheers from Wisconsin.
Hi Bill.
You certainly like your Caledonian locos and rolling stock don't you. I wonder why that is. 😀
Glad you did a video of its servicing. I have a 4-2-2 Lord of the Isles that is Triang No: R354. I have renamed it 'Crusader' No: 3036 using professionally printed nameplates and cab numbers. I have also fully serviced her but never encountered the problems you came across which is surprising really as I believe the chassis and motor etc. are the same as on your Caledonian. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. 👍
Paul.
Hey up Bill. Another video showing your amazing skills and patience. I got one of these on e-bay and it didn't work at all well. I broke the pick up wire but managed to get another, but somehow I've not been able to get it working again. To go to the extent you have dismantling the loco into tiny bits is too much for me to contemplate. Can you help here ?
Like you, I love the British Caledonian blue trains. I just love your videos and try and soak up all that inspiration that oozes out to me !!! Thanks Bill
I can. But you'll have a long wait!
Hornby had the same idea as you, in that they added pick-ups to the bogie wheels. But then they went the other way by putting traction tyres on the driving wheels. That fixed the traction issue - my newer one pulls fine (on nickel-silver track). But with the traction tyres compromising pick up from the driving wheels, mine still tends to stutter a bit going over points. Yours, like mine, is way over-geared, so it goes much too fast for realism. The maximum speed of the real thing was about 65 mph. To stay within that, I need to always run my Hornby model at 40% or less (using a Morley controller, much the same as yours, I believe).
I have a GWR Dean Single from about 10 years ago and it never runs right stop starts cleaned it you name it, tried everything.
Incidentally the later ones of these suffer with being front heavy too
Absolutely love your channel Bill the best around imo. I always find it such a shame that model railers never have drivers or passengers on their trains tho. Instead all we see is empty ghost rolling stock. A big miss i feel.
I recently bought the Caledonian train pack with the later darker blue version (DCC fitted!) and it pulls its 3 coaches well thanks to the traction tyres The only problem mine has is the tendency for the front end to oscillate side to side - might be too much play on the trailing axle .
I have one of these somewhere , think my Dad has it at his house . I remember it as a flying machine with all the issues described . The comment about the steel track is correct , and I am prity sure that traction magnet sometimes caused the wheels to short out . Runs much better after it has been OOBilled ! Agree that tender and front bogie pickups would help , how about a modern front bogie already equipped with pickups ?
Great video, but what was the magnetizer you used to magnetize the motor?
Scalelink make metal tender wheels that fit the Caledonian loco tender. I have used them on my model and added pickups. All good.
Yes they seem to be the only ones. I take it the ones you used were 16mm?
@@oobill I measured the plastic wheels and bought the same size with the same number of spokes. I cant remember what size they were now as its a few years since I did the conversion. Used DCC concepts pickups. Really enjoy your videos!
@@peterm8969 Did you measure to include the flange or just from the tyre?
@@oobill Hi Bill, I just found the order in my emails from 2016. I ordered the 16mm SW1612W/S wheels.
@@peterm8969 Excellent thanks for that!
That runs sweet, Bill, the later ones are horrible.
I sold mine recently and just as you said, it has trouble at points and was a bit wobbly
Have you tried de-magnetising the traction magnets as an different option to lead?
BTW this old loco is much easier to work on than the newer Hornby version.
It's not very easy to demagnetise a magnet properly. Lead is heavier and therefore preferable in this case to balance the loco better.
Bill, It was pointed out to me on my loco that the rear wheel was not turning under power.
I have placed additional weights into the tender and used some spacers/washers on the coupling. I might need to add additional weight or, did you find another solution?
Hi Bill I've got game garden railway diesel engines they could do with a service as 2 of them just stopped working and I have no idea what's wrong I hear power but they don't move
Time to get the screwdriver out! If you can hear a motor running but it doesn't move, that would suggest a problem with the drive train: a split gear, loose axle, missing teeth,... Take lots of reference pictures before you start and as you go, so you can always retrace your steps. Then observe. I think I can safely say that all of the problems Bill has solved for us could be identified with the naked eye or an electrical continuity test. Good luck!
OK thanks I will see if I can repair them I've just noticed under one of the engines that complet bogey and all wheels are stuck I will get wd40 see if I can lossen it if not I will sell as spare or repair on ebay
What wheels did you use in the tender ?
Running this model loco on Nickle Silver track is not what it was intended for? Originally, the Magnadesion magnets would hold the rear and the drive wheels down to steel track. This will not happen on late model track, making the loco seem front heavy?
R553 has magnesian so on steel track the back part would be fine but on nickel silver track magnesian doesn't work so the front becomes heavy
Bill you said a piece of guitar wire for pick ups, would ordinary copper wire be ok?.
Yes and no. The trouble with wire is it bends easily and with the movement of the wheels it can stop touching the wheel after a while. You really need something that is very springy, can still be bent into shape but retains its shape. Thin plain steel guitar strings are perfect for this and very similar (and better) than the wire Hornby/Tri-ang used on old collector plates.
Hi Bill did you get the Hornby version to have a look at.
Not yet no.
Does it pick up power from the driving wheels, as well as from the back ones?
Yes, but only those two axles. As you saw, the rearmost one was sometimes held off the rails by the weight at the front, so only one axle would be supplying current. As mentioned above, later versions of this and the "Lord of the Isles" (which use the same chassis) have pickups on the bogie wheels, so Triang/Hornby were aware of the failing.
I have six coaches, four with the various shades of white roof and two with the grey roof.
Do you have a different number on the pickup plate from the number on the underside of the body?.
Where did you find the tender wheels?
In regards to the guitar string, did you make it from one piece tied in the middle and pushed through the hole or, did you make it from two pieces?
¡Hola buenas tardes Bill! Another useful service and loco improvement video. The appreciable noise reduction and, pick up enhancement was cleverly thought out. One thing I must query, your CR Pug engine - did I notice, all but very briefly, you have an adapted coal tender, in the form of a separate wagon. I’ve recently restored such a CR pug and, at first, I thought the coal tender had been broken off (as you guess, I am no expert when it comes to exact specifications) although there was no apparent break points. Other than sacks of coal on the footplate (something I doubted) I did wonder how they coaled the fire? Hope you might be able to provide some insight into this? Thanks and un saludo. Gary
I added a tender by converting an old coke wagon. I fitted the wagon with metal wheels and added pickups that are hardwired to the motor in the loco. Solves any stopping on points and crossings. The wires act as couplings and I took the old couplings away and fitted footplates made from card.
@@oobill That’s what I suspected - well the use of the wagon I mean. The additional items are also very sensible and, I will certainly be looking into a similar arrangement for my own loco. If there’s a chance of a few close up shots of your pug, during your next overhauling video or, an actual account of how you made that pug upgrade, that would be fantastic Bill.
Have a watch of these two videos. th-cam.com/video/CePMCLzxQYE/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/bX4cd9ZUoLY/w-d-xo.html
Bill, thanks for all your direction on this. I am now confident enough to attempt an upgrade of my own. I will of course give the appropriate credit to you and, the channel, when I post any material featuring this train. Stay safe and well, cheers! Gary
can I ask what piano wire you use?
It's guitar string not piano wire. I use a 9 or 10 guage steel string.
@@oobill thank you very much. I will have a go on my triang deltic
Also, always slide the magnet out onto a metal "keeper" to maintain it's strength.. Never, just remove the magnet.. I'm afraid that you have a lot to learn about old Tri-ang motors?
I have a remagnetiser.
Yes, I noticed that later in the video.. But most other people do not have one? That's why it's good to slip the magnets onto a keeper in videos.. Many people do not know about the loss of a magnet's strength when it is 'out' of a motor?
Jobs a good un