During the restoration of my 1944 GPW I have had one concern only, and that is the prevention of corrosion. If this leads to a discrepancy in colour then that's unfortunate. We have to remember that as collectors, the preservation is paramount. During WW2 that was the least of their worries as the life expectancy of a jeep in combat areas wasn't much more than that of a junior officer.
Serving in a modern military - There was never a point in my military career when I pre-use inspected a piece of equipment and said - the paint doesn't match. We're not going to use it. Go grab another one.
@secondarycontainment4727 exactly. I'm still serving as a metalsmith in the REME. The approach is the same to repairing a vehicle. The repair has to be good, but it doesn't have to look as it originally did. It has to be functional. If a rotted out top hat section can be replaced with a piece of angle iron welded on in a V shape, then that is what is used.
Thank you for a very helpful & informative video. I intend purchasing a Willys Jeep soon, & I am trying to learn as much as possible about them first. Paul Lucas.
Jeeps were disposable and not expected to last any length of time hence the reason for painting it is less than for rust protection and more for camouflage - that 's why it is olive drab.
The only thing I will say on this is that for jeeps like mine that served with the British army is that the vast majority of their service was post war. Mine was built in November 1944 (if anyone knows how I can get a bit more detail on that I'm all ears) but not discharged until 12th January 1959. Post war they were painted like all B vehicles in a gloss bronze green which looks awful but correct for a UK and BAOR representation.
We painted the first jeep we restored with RFJP lusterluss OD and we have been coating everything (except windshield) with WD40 after we pressure wash it It's nice to be able to be the only jeep at reenactments that will do through the trees and mud and rocks and not really be worried
Love your videos. I've recently bought a Hotchkiss which is going to end up in WW2 spec and livery. In a round about way, this video has clearly defined what patina and authenticity actually are.
A very nice sympathetic restoration, good observations about the amount of matt on the paint finish, the matt finish is also porous, so a dash of satin in the mix does give more protection, I always etch prime before going over with a red oxide primer, this gives added protection, although living in the South of France I do not have to deal with salt on the roads, I found Tony Sudds Olive to be the most accurate colour match (now sold by Universal Jeep), Your is the first Jeep I have seen with the correct Grey engine finish ! A very inspirational video !
Thanks for the comment, this is the Universal jeep paint and it really is fantastic. Wish I had the south of France to drive my jeep around rather than salty and wet England!
Ha Ha ! We have the wet at this time, but no salt, the killer of metal. soon be summer and 45 deg, I have never put my screen up, and the hood is tucked up behind the seat, come on down and enjoy not seeing tarmac for hours .
Greendot319: Ha Ha ! I had more than my share of wet and cold while riding my Vincent when I lived in UK, for a real experience try driving with the screen down in 45 deg heat, 20 mile is about all I can manage, one ends up like a crisp, the worst thing I find with driving in damp conditions is that the fine mist gets everywhere in the vehicle and takes ages to dry out, but then the Jeep was called "the pneumonia wagon". Keep dry !
I like your Jeep! I am a re enactor from South Africa and have a Willis that I have modified to replicate those used in Chad by the FFL till the 80's. It is in desert sand and looks well used..just for effect! A "rivit counter" would pick holes in this vehicle..but authenticity to the last nut wasnt my goal. It depicts the SPIRIT of that style well. Personally jeeps are much more appealing when they have that worn, well used (even slightly dented) look. The "brand new" finish of course didnt last long once soldiers got their grubby paws on them. In reality...most jeeps in combat zones never lasted long enough for rust actually to be a problem too!
An absolutely fan fantastic video. I'm rebuilding my 42 MB and all the video gives me some knowledge here and there about things like the horn, I was just sanding and wondering what that bracket was and low and behold it's for the horn. Same for the grease gun and fuel filter. Thanks my friend! Mail me and I'll send some pictures of mine as I go along. Al
When I was building my jeep, I wanted authentic ww2 od green paint.. that sent me down a rabbit hole and instead of going to a auto paint supplier for a close match, I went to a supplier of restoration quality finishes. The minimum amount of paint I could buy was 2 gallons.. and they recommended xyolene are a reducer but also stated that it can be thinned with gasoline just like they did in the field during the war. I used xylene and added a oil based hardener to it, it made touch ups much easier if I had to go back and repaint a section. Back then, they would also spray over wiring and anything already assembled, so back of headlights and steering parts..
Ive done a 42 MB and we used RFJP We take it off roading and go mudding (not the extremes, but a good run for the jeeps) We pressure wash it down and cover it in WD40 and thats more than enough for us as far as paint protection
Hi green dot I have a 1943 Ford GPW matching engine and chassis numbers, has a history a US MILITARY POLICE JEEP US MARINES stationed in Townsville Queensland Australia base section 3 stockade has been fully restored and has won 6 trophy’s in the 3 years I have owned it great site green dot regards Bill Hadden Australia
this is a pretty cool video and it's nice to see an old willys Jeep being restored and looking like they did back during world war I only question is doesn't anybody paint these things in a Navy scheme anymore every single one I see is always painted in the army guard Marine green what about those guys who served in the Navy should maybe sitting there and having some of these done in the Navy scheme for them?
Hello Greendot, I have a late GPW 6-7-45 all matching and never been restored with an old black paint on the engine. . Have you ever heard or see this on late models ? Thx for all your great videos!
ive got a 42 gpw, and i found on the top bow anchors/swivel original green, and it had a lustre also if you look inside differential/ places its protected, youll find original paint
You also have to bear in mind. That often the British and Commonwealth, ie - Canadian, Australian, Indian, New Zealand and South African jeeps differed in detail and colour schemes to their US counterparts. Some of those changes were carried out in the field. While others were modified in the countries themselves, to suit particular theatre requirements. And it was not uncommon for jeep parts to be shipped in crates as opposed to the flat packs mentioned. Then assembled and finished by local vehicle factories, military engineering depots, or civilian engineering cos. As well, Airforce and Naval jeeps had detail differences and very often their own service colour schemes. This applied to the US forces. As well as to the separate, Army Navy Airforce, British and Commonwealth forces. Then you also have the jeeps that were supplied to the Soviet and free French forces.
once in a unit, not so much front lines, there will be inspections looking for a few things - serviceability "does it work?" and NO rust, NO dirt. depends upon how hard the NCO wants to be, or motor pool NCO, but dirt washed off, and rust "removed" by being painted over. Even with my restored GPW, I try to look good, and avoid overspray, but it is there. If you have ever been 19 in the military, you'll know this mentality!
Well done mr..One correction if I may the reflector be it Arrow or Concorran Brown at right should be amber not red.Jeep is a marvel of engineering till today a wonder in this modern world of tinselled cosmetical addition.The lighting of red is the driver side as it is LHDrive.Amber on the right tells the traffic is safer.Thanks.
The side-facing red reflectors on the rear fenders seem almost anachronistic - US Federal safety standards didn't make them a requirement for all cars until the 1968 model year - but the military must've had some purpose for them.
See the vac tube for the wipers is that originally the way it went into the engine bay? I've seen some willys going through thr actual wing into a grommet?
Some jeeps not fitted with vac wipers from the factory did not have a cut out hole for the wiper tube so it just went under the hood. Later a vacuum line hole was fitted in the factory for the wipers although a jeep could have the hole and not be fitted with vac wipers!
If the modern All Terrain Vehicles were built for 4 people rather than just one, they'd be designed more like the Original Jeeps that could be adapted to carry machine guns, tow cargo trailers, and need only a 4 cylinder engine of no great sophistication. At sea America built the Liberty Ships with much the same mindset. Of course America's younger generations have No Clue about such things, and so they seek the air conditioned, butt easy designed vehicles that are built by robots and not humans.
As a vehicle painter I can tell you, you can't buy good ol'red oxide lead primer any more as far as I know? The stuff to use nowadays is epoxy primer. I use Lechler which can be bought in various RAL colours. One of which will be a close match to red oxide. The beauty of epoxy is it sticks to bare metal like shit to a army blanket and is totally impervious to water and most other things and is as hard as nails. You can use it wet on wet or let it totally harden and flat it off and paint over it with colour.
Hi there. Am Jeep addict and my nbr 6 Jeep is a recently acquired 1958 M38A1. It was used to drive Highly graded Swiss Army staff around. Our Swiss Army stopped using Jeep in 1971. My Jeep turns almost perfectly and the paint looks.... perfect to me..... not as good to many people... I keep it as is....I have a thousand questions....sorry...😊
The paint on the Jeep is a real mix of Olive , ral 6011 and 6013.... I would love to keep it in her... juices... paints, rust, grease marks..... it looks beautiful and everyone tell me it does. Do you have an idea on how to keep it this way and still fix the rust and protect the structure?
Hello Greendot I have a early 43 GPW , still in process of collecting parts for it. Interested in your words on painting - did you etch prime to bare metal or go with red oxide ? I think wartime paint was oil based and also contained lead (although I dont know the original formulation) . A friend of mine has an MB he painted 45 years ago and its still good - it dosnt get much use though. His experience was to spray WD40 into all seams then use oil based paint which (he says) mingles with the WD40 and hardens off. He also applied a gloss layer which he left until tacky and then over coated with drab which he reckons seals the surface as plain OD is porous (his words). Lastly who was the paint supplier for yours and what was the paint number - if you dont mind me asking .
Hi, this tub was media blasted back to bare metal and then sprayed with red oxide primer, some items like the fenders were also zinc sprayed too for added protection. i'm not sure about spraying WD40 in the seams for most paints as I imagine any non oil based paint would react badly with it and you wouldn't get good paint adhesion. What I would recommend is that if is getting hold of some ACF50 (which is an aircraft anti-corrosion treatment), which although very pricey is excellent for protecting all your seams and areas where water might collect once you have sprayed the jeep and the paint is cured. When I look at my jeep in the areas where the ACF50 is you can see the water just beads and rolls off so it is doing a good job. Fortunately for us in the UK, but unluckily for other places in the world, the paint we can get hold of from UK suppliers like Universal jeep supplies appears to be a very good enamel, this enamel is what I used on my jeep but it only comes in plain unmarked tins so I have no idea who makes it or exactly what it is which is no help at all when trying to help other people with painting their jeeps so please accept my apologies. I will try and find some more info about it for you
Hi, Thanks for the message. The jeep isn't completed yet, original parts for the correct price take a long time to collect and so some bits are missing like the rings, bumperettes and shovel bracket. They'll be fitted once I find and buy them!
Dave Weeks The canvas is from Jim Clark at Allied Canvas. It's recommended by me, he's a very nice guy, service is good and the canvas is excellent. Glad you like the video, I'll keep on producing more
I see that you have a three spoke metal steering wheel. Possibly strange question, does yours have a slight wobble from the point at which the spokes fit into the center hub. I have just bought one (repro) and mine has movement. Probably down to a cheap repro or the fact there is alot of sress at that point and the old originals suffered in the same way.
Dave Weeks no it doesn't it is solid. I would have yours looked at before driving it more just in case. I imagine a touch of weld would re-secure the spokes to the boss.
Regarding the primer, you mention RED OXIDE. Is that primer red iron oxide or RED LEAD? I believe red lead was used because of its anti-corrosion properties. Can you set me straight?
Hi there, really enjoyed your vids, is this paint by the famous Tony Sudds?. I had the matt version initially and i have now changed ovet to the mix version which has a small amount of glossing agent added. Handy for keeping clean but it does gather smudges etc but not as much as the full matt. Cheers. Will
Hi Will, this is the Tony Sudds paint and is a mix of 50/50 matt and mix. The mat, as you found, is too matt and not accurate for WW2 paint but the mix on its own or a 50/50 is very good and I think a really good match for original paint. Glad you liked the videos!
Hi Greendot, many thanks for the reply, a few years ago when i began my resto, i used qd hi build primer, with the matt od, within weeks, out in the elements, a lot of my work had begun to corode, due to the porous nature of the matt od and primer. Since then, i used the same primer, and additonally an agriculturcal satin finish red oxide, by johnstones, its great stuff, pretty much impermiable to rust with it on, the mix od is on top of that, i learnt pretty quick and glad i didnt have to find out the hard way after my resto was done, i like the idea of that anti corroaive oil spray, i will dedinately use that, im at the stage of dropping my engine in now, then off to work on the tub. I also advised two friends today, one has an mb and another a gpw, about the acr oil you mentioned, they seem reallt interested. Cheers. Will
Greendot 319, you know I kidd you a lot and I am not trying to be a troll but this is something that I wake up at night about in a cold sweat as to whether or not my Jeep is paint is all wrong, this and did I trim my toe nails yesterday or the day before? But thanks for your time to make the video!
I'm an armour modeller I'd rather see the dirt n grime than a show ready jeep aswell! Wouldn't look right make you look like a coward running away keeping your jeep nice n clean lol but yeah totally agree I'm actually away to add that satin grip marks on my 1.16 scale same as yours whare you been grabbing it! Tbh this model is a scale replica of yours it your jeep I've been working from! Just needing to find a yellow gas detection for the hood/bonnet
What color code do I look for when looking for the engine and transmission paint? Can you point me to a good source either in the US or that ships here?
Hlo..i m from india..living in punjab state.. I have one ford willys (modal 1964). I want new paint on my willys. So plz tell me..orignal ford willys color name..
I only wish that a Jeep exactly like these original Willys brand Jeeps were sold New. I would love a Jeep like this not built for the Massive Buttocks and Mega-GULP Cups filled with sugar laden drinks that are so good at advancing the Diabetes in the American Population. Simplicity and function were the original design goals of those who made these excellent vehicles into legends.
Its ok wenn you like your Jeep to be perfect. This car how ever was not build to be perfect and all they worried about was, could he do the job for a limited time. So your Jeep and all the other collectors items, missing the point of this car.
Henny Goossens Couldnt agree with you more. However I appreciate the technical detail this fellas preserving. This appears to be a bench mark reference restoration. The only way to gain the knowledge presented here is to be down in the trenches restoring these rigs or owning original survivor un restored/un molested examples. Good luck finding the later. Nice original barn find survivor FlatFender Willys are very very rare.
Some day you have to go to Colombia, They drive, work and enjoy their Willy's jeeps, It[s amazing what they do with these cars as daily drivers and workinghorses.
The life span of these Jeeps were not expected to be very long. So perfect paint work was not expected, just a full coverage of drab paint. You guys have mimicked pre-war use Jeeps. Just off the ship paint scheme.
This is probably the most in-depth restoration explanation I've seen for the MB/GPW. Thank you! Wright Flyer, USAF (1968-1972).
During the restoration of my 1944 GPW I have had one concern only, and that is the prevention of corrosion. If this leads to a discrepancy in colour then that's unfortunate. We have to remember that as collectors, the preservation is paramount. During WW2 that was the least of their worries as the life expectancy of a jeep in combat areas wasn't much more than that of a junior officer.
Also, you can lay that paint down heavy and thick and it will still be correct
i know it's kind of randomly asking but does anybody know of a good site to watch newly released tv shows online ?
Serving in a modern military - There was never a point in my military career when I pre-use inspected a piece of equipment and said - the paint doesn't match. We're not going to use it. Go grab another one.
@secondarycontainment4727 exactly. I'm still serving as a metalsmith in the REME. The approach is the same to repairing a vehicle. The repair has to be good, but it doesn't have to look as it originally did. It has to be functional. If a rotted out top hat section can be replaced with a piece of angle iron welded on in a V shape, then that is what is used.
Nice to see that you have gone for originality.
Thank you
You have an amazing sense of attention to detail! I don’t feel alone in that now!! Cheers!
ha ha ta!
Thank you for a very helpful & informative video. I intend purchasing a Willys Jeep soon, & I am trying to learn as much as possible about them first. Paul Lucas.
Jeeps were disposable and not expected to last any length of time hence the reason for painting it is less than for rust protection and more for camouflage - that 's why it is olive drab.
Excellent information and restroation. Thank you for sharing.
No Problem, glad you enjoyed it, Matt
Flat paint is the only way to go on these old jeeps. Gloss just looks wrong
The only thing I will say on this is that for jeeps like mine that served with the British army is that the vast majority of their service was post war. Mine was built in November 1944 (if anyone knows how I can get a bit more detail on that I'm all ears) but not discharged until 12th January 1959. Post war they were painted like all B vehicles in a gloss bronze green which looks awful but correct for a UK and BAOR representation.
We painted the first jeep we restored with RFJP lusterluss OD and we have been coating everything (except windshield) with WD40 after we pressure wash it
It's nice to be able to be the only jeep at reenactments that will do through the trees and mud and rocks and not really be worried
Love your videos. I've recently bought a Hotchkiss which is going to end up in WW2 spec and livery. In a round about way, this video has clearly defined what patina and authenticity actually are.
Perfect , Just found your channel and love it already! im saving cash for a Ford or Willys at the moment, Very helpful channel! Thanks
I love the details you gone threw
A very nice sympathetic restoration, good observations about the amount of matt on the paint finish, the matt finish is also porous, so a dash of satin in the mix does give more protection, I always etch prime before going over with a red oxide primer, this gives added protection, although living in the South of France I do not have to deal with salt on the roads, I found Tony Sudds Olive to be the most accurate colour match (now sold by Universal Jeep), Your is the first Jeep I have seen with the correct Grey engine finish ! A very inspirational video !
Thanks for the comment, this is the Universal jeep paint and it really is fantastic. Wish I had the south of France to drive my jeep around rather than salty and wet England!
Ha Ha ! We have the wet at this time, but no salt, the killer of metal. soon be summer and 45 deg, I have never put my screen up, and the hood is tucked up behind the seat, come on down and enjoy not seeing tarmac for hours .
Englishman French you're missing the real jeep experience of you're not getting wet and cold in a jeep!
Greendot319: Ha Ha ! I had more than my share of wet and cold while riding my Vincent when I lived in UK, for a real experience try driving with the screen down in 45 deg heat, 20 mile is about all I can manage, one ends up like a crisp, the worst thing I find with driving in damp conditions is that the fine mist gets everywhere in the vehicle and takes ages to dry out, but then the Jeep was called "the pneumonia wagon". Keep dry !
Very nice. Hailing from Colombia, thank you.
Great information, well done
Re Matt paint and oil. My dad had a DiamondT 980 RE. Palestine 45 on, he used to Polish his lorry with engine or diesel oil to make it shine....
I like your Jeep! I am a re enactor from South Africa and have a Willis that I have modified to replicate those used in Chad by the FFL till the 80's. It is in desert sand and looks well used..just for effect! A "rivit counter" would pick holes in this vehicle..but authenticity to the last nut wasnt my goal. It depicts the SPIRIT of that style well. Personally jeeps are much more appealing when they have that worn, well used (even slightly dented) look. The "brand new" finish of course didnt last long once soldiers got their grubby paws on them. In reality...most jeeps in combat zones never lasted long enough for rust actually to be a problem too!
To be correct your Jeep should be the m2011'hotchkiss...that's what they were using then...
Great looking jeep.
Thanks a lot, she was a good one
Thanks for the video 👍🏻 very interesting
An absolutely fan fantastic video. I'm rebuilding my 42 MB and all the video gives me some knowledge here and there about things like the horn, I was just sanding and wondering what that bracket was and low and behold it's for the horn. Same for the grease gun and fuel filter. Thanks my friend! Mail me and I'll send some pictures of mine as I go along.
Al
When I was building my jeep, I wanted authentic ww2 od green paint.. that sent me down a rabbit hole and instead of going to a auto paint supplier for a close match, I went to a supplier of restoration quality finishes. The minimum amount of paint I could buy was 2 gallons.. and they recommended xyolene are a reducer but also stated that it can be thinned with gasoline just like they did in the field during the war. I used xylene and added a oil based hardener to it, it made touch ups much easier if I had to go back and repaint a section.
Back then, they would also spray over wiring and anything already assembled, so back of headlights and steering parts..
Ive done a 42 MB and we used RFJP
We take it off roading and go mudding (not the extremes, but a good run for the jeeps)
We pressure wash it down and cover it in WD40 and thats more than enough for us as far as paint protection
Nice job. Enjoyed the video.
Great job Mate!
Thanks, glad you like it
Your Jeep is beautiful 😍
Flat or Satin which I haven’t seen seems appropriate. After careful studying I agree FLAT is the way to go.
Hi green dot I have a 1943 Ford GPW matching engine and chassis numbers, has a history a US MILITARY POLICE JEEP US MARINES stationed in Townsville Queensland Australia base section 3 stockade has been fully restored and has won 6 trophy’s in the 3 years I have owned it great site green dot regards Bill Hadden Australia
Awesome! I wish I had one.
this is a pretty cool video and it's nice to see an old willys Jeep being restored and looking like they did back during world war I only question is doesn't anybody paint these things in a Navy scheme anymore every single one I see is always painted in the army guard Marine green what about those guys who served in the Navy should maybe sitting there and having some of these done in the Navy scheme for them?
Hello Greendot, I have a late GPW 6-7-45 all matching and never been restored with an old black paint on the engine. . Have you ever heard or see this on late models ? Thx for all your great videos!
Mines got a gloss finish ,done by previous owner and it's grown on me easy to clean I know it's not correct but I like it
ive got a 42 gpw, and i found on the top bow anchors/swivel original green, and it had a lustre
also if you look inside differential/ places its protected, youll find original paint
You also have to bear in mind. That often the British and Commonwealth, ie - Canadian, Australian, Indian, New Zealand and South African jeeps differed in detail and colour schemes to their US counterparts. Some of those changes were carried out in the field. While others were modified in the countries themselves, to suit particular theatre requirements. And it was not uncommon for jeep parts to be shipped in crates as opposed to the flat packs mentioned. Then assembled and finished by local vehicle factories, military engineering depots, or civilian engineering cos. As well, Airforce and Naval jeeps had detail differences and very often their own service colour schemes. This applied to the US forces. As well as to the separate, Army Navy Airforce, British and Commonwealth forces. Then you also have the jeeps that were supplied to the Soviet and free French forces.
Good review, thank you!
once in a unit, not so much front lines, there will be inspections looking for a few things - serviceability "does it work?" and NO rust, NO dirt. depends upon how hard the NCO wants to be, or motor pool NCO, but dirt washed off, and rust "removed" by being painted over. Even with my restored GPW, I try to look good, and avoid overspray, but it is there. If you have ever been 19 in the military, you'll know this mentality!
Your Jeep is the balls sir!!!!
Thanks, glad you like it
Well done mr..One correction if I may the reflector be it Arrow or Concorran Brown at right should be amber not red.Jeep is a marvel of engineering till today a wonder in this modern world of tinselled cosmetical addition.The lighting of red is the driver side as it is LHDrive.Amber on the right tells the traffic is safer.Thanks.
Thank you for the comment, on WW2 jeep all reflectors are red, no amber ones ;)
The side-facing red reflectors on the rear fenders seem almost anachronistic - US Federal safety standards didn't make them a requirement for all cars until the 1968 model year - but the military must've had some purpose for them.
See the vac tube for the wipers is that originally the way it went into the engine bay? I've seen some willys going through thr actual wing into a grommet?
Some jeeps not fitted with vac wipers from the factory did not have a cut out hole for the wiper tube so it just went under the hood. Later a vacuum line hole was fitted in the factory for the wipers although a jeep could have the hole and not be fitted with vac wipers!
If the modern All Terrain Vehicles were built for 4 people rather than just one, they'd be designed more like the Original Jeeps that could be adapted to carry machine guns, tow cargo trailers, and need only a 4 cylinder engine of no great sophistication. At sea America built the Liberty Ships with much the same mindset. Of course America's younger generations have No Clue about such things, and so they seek the air conditioned, butt easy designed vehicles that are built by robots and not humans.
As a vehicle painter I can tell you, you can't buy good ol'red oxide lead primer any more as far as I know? The stuff to use nowadays is epoxy primer. I use Lechler which can be bought in various RAL colours. One of which will be a close match to red oxide. The beauty of epoxy is it sticks to bare metal like shit to a army blanket and is totally impervious to water and most other things and is as hard as nails. You can use it wet on wet or let it totally harden and flat it off and paint over it with colour.
Well done!!
Happy new year 👍
Hi there. Am Jeep addict and my nbr 6 Jeep is a recently acquired 1958 M38A1. It was used to drive Highly graded Swiss Army staff around. Our Swiss Army stopped using Jeep in 1971. My Jeep turns almost perfectly and the paint looks.... perfect to me..... not as good to many people... I keep it as is....I have a thousand questions....sorry...😊
The paint on the Jeep is a real mix of Olive , ral 6011 and 6013.... I would love to keep it in her... juices... paints, rust, grease marks..... it looks beautiful and everyone tell me it does. Do you have an idea on how to keep it this way and still fix the rust and protect the structure?
Hello Greendot I have a early 43 GPW , still in process of collecting parts for it. Interested in your words on painting - did you etch prime to bare metal or go with red oxide ? I think wartime paint was oil based and also contained lead (although I dont know the original formulation) . A friend of mine has an MB he painted 45 years ago and its still good - it dosnt get much use though. His experience was to spray WD40 into all seams then use oil based paint which (he says) mingles with the WD40 and hardens off. He also applied a gloss layer which he left until tacky and then over coated with drab which he reckons seals the surface as plain OD is porous (his words). Lastly who was the paint supplier for yours and what was the paint number - if you dont mind me asking .
Hi, this tub was media blasted back to bare metal and then sprayed with red oxide primer, some items like the fenders were also zinc sprayed too for added protection. i'm not sure about spraying WD40 in the seams for most paints as I imagine any non oil based paint would react badly with it and you wouldn't get good paint adhesion. What I would recommend is that if is getting hold of some ACF50 (which is an aircraft anti-corrosion treatment), which although very pricey is excellent for protecting all your seams and areas where water might collect once you have sprayed the jeep and the paint is cured. When I look at my jeep in the areas where the ACF50 is you can see the water just beads and rolls off so it is doing a good job. Fortunately for us in the UK, but unluckily for other places in the world, the paint we can get hold of from UK suppliers like Universal jeep supplies appears to be a very good enamel, this enamel is what I used on my jeep but it only comes in plain unmarked tins so I have no idea who makes it or exactly what it is which is no help at all when trying to help other people with painting their jeeps so please accept my apologies. I will try and find some more info about it for you
Ah, if the paint was from UJS it is probably Matt 1 - which is from Jeepest .
conrod7 that's it, it's good paint but you need to do a mix of at least 50% mix to mat to get the right finish. 100% mat is too mat
Got it . Your jeep looks great by the way.
Thanks, more videos on the way
What are the general prices of your different jeeps, and where did you purchase?
Nice Jeep's
Very well done Sir. Nice jeep with some details in the right places.
I noticed the missing eyebolts near the hook. Deliberate ?
Hi, Thanks for the message. The jeep isn't completed yet, original parts for the correct price take a long time to collect and so some bits are missing like the rings, bumperettes and shovel bracket. They'll be fitted once I find and buy them!
Great looking Jeep man in take really good care of it it seems like.
Boy, that is a beautiful jeep…
She wasn't a bad one, current one is better ;)
Nice one, better looking than those shows trailer queens. Where did u find it? Did u make a lot of work on the tub?
Excellent video really well done, what make of Canvas is fitted to your jeep?
Dave Weeks The canvas is from Jim Clark at Allied Canvas. It's recommended by me, he's a very nice guy, service is good and the canvas is excellent. Glad you like the video, I'll keep on producing more
I see that you have a three spoke metal steering wheel. Possibly strange question, does yours have a slight wobble from the point at which the spokes fit into the center hub. I have just bought one (repro) and mine has movement. Probably down to a cheap repro or the fact there is alot of sress at that point and the old originals suffered in the same way.
Dave Weeks no it doesn't it is solid. I would have yours looked at before driving it more just in case. I imagine a touch of weld would re-secure the spokes to the boss.
Yes i'm returning it, if looks as if it was never welded in the first place.
Regarding the primer, you mention RED OXIDE. Is that primer red iron oxide or RED LEAD? I believe red lead was used because of its anti-corrosion properties. Can you set me straight?
Red lead oxide ;)
Hi, could you please give me a link to this OD paint? It looks so good!
Dallas Autos do a good supply of paint including primer and OD manufactured to original specs.
Hi there, really enjoyed your vids, is this paint by the famous Tony Sudds?. I had the matt version initially and i have now changed ovet to the mix version which has a small amount of glossing agent added. Handy for keeping clean but it does gather smudges etc but not as much as the full matt. Cheers. Will
Hi Will, this is the Tony Sudds paint and is a mix of 50/50 matt and mix. The mat, as you found, is too matt and not accurate for WW2 paint but the mix on its own or a 50/50 is very good and I think a really good match for original paint. Glad you liked the videos!
Hi Greendot, many thanks for the reply, a few years ago when i began my resto, i used qd hi build primer, with the matt od, within weeks, out in the elements, a lot of my work had begun to corode, due to the porous nature of the matt od and primer. Since then, i used the same primer, and additonally an agriculturcal satin finish red oxide, by johnstones, its great stuff, pretty much impermiable to rust with it on, the mix od is on top of that, i learnt pretty quick and glad i didnt have to find out the hard way after my resto was done, i like the idea of that anti corroaive oil spray, i will dedinately use that, im at the stage of dropping my engine in now, then off to work on the tub. I also advised two friends today, one has an mb and another a gpw, about the acr oil you mentioned, they seem reallt interested. Cheers. Will
Greendot 319, you know I kidd you a lot and I am not trying to be a troll but this is something that I wake up at night about in a cold sweat as to whether or not my Jeep is paint is all wrong, this and did I trim my toe nails yesterday or the day before? But thanks for your time to make the video!
Was the stencils on the top rear about speed and left hand drive original or added for modern drivers?
No, Wartime feature for ETO jeeps
I'm an armour modeller I'd rather see the dirt n grime than a show ready jeep aswell! Wouldn't look right make you look like a coward running away keeping your jeep nice n clean lol but yeah totally agree I'm actually away to add that satin grip marks on my 1.16 scale same as yours whare you been grabbing it! Tbh this model is a scale replica of yours it your jeep I've been working from! Just needing to find a yellow gas detection for the hood/bonnet
I seen original seat covers painted
Looks good to me
Whats the colour code of the original fuel tank colour?
Olive drab
@@Greendot319 i mean the fuel jerry can
What color code do I look for when looking for the engine and transmission paint? Can you point me to a good source either in the US or that ships here?
Hi, no code for it sadly shop.universaljeepsupplies.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=78
cud u please tell me the specific name of the GREEN used on ur Willy's?
Hi, Unfortunately there is no specific name for it! You can buy it from Universal jeep supplies in the UK, thanks Matt
Greendot 319 thnx but I meant the shade of green
It’s US light olive.
I like it.
Hlo..i m from india..living in punjab state.. I have one ford willys (modal 1964). I want new paint on my willys. So plz tell me..orignal ford willys color name..
Since this would be a 'high bonnet' model used by the Indian Army it would be army OG (olive green) in drab finish to be original.
Who is doing the shooting in the background?
Local clay pigeon club ;)
Whats the colour code of that colour pls?
No colour code, paint from universal jeep supplies in the UK
Hello, super
I only wish that a Jeep exactly like these original Willys brand Jeeps were sold New. I would love a Jeep like this not built for the Massive Buttocks and Mega-GULP Cups filled with sugar laden drinks that are so good at advancing the Diabetes in the American Population. Simplicity and function were the original design goals of those who made these excellent vehicles into legends.
See the mahindra maxor - it's close - more of a cj5 though
jolie !
Merci!
je vous en prie , votre jeep est vraiment parfaite . J'ai aussi une Ford très belle . Et MERCI à l'Angleterre pour tout ce qu'elle a fait en 40/45
Merci bien!
Sweeeet!
Its ok wenn you like your Jeep to be perfect. This car how ever was not build to be perfect and all they worried about was, could he do the job for a limited time. So your Jeep and all the other collectors items, missing the point of this car.
Henny Goossens
Couldnt agree with you more. However I appreciate the technical detail this fellas preserving. This appears to be a bench mark reference restoration. The only way to gain the knowledge presented here is to be down in the trenches restoring these rigs or owning original survivor un restored/un molested examples.
Good luck finding the later. Nice original barn find survivor FlatFender Willys are very very rare.
Some day you have to go to Colombia, They drive, work and enjoy their Willy's jeeps, It[s amazing what they do with these cars as daily drivers and workinghorses.
The life span of these Jeeps were not expected to be very long. So perfect paint work was not expected, just a full coverage of drab paint. You guys have mimicked pre-war use Jeeps. Just off the ship paint scheme.
yesm they were only expected to last 2 years, also why seals leak so much, not machined down to exact standards
Hi when the jeeps were packed in transit crates were they assembled first then taken apart
Sargento Willys Jeep never die Sincé 1941 he in a real american HERO GI JOE & me too 🤗🤗🤗🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸😃😃😃😃😀😀😀🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🤩🤩🤩🤩😃😃😃😃😃🖐️🖐️🖐️🖐️🖐️😊😊😊
Correction-jeep police
Most of WW2 green they offer is wrong
paint code ?
No Code unfortunately!
Greendot 319 which paint is this ?
Really. They were fucking green and mud
Get a life keep police
Nice Jeep's